Looking for a decent guide as I have to get this done ASAP. I've found a couple of guides regarding transmission removal but nothing on doing the actual clutch.
Mine's a 6 speed FL car. Also noticed that you have to unbolt the three amigos.... That was fun last time I did it s:evil: :evil: s:evil: Would a new gasket not be needed here?
I've had an engine out of a roadster before but I've not done a clutch so no idea if I'm meant to use a special tool to centre it etc.? Does anything need doing to the flywheel itself etc.?
I did mine about 1 year ago. Dropped the box off the car, not difficult but a little time consuming. I followed guides on the internet and took my time working alone.
Get the clutch lined up and the box back on was a challenge and i used a draper scissor gearbox jack, great bit of kit working on gearboxes
Mark
Nice. Did you use a special tool to centre the clutch?
I'm going to write something up following two clutch changes I just did with mulaz.
It's definitely doable but it's worth knowing a few little snag points.
I bought a universal clutch alignment tool. because the 6 speed is a little longer its pretty close to the chassis rail so its tight getting it back onto the engine.
Worth Buying one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500-kg-Engine-Support-Double-Beam-Bar-Stand-Motor-Lifting-Gearbox-Garage-Tool-/332089810530?
will make the job safer and easier £36 off ebay
[attachment=0:2u3vpxjs] ia0 s-l1600.jpg ia0 [/attachment:2u3vpxjs]
[Mod note] The following post was made further along in this thread. Copied here as an added precaution
QuotePlease Please PLEASE be very wary of buying that particular support from that seller. Mate had that one and it buckled. luckily no damage was done and no one was hurt. I'll see if he still has the pics
He was only pulling an RX8 Engine (less than 1/3 of the advertised safe weight)
Cheers folks. I've got an engine hoist which I plan to use to lift and lower the gearbox. Sounds like I'll have to support the engine on the oil pan close to the gearbox with a jack. Not too pleased at the idea of that....
I am hoping to make a start on this tomorrow. Reading various things, it looks as though I can leave the axle nut in place, unbolt the control arms (bit worried about these being a sbastard bastard sbastard !) and leave the 3 amigos bolted up.
What I'm not sure about is the thing I keep seeing about dremeling the engine mount to remove the clutch slave cylinder. I don't really want to do this, nor do I have a dremel. Can I remove it another way? I don't mind having to bleed it.
As luck would have it, I have 2 bottles of Redline MT90 that I never used on my previous MR2 to hand. I understand the 6 speed takes a tad more so I'll have to reuse a tiny amount of old oil s:( :( s:(
Can I just pry the end of the driveshaft out of the box on the nearside? Do I not need to pry anything out on the other side, as I haven't seen that mentioned anywhere?
All these questions will be answered when I type it up haha
Hoist on the engine. Jack on the tranny.
Leave axle nut. Take nearside wheel off.
Unbolt arms, 3 amigos, and remove engine mounts.
Slave cylinder comes off with engine mount. No need to dremel at all. Silly idea.
No need for bleeding anything.
In a nutshell:
- drop gear oil
- support engine on lift/bar mulaz mentioned or the like
- remove intake, throttle body pipe and battery+tray.
- free gear link cables and undo wires connected to tranny
- remove 3 amigos.
- disconnect all arm on nearside
- remove brace bar from strut arm to crossmember
- remove clutch slave cyl
- undo started motor
- remove front and rear middle engine mounts and nearside engine mount (can leave the left mount bracket on the car)
- tap out nearside output drive shaft
-drop engine until about 15 degrees or so
- support tranny on jack
- remove all tranny bolts
- remove tranny. Watch drive shaft oil seals! Better off replacing for the sake of 20 quid.
If you're going to have it typed up by tomorrow lunchtime I'll stop asking s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Can't remember how the driveshaft on the offside goes into the box now. Am I having to watch an oil seal there as well as the nearside? When you say tapout the driveshaft, do you mean with a pry bar/big screwdriver?
Have to have a look and see if I can remember where to attach the hoist.
How exactly do you centre the clutch properly? I'll be looking for a universal centering tool tomorrow morning but I like to feel that I have a good idea before I start a job like this. Sorry for all the questions. s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
The clips that hold the two gear selector cables to the top of the gearbox housing are a pain to remove and also refit
worth ordering 2 new ones from MR T. part 90468-04190 only a couple quid each
Quote from: "mulaz"The clips that hold the two gear selector cables to the top of the gearbox housing are a pain to remove and also refit
worth ordering 2 new ones from MR T. part 90468-04190 only a couple quid each
+1 to that. I ended up knackering a selector cable, cost alot more than these clips would have done s:( :( s:(
This guide was pretty useful, only a couple of very minor mistakes/omissions:
m http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread ... on-Removal (http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?35596-HOW-TO-5-speed-Manual-Transmission-Removal) m
Mine took about 5 hours out, and the same back in (with plenty of coffee and swear breaks), first time ever on a transverse engine. Good luck!!
I've given myself a few days just in case! I have both encountered those clips before AND snapped the casing on a shifter cable. I'm quite worried about these in all honestly.
In two minds about ordering an oil seal for the box. Last time I replaced one was on a MK2 Turbo and it was a ballache s:D :D s:D
I'd only need to replace the one on the nearside, correct?
Depends how lucky/careful you are. I'd replace them anyway. Mine was in an absolute state. I'm surprised it held oil. And yes it was an absolute pig to get out
The clips are a pain but really not that bad if you approach it right. The clips can easily be re-used. They can't be re-used if you hack the crap out of it. But it's more likely that any hacking will happen when you put it back, which would be 6 and 2x3 if you get a new one of re-use.
The main issue is access. Plan access well, find the best place to whack it with an extension and a plastic hammer, and eventually it just pops in.
So would you be replacing both sides? Or just nearside? Should be easy enough to fit a replacement with the box off the car, but would have to be careful not to damage it when reinserting the driveshaft.
Both sides. I had to replace only the nearside. But it's a perishable seal, so why not repalce both? I wish now that I had done the offside one as well.
I was careful to aim to the middle when puttign the driveshaft back in and it still leaked. So, it's quite sensitive. What you don't want is what I had...expensive MT90 leaking out.
Good way through the guide now s:) :) s:)
Aye that's definitely not something I want!
I think my biggest worry there is changing the seals, then damaging the new ones putting the shafts back in. Not even sure how you get the offside shaft out.
Will there be a mention of that I your write up?
There can be.
Just be careful putting it in is all. Take time. When aligning the box, make sure you don't push the tranny back onto the offside shaft until it's centered and will NOT hit the seal.
Same with the drive shaft. Don't flop the shaft in like you're on a one-night stand. Line it up, aim it, slowly put it in.
Haha will do.
Well I've just rang MR T about the parts, they won't have them until Friday. I have to get this done by Sunday evening and was going to start today but may as well start early tomorrow now, get the box out etc. and have everything ready to go back in. Pick the seals up Friday morning and crack on. Got the weekend for contingency then.
Don't forget to drpo the oil s:) :) s:)
Absolutely!
Can anyone tell me what you get extra in the transaxle overhaul kit, 04331-12140, as opposed to just buying the oil seals for slightly less?
l viewtopic.php?f=47&t=61540 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=61540) l
No pics yet and it's unedited. I'm sure I've forgotten something. mulaz or someone else will help s:) :) s:)
Great work! This will really help. I've managed to arrange to get the bits tomorrow now so I'll start the job tomorrow morning. Take it nice and slow.
What's the procedure for putting a seal in, tap gently in with a socket? Does the gearbox just pull off of the o/s shaft? Going to go and read up on your guide now s:D :D s:D
Christ just had a read through the how to, that's some going lads, well done
Thanks. We did a fair bit of learning to get to that. I can't reiterate enough what a difference it makes having a professional tool monkey at your side with work like this.
The same way I know core concepts of IT, management and business and can offer a lot of insight anybody starting in those fields... Ian really brought a hell of a lot to the table.
So I'd say, if youre going to tackle this for the first time,do it with someone who knows.
Right I am part way through this. It's going very slowly!
I have removed the battery, airbox, taken the shift cables off the pins and have started taking bolts out of the gearbox housing now. However, I haven't been able to get anything in to release the U clips on the shift cables so they're still attached.
Anybody able to offer any tips? There's just too much pipework in the way. My current plan is to try and get to them again after lowering the engine down a bit.....
Dont remember it being difficult, I think I used a screwdriver to prise the clip up. Can you gain access from below to push them up?
This is nature of car work mate. 90% of the time there is crap in the way. Well-placed and measured force and use tools. You can get to them.
You don't gain much more space when it's dropped, but it does help a bit.
Are you sure you've bent those pins back? Without that, they're never coming out
Aye I know. I've been here before but it was a long time ago. I just couldn't get in, then had a brainwave; a trim removal tool. It's basically a hook with a T handle. Did the job easily s:) :) s:)
Now I'm just trying to figure out how to suspend the engine as I don't have an eye on the rear in the middle. The intake manifold is there and there's nowhere to wrap a strap. I'll get it done if it's the last thing I do but I'm so bloody cautious these days everything takes ages!
Oh and I've discovered A. I need a new subframe and B. I need to treat rust on the underside just in front of the rear wheels. Awesome!
Actually, I might be able to wrap a strap right under just before the engine and gearbox meet. I think the proud bits on the bottom might keep the strap off the oil pan.
Back out I go.....
Right, anyone know where the other starter bolt is? Found this one:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/jamesc1982/Mobile%20Uploads/8c8b4219-195c-49a3-b9a4-93b8156e3462.jpg)
I believe there's another to remove?
Decided to pick this up in the morning when I can carry on in daylight rather than spend tonight struggling.
Right, back at it!
Do I have to unbolt the front suspension arm at the rear, that one that also seems to have a sort of brace attached to it? I'm guessing that's one of the ones mentioned in the how to but just double checking.
Let's hope the extra night of plus gas will have helped!
Anyone know if this should bash out or if I'm meant to unbolt it?
Either way, it sure doesn't want to move!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/jamesc1982/Mobile%20Uploads/20170203_125841.jpg)
Bash
(http://i.imgur.com/hhTINHX.png)
(http://i.imgur.com/g50MbV7.png)
Haha love that.
OK well I've been tentatively giving it some lump hammer but wasn't sure that was the correct method!
I'll get into it properly now I know.
Well the end of the bolt is crushed and the sfuck fuck sfuck er is not moving. No amount of bashing is shifting it. Bit stumped at the moment.
I ended up dropping the other end of the bar, then using the bar as leverage. New cam bolts weren't too expensive from Mr T...
Quote from: "Fin"I ended up dropping the other end of the bar, then using the bar as leverage. New cam bolts weren't too expensive from Mr T...
The ball joint end? I'm seriously considering having a go at that. Can't believe I'm being stopped by one bolt!
Undone the ball joint end piece of spiss piss spiss . FFS.
At least I know not to bother wasting time on those arms when I replace the subframe. Anyone know the thread pitch of those camber bolts? Need to recut the end of this one.
Box is out. Wish I'd left the oil seals alone though as they were perfect and trying to get the nearside one out is impossible. It's bent my best Halfords screwdriver. No signs of it coming out. And now it's raining.
Quote from: "mulaz"Worth Buying one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500-kg-Engine-Support-Double-Beam-Bar-Stand-Motor-Lifting-Gearbox-Garage-Tool-/332089810530?
will make the job safer and easier £36 off ebay
s-l1600.jpg
Please Please
PLEASE be very wary of buying that particular support from that seller. Mate had that one and it buckled. luckily no damage was done and no one was hurt. I'll see if he still has the pics
He was only pulling an RX8 Engine (less than 1/3 of the advertised safe weight)
Christ!
Well the second seal is out. What an absolute sbastard bastard sbastard .
Quote from: "Essex2Visuvesi"Quote from: "mulaz"Worth Buying one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500-kg-Engine-Support-Double-Beam-Bar-Stand-Motor-Lifting-Gearbox-Garage-Tool-/332089810530?
will make the job safer and easier £36 off ebay
s-l1600.jpg
Please Please PLEASE be very wary of buying that particular support from that seller. Mate had that one and it buckled. luckily no damage was done and no one was hurt. I'll see if he still has the pics
He was only pulling an RX8 Engine (less than 1/3 of the advertised safe weight)
Hmm... That's very worrying. Ian's never seemed to give at all
Maybe he just got a bad one... I guess we just need to be wary
never believe any quoted lifting limits for any cheap Chinese products but i think he got a bad one as the one i have is excellent value and well made.
we hardly put any load on the engine support frame when dropping a 25kg gearbox and i would still rather use this than ratchet straps than around the engine bay cross member as other have done
Failure sometimes comes with quality too. i have seen a £250,000 crane fail when lifting well in it's safe SWL
Well the gearbox went back on last night but there's a fair bit of work left to finish the job this morning.
I absolutely couldn't baby the offside oil seal. It was a horrendous job getting everything lined up. Just have to hope it wasn't damaged.
Shnazzle's guide mentioned the clutch cover plate only fitting one way. I've either got lucky or that's not the case with the Exedy. It was pretty symmetrical but I did attempt to put it on what I perceived to be the same way as the stock item. Torqued all the nuts up then went around them all once or twice and checked again. I know they're fine, but I'm still paranoid they're not!
Did you manage to get the Toe adjusting bolt out?
Nah I gave up and removed it at the ball joint end. I'm replacing the subframe soon so that sbastard bastard sbastard can go with it!
Everything has been fine since reassembly. I can't believe how light the clutches are on these though. I get into my Subaru and it suddenly feels like the pedal in there is rick solid!