Day of confusion!
Went to get a tweak on the rolling road to get the best out of it since having a new fuel pump fitted. first run 187 at the wheels taking into account that a 20% reduction from flywheel to wheels would make it 235. Bit surprised as i have a printout from the same rolling road showing 349, less your 20 making it 279!
Was advised that there must have been an error on that print out. Did wonder why it didnt feel as quick as i tbought it should feel!
after a few tweaks is now at 277. at the wheel 221. 42 bhp gained. feels a bit quicker on ride home. will try and do a couple of runs with the race logic at some point
Take it to a non 4wd rolling road bet it makes more power.
Assume your charge cooler is doing its job?
What's your manifold and exhaust like?
2zz need proper free flow to see their best.
For comparison my turbo car made 235bhp at redline tunning and when grant had it on a local rolling road it only made 205.
What torque was it putting out?
Torque 165. Monkey wrench racing conversion manifold. Going on local dyno sat at 11am. Doing a long drive in it tomorrow so will see how I "feel" about it and do a few tests with the race logic. Have spoken to Patrick about a custom PPE style exhaust he can make and possible a smaller pulley. Might soon have a TTE exhaust and MWR exhaust manifold for sale!I its a different car , inlet etc, but Celica boys seem to be producing 300 brake with 200 torque. That really where I want to be
Do have a boost gauge?
Is it holding boost?
graph reads ok
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on April 16, 2018, 21:42
graph reads ok
What is peak boost?
I believe you were hitting around 13 psi last time it went to the road.
Dyno run at another location booked for sat morning, 90mm pulley ordered
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on April 17, 2018, 22:18
Dyno run at another location booked for sat morning, 90mm pulley ordered
Is your current pulley size incorrect?
I thought you were already running the rotrex at max rpm.
Did it come back from TTS with the wrong pulley after your warranty claim?
If you over spin it you will void any remaining warranty.
Just to add that I would get a power run for comparison but I wouldn't make any changes to the mapping.
There could be loads of things causing issues.
Just over spinning the rotrex won't be the answer.
This is why I am going the turbo route, no pulleys to need to swap out, just adjust the boost pressure via the wastegate.
Quote from: m1tch on April 18, 2018, 07:42
This is why I am going the turbo route, no pulleys to need to swap out, just adjust the boost pressure via the wastegate.
No just massive engine bay temps and the associated high oil/coolant temps that go with them.
When a turbo is maxed out it's maxed out.
If it's the same rotrex and pulley as mine then it's maxed out.
And I am using a wastegate/Bov to adjust the boost pressure.
That 90mm pulley should be good for 360+ brake on the 2zz, but you'd only want that on a built engine of course.
Personally I'd go as small as possible for max low down grunt & pull the fuel cut back. Ideally on a 90 pulley that'd mean a paltry 7200 limit, but you have to take in to account how many times you'll actually be up there. So 7800 would be my choice whilst aiming to change gear at 7500.
That might sound low for a 2zz, but with beefier cams & PPE manifold thrown in the mix, I never felt like it was ruining the experience.
Quote from: J03 on April 18, 2018, 09:26
That 90mm pulley should be good for 360+ brake on the 2zz, but you'd only want that on a built engine of course.
Personally I'd go as small as possible for max low down grunt & pull the fuel cut back. Ideally on a 90 pulley that'd mean a paltry 7200 limit, but you have to take in to account how many times you'll actually be up there. So 7800 would be my choice whilst aiming to change gear at 7500.
That might sound low for a 2zz, but with beefier cams & PPE manifold thrown in the mix, I never felt like it was ruining the experience.
Do you know how many rpm the rotrex will be doing with a 90mm pulley on a 2zz?
Aye too much at the top end ;D At max revs ~ 13.8% over what's recommended.
Max input Shaft speed on C30-94 is 10,500
On a 90mm pulley a 7200rpm limiter would stop you from over spinning, if you were to keep 8200rpm limiter it would over spin to 11950 ish.
7500rpm ~ 10795 (4.1% over spin)
7800rpm ~ 11100 (8.3% over spin)
Quote from: J03 on April 18, 2018, 11:05
Aye too much at the top end ;D At max revs ~ 13.8% over what's recommended.
Max input Shaft speed on C30-94 is 10,500
On a 90mm pulley a 7200rpm limiter would stop you from over spinning, if you were to keep 8200rpm limiter it would over spin to 11950 ish.
7500rpm ~ 10795 (4.1% over spin)
7800rpm ~ 11100 (8.3% over spin)
Very thoroughly explained.
For me it's far too expensive a unit to overspin.
A cheapo eBay turbo it is not.
Quote from: 1979scotte on April 18, 2018, 13:24
Quote from: J03 on April 18, 2018, 11:05
Aye too much at the top end ;D At max revs ~ 13.8% over what's recommended.
Max input Shaft speed on C30-94 is 10,500
On a 90mm pulley a 7200rpm limiter would stop you from over spinning, if you were to keep 8200rpm limiter it would over spin to 11950 ish.
7500rpm ~ 10795 (4.1% over spin)
7800rpm ~ 11100 (8.3% over spin)
Very thoroughly explained.
For me it's far too expensive a unit to overspin.
A cheapo eBay turbo it is not.
How much is the C30-94? I am looking to spend around £1.2k or so on an EFR turbo which should be good for my power goals - still tempted with the supercharger though.
Quote from: m1tch on April 18, 2018, 16:06
Quote from: 1979scotte on April 18, 2018, 13:24
Quote from: J03 on April 18, 2018, 11:05
Aye too much at the top end ;D At max revs ~ 13.8% over what's recommended.
Max input Shaft speed on C30-94 is 10,500
On a 90mm pulley a 7200rpm limiter would stop you from over spinning, if you were to keep 8200rpm limiter it would over spin to 11950 ish.
7500rpm ~ 10795 (4.1% over spin)
7800rpm ~ 11100 (8.3% over spin)
Very thoroughly explained.
For me it's far too expensive a unit to overspin.
A cheapo eBay turbo it is not.
How much is the C30-94? I am looking to spend around £1.2k or so on an EFR turbo which should be good for my power goals - still tempted with the supercharger though.
1700
Quote from: 1979scotte on April 18, 2018, 16:12
Quote from: m1tch on April 18, 2018, 16:06
Quote from: 1979scotte on April 18, 2018, 13:24
Quote from: J03 on April 18, 2018, 11:05
Aye too much at the top end ;D At max revs ~ 13.8% over what's recommended.
Max input Shaft speed on C30-94 is 10,500
On a 90mm pulley a 7200rpm limiter would stop you from over spinning, if you were to keep 8200rpm limiter it would over spin to 11950 ish.
7500rpm ~ 10795 (4.1% over spin)
7800rpm ~ 11100 (8.3% over spin)
Very thoroughly explained.
For me it's far too expensive a unit to overspin.
A cheapo eBay turbo it is not.
How much is the C30-94? I am looking to spend around £1.2k or so on an EFR turbo which should be good for my power goals - still tempted with the supercharger though.
1700
Do they do any supercharger larger? Looking for between 42 lb/min and 51 lb/min of airflow for my build.
I think installation is easier and should cost less? So you can attribute some of the money you'd spend on the plumbing etc to the higher cost of the Rotrex...
Quote from: m1tch on April 18, 2018, 16:19
Do they do any supercharger larger? Looking for between 42 lb/min and 51 lb/min of airflow for my build.
C38 series 8)
Quote from: jvanzyl on April 18, 2018, 16:22
I think installation is easier and should cost less? So you can attribute some of the money you'd spend on the plumbing etc to the higher cost of the Rotrex...
Its why I am still looking at a Rotrex as I believe it bolts up to the idler pulley meaning its a case of running pipework to a charge cooler and not needing to worry about a different downpipe etc.
Quote from: J03 on April 18, 2018, 16:30
Quote from: m1tch on April 18, 2018, 16:19
Do they do any supercharger larger? Looking for between 42 lb/min and 51 lb/min of airflow for my build.
C38 series 8)
Hmm looks like a C38-71 might do it :)
Quote from: m1tch on April 18, 2018, 16:34
Quote from: J03 on April 18, 2018, 16:30
Quote from: m1tch on April 18, 2018, 16:19
Do they do any supercharger larger? Looking for between 42 lb/min and 51 lb/min of airflow for my build.
C38 series 8)
Hmm looks like a C38-71 might do it :)
They don't recommend c38 for such small capacity engines.
Quote from: 1979scotte on April 18, 2018, 16:37
Quote from: m1tch on April 18, 2018, 16:34
Quote from: J03 on April 18, 2018, 16:30
Quote from: m1tch on April 18, 2018, 16:19
Do they do any supercharger larger? Looking for between 42 lb/min and 51 lb/min of airflow for my build.
C38 series 8)
Hmm looks like a C38-71 might do it :)
They don't recommend c38 for such small capacity engines.
Looks like the Honda S2000 kit uses a C38-81 although that is a larger engine - might be good for those who are bored out to 82mm on the 1zz, but it seems that the supercharger route is good for those going for between 3-400 whereas I don't want to be stressing the turbo out too much at 400.
Only 2zz's I know of which had a C38 fitted, were also stroked to 2.0L
Look up Bumblebee's track Celica, he runs a C30 / 90mm pulley combo & is pushing a very meaty 435bhp / 285lbft ;)
power run on sat with the 105mm pulley supplied by rotrex. 90mm one works out at 7400 rpm to avoid overspinning. my stage 2 cams kick in at 5500, new pulley arrives tomorrow, will see how easy it is to swapn over and see if I can get another power run at same session
That 90mm pulley should be good for 360+ brake on the 2zz, but you'd only want that on a built engine of course.
Personally I'd go as small as possible for max low down grunt & pull the fuel cut back. Ideally on a 90 pulley that'd mean a paltry 7200 limit, but you have to take in to account how many times you'll actually be up there. So 7800 would be my choice whilst aiming to change gear at 7500.
That might sound low for a 2zz, but with beefier cams & PPE manifold thrown in the mix, I never felt like it was ruining the experience.
What pulley , set up are you running and with what numbers?
My old setup used a 100mm pulley as far as I remember, large intercooler, STI MAF, 630cc injectors & Walbro 255 fuel pump.
It hit 346, pulled back to 335 with an 8k limit.
Quote from: J03 on April 18, 2018, 18:01
Only 2zz's I know of which had a C38 fitted, were also stroked to 2.0L
Look up Bumblebee's track Celica, he runs a C30 / 90mm pulley combo & is pushing a very meaty 435bhp / 285lbft ;)
Hmm that's interesting, will try and find the thread, torque is also in check as the upgraded gearset is apparently rated to 400nm - 295 ft/lbs.
Fitted 80mm pulley sunday, got right size v belt on tonight. Took it for a quick spin, seems to have more low down grunt and certainly more go mid range, but might be my imagination though!. Car booked in for dyno session Tuesday after noon. Rev limit for this pulley is 7400rpm, cams come in at 5500. Car rev limit at the mo is 7500. Am looking forward to the final result
had dyno session tuesday. car pulls stronger with smaller pulley. car was mapped up to circa 6000 rpm. power trailed off. was told that they felt "lift" was not working. checked it over. wiring etc all ok. ecu is switched on but would seem to not be sending the signal to make it work.....going back to link supplier and tuner on sunday whilst i am away on holiday to look into it and hopfully sort. wheel bhp was circa 252 at just over 6000 rpm, so hopefull of a nice figure once lift issue is sorted. back from holiday 19th. should collect car same day
That is where all power went.
Could be as simple as muck in the filter.
Glad there is progress.
VVTI etc works mechanically, wiring and solenoid ok, am told that ECU is not sending signal to make it all work
Would be surprised if there was a problem with the Link.
They have lifetime warranty.
Anyway like I said you seem to be getting to the bottom of it.
Dropped car off to tuner today. He has been talking to Link about how the ECU has been set up. Looks like lift is switching on then turning off straight away. Hopefully its just going to be a fairly simple session on the dyno to make some adjustments to have lift working and release those top end horses!. Get back from holiday sunday 19th, hope to collect straight from Gatwick!
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on May 3, 2018, 23:52
VVTI etc works mechanically, wiring and solenoid ok, am told that ECU is not sending signal to make it all work
I've only got a 1ZZ, so never diagnosed this myself, but from what little I know:
The 2ZZ is VVTLi, so it is a little more than just VVTi, so there are some electronic components - the lift does have a few conditions that need to be met to activate the OCV (oil control valve) that pushes control plate that allows the 2nd cam profile to have an effect.
In theory there needs to be an input to the OCV that tells it that the water temp is up (65C?) and that the engine speed is at the lift point (somewhere over 6000rpm).
I'm not sure if that data goes via the ECU and then there needs to be an output from the ECU to the OCV or if this logic is all handled independently.
Assuming the OCV + hydraulics to activate lift are all working okay, then somewhere along the line the signal for the water temp and engine speed either isn't being captured or transmitted properly to the OCV.
Sorry, possibly not of too much use, but just making sure you're not looking for a purely mechanical issue.
I assume that the lift bolts have been changed?
Lift bolts done last year. Am told that lift is working mechanically. Think it is just a configuration thing on Ecu. Am told car will be back on Dino this week
Car not ready... Some damaged wires sorted, waiting for new lamba sensor, hopefully dyno after that's fitted and get car working spot on. Hopefully a nigh ttime collection this week
Turns out lift solenoid has packed up along with lamba sensor. Both parts ordered, hope fully fitted and then onto dyno and ready for Sat if my luck holds
Glad you've got it sorted.
Thought it would be something mechanical.
Think it must have failed a while ago, possible during first mapping session as printed figure was great but I always felt that it didn't feel as quick as it should have done, also no jump in power when lift should have been coming in, thought that the charger may have masked the lift point. so, am hoping that it will now go into lift at 5500 as max rpm for charger with the smaller pulley is now 7500. fingers crossed that bits arrive, get fitted and mapped in time for me to collect sat. got a nice 60 mile trip early sun morning!
Lift and lamba sensors now fitted, lift now working . Now got misfire at high revs on dyno for final mapping..... Plugs looking old and cracking in coils so next step is for them to be renewed and final dyno. hope to collect one night in time to drive it , clean it before meet up on sunday!
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on May 22, 2018, 20:19
Think it must have failed a while ago, possible during first mapping session as printed figure was great but I always felt that it didn't feel as quick as it should have done, also no jump in power when lift should have been coming in,
I hope it turns out as you want it but I think that the lack of torque from a rotrex 2zz setup the linear way it delivers power and entering lift at lower rpm may make it FEEL slower than other cars you have driven. Either larger capacity engines or turbos.
Any roadster with over 200 bhp is a quick car yours with 350 is just mental.
think it will all be good, don't think lift has worked since rotrex has been fitted so have never had the full power that it should have had. Hope to perhaps get thursday night, sat morning at the latest, might make it to hatton park!
parts hopefully arrive friday. going
to be touch and go to get ready for weekend and sunday meet up......
Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
I'm just eyeing up the 90mm pulley getting you 220bhp-250bhp at the wheels..... WITHOUT lift working :)
Definitely makes a Rotrex'd 1ZZ sound like a good idea!
Quote from: BahnStormer on May 30, 2018, 12:16
I'm just eyeing up the 90mm pulley getting you 220bhp-250bhp at the wheels..... WITHOUT lift working :)
Definitely makes a Rotrex'd 1ZZ sound like a good idea!
Until you bring cost into the equation.
Genuine Garrett gt2860rs 800 quid.
Any rotrex C30 1700 quid.
parade rainer.... :P :P :P
How much incl install though? Rotrex kit (based on se7en price) is £4.7k... and a turbo build is ~£3k? Maybe £4k for genuine Garrett + standalone ECU?
Quote from: 1979scotte on May 30, 2018, 14:27
Quote from: BahnStormer on May 30, 2018, 12:16
I'm just eyeing up the 90mm pulley getting you 220bhp-250bhp at the wheels..... WITHOUT lift working :)
Definitely makes a Rotrex'd 1ZZ sound like a good idea!
Until you bring cost into the equation.
Genuine Garrett gt2860rs 800 quid.
Any rotrex C30 1700 quid.
Quote from: BahnStormer on May 30, 2018, 16:12
parade rainer.... :P :P :P
How much incl install though? Rotrex kit (based on se7en price) is £4.7k... and a turbo build is ~£3k? Maybe £4k for genuine Garrett + standalone ECU?
Quote from: 1979scotte on May 30, 2018, 14:27
Quote from: BahnStormer on May 30, 2018, 12:16
I'm just eyeing up the 90mm pulley getting you 220bhp-250bhp at the wheels..... WITHOUT lift working :)
Definitely makes a Rotrex'd 1ZZ sound like a good idea!
Until you bring cost into the equation.
Genuine Garrett gt2860rs 800 quid.
Any rotrex C30 1700 quid.
I would think turbo build would be 4k with full standalone.
Seven kit only comes with power FC and for me that loads of money for ancient tech.
Quote from: 1979scotte on May 30, 2018, 17:11
Seven kit only comes with power FC and for me that loads of money for ancient tech.
To be fair - they might be doing something different now, but that was the last time they bothered updating that page...
What would be the more modern equivalent to the Apexi FC Commander? I'm asking as many of these questions now, so I don't need to next year!!
Pretty sure they use g4 link now so I doubt the cost is the same. Their website hasn't been updated in years.
Quote from: mikek on May 30, 2018, 18:53
Pretty sure they use g4 link now so I doubt the cost is the same. Their website hasn't been updated in years.
If they use a storm it will be 500 quid dearer if not more.
Monsoon would be good for 1zz.
Latest. Dyno wouldnt work, fixed late that day... Car had misfire at 6600. now waiting for new ignition coils to arrive on sat. get fitted, on dyno, fingers crossed!. Might make it to the show sunday....
early train to Rye yesterday, 6.15am.... Hung around for coils to arrive, 11.30, fit, down to dyno, 1 hour later, 324 bhp, 224 torque. Now feels like a 300 hp light car!. Home at 3.30pm, clean it, 6am start today to meets others for the ride to national show day. Great day out and good company.
Cost a small fortune to sort this issue out. Those tuning/dyno guys dont come cheap....
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on June 3, 2018, 22:14
early train to Rye yesterday, 6.15am.... Hung around for coils to arrive, 11.30, fit, down to dyno, 1 hour later, 324 bhp, 224 torque. Now feels like a 300 hp light car!. Home at 3.30pm, clean it, 6am start today to meets others for the ride to national show day. Great day out and good company.
Cost a small fortune to sort this issue out. Those tuning/dyno guys dont come cheap....
I'm guessing you are enjoying that!
So far so good!
Awesome news. Glad it worked out
Quote from: 1979scotte on May 30, 2018, 17:11
Quote from: BahnStormer on May 30, 2018, 16:12
parade rainer.... :P :P :P
How much incl install though? Rotrex kit (based on se7en price) is £4.7k... and a turbo build is ~£3k? Maybe £4k for genuine Garrett + standalone ECU?
Quote from: 1979scotte on May 30, 2018, 14:27
Quote from: BahnStormer on May 30, 2018, 12:16
I'm just eyeing up the 90mm pulley getting you 220bhp-250bhp at the wheels..... WITHOUT lift working :)
Definitely makes a Rotrex'd 1ZZ sound like a good idea!
Until you bring cost into the equation.
Genuine Garrett gt2860rs 800 quid.
Any rotrex C30 1700 quid.
I would think turbo build would be 4k with full standalone.
Seven kit only comes with power FC and for me that loads of money for ancient tech.
Yeah, thanks: I'm getting prices coming in around £2500 for entry level (T28 knock-off, DET, but incl turbo timer...), but minimal rolling road time.
Around £4k for front mounted chargecooler, standalone ECU, proper GT25, possibly more if you want to really fine tune it on a RR.... like @KRAMSNEHPETS (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=18710) said, RR guys don't come cheap.
Quote from: BahnStormer on June 5, 2018, 06:25
Quote from: 1979scotte on May 30, 2018, 17:11
Quote from: BahnStormer on May 30, 2018, 16:12
parade rainer.... [emoji14] [emoji14] [emoji14]
How much incl install though? Rotrex kit (based on se7en price) is £4.7k... and a turbo build is ~£3k? Maybe £4k for genuine Garrett + standalone ECU?
Quote from: 1979scotte on May 30, 2018, 14:27
Quote from: BahnStormer on May 30, 2018, 12:16
I'm just eyeing up the 90mm pulley getting you 220bhp-250bhp at the wheels..... WITHOUT lift working :)
Definitely makes a Rotrex'd 1ZZ sound like a good idea!
Until you bring cost into the equation.
Genuine Garrett gt2860rs 800 quid.
Any rotrex C30 1700 quid.
I would think turbo build would be 4k with full standalone.
Seven kit only comes with power FC and for me that loads of money for ancient tech.
Yeah, thanks: I'm getting prices coming in around £2500 for entry level (T28 knock-off, DET, but incl turbo timer...), but minimal rolling road time.
Around £4k for front mounted chargecooler, standalone ECU, proper GT25, possibly more if you want to really fine tune it on a RR.... like @KRAMSNEHPETS (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=18710) said, RR guys don't come cheap.
As ChrisGB told me, "turbo lives and dies by it's map." And given what we've been through in that regards... Please do yourself a favour and see the "fine tuning" as a requirement,not a perk. Whichever option you choose. Even if it's not straight away to split costs.
Quote from: shnazzle on June 5, 2018, 07:57
Quote from: BahnStormer on June 5, 2018, 06:25
Quote from: 1979scotte on May 30, 2018, 17:11
Quote from: BahnStormer on May 30, 2018, 16:12
parade rainer.... [emoji14] [emoji14] [emoji14]
How much incl install though? Rotrex kit (based on se7en price) is £4.7k... and a turbo build is ~£3k? Maybe £4k for genuine Garrett + standalone ECU?
Quote from: 1979scotte on May 30, 2018, 14:27
Quote from: BahnStormer on May 30, 2018, 12:16
I'm just eyeing up the 90mm pulley getting you 220bhp-250bhp at the wheels..... WITHOUT lift working :)
Definitely makes a Rotrex'd 1ZZ sound like a good idea!
Until you bring cost into the equation.
Genuine Garrett gt2860rs 800 quid.
Any rotrex C30 1700 quid.
I would think turbo build would be 4k with full standalone.
Seven kit only comes with power FC and for me that loads of money for ancient tech.
Yeah, thanks: I'm getting prices coming in around £2500 for entry level (T28 knock-off, DET, but incl turbo timer...), but minimal rolling road time.
Around £4k for front mounted chargecooler, standalone ECU, proper GT25, possibly more if you want to really fine tune it on a RR.... like @KRAMSNEHPETS (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=18710) said, RR guys don't come cheap.
As ChrisGB told me, "turbo lives and dies by it's map." And given what we've been through in that regards... Please do yourself a favour and see the "fine tuning" as a requirement,not a perk. Whichever option you choose. Even if it's not straight away to split costs.
Have pretty much decided I agree with Pat.
Piggback is only temporary on your way to a proper ECU.
Full standalone may not increase your power but its going to be better in so many other ways.
I think I would take a chance on a cheap turbo put the money towards quality electronics.
Quote from: shnazzle on June 5, 2018, 07:57
As ChrisGB told me, "turbo lives and dies by it's map." And given what we've been through in that regards... Please do yourself a favour and see the "fine tuning" as a requirement,not a perk. Whichever option you choose. Even if it's not straight away to split costs.
Yep - I agree a RR run is a must, but if you have turbo components that are capable of 300wbhp+ (assuming a built engine) and you're only looking for ~210wbhp (stock gearbox + non-built engine), then I assume a budget of <£200 for ~2h on a RR should be sufficient to ensure a nice, clean power delivery... then if more power is desired at a later date, I'll factor in a built engine, new clutch, etc... along with another 5h+ on the dyno...
Sorry - sidetracking from the 2ZZ / Rotrex side of this chat!!
Quote from: BahnStormer on June 5, 2018, 11:14
Quote from: shnazzle on June 5, 2018, 07:57
As ChrisGB told me, "turbo lives and dies by it's map." And given what we've been through in that regards... Please do yourself a favour and see the "fine tuning" as a requirement,not a perk. Whichever option you choose. Even if it's not straight away to split costs.
Yep - I agree a RR run is a must, but if you have turbo components that are capable of 300wbhp+ (assuming a built engine) and you're only looking for ~210wbhp (stock gearbox + non-built engine), then I assume a budget of <£200 for ~2h on a RR should be sufficient to ensure a nice, clean power delivery... then if more power is desired at a later date, I'll factor in a built engine, new clutch, etc... along with another 5h+ on the dyno...
Sorry - sidetracking from the 2ZZ / Rotrex side of this chat!!
engine knocking.........
Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
Bottom end, or some knock? Not good either way.
Don't know yet, sounds like botttom. Will sort out trailer and transport to headcase. Gutted. Done 400 miles since I got it all sorted.
Wow! that's some sh1tty luck pal :(
Sump off, end caps off, spun a shell... Ordering new shells tomorrow, wet and dry crank and put together. weekend may be up and running
If the budget allows, I'd throw a set of performance ACL/King big end bearings in there & uprated ARP rod end bolts ;)
Just run engine up, still got the knock.... Engine will will have to come out and be stripped down. Give me suggestions what to do whilst out, Already has stage 2 cams. Talk to me about pistons, rods and bearings etc
Uprated oil pump and oil cooler?
Am thnking along these liNES
ACL Race Main Bearings
ACL Race Big End Bearings
Track Group Forged Race Pistons
Track Group Billet EN-24(4340) H-Beam Connecting Rods
Track Group Xylan coated Oil Pump with uprated EN-24 Steel Gears
ARP Rod Bolts
Uprated Main bolts
Personally I wouldn't bother with uprated conrods, the stock ones are more than adequate on your setup. Even with more power, the gearbox will sh*t itself looonnng before throwing a rod.
The rotrex is only good for 400 ish reliable horsepower.
On a 2zz it's never going to make enough torque to bend a rod.
Tbh mate if you've got the dosh for that lot bin the C series gearbox get an E153 and fit a big turbo.
Can't believe it's not stupid fast as it is tbh.
Yeah I'm not sure how you do it.
I can't even imagine how another 80hp feels over the turbo 1zz.
How fast do you want this thing to be? With 325 you must already be in serious supercar territory
not looking for more power. want it to be reliably at what it is now
Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
Think it will be crank grind, acl shells, uprated oil pump and at the suggestion of headcase low comp pistons
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on June 22, 2018, 22:28
Think it will be crank grind, acl shells, uprated oil pump and at the suggestion of headcase low comp pistons
You need to decide if you want bi metal or tri metal bearings, luckily the 2zz is fairly well supported in terms of bearing choices unlike the 1zz.
Also worth adding an Accusump oil accumulator to the list.
Seem to be heading for a darton sleeved block with low comp pistons, balanced crank etc!
Sleeved block on its way . Low comp pistons, uprated oil pump, bearing etc to be ordered. Headcase to build a new short motor, will trailer car down to him to transfer my head over etc when he has it ready. Run it in for 1000 miles (1 week last time) then get the map tweaked, should end up with a strong powerful experience!
Try not to break this one.
Yes M!
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Sleeved 2zz block has arrived and is with headcase. Is at engineers being measured etc to order correct low comp pistons and bearings etc. Will have uprated oil pump and head gasket, arp bolts etc. Will deliver car to bexhill on sea once bottom end is built to have engine removed and my head fitted to new block. Have also placed an order for a Megillian racing 2 ZZ 2.5" exhaust system. Have been told that once run in and finally mapped it should be circa 370 bhp. Exhaust will be 6 weeks time. Car back on road mid sept, missed all the lovely summer weather...
Little update
Megillian exhaust arrived. Due to trailer car car to headcase 22nd sept as by then he should have a built up short motor to transfer my head to. sleeved block, low comp pistons, arp bolts , acl bearing etc. Also going for an oil cooler, Hope to get it back after a week to run it in for a 1000 miles and then get the map tweaked to release its full potential
Delays.... Pistons not due in for another 3 weeks. Block has then got to be bored to match. All other bits have arrived, bearings , oil pump, studs, oil cooler etc. Work commitments and 30th year of marriage weekend away means i will not get car to headcase until mid October.... On road end of October i guess. Its a long wait
Congrats on the 30th wedding anniversary!
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Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on September 10, 2018, 21:46
Delays.... Pistons not due in for another 3 weeks. Block has then got to be bored to match. All other bits have arrived, bearings , oil pump, studs, oil cooler etc. Work commitments and 30th year of marriage weekend away means i will not get car to headcase until mid October.... On road end of October i guess. Its a long wait
What bearings did you go with in the end?
ACL I believe
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on September 11, 2018, 19:32
ACL I believe
Which sort though? Bi metal or Trimetal? Just wondering as I am going to be running Bi metal King bearings in my build.
As far as I know the bi metal type are mainly OEM replacement, whereas the tri metal "Race Series" are uprated. The tri metal versions should take higher loading for longer durations.
Quote from: J03 on September 12, 2018, 09:07
As far as I know the bi metal type are mainly OEM replacement, whereas the tri metal "Race Series" are uprated. The tri metal versions should take higher loading for longer durations.
I believe the OEM Daido/Taiho Toyota bearings are Trimetal which is interesting.
Pistons have now arrived! They are due to be dropped off to engineering shop so that the block can be machined to match them. Hope to deliver car to headcase 6th Oct and get it all under way. Hope to have it fitted, all run in and mapped by end of October. Cant wait but have to...
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on September 27, 2018, 20:38
Pistons have now arrived! They are due to be dropped off to engineering shop so that the block can be machined to match them. Hope to deliver car to headcase 6th Oct and get it all under way. Hope to have it fitted, all run in and mapped by end of October. Cant wait but have to...
What compression ratio did you go with? Did you go for the standard 82mm or bore out further to 82.5mm?
MAHLE 9.0:1 COMPRESSION 82MM, I think
How's the build going?
getting there, block being built up, hope to hear that it will be fitted tail end of next week. am also busy now building a 2zz track day car!!
Not long now, engine back in car with low comp pistons,uprated oil pump, acl race bearings etc. Might be able to collect sat am. Have a week of running it in then back to tuner sat 1st dec for map tweak. Hoping to be circa 380 bhp
That'll do nicely!
lets hope so, with reliability!. Sold your car yet
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on November 20, 2018, 21:34
lets hope so, with reliability!. Sold your car yet
No, not yet. Going to have a go as wider advertising base when I get time!
would have been good for you to take me for a spin in it!
all being well, collecting car tomorrow night, just insured it with all mods etc, £542
collection now tuesday afternoon
Car now back with me after a long drive home in darkness and rain. Got to do a few miles in it, change oil circa 500 miles then a final dyno on 8th dec. Need alignment checking as back end feels very twitchy after having subframe off car. Looking forward to seeing what the end result is. Next day on 9th is day at snetterton in the other 2!
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on November 27, 2018, 21:18
Car now back with me after a long drive home in darkness and rain. Got to do a few miles in it, change oil circa 500 miles then a final dyno on 8th dec. Need alignment checking as back end feels very twitchy after having subframe off car. Looking forward to seeing what the end result is. Next day on 9th is day at snetterton in the other 2!
Finally got her back, can you do some vids of the dyno mapping. Love to see the figures it will pull.
booked for sat 8th
700 miles done, new oil and filter today, on the rolling road tomorrow at 8.30am, fingers crossed that it all goes well
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on December 7, 2018, 18:40
700 miles done, new oil and filter today, on the rolling road tomorrow at 8.30am, fingers crossed that it all goes well
0830?
Does Gary get up that early?
Hope its finally what you want.
Quote from: 1979scotte on December 7, 2018, 20:19
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on December 7, 2018, 18:40
700 miles done, new oil and filter today, on the rolling road tomorrow at 8.30am, fingers crossed that it all goes well
0830?
Does Gary get up that early?
Hope its finally what you want.
hopefully good reliable power. yes he said 8.30. when your ls be ready
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Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on December 7, 2018, 21:00
Quote from: 1979scotte on December 7, 2018, 20:19
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on December 7, 2018, 18:40
700 miles done, new oil and filter today, on the rolling road tomorrow at 8.30am, fingers crossed that it all goes well
0830?
Does Gary get up that early?
Hope its finally what you want.
hopefully good reliable power. yes he said 8.30. when your ls be ready
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Mine?
Sometime next century i would imagine.
Could you do a write-up on your current spec on the engine?
Road car 2zz rotrex hit the dyno yesterday. got a bit hot when the fuelling was being done. got go look at why fuel supply trails off at at 7500... 199 torque. fly bhp works out to circa 325. was hoping to be a fair way above that like the celica boys are. hopefully it all happens in the last 1000 rpm.
90 mile drive home. all was well until I did a high speed 3rd gear run. have lost some power. stopped at petrol station to find engine lid jammed shut!!!!. thinking a hose has come off as I can here charger working or the cat has fallen to bits!. will try and look at during the week
Oh the joys of modified cars.
Hope its something simple.
Suspect its cat, look on the 2zz forum on facebook, put a video on there, whole exhaust was glowing red hot. car being looked tomorrow bymy local man to see what issue is after getting engine lid open , think he may have to remove exhaust to get to release!
cat had collapsed and engine release cable outer cover had melted.... Ct has now been gutted and performance now back to normal, now got to find out why fuel supply trails off at 7500rpm
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on December 13, 2018, 22:41
cat had collapsed and engine release cable outer cover had melted.... Ct has now been gutted and performance now back to normal, now got to find out why fuel supply trails off at 7500rpm
What fuel pump are you using and do you have a rising rate fpr?
Quote from: ChrisGB on December 13, 2018, 22:46
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on December 13, 2018, 22:41
cat had collapsed and engine release cable outer cover had melted.... Ct has now been gutted and performance now back to normal, now got to find out why fuel supply trails off at 7500rpm
What fuel pump are you using and do you have a rising rate fpr?
will have to ask Patrick what he fitted etc. think it was monkey wrench racing one
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Any updates on this build?
No news really. All OK and running fine, Have got to get a new rear silencer as the one is fitted is to loud. Will go back on rolling road after as last time the cat melted. May have been the issue why power was dropping away above 7000 rpm. Want to see it revving up to 8500 prodcing full power
Have you got this running near it's redline yet?
Would be superb to get a review and some videos of it.
not yet. new exhaust silencer on 27th and on dyno 4th may to see what can be done
Went to visit Steve Norris today, Megallian Motor sport to have exhaust modified , to loud (orders from wife). Not gone exactly to plan, need to move battery from where it is now ( behind rear light) for exhaust to fit properly and found lamba sensor destroyed where it has been rubbing against a sheild. so am now on way home on train ( expensive), will have to collect one night this week to get it to TDI at Thurrock for the hub dyno session that it is booked in for at 9am next Sat. Had a bit of fun on the way up here, left and Audi S3 driver looking a bit surprised! All friendly, gave me a way when he left the motorway
So, if all goes to plan, relocated battery, new exhaust box, on dyno to get it to fuel beyond 7500 rpm, i hope with revised BHP and torque numbers. Oh and have also got to get trackday car to headcase next weekend as well. good job its a bank holday next weekend!
Road car on hub dyno today at Torque developments international at Thurrock.Vey happy with results. Charge cooler is working well at keeping temps down. Engine now revving up to 8200, lift comes in at 4000. Numbers are 319 at the wheels, allowing 12% lose, at fly wheel, 363, 286nm torque at 7000. Feels pretty quick!
Was advised to look at sir filter size and location to improve air flow
Good result.
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