Hi All,
I can't seem to find a projects section so i am going to start this here. Mods, please feel free to move it if deemed to be in the wrong place.
OK, so i have a 2003 FL 2, in Black with just gone 100.000 on the clock. The car pulls very well, and doesn't lose too much oil.
I also have a 2000 Nissan 200sx S14a, this is where the problem begins. Coming out of the 2 and driving the 200 they are worlds apart in terms of power delivery. Although i like the 2, and the way it screams its arse off, the 200 just has that low down torque and power delivery is effortless.
The 200 has had an upgraded turbo, upgraded injectors, chip fitted and an electronic boost controller upgrade. To name but a few mods.
The relevance of the above means, i have a T28 turbo, i have an emanage blue, i have a set of 380cc injectors (which before removal made 276.5BHP) I also have an EVC 4 in the Nissan soon to be replaced by a EVC 5, so Guess i have a EVC 4 going spare too!
So with the above in mind all i need is a turbo manifold (already buying one from Matt), an intercooler, oil feed and oil drain, and some pipes for plumbing it all up! Sounds easy doesn't it :p
So a few questions then, intercooler, where to fit it? I was thinking to have a side mount with ducting from the right hand side vent.
Oil feed and drain, are these pre-drilled or do i need to drill and tap for the feed and then make a return in the sump?
Can i go from the turbo into my TTE exhaust system, or is it too restrictive?
I am only planning to run about 8psi, that should get me 200bhp right?
Also, what clutch is best for the job?
I am not going to do it straight away as i still have some bits to gather, and some jobs taking presidence, such as the subframe replacement and the rear wheel bearing (i think), as well as the drivers side seat belt needing to be replaced (all MOT items).
I would appreciate pics of you turbo installs if you have them! Look forward to your feedback. s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Replace subframe - DONE
Replace front brakes - DONE
Fit Tein S springs - DONE
Replace/refurb wheels
Wheel alignment
Do something with the front bumper I have not yet picked up s:o :o s:o fit splitter and SMD LED fogs (with halo)
Take out headlights, de-cloud, blacken, fit LED sides and HID mains
Paint and fit JDL skirts
Get Dings taken out (next wknd s:D :D s:D ) - DONE
Fit gear selector bushes (bearing Type) DONE
Change Oil and Filters DONE
Smash out CATS DONE the first week i bought the car s:) :) s:)
I will add stuff to the list as i remember or do it, and mark it off. Whilst doing all that i will be collecting parts for the turbo build.
So far I have secured a oil drain. And have all the bits as listed at the start.
I need to get a TTE style intercooler. Or I am going to look at fitting a sidemount near one of the side ducts.
In the reference section there is a pe turbo install guide, I used that to get the measurements for drilling the sump to fit the oil return. I got the oil feed off a filter sandwich plate and it gave me a few spare outlets for oil pressure and temp gauges, which I would recommend fitting as the oil pressure is quite high until it warms up. Don't want to blow your oil seals on the turbo.
I got the stage 2 clutch from whifbitz as it was not a paddle but takes 280lb torque I think. And it was cheaper than most others. More or less feels like a standard clutch in traffic.
I've gone from turbo to cobra and it seems ok, but I think I will build a new system from scratch over winter.
I had the exedy clutch and I thought it was fantastic, no slip at all on 220bhp, but was heavier than standard clutch.
I spoke with Mattperformance regarding Cobra and TTE exhaust on a turbo, and he highly advised against it. I took his advise as he knows far more than me, but up to you ofcause.
Quote from: "Jrichards20"I had the exedy clutch and I thought it was fantastic, no slip at all on 220bhp, but was heavier than standard clutch.
I spoke with Mattperformance regarding Cobra and TTE exhaust on a turbo, and he highly advised against it. I took his advise as he knows far more than me, but up to you ofcause.
I thought the same to be honest, I'm planning a new one. Fancied a straight through to quad pipes sticking out the grille either side of the numberplate but don't know if it will be too loud.
Quote from: "Leethesparky"In the reference section there is a pe turbo install guide, I used that to get the measurements for drilling the sump to fit the oil return. I got the oil feed off a filter sandwich plate and it gave me a few spare outlets for oil pressure and temp gauges, which I would recommend fitting as the oil pressure is quite high until it warms up. Don't want to blow your oil seals on the turbo.
I got the stage 2 clutch from whifbitz as it was not a paddle but takes 280lb torque I think. And it was cheaper than most others. More or less feels like a standard clutch in traffic.
I've gone from turbo to cobra and it seems ok, but I think I will build a new system from scratch over winter.
Hi Lee, thanks for the info, how much power you running and with what turbo/PSI?
How much was the clutch?
What bore size are the pipes on the Cobra? 2.5 inch?
Quote from: "Jrichards20"I had the exedy clutch and I thought it was fantastic, no slip at all on 220bhp, but was heavier than standard clutch.
I spoke with Mattperformance regarding Cobra and TTE exhaust on a turbo, and he highly advised against it. I took his advise as he knows far more than me, but up to you ofcause.
I have an Exedy organic in the 200, and you are 100% spot on, it works a dream and feels like a road car would.
Did Matt say what the reason was behind not running a cobra? is it restrictive? I mean i am running a 3 inch, turbo back (including elbow) on the 200 and its great! But i would have thought that with the 2, the exhaust system is not very long, and considering it looks to be about 2.5" only has one can, and you are replacing the precats for a turbo leaving only one cat, you should be fine. The only restriction i can foresee is that the silencer is quite big, so maybe something in there.
Quote from: "Leethesparky"Quote from: "Jrichards20"I had the exedy clutch and I thought it was fantastic, no slip at all on 220bhp, but was heavier than standard clutch.
I spoke with Mattperformance regarding Cobra and TTE exhaust on a turbo, and he highly advised against it. I took his advise as he knows far more than me, but up to you ofcause.
I thought the same to be honest, I'm planning a new one. Fancied a straight through to quad pipes sticking out the grille either side of the numberplate but don't know if it will be too loud.
Are you thinking this purely for the purpose of Aesthetics, or is it actually restrictive?
Also, do i need to fit a high pressure fuel pump? Walbro or like? At what sort of mileage does the stock one die?
The cobra is more restrictive than others, but all depends what your looking for. My tte worked fine at 235bhp but was showing signs of restriction according to the mapper.
You would be fine with cobra or tte up to that power range.
With the stuff you already have you should see an easy 200-230bhp
Mine ran 235bhp @ 9.5psi with uprated injectors and standard fuel pump. The 2 takes to running a turbo pretty well, you will need to update the clutch with power over 200bhp / 200 Ib ft - mine is a helix which has a nice pedal feel and can handle more than capable. Some people run the trd clutch also.
Quote from: "s12vea"The cobra is more restrictive than others, but all depends what your looking for. My tte worked fine at 235bhp but was showing signs of restriction according to the mapper.
You would be fine with cobra or tte up to that power range.
Just so I know what I'm looking for. What are signs of restriction?, is it something that can be spotted without being plugged into a rolling road.
Quote from: "CrazySX"Hi Lee, thanks for the info, how much power you running and with what turbo/PSI?
How much was the clutch?
What bore size are the pipes on the Cobra? 2.5 inch?
clutch is here
m http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/toyota/ ... -1171.html (http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/toyota/mr2/clutches-flywheels/spec-clutch-1171.html) m
Turbo is TD04, T25 modified with larger compressor wheel ,currently running at 12psi chargecooled, a bit high but it's not blown up yet s:D :D s:D
No idea on the power.
I think the cobra is 2.5
Quote from: "s12vea"The cobra is more restrictive than others, but all depends what your looking for. My tte worked fine at 235bhp but was showing signs of restriction according to the mapper.
You would be fine with cobra or tte up to that power range.
OMG! 235bhp!!! I am getting well excited! power to the tonne its probably the same if not more than the 200 s:D :D s:D Does it spin up the tyres with that power?
Quote from: "s12vea"With the stuff you already have you should see an easy 200-230bhp
Mine ran 235bhp @ 9.5psi with uprated injectors and standard fuel pump. The 2 takes to running a turbo pretty well, you will need to update the clutch with power over 200bhp / 200 Ib ft - mine is a helix which has a nice pedal feel and can handle more than capable. Some people run the trd clutch also.
Good to know that i don't need to mess with the pump. Helix clutch you say, i shall check it out. Thanks Buddy!
Quote from: "Leethesparky"Quote from: "s12vea"The cobra is more restrictive than others, but all depends what your looking for. My tte worked fine at 235bhp but was showing signs of restriction according to the mapper.
You would be fine with cobra or tte up to that power range.
Just so I know what I'm looking for. What are signs of restriction?, is it something that can be spotted without being plugged into a rolling road.
Quote from: "CrazySX"Hi Lee, thanks for the info, how much power you running and with what turbo/PSI?
How much was the clutch?
What bore size are the pipes on the Cobra? 2.5 inch?
clutch is here
m http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/toyota/ ... -1171.html (http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/toyota/mr2/clutches-flywheels/spec-clutch-1171.html) m
Turbo is TD04, T25 modified with larger compressor wheel ,currently running at 12psi chargecooled, a bit high but it's not blown up yet s:D :D s:D
No idea on the power.
I think the cobra is 2.5
Nearly £400!!! I think i will look for a more economical alternative s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
I know i shouldn't be asking, but what sort of MPG are you guys getting?
I get 240 to a full tank as it is, so i wouldn't imagine it would be a lot worse, surely!
On a seperate note, i would imagine you are all running a boost gauge, AFR, and Oil. Where did you mount them?
Centre pods popular, and pillar pods less popular as there quite abit of work. im lucky that nathan has done both, only thing not setup is the afr.
To be honest I get around 240 to the tank, I thought it was using fuel but obviously not s:D :D s:D
Boost,afr, oil pres, oil temp.
(http://s376.photobucket.com/user/Leethesparky/media/20150401_164632_zps9gtqruri.jpg.html)
Quote from: "tomaky"Centre pods popular, and pillar pods less popular as there quite abit of work. I'm lucky that nathan has done both, only thing not setup is the afr.
Where can I get a centre pod (something to add to my list of things to collect over the next few months)
Quote from: "Leethesparky"To be honest I get around 240 to the tank, I thought it was using fuel but obviously not s:D :D s:D
Boost,afr, oil pres, oil temp.
(http://s376.photobucket.com/user/Leethesparky/media/20150401_164632_zps9gtqruri.jpg.html)
OMG so no difference at all then! I need boost asap!!
Mind u... is that driving like a granny or a mix?
Quote from: "CrazySX"Mind u... is that driving like a granny or a mix?
I would say a mix, it's hard to keep out of boost when it scares my missus, s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:
If driving "light footed" a turbo can be more economical. On a good run I managed 345 miles out of mine, but on a sprited drive your looking 220
Cobra is 2.25" iirc and pretty restrictive. I'm going to be removing my 2 3/8" Blitz Nurspec soon as that's also too small and has a pretty sharp bend in it. 2.5" with less bends would be the preference for me.
Quote from: "s12vea"The cobra is more restrictive than others, but all depends what your looking for. My tte worked fine at 235bhp but was showing signs of restriction according to the mapper.
You would be fine with cobra or tte up to that power range.
What turbo were you using? Do you have any pictures of your down pipe? Turbo to main cat?
Quote from: "s12vea"If driving "light footed" a turbo can be more economical. On a good run I managed 345 miles out of mine, but on a sprited drive your looking 220
That was on my sp turbo kit which ran the t25, I will see if I have any pictures
Has anyone got a pic of their intercooler mounted and the pipe run?
Look at the tte installation manual I'm sure it will show you.
Looking at it now, great document!!!
yep great doc. Page 50 - 52.
And for a real life pic.
m http://mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php? ... 17#p210811 (http://mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17136&p=210817#p210811) m
Thanks ardent that's very helpful! Only thing that worries me in that position is if it gets crunched on a hump!!!
I would say if it does then a lot of other bits will be the squish as well, as it is tucked up higher than the lowest point. red part of chassis.
Edit.
Having looked at it in the flesh, despite how it looks in the manual and the pics. It does actually sit on the angle and not tucked up as it looks.
Sorry about that. Came as a surprise to me.
Never caught mine yet mostly it's my mid brace that takes the brunt.
Ok so a couple of updates. Replaced my driver side seat belt last week as it was frayed.
Next jobs on the list are front brakes as the pads are worn thin and replace the rear subframe.
I found these pads m http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 68&alt=web (http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=111504163168&alt=web) m
anyone tried them?
And thinking of going for drilled and grooved discs. Suggestions welcome.
Oh I also changed the oil in the gearbox last week. The oil that came out didn't look too clever
Also I would say just over a litre came out so probable the original factory stuff s:o :o s:o
Anyway I stuck 2 bottles of this stuff in
m http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 74&alt=web (http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=161255484174&alt=web) m
What a difference!
Jobs left to do...
Replace subframe
Replace front brakes
Fit Tein S springs
Replace/refurb wheels
Wheel alignment
Do something with the front bumper I have not yet picked up s:o :o s:o fit splitter and SMD LED fogs (with halo)
Take out headlights, de-cloud, blacken, fit LED sides and HID mains
Paint and fit JDL skirts
Get Dings taken out (next wknd s:D :D s:D )
And whilst doing all that collect parts for turbo build.
So far I have secured a oil drain. And have all the bits as listed at the start.
I need to get a TTE style intercooler. Or I am going to look at fitting a sidemount near one of the side ducts.
Today I started to clean the replacement subframe.
First I used a grease remover
Then I used washing up powder with a scourer s:) :) s:)
Started with this
Ended up with this..
Next steps to get a wire brush on a drill and get all the surface rust gone.
Then a tub of hammerite and a can of bilthamber dynax.
Not sure if I should use a primer.. don't need it with hammerite rite?
Is look at getting a tub of rust eater of some sort, may as well get the stuff out properly whilst you're putting in the effort.
For the brakes is consider getting yellow stuff rather than those pads you linked to, since is you're throwing a turbo at it you'll probably be arriving a bit more urgently than normal and a bit of extra power and fade resistance won't go amiss.. !
Quote from: "jonty"Is look at getting a tub of rust eater of some sort, may as well get the stuff out properly whilst you're putting in the effort.
For the brakes is consider getting yellow stuff rather than those pads you linked to, since is you're throwing a turbo at it you'll probably be arriving a bit more urgently than normal and a bit of extra power and fade resistance won't go amiss.. !
The rust really ain't that bad. It's just surface rust. I have rust eater but hammerite is suppose to be good for it.
As for the brakes, what are yellow stuff pads like from cold?
I have yellow stuff with Grooved and drilled disks.
Stops well enough but is noisy.
Good from cold IMHO.
When I'm done with the disks I currently have will probably go back to stock disks.
That's interesting to know. I had grooved discs on a car once and they are noise and tend to create a lot more dust than normal. Also the drilled discs can crack.
My discs are actually in decent shape just a bit rusty. Might just stick a set of stock discs on with good pads then. Somebody else has also recommended yellowstuff.
My current discs and pads...
Now wait... s:( :( s:(
Quote from: "CrazySX"I was hoping to get it painted today. But this stuff takes 24hrs to fully cure. Thanks Jonty :p
Haha sorry mate, will be worth it though! Good effort, my brother's s2000, my mr2 and our jointly owned 200sx all need a lot of this type of love... s:( :( s:(
Oh, and as for brakes I never use drilled or grooved discs, seems all they do is wear pads faster, no benefit to performance and just cost more....
Quote from: "jonty"Oh, and as for brakes I never use drilled or grooved discs, seems all they do is wear pads faster, no benefit to performance and just cost more....
My 200sx needs some of this too. Will hit that next. Need to do this first as it's my daily.
I see you're coming to Dong day, will be good to put a face to the name s:) :) s:)
I'm not confirmed yet as I don't have the car MOT'd, but yeah it'll be good to get along to a meet soon mate!
Quote from: "jonty"I'm not confirmed yet as I don't have the car MOT'd, but yeah it'll be good to get along to a meet soon mate!
You got a whole week man, get on it s:) :) s:)
Yeah I know, but don't want to commit til I'm certain... Should be ok, all I need to do for the 2zz conversion is do the wiring changes (add 3 wires to the plug and move 3 wires) and I'm all set. I fired it up on the 1zz ecu and it worked fine, so that was a big milestone. (And a fvcking huge relief!!)
Looks very similar to my own (lack of) skills with a paint brush & how my on recent x-member transplant turned out
The one & only time I ever did gloss work on a door, it looked like this. She's never let me near a paint brush in the house since. Result imho s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "cptspaulding"Looks very similar to my own (lack of) skills with a paint brush & how my on recent x-member transplant turned out
The one & only time I ever did gloss work on a door, it looked like this. She's never let me near a paint brush in the house since. Result imho s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Hahahaaha! i am not best pleased with the finish of the paint to be honest. However its hard work trying to paint in all the nook and crannies, and over the welds, you keep getting drips to smooth out, and by then the paint is not as plyable and you get streaks! Maybe i should have used the spray on stuff.
To be honest however, i don't really care how pretty it looks, as long as it is clean and protected for a few years s:) :) s:) Oh and most importantly better than the one that is on there and gets through its MOT.
Update for today! One word subframe!
Learned a few lessons today, 3 bolts that hold the heats shield to the subframe that have never been mentioned in and of the guides. 2 at the top 12mm, can be undone from the top using a super long extension
And one hidden one that I discovered when the subframe came down!
The other thing: check your gearbox mount! Mine was a little worn. Luckily the subframe I bought had one with it. Not perfect but better than mine!
Another thing which was never mentioned is the 2 braces. Best to remove these all together
14mm bolts.
Support the gearbox with a jack once u undo the mount else it will never line up when putting back in
And one very valuable lesson.. there are 3 unused holes on top of the subframe. They are the same size as the thread for the 12mm heatshield bolts. When I undid the big bolts (attaching the subframe to the chassis) water seeped out!!! I suspect this is where it comes from and this is possibly the cause of the rust!
I plugged mine up
The clean ones are used. The others are left to allow water in!!!!
Great work that man! Did you get it finished and back together?
Final lesson is, used a strong pipe to give u leverage on the end of your rachet.
U must have balls of steel to do this at home on the floor!
It would have taken half the time on a ramp.
Anyway new subby is in and arms have been rubbed back and have a coat of hammerite on them. That's all for today folks!
Get a breaker bar, well worth the money
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Get a breaker bar, well worth the money
Tube on a rachet works better as u can extend as necessary. Working on the floor the breaker bar bottoms out. As we found on Sam's car on dong day s:( :( s:(
Also u can keep going once u cracked it s;) ;) s;)
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Great work that man! Did you get it finished and back together?
Subframe is back in. Just cleaning up the arms. Will be back together today. But staying on axel stands as springs will be done next wknd s:) :) s:)
Ok I just finished it, everything is all bolted back up with copper easy on the smooth bits of the bolts.
I am knackered today, every part of my body aches lol!
And from the top...
I wish I had a ramp so I could take Car of all the corrosion under the car.
I got rid of some near the sill at the quarter panel. Nothing fancy just a wire wheel in a drill then some rust convertor. As I don't have any underseal I might just hammerite it :p
i might buy one of these next year! worthwhile investment i think s:) :) s:)
m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-POST-LIFT-C ... 4ae93f22d8 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-POST-LIFT-CAR-VEHICLE-RAMP-HOIST-4-TON-NEW-999-18-month-warranty-/321740808920?hash=item4ae93f22d8) m
Need to get my flat pack garage first though something like this,
m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rowlinson-Ape ... 4d24c97821 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rowlinson-Apex-Murryhill-Metal-Garage-12-x-17ft-/331329665057?hash=item4d24c97821) m
but not sure i would have the height for a ramp, may need to modify the garage :p
Not a bad setup for sub 2.5k
attach the garage to the lift, so they go up together.
Good job on getting it bolted back in, looks good s:) :) s:)
Update time. Replaced the rear springs today and while there I renewed the shocks and fitted new drop links s;) ;) s;)
I am so glad I changed the springs cus I found this....
And on the other side...
s:o :o s:o :o:o
So shocks before and after..
Top mounts before and after
And the whole thing before and after
Top tips..
If you want to undo the drop links successfully hammer your 5mm Allen key into the rear of the drop link ball joint, make sure it's well in there. Only the bottom one which connects to the ARB. Then 14mm spanned and get a rachet onto your Allen.
Do the other one when the shock is off the car.
I actually used a screw type ball joint separator to drive in the Allen as deep as it would go!
Second tip..
When undoing the top nut on the shock, slack it off while still in the car. Don't totally undo it, just crack it off.
I took the shock out and then had to try for ages with a self grip plier (mole grips for normal people) and they just slipped and slipped. Then I wedge a hammer handle between two of the studs and managed to crack it!?
Tomorrow onto the front s:) :) s:)
Great build mate. Black is my fave colour of Mr2 aswell. I think I may have to add some carbon wrap to my apperance.
Also, I'm running a 3 inch custom all the way back off the downpipe, and I'm pretty sure it's too big but with a bit more boost I can see the need. I do get awesome flames and pops though!
Quote from: "Swan_Connery"Great build mate. Black is my fave colour of Mr2 aswell. I think I may have to add some carbon wrap to my apperance.
Also, I'm running a 3 inch custom all the way back off the downpipe, and I'm pretty sure it's too big but with a bit more boost I can see the need. I do get awesome flames and pops though!
Hey Swan,
I am in ore. I can't wait to turbo mine. Will use my TTE exhaust and just blow into it. May lose the cat though. We shall see. I have a TS bumper, might attempt to wrap that black as I have nowhere to paint it. But can use the lounge to wrap while the mrs is out :p
Thanks for sending the shocks! Your a lifesaver.
Then I assembled them all up with new Tein S springs and fitted them. The next job on the list was discs and pads. But the dust Shields were really corroded and the calipers looked a but sorry for themselves so they got some derusted treatment too.
One side all done, just need to fit my new discs and yellow stuff pads
I didn't manage to finish the other side. Caliper and dust shield have rust convertor on them. Just need painting on saturday then full re-assembly
That's all for today s;) ;) s;)
I was thinking of replacing or removing the Shields but it looks like they are sandwiched by the hub!!!! s:mad: :mad: s:mad:
Looking good mate. Time and patience. Time and patience s:D :D s:D
Update time...
Brakes all serviced and fitted up.
Ok so I have a little concern. On the front shocks, there is a little shoulder on which the metal plate locks. The the top mount fits on top.
I am talking about this little shoulder
And this metal plate, not sure what the real name is lol its in the background in this pic.
Now.. the drivers side has locked and is all good. But the passenger side doesn't seem to have and when I turn the steering wheel then I can see the top nut and strut shaft turn with it. Is this ok and will it eventually find its way into position allowing me to tighten the nut or do I need to disassemble it all again and position it s:( :( s:(
That was the old knackered shock btw. Not going back on the car lol!
Ok all done, I did it in situ. Slackened the bolt, pulled down the bump stop and dust cover. Got some grips in there, rotated to where it should be and tightened it up. Mind at rest now s:) :) s:)
Erm, yeh, when I did the springs on my mx5 I built them up on the bench and locked the shaft to tighten everything up before fitting. Had it out yet?
Quote from: "Swan_Connery"Erm, yeh, when I did the springs on my mx5 I built them up on the bench and locked the shaft to tighten everything up before fitting. Had it out yet?
As per the post above yours, I managed to sort it without taking the whole thing out. All sorted now. I am happy s:) :) s:) on the rears the flat bit is all the way along the threaded bit of the shaft. Fronts just have a littlw shoulder. I only realised once I had fully reassembled the passenger side and only realised on the drivers side so did that one the way it was supposed to be done.
Ok so it's feedback time. The yellow stuff pads are awesome!! I am 56 miles into bedding in and they feel great. Some dik in front of me slammed on the anchors today so I had to do the same. I hope my brakes are ok. Still feel ok.
Suspension feels so much nicer and smoother and planted. Still need to get the tracking done, but I am due the MOT this wknd, so going to get my rear wheel bearing changed over and a rotten exhaust clamp changed. I think that's all it needs.
Overall what a transformation even with crap budget tyres and wheels misaligned!
My bedding-in process for pads is generally to accelerate to 60-70 and then brake down to 10-20mph repeatedly until the pedal goes away completely, do that a few times and you're good to go (...for trackdays when a lunchtime swap has been required there aren't many other options!) and I've never noticed short pad life or any other problem from this... yellows are meant to be ready to go anyway, so they don't need much bedding.
They have a quick bed in coating, once that's gone (it's red) they are bedded in s:) :) s:)
Thanks guys, yeah they do have that coating but i wasnt sure how many miles it would take for it to be gone and there is not real way of checking unless i remove them. The brakes do feel amazing! The only reported issue i have known about with being heavy footed on new brakes is that pads get glazed and then aren't as effective and they squeel. so you have to take it all apart and abrade it!
m http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/how-to-be ... driving-2/ (http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/how-to-bed-in-your-new-brakes-for-streeturban-driving-2/) m
200-300 miles s:o :o s:o and with new discs 1000!!!
They get really, really good when very hot too
I'd not heard of the glazing issue, but if it happened to me I'd try and just power through it... nothing like getting them hot and under load to clean them up!
My brakes were properly seized up after the car was parked for 2 years, with the rear calipers needing replacement, but the discs and pads are perfectly happy after being given a bit of stick... I was expecting to need new yellows and discs, so I'm really pleased that the old stuff is rock solid still!
wouldn't power through glazed pads s:) :) s:) Unless you want to power through the farmhouse at the end of hte lane. hahaha
What was the cause of the accident sir? I was trying to de-glaze my pads officer
Quote from: "shnazzle"wouldn't power through glazed pads s:) :) s:) Unless you want to power through the farmhouse at the end of hte lane. hahaha
What was the cause of the accident sir? I was trying to de-glaze my pads officer
Haha good point! Although I would probably advocate doing it whilst not actually requiring to stop, as when pointing at said farmhouse it may be too late!
Ok so a little update. I took my car in for MOT and the rear brake cables were holding the cables too tight so had them done while there and a new exhaust clamp. Both jobs I didn't really want to do.
Anyway.. passed MOT yay!
Also put this up in the garden today
My paint booth and place to do little jobs s:D :D s:D
Not much choice other than drilling them out, I don't think. Unless someones got a better idea. Start with a small drill bit and work up to just under the thread size. You may be lucky and the rest of the bolt will come out, if not you may need to re-tap the thread.
Good luck. s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "mxcum167"Not much choice other than drilling them out, I don't think. Unless someones got a better idea. Start with a small drill bit and work up to just under the thread size. You may be lucky and the rest of the bolt will come out, if not you may need to re-tap the thread.
Good luck. s:) :) s:)
s:( :( s:( i was hoping for a genius idea! hate drilling out bolts lol! i did try to grip the bottom with mole grips and try winding it out but was a waste of time, the brackets are made of cheese, don't wanna bend them.
i have come to a conclusion about the MR2, its all made of cheese!
I drilled them out and replaced with stainless fasteners.
If you are worried about damaging the thread then go for an easy out, but soak them in plus gas prior to trying.
Well done on the MOT
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"I drilled them out and replaced with stainless fasteners.
If you are worried about damaging the thread then go for an easy out, but soak them in plus gas prior to trying.
Well done on the MOT
Stainless fasteners? You got a pic?
Not to hand sorry, there will be some in my build thread though.
It's nothing fancy, just some stainless steel bolts from eBay, I replaced loads of them when i tidied up the frunk area s:) :) s:)
May need to take it a bit easier on the bolts if you're snapping that many. Soak them in PlusGas or some industrial release agent for a good while, then try rocking the bolt tight and loose instead of just torquing the crap out of it. Usually if you get it to loosen up the first bit, it will come out. But if you overtorque it while it's still firmly stuck, it will shear every time.
I've learned this while working on the two. My bolt-shearing percentage has dropped signifiantly s:) :) s:) Except for the ones on the bottom of the car...they're hopelessly weak, stuck and rotten.
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Not to hand sorry, there will be some in my build thread though.
It's nothing fancy, just some stainless steel bolts from eBay, I replaced loads of them when i tidied up the frunk area s:) :) s:)
thats a good idea! i will get some stainless bolts s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "shnazzle"May need to take it a bit easier on the bolts if you're snapping that many. Soak them in PlusGas or some industrial release agent for a good while, then try rocking the bolt tight and loose instead of just torquing the crap out of it. Usually if you get it to loosen up the first bit, it will come out. But if you overtorque it while it's still firmly stuck, it will shear every time.
I've learned this while working on the two. My bolt-shearing percentage has dropped signifiantly s:) :) s:) Except for the ones on the bottom of the car...they're hopelessly weak, stuck and rotten.
the top bumper bolts were really tight!!! and they penetrating fluid had no chance of penetration as the bolt was seated firmly on the bumper plastic.
The one that came out alive i managed to loosen, get in some WD, then rock back and forth s:) :) s:) But i know what you mean, i was in a race against the light too s:( :( s:(
That's how I ended up doing the most damage, rushing things s:) :) s:) haha. Fighting light sucks! this is why I want a double-garage with good lighting.
Alas...the new house has no garage at all. fail.
Quote from: "shnazzle"That's how I ended up doing the most damage, rushing things s:) :) s:) haha. Fighting light sucks! this is why I want a double-garage with good lighting.
Alas...the new house has no garage at all. fail.
Get a GAzebo as an interim! cheap and chirpy! else get a metal garage and assemble it in the back garden, that's if you have access to the back by car.
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Not to hand sorry, there will be some in my build thread though.
It's nothing fancy, just some stainless steel bolts from eBay, I replaced loads of them when i tidied up the frunk area s:) :) s:)
what M size are the bolts? are they M6?
I think so, I'd have to check it was a while a go now!
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"I think so, I'd have to check it was a while a go now!
I want to order them today, they look like M6 but could be M5, its hard to measure the threaded side without a vernier caliper. would appreciate if you could check and let me know s:) :) s:)
Ok, so today I first tried to drill out the snapped bolts. What I pain. One of the snapped bolts I managed to drill all the way through and now needs tapping. The other two... i drilled about half way then managed to snap the drill bit inside!!!!! s:x :x s:x
So I gave up on that cus it was depressing me and I had reached the end of my tether!!!
I trial fitted the TS bumper and it was miles out on the lines. The two outer edges were too wide, and the shut line between the bonnet and bumper was too big. Also the space under the lights was way to big.
Pics..
Sides..
The other side I hadn't taken a shot of before I trimmed it.
Shut line..
Gap between headlights..
They are M6 bolts dude.... Screwfix sell a wide range of stainless bolts dude and they are as cheap as eBay so might be worth popping to your local branch.... I replaced a load of the ones on my mk2 and plan to do the same with the mk3 when I get started on it again properly s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "vinp182"They are M6 bolts dude.... Screwfix sell a wide range of stainless bolts dude and they are as cheap as eBay so might be worth popping to your local branch.... I replaced a load of the ones on my mk2 and plan to do the same with the mk3 when I get started on it again properly s:) :) s:)
Thanks Vin! You are a star!!! I was at screwfix yesterday. Didn't think doh! Will go today and see what they have. Use loads of penetrating fluid and go easy on the bolts or you will end up in the same sshit shit sshit as me s:( :( s:(
Quote from: "CrazySX"Quote from: "vinp182"They are M6 bolts dude.... Screwfix sell a wide range of stainless bolts dude and they are as cheap as eBay so might be worth popping to your local branch.... I replaced a load of the ones on my mk2 and plan to do the same with the mk3 when I get started on it again properly s:) :) s:)
Thanks Vin! You are a star!!! I was at screwfix yesterday. Didn't think doh! Will go today and see what they have. Use loads of penetrating fluid and go easy on the bolts or you will end up in the same **** as me s:( :( s:(
My mk3 has been apart more times than I've had hot dinners s:lol: :lol: s:lol: and its stored inside so hopefully I'll be good but it's good advice non the less s:) :) s:)
That bumper looks warped in places. Or is it just the lighting? Especially front the front it looks like it's got bumps and lumps all over the place instead of a smooth flow
Quote from: "shnazzle"That bumper looks warped in places. Or is it just the lighting? Especially front the front it looks like it's got bumps and lumps all over the place instead of a smooth flow
It's not lumpy and bumpy, but it's not very well made to be honest.
The left edge on the shut line is a bit high. And the bottom left of the mouth is not as nice as the right
Left
Right
Bottom left
Bottom right
I dunno whether to get in touch with hzaltezza and express my concerns or lump it. I mean I didn't expect it to fit out of the box but I expected a better quality mould s:x :x s:x
Quote from: "CrazySX"I dunno whether to get in touch with hzaltezza and express my concerns or lump it. I mean I didn't expect it to fit out of the box but I expected a better quality mould s:x :x s:x
I'd send an email dude if you aren't fully happy with it
Quote from: "vinp182"Quote from: "CrazySX"I dunno whether to get in touch with hzaltezza and express my concerns or lump it. I mean I didn't expect it to fit out of the box but I expected a better quality mould s:x :x s:x
I'd send an email dude if you aren't fully happy with it
I sent them a message on here. Let's see what happens.
Still looks good to me. To the untrained eye they wouldn't notice.
Thanks Swan. It just bothers me cus I know about it. Also HZ told me their bumpers were of superior quality. The quality of the finish is nice. But when you pay £220 quid for something you expect a bit more.
I can sort out the top edge, but the bottom bit is poor moulding. Not sure if I just got a bad one or if all are like that. Let's see what they come back with. Just means my plans are halted and it's a nice day for paint today.
Oh well gonna try do something with the studs. When I get fed up with that then I will pull out the headlights and split/paint black s;) ;) s;)
Ok so yesterday I managed to drill out two of the top bolts and the bottom one too! Also tapped.
Then pulled out the headlights. The design is quite annoying there is a plastic clip under the headlight. You have to pull the headlight quite hard to get it out after undoing the 2 bolts and 1 nut.
Anyway.. heated up the glue with a heat gun and slowly prised it apart. It was a bit daunting at first, especially with a screwdriver!
For the Second headlight I had a genius moment. Go steal a butter knife from the kitchen!!!! This did a much nicer job. However I don't think everyone is cut out for this. It's a horrible job really. The glue gets all gooey and goes everywhere. Also sticks to your skin like a b4stard!
Anyway.. pics..
Not entirely happy as the paint doesnt seem to have stuck in crevis. So gonna have to rub it back and then more primer.
Is it possible to get brand new lenses on their own?
ok i have decided, once the headlight lenses have been cleaned on the inside and the headlight is back together i am going to do this:
m https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEJbKLZ7RmM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEJbKLZ7RmM) m
Use a proper spray room unfortunately s:( :( s:( outside will always be dusty
Quote from: "Jrichards20"Use a proper spray room unfortunately s:( :( s:( outside will always be dusty
I am in a gazebo tent thing lol! Was just wondering if I could buy some sort of dust extractor. I did have a crazy idea of getting two radiator fans on reverse sucking the air out of the gazebo. If they are good enough to cool a blazing hot engine then should be ok to suck out the dust? ?
You will find its the spray that was in the air falling back, dry day outside the tent would actually be better
It could just move dust round and make it worse. If you can somehow, don't think possible unless on concrete or similar, cover up all holes to outside and have a dust extractor may help a bit, but I can never see it being perfect in a gazebo outside s:( :( s:( .
Depends how much ocd you have, I'm sure you can get it looking good and almost perfect to the naked eye.but if you want it spotless I don't think you have any options s:( :( s:(
What about this. . I am tempted.. m http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 75&alt=web (http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=281810760375&alt=web) m
Could only help surely!
Worse case I will paint the Base, flat it back then lacquer, then flat again once fully dry s;) ;) s;)
Buying all this equipment and paint I can't help thinking it would be cheaper to pay a Bodyshop to paint it? A local Bodyshop will do good cash prices
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Buying all this equipment and paint I can't help thinking it would be cheaper to pay a Bodyshop to paint it? A local Bodyshop will do good cash prices
Hahahahaha! I was thinking the same. But I do have other stuff to paint too. For the Nissan. And also wheels to touch up s:) :) s:)
Plus doing it myself means I get to have a big grin on my face when all done!
Might ask a garage just to make myself feel worse/better :p
Ok so I bolted the covers back in place and have done away with the yellow covers s;) ;) s;)
Now to clean up these p1ss stained pieces of plastic s:( :( s:(
Polished the inside with renovo and look at the crap that came off.
Still yellow on the outside. Gonna have to go to extreme measures and sand a lacquer it once the headlight is back together.
I had an idea, but not sure. Was thinking of fitting yellow halos in the indicator hole. Yay or nay?
They look good mate well done
Every time I read your thread mate you give me more ideas for my car! Good job, lovin the black. s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "Swan_Connery"Every time I read your thread mate you give me more ideas for my car! Good job, lovin the black. s:D :D s:D
I am glad i can be of inspiration!
I saw the white Top Secret / JDL MR2 and wanted to recreate it in black, and i have always thought the eyes (headlights) on the MR2 have been a bit imposing! The black does look really good! Gazbills did it before me and shared his progress when i was looking for inspiration l viewtopic.php?f=8&t=54649 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=54649) l
So i ordered these m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281555086314? ... EBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281555086314?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=580574282301&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) m with the intention of putting them in the indicator hole and doing away with the bulb. Only thing is i will have to wait until Tuesday and the weather is going to turn to Sh1t on Monday so i don't want the car left with no headlights and the connectors hanging out in the rain.
What do i do, wait and fit them cus they look awesome? or re-assemble and fit silver bulbs (which i have already ordered), because the halo indicators will look chavtastic?
Ok update time!!! So.. this wknd and during the week I have been further fettling the front bumper. I called HZ Altezza and they just said that all copy fibre glass bits are not perfect and that I should expect such imperfections. So no point F ING around. I will let the pics speak.
So i sanded down the proud edges and sorted the shut line s;) ;) s;)
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_162711.jpg.html)
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_162658.jpg.html)
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_162718.jpg.html)
Also marked out the badge holes and drilled them. The template was taken from the old bumper.
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_162905.jpg.html)
Then i had to deal with the bare fibreglass so on with some 2k filler primer and had to use stopper where sanding back the fibreglass introduced some pin holes between fibres.
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_175736.jpg.html)
By this time it was about 5.30pm, running out of light and the filler/stopper would not be hard enough to sand so left it as is and moved on to the lights s:) :) s:)
So the lights..
Yesterday i was caught up in a number of things to do (not car related) so only managed to fit the halo indicators during the day, with the orange indicator lens now gone i drilled a hole in the indicator recess so i could get the wire out. Had to cut the wires on the halo as there was a little circuit board attached
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151003_134921.jpg.html)
Then for some epoxy glue to hold the ring in:
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151003_141423.jpg.html)
What i learned here is that you should put the glue on the back of the ring, and not in the headlight :p anyway, ring is in:
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151003_141248.jpg.html)
I am glad we aren't getting our new kitchen until next year :p
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151003_141256.jpg.html)
I then had to make a trip to Kent to get these
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_183915.jpg.html)
and met Lee in Person, love his car, can't wait to get my turbo on! Thanks Lee for the white knuckle ride s:D :D s:D
I got back from Kent around 9pm and was a little tired from the drive, but needed to get the lights back together!!! so..
i then i polished the inside of the lights with some Renovo, i don't know if this was a good idea, but its done now, and some muck did come out so can't be bad!
Getting the lenses back on was a bit of a horrible job with a heat gun. but managed to get it done, then gave the lights some silicone sealant to make sure they are 100% watertight, also sealed around the halo wires while there. I was not really happy with the finished product as the lenses looked cr4p.
Nice work. Have you got a pic of the finished light with the indicator in / on?
so.. not being able to progress with the bumper today (shame as it was a good day to paint s:( :( s:( ) I moved on the misty lenses on the headlights! Yellow and misty and scratched.
don't look bad at this angle:
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_171928.jpg.html)
but look now:
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_171933.jpg.html)
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_171936.jpg.html)
So on to operation headlight restoration (permafix!)
Sand down with 1000 grit and soapy water
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_165330.jpg.html)
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_170023.jpg.html)
Then 1500
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_170555.jpg.html)
Then 2500
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_170944.jpg.html)
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_171718.jpg.html)
I then had to do something about the mould and dirt in the inside bit of the edges:
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_171119.jpg.html)
so out came this:
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_171124.jpg.html)
Then i cleaned down the lights, let them dry for a while, then gave them a wipe with some panel wipe, then waited for them to dry again. I had the heat gun on full power in the gazebo s:D :D s:D
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_184204.jpg.html)
Then on with the 2k lacquer:
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_180835.jpg.html)
This is after 1 coat:
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_180824.jpg.html)
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_180817.jpg.html)
I gave it a further 4 coats or was it 3?? lol!
and this is the end product s:D :D s:D
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_182012.jpg.html)
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_182525.jpg.html)
I can now see where i should have buffed out the renovo a little more, and also the brittle internal cracking can be seen. Hard to take a pic so i used the flash and it did the trick s;) ;) s;)
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_182535.jpg.html)
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_182550.jpg.html)
These light lenses are a bit poor if i am honest, i am sure the lenses on the Yaris were of better quality!!
Anyway, i am happy with the end result, you can't see the imperfections in normal light and the headlights look good overall, i can also rest in the fact that i know a) the lacquer is holding the lens together better and i won't have to buff it again in a couple of months!
The heat gun was left on in the gazebo for about 15mins after the last coat went on then i left them in there and they will be left for a while until the lacquer has cured!
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20151004_184212.jpg.html)
Thats all for today folks! s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Nice work. Have you got a pic of the finished light with the indicator in / on?
Hey Mark,
I bench tested it with the lens as it was before, and it looked good! would have looked better if the lens as not frosted. Will get some pics up once the headlights are fully cured and back on the car.
For the time being, here are some pics of the car when i first got it, so that we have a reference point for when the facelift is revealed s;) ;) s;)
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20150703_120923.jpg.html)
(http://s184.photobucket.com/user/danny4q/media/20150703_120621.jpg.html)
The rear won't change much, i think i will just get some spats for it, be good if i can get OEM plastic ones, but might just get FRP ones if it comes to it.
I wish i had massive garage and i didn't have to go to work, i really really want to get my bumper finished and get the sideskirts done too! I want to do them to the best of my ability. Not so you can see its a home job :p
I think next on my purchase list is going to be this:
m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111777066208 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111777066208) m
Whilst i was browsing ebay, i just saw these!!!! m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/toyota-mr2-ro ... 6016.l4276 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/toyota-mr2-roadster-front-spats-lips-new-product-fits-facelift-bumper-rare-item-/171957910522?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276) m Can't believe someone is finally reproducing them! I wanted them so badly at one point, but for the £70 more, i am happy with the TS front bumper transforms the look!
Looking good mate. That gazeebo is doing the job, not sure it'll be up to our winters though!
I'm also tempted with those front spats, then maybe some for the rear?
Quote from: "Swan_Connery"Looking good mate. That gazeebo is doing the job, not sure it'll be up to our winters though!
I'm also tempted with those front spats, then maybe some for the rear?
Thanks bud. The gazebo came with 4 bags that you can strap to the posts and fill with something heavy. They actually fit two 2 litre bottles of pop exactly so might do this. Although if I get my stuff done then I think I will take it down as I don't want it ruined!
It's a great bit of kit, it's a pop up gazebo, so opens like a massive umbrella lol! Takes no time at all to put up.
As for the spats, I will definitely get the rears. The rear will need something once the skirts are on and the mudflaps are gone.
So today I rubbed down the bumper once more and gave it some stopper where I discovered some pin holes
While that was drying I thought I would reinstall/reassemble my headlights. 5min job right... WRONG!
The plan was to install HIDs and LED sidelight.
The sidelights were easy enough but u never know if they are the right way round lol!
Then I moved on to the HID installation, what a nightmare!
I thought I had it sussed.
Then I discovered this..
This has to sit on top of the bulb else it is loose in the hole!
The HID bulb had no chance as it has wires attached. So I had to resolve to this...
And then this..
Then filled with silicone s:) :) s:)
I was happy with the overall result. But will now need to source some of those plastic fittings.
Next I had to sort out the wiring for the Halo indicators. So I got some 2.8mm spades and ground them down a little. Then crimped and heatshrink.
There is also a littlw circuit board attached to the halos so I did away with the plastic box and also got some heatshrink on them.
I also saw that the headlight connector on the HIDs was a bit unprotected to heatshrink on that too..
Headlight 1 all ready to rock
Bits passed off though as where the headlight was resting on a towel it has picked up an imprint of the towel! s:o :o s:o
Also not very happy about the lenses. Will need to be be redone one day, but will do for now.
The second headlight was a lot easier to do as I knew what to do this time lol!
I then came to fitting to the car. Had to test everything out before bolting down and I managed to blow the sidelight fuse. Searched high and low for a fuse. Couldn't find it. Must have spent an hr f-in round and then finally it hit home. Tail lights and sidelights work on the same circuit!!! Tail light 2 fuse was out so I replaced it and wow! The SMD LED bulbs are amazing! HID looks fantastic too. And the Halo indicators...
Pics don't really do it justice to be honest.
Bloody long job! Glad it's done! Just need to mount everything nicely now and then bolt them in.
Ok so last night while lying in bed I was thinking.. if I had something long with a fluffy bit on the end, I could poke it through the bulb hole and buff out the bits I missed.
So today I went and bought a microfiber cloth and a extra long pencil and created this
Managed to get most of the haze out but couldn't get to some bits so created a flexible version s;) ;) s;)
After lots of prodding and poking I ended up with a decent result!
Also took some pics in the daylight.
Sidelights:
HIDs
Moral of the story.. don't Polish ur lenses on one side when the other looks like crap lol!
Necessity is the mother of invention! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Nicely done. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Also made some more progress with the bumper. Rubbed down and reprimed in high build black s;) ;) s;)
Three coats on now. Tomorrow I will flat the whole bumper back with some 1000 and then time for basecoat. Just hope the weather is good for it!
So what did I do today, I spent 2 hrs wet sanding with 1000grit.
Went from this
To this
To this
It was as smooth as a babies bum now, so thought I would hit it with some bade coat. So after wiping it down with some panel wipe and then a tack rag it got 3 coats of Base coat
And then I discovered this! s:evil: :evil: s:evil:
So I thought f*ck you bumper!
So now I am gonna have to let it harden and flat it again and see wtf that spider crack scratch thing is! I am sure it weren't there before!!
Only means I have to flat the whole bumper again s:( :( s:(
Anyway so, I was sick of not being able to drive the car so the old bumper went back on, except I ditched the fogs and put the new ones in!!!
Those fogs are amazing! SMD LED. Pictures really do them no justice.
Oh and another thing, the indicators flash like a bride that is late for her wedding :p
Need to source some resistors and loop them in.
Sometimes you just feel like it's a losing battle s:( :( s:(
Keep plugging away mate, you'll get there eventually!
Paintwork is a bugger, my brother and I have a spray room, but we were getting loads of crap in the paint despite having filters in and out of the room... we changed the door seals so it's now face sealing (had to make a flange around the door to mount the seal on) and then we did the bonnet for the 200sx... it came out looking totally crap, loads of stuff in the surface despite cleaning the room really thoroughly, and then the paint didn't match in the slightest.
It's bloody demoralising, but keep at it and we'll get there eventually...
Quote from: "jonty"Keep plugging away mate, you'll get there eventually!
Paintwork is a bugger, my brother and I have a spray room, but we were getting loads of crap in the paint despite having filters in and out of the room... we changed the door seals so it's now face sealing (had to make a flange around the door to mount the seal on) and then we did the bonnet for the 200sx... it came out looking totally crap, loads of stuff in the surface despite cleaning the room really thoroughly, and then the paint didn't match in the slightest.
It's bloody demoralising, but keep at it and we'll get there eventually...
Thanks bud. Have you got a body shop or experimenting at home?
I haven't actually got sshit shit sshit in the paint this time which is great! I little tip for you, when the Base coat flashes off go over it with a tack rag, then hit it again.
This is the reason I am so ticked off. It was going o so well!!!
Although looking at it now, I think I maybe put on too much Base, it all needs flatting back again.
I have a 200sx bonnet to paint too, that will be fun hahahaha
I think the problem is if you let the paint dry too much between coats each layer gets orange peel, and this builds up and up... For most things we don't mind doing a bit of wet and dry, especially solid colours, but this metallic is a bitch for the highlight getting ruined as soon as you touch it... tack rag between coats could be good, but TBH it's easiest of all to wait til it's dry and nub the inclusions out then... as long as there is enough lacquer you can basically lift out almost anything.
We have a room in our workshop dedicated for prep and painting - it's brushed, hoovered and then dusted down with the airline before we paint, and has proper filters in and out. This gives a pretty good view of the size - it's too small to do the 200sx bonnet, but any other panel is OK:
Quote from: "jonty"I think the problem is if you let the paint dry too much between coats each layer gets orange peel, and this builds up and up... For most things we don't mind doing a bit of wet and dry, especially solid colours, but this metallic is a bitch for the highlight getting ruined as soon as you touch it... tack rag between coats could be good, but TBH it's easiest of all to wait til it's dry and nub the inclusions out then... as long as there is enough lacquer you can basically lift out almost anything.
We have a room in our workshop dedicated for prep and painting - it's brushed, hoovered and then dusted down with the airline before we paint, and has proper filters in and out. This gives a pretty good view of the size - it's too small to do the 200sx bonnet, but any other panel is OK:
Thanks for the hints and tips. my 2k is air drying at rubbish temps, and i am only waiting for it to flash then next coat, however there was one coat which i left for about 30mins before next as i had to go pick up the little one from school.
The only issue i see with your paint room is that your filters run from side to side. In a professional oven the air comes in from above and is extracted below, this does not allow for the overspray to flow upwards, dry and leave sshit shit sshit in the paint lol! Maybe rearrange it and see if it makes a difference.
Quote from: "CrazySX"The only issue i see with your paint room is that your filters run from side to side. In a professional oven the air comes in from above and is extracted below, this does not allow for the overspray to flow upwards, dry and leave sshit shit sshit in the paint lol! Maybe rearrange it and see if it makes a difference.
Exactly also a fan blowing the air away from the product helps. Also if the orange peel is very visable then I would suggest an egg cup of 2k thinners in the mix, helps it to flatten if the atomisation is good.
Maybe it was the longer drying time, but TBH if you get good results from a tin you have done well mate!
We're not able to rearrange it unfortunately, as the inlet is a filter cut into the door, and the exit is the filter over fan in the window! However, I've seen plenty of (older, mind you) paint shops that have a similar horizontal setup, so even though the floor ducted is best as you say, there is another as yet undiscovered reason for it somewhere..
RBucks our paint goes on very nicely, but the lacquer recently has been terrible, so I will suggest to my bro to put in more thinner, thanks for the tip.
Quote from: "rbuckingham"Quote from: "CrazySX"The only issue i see with your paint room is that your filters run from side to side. In a professional oven the air comes in from above and is extracted below, this does not allow for the overspray to flow upwards, dry and leave **** in the paint lol! Maybe rearrange it and see if it makes a difference.
Exactly also a fan blowing the air away from the product helps. Also if the orange peel is very visable then I would suggest an egg cup of 2k thinners in the mix, helps it to flatten if the atomisation is good.
I am using 2k in premixed rattle cans so i am just gonna have to suck it and see, i will flat it back, give it one more coat of base then lacquer s;) ;) s;)
Quote from: "jonty"Maybe it was the longer drying time, but TBH if you get good results from a tin you have done well mate!
We're not able to rearrange it unfortunately, as the inlet is a filter cut into the door, and the exit is the filter over fan in the window! However, I've seen plenty of (older, mind you) paint shops that have a similar horizontal setup, so even though the floor ducted is best as you say, there is another as yet undiscovered reason for it somewhere..
RBucks our paint goes on very nicely, but the lacquer recently has been terrible, so I will suggest to my bro to put in more thinner, thanks for the tip.
Guess you will have to just suck it and see like me too then lol! Just try and paint in the direction of the outlet, and use more thinner, is makes sense, may mean more coats, but should mean it flashes off much quicker too s;) ;) s;)
Indeed mate, just having to plough on with it and hope for the best. I hope you get it all finished off soon enough!
Quote from: "jonty"Indeed mate, just having to plough on with it and hope for the best. I hope you get it all finished off soon enough!
You should know by now.. a car is never 'finished' it maybe 'finished for now' lol
The 200sx is finished for now.
I still have sideskirts to prep and paint for the 2. I can see that being lots of fun :s good thing about sideskirts is that they are low down so you don't see the imperfections as much.
Hoping to get bumper finished this wknd. Although it probably won't be fitted until at least 2 weeks later. As I want the paint to be fully dry and not end up with fingerprints in it like I have experienced before s:o :o s:o
Then onto the skirts..
I was meaning the bumper is finished, not the car... I'm not naive about these things any more!
I was gonna give the bumper another rub down today but didn't get time, so I think rub tomorrow and paint Sunday as we are supposed to see a bit of sun s;) ;) s;)
In the mean time I took a few shots.. what do you think peeps! Yes I know the car is dirty, but still sexy s:) :) s:)
Sidelights with Halos
Sidelights halos and HIDs
Looks a lot whiter in reality. Photos make the light look blue for some reason.
i was going to run strip DRL's on the TS bumper, but i have fallen in love with these halo fogs, the main fog is actually SMD LED witha projector, so it will be blindingly bright. They will be bolted to the TS bumper s;) ;) s;)
Ok so update time.. I spent a few hours yesterday prepping.. and the high build primer in a few places..
Then after lots and lots of time spent getting it all nice and smooth today I hit it with some base. .
Then noticed this..
Fucking siht sbollox bollox sbollox wnak tawt cnut asre! !! s:x :x s:x :x:x:x:x:x:evil:
I don't think this bumper is destined to go on the car. Maybe I should just leave it til the summer now s:( :( s:(
doesnt look too bad if thats the only issue, you're never likely to get a perfect finish painting it in a gazebo. You should be able to fill them with stopper easily enough.
Any idea what has caused it? I'm no expert, and I'd like to know what to do to avoid getting these problems. That said, I agree with 'frootloops', it doesn't look too bad.
Quote from: "mxcum167"Any idea what has caused it? I'm no expert, and I'd like to know what to do to avoid getting these problems. That said, I agree with 'frootloops', it doesn't look too bad.
I know guys, it's just annoying because I am wet sanding so it takes ages to completely dry. I spent a long time prepping, thought it was ready then found something else.
This area was where the original spider Web crack looking thing appeared. So I flatted it all they way back then hit it with high build primer. Then today flatted the high build til it was smooth as silk.
The only thing I can think of is that the high build was not fully cured and for some reason reacted with the Base.
I am happy to hear from a some none who knows better?
i really wanted one of those bumpers but HZ had them out of stock and in the mean time I found a Genuine Toyota front lip with bumper and I am so pleased as what you are going through would make me so Pissed off!
amazing build and the headlights are the best I have seen so want them on my yellow 2
keep it up
s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "justinread72"i really wanted one of those bumpers but HZ had them out of stock and in the mean time I found a Genuine Toyota front lip with bumper and I am so pleased as what you are going through would make me so **** off!
amazing build and the headlights are the best I have seen so want them on my yellow 2
keep it up
s:D :D s:D
Thanks bud, you have made my day s:D :D s:D as for the TS bumper, I kinda wish I did what you did now. Although it will look great once finished it has brought back memories of how crap fibreglass products are. It also sits real low so I am going to lose the practicality of the car to a degree too! Even if I finish the bumper in the next week or so I think I may just leave it of the car until summer.
Keep going mate, it'll be worth it in the end. Especially with your time and dedication. I do like the headlights and though, yet another thing to add to my list. s:D :D s:D
The only thought that occurs to me is that maybe when you are reaching the end of the bumper it is an inch or two lower than the rest and maybe this extra distance is enough to cause a little bit of orange peel?
Its frustrating when you dont seem to be getting anywhere but if you build up the lacquer and flat back until its smooth it should polish up OK?
Hope you get a finish you are happy with soon!
Ok so today the plan was to wash the car then clean and re-proof the roof then lube up the rubbers/trims then clay bar and polish the car. A little ambitious lol!!
So I cleaned the roof with this stuff and then re proofed it
Scrubbed it with a sponge, washed away the cleaner, let it dry off then the re-proofer.
Then I moved the car out of the shade so it dries quicker and while moving it heard a massive sloshing sound s:o :o s:o
Put my hand down where the drains are and it was literally full!
Whipped off the vents, stuck a long thing cable tie up its ar5e! At least a litre of water came out of each side s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
One of the drains had lots of gunky stuff on it. Glad that's done now. All free flowing s:) :) s:) should smell less musty in the car now and let condensation too s;) ;) s;)
Anyway.. the roof dried but it looked a bit patchy at the front, although have to say i was loving the result already
So gave it another blast of re-proofer and wow! Like really.. wow!
Hi Guys, nothing major to update. Been using the car as a daily.
Changed the O ring on the oil tensioner last week.
I have celica 190 injectors and a maf riser to fit but I am putting it off as my 200 is off the road and I don't want to have issues with the mr2 as I don't have a backup car.
On a lighter note, more turbo parts have arrived..
Also got a T28R on standby s;) ;) s;)
I bought my wheels ages ago, but had planned to touch them up to make the mint. But i had so much stuff in the garage I thought bugger it, so tyres on and they are on the car now s:D :D s:D
Drove the car to work with new wheels on, what a difference! Love it!
Some guy behind me in a late Audi S3 had a bit of a surprise when he tried to over take me on a straight hahahahahha
Got 4 wheel alignment done today. Long overdue. When I changed the subframe I set the camber bolts so that the D washers were parallel to be D shaped indent in the subframe (of that makes sense). To my surprise the garage said that my rear alignment was only marginally out. The front was a lot worse. I did feel a pull to the left so I knew the front was troublesome. So here are the results:
I also got the front wheels balanced. £120 well spent, the car feels better. Well I am no longer trying to correct the steering wheel. Tyres should last a bit longer now; )
Quote from: "CrazySX"Got 4 wheel alignment done today. Long overdue. When I changed the subframe I set the camber bolts so that the D washers were parallel to be D shaped indent in the subframe (of that makes sense). To my surprise the garage said that my rear alignment was only marginally out. The front was a lot worse. I did feel a pull to the left so I knew the front was troublesome. So here are the results:
I also got the front wheels balanced. £120 well spent, the car feels better. Well I am no longer trying to correct the steering wheel. Tyres should last a bit longer now; )
Hi, when you changed your rear subframe, did you buy new or a good used one?
How long did it take? I love getting stuck into those sort of jobs, but its always good to get an idea of timescale from someone who has DIY 'd it!
I shall need to make sure I have sufficient time off work if I decide to do mine......
Keep it up bro. Waiting for the turbo pictures!
Quote from: "Cailsey"Quote from: "CrazySX"Got 4 wheel alignment done today. Long overdue. When I changed the subframe I set the camber bolts so that the D washers were parallel to be D shaped indent in the subframe (of that makes sense). To my surprise the garage said that my rear alignment was only marginally out. The front was a lot worse. I did feel a pull to the left so I knew the front was troublesome. So here are the results:
I also got the front wheels balanced. £120 well spent, the car feels better. Well I am no longer trying to correct the steering wheel. Tyres should last a bit longer now; )
Hi, when you changed your rear subframe, did you buy new or a good used one?
How long did it take? I love getting stuck into those sort of jobs, but its always good to get an idea of timescale from someone who has DIY 'd it!
I shall need to make sure I have sufficient time off work if I decide to do mine......
I bought a good second hand one. I refurbed it and then swapped it all out in one day. IIRC it took me about 6 hours. It wasn't the easiest job on the floor. But we'll worth it. Only advice I would give u is to make sure you use lots of penetrating fluid on all the bolts. Do this in intervals the weeks before doing the job. Makes it a lot easier. You will also need to undo the down pipe (3 amigos) so give them a good douse of penetrating fluid too!
It can be done quicker if you have an impact gun. I did mine all manually and some of those bolts were stiff buggers at every turn. My arms were pumped after and knackered the next day hahahaha
Oh and I bought a good used one and refurbed it and gave it some cavity wax too. Check a few pages back and you will see the whole process.
Quote from: "ommy92"Keep it up bro. Waiting for the turbo pictures!
Maybe a few months yet mate. I have been collecting bits, but at the moment I am redecorating my house. Then I need to do some work on my 200sx. Once that is all MOT'D again then the work on the 2 will commence. s;) ;) s;)
Ahahah i know, adults stuff must come first. So maybe i'm gonna do it before you, i'm also collecting parts s:P :P s:P
Quote from: "ommy92"Ahahah i know, adults stuff must come first. So maybe i'm gonna do it before you, i'm also collecting parts s:P :P s:P
Yep we all have to grow up unfortunately but boys will always be boys s:D :D s:D
I just made another step forward and bought a front mount intercooler kit.
Put a build thread up bud, be good to see what you are up to s;) ;) s;)
Its down there bro take a look. It's: "alfredo track focused blue mr2" thread
Front mount intercooler on a 2?
Or for the 200?
Quote from: "CrazySX"Oh and I bought a good used one and refurbed it and gave it some cavity wax too. Check a few pages back and you will see the whole process.
Thanks for that.
Down pipes should be fine as I did a manifold swap last month - and I'm a big fan of anti seize!!
I'll take a good look back in your thread to see how you went about it.
Cheers,
Quote from: "1979scotte"Front mount intercooler on a 2?
Or for the 200?
Well it's a front mount from another car that comes with a lot of bends and joins. I will rear mount it on a slant on my car like the Noble M12. Then try and build something around it so that air is channelled to it.
Here is some inspiration s;) ;) s;)
Or more relevantly on the 2:
That would be a Rear mount intercooler ahahah or bottom mount, anyway there's no difference, it's an intercooler. I suggest you use a chargecooler. It will keep your IAT lower, looks better, uses less space and could be cheaper.
Quote from: "ommy92"That would be a Rear mount intercooler ahahah or bottom mount, anyway there's no difference, it's an intercooler. I suggest you use a chargecooler. It will keep your IAT lower, looks better, uses less space and could be cheaper.
Exactly, but the kit i bought is a front mount for a Subaru. like this:
From what i have seen on a few cars the chargecooler takes up a lot of room in the engine bay and requires a lot more plumbing. I will see how this goes as i am not planning to run massive power. About 230-240 BHP will liven things up enough s:) :) s:)
How much did it cost to you? I think those pipes are good enough to make all the intake, using a little of creativity and cutting/grinding. Will you use a BOV?
I will at some stage swap my intercooler out for chargecooler.
You have to have a rad at the front with waterlines all along the car but your boost piping is much simplar.
The sp and tte turbo kits mount under the car on the passenger side.
Ardent posted up a good picture the other day showing it nicely.
Quote from: "ommy92"How much did it cost to you? I think those pipes are good enough to make all the intake, using a little of creativity and cutting/grinding. Will you use a BOV?
That's exactly what I mean! I managed to get it for 150 as it was being auctioned. Bargain!
Quote from: "1979scotte"I will at some stage swap my intercooler out for chargecooler.
You have to have a rad at the front with waterlines all along the car but your boost piping is much simplar.
The sp and tte turbo kits mount under the car on the passenger side.
Ardent posted up a good picture the other day showing it nicely.
You got a build thread up? What's the reason for changing from intercooler to chargecooler?
I have seen the TTE intercooler it's tiny! Lol! Ardent sent me the dimensions hence I am going for rear mount.
Damn good for 150 bucks
Quote from: "CrazySX"Quote from: "1979scotte"I will at some stage swap my intercooler out for chargecooler.
You have to have a rad at the front with waterlines all along the car but your boost piping is much simplar.
The sp and tte turbo kits mount under the car on the passenger side.
Ardent posted up a good picture the other day showing it nicely.
You got a build thread up? What's the reason for changing from intercooler to chargecooler?
I have seen the TTE intercooler it's tiny! Lol! Ardent sent me the dimensions hence I am going for rear mount.
It does the job if you only want around 230bhp. Unless my SP one is slightly bigger.
Main reason is shorter boost pipe, greater cooling for the size and its what people seem to do on MR2s.
Custom turbos off the top of my head that have charge coolers. Rich both Lees Tom and Nigel i think when he had it.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Quote from: "CrazySX"Quote from: "1979scotte"I will at some stage swap my intercooler out for chargecooler.
You have to have a rad at the front with waterlines all along the car but your boost piping is much simplar.
The sp and tte turbo kits mount under the car on the passenger side.
Ardent posted up a good picture the other day showing it nicely.
You got a build thread up? What's the reason for changing from intercooler to chargecooler?
I have seen the TTE intercooler it's tiny! Lol! Ardent sent me the dimensions hence I am going for rear mount.
It does the job if you only want around 230bhp. Unless my SP one is slightly bigger.
Main reason is shorter boost pipe, greater cooling for the size and its what people seem to do on MR2s.
Custom turbos off the top of my head that have charge coolers. Rich both Lees Tom and Nigel i think when he had it.
I never do stuff because other people do it or because its the done thing. I do it if its been tried and tested and i know it works, i know chargecoolers are efficient and small, but i don't like them. its a personal thing. As long as you have your intercooler positioned well and you have plenty of air channeled to it and of course the bigger the better, then it should be good for more power.
I mean if the Noble has one and it can make over 350hp then it must be effective.
How much power are you running? planning to run? I say if it works, leave it alone s:) :) s:)
Somewhere around the 230 mark.
I think the whole kit will be moved on when funds allow.
I would like to see somewhere around the 280 mark which this kit will never do.
And then im sure ill want more.
It would be cheaper to buy a boxster or an elise but thats not what i want.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Somewhere around the 230 mark.
I think the whole kit will be moved on when funds allow.
I would like to see somewhere around the 280 mark which this kit will never do.
And then I'm sure ill want more.
It would be cheaper to buy a boxster or an elise but thats not what i want.
So fully built engine or 2zz with turbo?
Standard will make 280 but you want a good map.
Quote from: "rbuckingham"Standard will make 280 but you want a good map.
I thought the 1zz had weak rods?
Yep they not the strongest but they will give more just it's pushing it a bit to much. In Oz there a 271 on a reliable map. Sadly its the box that can't take more than a safe 240torx.
Quote from: "rbuckingham"Yep they not the strongest but they will give more just it's pushing it a bit to much. In Oz there a 271 on a reliable map. Sadly its the box that can't take more than a safe 240torx.
That's good to know. What box is a good replacement on them?
My ST205 Chargecooler is meant to be ok to about 350bhp so will do me. I'd prefer an intercooler on a front engine car but a Chargecooler on a mid/rear engined car as you just don't get the airflow. Especially in a mk3 as the only room for a decent size intercooler is near the exhaust.
As for gearboxes the E153 is pretty bulletproof (seen them at 700bhp) but a little agricultural and very bulky/heavy. I know that is what Rich is planning and that's what I'm running.
Other drawback of e153 only 5 speed.
You can transplant in a 6 speed diesel box but its more tricky and no lighter.
Jubu make uprated gearsets too i think.
Thanks for the feedback guys.
Which cars are equipped with e153?
You can get a 6 speed version of the e153 as well just a bit costly. I got a 5 speed e153 as I'm on a tight budget, maybe one day I'll fit it lol
Quote from: "ommy92"Which cars are equipped with e153?
MR2 MK2 turbo amongst others.
I think its basically the same box that they used to rally the celica GT4 with but rwd instead of 4wd.
Tough as nails.
Lotus boys use them to.
There is also the S51??? Maybe which they use for lower power V6 swaps.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Quote from: "ommy92"Which cars are equipped with e153?
MR2 MK2 turbo amongst others.
I think its basically the same box that they used to rally the celica GT4 with but rwd instead of 4wd.
Tough as nails.
Lotus boys use them to.
There is also the S51??? Maybe which they use for lower power V6 swaps.
S54 is what the 1mz uses for the V6 swaps iirc. But I think that is already the Mk2 gearbox so could be wrong.
Edit: The S51 is from the Camry which is where the V6 comes from usually.
The s54 and e153 both from the mk2 just the e153 is a stronger box as it's from the turbo and the s54 is the Na box.
where do i look for the numbers?
Gearbox identification is by the clutch fork, please also not that an adapter plate is required to fit those boxes
sounds like too much work, i will stick to 240ish bhp s:) :) s:)
Power to weight it should be more fruity than the 200sx, as a daily car it should suffice s:D :D s:D
It will be great mate for sure.
I just have a hankering for a little more.
You can try mine sometime if you want to know what 230ish feels like in a 2.
Quote from: "1979scotte"It will be great mate for sure.
I just have a hankering for a little more.
You can try mine sometime if you want to know what 230ish feels like in a 2.
Thats very nice of you to offer bud, are you ever down my end? Kent is foreign lands for me lol!
I could give you a go in the 200sx in exchange so that you can experience 290bhp and 300lb and lighting up the tyres s;) ;) s;)
The only time i come your way is when i go to watch the rugby.
Sure we can sort something.
duplicated post
Quote from: "1979scotte"The only time i come your way is when i go to watch the rugby.
Sure we can sort something.
Well! just so happens i live around the corner from the stadium, so next time you go watch a match i might even let you park on my drive s;) ;) s;) hows that for an extra bonus! They normally charge around 20 quid upwards. extortionate.
PM me and i will send you my mobile number so we can organise. I know Rugby is a way off, but good to plan ahead.
Those lights look brilliant and the front bumper will look great when fitted, keep with it!
Quote from: "Logan"Those lights look brilliant and the front bumper will look great when fitted, keep with it!
Thanks Logan! I feel so useless at the moment, the weather is rubbish. The main objectives for this year are to get the 200sx sorted for MOT and then turbo the 2. So the cosmetics may have to take the back burner for a bit. If I spend very little time with the family, I guess I could get it all done. However that could end in divorce, so I think stopping at 2 turbo cars running and driving would be a good achievement for 2016 lol!
I'm lucky I have an underground car park to work in, still don't have the time to play at the moment with work though!
Just catching up here. All looking good mate.
You done anything more with the intercooler yet? I had/have the exact same idea and was thinking of mounting it as close to the engine lid vents as possible with the shortest pipes possible. I really suffer with lag on my current bottom flat mounted (no ideas why s:? :? s:? ) setup.
Quote from: "rbuckingham"Gearbox identification is by the clutch fork, please also not that an adapter plate is required to fit those boxes
Can you buy these somewhere?
Quote from: "Swan_Connery"Just catching up here. All looking good mate.
You done anything more with the intercooler yet? I had/have the exact same idea and was thinking of mounting it as close to the engine lid vents as possible with the shortest pipes possible. I really suffer with lag on my current bottom flat mounted (no ideas why s:? :? s:? ) setup.
Either your expectations are too high or there is something wrong.
Yours is an SP or TTET isnt it?
Mine pulls from 2500 rpm hits its stride by 3000.
Do you have a boost gauge?
EDIT
Sorry yours is a Hass.
Speaking out of turn again
Quote from: "Swan_Connery"Just catching up here. All looking good mate.
You done anything more with the intercooler yet? I had/have the exact same idea and was thinking of mounting it as close to the engine lid vents as possible with the shortest pipes possible. I really suffer with lag on my current bottom flat mounted (no ideas why s:? :? s:? ) setup.
Not yet bud. It's too cold and miserable out there and the 200sx is out of action. Collecting parts for the MR2 build. Then I wanna get the 200sx sorted (backup car) then start the mr2 conversion s;) ;) s;)
What sized turbo are you running? I was going to run a T28 but going for a T25 now for that very reason! The intercooler shouldn't cause that much lag.
So the time is getting closer, but i am getting a bit nervous that i may not have everything i need. So i made a list, need to make sure i have everything ticked before i start
Part Status
Turbo Y
Manifold Y
Intercooler Y
Induction piping Y
boost control Y
boost gauge N
water lines N
oil lines N
sump return Y
Injectors Y
AFR Gauge Y
Elbow N
down pipe N
oil sandwich plate N
Oil Pressure gauge N
Oil Temp Gauge N
ECU Y
Loom N
I think i have everything covered, have i missed anything obvious? i did miss the ECU originally hahahaha, hence its at the bottom!
Quote from: "CrazySX"So the time is getting closer, but i am getting a bit nervous that i may not have everything i need. So i made a list, need to make sure i have everything ticked before i start
Part Status
Turbo Y
Manifold Y
Intercooler Y
Induction piping Y
boost control Y
boost gauge N
water lines N
oil lines N
sump return Y
Injectors Y
AFR Gauge Y
Elbow N
down pipe N
oil sandwich plate N
Oil Pressure gauge N
Oil Temp Gauge N
ECU Y
Loom N
I think i have everything covered, have i missed anything obvious? i did miss the ECU originally hahahaha, hence its at the bottom!
bro i am selling my gauges. Take a look to private sales
Quote from: "CrazySX"What sized turbo are you running? I was going to run a T28 but going for a T25 now for that very reason! The intercooler shouldn't cause that much lag.
Gt28rs. Should have my intercooler mounted for the weekend!
What ecu u got?
Quote from: "ommy92"Quote from: "CrazySX"So the time is getting closer, but i am getting a bit nervous that i may not have everything i need. So i made a list, need to make sure i have everything ticked before i start
Part Status
Turbo Y
Manifold Y
Intercooler Y
Induction piping Y
boost control Y
boost gauge N
water lines N
oil lines N
sump return Y
Injectors Y
AFR Gauge Y
Elbow N
down pipe N
oil sandwich plate N
Oil Pressure gauge N
Oil Temp Gauge N
ECU Y
Loom N
I think i have everything covered, have i missed anything obvious? i did miss the ECU originally hahahaha, hence its at the bottom!
bro i am selling my gauges. Take a look to private sales
Thanks for the offer but I already have the pod and just looking for boost and oil as I have an AFR already.
Quote from: "Swan_Connery"Quote from: "CrazySX"What sized turbo are you running? I was going to run a T28 but going for a T25 now for that very reason! The intercooler shouldn't cause that much lag.
Gt28rs. Should have my intercooler mounted for the weekend!
What ecu u got?
I has a T28R s15 turbo, but recently got a T25 from a 300zx, I think it should be perfect for what I want as in midrange torque. At least for now :p
As for management I have a emanage blue which I used on the 200sx. Just need to get hold of a loom. At the moment I am thinking of making one up myself if it's cheap enough.
Well if my powerfc mapping goes well I'll have my emb and harness for sale. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "Swan_Connery"Well if my powerfc mapping goes well I'll have my emb and harness for sale. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
What EmB is it?
emanage blue with both harnesses
Quote from: "Swan_Connery"emanage blue with both harnesses
Is it plug and play for the MR2? I maybe interested pending price and if I can sell mine with my 200sx harness for the same/similar. Let me know when the time comes.
Some of my parts s:D :D s:D
Also cleaned and conditioned the seats today using gliptone
Twin turbo??!
Quote from: "jonty"Twin turbo??!
Stop giving me ideas lol! One T28r and one T25 s:) :) s:)
Oil and filter change done today at just over 4k miles since I bought it last April! Trip A tells me how many miles I get at each fill and Trip B was reset when I bought the car and left alone since.
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My 2zz injectors came back from SIMTEK today after being cleaned and tested. Here are the results:
Money well spent I say! They flow test, then clean then flow yes again and check spray pattern. As can be seen 2 of the injectors were only spraying out if 3 legs! s:o :o s:o
Good thing about getting them cleaned is that you get brand new O rings and insulators. These cost just over 20 quid at Mr T so all in all the cleaning only costs 50 quid when you think about it.
Anyway here is a pic of the injectors all built up:
And here is a pic of the old o rings, insulators and filters:
These injectors will go in with the maf mod and a nice HKS induction kit for now. I will most likely use these injectors on the turbo conversion anyway so worth the effort of changing them out.
More pics to follow once I get my finger out my bum and start the work. That is providing it doesn't rain today!!
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Ok... so... finger removed from bum!
So I changed the injectors over today. A few tips..
Make sure you remove the cross brace and the cam cover breather. Makes access a lot better.
Ensure you buy one of these: m http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 86&alt=web (http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=400985297286&alt=web) m
Before removing the old injectors, make sure u pull the fuel pump fuse and try start the car. This should release the pressure in the rail.
I didn't do this and fuel started spiss piss spiss ing out as soon as I got the fuel rail bolts loose. Still.. I didn't have much trouble getting the injectors out as they "popped" out lol!
Although not one of the insulators came out with an injector so I had to fish them out with the mirror and a small screwdriver.
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When fitting the replacement injectors put a bit of washing up liquid on the insulators and push them in nice with a twisting action.
Then washing up liquid on the O rings and pop the rail back on. You will hear a reassuring noise when it seats good.
Oh and before putting the new injectors in make sure you clean the holes out. I couldn't get a carb cleaner can down there so did this with some hose I had laying around
Then point it towards the holes and shoot! And end up with this:
Bonus shot:
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So anyway, apart from the awkwardness of the job, the injectors are very easy to swap out. A lot easier than on my 200sx. Took me about an hour including cleaning.
I then moved on to fitting the induction kit. I removed all the old stuff and decided to clean the throttle body. Went from this:
To this:
To this:
To this:
I used most of the can of carb cleaner.
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Then I spent ages faffing around with re assembling and positioning the induction kit correctly.
Then realised the screws that came with the maf riser wouldn't thread into my induction kit so spent ages looking for ones that would!!
Anyway.. end result:
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So I put the fuses back in and started the car. It took a few goes and when it eventually started it was coughing and farting and stinking and smoking! That's what half a can of carb cleaner will do you!
Once it settled I took it for a spin and power is now effortless!
Idles real nice too!
Will stick some super in it tomorrow and see if it's any good.
Still needs a turbo badly!
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That filter is gonna pick a lot of heat over here. Why don't you place it behind the battery Waiting for the turbo?
Quote from: "Baloo"That filter is gonna pick a lot of heat over here. Why don't you place it behind the battery Waiting for the turbo?
It was running a little hot and the maf mod didn't like it so went back to stock and sold it at 20 quid loss s:cry: :cry: s:cry:
Yes this was only supposed to be a temp measure until turbo time. At least the injectors are all done s;) ;) s;)
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I'm booked in for a map with my powerfc tomorrow. All going well my Emange blue will be up for sale if you're still interested mate.
Also, thought about battery relocation? That's my next mod to improve air into the engine bay.
Who's mapping your PowerFC? Andy Forrest?
No. Chris at Dynatune.
Hey guys, haven't updated here in a while as I have been busy welding on the 200sx then my house refurb started.
In that time I have had some dents removed. Thanks to Simon for setting up ding day s;) ;) s;)
Today I fitted one of these..
And got this coming in the post..
My pikey alternative to the markii pipe until the turbo goes on s;) ;) s;)
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Also bought Mark's emb so now I have 2 lol!
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When's it all going together then Dan?
Anticipation and all that
Hey Lee, at this rate never!!! Lol.
Went for MOT today and it failed on emissions. I think it's because of the MAF mod and the car running rich so CO and HC are through the roof. But after some hard revving there was also smoke coming out the exhausts not clouds but a little. Oil burning I suspect. My plan was to turbo it next year. Might have to get a better engine, change it, then turbo it.
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Ok so been a busy day. Changed the rear drivers side caliper, and rear discs and pads. Also fitted my braided lines!
Then bled all the brakes and fitted one way bleed nipples.
Couldn't fit the front braided lines at the nut would not give. Any tips???
Also reverted back to 1zz injectors and scrapped the MAF riser. I think it was a waste of time!
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Great news. All my hard work paid off. Got my MOT today with no advisories!!!
The brakes are so good now. Glad it was picked up at MOT.
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Just a quick update for now..
Remember those cloudy yellow headlights that I rubbed down and lacquered?
Over a year later and here they are
As clear as the day I did them s;) ;) s;)
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Little update. Did this in the spiss piss spiss ing rain today. They are mazda ones and had to be modified a little s;) ;) s;)
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Dials look good mate, what's the score with your engine and turbo plan timetable then?
Quote from: "jonty"Dials look good mate, what's the score with your engine and turbo plan timetable then?
Will be doing it this year. Just waiting for the weather to cheer up before I begin work. Got most of the bits.
Just had major surgery to do on the 200sx and a major house renovation last year lol
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Yeah house and other projects get in the way! Keep us informed of progress, always helps inspire me to do stiff myself
Quote from: "jonty"Yeah house and other projects get in the way! Keep us informed of progress, always helps inspire me to do stiff myself
Have you seen my project thread on sxoc? s;) ;) s;)
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Sorry mate, I missed you're comment, I went and found tour thread on sxoc but then got called away on parent duties before I had a look... Marked on Tapatalk though so I'll have a look when I have a chance!
Ok guys.. it's been a while but a few things have happened in that time.
New roof happened Saturday 5th August
Also had some slightly bad news.. I was made redundant from work s:( :( s:(
However every cloud.. I am officially going to start the turbo conversion!!!
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Sorry to hear about your redundancy but very glad to hear the turbo is going to happen!
Quote from: "mikek"Sorry to hear about your redundancy but very glad to hear the turbo is going to happen!
It's been too long! I had too much going on. Total refurb of my house and lots of work on the 200sx. Feel lame for having a thread called turbo project hahahaha!
If you want to see some of my handy work with the 200sx you can have a look here.
m http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=583688 (http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=583688) m
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Are you bringing it on Saturday?
Quote from: "mikek"Are you bringing it on Saturday?
Yes.. 200sx Saturday bud. Want a race? [emoji14]
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Nope, not in a straight line anyway! Passenger ride might be good though!
Quote from: "mikek"Nope, not in a straight line anyway! Passenger ride might be good though!
Lol! I will We do take you out for a ride.
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Adjusted my handbrake and it's good as gold!
https://youtu.be/dw8BbpRsSbo enjoy! Hope it helps a few people.
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I like those heater control dials, what model of Mazda do they come from and what mods to them did you do to make them fit please?
Quote from: steeleyscoot on February 11, 2018, 20:49
I like those heater control dials, what model of Mazda do they come from and what mods to them did you do to make them fit please?
Thanks bud. They were for a Mazda 6 I think, but then I found these https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F162177985527
Cheap as chips and direct fit. Just pull out the old and push in the new :)
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Think they're the same as mine.
Bit more modern.
Hi guys, quick update time.
My brakes on the passenger side started making a horrible grinding sound so took a look and :o
Sept 2015 vs June 2018
Time for discs and pads I think.
Think is there is about 50% meat still on the pads. Should I just change the discs?
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Oh and they are pagid discs. Rotten to shite. Think I will go for brembos this time. Or do you think u expect too much?? Lol
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I haven't been on here for a while as FB is just easier, plus I haven't done much to the car since the brakes.
As some of you probably know, I have started a youtube channel. Check it out here https://www.youtube.com/user/Danny4q
and look out for my MR2 videos.
https://youtu.be/0sNdq1mTPWw
https://youtu.be/TNSGlb1G-YU
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I came across your videos the other day. Good stuff! Keep at it
Quote from: shnazzle on January 25, 2019, 14:52
I came across your videos the other day. Good stuff! Keep at it
Thanks Pat! Hopefully they will be useful and entertaining lol
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Dan, I really enjoyed watching these. Thanks. :)
Quote from: Chilli Girl on January 25, 2019, 17:48
Dan, I really enjoyed watching these. Thanks. :)
Glad u like them. I am trying to get better and keep them engaging. The 370z one was the first one, u can probably tell lol! Got another special car to reveal soon so make sure you're subscribed. And when I do the turbo conversion it will also be on there ;)
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Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:29
Quote from: Chilli Girl on January 25, 2019, 17:48
Dan, I really enjoyed watching these. Thanks. :)
Glad u like them. I am trying to get better and keep them engaging. The 370z one was the first one, u can probably tell lol! Got another special car to reveal soon so make sure you're subscribed. And when I do the turbo conversion it will also be on there ;)
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You better!
I think a lot of people are crying out for a step by step turbo how to video
Quote from: shnazzle on January 25, 2019, 19:47
Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:29
Quote from: Chilli Girl on January 25, 2019, 17:48
Dan, I really enjoyed watching these. Thanks. :)
Glad u like them. I am trying to get better and keep them engaging. The 370z one was the first one, u can probably tell lol! Got another special car to reveal soon so make sure you're subscribed. And when I do the turbo conversion it will also be on there ;)
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You better!
I think a lot of people are crying out for a step by step turbo how to video
I will. I have most of the parts now. I will probably need a little help along the way too lol
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Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:48
Quote from: shnazzle on January 25, 2019, 19:47
Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:29
Quote from: Chilli Girl on January 25, 2019, 17:48
Dan, I really enjoyed watching these. Thanks. :)
Glad u like them. I am trying to get better and keep them engaging. The 370z one was the first one, u can probably tell lol! Got another special car to reveal soon so make sure you're subscribed. And when I do the turbo conversion it will also be on there ;)
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You better!
I think a lot of people are crying out for a step by step turbo how to video
I will. I have most of the parts now. I will probably need a little help along the way too lol
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You know where to ask ;)
I think @Dan944 has the most successful home-built kit, from scratch.
And then there's the oldies on here like @spit @ChrisGB @loadswine who know a thing or two about turbo builds :)
Awww thanks pat ;)
Always happy to help. It's easy once you get the old stuff off.
Quote from: shnazzle on January 25, 2019, 19:55
Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:48
Quote from: shnazzle on January 25, 2019, 19:47
Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:29
Quote from: Chilli Girl on January 25, 2019, 17:48
Dan, I really enjoyed watching these. Thanks. :)
Glad u like them. I am trying to get better and keep them engaging. The 370z one was the first one, u can probably tell lol! Got another special car to reveal soon so make sure you're subscribed. And when I do the turbo conversion it will also be on there ;)
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You better!
I think a lot of people are crying out for a step by step turbo how to video
I will. I have most of the parts now. I will probably need a little help along the way too lol
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You know where to ask ;)
I think @Dan944 has the most successful home-built kit, from scratch.
And then there's the oldies on here like @spit @ChrisGB @loadswine who know a thing or two about turbo builds :)
And you for some Emanage blue maps? The ECU is the thing that's holding me back the most (I am nervous about) the rest doesn't bother me.
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Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:58
Quote from: shnazzle on January 25, 2019, 19:55
Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:48
Quote from: shnazzle on January 25, 2019, 19:47
Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:29
Quote from: Chilli Girl on January 25, 2019, 17:48
Dan, I really enjoyed watching these. Thanks. :)
Glad u like them. I am trying to get better and keep them engaging. The 370z one was the first one, u can probably tell lol! Got another special car to reveal soon so make sure you're subscribed. And when I do the turbo conversion it will also be on there ;)
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You better!
I think a lot of people are crying out for a step by step turbo how to video
I will. I have most of the parts now. I will probably need a little help along the way too lol
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
You know where to ask ;)
I think @Dan944 has the most successful home-built kit, from scratch.
And then there's the oldies on here like @spit @ChrisGB @loadswine who know a thing or two about turbo builds :)
And you for some Emanage blue maps? The ECU is the thing that's holding me back the most (I am nervous about) the rest doesn't bother me.
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To be honest, Dan's the man for that as well as he ran an emanage on his turbo and it ran rather well!
Good to know! Dan's are the best at these things :p
Quote from: shnazzle on January 25, 2019, 21:32
Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:58
Quote from: shnazzle on January 25, 2019, 19:55
Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:48
Quote from: shnazzle on January 25, 2019, 19:47
Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:29
Quote from: Chilli Girl on January 25, 2019, 17:48
Dan, I really enjoyed watching these. Thanks. :)
Glad u like them. I am trying to get better and keep them engaging. The 370z one was the first one, u can probably tell lol! Got another special car to reveal soon so make sure you're subscribed. And when I do the turbo conversion it will also be on there ;)
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You better!
I think a lot of people are crying out for a step by step turbo how to video
I will. I have most of the parts now. I will probably need a little help along the way too lol
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
You know where to ask ;)
I think @Dan944 has the most successful home-built kit, from scratch.
And then there's the oldies on here like @spit @ChrisGB @loadswine who know a thing or two about turbo builds :)
And you for some Emanage blue maps? The ECU is the thing that's holding me back the most (I am nervous about) the rest doesn't bother me.
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To be honest, Dan's the man for that as well as he ran an emanage on his turbo and it ran rather well!
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Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 21:33
Good to know! Dan's are the best at these things :pQuote from: shnazzle on January 25, 2019, 21:32
Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:58
Quote from: shnazzle on January 25, 2019, 19:55
Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:48
Quote from: shnazzle on January 25, 2019, 19:47
Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:29
Quote from: Chilli Girl on January 25, 2019, 17:48
Dan, I really enjoyed watching these. Thanks. :)
Glad u like them. I am trying to get better and keep them engaging. The 370z one was the first one, u can probably tell lol! Got another special car to reveal soon so make sure you're subscribed. And when I do the turbo conversion it will also be on there ;)
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You better!
I think a lot of people are crying out for a step by step turbo how to video
I will. I have most of the parts now. I will probably need a little help along the way too lol
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
You know where to ask ;)
I think @Dan944 has the most successful home-built kit, from scratch.
And then there's the oldies on here like @spit @ChrisGB @loadswine who know a thing or two about turbo builds :)
And you for some Emanage blue maps? The ECU is the thing that's holding me back the most (I am nervous about) the rest doesn't bother me.
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To be honest, Dan's the man for that as well as he ran an emanage on his turbo and it ran rather well!
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speak to John (jvanzyl) as he has my maps. I basically used spyderlee s map and tweeked it for 670 injectors.
Quote from: dan944 on January 25, 2019, 21:35
Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 21:33
Good to know! Dan's are the best at these things :pQuote from: shnazzle on January 25, 2019, 21:32
Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:58
Quote from: shnazzle on January 25, 2019, 19:55
Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:48
Quote from: shnazzle on January 25, 2019, 19:47
Quote from: CrazySX on January 25, 2019, 19:29
Quote from: Chilli Girl on January 25, 2019, 17:48
Dan, I really enjoyed watching these. Thanks. :)
Glad u like them. I am trying to get better and keep them engaging. The 370z one was the first one, u can probably tell lol! Got another special car to reveal soon so make sure you're subscribed. And when I do the turbo conversion it will also be on there ;)
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
You better!
I think a lot of people are crying out for a step by step turbo how to video
I will. I have most of the parts now. I will probably need a little help along the way too lol
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
You know where to ask ;)
I think @Dan944 has the most successful home-built kit, from scratch.
And then there's the oldies on here like @spit @ChrisGB @loadswine who know a thing or two about turbo builds :)
And you for some Emanage blue maps? The ECU is the thing that's holding me back the most (I am nervous about) the rest doesn't bother me.
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
To be honest, Dan's the man for that as well as he ran an emanage on his turbo and it ran rather well!
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
speak to John (jvanzyl) as he has my maps. I basically used spyderlee s map and tweeked it for 670 injectors.
Thanks Dan, will do!
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ok guys, as some of you may know, my Exhaust flexi has gone, and the car now sounds aweful. I think this is a sign from god for me to start the turbo conversion, so i will be starting it just as soon as we get some decent weather. Parts list as below: Let me know if i have missed anything
Part Type Got it? Priority
Turbo T28 T28 (200sx) Y High
Intercooler and Pipes Subaru Impreza (Japspeed) Y High
Turbo elbow ? N High
Turbo Downpipe ? N High
Turbo oil and water pipes Mamba Y High
Turbo Drain Stock 200sx Y High
Turbo return for sump ? Y High
new sump Ebay Y Medium
MAF mount Subaru Impreza (Japspeed) Y High
AFR gauge Innovate / Bosch Y Medium
Oil Filter Sandwich plate Ebay Y High
Boost Gauge Y Medium
Oil Temp N Low
Oil Pressure N Low
ECU Emanage Blue Y High
Injectors VXR 470cc Y High
Gauge Holder Ebay Y Low
Boost Controller HKS EVC 3 Y Medium
Turbo Manifold Mamba Y High
Manifold to head Gasket Ebay Y High
Manifold to Turbo gaskets, nuts and locking washers Mamba Y High
T pieces for Water lines in car (check diameter) N High
BOV Nissan 200sx Stock Y High
Induction kit Apexi N High
Colder plugs BKR7EIX? NGK N High
Vacuum Pipes (BOV/Actuator/Bpost Controller) Ebay (EVAC) Y High
Change Radiator Ebay Y Medium
Coolant OAT Not Sure Yet N High
One Way Check Valve Crank Breater and PCV Not Sure Yet N Medium
Wide Band Sensor Boss Not Sure Yet N Medium
RTV for sump N High
OK guys, the time has finally come!! nearly 5 years after my first post about turbo charging the mr2, its happening!
Everything i had for the car, bar the oil\water lines, gaskets, manifold and turbo were wrong!
I ordered a new intercooler and pipes, airfilter. Oh BOV should work, i had that and have a few other bits too.
I wish it was easier to post pics here. I am Dan Chan on the FB groups and will be putting up a video on my channel with the Turbo install as soon as i have the car running.
I will also be putting up a radiater install vid and rear bumper removal video very soon.
Hi All, i think most of you are on teh FB group, but for anyone who wants an update, my car is now turbo'd!! I need to change the clutch, but it feels super strong, and i am well happy! lots of stuff still needs wrapping up, but in the main its all done.
Check out the videos on Youtube,i tried to include as much detail as o coould do so that if any of you lot want to do it then yu have a point of reference.
my channel:
https://www.youtube.com/c/ModorFix/videos?view_as=subscriber
Turbo Vids
Part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Mr161nfL0I&t=664s&ab_channel=ModorFix
Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D_1wkxJkHg&t=206s&ab_channel=ModorFix
Part 3 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Juz3C6_zlA&ab_channel=ModorFix
Part 4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9D-TYtiI4g&t=958s&ab_channel=ModorFix
Part 5 to come soon!
Any videos yet of letting her rip? :)
Quote from: shnazzle on November 23, 2020, 21:36Any videos yet of letting her rip? :)
Need to get a clutch in before I do that, but even with a slipping clutch you can feel the power. Maybe i should do some vids on the stock clutch ;)
Quote from: CrazySX on November 23, 2020, 22:31Quote from: shnazzle on November 23, 2020, 21:36Any videos yet of letting her rip? :)
Need to get a clutch in before I do that, but even with a slipping clutch you can feel the power. Maybe u should do some vids on the stock clutch ;)
... Just no call for that...
:)