Hi folks
Since I can't leave well alone, figured I'd start recording what I've done/am doing to my car. I'll add to the list here and keep a bit of a log of the titivating and steady 'improvements' I make.
So here goes, I have a Red edition 05 facelift Sable grey Roadster without AC. Foolishly trekked down to Birmingham after being drawn in by a well presented advert and low price to find a somewhat battered but mechanically and structurally sound Red edition facelift and was immediately taken by the potential of the car. I haggled a bit and got a good deal but inherited a decent list of small jobs. I later found out the car had outstanding finance and was a cat d write-off but it didn't worry me. Stripped the front and rear ends to find the offending damage, only cosmetic and tidied it up, repaired a few bits etc. She isn't the cleanest car but she's a looker and a hard worker and I always enjoy coming out to see her so I'm chuffed.
Had the car nearly 7 months now and also have a JDM PFL 5 speed LSD ex track car that needs an engine refresh and has become a parts/project car. It's how I found my FL while looking for a replacement engine or parts car and ended up swapping their roles. I have other plans for the project car so will keep that out of this thread.
"Red" has the following mods:
- front and side TTE spats/skirts.
- TTE silencer
- modified PPE headers, shortened collector and larger fixed flange outlet plus twin lambda bungs in cyl 2&4.
- custom fabricated link pipe.
- shortened AEM intake into near side scoop with dry AEM filter.
- new PCV valve.
- apparently TTE springs on stock dampers, hopefully correcting soon with the right stuff.
- gear linkage bearing kit, wonderful!
- MSW multi-spoke diamond cut black alloys, 16x7j et38. Perfect fit in the arches and no rubbing except the damper that has destroyed its bump stop...
- Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance tyres, 205/50R16. Stick like proverbial on a shovel, lighter and comfier than those blasted Toyos everyone seems to fit...
Corolla TSport 16" rims with 195/55r16 winter tyres. My 2 goes anywhere, rain, sleet or snow!
- Sony double din head unit, Pioneer app radio waiting or possibly a tablet.
- Vibe slick 6.5" components in doors.
- pioneer 10" slim sub waiting to move under dash. Under dash sub ybox trialled and template made for larger enclosure to house the 10" sub.
- Kenwood 4-3-2 amp to drive components and bridged to sub.
- tecsound 50 damping to go in doors and anywhere else that can't handle the vibes...
- PFL red leather seats - looking for a facelift red leather interior...
- red soft top removed due to damage and wind noise on long motorway commutes.
- soft top frame disassembled to retain bin & seatbelt bar and bracing function, easily reassembled.
- hard top fitted, now with Rogue brackets (which don't suit stock road car) but I want to design simpler brackets that replace the latches without cutting trim panels and ideally with adjustment to secure the hard top better.
- parcel shelf fabricated with black carpet covering and tecsound insulation from engine noise.
- Thinkware 550 dual safety cameras with added safety features such as collision warning, lane departure, vehicle drive off, parking security etc. Fantastic bit of kit with amazing picture performance!
- Osram led interior light.
- dual USB charging port in dash switch location besides center console.
- black pfl dash panel.
- grey side repeater lenses with LED bulbs.
- LED front park bulbs.
- LED front main/full beam bulbs.
- LED h7 driving/dipped beam bulbs.
- LED front fog bulbs.
-
And more to come. Few things waiting in the wings or on the to do list:
- Eaton M62 supercharger (Merc CLC 180 kompressor)
- ECU master DET2 piggyback, EGT, wideband, MAP, dual maps. Looking at ECUMaster Black ECU deal...
- water injection system, undecided yet.
- contemplating fitting my HHO cell prior to supercharging.
- want to fab rear diffuser that surrounds exhaust tips and closes entire underside from bumper to subframe with fins etc for better down force.
- duck tail spoiler with custom LED center brake light.
- Navpod waiting modification for either tablet or double din headunit on top of dash.
I'll add to this list as it evolves and try document the mods in this thread.
Please keep chit chat , personal comments and discussion to a minimum but discussion about my car and mods are welcome.
So I fitted h7 LED bulbs this afternoon. Rather than try to use the plastic bulb holder which won't fit over the LED bulb body, I modified the retaining clip. Light output is fantastic with an excellent beam pattern. I had hid bulbs in before and these are surprisingly better. See below.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/dcef536108dff28cd80d20d24bd82694.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/f5a5e3e5055f5e93ae6ea4865254594e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/0711ab2563ad1ec0d5dda43cce1da431.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/b4f8e21696d249a3529dc15862695f26.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/149d5ed197c51c33f339136542aaf580.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/4c018205cbdc21755ab337dfccb1e0f1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/921e24523ec407dff6e70e63aaa56e3e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/5fd61d093ac5dcd6ea3b7a361882856c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/dd03a19524a08b4ba0d791170fb2279e.jpg)
Also fitted fan pattern washer jets. Simple job. They don't perform at all, just cheap eBay jobs. Will try others.
LED beam pattern, dipped and full beams... And the cut-off on the fence.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/3e3236667961c2d90a70287dc564a083.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/e23bc6746fd4ec64959e3e9ea2fc2e88.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/b8eb3dd64a91eb33c7f639e72bdf9a11.jpg)
Quote from: MrT on February 17, 2018, 22:46
LED beam pattern, dipped and full beams... And the cut-off on the fence.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/3e3236667961c2d90a70287dc564a083.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/e23bc6746fd4ec64959e3e9ea2fc2e88.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/b8eb3dd64a91eb33c7f639e72bdf9a11.jpg)
Does anybody else think the beam pattern, especially main beam, puts more light to the left of center? Bit tricky in the photos but I think I need to correct the light alignment over to the right horizontally to put the full concentration of light down the centre of the road.
Bit dark, but here is the dual USB charger. I ordered red display but blue came and when I complained they said they couldn't get any red for a while... But it works great. Fits almost perfectly into the switch hole, slight trimming of the dash required but switches still fit as I've moved it from right to left side already.
Oh, it displays voltage when the ignition is on (acc or on) and when a power draw is plugged in it reads the output current. Very handy seeing the state of the battery on cold mornings and seeing how much power different devices use. It is just wired piggyback off the cigarette lighter which I no longer use with this installed now.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/7385cece34ec2d9440dd33da0860eb01.jpg)
My Thinkware 550 dashcam. Bit dark, bit it is nestled behind the rear view mirror so I don't even see it when driving and it talks to me anyway to great and warn etc. Rear.cam is left cable out top running behind the head liner of hard top and looking rearward...
3rd pic is of the camera 'watching' in park mode, with an active light circling the lense. Bit KITT Knight rider type deal, pretty cool. Mrs says it looks stupid...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/ae25ed2185e50b6a5e2ff2b5a695477e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/d548537b06a7eeff84edd1552dab4187.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/3de8e3108a28e00618d3544ae5ab4f28.jpg)
Before v3 of the parcel shelf I had my amp and sub mounted on the parcel shelf with a custom sub box. Performed on but the location wasn't great next to my ear and opposite direction to the door speakers (behind rather than in front) so it got axed. But here's some pics for reference or inspiration. No mod is a bad one, just a lesson how to do it even better...
For some reason I can't find a finished picture. Will look again...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/3a3730058b197d38b38e6757886120fc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/672f76876fd47d5027c71d6e553f8613.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/0783649a73c48af82bdae2f33af3b969.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/133c64593c2bb93234fdd08a033e441f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/5915cf965686e01bbcbdab7709edf3ad.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/604e1036cb2371f2ebbf65b699271953.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/d12bb86afa9b1dcf1eeb4c9c9dab76ed.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/44d85ecc73eaa46091ad69893a6f1c16.jpg)
So the v3 parcel shelf is simply flat and carpeted with tecsound insulation beneath.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/8603dfb8c1d7842ec2f7437e16de5feb.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/71cb7de835c0628bae57180266c14ea0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/6b12de30ca546064c2f4b47670f5270c.jpg)
My MSW wheels. Not a great pic but I'm going with a black on grey theme that looks awesome to me. Ride is a bit high but necessary for these rubbish roads and the amount of miles I do on them...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/47c78a82821e0dc81860242f062de0d6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/8bbccc684357248f2fccd10c226d6faa.jpg)
Then modifying the PPE headers and fabricating the link pipe... I used a cats2u center/link pipe between the stock/TTE silencer and what would be modified PPE header, plus a flexi joint and pair of 2.25" stainless flanges between the header and Flexi.
This was a fit, measure, trim, fit, measure, trim, fit, measure, trim, fit, trim, fit, trim, trim, fit, tack, trim, tack, bash, tack, tack, weld, weld job. But it turned out excellent given my equipment and guestimates that I could even pull it off using stock bits. I think the pictures speak for themselves.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/f9b15bb865807e627e111ee178d9a051.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/988807af3647bd1141e02f7571de51ee.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/b31f99a7dfd724d0c0f8203298946034.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/e220120f706536a083759d144329058d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/4fefa5668f481f8b95f2d9028852e78e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/50ab3fbb2cb7736deca8a321752a5a29.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/4639e147739cc43f19216c39c9023fb0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/3c80cda130337da2499e5f1c891ff225.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/9257be3f954543372bab6a86cedd4f2b.jpg)
I'll add more completed mods when I have chance and find the pics.
Quick pic of Red's winter dress.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180218/5eebae23adae255d6d7bea45932ae982.jpg)
Did a few bits yesterday. Mainly swopped my black pfl control facia with the silver facelift one. Only had to drill the alarm light hole and transfer the lens as below. Easy win and I'm pleased. Couldn't get the silver trims off easily so stopped trying but I'd like another set, maybe for the gauges also.
I relocated the head unit mic to a permanent position on the screen surround near my head.
Fitted hard top brackets from Rogue which cured my hard top shudder and noise but I'm not pleased with their fit. Had to chop plastics to fit them but I appreciate they're intended for track cars that are stripped. I'd like to develop my own some day to replace the stock latches and be adjustable.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/c3e76ba79ad254efee705d26b95b82d6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/70fc53ab847d34b3ea9ba957d30d8fb9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/599888fb5c73be105099a9325be404d1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/5d6018e2fa8469144a0a6ec581cb3569.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/3720d2bb1b6647ff18f70f2ac1d74c6b.jpg)
I also tried the under dash sub enclosure I bought but I'm shocked by how small it is and don't feel it maximises use of the space so made a simple cardboard template of a larger box to try later this week.
Biggest problem is how large my feet are, I tend to have my toes high up under there... I'm also going to fire the sub down to get more box volume for 2 reasons, I have a powerful slim 10" sub already and I've got the hard top permanently fitted so won't lose much power this way. Plus the foot well should transmit the sound to me on driver's side effectively anyway.
I'll post my design and fitment once I've finalised it but here's a few reference pics:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/a9cc1c4e8a63576cf9e24a98fd9596d0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/a166f8c73a2f9e51d3e28e724af8723e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/092b245c6a0ca516ce972fc51536792a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/ad021c80245a6176358ad3a4e68ac580.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/80acafe48f90914f90fdec3c359ef30d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/c4633fbd20dec78b1776b94257d138fc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/9aa03833ef190cfb217d8e960e5f72f8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180305/0dc63bc7cd70348788129a7a370329dc.jpg)
Well, I said I'd post a bit of my thoughts and consideration for getting an aftermarket ECU and some other mods to go with it. This is to remind me...
My plan is based on the following:
Burning fuel in a lean condition creates a hotter burn. This is because the fuel burns more completely and faster compared to a rich mixture in which a small portion (relative to richness) of fuel is cooling the burn by vapourising during the burn rather than combusting. This is verified simply by the smell of a cold engine in the morning smelling of fuel and the notorious emissions test failure when not given a good hot run first. Now a richer fuel ratio (uptown a certain point) will make more power thanks ironically to the excess fuel that isn't burning being super-heated and vapourising causing it to expand in volume significantly and rapidly.
But why waste that fuel and how can we avoid it?
So anyone with a high performance forced induction engine knows that they perform better in wet weather, a cold fog being ideal. This is because the air is over saturated with water vapour which enters the combustion chamber and has the same cooling effect as a rich fuel mixture but because it adds to the already present fuel ratio and the engine is running an optimised fuel ratio we maintain good fuel burn but increase the expansion force of the vapourising water. Plus we get the benefit that water expands by volume ~10x that of fuel (petrol) when changing to a gas, so you get more bang for your buck and turn more of the wasted heat that would have rushed out the exhaust to expand the water for a bigger bang.
Essentially this is like a flash steam engine except we are combining our fuel ignition and water heating in the same chamber and generating both simultaneously.
So I hope to control the fuelling and run water injection also to achieve better power delivery and increased fuel efficiency this way.
That's the plan anyway, I will post up my progress as I go.
May I suggest that you Google 'water injection' and have a good read. This is a very old and well-worn subject.
Turbos (and 2 stroke) just like cold dense air. My turbo-diesel bus goes like a train on a cold morning...
Thanks Carolynne
I've googled and googled and done my research. It is an experiment and a common practice in large energy stations to use water injection for efficiency/performance improvement. I want to scale this down.
As I'm sure you are aware, there is a lot going on in the combustion process of an ICE so it's definitely not as simple as I make it out and that's the experimental learning process.
Worth mentioning that in your endeavours of a couple mpg, you will be adversely affecting emissions and catalytic converter function...and thus emissions again.
Also note the difference between efficiency and fuel economy. The one has little to do with the other in cruise.
For cruise/light throttle enhancement, you cannot carry enough water on board to keep that going.
The weight of any water carried will also have a detrimental effect.
Thanks folks, all already under consideration. As I said, it's experimental. I'm not sure what amount of water I will need yet. But the next stage will be considering recovering the water through a condenser in the exhaust path as the water is not consumed.
Shnazzle
Why would I adversely affect the emmisions? As I briefly said, running lean creates excess heat which is what leads to increased emissions however the water will absorb the heat so lower the temperature of the combustion and produce different emissions as well as convert the heat to greater expansive force in the combustion chamber so provide more power output from less fuel because the energy is not leaving in the exhaust but propelling the pistons.
But again, alot happens in the combustion chamber so it will be a balancing act to control the emissions also.
On the subject of emissions, leaner is cleaner for emissions in everything except NOx emissions. The NOx requires an oxidant which the catalytic converter releases during oxidation of HO and CO gasses. This combination of reactions is only possible at lambda 1.0 or fuel ratio 14.7:1. The ratios at which HO-CO reactions and NOx happen are divergent, the NOx reduces in a rich condition and the other in a lean condition.
Now diesels are lean burn engines. They are throttled and power controlled by the ratio of fuel supplied so they operate significantly higher than lambda 1.0. Any keen eye will have spotted that this has been all the scandal in the news about diesel NOx emissions and so the solution introduced has been adBlue, or chemically engineered urea solution injected into hot exhaust gases to oxidise with the NOx gasses. However the process includes the use of a second catalytic converter.
But NOx is only produced at higher temperatures so my hope and ultimate test of this process is that the water vapour will significantly lower the temperature of combustion by absorbing the heat energy and gasifying into high pressure steam but at a resultant relatively lower temperature.
This is also why the EGT is important, to monitor this. I was focusing on using a wideband lambda sensor in the ECU thread to control fuel ratio and the EGT to control the water injection. This is my ultimate solution I believe I need.
We will see what happens when I start the experiment.
Thanks for the constructive input folks, it all helps add to the process.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180311/e28d2c85bc0619c04bcc8dd2d0538d3c.jpg)
Bit of interesting reading, but it's late so bye for now...
https://www.dieselnet.com/tech/engine_water.php (https://www.dieselnet.com/tech/engine_water.php)
I think Shnazzle's point about increased emissions is that if you run leaner than lambda 1, this will mean the cat won't work effectively and will break prematurely. This is a valid point and would indeed lead to greater emissions. Leaner does not mean cleaner when a cat is involved.
It is the amount of oxygen in the exhaust (not only exhaust temperature) that affects the performance of the cat, and this is directly proportional to AFR. Running lean will increase emissions and over time will fail the MOT and kill the cat, regardless of the EGT.
NOx is a separate issue altogether.
Hi Lamcote
I don't disagree with you or Shnazzle. And I'm considering your valid points. Thank you for your input. I will however point out that the combination of operating conditions which leads to emissions produced is a balance and this is what I hope to master. Leaner by default means less HO & CO since less fuel is burning. It is controlling the NOx that is the challenge.
Also, a catalyst does not participate in the reaction, it facilitates it through chemical composition. Heat and unburned fuel are bad however I plan to control these to mitigate any damage.
I appreciate all the input folks and it is considered and factored into my experiment. Cheers
You seem to be ignoring (or forgetting) the principal emission. HC, NOx and CO jointly constitute a tiny proportion of the total emissions from an engine. Controlling these is no use if you kill the cat by running lean and water injection can't help you with this no matter what you do with it.
I say again, running lean will kill the cat, that is why manufacturers spend millions making sure engines operate at Lambda =1!
Hi Lamcote
Forgive me, which is the principal emission please? You listed all 3.
I agree damaging the catalytic converter is a concern. I believe however that the emissions can be controlled to negate the need for a catalytic converter for the Euro 4(?) requirements of my car. However that is not my aim. I also believe that the catalytic converter will not degrade from the operating conditions I envisage using.
It's experimental so let's see.
Well, the principal emission is CO2 (carbon dioxide), this constitutes about 95% of the emissions from an engine, measured in grams/mile.
HC and CO (carbon monoxide) are inevitably going to be less with a lean mixture (because you're reducing the hydrocarbon input) but the main reason cars have cats is to reduce CO2, and this is your problem.
As I keep saying, a cat needs Lambda =1 to work effectively, a lean mixture means the catatalyst doesn't have the correct chemically balanced environment to do its job (turning CO to H2O), so it won't work, leading to failed MOT CO2 emissions and ultimately to a dead cat. Water injection won't improve this situation unfortunately.
Whilst I acknowledge that politicians seem to have miraculously forgotten about the importance of CO2 emissions recently, you're friendly local MOT tester hasn't!
Thanks Lamcote. That is an excellent point I'd overlooked somewhat. I will add it to my considerations and see what I can do about it.
PS, I don't plan to stray far from Lambda = 1 and so keep within the typical operating range of the catalytic converter hopefully.
All experimental. And as much as OEMs and developers have probably tried it, it's as much the journey for me.
Thanks again folks.
It will be interesting to follow your experiment, I look forward to reading about it, keep the updates coming.
Thanks lamcote
I had another thought this morning. Many city cars don't drive for long enough to warm up properly, mine suffers this plight art of the week. So they aren't running efficiently at this point ie below Lambda = 1. I know the catalytic converters suffer but it takes a few years. Purely on that basis I'd be ok with this attrition rate.
But, that is in a rich condition. I understand (and am open to correction) that the lean running is a problem primarily because of excess heat. A rich cold start is trying to generate heat to warm up the engine & catalytic converter, whereas lean running sustains high heat past this point in time therefore building up in excess in components. On that premise by controlling the temperatures with water injection I should control this better.
It does not address the chemical imbalance of glasses and reaction however, I recognise this.
I'm still following this with interest, not out of a desire to do the same but hoping you find a workaround you're satisfied with.
The biggest recurring issue to me with all your experiments is that all of your mitigants and resolutions involve adding mass to your car or increased demand from the engine via extra electrics for probably very modest gains in performance, so ultimately it's going to be the power to weight ratio that kills your hopes of an economical power increase.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I suppose there are two issues:
1. Long term - To see any significant benefit you will have to run lean most of the time. If you are running lean most of the time you will need to carry an awful lot of water to protect the cat. As Call the midlife has just said, this will probably be counter productive.
2. Short term - you will fail the MOT emissions test and be causing even more pollution than a VW on a daily basis
That's an excellent point also. Yes, the weight is a big consideration. Power on the other hand is potentially addressed with a supercharger. This should allow more power only when needed and still achieve the lean running. I agree the electronics is getting complex, also why I was asking about ECUMaster black group buy deal as that looks to have enough extra control outputs and obviously the ability to map them to help achieve this.
Just collating some info, I will edit this post a few times...
http://www.alentecinc.com/papers/NOx/The%20formation%20of%20NOx_files/The%20formation%20of%20NOx.htm (http://www.alentecinc.com/papers/NOx/The%20formation%20of%20NOx_files/The%20formation%20of%20NOx.htm)
I understand that your objective of running lean is to achieve greater fuel economy?
If that is correct, the weight of the water will be of significant detriment to your cause.
However, please don't let any of us put you off experimenting. We're all here to make our cars just the way we want by whatever means we choose.
Quote from: MrT on March 12, 2018, 10:39
That's an excellent point also. Yes, the weight is a big consideration. Power on the other hand is potentially addressed with a supercharger. This should allow more power only when needed and still achieve the lean running. I agree the electronics is getting complex, also why I was asking about ECUMaster black group buy deal as that looks to have enough extra control outputs and obviously the ability to map them to help achieve this.
When I mentioned extra electrics Tyler I was meaning more the increased demand on the engine itself to power all your additional motors, pumps and condensers etc as opposed to the CAC side of things.
Whatever form of water spray system/condenser you look at will ultimately give an increased draw on your engine, much the same way as aircon does, as I'm sure you've already considered.
But as Lamcote has already said, someone has to be a pioneer, it might as well be you.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks folks.
So back to CO2 quickly, this is directly proportional to fuel efficiency/combustion so using less fuel reduces this.
Regarding weight and economy, alot of my driving is steady state on the motorway at 50, 60, 70mph so weight will only be a real issue under repeated acceleration. And I usually drive alone so it is much like carrying a passenger.
CTM
I don't envisage much more power electronics needed. The water injection isn't high power and the condenser design I have in mind is air-air or possibly air-water but not using a cooling system, rather using the volume of water stored to cool the glasses and catch the water. But that's way off, I need to test the concept and develop a simple working solution first.
I think you'll find yourself a bit disappointed with progress as you go to be honest. Bear in mind that new cars under the insane EU6 emissions regulations have gone to the farthest end of a fart to reduce emissions and none of them do things like this.
What they do is reducing wasted usage (start stop), "recovering" energy by things like KERS-like systems, tyres that reduce rolling resistance (huge mpg saving) and even aerodynamic changes on the go to reduce resistance.
Diesel fuel packs a very different chemical potential and cannot be compared to petrol when it comes to tuning unfortunately.
So don't seek support from that angle. Totally different.
Also, bear in mind the 1zz-fe was basically made for efficiency and "bang for buck" so it's hard to improve on in this regard.
As previously said. This idea has been around for a long time.....
Never really caught on.
Hi Shnazzle
I'm not trying to reduce emissions, that is a sideline challenge to meet MOT regulations and I might just ignore it and switch off the whole setup for MOT testing.
Hi Carolynne
I've not seen that but looked at many of those so called claims. Bottom line, water doesn't burn... And I'm not trying to do that.
I did my Bachelor's degree thesis on the electro-mechanical disassociation of water molecules with a view to use the expansive force in a propulsive capacity such as modified implementation of an ICE. That is not what I'm trying to achieve here either, it carries complexities in electronics and power supply plus electromagnetic interference or pollution causing interference in nearby electronics etc.
My aim is simply to recover the significant excess heat lost out the exhaust of a ICE by absorbing it into water vapour to create a flash steam reaction as the vapour gasifies and generates significant additional expansive force.
Nothing is free or perpetual or any of that lark, I'm trying to convert thermal energy to mechanical energy through energy transfer into a separate carrier (water) and harness that energy in the same way the fuel energy is harnessed from heating air to expand a chamber volume and force a piston down.
It's rather simple if you treat it as what it is. The trick is going to be tuning it and finding a balance between the 2 reactions occuring. Fuel burns slowly, but the water will gasify rapidly when sufficient heat is available and it's expansive force is significantly greater than the standard fuel-air reaction. So the timing may need to be retarded because the lean mixture is going to ignite and burn faster but also the critical point in time when the water expands must be well past TDC of the stroke as it is powerful and shorter lived than the fuel burn so should occur at the greatest stroke point to maximise energy transfer to rotational mechanical force. Also the fuel - water ratio will have a tipping point at which water vapour begins to saturate and impede the combustion so this must be achieved.
Ultimately direct injection of the water would be best but we haven't really got the technology for that currently. This would offer even more effective performance in an auto-ignition engine (such as diesel) as you control timing, volume and fuel ratios fully to optimise the reaction.
But let's walk before we try running. And I haven't got a hard timeline for this so it may be a while coming but I will keep the forum updated for curiosity sake.
I have just been reading lots of information about the latest Bosch Waterboost water injection system.
It's worth some research as all the advantages and disadvantages of water injection are addressed in various articles, however the outcome doesn't appear too promising for your experiment, as described above, for a couple of reasons:
1. You are trying to run the engine lean to save fuel, thereby operating away from Lambda =1 as much as possible. Bosch have arrived at the conclusion that water injection is best used just to reduce over fueling under hard acceleration ie they actually finish up running the engine at/closer to Lambda =1 more of the time, not less (this will be to retain cat efficiency for CO2 emissions). This is why their system uses so little water.
2. You suggest that the expansion of the water (from its vaporisation) after TDC adds to the power of the engine. Bosch think that the cooling effect from the water's latent heat of vaporisation, if it occurrs after TDC, actually reduces power by chilling the cylinder during the combustion phase, which is just when you really want to have most heat and therefore maximum expansion. Hence, they choose port injection which ensures vaporisation occurs during inlet/compression and prior to the combustion phase.
But it's all interesting stuff.
Thanks lamcote.
I'll definitely have a look at that. One concern I have is you keep mentioning CO2 emissions but the catalytic converter doesn't affect these. It actually makes more CO2 by reacting NOx and CO gasses... CO2 only reduces or increases proportional to fuel consumption.
Secondly, Bosch are correct that when using lesser quantity of water it could cool rather than heat the air hence affect power but that is because insufficient heat was generated initially. And this is the dangerous game. You need to make lots of heat and then absorb it into the water to generate the super heated / flash steam reaction. And this is where running lean aids that heat generation and more efficient running. BUT lean comprises NOx emissions unless you go VERY lean and then petrol won't ignite by spark and requires auto-ignition much like a diesel operates.
I will have a look at the Bosch information.
Well, maybe you can make it work, I will watch with interest. The Bosch info is definitely worth a read.
Edit. Thinking about it more, doesn't your graph on page 1 show quite clearly that you need the cat to be working effectively to achieve acceptably low HC and CO emissions, even when running lean, and it won't do that if you're not running at Lambda =1?
To me, that's the key sticking point (and would explain the reasons behind the approach taken by Bosch).
I think you've read the graph backwards. Lean is greater than lambda 1 ie right hand side of the graph.
I realise which way round it is but the important point is, the solid lines show emissions after the cat, ie assuming it is working effectively. If the cat isn't working you will be getting emissions at the level shown by the dotted lines.
I have revised my answer to a simple summary below which may help clarify the position one way or another?
Hopefully I have understood your point correctly?
I think I can simplify this discussion;
Are you saying that there is only one reason manufacturers don't run lean, that being NOx, there's nothing else that's a problem?
If so, you are suggesting that by reducing NOx through using water injection, you can then run lean?
If the above is correct, I would suggest there are actually two reasons why manufacturers don't run lean;
1.NOx, (this may be addressed by water injection?)
2. Running lean means the cat doesn't work effectively and you can fail MOT emissions tests on HC and or CO, not just NOx. We know this is true because it happens every day at MOT stations. If a car is not properly maintained and isn't running at Lambda =1 eg an air inlet leak or a broken injector causes a car to run lean, it can fail the HC and or CO emissions test because the cat isn't working effectively. (This can't be addressed by water injection and I believe the only solution is to run at Lambda =1?)
If this isn't the case I agree with shnazzle and would be amazed that the manufacturers haven't run lean to improve fuel economy, given the pressure they're under. And surely Bosch would have tested this when developing their system. If not, I suggest you get a patent application in quick.
Have I missed anything?
Hi Lamcote
No I think you are scratching the surface correctly. I'll continue my research and see what happens when I try it out.
At the least I'll not run lean but the water expansion will give more power and therefore less throttle required so less fuel used, or more burnouts and drifting [emoji16]
Hopefully you can find a setup you like.
Well a quick update. I managed a couple hours to fit my new dash cubby. Firstly thanks to Danny on Facebook page for the great service. Brand new unit from the homeland and it's perfect. Only missing item was some screws and fitting instructions. Hopefully this might help someone else in future.
So removing airbag, all safety precautions are advised and I take no responsibility for you discharging your airbag mistakenly. Disconnect the battery and ideally cycle the ignition to train any charge in the electrics. I didn't do any of these though...
So anyway, the airbag is held in by a main 12mm hex bolt plainly obvious when you pull the main cubby out. I didn't actually take a picture of it but here it is later on.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/9bf2434411a0ad55e6f67b4e0915dcef.jpg)
Next on either side of the airbag are 2 10mm hex head nuts that can be reached with an extension on a socket or driver handle. No pics unfortunately, I was rather zealous when it was coming apart so well. There is also the support bar that bolts on with a 10mm bolt besides the main airbag bolt that needs to be removed to give a little more wiggle room.
The top dash cover panel also clips into the dash so needs a little gentle prying to loosen it before you can fiddle the airbag up. Don't forget to disconnect the cable on the right side from through the cubby opening. Plenty room. Then with the fasteners removed and top cover coming loose the trick is to lift the front edge (facing you, not front of car) and lift the left side up clear of the dash edge to slip the airbag up and out. Gently and patiently does it as the dash plastic is soft and can damage easily.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/0e151e7a0b425be6e1e2cfc02e5708f4.jpg)
Now before fitting the dash cubby there are 2 mounts on the underside of the dashboard that take course thread screws, they are like long tubes with side bracing protruding off the underside of the dash. I couldn't get a very clear pic. Screw these in 80% of the way and remove them again to make fitting them later easier by finger initially.
Also, the main lug on the dash cubby doesn't clear the mounting bracket, perhaps it's different on the pfl but anyway. Here is how you trim it, the right side needs to be rounded off with about 5mm of wall thickness around the hole to maintain its strength and the side bracing must be trimmed also, thus:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/45fc29fb488b709088a087bc16f0ec60.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/278a6a1cd006e742851d7870ddfc7f86.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/4e4dab809181b8d342ea134e94c1d568.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/3a94034f608b316f8ae55e0235b17705.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/03c2c16da9bc2a4972b472b93a5a0709.jpg)
TBC...
Now we mustn't forget fitting a resistor to the airbag connector to avoid any warning lights... I got one from Maplin, 3ohm, 7watt ceramic as shown. I heat wrapped the wires and wrapped them round then wrapped the whole resistor thus:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/bb04fe88df4b7434c204fe5fcf139da3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/109eba0c7937e9b5011179c8280a2b17.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/ac17d1b9c75301eb1f2d456dbb511412.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/fc9afd9a4775460eab7936c7c3a9b908.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/74b03a6895c3dba9843c6980bd0fa9de.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/9e3d4c925c41b74b163f77a115860d4b.jpg)
I then inserted the ends into the connector and taped the resistor to the connector and tucked it behind the side panel in the dash.
TBC...
Now to fitting the dash cubby. The cubby is longer than the opening in the dash and right hand side tucks in under the dash. So you must slot the right side in under the dash before pushing it along and down. Now the tricky bit is whilst lowering the cubby into the hole, ensure the cubby edges that clip into the dashboard and manoeuvre the main mount bracket bast it's fastening bracket on the dash bar underneath. Pics speak a 1000 words so have a look below.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/cdd446dfc398ee088e800747ed742ae5.jpg)
I didn't get any pics whilst wiggling it in unfortunately.
Then loosely fit the main bolt and little bracket bolt beside it. Then fit and tighten the 2 side bolts. I lay on my back in the passenger seat, head in the footwell with a torch and a long extension on the driver to get the right side screw in, was alot easier than expected from that position. The left side (right when on your back under dash) is easy to get to and I actually kneeled in from outside the car and it was easier.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/a0edc7ee1d6296359d315680fddd35b9.jpg)
Once these are tightened gently, tighten the main bolt and bracket bolt and it's in! Fit the main cubby and all finished. Surprisingly alot of space in there.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/9d83a00c73cec264483399325fe90bac.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/4b0a1082f2852e91724576777a2d4af5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/8c4da870c45a914e6a1c4f4688513fda.jpg)
If anybody wants any info let me know.
I nipped out this evening and fitted read mud flaps, undecided how they look but they disappear against the tyres anyway so we'll see.
Easy to fit, needed to drill a hole for one mount and I just screwed straight into the bumper. I jacked up the rear of the car to full droop to get enough room between tyre and bumper, just lazy and quick...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180521/7c12e96a79ae1361fecc4a3e5adb477b.jpg)
Then there's already a hole at the bottom for the second mount and I fitted some salvaged screw clips to the bumper to fasten to, rock solid.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180521/f8f47102add3ea5f6cb1a99687f0f60e.jpg)
Then only trick was screwing other screw in. And tighten up.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180521/04f9a5a947dc771dc818362a2c625c3e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180521/82be4b5d87ee03ea8d4dc4db5e06db02.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180521/93e2714e14e932c3bb114dcd28d9cfe5.jpg)
Quote from: MrT on May 12, 2018, 19:01
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/4b0a1082f2852e91724576777a2d4af5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/8c4da870c45a914e6a1c4f4688513fda.jpg)
If anybody wants any info let me know.
That's cool is it standard in Japan or something or not actually a Toyota part ?
Quote from: MrT on May 12, 2018, 19:01
Now to fitting the dash cubby. The cubby is longer than the opening in the dash and right hand side tucks in under the dash. So you must slot the right side in under the dash before pushing it along and down. Now the tricky bit is whilst lowering the cubby into the hole, ensure the cubby edges that clip into the dashboard and manoeuvre the main mount bracket bast it's fastening bracket on the dash bar underneath. Pics speak a 1000 words so have a look below.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/cdd446dfc398ee088e800747ed742ae5.jpg)
I didn't get any pics whilst wiggling it in unfortunately.
Then loosely fit the main bolt and little bracket bolt beside it. Then fit and tighten the 2 side bolts. I lay on my back in the passenger seat, head in the footwell with a torch and a long extension on the driver to get the right side screw in, was alot easier than expected from that position. The left side (right when on your back under dash) is easy to get to and I actually kneeled in from outside the car and it was easier.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/a0edc7ee1d6296359d315680fddd35b9.jpg)
Once these are tightened gently, tighten the main bolt and bracket bolt and it's in! Fit the main cubby and all finished. Surprisingly alot of space in there.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/9d83a00c73cec264483399325fe90bac.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/4b0a1082f2852e91724576777a2d4af5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/8c4da870c45a914e6a1c4f4688513fda.jpg)
If anybody wants any info let me know.
Also love this. Could do with reclaiming a little storage.
It is a Toyota part.but I believe only optional. I didn't seek it out, found it on Facebook group. Danny Joyce imports Japanese parts and had this. If you ask he might find some more for you. This was new old stock. And the quality shows, matches dash etc brilliantly. And lots of space! Just no lock if that bothers you.
Meant to post earlier, nipped out Tuesday to swap over my OMP steering wheel, and the horn arrived today so just got that fitted now also.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180525/49d8372bbb95e82855e9478f4c10db27.jpg)
Note to self: fitted solid gear cage spacers, polybush suspension arms plus spherical bush.
What boss have you got MrT?
I don't recall the make. It is a solid cast unit, was advertised for a different vehicle but I checked spline matched etc. Only issue was clearance to the white connector for the horn wire but I removed the connector and removed the wire, insulated the small connector on the wire and simply plugged that in on its own.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180530/2f3f3065e6e1f97c06766bec05bc6546.jpg)
Any issues with indicator cancelling etc? Ive seen a few that done cover the hole in the steering cowling and need the 'squib' removed, was yours just plug and play other than the horn?
Just bolt right on, wire in the horn and something for the airbag and go. No effect on anything else, steering wheel is further from stalks a bit but suits my larger hands.
If you have any pointers at all on what car it was for/make it would be much apprieciated!
Genuine MOMO steering wheel hub boss kit MK7733R off eBay. That's all I can preview in my purchases as it was a while back. Might have actually been meant for the 2 after all, apologies.
FYI eBay item number 162947246845. I have no affiliation to eBay or the seller of this product and simply offer this for your information.
Right so I bought a new (to me) HKS / Blitz back box from Facebook, fitted it same night, really pleased with the performance and sound. Not so keen on the tip! (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/ceaef9e221d2474ec037652cadc71f25.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/eb6c229e4330a4dd29dc5028b86ac3fa.jpg)
How to carry a garden waste bin in an MR2...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180620/76aa4b254ba2ae887c0fbe8a9e99b6ce.jpg)
Seat and hard top removed of course... Needs must!
Well today was eventful. I realised after checking on Tuesday that my MOT has lapsed in May so she was rushed in to the garage today with no prep and only a handbrake adjustment on one side to pass with no other findings! Can't complain about that!
Then this arrived yesterday and I got it home today as well and SWMBO allowed me to crawl under the (now half lowered) MR2 and fit it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180719/7fa8a0f23e09c415cbf0be0de1e7c1d0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180719/87cda484516fde406551f258679751a3.jpg)
What a great item. I can't wait for the commute tomorrow to see how the car feels scurrying over these broken roads.
PS: I refer to half lowering because I've fitted rear dampers with Koni inserts and Tein springs. Rides well, I might trim the bumps for a bit more free travel. Fronts are waiting to go on, maybe this weekend. It shows up the difference in control of the old stock shocks and the new Konis cause the front end skips and hops up over bumps but the rear just squats and keeps taking the hits. I'll be glad to have the front doing the same and have some control and comfort back. I'll post more once fitted.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180719/1ae81a1b9b37331ff11cde82a8ea699d.jpg)
Saggy bottom...
Well, it's been a long time since I've posted. I got the front dampers fitted shortly after and I can highly recommend them with tein springs. Car is a good height and I fitted Vauxhall Vectra (I think) front bump stops for more travel and with only a little damping set the ride is smooth and comfortable, no jacking down on bumps etc and flat in the corners. Turn up the damping and you can have firm, stiff and even solid suspension so on a glassy track it'd be perfect but for my commuting I am very pleased too. Totally stable and responsive to steering input even into 3 figure speeds with high cross winds.
But of a laugh also, I've long missed my Rav4 swb and having space and flexibility of it compared to the roadster. But every time I build up to convincing myself I need another one, I go and prove myself unjustified. Even to the point recently of having the spare wheel on the rear of the car on show...
So it's winter tyre season, and I needed to pickup a set of 18" tyres on rims for my wife's SUV. So passenger seat out and off I go, confident I can squeeze them inside the car but knowing I might need to throw one on the back to get them all home. Ala Rav4:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/5054c9849b1e8c4d61db1c9e66aa1b8b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/c9eb5a713f595bcbf70fa825fb1973f4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/ba3b5a92e52eb78f62da525e11d385f8.jpg)
And if that wasn't enough, I needed to play switcheroo with the 2's winter tyres, so how to transport 3 sets of wheels in a roadster? One set on the car (cheating already), 6 in the car and 2 on the back. Dakar rally anyone?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/074a72f72dddb41f64bd21054448dff8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/1416a6529ff27b2c095c12796b536e14.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/fdf49033f7dc18fc2b947ce258bafc36.jpg)
Oh and then I was returning with 2 full sets and a split set, rims and tyres separate...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/a3710c9d188696a3fe18be81ab003e62.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/3c682692321d38c8d9d0b4149e14ad87.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/2f0e5654aa4c1155140fed32466361b8.jpg)
I know, I'm nuts. But needs must. No justifying a second Rav4 to SWMBO... Ah well, at least I can spend a bit more time on mods for the 2 instead.
I have side scoops and a rear wing to fit, plus a sub enclosure to build and sound system to fit. I also have a navpod but I can't decide to fit a headunit or tablet to run as radio/entertainment/nav. And I have a plan to modify some stock seats to slim them down to give more leg room and tweak the support and comfort for my large frame.
Plus maybe a headlight upgrade for the dark winter months, retrofitting projector hid lights to pfl headlights with led DRL lights built in.
And a 1 piece plastic sheet under tray from bumper to bumper integrating diffuser functionality.
The list never gets shorter...
Oh I bought a headlight restoration kit from Euro Car Parts, green box. WOW, fantastic kit. Follow it precisely for near flawless results. Totally transformed my lights. Except I can see how dirty the inside surface is now and can't clean them...
PS, the tie strap/ropes holding the wheels on were strapped to the solid fixed hardtop brackets so safe and strong, don't worry.
RIP my little rocket...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181203/fe464c5780c7ac01d3cd9d1b52efdaf0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181203/cc67d6cff3f333975288511ef46855e5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181203/69a9f31d4b947a7349d01b859e85c28d.jpg)
She will live again in spirit though!
Oh yikes, what happened? Hoping no injury. :( sorry to see that
Quote from: delhusband on December 3, 2018, 12:35
Oh yikes, what happened? Hoping no injury. :( sorry to see that
Thanks @delhusband.
No injuries, miraculously. On motorway in fast lane at dusk/just before dark when the headlight glare blends with everything else and road started turning but car did its job and continued straight, when it ran over the rumbles I startled and corrected left, quickly over correcting back into the lane again and accidentally executed a perfect Scandinavian flick...
Unfortunately those are designed for corners and when the car turned right the nose hammered the central Armco barrier and put it into a spin till the rear did the same (me naturally trying to catch the spin but with no steering...) And spun once or twice more buy staying in the fast lane and stopping transverse to traffic flow.
Happened in about 5 secs so was over before I figured out what was happening. Nobody else involved thankfully as I could have been piled upon by hoards of other commuters, statistically almost impossible that it happened that way. Just God's hand taking care of me again.
Mrs wasn't impressed I've trashed another car but she hated it, apparently it was my mistress, not sure where she got that idea. I have a spare though so I'll salvage the good bits and rebuild the spare to drive another day...
Thanks for the concern.
Quote from: delhusband on December 3, 2018, 12:35
Oh yikes, what happened? Hoping no injury. :( sorry to see that
I was just about to say that! :(
Glad you're ok. As said cars can be replaced but people cant.
Glad you can salvage some parts too.
Glad you're OK.Said it before, I'll say it again, these cars seem to be phenomenal at keeping the occupants safe. Look at that crumpling, that's fantastic design at work.
Absolute shame about the car.
Glad you're ok.
Thanks guys. Lots of 'luck' or circumstance involved but fortunately my speed was mostly arrested by the tyres in the spin rather than the Armco...
Wow! Great that you're okay!!! Sorry to see another late Sable looking so worse for wear!! I take it that's buckle chassis and no chance of a repair of any sort?
@MrT (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=24395) Commiserations and very glad to hear you are OK, and as above the crumple zones did their job. The Romans had the right idea, built all their roads nice and straight ;)
Thanks folks.
I don't know if the chassis is bent, will have to hear back from insurance but it's not economically salvageable for sure. Might be a donor for another project one day...
Hi chap, sorry to bump an old topic, but I'm looking for an airbag dash cubby like the one you fitted. Don't suppose you know of any available, or what the proper name for it is?
Quote from: wafers on May 19, 2020, 00:01Hi chap, sorry to bump an old topic, but I'm looking for an airbag dash cubby like the one you fitted. Don't suppose you know of any available, or what the proper name for it is?
You might be waiting a long while for a reply from the author but in the meantime they're very much a JDM part, due to the EU safety laws they didn't get fitted to EU cars.
They pop up on the Japanese auction sites quite often but the VAT on import makes them a bit pricey.
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 19, 2020, 09:43Quote from: wafers on May 19, 2020, 00:01Hi chap, sorry to bump an old topic, but I'm looking for an airbag dash cubby like the one you fitted. Don't suppose you know of any available, or what the proper name for it is?
You might be waiting a long while for a reply from the author but in the meantime they're very much a JDM part, due to the EU safety laws they didn't get fitted to EU cars.
They pop up on the Japanese auction sites quite often but the VAT on import makes them a bit pricey.
Thanks for the reply! Apologies for the delay but I've only stumbled across this topic by pure accident today whilst looking for help with fitting my new cubby box!
It transpires they are still available from Toyota. They're shipped from Japan so expect a bit of a delay, but it does mean you receive a brand new part.
Mine's now fitted - I'll just need to source a resistor to switch off the airbag light when I get chance. Result!
Quote from: wafers on May 19, 2020, 00:01Hi chap, sorry to bump an old topic, but I'm looking for an airbag dash cubby like the one you fitted. Don't suppose you know of any available, or what the proper name for it is?
Sorry wafers, been offline a long time. And I kept all my good bits for my 'spare' MR-S project car which I'm itching to resurrect again.
Glad you found one and surprised it's from Toyota and still available, cool!
@MrT welcome back after some time!
Pleased to see your not waiting until Easter for the resurrection of your 2.
Quote from: Joesson on November 15, 2021, 17:16@MrT welcome back after some time!
Pleased to see your not waiting until Easter for the resurrection of your 2.
Thanks Joesson! Not decided if I'll start a new thread for the other car or keep this going.
Quote from: MrT on November 16, 2021, 22:09Quote from: Joesson on November 15, 2021, 17:16@MrT welcome back after some time!
Pleased to see your not waiting until Easter for the resurrection of your 2.
Thanks Joesson! Not decided if I'll start a new thread for the other car or keep this going.
I suppose a replacement car is a "mod" albeit the biggest "mod" anyone is going to do so perhaps carry on with this thread. It could be interesting to read what you decide is the way to go the second time around.
Thanks. Actually majority of these mods will just be transferred over. Then the car will continue to evolve. So seems fitting to continue here.
I received replacement front arms to polybush (since the donor's are bent) and am scrimping about to get some shocks since at least 1 died on the donor also... Then I have the makings of a roadworthy car, albeit in 1.5 cars worth of stuff... And not picked a good time of year to start this...
Quote from: Joesson on November 15, 2021, 17:16@MrT welcome back after some time!
Pleased to see your not waiting until Easter for the resurrection of your 2.
Haha Joesson looks like Easter came and went. Tricky with the car in a separate lock up garage. But engine and gearbox are swopped and back together, waiting to lift back into the car. (Not in the photo haha, I was too dirty for photos)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220425/12f5f1e07dcd449bb6b07034ace52737.jpg)
Few things need some clean up and rust prevention and sadly I ordered the wrong Yaris arms. I'm going to check the ones on the car and if the ball joints are good just swap the poly bushes on those. And clean them up of course.
New Koni inserts replaced the damaged fronts, also awaiting assembly.
Hopefully close now though the interior is in bits as it was slowly pillaged during my Sable mods... But that should be quick and clean to rectify and not essential for MOT [emoji16]
Sent from my M2102J20SG using Tapatalk
@MrT ,
Tricky with the car in a separate lock up garage, if it was empty, but as it is being used to store rolls of carpet and especially a stack of boards, with a surely patented usage of a car jack, that must come under the heading
Don't try this at home!Amazing!
Quote from: Joesson on April 25, 2022, 09:25@MrT ,Tricky with the car in a separate lock up garage, if it was empty, but as it is being used to store rolls of carpet and especially a stack of boards, with a surely patented usage of a car jack, that must come under the heading Don't try this at home!
Amazing!
You aren't meant to notice all that sir... There's 5 sets of wheels and tyres, half a bathroom, a bed frame and half a scooter in there somewhere also. Oh plus 2 more sets of tyres. Damn it needs a tidy out. Oh and the interior of another MR2...
Plus a hard top and 2 roof boxes, and all that wood/plasterboard balanced on the top of the car.
Yikes I'm. Ashamed now I realise how much junk is in there...
Hence I can only work on the rear of the car...
Cheers
Tyler
Quote from: MrT on April 25, 2022, 09:40You aren't meant to notice all that sir... There's 5 sets of wheels and tyres, half a bathroom, a bed frame and half a scooter in there somewhere also. Oh plus 2 more sets of tyres. Damn it needs a tidy out. Oh and the interior of another MR2...
Plus a hard top and 2 roof boxes, and all that wood/plasterboard balanced on the top of the car.
Yikes I'm. Ashamed now I realise how much junk is in there...
Hence I can only work on the rear of the car...
Cheers
Tyler
As said , "Amazing", not necessarily in a good way, but you can certainly perform despite adversity!
If you have a hard top in there somewhere perhaps you should have a word with
@TheTigerUK as he is having a problem with where to store his hard top.
Yes, sometimes needs must... It has to drive out that garage to be allowed home. And I have limited battery tools so it's a little tough. But dangerous when the shell is stood up on to short wooden posts but I always check for stability and the tyres are deflated so fortunately it doesn't roll easily. But not recommended for anybody to copy my bad behaviours. Or inform SWMBO what's happening in there...
My storage method for the hard top is no good currently but later I hope to hang it from the rafters like the roof box. It could also hang vertically from the rafters against the wall. I'll have plenty space when the car is out (to store another car shell...).
But let's get back to the MR-S. Hopefully resolve my 1 remaining issue of sized track rod bolt keeping it stuck in the sub frame then I can clean, paint and wax/oil the sub frame and ARBs to begin reassembly. Not the best weather mind you...
Cheers
Tyler
Well some progress is being made! Off side bolted in, just missing the caliper mount bolts [emoji2959]
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220508/a1f9573a40445dff7cfcb37efcc894d0.jpg)
I think I found some replacements and will find out today but need to get the near side together so I can put her arse back on the ground and dress it back up.
Then I can get the car out and swap the front suspension to get to an MOT asap! Got to make it to that National meet after 6 years of ownership...
Cheers
Tyler
Has anybody ever deleted this daft emissions thing? I've misplaced a pipe and not sure where the valve mounts either...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220508/6518d561361c9e17b439d51ef677ae36.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220508/77c8793254001f7354b43a3828cfee55.jpg)
Cheers
Tyler
Quote from: MrT on May 8, 2022, 11:22Has anybody ever deleted this daft emissions thing? I've misplaced a pipe and not sure where the valve mounts either...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220508/6518d561361c9e17b439d51ef677ae36.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220508/77c8793254001f7354b43a3828cfee55.jpg)
Cheers
Tyler
Found the pipe and figured out this is a fuel tank breather I believe. So leaving it alone for now...
Cheers
Tyler
Quote from: MrT on May 8, 2022, 10:40Well some progress is being made! Off side bolted in, just missing the caliper mount bolts [emoji2959]
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220508/a1f9573a40445dff7cfcb37efcc894d0.jpg)
I think I found some replacements and will find out today but need to get the near side together so I can put her arse back on the ground and dress it back up.
Then I can get the car out and swap the front suspension to get to an MOT asap! Got to make it to that National meet after 6 years of ownership...
Cheers
Tyler
Who spotted the mistake? There's a flexible torsion bar (ARB) missing...
Cheers
Tyler
That pipe was disconnected on my new car and it ran ok!
I put it back on and it ran ok too!
(https://i.imgur.com/fB23N4c.jpg)
Thanks Topdownman
Anyway a fairly productive day. Though I've misplaced some fasteners and can't mount a caliper or the bumper... And my taillight is bust, so reached out for some bits to finish then then I can wheel it out the garage at long last.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220508/b9d228d8c34f3c7e16a83449ddbd2b15.jpg)
Cheers
Tyler
Well many thanks to J-Spec for getting me out a hole, I misplaced all my bumper fixings and needed a replacement tail light, 2 days later and a modest charge for the taillight only and I had the light, bumper fixings including NEW clips and the missing caliper bolts I needed.
So I had a great lunch break today, got the rear end on, just can't reach the engine lid until the car is out the garage so tomorrow hopefully I can do that and get the fuel pump back in and enough interior to get her running, oh plus fit the steering wheel [emoji28]
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220513/cdc92c3bfba92be07a35ee5b8593dda7.jpg)
Few detail pics for my interest... The exhaust manifold and link pipe, both looking rather tired and due some TLC.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220513/23efcede9e9d739627d281fa0e2c1dea.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220513/cdb6ca7aa7082290331bfc7f0f4c7ace.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220513/b04339610fbec5b5b87c96fdb6e025a5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220513/ee9788ddeb0c3b5546a92ba749b82527.jpg)
PS, don't comment on the jack placement, I have to skootch the car sideways to work on each side and get it out the garage / pack stuff round it...
Cheers
Tyler
Ok so the car is out the garage [emoji3060][emoji3060][emoji30]
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220514/77395d214987ed102d9477568f731641.jpg)
Well the roof isn't fitted and it's torn anyway so likely needs to be replaced. I guess the hard top is going back on...
And I have some missing fasteners and a problem with how I just cut off the fuel lines from the pump rather than disconnecting them a few years back and now I can't connect the replacement pump... I'm hoping I can get replacement lines quickly. And the radiators don't look in very good shape [emoji24]
Cheers
Tyler
Well it took some doing, but it's running again.
I had a big fight with the front suspension and some missing and broken parts to be replaced via J-Spec but got most of the front end together.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220524/cbbfccb6d618a8fbe0a629605a96d8a5.jpg)
I bought what was listed as a zzw30 radiator but turned out to be a Celica radiator. Anyway the Facebook guys said it'd fit with a different off side hose so I'll go find one but for now I've manoeuvred the original hose into an acceptable position to seal and not kink excessively. Not ideal but enough to drive the thing home.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220524/2d9fd6ed12fc3035850c80275be6f511.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220524/4fddc1166c486235a7bc13a2beb9f8ab.jpg)
Tight fit, need a little clearance.but it looks good in there.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220524/47ecd03634dad7b31bc02ef1d5cbae4e.jpg)
The fan shroud stands nearly a centimeter off from the radiator so I trimmed it with a trunk seal,. almost airtight fit now and boy does it move air through (a/c fan helps...)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220524/58e82957d7d8dc95e5d7700568c2c80a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220524/bb5c9849a8349af9263c4d8ead15b792.jpg)
This was all on the weekend and enough of a headache (after spending Saturday afternoon retrieving the long term project from a family member's garage to replace the MR-S in my lock up. Any guesses?). Then to try and get it started, coolant bled etc. Everything was hooked up fine, alarm seemed to behave but not sure, ignition on, turn and small click of the relay in the passenger foot well. Initially the pump fired but only once. Damn, is the immobiliser being a dick? A night's research and no, that's behaving. This afternoon I crawled under the car again, tested the starter circuit, battery and earth resistances etc, all seemed good.
So I sat in the driver seat thinking wtf else is wrong, these cars are simple and reliable. Got sidetracked thinking my gear knob is still missing and oh I have a new clutch, I wonder if that's working as well. Sheesh, feels light (compared to my 2.0 diesel...) and then in the dead silence of my contemplation I pressed the clutch again and heard a faint click of a switch. #!&##£!!?! Expletives ring out, am I supposed to put the clutch in to start it? YES!!!!!
Success, sort of. This brand new battery sounds like it's really struggling to turn over the motor, and I charged it last night... Oh I know, that hulking great diesel has an oversize battery, let's jump it. Boom, the thing turns over like a sewing machine. Keep trying, it sort of fires but not. Few more attempts and it starts. Couple more tries, it starts but won't idle... hop out and check, off side cylinder (4?) Is not firing, check plug, dry, no fuel?!!! Oh maybe those 3 litres I put in a dry tank weren't quite enough...
Home to cook dinner, hey sun's out so light a fire. Then back to the petrol station for another 5l top up. Now try and after a few attempts and switching the ignition to run the fuel pump and it's running, rough to begin then smoother, and idling now. Leave it to heat up and cycle the fans etc, check coolant leaks and so on. All seems ok. But not coming off fast idle. Cool down and top up coolant then run again.
Meanwhile I put the rest of the front back on. OSF wing is bent, explains the trashed headlight and now nothing aligns but that's near enough sorted and the bumper is back on along with headlight and looks like a car again. Tidy up, pack up and tootle home gently in the dead of night, unroadworthy, no tax, no MOT, no insurance. Only less than half a mile.
And it's home at last. Now for the hard part of fixing that front suspension and getting it running properly. Engine light is on but I can't get the obd reader to connect, job for another day.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220524/d2dbfb2a08df16b36353a33e691ebdb2.jpg)
Cheers
Tyler
Mega.
:) nice to see a fellow Custard in the open air up and running 8) 8)
some work gone into that with more to come :) :)
keeping going its worth it when you drive it O:-) O:-)
Thank you folks.
I've had a few late nights and not updated the thread so hear goes.
First the big headache was removing those old wishbones. The front bolts had rusted solid into the bushes so no undoing or removing the bolts from the bushes or sub-frame. Thankfully, it's like Toyota designed the subframe for a 115mm cutting disc to slip right in to chop the bushes / bolts apart. So that's what I managed to do, chop the bolt out both sides so the wishbone came out.
Then the steering rods were all corroded. The locking nuts fused solid to them. So I carefully cut the nut off then ran a tap down the threads to clean them up.
I realised I've got Whiteline ARBs also kaching!
Anyway all shiny bits back on the car, phew. Yes, alignment is horrible but enough to get to the tyre shop to be set correctly...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220603/cb85b8772c04ff60d36e9c68851f56ee.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220603/f47e982443d217344891d488165416d6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220603/14fe7bd66205465d00ad196d3e81b180.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220603/37826b173b22f331c9796018fa7c3981.jpg)
Then I was unsure what to do as I cannot fit my Megillian mid brace with the TRD front brace and I realized they're meant to be together... Actually the TRD brace is in bad shape, no paint left and heavily rusted. But structurally fine. Not worth trying to restore in my view so I scrubbed it up, trimmed the Megillian brace and welded them together. It turned out amazingly well all said, I was worried about heat shrinkage and variations in the manufacture of both and the car. But it bolted together beautifully!
Only 2 3rd degree burns from welding within inches of the brace lying directly under the welder but hey... It was self-cauterised [emoji23][emoji23]
Well as I say, too rusted to restore so I converted the rust to protection with my never ending jar of POR15 (it's running low but covers soo much rust) after scrubbing off all the loose rust and grease and it's looking ok. Some day I'll strip it and a few other bits and get them properly blasted, plated and powder coated. Might make a jig too if I have space and time...
Anyway here it is
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220603/57f40c0c8cd4c5af3ce859cfac112fad.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220603/197c15f0054c6f344d08bec8d5502a87.jpg)
And home safe again.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220603/ea98d68d3c3ca70046e01960ad3af90b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220603/a6a2f70895f3014e94ea60b214800216.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220603/b32b7ce23f6f7a9a20de1f887206447e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220603/5a5d1011d73387f5657c01a0f5249eb5.jpg)
PS I hope nobody is upset by my modification of an original TRD brace but like I say it was almost beyond saving and now has a new lease of life plus added benefit for bracing my car.
Cheers
Tyler
Actually just noticed I didn't take many pics of the actual work, it got dirty and uncomfortable under the car, took another 30min just cleaning up afterwards. Lots of loose rust and debris and muck fell off the car during the work not withstanding the actual chopped metal. But everything is cleaned and sprayed with TCF corrosion inhibitor so should stay healthy for a while.
Cheers
Tyler
:) hopefully next time you get burnt it will be from a day out with the roof down :)) :))
good write up with some man hrs gone in to it to bring the sunshine back out on every trip ;D ;D
keep going and hope welding disaster has not put you off for live ;D ;D
@MrT I can see you have new wishbones and Poly bushes. In your 25 April post you mentioned some Yaris arms. Is that what you used and fitted Poly bushes to .
Which arms bushes etc did you choose?
Quote from: Joesson on June 4, 2022, 16:49@MrT
I can see you have new wishbones and Poly bushes. In your 25 April post you mentioned some Yaris arms. Is that what you used and fitted Poly bushes to .
Which arms bushes etc did you choose?
Yes sir. Got the correct arms this time. 99-2006 Yaris arms. Trick is just making sure they have the ARB link hole in the correct position, there's loads for sale from motor factors or eBay etc. I just trawled for a good deal on eBay from a decent manufacturer.
I already had Polybush bushes so swapped them over. Just had to press the stock bushes out the arms and polybushes back in.
Cheers
Tyler
So I've chipped away at small jobs but spent some time getting things back together this weekend.
First I made up an exhaust hanger bracket since I don't fit the exhaust tip which had this hanger to hold the silencer back and in place. Without it the silencer twists forward and rattles against the ARB at low RPMs.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220612/286fb735205d6ab448f3ecbce61c8d53.jpg)
I refitted my parcel shelf and rear bins, partly. Bare minimum to save weight, I was horrified by how heavy the doors are but I guess that's for security. So I left them off. And a few inside trim bits that aren't seen underneath the parcel shelf now.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220612/120f7e635a39b27cab7539916be7300c.jpg)
Also put all the dashboard in, steering wheel back on, swapped bulbs in the dash to LED and reconnected the fog light switch that I hate and will change soon.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220612/08030c165bb9a9688ee8701ae678035b.jpg)
I did a small repair to a plastic cover and thought it might interest people. Who's read about this little trick to reinforce plastic when gluing it? Use a dry tea bag to give strength, like fibre glassing in miniature. Yorkshire's finest work great, and I made the tea first then washed and dried the bags hence the colour. You must use acetyl acetate something super glue, the instant dry stuff.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220613/8fcbfd930d2350003607cd02b5db0555.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220612/c2824b50ee453ffcb087a2a72ba13f02.jpg)
But first MOT on Wednesday, so I need to get the alignment done so I can give it a proper (stealthy) drive to get everything hot and running well before the test.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220613/564113dd1362256be6785647988e140c.jpg)
Cheers
Tyler
Quote from: MrT on June 12, 2022, 20:45(My photo uploads keep failing so I'll try again later) ... I'm fed up with Tapatalk, though it seems worst on MR2ROC forum...
Cheers
Tyler
Probably the only forum you visit that uses the SMF forum software.
Tapatalk have been sodding lazy with releasing the plugin for this forum software. So they've left us with this broken pile.
Joyous of them
Quote from: shnazzle on June 12, 2022, 21:37Probably the only forum you visit that uses the SMF forum software.
Tapatalk have been sodding lazy with releasing the plugin for this forum software. So they've left us with this broken pile.
Joyous of them
Not a dig at the forum Patrick. Thanks for the support.
Cheers
Tyler
So I fitted cardboard discs to the car...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220620/244309db6931a63c5d9402f4d8523d3e.jpg)
Well, failed MOT on corrosion on the discs, apparently not cleaning up enough but the abs was happy with the braking power. Anyway, turned into discs and pads all 4 corners so some caliper love also. Waiting for pads still but I threw the Pagid discs on I got from ecp on sale recently and the paint looks naff, hope they look better scrubbed in and shiny. Still not keen on the silver hub behind my wheel... Oh well.
And they took offense to me having an aftermarket steering wheel. Jerks. Never cared before but hey. Rules right, I'll put it back on when I pull the car back into the drive [emoji28][emoji28]
Hopefully after this everything mechanical and functional is rebuilt and I can relax for getting to the National meet. Then I'll start sorting my audio setup. Just keeping it simple with an amp, split door speakers and a sub, connect directly to my phone for audio and calls. I toyed with headunits and tablets in a NavPod but I'm keen on the clean empty dash look, just the AC controls. I like the floating dash also without radio/ashtray section below. Just need to cover up the wiring and airbag ECU (is that what it is?).
Cheers
Tyler