Right then!
Thought I better get one of these started!
Picked this up from Facebook a couple of weeks ago. I was originally looking for a cooper S or Clio 182, but then this caught my eye. The wife had one 5 or 6 years ago and I remembered how much I enjoyed giving it a good thrashing when she wasn't watching!
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7870/40387107333_bae8ca03ee_z.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7802/40387107773_c981c4cced_b.jpg)
Initial impressions have been really good.
£2.5k with 100k on the clock but feels like its done much less, paint work is near spotless on it in fact its nearly too nice to track.
Plans are to sort the handling, then add extra power.
At the moment its sitting on Tein lowering springs, with a TTE exhaust and apart from debadging is standard as far as I can see.
By adding extra power I intend to build a DIY turbo set up.
So far, I have or have on order the following:
T3 Turbo manifold (look like a Black Label one) Cast
TD04 15t Turbo, manifold will need some buggeration to make it fit, I've got some adaptors on order failing that chop and re-weld manifold.
Full Brace set from Megillian Motorsport
Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, Boost and Wide band AFR gauges and senders.
Intercooler pipework from a previous project.
Braided Brake Lines.
13 Row Oil cooler and sandwich plate.
New Sump.
Corbeau Leather Reclining Seats (literally just won on ebay) Bought on a wim but prefer recliners to full on buckets (for now!)
Next big thing on the list is Engine Management, its looking likely I will go down the ECU Master route on the group buy, but haven't had chance to get in contact with them yet.
With it being a weekend/track car and not a daily I'm not too fussed about over stressing the engine and pushing it to its limits as I'll probably go down the 2ZZ forged route worst case.
Forum so far has been brilliant and really useful looking forward to becoming more of a part of it.
Cheers
Gary
Love me a project. Looking forward to seeing progress.
The king of DIY turbo builds happens to live here and goes by Dan.
He's got all the info and tips anybody could ever need for DIY turbos.
Definitely sort the handling first.
After 100k if the suspension is original it will be well past its best.
Good quality track orientated tyres are a must imho.
Consider fitting a charge cooler intake temps can be very high unless you can find room for a massive intercooler.
Forged 2zz isn't really worth the effort imho. A stock 2zz can take over 300bhp because it creates so little torque. If you want to push it harder than that the gearbox can become an issue.
Enjoy.
Ahh wasn't aware the 2zz was capable of that.. interesting.
Gauges have all just turned up at work this morning.
Interesting will follow as its a option for me in future.
Ian
Quote from: Gaz2405 on March 12, 2019, 09:31
Ahh wasn't aware the 2zz was capable of that.. interesting.
Gauges have all just turned up at work this morning.
Also if you are looking for big power a 2gr V6 will give you around 300bhp stock but with low down torque no 4 pot can match.
Sounds better too imho.
Ooohhh...hello.
Love a turbo build.
I'll throw my 2p in and do with it what you will.
Scott is absolutely on point as usual. My car is almost at 100k and full suspension refresh was required.
Look at Yaris wishbones. (Cheap!!)
And general revamp of all bushes. Probably poly if your going track.
Engine mount bushes are a must in my opinion. Especially with the extra torque of the turbo. Mine was unbearable without putting new ones in. I used BRD ones. (Lou Brooks). I also made a mk2 version of Caroline's head steady.
I recommend a re circ valve.
Take advantage of the Ecumaster group buy if you can. Your build will only be as good as the map.
Mine is at the "limit" of Gearbox torque at just 8.2psi. I'd like to think that means longevity will be good?
Intake temps are ok but not great. Recommend a charge cooler. There's testing that proves the cheap eBay ones are very effective (spyder Lees YouTube channel)
Get the ally sump. I went with OBX but whatever you want really. The extra capacity helps massively with engine cooling. That was proven on the dyno in 30 degree weather.
Hope this helps.
Quote from: dan944 on March 12, 2019, 16:16
Ooohhh...hello.
Love a turbo build.
I'll throw my 2p in and do with it what you will.
Scott is absolutely on point as usual. My car is almost at 100k and full suspension refresh was required.
Look at Yaris wishbones. (Cheap!!)
And general revamp of all bushes. Probably poly if your going track.
Engine mount bushes are a must in my opinion. Especially with the extra torque of the turbo. Mine was unbearable without putting new ones in. I used BRD ones. (Lou Brooks). I also made a mk2 version of Caroline's head steady.
I recommend a re circ valve.
Take advantage of the Ecumaster group buy if you can. Your build will only be as good as the map.
Mine is at the "limit" of Gearbox torque at just 8.2psi. I'd like to think that means longevity will be good?
Intake temps are ok but not great. Recommend a charge cooler. There's testing that proves the cheap eBay ones are very effective (spyder Lees YouTube channel)
Get the ally sump. I went with OBX but whatever you want really. The extra capacity helps massively with engine cooling. That was proven on the dyno in 30 degree weather.
Hope this helps.
Cheers Dan.
Have looked at the OBX sump, but got for a standard one to start, do many track MR2's have issues with oil starvation? As I may go baffled.
Hopefully getting the car up on the ramps at my brother in laws garage to have a check of bushes and suspension. (Check them out on FB https://www.facebook.com/pg/speedshopuk/posts/?ref=page_internal ) They do some really nice builds!
Hmm Yaris wishbones! Straight swap? Same polybushes etc?
Yeah spotted Lee's test on the charge cooler, I've got a fairly large intercooler left from a build a couple of years ago so I'm going to see if I can make that work.
Anyone doing any Gearbox swaps or updated boxes
Quote from: Gaz2405 on March 12, 2019, 19:15
Quote from: dan944 on March 12, 2019, 16:16
Ooohhh...hello.
Love a turbo build.
I'll throw my 2p in and do with it what you will.
Scott is absolutely on point as usual. My car is almost at 100k and full suspension refresh was required.
Look at Yaris wishbones. (Cheap!!)
And general revamp of all bushes. Probably poly if your going track.
Engine mount bushes are a must in my opinion. Especially with the extra torque of the turbo. Mine was unbearable without putting new ones in. I used BRD ones. (Lou Brooks). I also made a mk2 version of Caroline's head steady.
I recommend a re circ valve.
Take advantage of the Ecumaster group buy if you can. Your build will only be as good as the map.
Mine is at the "limit" of Gearbox torque at just 8.2psi. I'd like to think that means longevity will be good?
Intake temps are ok but not great. Recommend a charge cooler. There's testing that proves the cheap eBay ones are very effective (spyder Lees YouTube channel)
Get the ally sump. I went with OBX but whatever you want really. The extra capacity helps massively with engine cooling. That was proven on the dyno in 30 degree weather.
Hope this helps.
Cheers Dan.
Have looked at the OBX sump, but got for a standard one to start, do many track MR2's have issues with oil starvation? As I may go baffled.
Hopefully getting the car up on the ramps at my brother in laws garage to have a check of bushes and suspension. (Check them out on FB https://www.facebook.com/pg/speedshopuk/posts/?ref=page_internal ) They do some really nice builds!
Hmm Yaris wishbones! Straight swap? Same polybushes etc?
Yeah spotted Lee's test on the charge cooler, I've got a fairly large intercooler left from a build a couple of years ago so I'm going to see if I can make that work.
Anyone doing any Gearbox swaps or updated boxes
The stock sump is baffled to some extent. But the OBX has a massive capacity. It about 2 extra litres off the top of my head. It really is worth it. And it has better baffling
Yaris is straight swap. There's some recent threads on removing the old ones. It could be an absolute pain!! But other than that it's an easy job. And £55 ish a pair :)
The bushes may look ok but after 100k I can guarantee they're shot. Mine were soo flexible.
Gearbox swaps.
Our C6X boxes aren't strong we consider around 240 ftlb to be nice and safe.
You can swap in a jubu gearset which is much stronger but not cheap.
Serious power you go E153 from mr2 mk2 turbo. It won't break on a 1zz or 2zz build.
We also use the S54/51 for low power V6 builds. Not sure if anyone has ever done it for a 1zz.
If you want strong and 6 speeds you go for a modern Toyota diesel box exact one escapes me atm but its far from straight forward.
Sump.
Everyone has there own ideas if I tracked a 1zz I'd buy an elise parts sump.
Interesting I'll have to look into the gearboxes in a bit more detail.
Some more goodies arrived yesterday.
AEM wideband, braided lines from Matt Lewis Racing, oil T, oil P and boost gauges.
Seats expected tomorrow, need to chase Megillian Motorsport for a delivery date on the braces.
Yaris wishbones ordered yesterday and hopefully fully polybushed kit this weekend.
Just one on the sump, it also already has fittings for oil return. Saves a bit of faff. In my opinion removes the need for an oil cooler as well.
Quick little update, parts are starting to arrive now.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7808/32437357077_d09c82f423_c.jpg)
Turbo is an OEM TD04 15T from Saab.
Oil lines, manifold, AEM Wideband, gaskets, filters, oil cooler, braided Brake Lines.
Also dug out all my old intercooling pipe work and gave it a clean down, should at least give me a head start on the pipe work! Couldn't find my old intercooler though, so may have to get a new one.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7914/46463937285_0d60def37e_c.jpg)
Also test fitted, OT, OP and Boost Gauges. (Don't worry the parrot is going!)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7859/46463934065_6b8bb254ff_c.jpg)
Found a new unopened set of 4 point harness in the garage as well from an old build so they'll get used too!
Not hanging around are we.
I'm going to bang on about a charge cooler again.
If your old intercooler has gone walkies and you've got to pay out spend a little more and reap the benefits. Fiat cinquecento rad bosch pump and an eBay cooler don't cost the earth.
I know I'm like a dog with a bone.
Stating to listen in the charge cooler front now..... Just been looking at various threads on IAT's... ;)
Quote from: Gaz2405 on March 14, 2019, 17:57
Stating to listen in the charge cooler front now..... Just been looking at various threads on IAT's... ;)
My Rotrex is stupid cool for IAT bit overkill for a mild 1zz build probably.
Searched high and low for intercooler.
Couldn't find it.
Charge cooler ordered! EBay universal special!
Quote from: Gaz2405 on March 14, 2019, 20:03
Searched high and low for intercooler.
Couldn't find it.
Charge cooler ordered! EBay universal special!
Dan I think you have competition here for quickest turbo build
Bloody hell!! Haha. Getting your pace on there. But I'm glad you're doing it right.
That charge cooler will make a world of difference.
Quote from: shnazzle on March 14, 2019, 20:11
Quote from: Gaz2405 on March 14, 2019, 20:03
Searched high and low for intercooler.
Couldn't find it.
Charge cooler ordered! EBay universal special!
Dan I think you have competition here for quickest turbo build
Need it done quick before the wife notices the pile of parts!
Ordering the parts is the easy bit, it's finding time to work on it.
Campervan needs putting through it's Mot this weekend. Should be OK, it's only done 4k since the last one!
Quote from: Gaz2405 on March 14, 2019, 20:22
Quote from: shnazzle on March 14, 2019, 20:11
Quote from: Gaz2405 on March 14, 2019, 20:03
Searched high and low for intercooler.
Couldn't find it.
Charge cooler ordered! EBay universal special!
Dan I think you have competition here for quickest turbo build
Need it done quick before the wife notices the pile of parts!
Trust me she's already noticed.
If she's anything like mine she'll be working out how many pairs of shoes it's all worth.
Few more little bits ordered today whilst I had a spare 10 minutes at work.
Fiat Cinquecento Alloy rad for the charge cooler.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4866/40419582903_472843e884_c.jpg)
Bits to do the battery relocation to the front as I'll be needing that space in the engine bay.
Rest of the oil cooler bits, some AN10 braided hose for the charge cooler to heat exchanger.
Chased up the seats, they should be here on Monday.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4889/40419582773_ec0654bb46_c.jpg)
Got some more oil fittings to get and need to measure up for a charge cooler expansion tank (copying SpyderLee's idea)
I've chased Megillian Motorsport as well for an update on the Bracing bits.
Seats look good be interested to see how they fit etc, hopefully enough room as i know when ive changed seats in other small cars like my old mx5 and boxster space was very tight!
Keep up the good work :D
Curiosity, where do you plan on putting the rad?
Yes I'm hoping the seat backs aren't too wide, look like they should work seen plenty of wing back recaro's fitted.
@dan944 (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=14286) planning on fitting rad behind the front bumper, obviously not all of it will get air flow. But will have a proper measure up once its hear and see what can be done.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on March 15, 2019, 11:29
Yes I'm hoping the seat backs aren't too wide, look like they should work seen plenty of wing back recaro's fitted.
@dan944 (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=14286) planning on fitting rad behind the front bumper, obviously not all of it will get air flow. But will have a proper measure up once its hear and see what can be done.
The ones I've seen fitted were stock fiat rads never seen one of those however I've got a japspeed mr2 rad and an Ali charge cooler rad and they both fit.
I will double check when I actually see my car again.
This is apparently a direct replacement.....
I'd seen the lovely pro alloy ones and thought better of it!
Plus full alloy because race car. ;D
Larger Injectors!!!
Whats everyone doing?
Dropped on some 2zz ones for £50, anything else I should look out for?
Are they going to be big enough? You'd be running pretty low boost I guess. Maybe some 440cc for future growth?
Just looking to be pointed in the right direction really. Any oem ones that fit?
Quote from: Gaz2405 on March 15, 2019, 20:23
Just looking to be pointed in the right direction really. Any oem ones that fit?
Yup. The lotus ones. They're green. Or, astra vxr 630cc I believe? Need a tiny bit of Stanley knife work to get to fit. Again... Dan knows best :)
Google is your friend.
SP Turbo used 440cc so they must be readily available for reasonable money.
Got a spare couple of hours today on the car, so I quickly moved things around in the garage and managed to squeeze the two in.
Started about removing the exhaust manifold and having a general nosey around the engine bay.
I was quite surprised/annoyed at the amount of bracing and brackets there are holding the manifold in place!
Any way all off, only 1 bolt that has to be drilled out on the heat shield.
It looks like there is a high pressure oil journal on the front of the block that has been tapped before and now has a copper plug in, anyone else have this?
Looks to be in a perfect location for the oil feed for the turbo.
If I get some time tonight I'll mount up the turbo manifold and see how it sits.
Scrap that it's a coolant drain or bleed valve.
Here's the pre cat mess I had, not sure if this is a lot of break down or not... Anyone?
https://flic.kr/p/RrVRMz
I would be concerned about that dust from the pre cat as the important thing when they come out is that they are intact before you start to remove them.
Going to try and pull the plugs today and have a visual inspection of the cylinders.
I used Siemens deka injectors. 670cc. I think they were about £140 for the set and need a little modifing but it's very easy. Spyder lee has a video on it.
Not sure what duty cycle they run at but there were no complaints whilst tuning.
Quote from: dan944 on March 18, 2019, 10:16
I used Siemens deka injectors. 670cc. I think they were about £140 for the set and need a little modifing but it's very easy. Spyder lee has a video on it.
Not sure what duty cycle they run at but there were no complaints whilst tuning.
Manufacturers usually run a duty cycle of 80% plenty of head room left for safety's sake. Whoever tunes the car may have their own opinion.
Few bits done tonight.
Relocated battery to lower cross member using the midship runabout guide, very easy.
This should leave plenty of room for the charge cooler, expansion tank and oil catch tank.
Test fitted manifold and turbo and clocked the cold side by 90.
Ordered downpipe and sports cat.
Right thought it was about time I updated this on whats been going on.
Managed to get the turbo mounted to the manifold using an adaptor plate to go from T3 flange to T25 flange that the TD04 15t uses. Also done carbon canister delete and moved the battery down to the rear subframe.
Had to drill out the tapped holes in the turbo as the flange adaptor was threaded.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7806/46743232774_bac89e1fe2_c.jpg)
Oil lines on.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7918/33589830288_438212e854_c.jpg)
Also got the new seats fitted, they came with clio 182 subframes which were duley butchered to fit the MR2, I've gone for mounting them straight through the floor as low as possible and used spreader plates underneath the car. I'll replace the individual spreader plates at a later date with plates welded to the floor and nuts welded to them.
But so far loving the look and feel of them.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7894/47413464262_e41eecd222_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7894/46743232784_dc632dbc66_c.jpg)
I've gone for a sports cat and down pipe from Lewis, which will need some modification to fit but shouldn't be a problem.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7889/47413462282_b222e5b72f_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7875/47413462192_4be5ab3ccd_c.jpg)
Manifold and turbo insitu.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7830/47413462132_f50eb2b6e0_c.jpg)
Autosilicone hoses have messed up by order for the parts needed to fit the charge cooler so that's due later this week.
Next up is, dropping the oil and sorting the oil feed, oil drain in the sump and oil cooler.
After that it will be charge cooler plumbing, then on with the gauges.
Also still waiting on my braces from Megillian Motorsport have been told they'll be here soon, so fingers crossed.
Managed to grab and hour or 2 on the car tonight.
Test fitted charge cooler and pipe work and mounted up expansion tank.
Currently got a MAF adaptor pipe to get running to start with, but also have another pipe to fit IAT.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7833/32574862597_bf48cc2407_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7854/40551274363_7bf13694b5_c.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7924/46793445474_cf1a9667ac_c.jpg)
Still waiting on the hose clamps, a 45 degree bend for the throttle body to give a nicer connection, correct size pipe work for charge cooler rad and a few other bits.
Exhaust flange ordered and some stainless to extend the down pipe.
nice work! super quick
Been a while since I last updated or even worked on the car as my day job got in the way! The cheek of it!
Anyway, Oil feed and oil drain lines both connected up.
Water hoses intersected as per the TTE document and touted to turbo with a 16mm to 10mm brass reducer and ran it in some braided hose to the turbo.
Sump off.
New sump fitted with threaded drain in.
Whilst sump was off, took oil filter off and a fitted sandwich plate for oil pressure, oil temp, oil feed for turbo and also feeds for oil cooler to go in behind drivers side side vent.
Hopefully get the hose ran for the charge cooler next.
Bodged together a down pipe for the turbo to feed into Malian exhaust down pipe. Enough to drive it to get a full system fab'd up anyway.
No pictures as technically I've been "working from home" today so it was just a case of getting stuff done.
One question though, what sump sealant are people using?? As I've just whacked the sump back on for the time being with no sealant and left the oil out of the car.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on April 30, 2019, 15:44
One question though, what sump sealant are people using??
This stuff is the schizzle: https://www.tegiwaimports.com/hondabond-ht-honda-engine-gasket-sealer-sealant.html
She runs!!
Ish...... 😂
Fired her up today with charge cooler disconnected so I wouldn't see boost, ran perfectly. Waste gate also wired open.
No fluid leaks, exhaust is working as it should, still running two pre cat lambda sensors and one after in the stock location.
Brilliant I thought.... Connect up charge cooler, take it for mapping....
As soon as the cooler is connected I get about 10 seconds of rough idle, then it dies.
P0100, P0101 and P0110 all coming up, so obviously have a maf issue.
Tried moving the maf pipe further back in the system, helped a little but not much.
Going to give the maf a good clean and check the wiring.
Any ideas....??
From research it should at least idle and run on very low boost enough to drive and get it to the mappers.
Don't really have the time for it at the moment as worn has been mental busy, so I'm not missing driving it at least.
Cars don't you just love them!
So it's definitely a maf issue.
MAF wasn't damaged taking it out, but the wiring looks like it's been messed with in the past so I'm suspecting a wiring issue somewhere.
Unplugged maf car ran fine dint stall or hesitate.
Now to get AFR, and rest of the gauges working, then time for ecu and map.
Not sure when I'll get chance to work on it again, hopefully in the next couple of weeks.
Bit more done quickly this morning on the car and a few pics for an update.
Gauges in, just need to wire senders up, when the car is next jacked up. Ran the wires through the existing grommet in the engine bay, into some conduit in the cubbies and don the centre console.
Don't worry the parrot is going!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47998903521_7d30cc1bd1_c.jpg)
Basic down pipe from some 2.5" 90 bend, its plenty good enough to get it going and if you were on a really tight budget would probably do.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48000694231_4835bc8773_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48000694186_265ce5311e_c.jpg)
Oil Cooler fitted behind drivers side vent/pod.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48000693956_c46210326c_c.jpg)
Also gave the seats a bit of minor adjustment, as I wasn't completely happy with how they were sitting, still not 100% but didn't have much time.
Work horse and camper in the back ground.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48000693571_1182703a12_c.jpg)
Finally this morning the car moved under its own steam for the first time in a long time, few little niggling bits to do then off for ECU and mapping!
Will most likely put it in for new clutch before its mapped.
Good progress :) and interested to see how it maps up and power levels etc, did you decide on Ecu choice ?
You will most likely need to do some work on exhaust to get decent numbers as stock pipework is too small for much over 160hp and starts to cause restriction from what ive read, going to 2.5" right through including silencer is the key and its good for 230hp+ then :D
Im hopefully going for a rotrex on my 1zz later this year so interested to see how your chargecooler setup pans out and will be picking your brains im sure :D
Keep up the good work.
Quote from: thetyrant on June 4, 2019, 16:02
Good progress :) and interested to see how it maps up and power levels etc, did you decide on Ecu choice ?
You will most likely need to do some work on exhaust to get decent numbers as stock pipework is too small for much over 160hp and starts to cause restriction from what ive read, going to 2.5" right through including silencer is the key and its good for 230hp+ then :D
Im hopefully going for a rotrex on my 1zz later this year so interested to see how your chargecooler setup pans out and will be picking your brains im sure :D
Keep up the good work.
Yes exhaust will get completely reworked, although I'll probably try and keep the sports cat from Malian as its new.
Going for ECU Master.
Will keep a look out for your build.
Few more little bits ordered last night to get things moving along again.
Couple of AN fittings to neaten up the charge cooler pipe work.
Bits of conduit to neaten some engine bay wiring.
Bumper and lights put back on to make it look a bit more car like again.
Spare down pipe flange for the exhaust fabricator to use.
Some 630cc Injectors, 2zz ones will be going up for sale.
Going to look into sourcing some different under car bracing as well.
The stuff I ordered from Megillian still hasn't turned up with various delivery dates missed, "48 hours from the powder coaters blah blah blah!!" I paid for them in full in March........Its now June!!
Quote from: Gaz2405 on June 6, 2019, 09:48
The stuff I ordered from Megillian still hasn't turned up with various delivery dates missed, "48 hours from the powder coaters blah blah blah!!" I paid for them in full in March........Its now June!!
Not uncommon. Anybody else reading this, I wouldn't pay fully in advance.
Change of plan re: engine management, Apexi PFC came up on the forum so grabbed that.
There's several mappers round me that use it.
Long term I probably won't keep it, as plan on going k20 turbo or 2zz turbo in the future.
Just need to get an extension finished at home first!
Quote from: Gaz2405 on June 7, 2019, 20:27
Change of plan re: engine management, Apexi PFC came up on the forum so grabbed that.
There's several mappers round me that use it.
Long term I probably won't keep it, as plan on going k20 turbo or 2zz turbo in the future.
Just need to get an extension finished at home first!
The apexi will see you right for a while. Well done
Good choice as while pfc is old tech compared to latest kit but with good mapper more than capable :) saves me pondering buying that one anymore as well!
Little hit more done in the car today.
AEM wide band installed, put the gauge where the cig lighter goes, will get a photo up later.
Fiat seicento radiator fitted in front of the standard rad for the charger cooler.
Charge cooler 19mm ID pipe ran under the car, down into the engine bay, around the petrol tank and then follows the rest of the pipe work down the centre.
Got a slight coolant leak where the reducer meets the coolant line for the turbo, only a slight drop but won't nip up anymore. I've ordered some more braided hose, which is coolant specific rather than a do it all, so should have a bit more give in it to tighten up around the reducer.
Hopefully take the thing out at the weekend in very low boost. Keeping an eye on AFR, then get it booked into RS tuning in Leeds for mapping.
Quick ten minutes tonight.
Changed the chain tensioner seal as it had been weeping previously by the looks of it.
Received Apexi pfc today in the post along with some new braided coolant lines and Maf sensor, so will try and get that fitted next week.
Got my Apexi pfc installed today.
Loaded a base map using the fc hako it came with.
Started on the button but with rough idle, will go through self learn idle set up tomorrow if I've got time.
Plugged in the new maf prior to this which made no difference, so I've obviously outside of the range for the standard ecu to deal with.
As soon as maf is unplugged with pfc, it stalls straight away.
Will link up my wide band to the hako later in the week.
Got some plumbing to do for the charge cooler rad at the front just waiting on some hose reducers form auto silicone hoses.
Depending on how rough the map/idle stays I may just plug in the factory ecu to drive to the mappers and change over once there. Undecided yet.
I have noticed I may have slight oil creep past the turbo seals, I thought I may encounter it as my oil return pipe is quite short and with the t3 to t25 adaptor on the turbo sits quite low.
I'll monitor and if I need to go new manifold, to bring the turbo higher I can do. Or may have the 2zz holes in the manifold welded up and then redrilled to suite 1zz in that configuration so the turbo sits on top.
Make sure your return to the sump isn't too low.
This can cause oil to back up and pass the seals.
Yeah return is as high up in pan as possible.
I knew it would be touch and go and there's not much in it.
Like I said, options around it should the need occur. * crosses fingers
Couple of hours tonight.
Replacement braided hose had come for the coolant pipes for the turbo so swapped those over.
What a ball ache to do with the turbo insitu!
I'll get some longer banjos at some point so it's easier if needed in the future.
Anyway all fitted and car ran up to temp to check for leaks.
Ok, so took the car for a gentle drive on the stock ECU, waste gate held open.
Couple of reasons:
1.General shake down as the car had been in bits and put back together so many times.
2.Check to see how smokey it was, with my potential oil seal issue.
3.Just to get out and drive the ting again.
Took it steady and didn't really get above 3k, once the initial smoke had gone it ran clear. Result!
Stock ECU cut fuelling if I got a little too exuberant, would expect that anyway.
Had forgotten to nip up the screws on the front wheel arch cover at the front bumper, so had a bit of a scrape on the way back.
So back home, content with how everything went I got Apexi PFC out.
2 Minutes to install.
Laptop open, HAKO connected. Loaded a base MAP, let the ECU do its self idling thing.
Came back to it and adjusted correction table on inj map to get AFR's to a more sensible figure whilst on various idles.
All in all quite an easy piece of kit to use (for idling anyway!)
The wife's out tonight so I've just come back in from finishing up the charge cooler pipe work at the front bumper.
All plumbed up and ready to go now, just need to wire in the switch for the pump now.
Front bumper back off and now back on again!
OEM Exhaust heat shield for the back bumper fitted.
Checked the Apexi PFC on cold start and all was fine, set the Hand Controller to monitor: Knock, Air Temp and Inj Duty.
Away with work for a while now, so won't be touching it for a while. So all back under cover in the garage.
Quick hour tonight playing with the Map after hours and hours of reading over the last couple of days, retarded the ignition table and played about with the ignl table too.
I think I might take a slightly different approach on the tuning side of things now and look to try and Map this myself.
Hold up a few of you might say. looking for trouble there!!
However, a bit of back ground on myself to start with:
This isn't the first foray into tuning for me, I've built A series Mini's in the past and engine swapped newer engines into older cars before. So I'm not afraid to use a spanner or pass up any opportunity to buy an new tool! I've dabbled with adaptronic ECU's some 10 years ago back when you had to make your own harness for them.
Although I don't do it as a profession (I run a construction and offsite manufacturing company) I do actually have a degree in Automotive Design Technology and i'm surrounded by engineering concepts day in day out.
My brother in law also has his own tuning shop/garage that prep all sorts of Race cars, so we thought worst case we'll turn it into the ultimate sleeper and K20 turbo it.
The car to me also is a weekend/track car, so if it goes pop it isn't the end of the world.
Most of all though I enjoy the learning process and I'm hands on in everything I do whether it be work or outside, also being a tight Yorkshire Man if I can do it myself rather than pay someone I will!
Should hopefully get some logged runs done next week to see where the map is under some load.
Good progress :) still not sure what to do power wise with mine so keen to see how this develops.
Frustrating evening with the car tonight.
Went go bleed the charge cooler system, I'm pretty sure the pump I have is knackered!
Just doesnt seem to have enough in it, I'm getting a trickle at the header tank all pipe work is 19mm id.
Will try and pick up a new one tomorrow and go again.
One final test this morning before going to get a new pump and all seems well. Can only think the air has come to the top of the header tank over night and finally got rid of the air lock.
Had planned on logging some data today on some runs, but the weather is terrible so that will have to wait.
It lives!! Sod it went out anyway!
Did around 8 miles in it this morning logging multiple runs with the laptop on the passenger seat and changing fuelling/ign timing as I went.
WOT doesn't seem to be a problem, main issues was on part throttle at lower speeds.
I was having an issue at part throttle running lean, but that's now sorted for the most part but will monitor and try some logs just to pin point that driving characteristic. (was running high 16s AFR on part throttle)
AFR's are in the 11-12ish range WOT, highest knock reading was 40 adjusted timing and fuelling in that cell.
Most knocks are now in the 10-15 range on max.
When I have more time I'll look to bring the timing back in to until Knock start to creep.
Boost is at waste gate pressure at the moment at 7psi, comes in lovely and smooth so far so good and loving the turbo fluter.
Intake temps maxed at mid 50's but I went out with the charge cooler pump off, so should drop considerable when this is up and running.
Another play with the car tonight.
The last time I took it out i was having intermittent "overheating" issues, I suspected it was a dodgy radiator bleed by myself as I wasn't getting any heat in the heater matrix.
So firstly sorted that....
Then as my knock readings were low across the range and timing was very conservatively set (due to being super cautious about knock!)
I had a play around with the timing offline at work today upping it by 1-2 degrees in places, minimum 1 degree across the whole map.
Well, what a difference!
It now feels like a boosted car properly, had one knock reading of 41 under load low down in the revs, that was my highest on the previous settings so wound that back down and added a little more fuel.
It made such a difference in fact, that i can't go WOT without major clutch slip.
So the car is back in the garage for a bit now whilst i have a read up on what clutches are available!
Overall it put a massive smile on my face tonight though.
Stop it! you got me looking for turbo manifolds now! :D
Sounds good and once you sort clutch so you can fine tuning mapping will be a beast :)
Ian
I've actually been quite surprised at "how easy" the process has been.
Admittedly it still needs some bits sorting to be ready for the track.
1. Down pipe to be fully tig welded. (my mig job is holding up fine, but its always in the back of my mind)
2. New clutch
3. Charge Cooler pump to be switched
4. Full brace kit to be fitted (which ever year it turns up!)
5. Track focused tyres
6. Still need to wire up the oil temp sender
7. Heat wrap the exhaust to help with engine bay temps a little
8. New discs and pads
There's probably lots more, but that'll do for the time being.
Just been reading the how to's on clutch replacement, looks fairly straight forward but a ball ache none the less!
I might just throw it into a garage for it doing, but then I'll want to make sure that all the charge cooler and associated pipe work is put back on again properly, so will most likely end up doing it myself!
So far I it think it probably stands me at about £2.5k, I'll try and do more of budget when I've got some more time.
So, car at £2.5k plus £2.5k for the set up. Don't think you could go this fast in a mid engine RWD for less!
Nice build, looking forward to seeing how this goes on track. What figures are you expecting it to put out once fully mapped?
If interested I have a set of FL wheels with NS2R tyres that i'm looking to swap for FL wheels and road tyres, PM if interested.
Nicely done! And kudos for the home-mapping.
Cheers guys, not sure what I'm hoping for power wise 220bhp plus would be nice to start.
Really like this build, will be watching with interest. Love the seats.
Finally an update with some pictures!
Spent an hour or two this morning getting the charge cooler pump switched into an ignition live.
Managed to get the hard top back on in a cramped garage by myself, ball ache!
Then went out for an hour or so of logging drives, stopping, adjusting the map, checking knock, checking inj duty, timing, air temp.
Even though the clutch slips at WOT it was a good opportunity to get some partial throttle stuff done, to try and aid the drive ability of it. To be fair it drives superb for a home brew map.
Knocks are now all averaging under 10 with a spike at higher revs to 18/19 ish.
AFR's settling at around 12.3ish, I'll probably make this a little richer with the new injectors in just for a precaution.
Once the car was fully warm and the clutch was holding a bit better I opened her up a bit more, I'm now at 100% injector duty at the top end, so the 630cc's will be going in next, just need to alter the harness.
Intake temps all averaged in the low thirties with a peak of low 40's, so the charge cooler is doing its job, it will be interesting how it fairs when its given some hammer on the track. I also need to make some other cooler mods to the engine bay, better ventilation, heat wrap etc.
The engine bay needs a bit of a general tidy up and I may swap my blue silicone hoses for black as the blue is a bit 2000's!
My homemade down pipe which is connected onto a Malian sports cat, has started to knock/vibrate the roll bar slightly on tick over sometimes, I knew it was close when i made it but may need some slight persuasion/alteration for the time being.
On the look out for a new clutch, don't want to go stupid and over do it and ruin the driving experience, so anyone who's running an uprated one hit me up with your suggestions.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48171462297_500334a212_c.jpg)
I love how it will be such a sleeper and surprise so many people.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48171383411_511bd250eb_c.jpg)
Awesome work well done and car looks superb, wish i had held out for a sable!
Dont be tempted to turn up the boost as the rods on the 1zz are very thin/weak, im told by a reputable source that 200-210 is safe limit and while some people do run higher its a big gamble and for track better to run a little less and keep it reliable, also with turbo ideally you want to try and bring the boost in gradually if your controller allows rather than a big dollop low down as this is what snaps rods, one of reasons i was thinking of rotrex as boost builds with revs so easier on rods, but think cost wise a normal turbo like you have is much cheaper way of doing it.
Look forward to updates :D
Ian
I'm happy just running waste gate pressure for the minute (7psi), but may look into a digital controller further down the line.
The TD04 15T, seems to bring in the power quite smooth for the time being....
Had an evening playing tonight, went to change the injectors out for some 630's I'd bought but after debating with my inner self it didn't looks like they would fit. Tiny bit wider and shorter, so I bottled it tonight and juts put the 2zz ones I had in laying around.
Adjusted the injector settings and off I went for a spin, seemed ok but was hesitating under load.
A quick check of the settings again and I'd changed the lag settings but not the duty %, so it was running super rich.
Changed % in setting 5 and straight away it was idling better and pulled smooth again.
Coming back though I noticed what sounded and felt like a flat osr tyre, the rumble you get. Got out to check and nothing....
Any ideas? Drive shaft perhaps?
Respect for the road tuning I'd still like to see it go on a RR.
Not sure how you find enough room to get it done both my modified 2s are way too fast.
@thetyrant pm the name of the member that told you 210 because first I've heard of it. Club generally recommends staying below 240 ftlb torque for gearbox longevity.
@spit has reliably ran more I believe. Certainly more bhp.
Quote from: 1979scotte on July 4, 2019, 12:17@thetyrant pm the name of the member that told you 210 because first I've heard of it. Club generally recommends staying below 240 ftlb torque for gearbox longevity.
@spit has reliably ran more I believe. Certainly more bhp.
It was the guys at Se7en motorsports who should know what they are talking about :).. the did say plenty have ran more but usually not for any length of time and certainly not on track, occasional blast on road/drag/dyno will put lot less stress on rods compared to constant abuse on track soon which soon finds the limits, each to there own but I prefer to be safe than throw out a rod and think 200hp is enough for MR2 anyhows :D
Always interested to see other pushing the limits but for my cars I play it safe :D
Looking forward to what this setup makes if it goes on dyno ;)
If anything the road tuning and mapping (I find) is very similar to complicated estimates at work and shuffling numbers around to try and make things work!
I'm out in the country with some very long uninterrupted roads, I've got my mapping road sorted with two big pubs at either end of it. Perfecting for parking up and seeing how the changes have affected the tune.
Plan is to road tune it for a while, until it seems perfect. Then book in for a mapping session to see what it makes on my map and then to see how many mistakes I've made in it once a real tuner gets hold if it!
Quote from: thetyrant on July 4, 2019, 13:51Quote from: 1979scotte on July 4, 2019, 12:17@thetyrant pm the name of the member that told you 210 because first I've heard of it. Club generally recommends staying below 240 ftlb torque for gearbox longevity.
@spit has reliably ran more I believe. Certainly more bhp.
It was the guys at Se7en motorsports who should know what they are talking about :).. the did say plenty have ran more but usually not for any length of time and certainly not on track, occasional blast on road/drag/dyno will put lot less stress on rods compared to constant abuse on track soon which soon finds the limits, each to there own but I prefer to be safe than throw out a rod and think 200hp is enough for MR2 anyhows :D
Always interested to see other pushing the limits but for my cars I play it safe :D
Looking forward to what this setup makes if it goes on dyno ;)
We will agree to differ then.
Both on the limits of the rods and how much power an MR2 needs.
Just spent the last couple of hours out mapping and logging.
Wanted to bring my AFR's in a little leaner, as I'd been running it rich for fear of det.
Once I'd got my AFR'S to where I was a little happier with them and got my knock max knock levels down under 20 I started to add some timing to the upper rev range, say from 3k onwards around the load cells most used when at WOT.
The car is now running much better and power delivery is much smoother now.
Air intake temps maxed at 45ish so I know the charge cooler is doing its stuff (thanks for being persistent about one Scotte)
Although just before I took the car out of the garage, I dropped my track pump on the front bonnet, major gouge and dent right above the badge in the middle, what a bell end!
So I'm now on the look out for another sable bonnet.
Spoke to my brother inlaw about the clutch, its going to go in for one in the next couple of weeks.
Has anyone used the exedy clutch from the 2zz supercharged corolla's before?
Quote from: Gaz2405 on July 4, 2019, 19:15Just spent the last couple of hours out mapping and logging.
Wanted to bring my AFR's in a little leaner, as I'd been running it rich for fear of det.
Once I'd got my AFR'S to where I was a little happier with them and got my knock max knock levels down under 20 I started to add some timing to the upper rev range, say from 3k onwards around the load cells most used when at WOT.
The car is now running much better and power delivery is much smoother now.
Air intake temps maxed at 45ish so I know the charge cooler is doing its stuff (thanks for being persistent about one Scotte)
Although just before I took the car out of the garage, I dropped my track pump on the front bonnet, major gouge and dent right above the badge in the middle, what a bell end!
So I'm now on the look out for another sable bonnet.
Spoke to my brother inlaw about the clutch, its going to go in for one in the next couple of weeks.
Has anyone used the exedy clutch from the 2zz supercharged corolla's before?
@s12vea used the stock corrolla compressor clutch I believe to.good effect.
Quote from: 1979scotte on July 4, 2019, 21:26Quote from: Gaz2405 on July 4, 2019, 19:15Just spent the last couple of hours out mapping and logging.
Wanted to bring my AFR's in a little leaner, as I'd been running it rich for fear of det.
Once I'd got my AFR'S to where I was a little happier with them and got my knock max knock levels down under 20 I started to add some timing to the upper rev range, say from 3k onwards around the load cells most used when at WOT.
The car is now running much better and power delivery is much smoother now.
Air intake temps maxed at 45ish so I know the charge cooler is doing its stuff (thanks for being persistent about one Scotte)
Although just before I took the car out of the garage, I dropped my track pump on the front bonnet, major gouge and dent right above the badge in the middle, what a bell end!
So I'm now on the look out for another sable bonnet.
Spoke to my brother inlaw about the clutch, its going to go in for one in the next couple of weeks.
Has anyone used the exedy clutch from the 2zz supercharged corolla's before?
@s12vea used the stock corrolla compressor clutch I believe to.good effect.
I used that on my tte turbo and had not issues.
Roughly 200bhp / 210 ft Ib
Stock feel as well which was nice
Been away in the Alps for a week or so, so progress has slowed down a little.
Back on it today, with heat wrap around the manifold and DIY down pipe.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48300292007_803c865a72_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48300291497_bce595b17d_c.jpg)
Also took out the tray from underneath the engine lid bonnet to try and help with some cooling. (The car is garaged and won't be driven in rain)
Exedy Clutch has also arrived so I'll try and get that fitted in the next week or two.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48300288547_d760a02038_c.jpg)
Also some pictures of my error dropping something on the hood!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48300181496_d07a59bba8_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48300179821_5ec9806bc4_c.jpg)
I've also got an issue where I seem to be pressurising the fuel tank with boost,I've done the same Carbon canister delete as Lee and the other, but thing I'll just bin off the solenoid all together and run a breather pipe into the wheel arch or similar. (any links to any guides/posts on this?)
Near future plans are to:
Fit new clutch.
Fit 630cc Injectors.
Proper mapping session.
Fit braided brake hoses and refresh discs and pads all round.
Get some Track Tyres Nankang NS-2R or similar. 195/50/15 at front and 215/40/16 at rear. (Although struggling with this size for availability) 225/45r16 looking more promising.
Order up some new Braces, as the ones from Megillian aren't going to materialise as I've claimed through paypal.
The finally a track day towards the end of August hopefully. Most likely Blyton as it nice and close.
I wouldn't bother with the big tyres you won't need them.
I've got 250 ftlb @ the wheels on pfl 205 rear AD08R and its fine in the dry.
Quote from: 1979scotte on July 16, 2019, 19:42I wouldn't bother with the big tyres you won't need them.
I've got 250 ftlb @ the wheels on pfl 205 rear AD08R and its fine in the dry.
Ahh Great so FL stock sizes best?
Read loads on the forum about going up a size.....hhmm
Quote from: Gaz2405 on July 16, 2019, 20:13Quote from: 1979scotte on July 16, 2019, 19:42I wouldn't bother with the big tyres you won't need them.
I've got 250 ftlb @ the wheels on pfl 205 rear AD08R and its fine in the dry.
Ahh Great so FL stock sizes best?
Read loads on the forum about going up a size.....hhmm
I like small tyres.
I've had as big as 205 F 215 R and I didn't like it.
I like 185 205 the best on PFL wheels.
Everyone is different.
I'm just saying that my car has 175 ftlb of torque at 2500rpm and maxes out at 257 all at the wheels and I haven't found it a handful on public roads in the dry.
The wet is another matter.
Also my Rotrex doesn't suddenly create torque spikes like turbos can.
Chris GB had a built 2gr that ran well North of 300 bhp and he ran stockish size R888.
Hmm will have to give it some thought, thanks for the insight.
May wait until its mapped fully before making the decision on tyres after some "spirited" driving.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on July 16, 2019, 20:40Hmm will have to give it some thought, thanks for the insight.
May wait until its mapped fully before making the decision on tyres after some "spirited" driving.
The suck it and see method is a favourite of mine also.
Quick hour or so out tonight mapping.
Playing trial and error with fuelling and ignition.
Finally feel like I'm getting to the finer part of the tune now.
Had some guys come over for a chat on motorbikes who'd seen me doing a few pulls (it's a popular road for spirited driving and also on a slight gradient so great for putting an engine under load) who were impressed and hadn't realised what a pocket rocket these cars could be.
Below is some info from another thread where I'd thought about getting it mapped by a pro but I think I've convinced myself otherwise....
I did look at Co Pilot and have a copy ready to play with. But thought I'd first get used to the standard software in FC Edit.
I have wideband connected and after some trial and error and scrolling old forum posts now have it reading the same on both the log and the gauge.
I've been logging quite a few miles, maybe a hundred or so, I tend to do short runs/pulls and check and amend the map at the side of the road.
I've got my knock levels to where i want them (max under 25).
It's now a case of bring out some fuelling to get towards an AFR across the board I'm happy with (circa 12-12.5 wot) and also change the 2zz injectors out to the 630's I've got as I'm over 90% duty over 4.5k.
Timing has been advanced quite a bit compared to the base map I used, it looked very conservative.
Re:vvti map, I've ran a couple of different base maps on this differing around 10 degs in total, but in all honesty could tell the difference on the road.
I think I'll stick with my original plan and continue to map it myself. Take it for a power run at a rolling road to see what the curve is like and go from there.
Worst case it'll either blow up or I'll have to spend a few hundred on a mapping session.
Home from work an hour early today, so got straight to it.
Car is booked for its clutch this Saturday, so wanted to get a few bits sorted before hand.
Namely fitting the 630cc injectors and changing the plugs for some a grade cooler.
Plugs were done in 5 mins.
Injectors were another storey.... 😂
Now I'd messed up when buying them as the connectors needed an adaptor.
However, on closer inspection the top of the injectoe body was slightly wider than the 2zz injectors.
So first try was to put another o ring on top and space out the clamp spacer.
All fitted, quick test prime of the fuel rail......
Pissing out everywhere!
Back to the drawing board then.
Now being a selectively tight Yorkshire man/not been arsed to order some more, I took the brand new injectors to the bench grinder with the fine stone on.... 😂
First one done, nice tight fit still with two o rings but the injector sat 'fully home' in the rail.
Sod I thought I'll do the rest, worst case they still leak and I'll need to buy some more.
All done and fitted, injectors scaled down on the Apexi pfc....(left the lag settings the same as they're not 10year old injectors that need to extra time to open)
Boom started first time, no leaks.
Good old bodge it and scarper!
Now waiting for the laptop to charge to go out and check afr's and see what duty they're running at.
Few!
Success!
No more slow blink cel light indicating maxed out injectors.
Pulls all the way to the limiter now.
Max duty sat at about 55%.
Cant wait for the clutch fitting now, to see what it can really do.
Success!
Hurrah!
Ended up having to change the inj lag slightly, as the idle had started to hunt a little more.
A little trial and error and I seem to have it where it should be.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on July 23, 2019, 14:43Ended up having to change the inj lag slightly, as the idle had started to hunt a little more.
A little trial and error and I seem to have it where it should be.
These settings are quite key to any corrective algorithms you have, so make sure they're spot on before you try to compensate using correction tables.
Quote from: shnazzle on July 23, 2019, 15:31Quote from: Gaz2405 on July 23, 2019, 14:43Ended up having to change the inj lag slightly, as the idle had started to hunt a little more.
A little trial and error and I seem to have it where it should be.
These settings are quite key to any corrective algorithms you have, so make sure they're spot on before you try to compensate using correction tables.
Yeah trying to find any reliable data online is a little tricky.
I've saved down all the settings and reinitialed the Pfc then let it do its thing with the self learn idle again and we appear to be spot on.
Rest of the map is 'fine' (at least it seems to be).
I was just having an issue on non load idle with the larger Injectors.
So I've had an annoying little vibration/rattle whic is the downpipe slightly catching the ARB.
It's only occasionally happening when setting off, but is gradually getting worse.
Having a look underneath the car both front and rear engine mounts have seen better days.
With the rear engine mount slid all the way down in the slotted locating point.
So I jacked the car up, big timber blocks under the wheels, dropped it down again and undid the rear engine moint main bolt.
Jackes up the engine until the mount slid up in the slotted locating point.
Cleaned the mount up with solvent and a small stiff paint brush and filled in the gaps in the mount with sikaflex 221.
Then tightened the 17mm mount up with a big old bar so it's not going anywhere!
All in all this should give me 2-3cms of clearance and stiffen the mount up slightly too.
Cleaned the front mount and filled with sika 221 also.
I'll give it until Friday to drop it down on its own weight.
Will see how this goes but may keep my eye out for a full set of mounts and make my own PU bushes for them.
First drive today with the mounts adjusted, much better sharper and with no rattles from the exhaust anymore. Bonus!
In for the clutch tomorrow along with rear wheel bearings and braided hoses for the brakes.
Had the car in today for its clutch.
Pretty straight forward, including getting all the charge cooler and turbo bits out of the way with plenty of brew stops and changing two wheels bearings it took us just over 4 hours.
Will be changing disc and pads all round soon too, as we found a hair line crack in one of the rears.
First drive with the new clutch..... Wow this thing is fast! 😜
I also fully deleted all the charcoal canister pipes as I'd been pressurising the fuel tank!
Boost is now solid at 9.5psi peaking at 11!
So next thing is an adjustable wastegate and a boost Controller and wind it down at peak a little.
Very very happy with the car at the moment!
I've ordered some an12 weld in fittings for the expansion tank, as currently they're on an6-an12 adaptors and want it more free flowing.
What turbo do you have mate?
Wouldn't want to push anymore than 10 psi for longevity.
My sp240 kit would peak at 10psi but then drop down to 7 or 8 at high rpm.
Quote from: 1979scotte on July 27, 2019, 16:13What turbo do you have mate?
Wouldn't want to push anymore than 10 psi for longevity.
My sp240 kit would peak at 10psi but then drop down to 7 or 8 at high rpm.
It's a Td04 15t from a saab 93, yeah they're the sort of boost figures I'm looking at.
Crap weather outside.
So used it as an excuse to do a bit of retail therapy.
Nankang Ns2r in 195/50 and 225/45 ordered.
An12 fittings arrived yesterday for the expansion tank for the charge cooler.
0.6 bar waste gate actuator ordered.
Manual boost Controller (for the time being) ordered.
Full set of discs all round and yellow stuff pads.
Also put my name down for one of Carolyn front brace's.
One thing we noticed when the car was on the ramps at the weekend, was that even though its a FL, it didn't have the front lower brace fitted. I'm assuming this has been taken off at some point after potentially hitting something.
So to cure that I've ordered the Barbarian front brace which should be coming tomorrow.
Tonight I'm hoping to create a little more space in the engine bay for the cone filter as at the moment it's on a very short 45' bend sitting just above the rear subframe and very close to the rear box. Plan is to get some pipe work through to the rear wheel arch and have it in there., which could be a bit of a squeeze as I have my battery relocated onto the rear subframe too.
Barbarian Brace arrived today, less than 24 hours after ordering it!
What surprised me was how light it was, got it fitted in just under an hour.
Got the air filter moved last night down into the back wheel arch where it will be fed air from the OE air feed.
Spent the last couple of evenings mapping and logging runs and seem to have the map right where I want it, I'm seeing 10 psi all the way through spiking at 11psi, some may say its a little high and I may go for an EBC in the future. But for the time being I'm happy running the risk and I'm aware of the consequences.
A built engine would be my next logical step anyway and I'm currently on the look out for parts.
Struggling for time to actually do any spannering this week, so juts dropped the car off for 4 new tyres, and discs and pads all round and to have the braided brake hoses fitted.
Gone for standard discs with yellow stuff pads and Nankang NS2R's ended up going to 195/50r15 and 225/45r16.
Had a little trip out today in the pick up, to pick this little beauty up.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48496190452_924f4c91ef_c.jpg)
JP Cages rear Cage, looking to mould plastics around it (hopefully)
Quote from: Gaz2405 on August 9, 2019, 15:51Had a little trip out today in the pick up, to pick this little beauty up.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48496190452_924f4c91ef_c.jpg)
JP Cages rear Cage, looking to mould plastics around it (hopefully)
Nice one, is this a standard item for them or did they have to custom build ?
Look forward to the pictures of install and how neat it fits etc.
Ian
standard I believe, ebay bargain never fitted £250!
So quick update on how the car is at the moment.
Managed to get the roll cage fitted in the last couple of days. (Pain in the arse doing it in the garage with crap everywhere!)
Manged to slide/force the seat belt plastics back into position and left the carpet in as the car's secondary purpose to to be pulled around Europe in the camper van to be used as transport whilst we're away so it's not 100%track focused.
Rest of the rear plastics and carpet on the bulk head have been removed.
Also had the car back from it's new tyres and brakes fitted. (Nankang NS2R, new discs all round and yelow stuff pads)
Also got the Barbarian front lower brace fitted.
The car handles so much better now, sharper turn in and feels so much more rigid.
Pleased with the car at the moment and have the map at a place where I'm not getting any knock flashes and now take the car out without the laptop plugged in. Just need to make a mount for the Commander.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48528374621_45c72687b5_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48528532857_fce45cb030_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48528377351_d89db5f5f8_c.jpg)
Next just waiting on a cusco breast plate, a TRD front Upper and Carolyn's upper front brace too to come to see which one I want to keep hold of and the other will be coming up for sale.
I will have to pop down at some point for a nosey around the car as im still keen to turbo over winter if i dont go 2zz :D
Car looks awesome and my favourite colour, wish i had held out for a sable but this silver i got is decent enough i guess.
Very nice work ... LOVE those seats!
I'm not sure you'll need all that bracing with a cage but it doesn't hurt to find out.
Quote from: 1979scotte on August 14, 2019, 05:48I'm not sure you'll need all that bracing with a cage but it doesn't hurt to find out.
Yeah the cage was an impulse buy and wasn't really planning it yet hence rest of the bracing already in it's way.
Still, shouldn't do any harm.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on August 14, 2019, 08:18Quote from: 1979scotte on August 14, 2019, 05:48I'm not sure you'll need all that bracing with a cage but it doesn't hurt to find out.
Yeah the cage was an impulse buy and wasn't really planning it yet hence rest of the bracing already in it's way.
Still, shouldn't do any harm.
I should think a front strut brace will still make a huge difference. Stiffening up the cockpit will put more load on the front strut towers, It seems to me.
Quote from: Carolyn on August 14, 2019, 08:36Quote from: Gaz2405 on August 14, 2019, 08:18Quote from: 1979scotte on August 14, 2019, 05:48I'm not sure you'll need all that bracing with a cage but it doesn't hurt to find out.
Yeah the cage was an impulse buy and wasn't really planning it yet hence rest of the bracing already in it's way.
Still, shouldn't do any harm.
I should think a front strut brace will still make a huge difference. Stiffening up the cockpit will put more load on the front strut towers, It seems to me.
I did say "ALL" I think a frut strut brace is a must.
Quick update, cusco brace and TRD front brace have arrived.
Took the car to a local show at the weekend, a last minute decision as it was only 5 minutes away and the weather was looking OK.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48577621026_9166093a57_z.jpg)
The car attracted a lot of attention and was well received.
Your car looks great Gary. :) I'm not surprised it received interest.
Out doing some testing tonight.
Downloaded a GPS tracking App to check 0-60 times.
Did about 5 launches (not full on launch, worried about the gearbox!) on a slight incline.
Had times of between 4.6 and 5.3. So pretty pleased.
App is called Drag Racer if anyone is interested.
(obvioulsy taken the times wih a pinch of salt, but gives a good indication at least)
So
@Carolyn 's brace arrived today, but unfortunately didn't have time to fit as I had to run out to pick up some padlocks as we had a lovely visitor last night,luckily nothing taken, but caught them on the CCTV so padlocks going on the garden gates!
Thought I'd use the Roadster to nip out and get the locks and do some air temp logging whilst I was at it.
Ambient temp was around 19c.
Now I have a charge cooler set up with 19mm ID hoses, fiat cinq rad and bosch pump.
However, i was lazy with my head tank and it has AN6 bosses and my hoses finish in AN12 or AN16 can't remember off the top of my head, but I've essentially sized down with adaptors. So I have all this lovely 19mm hose then strangle it when it gets to the header!
Anyway, cruising round I had temps of 22c.
Stopped at Screwfix to get my gear, was in there for about 15 mins came back out and I'd had some heat soak up to 28c.
On boost at 10psi I was getting between 32c-42c, these were long pulls all the way through 1st, 2nd and 3rd.
Back cruising sitting at 24-26c.
I've already ordered some weld in bosses which match the hose ID, so that should help when on boost.
May look into getting a small fan for the charge cooler rad to help in traffic.
Hopefully removing bottle necks in pipework will help sort temps as does sound like is struggling on road so certainly will on track, a better/fatter core radiator might be needed as car coolant rads are designed to keep temps between 80-100c and work well for that but on a chargecooler your needing much lower temps so not as suitable, a fan on there would be good for traffic and post lapping cool down as well.
Keep up the good work and hopefully the low lifes don't bother you again!
How did you run the hoses down to the front? Just all'industria the current ones? Easy to fix?
Hoses run down the centre of the tunnel with the other hoses, tight squeeze but just about fit.
Just about to go in the dyno at RS Tuning in Leeds..... Let's see what it does or doesn't make 😂
233bhp...... At the flywheel. 198whp 😂
Good news is, it's down to my incredibly rich map! So all fixable, seems I've been over cautious with the fuel and too aggressive with the timing, pulling both back should see me in a better position.
Also had some part throttle knock which I've now got rid of.
Not too disappointed, it's all a learning curve and I enjoy the learning and mapping as much as the driving it.
I'll continue to tinker then maybe another run.
But I'll probably run it as it is until it needs a built engine then go for a proper ecu and professionally mapped.
Got a print out?
Would be nice to know what the torque is doing?
198 at the wheels is pretty good makes for a seriously fast mr2. Your making the same power as the SP240 kit and way more than the TTE turbo.
I'd be happy with that on stock engine and gearbox.
Yeah got the print out, I'll ping them up tonight.
Torque was around 200ftlb at 5k then tailing off.
Ran low tens afr from 2k through to 4.5k which was the main problem.. Fuelling seemed to be okish 11.5 onwards, but did dip at 6k then back up.
So far I've pulled between 2-4 degrees out and leaned the fuel.
Heavy fuelling was masking some det once leaned out so pulled some more timing.
Should be back out in it later this afternoon once th laptop has charged up again.
Graph attached from today.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48728647398_81d7e989ea_c.jpg)
Been out most of this evening trying to iron out the fuelling issues, which seems to be going in the right direction now.
Am I correct in thinking the TTE Exhaust is quite restrictive on turbo applications?
I've altered my load cells on my map to give me a greater view towards the top of the load and rpm to make making adjustments easier. At the moment I'm not seeing any knock over 25 anywhere in the map.
Timing is pulled out to 12 degrees through all the WOT throttle cells on boost, once I've got the fuelling where I want it I'll start adding some timing back in.
Nice numbers and curves all things considered. no wonder it flys! will be nice once all smoothed out with more tune tweaking :D
Yeah hoping to get out this afternoon with thr laptop to try and smooth things out.
Still undecided as to whether to leave it as is, once I've 'sorted' the map, maybe add a more free flowing exhaust.
Or whether to pay the £300 for it mapping properly.
The way I saw it after 4.5k it was pretty spot on, and when you're giving it the beans in a track day, you're rarely below that rpm figure under load anyway.
It's definitely fast on the road and has a few scalps already from more powerful and expensive machinery.
Either way next stage of the build will be forged and then I'll go down the ecu master route on the group buy.
Should be picking up some coilovers for it on Monday night.
Do you know whats causing the lump in graphs around 3800 or is it just map related ? if not maybe something to do with vvti or boost control ? other than that it looks decent enough and +100hp over stock its not going to be slow!, I just cant decide if I go turbo or 2zz! I want reliability for track which is steering me to 2zz but your build has me tempted to turbo, I just know to get turbo as I want it I will spend more! :D
The jump was down to a rich map, it was dead 10s up until about then.
Boost was at fulk pressure by then as its running standard wastegate pressure.
Vvti, shouldn't have much impact on these engines, or so I'm led to believe.
I'll probably end up driving mine more on the weekend and evenings that track days, so went turbo plus it was easier to build and tinker in the garage in secret until it was done.
Ah yes make sense as that's very rich, once you get it into the 11 afr's and smooth out the timing it should pull a lot cleaner, could maybe even get into 12 afr's but as you know its always a compromise between mixture,timing and det but it sound like you getting there :)
Keep it up :D
That bump is very characteristic of the 1zz. You'll see it on almost every stock-cammed 1zz.
Are you monitoring EGT by any chance? If you're doing self-tuning you might want to watch that as you're leaning things out a fair bit.
IAT ok?
Vvti, if you can control it, is a bit tighter on turbo apps to reduce overlaps. You don't need as much scavenging with turbo. Pressure waves are massively dampened.
4k-5k range I'd be tempted to agree that you're fighting the TTE or Malian cat. I'd ease off until you can open that up. Pushing it there will leave you susceptible to dangerous fluxes in WBO readings and associated fueling issues.
Looks great though. Very nicely done!
Tte exhaust isn't ideal for turbo applications it's also very heavy.
Map looks reasonable little bit of smoothing to do don't like they big bump in torque at 5k and then the way it drops off big time.
Although having a Rotrex and a V6 means I'm spoilt for torque.
Quote from: shnazzle on September 15, 2019, 09:12That bump is very characteristic of the 1zz. You'll see it on almost every stock-cammed 1zz.
Are you monitoring EGT by any chance? If you're doing self-tuning you might want to watch that as you're leaning things out a fair bit.
IAT ok?
Vvti, if you can control it, is a bit tighter on turbo apps to reduce overlaps. You don't need as much scavenging with turbo. Pressure waves are massively dampened.
4k-5k range I'd be tempted to agree that you're fighting the TTE or Malian cat. I'd ease off until you can open that up. Pushing it there will leave you susceptible to dangerous fluxes in WBO readings and associated fueling issues.
Looks great though. Very nicely done!
Thanks Shnazzle, I'm going to compare a few other vvti maps from spyder club and the celica boys.
Not monitoring EGT's, but I'm a cutely aware of them. I have a spare bung I could weld a sensor into.
IAT's I'm pretty happy with, highest I've seen is 45ish, but generally they're in the mid to high thirties. (whilst at wot) I've got a fan to fit to the heat exchanger plus some bottle necks to take out of the charge cooler system.
I managed a couple of hours last night on it, and have nearly all the WOT under various loads sitting in the mid 11's. It's also way smoother now and you actually get to use the boost that's created earlier on in the map! Rather than the boost just pulling you through richness!
I'd already sorted the cruising part of the map to be very close to stoich and slightly above on gentle throttle.
Think exhaust will be next on the list.
May look at custom, but most likely malian.
Quote from: 1979scotte on September 15, 2019, 09:37Tte exhaust isn't ideal for turbo applications it's also very heavy.
Map looks reasonable little bit of smoothing to do don't like they big bump in torque at 5k and then the way it drops off big time.
Although having a Rotrex and a V6 means I'm spoilt for torque.
You could really feel that hit if toque too.
Pretty sure it was due to the car coming out of its rich cells and then seeing the more aggressive timing at a decent afr. I've pulled the timing over the WOT cells now and it feels much smoother.
I have bags of torque in my daily, shame its in a 2 tonne Ford Ranger though! 😂
Quote from: Gaz2405 on September 15, 2019, 09:49Quote from: 1979scotte on September 15, 2019, 09:37Tte exhaust isn't ideal for turbo applications it's also very heavy.
Map looks reasonable little bit of smoothing to do don't like they big bump in torque at 5k and then the way it drops off big time.
Although having a Rotrex and a V6 means I'm spoilt for torque.
You could really feel that hit if toque too.
Pretty sure it was due to the car coming out of its rich cells and then seeing the more aggressive timing at a decent afr. I've pulled the timing over the WOT cells now and it feels much smoother.
I have bags of torque in my daily, shame its in a 2 tonne Ford Ranger though! 😂
FYI I make 175 ft-lbs @ 2500 rpm and that's at the wheels.
There really is no replacement for displacement.
If i could go V8 I would 😜
Picked up my coilovers tonight from
@gtcc88 from the forum.
Pleasure to meet you.
I've been out again tonight adjusting and tweaking the fuelling on the map, little my little, slowly slowly catchy monkey!
The car now picks up much sooner in the rev range and I'm making 5psi at 2k and 10psi by 3.2kish.
Another couple of weeks doing two or three sessions a week on it and I'll start to bring some timing back in.
I'll aim to have the coilovers fitted this weekend and see how they feel.
Sounds good to me.
Only drawback of my Rotrex never going to make 5psi so low in the rev range. Good job I've got 3L to take up the slack.
Couldn't help myself, early morning and back from work for lunch managed to get the coilovers fitted.
Front I reckon 10-15 mins a side.
Rear had to use a small 18v rattle gun to get the tie road nut off and on again.
Test drive tomorrow!
I've got them set up 15 clicks from hard on the rear and 20 on the front.
OK, so I've had a couple of runs out in the car since fitting the coilovers.
The settings I put them on to start with was way to hard, I've ended up winding them all the way out to soft which seems fine for general road use, and I'll most likely stiffen them up for track use.
I've had a few mapping session's with the last one being tonight,finally getting AFR's a WOT to around 11.5.
I've started using the base map, fuel duty table to enrich rather than the INJ correction table and its much easier and allows you to interpolate for a smoother map.
The car will now pull all the way through 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th at WOT, wow its quick!
One thing I've started looking into after having a few higher than usual knocks (2 or 3 over an hour) (quite sporadic with no real pattern), which seem to be caused by timing being higher than what it should be in the main IGN Map tab.
It seems the IGL Map tab is definitely used on the 1ZZ PFC (there is a lot online about it only being used on the rx7 version), i changed the entire map to zero's generally they range from -2 to -12.
Once I'd changed it to zero, the timing recorded in the log was way higher than what the IGN map tab was saying and the car was showing knock really badly.
So quickly averted the IGL map tab back to what was in place before and no knocks.
However, the logs will often show the timing being slightly higher than shown in the IGN table.
From the looks of it if the IGL map reads -10 then the timing shown in the log is with +-1 deg of the IGN map for the given cell.
It was getting late tonight before I started playing with the IGL map, so I'll do some more playing tomorrow (if i get a pass out) or next week.
Also managed to pick up some spare wet weather tyres in a staggered fitment from
@wotugonado should hopefully be picking them up next week at some point.
So if anyone can shed some light on the IGL map that would be great. (I know its an old ecu, so the winding mechanism might be on its way out!)
I promise I'll go proper standalone when I forge it. :)
I very impressed that you're trying it a yourself.
I'm not a fan of the PFC it is lacking in modern safety features but if it's working for you well done
Thanks Scott, I'm certain the IGl has a function and is directly related to the IGN map. But it'd just working out under what parameters.
I'm at the stage now where fuelling is only needing minor amendments, but what's good for load in one gear isn't necessarily right for the other gear.
I've verged on the safety side and if one or the other has to run lean or rich, I'm airing on the side of caution and going slightly richer.
Timing on a full pull, from 3k onwards is hovering around 14-15 degrees, which is bring up knock values in the low 20's.
Getting the base fueling table is key. So you're spot on.
Good practice for when you get another standalone.
Injector settings and base fueling table (VE) are key to any compensation tables. If you get those wrong, then you'll be chasing your tail forever and make tuning increasingly difficult.
VE doesn't change as it's your engines physical capability to displace air. So get that right for stoich and you're laughing.
I've now trawled through some old celica threads and found slightly different way of how the IGN and IGL are set and a different Vvti map from what I've seen elsewhere.
I'll give each of these a try IGN and IGL 1st, then revert back to old settings to test the vvti map, then all three together.
The IGN seems to have a much more aggressive timing to it, but the IGL it's linked to is majorly different to the one I'm currently running so will be interesting to see what difference it makes.
Ok so managed to get out for hour this lunch time in the car to give the new Map settings a test.
First off drove my usual test route, where there's chance to open the car up with the old settings in.
Pulled over, loaded in a tweaked MWR racing map I'd found from a known good car, although the load and RPM where different so I used it as a basis for to start from.It wasn't the full map only the tabs for IGN, IGL and VVT and went off.
Same road again, car seem to pull much smoother (potential placebo affect) I did have one high knock reading towards the end of third gear, went back and checked through the log and IGN timing seemed to be the cause at 19*.
Wound that cell and the surrounding ones down by a couple of degrees and back out for another test, all seems fine with smooth power delivery, 10psi coming around 2.8k now.
So I finally 99% happy with the timing map and it just minor adjustments to the fuelling now.
I'd spent some time the night before going through logs and updating the base map offline, ready to load up when I next got in the car and AFR's are pretty much exactly where I want them with no peaks and troughs.
I'll put up the Maps below for those interested.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48782495287_7299c865e1_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48781963703_b85b03ce49_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48782495202_9225a9e8ba_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48782326966_1e5e1f4644_z.jpg)
Quick question which clutch did you end up with ? im hopefully picking up a turbo kit at the weekend so if all goes to plan will be joining the 1zz turbo club soon :) no doubt my 100k clutch isn't going to be happy about that hence the question! :D
I went for the 2zz compressor clutch from the corolla.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F302260983274 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F302260983274)
Be good to have another turbo build going.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on September 26, 2019, 07:56I went for the 2zz compressor clutch from the corolla.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F302260983274 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F302260983274)
Be good to have another turbo build going.
Thanks I will put that on the list and looking at a few options, I don't want something that makes it a chore to drive on road so an oe solution like that is good shout if it can handle the boost/usage, I think exedy also do a stage1 organic upgrade over that as well but will do more research.
Im keen to get started on build but need to go and remove/pickup kit first before im sure exactly what im getting, its supposed to be complete kit with everything I need from a running car to directly swap over but ive heard that before! im sure there will be a few bits to tweak to my needs and will be getting a build thread up once I have the kit :D
Its your build that has swayed me over going 2zz which was original plan, im concerned about getting good used engine and then oil starvation issue/engine failures etc, making use of my 1zz first seems best plan
I've been to see
@wotugonado this afternoon to pick up some spare wheels, they'll be going on this Weekend as its getting a bit wet for the nankangs at the minute.
Also picked up a rear poly bushed whiteline arb whilst I was there too.
Took the old arb off tonight in the garage, the old drop links have seen better days so ordered a new set ready for fitting in the next couple of days.
Also ordered a 2.5" straight decat pipe (for a focus St) with a two bolt flange, I'll be chopping this up to make into my own system from the malian down pipe and sports cat.
Nice to see the bits being reused, and quickly, no messing around...
Dont go too stiff on the rear ARB unless you want to be backwards into a ditch lol.... i found with my whiteline rear bar it was a bit too responsive for me even on softest setting, dont get me wrong car felt amazingly responsive and super darty but so much so the rear could easily break away on turn in if not being very smooth, ok on track with hot sticky tyres but i found it a bit much for road and the sprints events i do so went back to stock rear bar, kept whitleline on the front though and now balance and traction is far better.
Quote from: thetyrant on October 1, 2019, 15:10Dont go too stiff on the rear ARB unless you want to be backwards into a ditch lol.... i found with my whiteline rear bar it was a bit too responsive for me even on softest setting, dont get me wrong car felt amazingly responsive and super darty but so much so the rear could easily break away on turn in if not being very smooth, ok on track with hot sticky tyres but i found it a bit much for road and the sprints events i do so went back to stock rear bar, kept whitleline on the front though and now balance and traction is far better.
Thanks for the heads up, I'll bear it in mind.
Will most likely go softest setting anyway.
New tie rods came today, so for the new ARB fitted. Didn't do a proper side by side comparison but with the tie rod in the softest setting, it looked really close to the bottom of the coilover.
So I've gone up one hole for a little more clearance.
It was done in a dimely lot garage, so may take another look when it's next up on a ramp.
Also got a package from
@s12vea today in form of a new double din android head unit.
So will try and get that in tomorrow or the weekend.
Might nip out for a drive now on the new wheels/tyres and arb and see what the difference is.
New wheels and tyres are definitely lighter than my stock wheels with ns2r's on.
That arrived quickly :)
Been doing a bit of "totting up" not sure whether it was a good or bad idea, just to see where I am spend vs performance wise.
Base Car: £2,500.00
Turbo Manifold: £200.00
Turbo: £260.00
Oil lines: £100.00
Gauges: £300.00
Apexi PFC: £550.00
Charge Pipes: £200.00
Oil Cooler: £120.00
Charge Cooler: £350.00
Injectors: £150.00
Roll Cage: £250.00
Bracing: £350.00
Seats: £300.00
Wheels: £250.00
Clutch: £175.00
Original Sump: £50.00
Sundries: £100.00
Coilovers: £580.00
£6,785.00
I'm pretty confident your couldn't go much faster in a mid engine RWD 2 seater for less....there is probably some stuff I've forgotten though too..Considering I could spend more on a mountain bike, but haven't for a year or two I think this is money much better spent, I mean the base van for the camper was £6k and that's awful to drive!
Granted done it all in my garage and don't have any "mapping" costs etc, but there''s loads of things on there you don't need if you're going to look at turbo'ing one of these.
On the back of that my £20 decat pipe has arrived.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48843106201_0e3164d4ca_c.jpg)
I'll be cutting this up and creating a straight 2.5" pipe out of the centre from the cat back, a couple of 90" bends job done, no fuss.
Posting in here too, jsmust as a reminder to myself.
Out in the car tonight with new wheels with worn Toyo Proxes T1R's.
Usually have nankang ns2r's on.
Abs was kicking in under quite light braking, so tested it a little more on some open roads.
It got to the point where the rear was trying to come around.
Road surface was dryish, so I'll put it down to that and potentially tyres.
But when I first got in I thought the brake bias was all shot!
After having a nosey around some old threads on here and on spyder hat I'm a little more releaved now.
I'm booked on at Blyton on the 20th October so may experiment with removing the abs fuse, as I've had cars without abs before.
I also seem to be getting boost creeping uoto 12psi, when over 5k even though I've got a 9psi spring in the actuator.
I've ordered one of mambas variable actuators to see how that works with a 5psi spring in, to see if it is creep or not.
I'll also play about with a more free flowing exhaust to see if this is hampering the creep, as I've using a larger turbo than the TTE turbo.
Toyo T1-R are an awful tyre on a performance car, be careful! they do get better once half worn though so get drifting :) the newer TR-1 is meant to be a lot better but ive not tried them myself yet.
New tyres ordered.
Decided I'll use my nankang's as my 'wet' option.
So I've gone whole hog and ordered some R888r's for the summer.
Taking the sump of tomorrow night ready to fit the elise parts one I've got, subject to where the oil drain is located.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on October 8, 2019, 18:27I also seem to be getting boost creeping uoto 12psi, when over 5k even though I've got a 9psi spring in the actuator.
I've ordered one of mambas variable actuators to see how that works with a 5psi spring in, to see if it is creep or not.
I'll also play about with a more free flowing exhaust to see if this is hampering the creep, as I've using a larger turbo than the TTE turbo.
Boost creep can be caused by a few things but first is to check the actuator operation and plumbing, i use a foot pump with gauge to check its opening at correct pressure and holding pressure as well, if the actuator vac side is working ok and opening/holding etc then it could be a wastegate restriction issue, either not opening fully or not having enough flow, ive had this in past with TD05 turbo i had on the Evo and basically once i opened up exhaust with larger bore downpipe/system (which lets the turbo flow better) then the wastegate couldnt flow enough past the turbine to control boost when needed, refitting a stock front pipe was short term cure but to sort it properly i had to remove and port the wastegate hole and fit larger flap for better flow to match bigger exhaust, same issue on my old Celica GT4 so i kept stock front pipe on that to prevent it which wasnt and issue as kept it stock boost.
As you have a fairly restrictive exhaust i doubt its that and more likely the wastegate/actuator etc isnt functioning as it should,if you free up exhaust more with decat it will most likley make it worse if it is wastegate not flowing enough.
Quote from: thetyrant on October 10, 2019, 08:58Quote from: Gaz2405 on October 8, 2019, 18:27I also seem to be getting boost creeping uoto 12psi, when over 5k even though I've got a 9psi spring in the actuator.
I've ordered one of mambas variable actuators to see how that works with a 5psi spring in, to see if it is creep or not.
I'll also play about with a more free flowing exhaust to see if this is hampering the creep, as I've using a larger turbo than the TTE turbo.
Boost creep can be caused by a few things but first is to check the actuator operation and plumbing, i use a foot pump with gauge to check its opening at correct pressure and holding pressure as well, if the actuator vac side is working ok and opening/holding etc then it could be a wastegate restriction issue, either not opening fully or not having enough flow, ive had this in past with TD05 turbo i had on the Evo and basically once i opened up exhaust with larger bore downpipe/system (which lets the turbo flow better) then the wastegate couldnt flow enough past the turbine to control boost when needed, refitting a stock front pipe was short term cure but to sort it properly i had to remove and port the wastegate hole and fit larger flap for better flow to match bigger exhaust, same issue on my old Celica GT4 so i kept stock front pipe on that to prevent it which wasnt and issue as kept it stock boost.
As you have a fairly restrictive exhaust i doubt its that and more likely the wastegate/actuator etc isnt functioning as it should,if you free up exhaust more with decat it will most likley make it worse if it is wastegate not flowing enough.
Thanks for the info.
So boost creep saga continues..
Checked all vaccum/plumbing etc everything working as it should no leaks.
Fitted a new mamba 5psi wastegate tonight to see what difference it made.
I had 5psi of boost as expected until about 3.8kish then it just ramped up to 12psi.
So get home, burn my fingers removed the circlip on the actuator and ran it with the flap open.
Seeing 1-2 psi until around 3.8k again then I've got 6psi with the flap open! I then get too rich in the map and it runs like a dog so won't rev any further.
So my name next test is going to put the old actuator on (9.6psi) if I remember, but play around with the positioning of the wastegate flap where I set it, essentially have it 1/2 open to start with.
Failing that it seems like it's turbo off and porting the wastegate (which I really can't be bothered doing) or just running it at 12psi until it goes pop then forge it.
I had boost creep on the dyno and still made the numbers I've got, but the question is, is it boost that kills engines of horse power? Only one way to find out.
My other option I've got is I've got some exhaust parts coming tomorrow to make a more free flowing exhaust, would this help with the creep?? Or make it worse?
I was going to fit my Elsie parts sump tonight, but instead I've locked it back in the garage and having a beer and a paddy as its not working properly 😂
Torque kills engines IMHO
What turbo is it?
A gt25 running 10 psi is a very different beast to a gt35 running 10psi
It's a brand new Td04 15t, usually found on Saab hot 93's good for just under 300bhp on their engines.
The megane 225's and r26 came with the Td04 14t and ran around 12psi at standard boost with them.
I've played about with the position of the actuator vs the wastegate position now to it's not fully closed.
But that will have to wait until tomorrow for a test.
I'm thinking there's got to be a sweet spot somewhere, as it made 5psi with the flap open, so bring it back slightly with the a higher rated apeng and it should hopefully settle at 10psi.
Hmm does sound like wastegate isn't big enough to allow enough flow past turbine to keep boost down, with flap wired open you should make very little boost and even then only higher gears when you really have some load/flow on there.
I went through all this on the Evo and in the end it came down to porting or fitting external wastegate which is best solution but not always that easy to do!... a smaller exhaust helped but then I was restricted on power due to high egt from so much back pressure, I even made a little linkage to make wastegate go even wider but it made no difference for me.
Opening up the exhaust will make yours worse if it is wastegate creep as it allows turbo to spin even more freely and wastegate has even harder time getting boost down.
Having set your actuator so its not closed and bleeds a little initially so makes boost a bit slower to build will help until you get into higher gears, then there will be so much gas it wont matter and you will get creep again, lowering rev limiter short term fix but no fun then I guess.
You could make pressure release after turbo and in fact my old Evos leaking dump valve was doing this and masking the creep after I fitted bigger exhaust, only when I fitted a new dump valve and tightened everything up did the creep start, also explained why I was hitting fuel cut as despite engine only getting 12psi or so the turbo was sucking 20+ past the pre-turbo maf!
I am concerned my turbo setup im going to have same issue as I would like to run a 5psi map and a 10psi map, ive tested actuator and its moving at 9-10psi so I know I cant run less and was going to source a lower psi actuator, but I think wastegate creep could be an issue like you have so I might port wastegate before it goes on, I know from previous experience its not just about making port bigger either but also the flow path into it, in fact a turbo I bought from NZ from one of the best in world building them had stock size port hole just the entry way was much better shaped and I could run really low boost if I wanted on that turbo, my 1st diy porting I just made hole lots bigger and it still crept a bit until I improved the flow path as well.
Bloody cars eh!
Yes I think it's definitely a wastegate flow issue,I've just been out in it again with the ao bleeding a little, all is does is just takes its time to build boost and then straight into the 10's again.
I think for next weekend (Blyton) in just going to run it as I have been doing and let the creep do it's thing.
We're tailoring one of the cars there with my truck (M3) and I'm driving mine there so there's a 50/50 chance it'll get back if it goes!
To be honest after Blyton I'll not be using it much over the winter so may just bite the bullet on some rods and pistons and have an engine build to keep me occupied over the winter months, then the boost won't be an issue!
If I'm going to go to the hassle of unbolting everything to get to the turbo to take it off and try to port it which still isn't a guaranteed fix, I may as well just pull the engine and do it all on a stand.
A quick Google finds the td04's are notorious for boost creep.
Forging the motor is one option but much less work/money to pull the turbo and port wastegate :)
If it was me with Trackday looming I would just make sure map is safe at boost its creeping to and not push it too hard revs wise see how it goes, having trailer there will be handy should worst happen!
Map is safe through the creep, I'll be logging on the day anyway to keep an eye on things, may drop the limiter to 6.5k to be on the safe side.
If it survives I may look at porting first, but will most likely build it instead, or push the limits on a standard block/build to see where it can go.
That's good to know, seems plenty run 12psi on stock motor despite it being right on edge of what is classed as safe, also as its not a harsh boost spike but a gradual creep it should make it easier on the internals, do you have a log showing it in higher gears ? not sure if the PFC can generate a csv log file or something that can be turned into one? if so then uploading to datazap.me is great way to visualise logs.
Here is a datazap of a 3rd gear run in my old 135i bm when playing with cobb mapping to show you how it looks, you can just select which items you want displayed on graph by selecting them along bottom of graph - https://datazap.me/u/thetyrant/stage1-aggressive-3rd-gear?log=0&data=2-10-11
On the Evo i only used to get it in 4th and 5th as that thing passed through lower gears so quickly it never had chance to creep!, bit like you wasn't until i was looking at trackday and was doing a few high gear pulls to set boost controller i noticed i couldn't control it in higher gears due to the creep!
Ive been reading more about the SP240 kits like mine running out of puff at top end with boost taper so hopefully im not going to have an issue, i would like a low boost map though and as the saab 9000 (what turbo comes from) runs 6psi in some guises im hoping i can as well so not going to port wastegate....yet!
Hope sump install goes ok :D
Interesting read. Keen to see what you do with the engine. 👍
Quote from: thetyrant on October 11, 2019, 07:49That's good to know, seems plenty run 12psi on stock motor despite it being right on edge of what is classed as safe, also as its not a harsh boost spike but a gradual creep it should make it easier on the internals, do you have a log showing it in higher gears ? not sure if the PFC can generate a csv log file or something that can be turned into one? if so then uploading to datazap.me is great way to visualise logs.
Here is a datazap of a 3rd gear run in my old 135i bm when playing with cobb mapping to show you how it looks, you can just select which items you want displayed on graph by selecting them along bottom of graph - https://datazap.me/u/thetyrant/stage1-aggressive-3rd-gear?log=0&data=2-10-11
On the Evo i only used to get it in 4th and 5th as that thing passed through lower gears so quickly it never had chance to creep!, bit like you wasn't until i was looking at trackday and was doing a few high gear pulls to set boost controller i noticed i couldn't control it in higher gears due to the creep!
Ive been reading more about the SP240 kits like mine running out of puff at top end with boost taper so hopefully im not going to have an issue, i would like a low boost map though and as the saab 9000 (what turbo comes from) runs 6psi in some guises im hoping i can as well so not going to port wastegate....yet!
Hope sump install goes ok :D
Yes it's only gradual so hoping it will be OK.
Similar to your Evo, don't get it in 1st and 2nd, 3rd only sometimes dependant on load whether on a hill or not etc.
And in terms of 4th I should really be getting that high up the rev range at Blyton with it.
No graph showing boost, as it's just on std waetgate and my pfc doesn't have boost controller input or output.
Datazap looks good.
Similar to how I have my graphs set up on my pfc when logging.
I usually have water, intake temp, knock, rpm, ign timing and afr running along side each other. I find that gives me enough info for tweaking the map as and when.
Hopefully you'll be OK with the sp240 kit, if they tend to trail off anyway.
For the road Sp240 power is plenty, but we always want more!
Got the elise parts sump fitted today.
Hardest part was cleaning the surface on the block! Other than that a doddle.
I decided to fit a new oil return higher up in the pan than the standard place.
1. Because mine is a larger oil drain that the supplied welded fitting.
2. Because it just seems to low for a oil return.
All in all about 1.5 hours (I'd dropped the oil the day before)
Think I've got my GoPro angle sorted.
Actuator still letting some air bleed, so needs sorting.
Quick trip back home.
Actuator adjusted now getting 10psi 1000rpm sooner.
So Blyton today, 1st time on track in the mr2.
Boost creep was insane with creep upto 14psi!
Car still managed just fine, until the return from the second outing.
I had a family big oil leak which looked like it was coming from the gearbox end of the sump.
I managed to get another 1/4-1/2 of a turn on the sump bolts. Wiped everything down and went out up the road for a quick test.
Got back and everything seemed OK, so went back out again.
Came back in with just a slight weep.
I'm thinking that the higher boost from the creep has caused some blow by and pressurised the crank case and potentially blown the seal on the crank seal.
I wasn't losing any oil in terms of level, but it had dropped to 3/4 and was holding.
Decided to call it a day and not get oil over the track for everyone.
1 1/2 drive home and no loss in oil level but still a slight weep.
Pulled into the garage when I got home, cleaned it up with degreaser and will see how it settles.
Ive ordered an oil catch tank to help with crank case pressure and will set it up vented rather than closed loop.
Hopefully this will sort it and it's not the main seal and that it was just blown by with high crank case pressure.
Two other roadsters there today being driven to within an inch of their lives too!
Bugger! but at least you had a few laps and made it home in 1 piece so that's a result :)
What sealant did you use on sump? Could just of been an issue wih that? I guess you will be able to tell better once you get a proper look and can see if it's coming down out of bellhousing or not, fingers crossed it's just sump sealant.
Yeah I'm hoping it was only leaking under massive crank case pressure.
I'll fit the cat h tank and vent it to atmosphere as a cheap option to see if it fixes it.
If not I've already told the wife it's getting rebuilt and forged. 😂
Car handled well whilst it was out, took sometime getting used to it as I'm from fwd back ground, Ns2r's seemed to go off after around 5 laps.
I'll do some tinkering over winter and see what we can come back with.
Spendings got to stop for a few months on it though as we've just had an extension started at home that needs paying for!
Im not sure how you would get huge crankcase pressure enough to blow a seal though, also i think car would be very smoky with such crankcase pressure!, even if the full turbo pressure was getting into crankcase i dont think you would blow the seal, as you have 1way valve on PCV only way it would allow pressure in is past the pistons which would only happen if engine was knackered, maybe check the 1way valve on PCV hasnt failed ? i think its just the sump sealant and hope its easy fix for you.
Sooooooo.
Got home today, did a Compression test to double check engine health.
Done on a cold engine all were bang on 175psi.
Still pondering the oil issue I checked if the 1 valve working on the pcv line.
NOPE!
So that's where my crank case pressure has come from.
I'd also previously driven the car hard to check the sump for leaks, so I'm pretty certain oil has got past the crankshaft seal but when under boost.
And since I spent nearly the entire time on track somewhere between 10 and 14 psi, I'm hoping by blocking off the Pcv at the throttle body end and venting to a catch can on the other my problems are hopefully solved..
So a bit more digging looking back through my purchases, check valve only rated to 0.6bar.
What a bell end.
Actually double checking no it might be rated to 6 bar not 0.6 bar.
Still, its blowing straight through both ways now!
I thought it would be that :) get a good one on there see how it goes and hopefully sorts the issue for not much expense :D
Quote from: Gaz2405 on September 23, 2019, 16:23I'll put up the Maps below for those interested.
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Just been having a good look over these now im tinkering with my mapping, obviously hard to compare directly due to different Ecu's but interesting non the less, the VVTi map done by previous tuner on my ecu was all over the place compared to others ive seen and yours, the PFC numbers are reversed compare to the Link to your PFC 60 is 0 in the Link but i can still see the pattern and yours looks more like others ive seen, im going to try mine with a similar shape and see how that affects things.
Is the Load scale on the PFC relevant to anything standard ( pressure, air flow etc) or is it there own thing ? just looking for point you change from vacuum into boost really so i have something to reference from.
I'm not entirely sure where the load is taken from if I'm honest.
I've played around with a few vvti maps and this one seems to be the most commonly used.
Quick update, I still have the oil leak and its not from the sump.
Under closer inspection after cleaning with brake cleaner and taking it for a run, it would seem its coming from the crankshaft seal.
So looks like it's engine out over winter and forged build here we come. In for a penny in for a pound and all that!
Thats a bugger but at at least you can build a nice strong motor now :)
Ive been reading on Valve cover breathers and PCV etc when turboing these cars to see what people are using as im close to fitting mine, the kit i took off had the rear valve cover vent on back of head routed to the intake pipework before turbo but most seem to just fit a filter on back of head which i will probably do and i think you have as well ?
PCV fitting from side of rocker cover was from what i remember connected as stock and dont recall seeing an additional 1 way valve in the pipework! but i may of missed it while removing everything and i didnt pull that pipe totally off the car so its not in my box of bits, adding in this 1way valve to prevent boost into PCV fitment from pressuring engine is a must as you know, im worried about 1way valve failure causing the same issue you had so i think i will route my PCV to the intake pipe before turbo via a filtered catch can, this should hopefully keep intake clean but still pull vented air out the rocker like stock but without pressure on it form turbo.
I'm not sure I saw any replies to your previous question about the TTE being restrictive (or if you had ditched it?)... .but to answer that - it probably is if you're going anything beyond a fairly entry level 200bhp turbo build.
I love my TTE for being the rorty little audio upgrade that it is, but that's all it is - I'm not kidding myself that it makes the car ANY faster and I know it'll be the first thing to go if I ever get around to an engine swap or if I want any serious power :(
Quote from: BahnStormer on October 28, 2019, 17:51I'm not sure I saw any replies to your previous question about the TTE being restrictive (or if you had ditched it?)... .but to answer that - it probably is if you're going anything beyond a fairly entry level 200bhp turbo build.
I love my TTE for being the rorty little audio upgrade that it is, but that's all it is - I'm not kidding myself that it makes the car ANY faster and I know it'll be the first thing to go if I ever get around to an engine swap or if I want any serious power :(
I do still have the TTE, but have bought the parts to fabricate a new system which be essentially a 2.5" straight from the sports cat.
Currently waiting to hear back from a local machine shop on pricing for having the block sleeved and going to 82mm pistons.
Well done on the turbo build and thanks for sharing. Good luck with the engine modifications over the winter.
Quote from: Astralplane666 on November 2, 2019, 11:47Well done on the turbo build and thanks for sharing. Good luck with the engine modifications over the winter.
I'm only in Holmfirth of you ever fancy a gander.
OK, so found a local engineering shop that will do Darton sleeves for £700, so I'm on the look out for a spare engine to use as the build base.
In other news ordered a new main seal to swap over in the mean time.
Started on removing the gearbox in the garage, but of a ball ache as I didn't have a 30mm 12 point socket for the hub.
Not to be defeated I undid everything around the hub to give it enough room to get the drive shaft out by swinging the hub out.
Gearbox is out now and car rolled back into the garage with the trolley jack holding the back end up.
I'll try and get under it tomorrow to whip the clutch and flywheel off but from a quick inspection definitely looks like it's that seal.
Some pictures to go with the above, also had loads of oil on the inside of the flywheel.
This is after it had had a quick wipe down as well.
Gearbox now has had a lick of paint and new sea should be coming today hopefully.
The job itself is quite easy, its just removing everything to get to it!
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Ok so new seal arrived in the post today.
So I've been under the car tonight, swapping it over, gave the face of the engine a clean down the clutch and brake cleaner.
Pulled the old seal out and pressed the new one in, you had to work and twist it around to get it started then firmly seated it with a rubber/plastic mallet.
Whilst I was under there I also drilled and tapped out the snapped sump bolt I had as it was the one closest to the gearbox and I couldn't get access with the box on. (this wasn't the cause of the leak as its been on two different sumps like that now, but for piece of mind)
Just banged in the 1st bolt in I came across, looks rough, but works and that's all that matters it ain't no show car.
I've also cleaned up the gearbox mounts that are off and given them a lick of smooth hammerite black and silver for the gearbox.
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Hopefully I'll get the box back on at the weekend and give her a test drive if it's dry.
Another step closer
Quick post.
Gearbox back on. What a bastard!
Don't fancy wrestling it on again just in the garage. I'll take it somewhere with a lift next time.
So everything is now back together. Took the car out for a quick spin.
No oil leak, but I do have a weep on the os driveshaft. Lazy of me really should have replaced the gearbox seals whilst I had it out.
It's most likely out of shape slightly after wrestling with the the gearbox to get it home properly.
I'll pull both shafts and replace both seals whilst I'm at it.
Order two new seals from mr2 Ben for £30.
I get around dn to fitting them in the next couple of weeks.
Do after reading JB21's issue on his 2zz with the elise parts baffled sump I decided to drop the oil on mine tonight.
Full oil drop showed 4.8l with the filter still on, this was showing full on the dip stick.
Whilst I've got the sump drained I'm going to take the sump off again to double and triple check the seal on it.
Also drained the gearbox oil ready for new drive shaft seals.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on November 10, 2019, 17:24Do after reading JB21's issue on his 2zz with the elise parts baffled sump I decided to drop the oil on mine tonight.
Full oil drop showed 4.8l with the filter still on, this was showing full on the dip stick.
Whilst I've got the sump drained I'm going to take the sump off again to double and triple check the seal on it.
Also drained the gearbox oil ready for new drive shaft seals.
I was going to ask how much oil you put in after fitting it, sounds right with the 1zz setup as that's 1litre more than stock sump which I think is what EP say it takes.
So.... New drive shaft seals in.
Sump resealed.
All fluids back in.
Boost now on a 12psi actuator.
Couple of hours mapping on the road and it's back in business!
Did have a bit of a scare when I was getting what felt like fuel cut 5.5k rpm in third.
Spent a good few runs trying to sort it, ended up being a fat finger moment on the base map, it was trying to run 479% injector duty in one cell, rather than the 47.9% I thought I'd put it! Spanner!
Upped the timing by a 1-2 degrees in a few places where it looked it could take it. Max knock is still below 25, with most in the teens.
Got home checked for fluid leaks, nothing at all, so treated her to a jet wash and tucked her back away.
Next job is to start working in the exhaust and remove the TTE back box.
Couple of hours out in the car this weekend fiddling with the map and boost pressure.
I'm running the 12psi spring but with a decent amount of pre load meaning its actually 14psi.
Boost is coming in nice and early and not in one big wallop.
Car definitely pulls a lot harder now and is a beast WOT in 1st and 2nd.
Which in reality it won't be getting much of that on the road or on track.
I doubled checked by oil temps normall driving I'm seeing 80-85, but the sensor is directly after the oil cooler.
I've ordered another header tanl for the charge cooler, to open out the fitting to AN12 rather than the AN6 that's currently on there.
Other than that snould be picking up a few engines as spares to build shortly.
Nice man, wish I could do all that myself. What ECU/Software you using?
It's only an apexi pfc, has the basics but none of the safety features so have to start really conservatively with timing and fuelling. Then go from there.
Okay, I might have a look into all that. Some holiday reading.
What's your plans for the gearbox once you're finished building the engine?
Gearbox wise I'm going to see how the standard one holds up.
I've read about the jubu gears etc.
But I'll most likely look at putting one in from a different model or even make.
It will mean a bell housing adapter plate, and driveshaft/hub modifications.
If I do end up going down a different manufacturer I'd try and make a honda work, as drive shafts are available.
Took the car out earlier this afternoon thinking the roads might be OK.
Struggled to find any dry roads hasn't rained for a ouole of days but still very greasy, car is useless in these conditions can't get any power down at all combination of summer tyres and boost.
Still nice to get out for few hours to have a little shake down since it's been in bits for a while.
Made a change to log the whole drive in 'normal' driving conditions to keep an eye on everything.
Quick trip to the jet wash before tucking it back into the hibernation in the garage.
Managed to get a few bits done over the Christmas break on the car.
I've ordered a new aluminium header tank with 19mm tails for the charge cooler set up to eradicate the bottle necks I had in the system, which should help keep intake temps down on track.
Got a an aluminium catch talank fitted and set up venting to atmosphere.
I've also ordered some 15mm and 20mm spacers from Mr2-Ben to experiment with different track width and also bought an arch roller just incase too.
The car has a had a couple of long trips over the break with 2x Yorkshire to Oxford trips which to by better half's delight was used as one great big mapping session to get the cruising AFR's to where I wanted them.
I'm still reasonable undecided as to whether to go Kswap or forge another 1zz for the next stage.
I've looked into the EA60 gearbox swap and it seems pretty straight forward (in terms of a box swap). Looks like it will involve lotus shifter and cables, a potential bell housing adaptor plate and drive shafts.
Other options for sticking with 1zz forged would be a quaife gearbox, which I haven't ruled out.
If I go kswap it will most likely be a K24 rather than k20 or k20/24.
Jeez man, kseries is the ultimate swap. There's a k24 with k20 head on eBay at the moment for a grand...
Forged 1ZZ can be much cheaper though.
Have you seen the roadster sport rods for 1zz on ebay? 225quid. They reckon people are running those with stock pistons at 320+HP.. No need for darton sleeves and all that.
Would like to see how the stock gearbox holds up at 300HP. Strap an oil cooler to it and hope for the best.
I've been doing some rough excel build sheets a little more realistic.
Forged 1zz coming at about £3k-£5k depending on how much of the build I do myself with an allowance for Jubu gears.
Kswap (turbo) coming in at around £6k-£8k. Without a rebuild.
Forged 1zz with sequential box in at around £8-£10k
Interesting stuff going on with frankenstein motorworks.
Making a 2GR more of a home grown possibility. Which I think would come in a similar money to the kswap using a EA60 gearbox and if you're not afraid to use the angle grinder and do a bit of welding.
I'll see how mine goes in its current for the foreseeable future and keep on doing the research before deciding which way to go. Once the building work is done at home (next couple of months) I should get some garage space back to tinker in. But won't have the time as I'll be fitting a new kitchen and rebuilding the sub-floor 🤣.
I absolutely love the idea of the k24 conversion, but every clip I've seen so far of a conversion seems to suggest it brings imbalance to the car, leading to a very iffy back end.
Spirit MR-S owner indirectly confirmed that in a video of a tour of his car. He's asked about K20 and his reply was its too heavy and breaks the balance of the car.
Makes you wonder.
The 2gr or 1mz doesn't seem to have this effect.... Odd.
Quote from: shnazzle on January 9, 2020, 21:25I absolutely love the idea of the k24 conversion, but every clip I've seen so far of a conversion seems to suggest it brings imbalance to the car, leading to a very iffy back end.
Spirit MR-S owner indirectly confirmed that in a video of a tour of his car. He's asked about K20 and his reply was its too heavy and breaks the balance of the car.
Makes you wonder.
The 2gr or 1mz doesn't seem to have this effect.... Odd.
Yes, you wouldn't really expect the imbalance, especially with how well 2GR and 1mz's are regarded.
With the power available though, I'm sure some moving some of the weight around the car (if you're that serious about it should go some way to eliminating the problem, its not like you'll be chasing the KG's for power to weight!
1st day back home this week, so had an hour in the garage as some "bits" had turned up.
I'm got a 20mm spacer on the rear wheel at the moment which I've also had to roll the arch slightly to accommodate. From looking at it from an awkward angle in the garage it seems ok and gives a better "stance" (god I hate that word!) I know it won't be everyone's cup of tea and we all have our own opinions on handling set ups, but you've got to try these things!
Got the oil catch tank in and the new expansion tank has arrived the charge cooler so I'll try and get that fitted over the weekend
Managed to get a couple of hours on the car today.
All spacers fitted 15mm front 20mm rear and rolled the arches to accommodate.
New header tank fitted and working much better, plenty of flow and now restricted passages anymore.
Took the car out for a quick blast, slight rub on the osr on bigger hits, would probably be OK on track as would be set stiffer. I'll take the wheel off and roll that one a little more or stiffen it up.
Few more purchases to come next week, barbarian middle and rear strut braces, omp steering wheel and boss.
Bit of a mini update with some pictures, I'll add the flickr links when I'm next on a laptop.
Rear brace cmae today so got that fitted.
I bought (purposefully), a fake/cheap omp wheel to check for size/shape/looks as its a flat bottom. I'll give a test drive and replace with the real deal if I prefer it.
Also new header tank is in, flow is roughly a thousand times better now with 19mm tails!!!
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Catch can also temp fitted in place with some tech screws to see how it does in that location.
Hey,
Can you point me from where did you buy these on the last pic? Are these oil catch cans or expansion tanks?
The header tank was a slight second from an ebay motorsport fabricator, as the brackets had been put in the wrong place.
Oil catch can was also an ebay special £25 or so.
Infact £15!
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F222730088198
Do say what your thoughts are on the rear brace..,
Quote from: jvanzyl on January 14, 2020, 20:55Do say what your thoughts are on the rear brace..,
Haven't had the car out to test the brace, I'm not expecting any difference from the standard to be honest.
I did have the lift the car up to get the studs to drop through the top mounts to fit it though and the the bulk head holes where quite tight, but nothing an 18v impact gun couldn't rattle in!
Quote from: Gaz2405 on January 14, 2020, 20:48The header tank was a slight second from an ebay motorsport fabricator, as the brackets had been put in the wrong place.
Oil catch can was also an ebay special £25 or so.
Infact £15!
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F222730088198
How many litters can you chuff in your header tank? There is on on ebay for 30 quids thats 2.5l but im not sure that the holes are big enough. If you can give me the seller from whom you purchased yours would be great. Thats the only item that is left for me to have all the parts :)
It probably holds around 1.5-2l.
Sellers details below.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/gone_autosport?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754
Cheers
Gary
Did some experimenting with losing the TTE back box today and using some 2.5" bends to create a cat back system to free up some flow.
It doesn't look pretty, but first test drive out it seems to do the job.
I'll probably test it on track before having a one piece system bent with no joints.
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First impressions of the size of of fake omp wheel was good as well, although it does create a blind spot at the businesses end of rev counter...
No silencer ? I bet that sounds fruity :) mine is pretty much same and only has a small carbon bike silencer and surprised how quiet it is, I will be fitting a larger silencer though as don't want any issues with noise limits on trackdays and while its not that loud outside it does drone a bit inside.
Yeah no silencer, it's not too bad actually.
I think it should pass most db tests.
mine's just a sports cat and no silencer and I was surprised how quiet it is!
Quote from: Gaz2405 on January 18, 2020, 18:02Yeah no silencer, it's not too bad actually.
I think it should pass most db tests.
I was surprised how reasonable mine is as well but im going to fit a larger one to be safe.
Don't suppose you have any pictures of your oil drain/return setup on car do you ? im still not happy with mine and about to redo it again and get turbo seals cheaked, be good to see how yours sits for reference :)
Got no pictures of it at the moment, but the car will be up on axle stands this weekend whilst I stone chip the under neath and fit my mid brace so I'll get some snaps.
It's basically as high up in the sump as possible with an AN16 fitting.
What is you feed size to the turbi, mine has a restrictor in it?
Quote from: Gaz2405 on January 19, 2020, 19:31Got no pictures of it at the moment, but the car will be up on axle stands this weekend whilst I stone chip the under neath and fit my mid brace so I'll get some snaps.
It's basically as high up in the sump as possible with an AN16 fitting.
What is you feed size to the turbi, mine has a restrictor in it?
Thanks that would be great if you could, are you sure its AN16 on sump thats a big bugger around 1" bore ?
Ive got a 3/4" bore fitting on my sump now and its as high as it will go but the drain down pipework to it from turbo is what im not happy with, turbo could do with clocking slightly to get it more direct down which i think doesnt help which im going to do, might be restricted on water pipes if i can get that perfect though but im going to try and get a better angle which will help drain and clearance from exhaust.
Oil feed on mine im not sure on size will measure when its off next but quite small pipe and there is a pop rivet restrictor inside connection to oil pressure fitting, this was done when kit was originally fitted to last car and think its around 1mm hole i think, ive read a fair bit about restrictors recently and for a normal journal bearing turbo they are not usually needed more for ball bearing turbos, however as its connected to high pressure feed from oil pressure port its probably a good idea and certainly no shortage of oil in my turbo!
Do you know what size restrictor is in yours ?
:)
Just double checked my order on the drain its actually an An12! So around 19mm id.
Restrictor is around 1mm as far as I can remember.
Oil drain on the turbo is bang on under neath m, had to clock and remove locating pins on the turbo.
Ah ok same size fitting as mine i though AN16 was a bit big :D
Im suprised more with TTE/SP kits dont have issues with oil drain/turbo seals etc as the the angle turbo is mounted at means the drain is more like 5 or 7 o'clock position rather than direct underneath at 6 o'clock position, way its mounted there is always going to be some oil sat in bottom of turbo especially when car is parked on a slope and with cold/thicker oil not good for seals, it must just be good enough when everything is tiptop but far from ideal in my eyes so will be working to improve it and the pipework.
See pic below from Wotungando's TTE kit and mine is about same angle, not so easy to see but if you look at water feed pipe whici is 90deg on chra to oil exit its a long way off straight out/in as well, doesnt matter for water of course but shows angle of chra.
(http://carbotech-europe.com/images/MR2/tte-oildrain.jpg)
That surely mean the oil will have to reach certain level in the turbo before it even gets to the drains hole.
Mine is bang on 6 o'clock, I'd clock it to make sure. A couple of quid on braided hoses and few hours graft.
Yes it will pool in bottom of turbo before it gets upto drain, it wont be a huge amount and shouldn't cause massive issue but certainly not ideal and it should be as you have it direct at 6 o'clock so its easy as it can be for oil to drain, after all as there is only gravity to push it out! i will measure how far off level it is when i get a minute.
Im suprised toyota didnt do a better job in this regard as rest of tte setup looks pretty well engineered, it does mean that a stock clocked saab turbo goes straight on in regards to where they want the air outlet to go between block and driveshaft but its not a huge job to clock it all to get oil drain in better place as well, maybe i will find out why when i try to improve it on mine!
Quick measure on my spare turbo looks like drain is 32degrees! away from optimum in stock clocked position so no wonder ive got oil drain issues, will update with more info and pictures on my build thread once i get it all off car and measure more accurately relative to engine etc.
Got a full weekend planned on 'fettling' the car this weekend as the wife is away in London with work.
Plans are to:
Strip all wheel arch liners out, clean behind rust treatment then stonechip piant.
Give the under body some rust treatment and stonechip protection.
Fit the Barbarian centre brace.
Slight reroute of the charge cooler piping underneath.
I've got a small 8" silencer to fit into the exhaust system.
Then get some of the drunk rusty items sorted and get the plastics back on.
Got home last night and got her up on axle stands ready for this morning.
Just out having coffee and breakfast before I start.
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Yes I know the garage needs a tidy.... 😂 But we're midway through an extension and have loads of other crap in there too.
Enjoy....about to go and get my turbo pulled off for fettling myself :D
So busy day today on the car.
All wheels off arch liners out, surface rust rubbed down and kurust applied. Then three layers of stone chip.
All the crap from the front arches below.
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First arch done.
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Won't bore you with the rest once you've seen one wheel arch you've seen them all!
Gave the drunk area a going over as well with kurust and stone chip.
Same principle with the underside full rub down then kurust and black stone chip.
Then got onto the Barbarian centre brace.
I already have the Barbarian front which was very tight to get fitted and was pondering how the two might interface together.
Having elongated the rear holes to make fitment easier, the front brackets just weren't going to slide up inbetwee or over the existing front brace. There just wasn't enough room.
So I lobbed half of the front bracket off, the part that with the bolt holes in and decided to drill the bracket and chassis rail to provide a bettee fitment.
With the brackets newly modified I was able to get the brace up snug against the other.
A couple of pilot holes, the I dropped the brace down and put in some M10 rivnut into the chassis rail, having a decent impact gun was a godsend to get the rivnut to crimp up.
Once they were in brace then bolted Straight in, it's also enabled me to keep the original centre brace, but I do have a cusco one laying around but might put that up for sale.
Then moved onto the exhaust, a quicn mock up front the top now has an 8" silencer/muffler in.
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Tomorrow is getting the frunk plastic back on along with arch liners and start measuring up for some under body aero and fiishing up the exhaust.
Preparing for another day on the car, with another full English 😂 different cafe this time.
I've realised there's a couple of spots near where the rear Control arms mount that needs some rust treatment and stone chip so I'll get those done first thing.
Managed to get all the plastics back in the arches, silencer added to exhaust system and all back together.
That'll do for today.
You can see below how I've had to modify the centre brace bracket.
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Productive weekend :) , does it sound much different with that little silencer added in? is suspect it wont do much for overall noise but should help with drone when cruising :D
Ive been busy with mine as well this weekend, just got it all back together but need to fabricate pipe for oil return once tube arrives then im good to fire up again.
It's not been out for a drive yet, but definitely quieter at idle.
Installed a 3.3ohm resistor yesterday for the airbag light for the steering wheel, had a bit of trouble getting it to register as the fitment wasn't quite as snug as I'd like, but a bit of solder over the legs to thicken them up worked a treat.
Although did find a quick way of deleting the lght altogether, airbag ECU behind the stereo pull out the first plug, no lght at all.
Bought some cheap 5mm foamex board 8 sheet of A1 for £10 to mock up a flat undertray and possible rear diffuser.
Front bumper wise think I'm going to go TRD style splitter with a flat slitter attached to that and TRD skirts or similar and most likley the HZ Dynamics bonnet for better flow through the radiator and create an air dam to feed it.
Still looking into rear aero, from research so far looks like big wang gang provides best down force, but I don't lile the look so will probably go for a ducktail.
So yeah, that thing when you go to check when your MOT runs out and find it ran out in November!
Ooooppps!
Did the mad panic and checked all the other cars in the house, luckily they're all still in in date. Campervan van is due March so caught that one in the nick of time!
I'll go for th text alert next time!
Quote from: Gaz2405 on January 31, 2020, 09:06So yeah, that thing when you go to check when your MOT runs out and find it ran out in November!
Ooooppps!
Did the mad panic and checked all the other cars in the house, luckily they're all still in in date. Campervan van is due March so caught that one in the nick of time!
I'll go for th text alert next time!
Happens to me all the time.
Car is getting dropped off tomorrow at the garage for its MOT later in the week.
I'm pretty certain it should be OK on and go through.
Handbrake holds on our drive which is on a considerable slope if yanked all the way up.
But I did have a thought last night about emissions.
It's only running a 200 cell cat, idle afr is stoich, but will have to check fast idle later.
Will be interesting to see how it goes on emmisson test but hpoefully ok, a 200cell cat should pass if decent quality but will take some extra heating up i think, also will see how good your fueling map is for the Lambda etc :) im guessing the PFC doesnt have closed loop fuelling control ? ive just turned activated mine on the Link after spending ages getting fuelling as close as i could manually, pleased to see the closed loop isnt havent to do much (2-4% typically) to keep idle and cruise at 14.7 :)
Good luck :D
Yes it does have closed loop, but its very poor and lots of people in the states run it open.
Just set AFR's in the rev range for slow to fast idle and got all to around 14.7, so fingers crossed!
Worst case I'll go and sit in the car whilst they do the test and alter the mpa on the fly!
Pre mot check results are in, needs handbrake cables....😂
Also splashed out on some BRD front and rear engine mounts and a new oil feed braided line for the turbo as it was kinked.
Car now has another 12 months mot.
As a treat I've bought her some Molnar rods! 😜
Now need to make a decision on pistons and whether to go 0.5mm over bore or fully sleeved.... 🤔
Congrats on the mot pass
May the build commence
Great thread and inspiring stuff.
Just in the stages of forging my motor at the moment for my MR... It's a 1.8t VAG unit with a K04-064 turbo though, so everyone just takes the piss. :))
Interested in the results of your motor build.
Hope it all goes well.
C.
Well less than two weeks after ordering them from the US, my molnar rods have arrived this morning.
Got a few bits to fit when I'm next working on her now, starting with new BRD engine bushes and new oil feed line as the old one had a slight kink in it.
Still undecided on pistons and whether to sleeve the block or not, anyone know power limits of 79.5mm pistons in a non sleeved block.
Gearbox isn't as issue, as I've promised myself a sequential instead of a new mtb this year 😂
A few bits done on the far last night and early this morning.
BRD engine mounts fitted, slightly more vibrations through the cockpit, but more than fine.
New oil feed braided hose fitted, exact replacement, juts to take out the kink in it.
Treated her to a wash now going out for a bit of mapping.
Also new rods are here woo hoo!
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Brilliant day out in the car today, didn't miss a beat.
New charge cooler set up is working very well, highest intake temp of 32 all day after a serious beating!
So nice to have dry roads again!
On the hunt for some pistons now and doing a bit of research on whether Sleeve or not to sleeve!
Well decision made on pistons, just picked some up on ebay wiesco 82mm 3k done on them for £210..that'll do donkey that'll doo!
Quote from: Gaz2405 on March 7, 2020, 20:49Well decision made on pistons, just picked some up on ebay wiesco 82mm 3k done on them for £210..that'll do donkey that'll doo!
Stock comp or 8:1?
Quote from: shnazzle on March 7, 2020, 20:52Quote from: Gaz2405 on March 7, 2020, 20:49Well decision made on pistons, just picked some up on ebay wiesco 82mm 3k done on them for £210..that'll do donkey that'll doo!
Stock comp or 8:1?
8.8:1
Great couple of hours out in the car today on dry roads, haven't had to touch the map for a while all seems spot on.
Pistons now here and cleaned up.
Suppose I'll have to pull my finger out and get an engine picked up soon.
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So the car has obviously not being getting much use during lock down!
Although the two days I've had to go into work, I've decided to take it instead of my company car as I have a two hour commute so was good to open her up on some quiet country roads.
I've picked up a block since my last installment too, so I'll start stripping that then send everything off to Future Motorsport for a short engine build.
Got bored yesterday so ended up playing around with a bumper cut.. And new exhaust exit. Not sure if I'ma fan yet.
Idea was that this would leave enough space for a rear diffuser.
IMG_20200410_174934_332.jpg
So after getting one of my spare engines pre lock down, after stripping it down it had a hair line crack on the bottom, it might have been fine but not worth risking it.
So I've got another one waiting for collection once all this is over.
I ordered one of the mishimoto copy radiators, after reading some reviews they seemed up to the job.
All seems very well made with neat welds, but the drivers side inlet is at a different angle to stock. I'd spotted it before ordering and was prepared to have to do a bit of hose juggling.
Went to fit it today, complete straight swap, apart from the final hose.
Try as I might couldn't get a decent fit on the hose, so I've ordered a few silicone bits and joiners to make it work, still plenty cheaper than mishimoto and perfectly adequate for what I need it for.
Hoses came this morning fron Ash, a 135°, a 90° and a joiner.
Got them on this evening after work, 10 minutes tops.
Quickly bled tha radiator back up, (I'd clamped the hoses and parked up hill on the drive)
So didn't need much bleeding.
Back in work tomorrow, so I'm goinf to take the car with me, 2 hour commute should give me chance to get the map dialed for cruising etc.
I'll try and get some pictures this weekend and upload, but definitely an alternative to mishimoto.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on January 18, 2020, 16:58Did some experimenting with losing the TTE back box today and using some 2.5" bends to create a cat back system to free up some flow.
It doesn't look pretty, but first test drive out it seems to do the job.
I'll probably test it on track before having a one piece system bent with no joints.
_20200118_165309.JPG
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First impressions of the size of of fake omp wheel was good as well, although it does create a blind spot at the businesses end of rev counter...
Where did you get the exhaust flange to mate upto the cat pipe ? :)
Quote from: Gaz2405 on January 18, 2020, 16:58First impressions of the size of of fake omp wheel was good as well, although it does create a blind spot at the businesses end of rev counter...
What a shame you are propogating such a dangerous and potentially life threatening counterfeit industry.
Quote from: thetyrant on April 22, 2020, 09:22Quote from: Gaz2405 on January 18, 2020, 16:58Did some experimenting with losing the TTE back box today and using some 2.5" bends to create a cat back system to free up some flow.
It doesn't look pretty, but first test drive out it seems to do the job.
I'll probably test it on track before having a one piece system bent with no joints.
_20200118_165309.JPG
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First impressions of the size of of fake omp wheel was good as well, although it does create a blind spot at the businesses end of rev counter...
Where did you get the exhaust flange to mate upto the cat pipe ? :)
A £20 ebay decat pipe for an astra vxr.
Quote from: Alex Knight on April 22, 2020, 09:30Quote from: Gaz2405 on January 18, 2020, 16:58First impressions of the size of of fake omp wheel was good as well, although it does create a blind spot at the businesses end of rev counter...
What a shame you are propogating such a dangerous and potentially life threatening counterfeit industry.
Pretty sure I've said in my thread afterwards that I've replaced it with a motamec one from rally nuts, and said I'd bought it just to check size and replace with real deal if required.
But thanks for getting on your high horse, much appreciated. 👍
Commute didn't go as planned, radiator wasn't bled up properly so temp gauge was off the chart within a mile or two. So limped back home and took the Ford Ranger instead.
Got the coolant fully bled, yesterday night and test run to the shops this evening proved everything working correctly.
I'd been having some problems with the powder coating on my roll cage for a while, it had started to crack and peel/shatter.
Bought it second hand so can't go back to the vendor.
So after tonight's run I whipped the roll cage out and started stripping the powder coating off.
Deciding on colour for new paint, thinking about going for a textured matt black to keep it stealth.
Couple of pictures at the start of stripping.
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Roll cage is now back in after a coat of whatever paint I had laying around in the garage luckily it was some high temp matte black style paint. So looks fitting with the rest of the car.
Bored in bed last night and browsing ebay I hit the button on a few items.
Frunk and bonnet gas strut kit.
Spare set of yellow stuff pds front and back.
Yaris front wishbones.
Piece of T45 tube to make a harness bar that mounts to the original seat belt mounts, undecided still might make it part of the cage.
I think I may have a misfire on one cylinder, I've got a spare set of coils so I'll switch them out at some point tonight see if it helps.
Noticed while under the car the other day that one of the M6 bolts that holds the cross brace on had had the top of it knocked off, luckily I could get to it quite easy to replace.
I've had some slight water ingress, since deleting the softop, its coming in from the step in the seal on the B pillar.
When its dry I'll just get some clear silicone in there for peice of mind.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on April 30, 2020, 09:17Roll cage is now back in after a coat of whatever paint I had laying around in the garage luckily it was some high temp matte black style paint. So looks fitting with the rest of the car.
Bored in bed last night and browsing ebay I hit the button on a few items.
Frunk and bonnet gas strut kit.
Spare set of yellow stuff pds front and back.
Yaris front wishbones.
Piece of T45 tube to make a harness bar that mounts to the original seat belt mounts, undecided still might make it part of the cage.
I think I may have a misfire on one cylinder, I've got a spare set of coils so I'll switch them out at some point tonight see if it helps.
Noticed while under the car the other day that one of the M6 bolts that holds the cross brace on had had the top of it knocked off, luckily I could get to it quite easy to replace.
I've had some slight water ingress, since deleting the softop, its coming in from the step in the seal on the B pillar.
When its dry I'll just get some clear silicone in there for peice of mind.
Can you tell me what wishbones you ordered please what year Yaris as my build needs a set to thanks
Bought these ones.... But haven't fitted then yet. A
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233274751503
Summer wheels swapped on today, with R888r rubber.
Hopefully booking onto Blyton end of the month as they say they're opening.
There's a few of us booking on, a track prepped 911, £80k mk2 Escort, track prepped M3 and a 172 an ecleptic line up!
Quick little job today.
Fitted hydraulic lifters/rams to the boot and bonnet.
Has to roll the rear arches a little more today as the R888r's are a little meatier than the ns2r's.
Note I'm also running spacers front and rear for a slightly wider track. (a marmite thing I know!)
I've pressed the button of a couple of different sets of fender flares to have a play about with.
Also got my side scoops done in satin black today, still on the look out for a ducktail to go with them.
Do dome may have seen the Facebook group that I've had a play around with some arch extensions.
I don't think I'm going to go ahead with them.
I've asked Dick to let me know when he gets some sable rear quarters in and I'll swap out my spacers and put standard non rolled arches back in.
I've also added a small red turbo badge to the rear grille to act as bait/trolling on track.
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Fitted my eBay bargain tonight :)
IMG_20200605_223402_055.jpg
Congratulations!!!!
Would look better on mine though ;-)
Managed to get an hour on the car this morning.
The shut lines weren't quite perfect on the carbon bonnet, so after some elongated holes in the bumper mounts and apply gently pressure to form the bonnet down near the headlights. We were sorted a much better fit.
This afternoon I sat with the laptop in the kitchen playing with one of my maps offline.
I was getting close to the load limit of the current map to so needed to rescale it.
Map rescaled, I headed out in the car I was going to drive to my mapping road load up the new map and see how it went.
The car however had other plans, I wasn't getting boost, max I was getting was 5psi.
'i must have a boost leak I thought'
Back home and all chargecooler pipes off and refitted.
Back out again, no boost.... Hmmm.
Took the air feed pipe off, and churbo is still spinning freely.....
Then I spotted it, somehow (go knows how) the actuator had slackened off.
Tightened up and out we go!
Wow wow, wow, too much boost 15psi from nearly the get go.
I slackened it off half a turn, and it was perfect at 12.5psi.
So two hours later I finally get out in the car, load my new rescaled map a few timing tweaks.
Logged a 4-5 runs all the way to third and AFR's are much more stable than before.
Spent some time on the drive back tweaking the cruising map and pottering around town fuelling.
A few updated photo's from last night's drive.
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Car is performing well at the moment and I'm pretty happy with it.
Although always wanting more!
Blyton booked for 12th July.
Started collecting parts for the fuel system for when the engine is built now.
Sticking to my keeping it cheap and nasty gone for the stuff from ebay!!
After going through pages of reviews of Fpr regs and pumps, I've plumbed for a £35 jobby along with a kemso 340lph fuel pump.
Along with modifying my spare fuel rail to make a return system.
Potentially building two engines up, one sleeved with 82.5mm pistons and rods and one with 79.5mm with just pistons and rods done.
Anyone know the limits to an un sleeved block, with rods and pistons done?
Quote from: Gaz2405 on June 29, 2020, 21:00Anyone know the limits to an un sleeved block, with rods and pistons done?
Ive had a search on this but not been able to find the info so guessing once rods are done the rest holds together pretty well despite being open deck, i think a lot of time its belt and braces prevention when sleeving etc so people building for big numbers just do it and dont find the limit of stock block, its certainly not common that ive seen on net.
The following thread i was hoping would yeild a result but sounds like rod/crank/oiling issue where his cause of failure at just over 300 usa hp on totally stock internals with turbo - https://www.spyderchat.com/threads/report-1zz-block-limits.8229/
Ah bollocks, out in the car tonight getting to grips with R888r's in the wet.
Everything ok, apart from I've got a slightly sticky NSR caliper, with Blyton booked for Sunday, it might be a rush job on Saturday a quick strip and rebuild. Hopefully its just the slider that's become stuck after sitting ont h drive with the hand brake on.
Ahhhh..... Sliders and sliding freely.
Piston boweveethas had it, won't wind back in.
On the hunt for two new rear calipers now ready for the weekend!
Here you go... Brakeparts (https://www.brakeparts.co.uk/shop/Toyota/MR2/00-/MR2%20Sports%20Zzw30%201.8%20Roadster/Rear%20-%20Brake%20Calipers%20and%20Wheel%20Cylinders)
Edit....see they only have RH for 6speed cars ins stock but i dont know if there is any difference on 5speed calipers?
Cheers, dropped a message to Paul at TCB, but will give him and Mr2ben a call in the morning.
Failing that, I'll pop into a local breakers just for the weekend.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on July 6, 2020, 20:35Ahhhh..... Sliders and sliding freely.
Piston boweveethas had it, won't wind back in.
On the hunt for two new rear calipers now ready for the weekend!
@Ardent has a couple for sale:
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?msg=827934
@Gaz2405 If you are after calipers for a 5 speed.
Then the ones I have are very likely to be 5 speeds as came off a 2001 car.
If that helps.
Cheers guys, looks like Mr2Ben can sort me out thinks he's got two on a shelf.
Mine would be cheaper and you get some discs as we.;)
Two brand new rear calipers turned up today from Mr2 Ben, top service delivered in less than 24 hours.
Already had some yellow stuff pads to go in them.
So Saturday should be a nice chilled day swapping them over ready for Sunday.
Phew! Panic over!
Home from work at 5:45 calipers swapped, new pads in.
Bleed tomorrow.
Boom.
Got bored watching re-runs of location location location with the Mrs.
Brakes now bled up 😂.
Just back from Blyton, car performed brilliantly.
Only thing it needed was fuel and a driver with more talent 😂
Loads of track time 136 miles worth and beatngtthe crap out of it 😂
It's definitely running faster than last time, lapping 9 seconds quicker and pushing the E46 M3's out of the way.
Some quick stuff there today, couple of Atoms a supercharged E46 M3.
Got some on board footage that I'll try and get up later.
Did get a misfire on the way home, quick check and the cam case breather that I have to atmosphere has covered the nearest injector connector in oil so that's probably the cause.
Not to worry, I'll get it rerouted to the catch can.
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Nice one glad it went well, im itching to get back out on track with mine :D
For those interested a few laps from one of the afternoon sessions.
Investigating my exhaust blow/misfire tonight.
Oil catch tank modified to accept another feed.
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Then proceeded to clean the injector connectors, checked the plugs and coils all fine.
Started it up, went for a run still blowing under load.
Back home, staring into engine bay with the engine running scratching my head like a neanderthal.... 😂
Put my hand around the manifold, could feel exhaust around the turbo/manifold.
Cut all the heat wrap off.
Manifold has a slight crack, looks like it's due to getting super heated up!!
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It's also blwon through the steel gasket between the manifold and the T3-T25 adaptor. Made a start on getting the world's most annoying bolts out!
Turbo is now free, so manifold can come off and be welded and a new gasket and studs can got in on the way back in.
Minor set back, but not bad considerinf it had a full day 9-5pm getting hammered around the track for 130+ miles!
Whoa hang on, isn't yours a turbokits cast manifold? I'd considered them to be rather bullet proof!
There is definitely a crack, but I do need to investigate further as to how bad it is, its not on a casting mark or anything or a weld, but I'll wait until tomorrow whenits cooled down and on the bench to check it.
Run a bit richer on track? Maybe on a second map for track. Cool those EGTs down
Quote from: shnazzle on July 13, 2020, 21:44Run a bit richer on track? Maybe on a second map for track. Cool those EGTs down
Im already on the rich side for safety, I think I won't heat wrap it next time and make some heat shields instead.
Had the manifold off tonight.
Definitely a small crack but not sure how deep.
Also really poor port matching on the manifold, so I'll ease those in whilst it's on the bench.
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So all in all not too bad, a £5 gasket.
Nasty!, crack could well be caused by the heatwrap so i think your idea of not wrapping and making a heatshield is a good one and what i was going to do with mine before i sold it.
You will need a good welder to keep that crack sealed and often once cast manifolds crack its time to throw away but worth a try as might work out.
Yeah I'm of the thinking its the heat wrap that's caused it, or at least brought it on quicker.
I know what I should do with the weld, but I'm a bodge master so will probably bodge it myself!
I'm going to explore it with a die grinder tomorrow night and see how deep it is. fingers crossed!
Quote from: Gaz2405 on July 14, 2020, 21:17Yeah I'm of the thinking its the heat wrap that's caused it, or at least brought it on quicker.
I know what I should do with the weld, but I'm a bodge master so will probably bodge it myself!
I'm going to explore it with a die grinder tomorrow night and see how deep it is. fingers crossed!
Do you know what material the manifold is made from ? is it magnetic ? could be cast stainless or cast iron but either way you will be very lucky to bodge fix cracked manifold and probably just make it worse, i would recommend leaving it and trying to find a local cast welding specialist to take a look, lots of places wont touch cast as its so tricky to do right needing to preheat and things and even then it might not last, especially a turbo manifold which could be 900c+ in use so has a lot to deal with, good luck though :D
Quote from: thetyrant on July 14, 2020, 22:10Quote from: Gaz2405 on July 14, 2020, 21:17Yeah I'm of the thinking its the heat wrap that's caused it, or at least brought it on quicker.
I know what I should do with the weld, but I'm a bodge master so will probably bodge it myself!
I'm going to explore it with a die grinder tomorrow night and see how deep it is. fingers crossed!
Do you know what material the manifold is made from ? is it magnetic ? could be cast stainless or cast iron but either way you will be very lucky to bodge fix cracked manifold and probably just make it worse, i would recommend leaving it and trying to find a local cast welding specialist to take a look, lots of places wont touch cast as its so tricky to do right needing to preheat and things and even then it might not last, especially a turbo manifold which could be 900c+ in use so has a lot to deal with, good luck though :D
Oddly I wouldn't consider wrapping turbo manifold, despite the fact that I would wrap an n/a manifold.
Turbo manifolds just get so flaming hot
Some picture spam... 😂
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Blyton booked again for 1st August!
Manifold welded up and checked for other cracks, seems fine..... Meh!
Manifold ported out to match the exhaust ports better.
Waiting on a gasket which should be here tomorrow.
Tried something a little different today, watch below to hear a Yorkshire Man rambling about Mr2s!
Took the car to work today, so much better than my executive milk float! 😜
Taking it in again tomorrow, but of a longer run home. Should be enough runs out to recheck all the manifold bolts as they should have heat cycled enough times to work loose if ever they were.
Going to check the front pads this weekend, as they look touch and go as to whether I'll get another full track day out of them, but being tight I might just take a spare set with me and change them at lunch 😂
Pads checked this weekend, got just under half left so that's enough for me!
I'll be taking the spare set anyway at the weekend.
I've also started looking at the big wangs of the carbon variety but still unsure..
Would love to do some back to back testing with one to see what the difference is like.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on July 26, 2020, 22:20Pads checked this weekend, got just under half left so that's enough for me!
I'll be taking the spare set anyway at the weekend.
I've also started looking at the big wangs of the carbon variety but still unsure..
Would love to do some back to back testing with one to see what the difference is like.
I believe there was, and hopefully still is, a member on here who is in the brake pad business, maybe he can give some guidance on this. I can't recall who that member was/ is, perhaps someone on here will and post an @brakepadman post to get his attention.
Bottled it on the brake pad front and fitted some new blue stuff pads tonight ready for tomorrow. 😂
Think I'll take the hard top off tomorrow for a few laps if the weather is this good.
Great day at Blyton again today, ma aged to get into the high 1.12's and pretty regularly lapping 1.13's consistently.
Car ran like a dream until around midday.
Done pipe was coming loose, nipped it up and again and seemed to do the job.
Then blew through my new steel gasket again whwre the turbo meets the manifold. Tightened it up again and just loved with the blowing, meant I was only at 10 psi as it struggled to build boost and was running 10.5 AFR's.
Did take my lap top but couldn't be bothered altering the map just for the afternoon, so let it run rich.
It was still within a second of my best times so not the end of the world.
Back home now and manifold off and pit back together with no gasket to see if its any better.
Some of the issues I think comes from running an adaptor from T3 to T25, so I'm just about to press the button on a new churbo, in T3 form which should suit my forged build better in the future. I'm not too bothered about extra spool time at the moment as when you're on track you're constsniin the right rpm range anyway.
A few laps from mid morning, pictures to follow.
OK sooooo started car up this morning... Still blowing from around the turbo.
Turns out the turbo side of the adaptor plate has come loose slightly.
So manifold off again, sandwich plate off to reveal another blown gasket.
So now all back together again with no gaskets, checked all surfaces as best I could with a straight edge and torch and all seemed flat with no warps.
One of the studs around the back of the turbo is an absolute PIA to get to, had to cut a 12mm spanner down to get in there.
You can actually hear towards the end of the video, the exhaust starting to blow.
Probably doesn't help that I stay out on track for 15 minutes plus at a time 😂
Anyway all back together now, just been out for a test drive now getting my 12.5psi again woo hoo.
With no blows, this is using no gaskets too with only a tiny smear of 1000c exhaust paste.
What power does this run to get 1:12's at Blyton?
Quote from: JB21 on August 3, 2020, 08:21What power does this run to get 1:12's at Blyton?
It was running 233 on a really poor map, and only 10psi.
Now runs 12.5psi, creeping to 14 on track.
So would suspect closer to 280-300ish.
It consistently passes M3's, 135i's etc as well as other track sorted stuff.
Only broke into 12's twice, but 13's was pretty regular.
Struggling for grip now on higher speed corners, looking at aero or slicks next.
You're on slicks aren't you, how do you find them?
Quote from: Gaz2405 on August 3, 2020, 08:38Quote from: JB21 on August 3, 2020, 08:21What power does this run to get 1:12's at Blyton?
It was running 233 on a really poor map, and only 10psi.
Now runs 12.5psi, creeping to 14 on track.
So would suspect closer to 280-300ish.
It consistently passes M3's, 135i's etc as well as other track sorted stuff.
Only broke into 12's twice, but 13's was pretty regular.
Struggling for grip now on higher speed corners, looking at aero or slicks next.
You're on slicks aren't you, how do you find them?
Nice figures, thought 1:12's was FAST! I managed a 1:14 in the 2ZZ running NS2R 180 tyres, yellowstuff pads with the ARB's and coilovers set up full soft.
Should be able to get in the 12's maybe 11's myself now with slicks, XP8 pads and stiff set-up with more aggressive geo.
Only managed around 8 laps at Oulton on the slicks but the difference compared to my AR1's was night and day, I'd say at least 2s a lap in it once I've found there limit of grip.
Little comparison video here:
Quote from: JB21 on August 3, 2020, 08:51Quote from: Gaz2405 on August 3, 2020, 08:38Quote from: JB21 on August 3, 2020, 08:21What power does this run to get 1:12's at Blyton?
It was running 233 on a really poor map, and only 10psi.
Now runs 12.5psi, creeping to 14 on track.
So would suspect closer to 280-300ish.
It consistently passes M3's, 135i's etc as well as other track sorted stuff.
Only broke into 12's twice, but 13's was pretty regular.
Struggling for grip now on higher speed corners, looking at aero or slicks next.
You're on slicks aren't you, how do you find them?
Nice figures, thought 1:12's was FAST! I managed a 1:14 in the 2ZZ running NS2R 180 tyres, yellowstuff pads with the ARB's and coilovers set up full soft.
Should be able to get in the 12's maybe 11's myself now with slicks, XP8 pads and stiff set-up with more aggressive geo.
Only managed around 8 laps at Oulton on the slicks but the difference compared to my AR1's was night and day, I'd say at least 2s a lap in it once I've found there limit of grip.
Little comparison video here:
I'm fully braced underneath and run my coilovers more or less fully solid.
How much did you pay for slicks?
R888r's have more or less gone on the rear now 280 miles of track driving. Thinking of trying AR1's next.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on August 3, 2020, 08:54Quote from: JB21 on August 3, 2020, 08:51Quote from: Gaz2405 on August 3, 2020, 08:38Quote from: JB21 on August 3, 2020, 08:21What power does this run to get 1:12's at Blyton?
It was running 233 on a really poor map, and only 10psi.
Now runs 12.5psi, creeping to 14 on track.
So would suspect closer to 280-300ish.
It consistently passes M3's, 135i's etc as well as other track sorted stuff.
Only broke into 12's twice, but 13's was pretty regular.
Struggling for grip now on higher speed corners, looking at aero or slicks next.
You're on slicks aren't you, how do you find them?
Nice figures, thought 1:12's was FAST! I managed a 1:14 in the 2ZZ running NS2R 180 tyres, yellowstuff pads with the ARB's and coilovers set up full soft.
Should be able to get in the 12's maybe 11's myself now with slicks, XP8 pads and stiff set-up with more aggressive geo.
Only managed around 8 laps at Oulton on the slicks but the difference compared to my AR1's was night and day, I'd say at least 2s a lap in it once I've found there limit of grip.
Little comparison video here:
I'm fully braced underneath and run my coilovers more or less fully solid.
How much did you pay for slicks?
R888r's have more or less gone on the rear now 280 miles of track driving. Thinking of trying AR1's next.
Paid £150 for all 4. Fronts are MRF ZTD1 (hard) 190/580/15, rears Hankook Ventus F200 (medium) 200/580/15.
AR1's are very good though and are a step up over R888R's.Lasted ages on mine as well. 6 track days and around 3k road miles, rears are just above the wear indicators, front have around 3mm left on them.
Were did you manage to find yours, I'm looking but struggling..
Quote from: Gaz2405 on August 3, 2020, 13:29Were did you manage to find yours, I'm looking but struggling..
Ebay is your best bet. Just type 15" slicks or whatever size your running.
Spam alert..... 😂
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A little bit of fettling this weekend.
Side light bulb changed out as one had gone, luckily got hands like a child 😂
Also got my scoops fitted, matte black to go with the cage and ducktail.
Need to arrange to get my front spats collected and door bushings.
Next up I'll get my new yaris wishbones fitted.
Looking at a few sets of Team Dynamics Pro 1.2's in 15" to be used as track day wheels, giving me the ability to run slicks if required/wanted.
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A few updated pictures below, car is now running well and I really like the look of the matte black scoops and ducktail.
Order has now been placed for my darton sleeves and machining to match my 82mm pistons. So car will be coming off the road over winter for some fuelling upgrades to support more boost and hopefully be on the way to 400hp.
In other news managed to break a sub 4 seconds 0-60, with a very hard launch on some hot R888rs.
Its only as accurate as the stuff you're timing it on, but feck it. I'm taking it. 😂
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So in my quest for more grip and down force I've pressed the button on a generic GT wing, not sure how I'll mount it yet, I'll wait until it gets here.
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I've also been playing around at the front with some ducting through the radiator and front bumper which will look like it will require an additional duct/vent to be cut into the bonnet.
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In the middle of the car I'm all measured up for a fault under tray, which will start from just behind the front subframe and go back to just past the petrol tank.
At the rear I'm looking to use a lotus elise s2 extended rear diffuser which will go back to another flat piece, and connect to the middle section.
To run this I've ordered a few more bits to jiggle the exhaust around and move it up and remove the cat.
I'm also waiting to collect some front spats which once on I'll make an aluminium front splitter which will connect up with the middle section.
Other than that had an hour or so drive out in the car this afternoon, a little damp to really enjoy it, but fun never the less and nice to stretchyots legs.
Have found AR1s to be a good tyre, excellent from cold, surprisingly good in the wet, but quite soft so don't last that long.
Where did you find the other 3+ seconds at Blyton over the laps in the video?
Yeah I've been after a set of AR1's.
Middle of the day track cleared out a bit.
Usually in the 1.14-15's according to GPS.
Go pro wide angle doesn't do it justice how close the cars in front are, need to have a play about with the settings, but it's an old hero 3, so probably out of its depth a bit.
Looking at booking on again soon if you anyone else fancies it.
I have a Hero 3 too so I know what you mean!
Keen for some track action too but want to get my car serviced and tweaked first. Be good to share the track with some more '2s!
Gary, have a look at this before you cut more bonnet holes - it's quite a good vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLL-vm2fPkw
Quote from: tets on August 24, 2020, 08:34Gary, have a look at this before you cut more bonnet holes - it's quite a good vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLL-vm2fPkw
Great watch, will hang fire on an extra vent and the diffuser for the time being.
Also managed to snag some 15x7 Team Dynamics Pro 1.2's with some R888r's on that I'll use for the time being then switch to slicks with them.
Offset is 25 so will be tight, but I'm running a 20mm spacer on the back at the moment, with a heavily rolled arch and a 15mm spacer at the front.
So they might have to come out when running these.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on August 28, 2020, 19:05Also managed to snag some 15x7 Team Dynamics Pro 1.2's with some R888r's on that I'll use for the time being then switch to slicks with them.
Offset is 25 so will be tight, but I'm running a 20mm spacer on the back at the moment, with a heavily rolled arch and a 15mm spacer at the front.
So they might have to come out when running these.
When you asked originally I was going to offer my fronts (15x7 et35) at a good price. That way you'd save a lot on getting a full set and I'd have a bit of cash towards getting fronts in et45 like I intended.
But I bought some 10mm spacers for the rear so when I do the brakes soon I'll be solving that issue
Quote from: Gaz2405 on August 28, 2020, 19:02Quote from: tets on August 24, 2020, 08:34Gary, have a look at this before you cut more bonnet holes - it's quite a good vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLL-vm2fPkw
Great watch, will hang fire on an extra vent and the diffuser for the time being.
It's good in't it - looking forward to the next one concentrating on the rear
Quote from: tets on August 29, 2020, 08:53Quote from: Gaz2405 on August 28, 2020, 19:02Quote from: tets on August 24, 2020, 08:34Gary, have a look at this before you cut more bonnet holes - it's quite a good vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLL-vm2fPkw
Great watch, will hang fire on an extra vent and the diffuser for the time being.
It's out already, watched them both 😂
It's good in't it - looking forward to the next one concentrating on the rear
Quote from: Gaz2405 on August 29, 2020, 09:15Quote from: tets on August 29, 2020, 08:53Quote from: Gaz2405 on August 28, 2020, 19:02Quote from: tets on August 24, 2020, 08:34Gary, have a look at this before you cut more bonnet holes - it's quite a good vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLL-vm2fPkw
Great watch, will hang fire on an extra vent and the diffuser for the time being.
It's out already, watched them both 😂
It's good in't it - looking forward to the next one concentrating on the rear
Ah i'd not seen that - i'll move on from Leeds transfer news and give it a watch!!
Before the rain came today, got my front spats fitted from
@Topdownman then had a go at making a template for a front splitter, goes all the way underneath to the front brace.
I know it should be further out and more pronounced to get the most benefit, but wanted a compromise on looks and performance.
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Also pressed the button on an Bofi racing tyre rack to try and make it work.
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Should make taking spare tyres easier and with one less car.
Looking good!
Decided last minute at 6pm I'd change the front wishbones..... Error.
All bolts out no problem, until the lower ball joint.... F'sake!
Got a little late to be using a grinder, but it's coming out tomorrow to nip the top nut off!
mad that as those were the easiest of them all to get off on mine!!
Well Mr grinder had to come out quite a bit this morning!
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Drivers side must have had an incident with a curb at some point as the bolt was bent, so needed cutting out too!
Have the front subframe a bit of a wire brushing and a coat of underseal too whilst I was at it.
Genuinely the most ball ache of a job I've had to do with the car.
Including the actual turbo conversion and swapping the clutch out on the driveway!
Wow... sorry to see such a mess and that it caused you so much hassle! I guess you have spares ready to go on?
Quote from: AdamR28 on August 31, 2020, 14:14Wow... sorry to see such a mess and that it caused you so much hassle! I guess you have spares ready to go on?
Yeah had a new pair of wishbones waiting to go on, and a big box of spare nut and bolts of all sizes.
Luckily I'd just stocked up on 1mm cutting discs! 😜
All back together and out for a shake down.
Spats looking good and door bushes make a real difference.
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Car does feel like it's pulling to the left though. Got home quick check, yeah that'll be why!
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DIY alignment happening right now 😂
Diy alignment done, tiny bit of toe in by eye I reckon 😂
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Tie rod end needed plenty of heat to crack the nut, all good now though.
A decent Bank Holidays graft, even saw another Roadster whilst out on my drive, just coming down Holm Moss, silver with black hard top.
Is it me or is your car a bit narrower than most?
Quote from: Gaz2405 on August 31, 2020, 18:15tiny bit of toe in by eye I reckon
Looks close to 2 degrees (7mm across the wheel diameter is one degree on a 15" wheel), unless you have a very good relationship with a tyre company I'd get that sorted soonish :D
That tyre rack would solve so many issues for me on track. I'm always relying on my mates to bring them.
Looks forward to seeing how you get on 👍
Quote from: AdamR28 on August 31, 2020, 18:21Quote from: Gaz2405 on August 31, 2020, 18:15tiny bit of toe in by eye I reckon
Looks close to 2 degrees (7mm across the wheel diameter is one degree on a 15" wheel), unless you have a very good relationship with a tyre company I'd get that sorted soonish :D
It's sods law when you're rushing to correct something and over correct it.
I'll see how it drives like it is, fronts are out lasting rears on trackby about 50% at the moment.
Quote from: JB21 on August 31, 2020, 18:40That tyre rack would solve so many issues for me on track. I'm always relying on my mates to bring them.
Looks forward to seeing how you get on 👍
Yeah me too, or means taking two cars.
I'd seen the one of their Bofi racing YouTube, at first I was going to try and modify a luggage rack.
But should be easier making this fit.
Door bushings are amazing.
Zero toe now adjusted!
Having a few issues with my engine build at the moment.
So far I've got molnar rods and 82mm pistons.
Plan was to have the block sleeved and bored to accept in the UK. However, it turns out this would now involve sending the block off to darton in the US to do the machining.
So I'm now looking at ditching my plans to sleeve it, get rid of the 82mm pistons and go for 79.5mm pistons with or without a cylinder support system.
Bummer on the sleeving, however what about keeping stock pistons (or 0.5mm oversize if it needs boring) and just using your uprated rods on them ? from what ive seen the stock piston isnt the weak part its the rods but guess it depends how much power your planning ?
Maybe I don't have enough faith in the block but frankly I think if you're looking at the amount of boost for which 8.8 and 82mm is an absolute must, you're far in excess of the efficient flow capacity of the head anyway,without heavy mods to that.
So yeah, 79.5mm and stronger rods? Maybe CSS.
Quote from: thetyrant on September 4, 2020, 08:20Bummer on the sleeving, however what about keeping stock pistons (or 0.5mm oversize if it needs boring) and just using your uprated rods on them ? from what ive seen the stock piston isnt the weak part its the rods but guess it depends how much power your planning ?
Yeah pretty gutted about sleeving, still trying to find someone else to do it.
Worst case it's £700 or so on some new pistons, and go to 79.5mm with no block mods.
Only looking for around 400bhp and from what I can see there's been no block failures at that power only transmission failures.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on September 1, 2020, 19:33Zero toe now adjusted!
Having a few issues with my engine build at the moment.
So far I've got molnar rods and 82mm pistons.
Plan was to have the block sleeved and bored to accept in the UK. However, it turns out this would now involve sending the block off to darton in the US to do the machining.
So I'm now looking at ditching my plans to sleeve it, get rid of the 82mm pistons and go for 79.5mm pistons with or without a cylinder support system.
Maybe this Company could help, they are in UK / N Ireland, much closer than the US
Powermax Engineering Ltd
10 Lismoney Road,
Magherafelt,
BT45 7YQ
Phone: 02886762073
Email: enquiries@powermaxengineering.com
https://www.powermaxengineering.com/
Soooooo..... My build has just taken a sideways step.
Just bought a forged and sleeved 2zz engine, needs high comp pistons swapping out for 8:8.1's.
But selling my rods and pistons, plus the forged 12:1's in the 2zz should way more than recover the cost.
2zz turbo here we come!!
What was it
@shnazzle was saying about members chasing power. Guilty as charged. 😂
Good luck to you.
Plenty of power.
Now where did all my torque go?
Quote from: 1979scotte on September 9, 2020, 19:43Good luck to you.
Plenty of power.
Now where did all my torque go?
Haha all the torque went in trying to save the gearbox.
If it goes anything like the turbo'd 2zz elise did last time I was at Blyton I'll be a happy bunny!
It will go well I am sure.
So back from my 6 hour round trip to pick up the forged and sleeved 2zz block.
It was a bit of a gamble as the engine was in bits and couldn't hear it running or anything.
Back home, head inspected there was some small witness marks from where it had a spark plug barb come off.
This was also evident on the piston on the same cylinder, no doubt would run again but there coming out anyway.
Now onto the block cranks over smoothly, a check of the bores all within factory specs and all within 0.01mm of each other.
So the main thing, I wanted the block for is OK! Few!
Valves have all been cleaned up, looked like it had ran mega lean on two cylinders as the exhaust valves where heavily chalked up. All ground away with the dremel on a small wire wheel.
Leak test done on valves, all good after 2 hours.
Next step, engine stand and crank and rods out to check for stretch and tolerance.
Then old pistons up for sale and new lower ratio ones to go in.
Phew sounds like you got lucky there that block is ok, ive come to conclusion that 99% of engine stuff thats for sale these days has issues!
Oh and what you doing with those rods you had for 1zz ? i might need some as DPD looks to of lost the pistons and rods i sent for modification :(
Rods and pistons will be coming up for sale as soon as I've got some pictures sorted.
Engine also came with stage 2 cams which I will probably end up putting on some lotus forums to move on.
Luckily my turbo manifold is 1zz and 2zz compatible.
I'll get it running using the 1zz pfc then have a trip down to RRR engineering for an ecu master black for a hi and lo boost setting.
I'll be looking for 400hp pkusnon hi boost, I've got an auris 2.2d gearbox winging it's way over too to see hwo it mounts up.
New oil squirters order, I plan to space them out after reading a few forums on standard sqyiterwvs wiseco pistons!
Some more research on the engine I bought, original owner suspected a spun bearing.
So I'll take the cr ak out and check tolerance to double check.
Hmmmm
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Crank actually turned smoothly by hand....
Cylinder 3 and 4 both had scored skirts on one side, which has ever so slightly scored the Bores low down.
Luckily its sleeved so nothing a re-bore and hone can't sort. And luckily I hadn't ordered standard size pistons!
Thats nasty hope you didnt pay much for it! what were the cams and caps like ?
Quote from: thetyrant on September 19, 2020, 10:43Thats nasty hope you didnt pay much for it! what were the cams and caps like ?
Cams and caps are fine, rods still look like new.
Crank is also fine.
Stipped down the oil pump and also looks like new.
I paid less that what it was going to cost me to sleeve my 1zz, took a gamble and worst case it was just the block that would be good.
So paid off, luckily!
Some more parts ordered.
To ensure the block has pistons for when it goes off to the machine shop for the light scoring taking out.
I've aired on the side of caution and gone with 82.5mm wiseco pistons from MWR.
These will give me the ability to go 0.5mm overbore, should my dial bore gauge and micrometer not be as accuroas the shops.
Knowing my luck I'd have bought std 82mm and it would have needed a rebore!
So thought for another $100 and a couple of £100 for a rebore it was worth it to play it safe.
Just been notified that my pistons are in the country.
Machine shop booked for two weeks time.
Engine spec so far is looking like:
Darton Sleeved 2zz Block bored to 82.5mm
MWR Rods
Wiseco 8.8:1 82.5mm pistons
MWR valves
MWR Valve Springs
Seven Motor Sport Stage 2 Cams
Circuitworx Oil Pump
ARP fasteners head and block.
My turbo manifold can be used on a 1zz or 2zz.
Unsure of turbo to use, will most likely stick with my TD04 but with a 19t wheel to start.
Then will look into Holset (several close friends work in the R&D department there) possible a hx35.
Will have a 3" exhaust.
630cc injectors still, but will RRFPR with a return.
ECU will go to ECU Master EMU Black.
Coming along nicely by the sounds of it :)
Let me know when your selling pfc I might give it a try as not one I've tinkered with before.
Always fancied a borg Warner efr myself know nothing about holset turbos.
Good news that its all coming together
Quote from: thetyrant on September 24, 2020, 19:45Coming along nicely by the sounds of it :)
Let me know when your selling pfc I might give it a try as not one I've tinkered with before.
Will do! And yes finally!
Quote from: 1979scotte on September 24, 2020, 19:47Always fancied a borg Warner efr myself know nothing about holset turbos.
Good news that its all coming together
Borgs do seem to be well regarded.
Holsets and Cummins both made in Huddersfield ;) Although most are for great big industrial diesel applications!
Quote from: Gaz2405 on September 24, 2020, 20:06Quote from: 1979scotte on September 24, 2020, 19:47Always fancied a borg Warner efr myself know nothing about holset turbos.
Good news that its all coming together
Borgs do seem to be well regarded.
Holsets and Cummins both made in Huddersfield ;) Although most are for great big industrial diesel applications!
Educating
I was 'allowed'some time on the car this afternoon.....
So set about having a trial fit of my Bofi Racing tyre rack.
This should enable those who track their twos to take spare wheels and tyres with them.
https://bofiracing.co.uk/skidnation-tyre-rack-mazda-mx-engineinwrongplace -na/ (https://bofiracing.co.uk/skidnation-tyre-rack-mazda-mx-engineinwrongplace%20-na/)
All in all bolted up pretty straight away.
One hole to elongate and another new hole between the two already there.
The bars that come with it are too short but nothing a bit of box section from work can't fix.
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Some video mumblings about my build.
Block, crank, rods and pistons dropped off at the machine shop this morning.
Block in for an overbore for the 82.5mm pistons.
Crank in for a a tolerance check and polish.
Rods in for tolerance check.
Potentially bad news back from the machine shops, sleeves maybe loose.
I'm popping in next week to look at solutions, they're up for custom sleeves by the sounds of it.
Oh no thats a bugger!
Sooooo been to the machine shop to pick up my block and see what the damage is.
They managed to bore out to 82.5mm ok, but whilst honing the machinist noticed there was some movement in one of the sleeves.
Upon closer inspection we found the block had cracked between cylinder 3-4.
Not good! So block is scrap!
Good news is crank is fine as are rods.
So back home, I managed to tap the other sleeves out (which to me means they either weren't fitted to tolerance to start with or the lack of material between cylinders can cause this cracking. (I've looked online and can't find any evidence.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50437755751_5a537f9041_b.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50437754256_f15792f731_b.jpg)
So all in all not ideal!
Now undecided as to which avenue to go down.
1. Look for another block, machine shop are happy to install westwood cylinder liners and a dowel block style guard as they do on their evo engines which make 1000hp plus.
Pro's: It can be a scrap high mileage block, as I've got a built head. Should give 400hp plus comfortably, but then get into transmission issues.
Con's: Transmission issues and finding another block.
2. Find a another 2zz block and go standard bore (which would mean new pistons)
Pros: Still uses built head, stock crank and forged rods.
Cons: Would mean new pistons and difficulty finding a low mileage block with a good MMC coating still.
3. Get them to sleeve by 1zz block and use my 82mm pistons I still have, (this would mean new rods, as I've just sold my others!)
Pros: I have 3 block to choose from! I can still overbore to 82mm with westwood cylinder liners. All supporting mods already done.
Cons: End power figure may be lower than the 2zz due to head restrictions. Transmission issues.
4.Just throw caution to the wind and K24 Turbo as more and more mounting kits are popping up now.
Pros: Plenty of tuning options, good unbuilt power.
Cons: Completely starting over again, looking at a good £4-5k just to get up and running minimum.
I think I need to have a think and see what's out there. It's no doubt going to be a long crappy winter.
Or you could stop chasing big power and settle on something in the mid to high 200s.
No need for built engines or upgrade transmissions.
Just a decent tune.
Just saying mate.
Feel your pain.
Quote from: 1979scotte on October 8, 2020, 19:11Or you could stop chasing big power and settle on something in the mid to high 200s.
No need for built engines or upgrade transmissions.
Just a decent tune.
Just saying mate.
Feel your pain.
That would be all too easy though Scotte wouldn't it?! I do still keep my eye out for 2GR's though!
Just measured the bores on two off my 1zz blocks, one has had a recent rebuild and is at 79.5mm other is standard bore.
So may look into a block guard/CSS or run without one with just rods and pistons.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on October 8, 2020, 19:30Quote from: 1979scotte on October 8, 2020, 19:11Or you could stop chasing big power and settle on something in the mid to high 200s.
No need for built engines or upgrade transmissions.
Just a decent tune.
Just saying mate.
Feel your pain.
That would be all too easy though Scotte wouldn't it?! I do still keep my eye out for 2GR's though!
Just measured the bores on two off my 1zz blocks, one has had a recent rebuild and is at 79.5mm other is standard bore.
So may look into a block guard/CSS or run without one with just rods and pistons.
Andy Ayres 2gr is for sale last time I looked on eBay. Blue.
Would be way more drivable than a turbo build I reckon. And sound fabulous obviously.
New Block collected today and already torn down!
Staying 2ZZ with a non sleeved block, so it'll have to be Mahle pistons to work with the MMC cylinder walls.
Little update video below.
Mahle pistons ordered and full king bearing set!
Oh dear and Christmas is coming.
Just lump of coal and a tangerine for the kids this year then.
Quote from: 1979scotte on October 11, 2020, 08:33Oh dear and Christmas is coming.
Just lump of coal and a tangerine for the kids this year then.
Secret to that is not having kids! 😜
Quote from: Gaz2405 on October 16, 2020, 18:49Quote from: 1979scotte on October 11, 2020, 08:33Oh dear and Christmas is coming.
Just lump of coal and a tangerine for the kids this year then.
Secret to that is not having kids! 😜
I know. It has benefits.
Bearings, pistons and a few other bits have turned up.
Crank and main bearings installed.
Will start gapping rings tomorrow and get the rods and pistons in.
Ordered a no.56 valve stem shim for one of the valves, then that will be the head built back up.
Full gasket kit also arrived along with all the sealants and adhesives.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on October 16, 2020, 18:49Quote from: 1979scotte on October 11, 2020, 08:33Oh dear and Christmas is coming.
Just lump of coal and a tangerine for the kids this year then.
Secret to that is not having kids! 😜
Yeah, and i'll go with 3 kids, 2 through Uni at the same time and got a call today saying Son No1 got on one knee yesterday!! Turbo build needs to speed up before my wallet is emptied again!!
Quote from: tets on October 16, 2020, 19:51Quote from: Gaz2405 on October 16, 2020, 18:49Quote from: 1979scotte on October 11, 2020, 08:33Oh dear and Christmas is coming.
Just lump of coal and a tangerine for the kids this year then.
Secret to that is not having kids! 😜
Yeah, and i'll go with 3 kids, 2 through Uni at the same time and got a call today saying Son No1 got on one knee yesterday!! Turbo build needs to speed up before my wallet is emptied again!!
Tell No1 son to pay for his own bloody wedding.
Unless £2.50 and a packet of crisps will do.
Quote from: 1979scotte on October 16, 2020, 20:12Quote from: tets on October 16, 2020, 19:51Quote from: Gaz2405 on October 16, 2020, 18:49Quote from: 1979scotte on October 11, 2020, 08:33Oh dear and Christmas is coming.
Just lump of coal and a tangerine for the kids this year then.
Secret to that is not having kids! 😜
Yeah, and i'll go with 3 kids, 2 through Uni at the same time and got a call today saying Son No1 got on one knee yesterday!! Turbo build needs to speed up before my wallet is emptied again!!
Tell No1 son to pay for his own bloody wedding.
Unless £2.50 and a packet of crisps will do.
I'm sure he will (he earns double my wage) but the Mrs will "obviously" need a new dress and hair do!!
Got a fair few hours on the engine today which were uninterrupted so decided to gap all the rings.
After lots of reading up on ring gap sizes and speaking to mahle over tech support I enede up going with 0.022 top and 0.022 bottom ring which they recommend for over 15psi of boost.
The rings are gapped pretty much out of the box for low boost application.
Once they were done, decided to get the rods built up.
Then had another 30 minutes so chucked them in!
And boom, we're getting there!
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Wrist pin circlips were an absolute bastard mind!
Head now on and torqued to spec.
Going to get it running with the standard sump to start with then I'll swap my Elise parts baffled sump on.
Quite therapeutic getting stuff back together.
Engine management ordered.
Some of you will be glad to know I'm using a proper system this time and not making do with an APEXI Power FC (although this has been spot on)
ECU Master EMU Black ordered, slightly higher than the group buy price from way back but still a bargain for the features it offers.
A few more bits starting to turn up.
Competition Clutch stage 4 rated for a 250% increase in torque.
Ecumaster Emu Black has also turned up now, with swap loom Iat and boost controller.
Modified an old fuel rail I had to run a return fuel rail with a Rrfpr.
Next up I need to try and get over my folks house before lock down and pick up my engine crane and I'm ready to get the old motor out.
The car went away under its cover for winter this weekend.
A few more bits and bobs done on the engine in prep.
I bought another 1zz loom, so I could tidy it up and put it on the engine ready, as I k ow what I'm like if I was swapping it over from the one already in the bay I wouldn't have taken the time to clean it!
Vac block and hoses turned up.
Lotus coil pack cover to keep the rain out.
Clutch is now fitted also along with new flywheel bolts.
New crankshaft pulley and new idle pulley.
Decided when I swap the engine in I'll stick with the C series gearbox to start with, then start mocking up my spare 2zz block with my EA60 block to see what needs doing.
The last couple of weeks I was rebuilding c52 tranny. All I can say is that the bearings inside are a joke and they are not cheap. I was watching a video on YouTube about some honda tranny and the bearings are just huge compared to our tranny. C66 transmission is a better design but still puny bearings inside plus the same size 1-5 gears, its just not built for much torque.
Quote from: Nvy on November 9, 2020, 21:58The last couple of weeks I was rebuilding c52 tranny. All I can say is that the bearings inside are a joke and they are not cheap. I was watching a video on YouTube about some honda tranny and the bearings are just huge compared to our tranny. C66 transmission is a better design but still puny bearings inside plus the same size 1-5 gears, its just not built for much torque.
Far stronger than it needed to be to support stock 1zz or 2zz power levels. It keeps the car light. Have you seen the size of an E154!
I've just spent the last 2 hours stuck down a rabbit hole, researching EA and EB gearboxes, how to remove lift up reverse.
Or go the whole hog and buy the Evora linkages!
So after falling down a massive rabbit hole looking into transmissions last nights, I think i've come up with a plan.
The EB62 shift kit that Frankenstein motorsport sell should fit the EA60 as they have the same mechanism etc.
This should also mean that the Reverse Detent also fits the gearbox, removing the need for "lift up" reverse.
The other options is to fab this myself.
Mounts wise I'll look to get an array of mounts that fit the EA60 mounts and see what fits the best, they don't look too far off.
It will then be a case of finding the correct driveshafts, which hopefully the Rav 4 set that Frankenstein Motor Works use will work with the EA60.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on November 10, 2020, 11:57So after falling down a massive rabbit hole looking into transmissions last nights, I think i've come up with a plan.
The EB62 shift kit that Frankenstein motorsport sell should fit the EA60 as they have the same mechanism etc.
This should also mean that the Reverse Detent also fits the gearbox, removing the need for "lift up" reverse.
The other options is to fab this myself.
Mounts wise I'll look to get an array of mounts that fit the EA60 mounts and see what fits the best, they don't look too far off.
It will then be a case of finding the correct driveshafts, which hopefully the Rav 4 set that Frankenstein Motor Works use will work with the EA60.
Does the transmission bolt on to the engine?
Quote from: Nvy on November 10, 2020, 15:35Quote from: Gaz2405 on November 10, 2020, 11:57So after falling down a massive rabbit hole looking into transmissions last nights, I think i've come up with a plan.
The EB62 shift kit that Frankenstein motorsport sell should fit the EA60 as they have the same mechanism etc.
This should also mean that the Reverse Detent also fits the gearbox, removing the need for "lift up" reverse.
The other options is to fab this myself.
Mounts wise I'll look to get an array of mounts that fit the EA60 mounts and see what fits the best, they don't look too far off.
It will then be a case of finding the correct driveshafts, which hopefully the Rav 4 set that Frankenstein Motor Works use will work with the EA60.
Does the transmission bolt on to the engine?
I'll soon find out as I've got one coming next week!
So.. I've been docked about by the seller of the gearbox I was after.
So I've knocked the gearbox swap idea on the head until its really required.
Also enables me to sort one thing at a time rather than making things slightly more complex than they need to be to start with.
Hopefully once this second lock down is over I'll get the old engine out pre Christmas (I've booked a week off 1st week in December) then have the new lump in the same week.
I'm undecided as to whether I'll drop the whole subframe and give that a going over as it was new a few years ago or just give it a fettle whilst it's still on the car.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on November 17, 2020, 20:36So.. I've been docked about by the seller of the gearbox I was after.
So I've knocked the gearbox swap idea on the head until its really required.
Also enables me to sort one thing at a time rather than making things slightly more complex than they need to be to start with.
Hopefully once this second lock down is over I'll get the old engine out pre Christmas (I've booked a week off 1st week in December) then have the new lump in the same week.
I'm undecided as to whether I'll drop the whole subframe and give that a going over as it was new a few years ago or just give it a fettle whilst it's still on the car.
Drop it and give it a good going over you really can't be too careful with them. Not exactly many left on the shelf.
Managed to get a few hours on the car today.
I'd had a short shift kit that had just been sat in a cup of or ages, so got that put on and went for the shopping to blow away the cobwebs.
Not so fast though the battery said! 8v's!
A quick jump start and it was fine, whilst it was ticking over and warming up I jumped on ebay and bought an obd solar trickle charger.
Also stopped faffing about with the fuel system and bit the bullet and bought a radium return line.
Went the long way around for the shopping to get plenty of charge back in the battery and it started on the button after being inside.
Some more parts arriving today, radium fuel rail with low profile swivel for return fuel system.
Nice peice of kit, quick test fit and all seems good.
Bored tonight browsing the dvla website to see what plates where about.
Ended up taking a punt on this.
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So it'll be known as the STD car from now on 😂
Still unsure as to whether I'll put the plate on or whack it back on one of the sites for resale.
Slow progress due to lock down...
Radium fuel rail has arrived and I've taken a punt on some generic listed 850cc injectors for the 2zz. Had them flow tested last week at the brother in laws and all seem good. I'm still undecided as to whether I'll run them.
For the time being I'll run my 630's.
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I'll be running the fuel rail with a return system all AN6, and with a 1:1 rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
All the vac lines that need to go on and that need to be plugged have now been done and a vac block fitted.
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Moving on to how the car is currently running, the last time I went out in it my laptop lost comms with the Apexi Pfc, the hand controller worked but no cimms through the FC Hako.
So I ordered new cables, potentially thought I may have shorted the ecu some how when I last charged the battery as I had a short.
So spent a few hours on it today..... And it turns out the laptop had updated and somehow deleted the serial/coms driver!
So after ages messing about swapping cables, checking grounds etc it was just a case of reinstalling the driver! FML!
Anyway all connections are working now and logging as they should do.
On the bright side I tidied up all the ecu cables and usb's etc.
The plan is to when I swap the engine to run it in using the the apexi pfc map it's currently on even though or for a 1zz.
Reason being I know this map works, I'm familiar with the platform should it need any changes.
I also need to get the engine underload and driving as soon as possible after starting it to get everything bedded in. I don't want the hassle of learning a new ecu at the same time and potentially hampering that short window I have to bed the rings in.
After its been run in, I'll then swap over to the Emu Black, start turning the boost up and see how we go.
Then it's new turbo time.... I've got a generic GT3076 and GT35 on order to see what they're like, both currently stuck in Germany! If they're pish I'll look into Holsets.
Haven't updated this in a while!
Well both the chinese turbo's I had on order never turned up.
But did manage to get a replica GT3076 last week and and seems OK. Standard ebay turbo, internally gated with water and oil.
Car wise, the car has been sat scorned for a while, whilst it has I've done a flat floor and fitted an S1 elise diffuser to the rear, so will be interested to see how that goes.
Manifold wise I've been in two minds for a while whether to run my current cast manifold as it's drilled for 1zz and 2zz applications, however the exhaust ports are shaped differently on the 2zz and are more oval than the 1zz.
I've been in two minds whether to press the button on an OBX manifold on ebay for a while, but decided against it this morning and I've ordered the radium racing one which was developed for a lotus 2zz turbo kit.
Plan is to get the car MOT'd in the next couple of weeks and finally get some track time booked soon.
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Another years MOT done yesterday, picked it up this morning 1st driving it in a couple of months.
Once warmed up gave it some beans... God I missed this car!
Hopefully be out for a run in it later on and get some updated photos.
A quick shake down and everything seems to be holding up with the flat floor and diffuser.
No drumming, rattles or knocks.
With this power they are phenomenal on b roads!
Bonnet catches and Button catch keeping the bonnet down nice and snug on the headlights now too.
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Not much has happened recently, but here's a walk around video for them asking.
Great day yesterday at Blyton, car performed flawlessly.
Flat floor and alignment working fantastic.
So much so that that two Kswapped Elises even commented on how quick it was in the corners and just couldn't stay with it.
Wet in the morning and after lunch, but plenty of cars there drying the circuit out.
Thank you for sharing that, enjoyed it very much. ;D
So a bit more on the changes I made since the last track day.
1.Got rid of turbo gasket, used flat surfaces and a smearing of exhaust paste.
Result no blowing gasket and no loose turbo bolts at all.
2. Flat floor and rear diffuser, noticeable difference in corner speed and grub, this combined with new alignment made the car feel so well balanced.
3 degrees camber on the rear and 3.5 on the front, zero toe front and 0.1" on the rear.
Next up I'll be swapping over from my Apexi Pfc to my Emu black on this engine to get used to mapping with it and work out any bugs before I look to drop in the 2zz.
Some from this weekends track day.
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Another quick update, easier to do to this way!
Sooooo, I've been looking at my EMU Black and looking to get this fitted and running on my 1zz before I go 2zz.
I've had a look at my plug and play loom.
I've gone back to RRR, with a few queries as it doesn't quite seem plug and play.
The wideband input is via a deutsch DT6 connector so looks like a need an adapter loom and even though the IAT sensor is pinned into the loom, it goes back into the large roadster white plug, which has got me thinking do I need to add something to my Roadster loom or modify it, depending on where its been pinned to in the roadster loom.....
Looks like the loom is going back to RRR for a quick check over 1st before installing.
So I've just been busy enjoying the car really.
I have however managed to come across a very well priced lotus evora gearbox with linkages and cables etc.
First trial fit of how how the bell House adapter plate will need to look and so far looks pretty straight forward.
I've got it located on one bolt at the moment which will be the reference point.
I'll either get these scanned and a plate made or it should be simple enough to make a timber template.
Next is looking into flywheel and clutch combinations.
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These are from a couple of nights ago, now in 18mm ply before going to 1/2 aluminium.
So far so good.
Just waiting on some Auris gearbox mounts to come in and driveshafts.
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Done a few bits away from the gearbox this weekend.
De-pinned the deutsch work style wideband plug that was on my Ecumaster loom and re pinned it for a standard bosch Lsu 4.9.
Bought a few bits, some new Injectors from Dave ID1050's and a new rear crash bar.
Plan is for next week to get the car running on the Emu Black on wastegate pressure, then introduce the boost Controller to get used to the software.
Then swap the 2zz into it in the coming months.
I wouldn't mind picking your brains sometime Gary over a brew or a pint!!
Quote from: tets on October 12, 2021, 19:56I wouldn't mind picking your brains sometime Gary over a brew or a pint!!
No problem you're only over the hill.
Another thing I'd forgotten to mention.
I had ordered a radium engineering 2zz turbo manifold.
I'd ordered it from three different places all saying they had stock, anyway it would seem its now obsolete!
Which isn't really an issue as the cast manifold I have is drilled for the 1zz and the 2zz.
But.....the 2zz has oval exhaust ports and the 1zz round, so wouldn't be a perfect port match and I'm not 100% sure there's enough material on the manifold to match them up.
So I've ended up going with a turbo kits. Com manifold for the time being, it also enables be to get everything mocked up on the engine before it goes in too.
Have you looked a twobrutal surely someone has adapted the gearbox already. Certainly there are mr2 V6s with 6 speeds.
Quote from: 1979scotte on October 14, 2021, 14:29Have you looked a twobrutal surely someone has adapted the gearbox already. Certainly there are mr2 V6s with 6 speeds.
Yeah I've been on and had a read, it's more of a long term project.
So the car is now officially running my Emu Black.
After sifting through loads of base maps to get a feeling for how the software works, I loaded up a modified 2zz base map.
And she firs up first time and idled much smoother than the pfc used to.
I've got an issue trying to get the lambda sensor to get a reading, but luckily I'd bought a spare to just run the ecu on.
So I took the 5v output from my AEM and ran it through one fo the spare analogue inputs into the Ecu to run it.
Haven't been for a run in it yet, I want to spend some time going through the protection parameters, it does move under its own steam though.
Plan is to tune it on wastegate pressure, then add in the boost controller.
Good work
Looking forward to seeing the project progress further
So been for a quick run/log in it.
Quick change up on the VE table to get it nearer to where I wanted it on boost.
Next time out I'll switch to it reading the target lambda tables.
Software is taking a bit of getting used to after using the Pfc for so long.
Very confident now that this will start up and run the 2zz, to get it ran in before taking it for tuning.
Loom all tidied up and it's as neat of an install I'm ever going to do. 😂
Note standard Ecu lovingly zip tied to the roll cage. (good job I didn't get rid of it!)
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Thought I'd get a little review done of the EMU Black I've just fitted to my 1zz Turbo, coming from an Apexi PFC I thought it would give a good balance and over view of how ECU's have come on in the 20 years between the two.
So I purchased the EMU Black from RRR Engineering, with a 1zz plug and play adapter harness with the extra inputs pre wired for oil pressure and lift switch for when I go 2zz.
I also had a couple of spare inputs added for future use and a bosch IAT sensor.
A paid around a grand in total.
Now straight out of the box the ECU is nice and compact which makes for an easy mounting position on the bulk head wall was my final position.
I downloaded the software to have a play about with it first and its all very intuitive and easy to use.
Once I was comfortable with where everything was, I went about connecting up my harness. The EMU Black uses the original ECU to run certain items such as coolant temp gauges on the dash and a few other items.
Once plugged in, I ran a silicone hoes through the bulk head to attach to the on board MAP sensor.
After searching around online and looking at various base maps, I made the decision to build my own base map using items from the the MWR 2zz base map and adjusting to suit the 1zz turbo I'm currently running.
After watching hours of ECU Master USA youtube videos, I started my methodically working my way through the menu list.
To start with setting up my analogue inputs and making sure I had readings from all sensors.
Following this I went onto the VE table, now this was the 1st main difference from the PFC for me as the PFC didn't use VE table it used injection timing, time open and % of fuelling.
Another couple of hours watching the HP Academy videos and Tuning fork on VE tables and I was comfortable with what I had in the settings.
Next up the injector wizard tool is amazing, select the injectors you have and it does everything else for you.
After this I set m target AFR table and we went for a 1st start.......
Nothing it wouldn't "catch", after checking back through my injector settings, there are two types of Siemens deka 630cc Injectors, in my haste I'd selected the wrong ones.
After that it fired straight up and idled perfectly, no having to learn its idle like on PFC just perfect idle straight away.
After letting the car get up to temperature and checking the rad fan came on when it was supposed to, I turned the EGO feedback on (Fuelling correction base on the AFR reference table) and went out for a steady drive.
1st impressions where it ran nice and smoother than on the PFC.
After half an hour or some of driving round I came back and checked the fuel trims to see where we were vs target AFR table and it wasn't far off.
So literally up and running very quickly.
That's where I left it for around a week and then looked at it again tonight to get my fuelling spot on.
Now this is where it is much easier to tune, the autotune feature (which you can use with EGO on) is a fantastic piece of kit and makes getting fuelling spot on a doddle!
Simply go out for a drive, log some data. Run autotune, which enables you to compare you VE table and difference and compare your AFR and target AFR.
Highlight and copy the new VE table and paste into your fuelling VE table and boom job done.
Something like that on the PFC for me was hours of logging, checking, changing and re-changing.
Next up was pulls, fuelling was spot on and MAP sensor shows me running 14 psi of boost at peak.
Knock sensor wise, and engine protection wise there are so many protection features you can run its brilliant.
I'll start to add timing now, as currently the car still pulls hard but currently not getting very high knock readings.
The ability to be able to see fuelling and timing maps in 3d makes the smoothing of them much easier.
I've yet to fully realise its full potential but so far very, very impressed with the ease of set up and the ease of tuning.
I would list all of the features but we'd be here forever, but if your curious:
https://www.ecumaster.com/products/emu-black/
I've been running it a few weeks now and now have all the engine protection settings setup, and really enjoying using the software.
Some more playing with the Ecu and I've now got the boost controller set up.
I've so pressed the button on what my final turbo will be.
I've ended up going for a Holset HX32.
This is one of Holset factory hybrid turbo's, with a Hx35 compressor side and a HX30 turbine side with a 7cm turbine housing which should see quick spool times but also be good for 400-500hp.
It should be here in the next couple of days so will get some first impressions and photos up.
Quick spec below:
SPECIFICATION-
-Large alloy HX35 compressor housing (8in dia), with 4in anti-surge MWE ported inlet, and 2in (ID) v-band outlet
-7 blade HX35 compressor wheel with 52mm inducer and 76mm (same as GT3076R) exducer capapble of 50lb/min
-Oil cooled journal bearing HX30 core with 360 degree thrust bearing and heavy duty shaft
-Quick spool 7cm HX32 turbine housing with a T28 inlet flange, 2.5in v-band outlet, and internal wastegate
-High flow 65mm HX30 turbine wheel with quick spool 52mm exducer (GTX2871R is far smaller- 54mm/47mm)
So turbo has arrived and a quick mock up and it's big!
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Looks awesome good work 😀
Soooooo....big brake kits.
Spotted some adaptors on eBay to run Brembo calipers and 305mm discs.
So snapped these bad boys up for a rebuild over winter.
Alfa Romeo 4 Pot Brembo.
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So great day at Blyton yesterday car was absolutely flying, with quite a few people coming over to check what had been done to it after it came back in. It's great to chat to people about cars and general tuning talk
Logged two full sessions on the EMU Black to keep an eye on things.
IAT, stayed mid 40's for the duration, but did get heat soak up to 31°c whilst in paddock. With an ambient of around 12°c.
So may look at some additional protection for the charge cooler over winter.
I do have a larger radiator to fit in the meantime.
1st session out only lasted ten minutes though, before being red flagged. I was two cars behind a fiat 500 that shot a rod through the block and dumped a load of oil through Port Froid. I was far enough away not to see it happen, so went flat through the corner......😜
Ended up in a high speed spin 80+mph, going off backwards over all the concrete and knackered potholes.
Track was shut for a good 20 minutes whilst it was cleared.
Also my lack of maintenance and just sending it caught up with me towards the end of the last session.
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Both rear discs cracked, and pads down to nothing 🤣
Cheered myself up when I got home by getting the turbo clocked and properly mounted into it new home and ordered all the v band adapters required.
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Decided to switch things up a bit.
Now going straight to running the HX32, instead of using my TD04.
So got some ordering done last night.
1. Selection of 3" mild pipes to make up my exhaust.
2. A larger 76mm charge cooler
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3. A selection of V bands for making the down pipe and lambda bung.
4.v band compressor adapter and silicone reducer elbow.
5. Oil drain fittings
6. Reflective hold heat management tape.
And a few others bits.
So tonight I've been in the garage and swapped over my adjustable mamba actuator, I've gone for my 7 psi spring 1st to tune to waste gate pressure.
My engine crane is now back at home so I'm going to maybe make a start on dropping the 1zz this weekend.
Ordered a few more bits for the rebuild this weekend.
Fresh set of 2zz coil packs, turbo heat blanket, full set of silicone hoses in black, new lotus Elise series 2 rear diffuser and new rear crash bar.
Made a start on the strip down this afternoon.
Got the diffuser removed and the engine under tray/flat bottom.
Gave the Brembo calipers a quick clean up ready for paint.
Looking to get all the fluids dropped tomorrow, ready for dropping the engine next weekend.
Made a start this morning stripping down a few bits, essentially getting a head start for dropping the engine next weekend.
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Managed to grab another hour or so on the car tonight.
All fluids dropped.
Loom pulled through the bulk head, disconnected from fuse/relay box.
Gear cables disconnected.
Oil pressure and temp sensors removed.
Turbo and manifold removed.
Battery removed.
Water hoses disconnected.
Noticed that once the turbo and manifold was off it looks like my exuberance off running 14 psi through it was starting to take its toll on the engine, you can see quite a bad oil weep from the head gasket.
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My new diffuser arrived today as well, series 2 Elise but extended by 25mm.
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So it's just about ready to drop now.
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I'll pop the drive shafts out tomorrow hopefully.
I don't think I'm going to do the swap in one day, I'm going to give the engine bay and subframe a bit love 1st, and potentially remove the diagonal supports which will give me more room for activities in the engine bay.
Cross section at the rear removed just drilled out the spots welds.
Testing new charge cooler places, it's just too big to sit above the gearbox.
Also got busy with the reflective heat tape 😁
But having it somewhere like this would make sense and give me more space for catch cans and swirl pots.
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Front and rear motor mounts unbolted now too.
Managed to get most of Saturday morning on the car.
Working in a cramped garage space was a bit of a ball ache. But got the engine on my tod.
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After that I got the car pulled out of the garage with th daily.
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Then I started pulling all the peices together inside and left it there for the day.
Around came Sunday and I spent the morning swapping the sump over.
Got my ID1050x injectors fitted onto my radium fuel rail.
Then swapped over oil cooler, got the oil feed line in for the turbo, sapped a few of the water hoses for silicone ones and left it at that.
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Had a few issues over the last two days, managed to snap the bottom hose joiner of the coolant expansion tank whilst fitting a new hose and couldn't get the AC pipes off, so ended up cutting through them and ordering a new pump and lines.(yes I'm keeping the AC)
Gearbox is now back on the engine and pretty much ready to drop back in.
I've ordered a few more AN12 fittings for the oil drain as the 2nd hand ones I'd bought had been butchered with mole grips or similar.
Oh I also remembered to swap the polarity of the TPS sensor before it was too late and it was back in the bay!
Quote from: Gaz2405 on December 2, 2021, 21:57Cross section at the rear removed just drilled out the spots welds.
Testing new charge cooler places, it's just too big to sit above the gearbox.
Also got busy with the reflective heat tape 😁
But having it somewhere like this would make sense and give me more space for catch cans and swirl pots.
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Front and rear motor mounts unbolted now too.
I relocated my battery and put my charger cooler there.
Quote from: 1979scotte on December 5, 2021, 21:46Quote from: Gaz2405 on December 2, 2021, 21:57Cross section at the rear removed just drilled out the spots welds.
Testing new charge cooler places, it's just too big to sit above the gearbox.
Also got busy with the reflective heat tape 😁
But having it somewhere like this would make sense and give me more space for catch cans and swirl pots.
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Front and rear motor mounts unbolted now too.
I relocated my battery and put my charger cooler there.
Yep think I'll end up with it there, just need to make sure the boost pipes squeeze under the cross member/Boot latch.
Had some boost pipes delivered today so had a play about.
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Coming along nicely :)
Keep the pictures coming of the build you're building a weapon of a track car
Well she's in! Sort of, only on 3 mounts as I buggered the thread on timing chain side one.
Had to do some slight clearance on the subframe for the turbo to fit.
Ignore the down pipe, it's getting cut up to be used as a temporary solution to get me to the exhaust shop.
Still all the hoses to connect and transfer the battery to the frunk.
Stupidly I forgot to put the starter motor on before a sling the engine in, so now I'll have to do it from underneath!
A few bits and bobs still to come in the post, so don't think it will be running until next weekend or so.
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So things were going really well until I've just realised I've left the crank position sensor unplugged from the main loom...... And it's a proper pain in the arse to get in to it without dropping the engine again.
So plan is, I have 2 spare engine looms, I'll be making an extension loom and not running it behind the AC compressor.
F'sake!
Thats a bummer.
Slow and steady mate.
Quote from: 1979scotte on December 11, 2021, 15:40Thats a bummer.
Slow and steady mate.
I know.
Thing is,if you rush it you forget stuff and if you take it too slow and steady and forget stuff too...
I need to find the nice middle ground.
I'm going to try getting the car on ramps at the rear, then try to manoeuvre the engine with the engine crane so there's enough room.
Failing that, I'll drop it out.
There's only gear linkages, water pipes, clutch and fuel line to remove.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on December 11, 2021, 16:15Quote from: 1979scotte on December 11, 2021, 15:40Thats a bummer.
Slow and steady mate.
I know.
Thing is,if you rush it you forget stuff and if you take it too slow and steady and forget stuff too...
I need to find the nice middle ground.
I'm going to try getting the car on ramps at the rear, then try to manoeuvre the engine with the engine crane so there's enough room.
Failing that, I'll drop it out.
There's only gear linkages, water pipes, clutch and fuel line to remove.
Only! 😆
Car god's must have been shining on me tonight.
Decided to have a steady hour or so on the car as it was back in the garage in ramps to everything was relatively easy to get to
Made a start by removing the turbo and manifold, disconnected the gear selector cables, undid the two rear hoses and removed the clutch bolts.
All this was in preparation for dropping the engine to get to the CPS plug.
However, whilst I was under there I had a stretch up behind to give it one last go at th CPS plug, I removed the thermostat hose to give me a bit more room, made sure I pulled all the slack out of all the cables and went for it.
"Hang on looks like this might be doable"
I said to myself.
Another quick check to reaffirm which way round the connector needed to go and I went for for it, managed to get both plugs I'm the same hand and slowly managed to bring them together.
Boom!
I may have let out several swear words in utter joy!
No engine out job!
That'll do for tonight I'll put back all the stuff I removed in preparation tomorrow.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on December 13, 2021, 20:31Car god's must have been shining on me tonight.
Decided to have a steady hour or so on the car as it was back in the garage in ramps to everything was relatively easy to get to
Made a start by removing the turbo and manifold, disconnected the gear selector cables, undid the two rear hoses and removed the clutch bolts.
All this was in preparation for dropping the engine to get to the CPS plug.
However, whilst I was under there I had a stretch up behind to give it one last go at th CPS plug, I removed the thermostat hose to give me a bit more room, made sure I pulled all the slack out of all the cables and went for it.
"Hang on looks like this might be doable"
I said to myself.
Another quick check to reaffirm which way round the connector needed to go and I went for for it, managed to get both plugs I'm the same hand and slowly managed to bring them together.
Boom!
I may have let a out a slight, several swear words in utter joy!
No engine out job!
That'll do for tonight I'll put back all the stuff I removed in preparation tomorrow.
That particular connection has to have been an afterthought, everytime I put the loom back on I contemplate extending the wires but know I'll make a pig's ear of it and end up in more trouble.
It's like the mk3 equivalent of the mk2 hose from Hell...
Starting to get most things button up and ticked off now.
Fuel rail and return line installed.
Battery moved to the frunk
Battery cable ran through the passenger side into the engine bay.
Manifold and turbo back on.
Gear selector cables back on along with clutch slave cylinder
Gave the rear subframe a lick of Paint
Still waiting for a spare expansion tank to be delivered.
Other than that she's ready for a test start. (After filling it with oil!)
Although I want to make sure the rest of the car is together, so I can get some miles on the engine as soon as she's started.
Also the stage 4 clutch is much stiffer to operate, but is still no where near what my 1st mini was..
Sooooo.....
She runs!!!
Few issues on start up.
1. Fuel pissing out, (radium rail with ID1050x injectors) ended up having to double or ring them in the rail.
Shouldn't be happening with close to £500 of injectors and fuel rail, but hey that's modifying cars isn't it!
2. Struggled to get oil pressure just by turning on the starter
The engine had been sat a while, so after going back through all of my photo's of the build, double checking the o ring was fitted, priming the oil filter etc. I just decided to send it.
Boom 6 bar of oil pressure.
Few I've not fecked it!
3. TPS still needed the polarity switching in the EMU Black software, as it was reading 100% WOT at closed throttle and vica versa.
Idle is still lumpy and needs some adjustment on the injectors, or I might have a small vacuum leak. I'll get that done one night this week.
So plan is now to get the idle sorted, then put it under some alternating loads for 20 minutes, drop the oil, change the filter, new oil in and go get some miles on it.
I know you know what you're doing but personally I'd do the alternating loads before spending time sorting the idle, I'm about 95% confident I ruined my first rebuild by leaving it idling before breaking the rings in...
Quote from: Call the midlife! on December 20, 2021, 17:05I know you know what you're doing but personally I'd do the alternating loads before spending time sorting the idle, I'm about 95% confident I ruined my first rebuild by leaving it idling before breaking the rings in...
If the idle takes longer than a couple of minutes to sort, that's the plan.
Still running the external wideband controller?
Quote from: shnazzle on December 20, 2021, 20:59Still running the external wideband controller?
Yep still on the innovative wide band, with 0-5v input for the ECU
Quote from: Gaz2405 on December 20, 2021, 22:48Quote from: shnazzle on December 20, 2021, 20:59Still running the external wideband controller?
Yep still on the innovative wide band, with 0-5v input for the ECU
Good. Definitely keep it that way
Well some fact finding happening tonight, started by finding the source of the lumpy/erratic idle.
I checked all the coils, all firing fine.
Then tested the injectors.....
2 of them were working intermittently!!
First thoughts running through my head, dodgy new engine harness maybe?
So swapped back in my 630's...just to check, all firing fine.
1st start then idle straight away, now let's get some load put on this engine!
20 minutes of varying loads. Done.
Now to drain the oil, get the rest of the car put back together and get some miles on her (hopefully Christmas Eve).
I knew I should have used as much of my old tried and tested set up first.
Looking the the injectors it looks like some poor connections on their extended looms, so I'll order a kit to sort that.
Overall glad I got to the bottom of it, but slightly miffed I didn't do a quick outputs check, ( although why would I same harness etc ....) 🤣
Took a half day at work today.
Christmas and all!!
Got home and it was car time.
Drive shafts back in, gearbox filled up.
Snapped the filler cover in half at the O ring fml. Anyway got it out and there's enough led to bodge it at the moment until a new one turns up.
Crash bar back on, charge cooler filled up.
Rear bumper back on.
She then moved under her own steam..
That'll do for now, exhaust next.
Sounds fruity.
So as I'm getting some miles in the engine I'm having some real issue's with how it's running at the moment.
It's not pulling big vaccum at idle, and there definitely isn't a leak.
It's only pulling 10 inhg. Around half of what it should be doing.
Myth only hope is that I've forgotten to put the inlet manifold gasket on but it's highly unlikely.
Now during the rebuild process I don't touch the head, I just assumed it was fine. (Starting to regret it now)
I'd just in the back of my mind that there could be a burnt out bent valve.
So I'm going to drop the engine, (check the inlet manifold).
But I think in all honesty I'm going to give the engine another once over and open it up again, just to be on the safe side.
I think when I put it back together and in in going to do it in stages.
Start with my old turbo and manifold 1st, (I know what that set up should feel like) got three running in. Then switch to the Holset.
I'm going to pull the car out of the garage so I've got plenty of space to work on the engine whilst it's out.
Minor set back, but better to do it now.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on December 27, 2021, 13:25So as I'm getting some miles in the engine I'm having some real issue's with how it's running at the moment.
It's not pulling big vaccum at idle, and there definitely isn't a leak.
It's only pulling 10 inhg. Around half of what it should be doing.
Myth only hope is that I've forgotten to put the inlet manifold gasket on but it's highly unlikely.
Now during the rebuild process I don't touch the head, I just assumed it was fine. (Starting to regret it now)
I'd just in the back of my mind that there could be a burnt out bent valve.
So I'm going to drop the engine, (check the inlet manifold).
But I think in all honesty I'm going to give the engine another once over and open it up again, just to be on the safe side.
I think when I put it back together and in in going to do it in stages.
Start with my old turbo and manifold 1st, (I know what that set up should feel like) got three running in. Then switch to the Holset.
I'm going to pull the car out of the garage so I've got plenty of space to work on the engine whilst it's out.
Minor set back, but better to do it now.
Compression test come up OK?
Where is your MAP sensor?
What are you idling at? Mine has to idle fairly high to get enough vacuum for the MAP sensor with the big cams.
Tried idle all the way out 1300 and never pulled more than 50kpa.
I've had a good couple of hours on it since the last post and it's just about ready to dropout now.
It just didn't feel right all through the rev range.
Quote from: shnazzle on December 27, 2021, 13:51Quote from: Gaz2405 on December 27, 2021, 13:25So as I'm getting some miles in the engine I'm having some real issue's with how it's running at the moment.
It's not pulling big vaccum at idle, and there definitely isn't a leak.
It's only pulling 10 inhg. Around half of what it should be doing.
Myth only hope is that I've forgotten to put the inlet manifold gasket on but it's highly unlikely.
Now during the rebuild process I don't touch the head, I just assumed it was fine. (Starting to regret it now)
I'd just in the back of my mind that there could be a burnt out bent valve.
So I'm going to drop the engine, (check the inlet manifold).
But I think in all honesty I'm going to give the engine another once over and open it up again, just to be on the safe side.
I think when I put it back together and in in going to do it in stages.
Start with my old turbo and manifold 1st, (I know what that set up should feel like) got three running in. Then switch to the Holset.
I'm going to pull the car out of the garage so I've got plenty of space to work on the engine whilst it's out.
Minor set back, but better to do it now.
Compression test come up OK?
Where is your MAP sensor?
Yeah compression cold all 175psi which for 8.8:1 is around where it should be
Mao sensor is ECU's own, but I also check vaccum on my boost gauge which is from another manifold source and all confirm low vacuum at idle, and positive pressure far too early (way before u should be seeing any boost.)
You've got all the one-way valves into the pcv system?
Quote from: shnazzle on December 27, 2021, 17:18You've got all the one-way valves into the pcv system?
Running catch cans...
And it's out again.....
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Quote from: Gaz2405 on December 27, 2021, 17:22Quote from: shnazzle on December 27, 2021, 17:18You've got all the one-way valves into the pcv system?
Running catch cans...
That doesn't matter :) That's just a can between the same pipes :)
Unless your catch cans have one-way valves in them
Quote from: shnazzle on December 27, 2021, 17:50Quote from: Gaz2405 on December 27, 2021, 17:22Quote from: shnazzle on December 27, 2021, 17:18You've got all the one-way valves into the pcv system?
Running catch cans...
That doesn't matter :) That's just a can between the same pipes :)
Unless your catch cans have one-way valves in them
Even if they're venting to atmosphere?
Didn't have one way valves on my old set up.
Both breather crank and cam case venting to a catch can, then to atmosphere.
I can't remember your setup.
Just open questions.
Just in case your mani is atmosphere instead of vacuum with the catch cans
So engine out, ancillaries off, head off, car out on the drive for some room to work.
Left the head upside down last night with some water in to check for leaks.
Ordered a set of ARP studs for the head, new head gasket, and full gasket set.
Hmmmmm...
So after a 24 hour water leak down test on the valves, they're all tight and not letting anything through.
An inspection of the valves with the cams in and turning them manually shows no sticking or signs of bent valves.
I'll remove them all to double check on that front.
So has me thinking that I may have set the ring gaps too large on the first ring.
I'll rebuild with a slightly tighter top ring gap, and go over the IACV and rebuild.
Other than that I'm at a loss to be honest.
All the bores are fine the cylinders with no signs of damage.
If anything it's given me some thing to do over winter/autumn and there's a few bits I want to tidy up in the engine anyway.
A few parts ordered.
New mahle piston rings, I'm going to double check my ring gaps, but pretty sure I did 0.022 for 1st and 2nd ring as per Mahle recommendations.
However, most guys in the US tend to go for 0.20 1st and 0.18 2nd.
I also managed to snap the connector on the vvti solenoid, so ordered a new one too.
I'll get the valves out in the next few day to check them over.
I wish I had you skills... Getting the engine out seems quite hard to me. I will have to do it at some point to get the engine build going.
Knock the door this morning.
UPS, piston rings from Monkey Wrench Racing.
It's incredible how they get stuff from the US to your door step quicker than post UK sellers!
So got an hour or so on the car today.
I've found the problem......
Ring gaps are huge, way out of tolerance.
I was either drunk or had a bad set of feeler gauges
I've ordered another set of gauges to double check, but in 99% sure this was the issue.
That and that stage 2 cams need to idle a little higher.
I have got another low mileage head if its way just incase, which I may send off for a set of big valves putting in and have some head work done to it.
But a slight feeling of relief as it looks like I've found the issue.
10-14mmHg lost because of some wide ring gaps.
I'd never have come up with that. Had no idea it could make that much difference. Wouldn't the compression have been off?
Quote from: Gaz2405 on December 30, 2021, 18:56So got an hour or so on the car today.
I've found the problem......
Ring gaps are huge, way out of tolerance.
I was either drunk or had a bad set of feeler gauges
I've ordered another set of gauges to double check, but in 99% sure this was the issue.
That and that stage 2 cams need to idle a little higher.
I have got another low mileage head if its way just incase, which I may send off for a set of big valves putting in and have some head work done to it.
But a slight feeling of relief as it looks like I've found the issue.
Didnt know you can fit bigger valves, can you shed some light on it?
Quote from: Nvy on December 30, 2021, 19:33Quote from: Gaz2405 on December 30, 2021, 18:56So got an hour or so on the car today.
I've found the problem......
Ring gaps are huge, way out of tolerance.
I was either drunk or had a bad set of feeler gauges
I've ordered another set of gauges to double check, but in 99% sure this was the issue.
That and that stage 2 cams need to idle a little higher.
I have got another low mileage head if its way just incase, which I may send off for a set of big valves putting in and have some head work done to it.
But a slight feeling of relief as it looks like I've found the issue.
Didnt know you can fit bigger valves, can you shed some light on it?
I'd assumed you would be able to, the exhaust valve looks like it coils go bigger.
The head can be flowed and ported though.
Quote from: shnazzle on December 30, 2021, 19:3210-14mmHg lost because of some wide ring gaps.
I'd never have come up with that. Had no idea it could make that much difference. Wouldn't the compression have been off?
Also you've not seen how much they're out by......insert facepalm emoji.
Personally I doubt its the ring gap but hope you get it sorted.
What gap did you have ?
Quote from: thetyrant on December 31, 2021, 05:15Personally I doubt its the ring gap but hope you get it sorted.
What gap did you have ?
Like way over 1mm! (No idea what went on!)
The car was dead until it started seeing some boost.
Like I've said on Instagram, of it's not the ring gap it's at least putting the engine back together and double checking everything again.
Back on the operating table again!
Sump has just been through the dishwasher for a clean up ;D
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Hopefully once all back together all is good, i watched a video few years ago experimenting with ring gaps it was really interesting, can't remember all the details but basics of it where even opening the gaps right up made very little difference to power and how it ran, main thing is not to have them too small as that soon destroys engine.
Keep up the good work 😀
Pistons back in, after a couple of hours researching I went with 0.019" (0.48mm) top ring and 0.022"(0.55mm) bottom ring.
This showed up in my email just now haha
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I'll freely admit, I take them out of the packet and stick them straight on the piston and in the hole 🤓
Quote from: shnazzle on December 31, 2021, 20:49This showed up in my email just now haha
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🤣 I was subscribed to their tuning packages for a while, mainly the ECU tuning side. Some good stuff.
Quote from: Call the midlife! on December 31, 2021, 21:17I'll freely admit, I take them out of the packet and stick them straight on the piston and in the hole 🤓
😅 Full send!
No major bits since over the last couple of days.
Redid the field lines, fully braided, and installed a new 340l fuel pump and an return line.
Also fitted by 1:1 rushing rate fuel pressure regulator.
I've alsi reinstalled the id1050x injectors looks like there's enough room to run them without the loom extensions they were on before.
Before I get the engine bolted in first thing I'll do is test the fuel pressure for any leaks at the rail and test fire the injectors.
Engine wise I've gone over the head, removed throttle body and cleaned the IACV.
There were a couple of small silicone hoses that I missed swapping over so got them swapped over.
The sump is all cleaned up and the threads all cleaned out and bolts cleaned back up ready for installation once the sealant shows up this week.
Hopefully the head gasket will arrive this week with the new arp bolts, so we can get the tuning back together.
New ARP head studs arrived today.
So on with the head,in with the cams, timing chain on and timed up, timing chain cover on, water pump, alternator, idler, tensioner, AC pump.
Inlet manifold on, throttle body and all piped up.
Cam cover to go on and were ready to go back in!
Don't forget to put a big reminder on it to connect the cam sensor while you can 🤓
Quote from: Call the midlife! on January 8, 2022, 19:15Don't forget to put a big reminder on it to connect the cam sensor while you can 🤓
Already done it 🤦♂️🤣
What was the boost delivery like with the Holset
HX32. I've been watching your posts with interest. I was going to try a HE221W but was interested to hear how you get on with yours before diving in.
I'm planning to fit Mahle pistons but was looking at CR of 10.1
Little bit of prep the last couple of days ready for the engine going back in at the weekend.
Engine off the stand, gearbox attached.
Also went through some of my old rusty nuts and bolts and cleaned them up in brick acid, then a quick oil quench.
Garage all cleared out and tidy ready to roll the car in on Saturday morning.
And the fecker's back in!
20220115_142639.JPG
Still some little bits to do before a start up, but not much.
A good mornings work!
Nice work! Is that u bend vacuum hose on the block kinked at the bend or just a trick of the photo?
Quote from: Call the midlife! on January 15, 2022, 15:45Nice work! Is that u bend vacuum hose on the block kinked at the bend or just a trick of the photo?
Good Spot, ran out of Bungs for the vacuum block, so it's two outlets looped together to act as a two bungs.
A few bits done this evening.
All boost hoses on.
Gear cables back on, (don't know why but for some reason I hate this part!)
Whilst I wait for my for gauge to turn up, I primed the pump and tested for leaks none...few!
So ID1050x injectors can fit on a standard loom with a 2zz.
I need to think about modifying the fuel pump cover as with the return line in now it doesn't fit back on properly.
Depending how it goes tomorrow with other jobs I might go for a start.
Awesome progress, I have a question on the cross member massaging. I did something stupid, purchased Borg Warner 6758 turbo and have equal length tubular manifold that sits rly low so I think ill have to mod the cross member. How did you do it?
Quote from: Nvy on January 23, 2022, 07:49Awesome progress, I have a question on the cross member massaging. I did something stupid, purchased Borg Warner 6758 turbo and have equal length tubular manifold that sits rly low so I think ill have to mod the cross member. How did you do it?
Thanks, I heated mine up with some plus gas (plumbers gas) and then hit it with a big hammer a few times!
Soooooo....
Had some time this evening.
1st things first:
Checked injectors were firing. Tick.
Checked coils were firing. Tick.
It's got oil in. Tick.
It's got coolant in. Tick.
Quick once over with the 10mm, 12mm and 14mm. Done.
Crank for oil pressure. Tick.
Go for start....nothing just cranking.....
Try again.....nothing....
Have I set the new injectors up properly in the ECU? Quick check. Yes.
Scratching my head thinking which way would be best to set the thing on fire....
Look behind the drivers seat....
I'd not plugged the loom back into the fuel pump. Knob head!
Plugged it back in.
Went for a start, boom and we're away and a much smoother idle than before.
Let it run for a few minutes giving it some different loads.
Now to get the driveshafts back in and we're away again!
So my spare fuel pressure regulator gauge turned up to today, as I'd broken the other when I put the engine.
So wound the gauge in to see where we were sitting....
60psi...wow that's a little on the high side, went to turn the screw down and it wouldn't go any lower....
Some Head scratching later and after dismantling the fpr, I'd determined that the spring was too stiff above the bladder.
So I took it out and tried to manipulate it a little and it was having non of it.
So thinking back to some YouTube videos I'd been watching recently of material properties and heat treatment and what it can do to metals. +(I've also studied material properties at Uni a long time ago!)
I decides to heat up the spring until cherry red, compress it a little and let it cool slowly.
Once cooled I popped it back in and tightened everything back up, prime the pump, boom 40psi and adjustability, we're back in the game!
I would replace that regulator something isnt right, heating the spring like that may of got you by but could also weaken it and you really dont need that on such a critical item.
Good work so far though looks like wont be long until its making power :D
Quote from: thetyrant on January 26, 2022, 15:33I would replace that regulator something isnt right, heating the spring like that may of got you by but could also weaken it and you really dont need that on such a critical item.
Good work so far though looks like wont be long until its making power :D
Yeah talking it through with guys today at work we were discussing it's viability and how it would react to boost pressure.
I've ordered another regulator to be on the safe side anyway.
Some systems run at 58psi,maybe just the wrong one purchased?
So I've been a busy boy the last couple of days out getting some miles on it.
1st today properly leaning into it, still don't have the big cam set up on the ECU yet.
But feck me! I saw 25 psi a few times today. Absolutely terrifying!
Dropping the oil today for a check, gapping the plugs a little closer and a general check out and all seems good.
25psi?
In a 2zz?
How many spare blocks you got lying around? :) hahaha
Quote from: shnazzle on January 29, 2022, 14:1225psi?
In a 2zz?
How many spare blocks you got lying around? :) hahaha
A few actually, but if I'm to hit my goal of 400-500hp it'll need to see that and more 😁
Quote from: Gaz2405 on January 29, 2022, 16:18Quote from: shnazzle on January 29, 2022, 14:1225psi?
In a 2zz?
How many spare blocks you got lying around? :) hahaha
A few actually, but if I'm to hit my goal of 400-500hp it'll need to see that and more 😁
Mental. But I like it
So getting some miles on the car is/was going well.
I was having an issue with a random miss fire and whilst trying to diagnose I took the cam cover off and cams out to check the valve springs.
I then set the timing up again and went out again.
It still wasn't right but me being me still gave it no mechanical sympathy whatsoever.
End of a pull and an enormous backfire and then the car running dog rough, so I limped it home.
Back at home checked the compression, 50psi......on all cylinders.
Something isn't right here.
Left it for the weekend and considered my options.
Pull it out and full rebuild to see what wrong?
Buy another motor in the short term?
I ended up doing a bit of both.
Set of brand new coils from RRR.
New plugs.
Found out I was running half a millisecond short of dwell timing. So that should be the misfire issue.
So back home tonight, cam cover off to see if I could see anything.
Engine at TDC, cam lobes weren't lining up properly.
Looks like it's skipped a tooth or two, hence the poor compression on all cylinders.
So chain off, cams timed up again and back in with the chain tensioner.
I think the tensioner may not have released properly first time round and pottering about with light throttle may not have been noticeable.
Quick test of compression and we're back at 175psi on all cylinders.
And started sweet as a nit first turn of the key.
Phew!!
Chain and cam hears are less than 1500miles old an in good condition so I'm just going to keep an eye on it.
Still going to pick up a new engine tomorrow night as I've committed and don't want to let the guy down by messing him about.
Second engine picked up.
Quick 4 hour round trip after work.... :o
20220203_120304.JPG
Little bit of tinkering tonight, had a weep from a coolant hose on the intake side of the engine.
I was hoping it was one of the ones going into the oil cooler.
It was, but it was from the block side so had to remove the starter motor to get to it.
I'd even said to myself when putting the new hose kit on, "why are you removing hoses that aren't leaking?"
That should be that sorted now.
Just got a slight weep from one of the oil pan bolts now, but I'll sort that when I next drop the oil.
So managed to get the car running brilliantly.
However, I think it's previous overheating issue before I got it may have warped the head and I'm kicking myself for not checking it.
Car runs brilliantly, but has a slight weep of oil from the head near cylinder 1 and after taking the cam cover off the oil breather is showing signs of mayonnaise.
I'm going to bite the bullet and chuck my new engine in on a smaller frame turbo.
Small set back.
But should be hopefully be a quick turn around.
Couple of updates on YouTube.
But were ready to go again this weekend!
(https://i.ibb.co/PjJNDq7/20220225-203149.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PjJNDq7)
(https://i.ibb.co/WPsLc4d/20220225-202505.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WPsLc4d)
(https://i.ibb.co/zss11HD/20220225-202442.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zss11HD)
Annnnnnddddd back in ....
Only had a few hours this afternoon as I'd been out in the morning, but long enough to get it on two mounts.
(https://i.ibb.co/16XVXgn/20220226-180848.jpg) (https://ibb.co/16XVXgn)
Good job as always! Can you please post a pic of how the turbo sits next to the cross member?
Quote from: Nvy on February 26, 2022, 20:00Good job as always! Can you please post a pic of how the turbo sits next to the cross member?
This how the Holset sits.
(https://i.ibb.co/S7Lf7hy/20220213-160511.jpg) (https://ibb.co/S7Lf7hy)
(https://i.ibb.co/q1hb6pY/20211219-113214.jpg) (https://ibb.co/q1hb6pY)
Quote from: Gaz2405 on February 26, 2022, 21:26This how the Holset sits.
(https://i.ibb.co/S7Lf7hy/20220213-160511.jpg) (https://ibb.co/S7Lf7hy)
(https://i.ibb.co/q1hb6pY/20211219-113214.jpg) (https://ibb.co/q1hb6pY)
I have the same manifold and will be fitting the turbo with the cold side pointing left. I hope my turbo is a bit smaller than your holset as it is the small frame efr.
How do you like the manifold? Arent the runners too small? I am thinking to mock the turbo with the engine in the car and if I dont like it to go custom. I hope it fits okay otherwise I will flood the private sales with parts 😁
So we are fully in, connected up etc went for the 1st start ....I've used the starter of the 2nd hand engine I got..... solenoid fires but starter doesn't spin.
I just laughed called it a stubborn tw@t and got a beer.
I'll double check all grounds this weekend and if not bung my old 1zz starter back in as that's a known working one.
(https://i.ibb.co/xhxvmTr/20220304-195559.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xhxvmTr)
Old exhaust is back on after making a new downpipe with a spare 2.5" mild steel 90 I had laying around and a spare o2 bung, which then mates back up to the old system.
I'm contemplating what money I've got in the built 2zz in parts, plus spares etc and seriously considering K24 turbo instead of building my other motor up.
Stock block good for 450hp, better aftermarket support etc.
Just weighing up my options for the moment.
Home tonight after a couple of days working away.
Starter swapped over.
Key turned, started 1st time.
This engine is sooo smooth compared to the one that has come out so will be interesting to see what's going on internally.
I'm leaning towards the head being bad as it's the only thing I didn't rebuild. Or it's the bottom end, because that's the thing I did rebuild 🤣
Anyway small oil leak from the oil cooler pipe (looks like it got kinked and damaged with all the in and out)
But other than that I at least know the issue is mechanical and not in the map or harness etc.
I might just bung the oil cooler ports up to start with rather than faffing with a new hose.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on March 8, 2022, 20:35So we are fully in, connected up etc went for the 1st start ....I've used the starter of the 2nd hand engine I got..... solenoid fires but starter doesn't spin.
I just laughed called it a stubborn tw@t and got a beer.
I'll double check all grounds this weekend and if not bung my old 1zz starter back in as that's a known working one.
(https://i.ibb.co/xhxvmTr/20220304-195559.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xhxvmTr)
Old exhaust is back on after making a new downpipe with a spare 2.5" mild steel 90 I had laying around and a spare o2 bung, which then mates back up to the old system.
I'm contemplating what money I've got in the built 2zz in parts, plus spares etc and seriously considering K24 turbo instead of building my other motor up.
Stock block good for 450hp, better aftermarket support etc.
Just weighing up my options for the moment.
How much power do you want in an Mr2?
My V6 was putting down at least 250 whp and torque and was frankly dangerous in the wet. More power doesn't always make a car more fun.
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 10, 2022, 06:52How much power do you want in an Mr2?
My V6 was putting down at least 250 whp and torque and was frankly dangerous in the wet. More power doesn't always make a car more fun.
Did the car have an LSD? Throwing a 200bhp tune MR2 around a wet track at 10/10th, I've never found it too unpredictable (although harder to be fast relative to the FWD competition)
Although an interesting question where is the max range for power whilst keeping the balance and usability.
Depends what you want from the car though, I love projects where people do it because they can.
Quote from: AJRFulton on March 10, 2022, 08:22Did the car have an LSD? Throwing a 200bhp tune MR2 around a wet track at 10/10th, I've never found it too unpredictable (although harder to be fast relative to the FWD competition)
Although an interesting question where is the max range for power whilst keeping the balance and usability.
Depends what you want from the car though, I love projects where people do it because they can.
What UK mr2 doesn't?
Mine had an S51/54 box out of a Mk2 with the standard Lsd. Broke one drive shaft probably on the dyno.
I know nothing about driving on track
My favourite Mr2 was my V6 before supercharging. 200 ish NA hp more torque.
Whatever you do I hope it puts a smile on your face.
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 10, 2022, 06:52How much power do you want in an Mr2?
My V6 was putting down at least 250 whp and torque and was frankly dangerous in the wet. More power doesn't always make a car more fun.
Goal is 450-500bhp, it's essentially a track day only car.
Whilst I am looking for a fun drive, (which it already is) I also want it to be terrifyingly fast for an MR2.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on March 10, 2022, 15:32Goal is 450-500bhp, it's essentially a track day only car.
Whilst I am looking for a fun drive, (which it already is) I also want it to be terrifyingly fast for an MR2.
It probably won't make such bonkers torque as low down as my rotrex V6 did bit god knows what it will be like when it comes on boost. It sounds scary. Can I have a ride when it's finished 😆
Thinking about it I think Matts track car made around 400 and I believe that was considered terrifying on the road.
I've seen people come back from rides in Chris's old built v6, they were white as a ghost and visibly glad to be alive.
That was "only" about 350?
400+ is just silly
Quote from: shnazzle on March 10, 2022, 22:08I've seen people come back from rides in Chris's old built v6, they were white as a ghost and visibly glad to be alive.
That was "only" about 350?
400+ is just silly
One of the best handling 2s ever. Can't say it scared me. Perhaps a skilled driver helped there.
(https://i.ibb.co/WKTdWh8/20220313-181029.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WKTdWh8)
A successful couple of hours mapping under 4k rpm.
It behaved so well I treated it to a wash.
Bit more of an update, were upto 6k mapping now and I've started to bring the big cam into play now.
I've got crossover set at 5200 at the moment and you can hear the distinctive "lift" exhaust note still when comes on.
I'm still playing the cam timing on it at the moment as it's seems to "struggle" through the rev range.
It's a strange one, the engine note changes but it's a not as responsive as I'd like.
You can can the head flows better on a 2zz than a 1zz, I'm struggling with boost creep quite badly, even with the 6psi Spring on the wastegate.
So I'm going to drop the turbo and port the hell out of the internal waste gate.
Other than that I've had to replace the aux belt as I mine had started squealing.
Decided to go the easy route and ordered to smaller belt to delete the ac as well.
I've had boost creep issues in the past with an ST205. Was solved by adding a resonator to the exhaust.
So managed 3-4 hours on the car tonight.
1st off drop the now redundant Ac compressor, this would've been a doddle.....if I didn't have oil cooler lines running right where you need to drop it out.
After some faffing about it was out.
Other than weight the other reason for doing this was I had a small intermittent water leak which I suspected was coming from the thermostat housing.
Sure enough a tiny weep coming from the stat housing.
I'll sort that when I've next got some time during the day.
Then onto porting the wastegate.
I decided to do it by removing the hot side and the manifold as one piece, by removing the v band style clamp holding the hot side onto the char.
Once the manifold bolts where undone, it came apart relatively easy.
Onto the bench and I started porting away, I managed to increase the waste gate size by just over a 3rd I would say so looking forward to testing it out.
9pm and we're all back together and time for a little test start and we're all good.
Phew!
A good night's work!
So first test drive since the works...
Boost now holds where it's meant to.
I've got lift coming in at 4600rpm, and it pulls all the way to 8200 like it's meant to.
Although I'll be shifting earlier on track.
Even at 6psi I'd say this is close to what my 1zz was doing at 14psi.
Going to send the next couple of hours doing a pulls and checking the data.
Car is currently only seeing 13 degrees of timing at high rpm and from what I've read and seen I should have around 4-5 degrees to play with.
Next up is to fit the boost controller, and get it turned up.
Is that an MR2Ben rear spoiler?
What do you think of it?
Quote from: Topdownman on April 3, 2022, 10:45Is that an MR2Ben rear spoiler?
What do you think of it?
Yes it is, quality is ok, would need quite a bit of prep for some proper paint work rather than my matte black rattle can effort.
It does however make getting the rear lights off a pain as it's very tight.
I take it that its just fibreglass rather than plastic?
All the bumper mounted ones seem to cause that problem but there arent many options still available sadly.
If you get the chance, it would be great to see some close up shots of how it sits at some point.
Quote from: Topdownman on April 3, 2022, 13:34I take it that its just fibreglass rather than plastic?
All the bumper mounted ones seem to cause that problem but there arent many options still available sadly.
If you get the chance, it would be great to see some close up shots of how it sits at some point.
CL performance do a ducktail but, you know, Russia...
Quote from: Topdownman on April 3, 2022, 10:45Is that an MR2Ben rear spoiler?
What do you think of it?
Simon, I "liked " your post complimenting the spoiler, because I thought you were jesting about the raised engine lid. But then later posts about plastic or fibre glass and rattle cans made me think there must be a real spoiler. Found it on post #468!
So little update, I've been out mapping quite a bit and although lift is audible and comes in it still feels like it's lacking something.
I'm currently mapping it using 2 VE tables and target AFR tables.
The tables switch when lift is activated.
From various discussions and threads online it seems 2zz turbo prefer lift at around 5600rpm.
So for now I've gone back to basics, I'm currently mapping the car on wastegate pressure.
1st off mapping with loft turned off and mapping the small cam all the way to 7k.
I'll then map with a very early lift engagement at around 4600rpm on table set no.2.
I'll then change the lift to come in at 5600rpm with the tables changing at the lift point.
The lift point from what I can find online does Dip slightly and requires careful mapping to make sure it does bog from running rich at the point of crossover.
So far though butt Dyno on just the small cam seems inline of not quicker than the old 1zz turbo, you can tell the difference in low down torque though compared.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on April 13, 2022, 22:26So little update, I've been out mapping quite a bit and although lift is audible and comes in it still feels like it's lacking something.
I'm currently mapping it using 2 VE tables and target AFR tables.
The tables switch when lift is activated.
From various discussions and threads online it seems 2zz turbo prefer lift at around 5600rpm.
So for now I've gone back to basics, I'm currently mapping the car on wastegate pressure.
1st off mapping with loft turned off and mapping the small cam all the way to 7k.
I'll then map with a very early lift engagement at around 4600rpm on table set no.2.
I'll then change the lift to come in at 5600rpm with the tables changing at the lift point.
The lift point from what I can find online does Dip slightly and requires careful mapping to make sure it does bog from running rich at the point of crossover.
So far though butt Dyno on just the small cam seems inline of not quicker than the old 1zz turbo, you can tell the difference in low down torque though compared.
Isnt it like this?
Tune small cam
Tune big cam
Change lift where these cross
Quote from: Nvy on April 14, 2022, 06:05Isnt it like this?
Tune small cam
Tune big cam
Change lift where these cross
Some do it that way, but the tens to not like cross over at the exact point where they cross from what I've read, either a couple of hundred before of after.
I'll go by feel to what seems right before putting in a Dyno and checking.
Couple of hours on the road yesterday.
Small cam tuned and I would say is on a par with the old 1zz turbo.
Big cam, needs lots of fuel pulling out, it's halfway there but still feels like it's holding back until around 7k then comes alive.
I first thought my turbo was too small, but it wouldn't come alive at 7k if it was.
So I'm going to get some more time on it. Check all the usual culprits, OCV, lift bolts etc
Getting there though.
Excellent evening mapping!
I've set the change of cam to come in at 5650.
This seems to be the spot where it is as seamless as it can be and also leaves me in lift when I shift at 8k, even with the std FL 6 speed box.
Managed to get my series 2 Elise rear diffuser fitted over the weekend too.
Next step is to hire a Dyno for the day and have a see what power we're making.
Currently peaking at 12psi 🤣.
A few pictures from today's drive
(https://i.ibb.co/9T5N9mw/IMG-20220423-195320-243.webp)
(https://i.ibb.co/9q84RwP/IMG-20220423-195320-327.webp)
So the lift has never quite worked the way I think it should and the car seems to perform better just on the small cam.
Lift does come on as you can tell from the change in exhaust note, but its seems to struggle and there is a defined drop in power (which can also be seen by using the virtual dyno setting in the ECU)
I've changed the lift bolts (they were fine anyway), cleaned the oil screen (also fine) and the solenoid was also working, as you can invert the power on it on idle and the car stalls, I've also tested its functionality via the ecu with the engine off.
So looking over various 2zz lift threads it seems I may have an exhaust restriction as they can be very susceptible to breathing changes. It can't be on the inlet side as its forced induction, so I'm pinning my hopes on the exhaust.
I've fabbed up a quick 3" system with a single resonator to see if that works before getting a new system built.
So fingers crossed, I'll get out for test this weekend so see if its helped.
Sounds odd, is your exhaust 2.5" turbo back at the moment ? i know on the n/a 2zz exhaust can make a big difference especially the manifold but if your 2.5" turbo back without any neckdowns i dont think it should hold back till north of 300hp, ive ran 350hp with a 2.5" on Evo2 and only went 3" when moving upto next level.
Hopefully the large exhaust helps though as would be an easy fix, i suspect its something in the mapping though as expect there is quite a few tricks to mapping the low/high lift etc to get it working well and maybe have to bite the bullet try find a experienced 2zz forced induction mapper to go over it.
Yeah I'm hoping it's just a blocked cat on the old system (2.5"). It's the cheap Malian sports cat.
Going 3" will at least rule that out if it's not.
Then if not like you say into get mapped properly.
But fuel,timing and Vvti are all in line with were they should be.
Well i would not be surprised if that cat was choking it up quality seems very hit and miss, hopefully its that :)
I found this thread if you havent seen it already sound like guy had similar issues - https://www.spyderchat.com/threads/turbo-2zz-problem-coming-on-lift-ecumaster.156875/
Quote from: thetyrant on April 27, 2022, 15:52Well i would not be surprised if that cat was choking it up quality seems very hit and miss, hopefully its that :)
I found this thread if you havent seen it already sound like guy had similar issues - https://www.spyderchat.com/threads/turbo-2zz-problem-coming-on-lift-ecumaster.156875/
Yeah that's me at the end of it asking how he sorted it 😂
Mine was no where near bad as his was though. I can at least pull through lift.
Sooo. Haven't touched the car since my last post been too busy with work and other life thinhs!
But today it got some love, oil and filter change.
Then out to try this 3" exhaust idea.
First thoughts were, I hope this doesn't fix it because its far too loud!
So it wasn't that, that was the issue loft still felt sluggish.
So I started sweeping the cam angle range to see if that helped.
I was originally set at 587, so in went up 29 degrees and tried a pull and I got lots of hesitation.
Right we're getting somewhere.
So I tried 575, tried a pull and it was better.
Ended up settling at 567, with 50 degree max retard or advance.
This seemed to be the sweet spot for idle and a good strong lift.
Was running out of time so set lift at 5200rpm.
The car totally transformed!
Thank feck for that.
I'll spend tomorrow putting back on my 2.5" exhaust.
Time for some track days now!
Great afternoon mapping on the road today.
Lift set at 4600 seems to be the sweet spot.
I've been having some low speed rear wheel hop, which is pointing towards the diff being on its way out as I also get one tyre fire setting off at pace.
So I've ordered a box from Hooligan racing with the Celica gear set, LSD and MR2 6th.
Should make the most of my set up this way.
Sooooo long awaited update.
Gearbox from Hooligan racing never happened.
Chased for invoice for payment a couple of times, never materialised.
Guess they're just busy, I'm sure if I've had chase more it would have got sorted. But hey ho here we are.
So gearbox is on the back burner.
I'd left the car for a few months outside and it was feeling sorry for itself.
20220709_210917.jpg
So one weekend I decided to get it up in the Tampa and tick of a few smalls jobs ready for its MOT.
20220709_111405.jpg
Jobs on the list were:
Convert the sump to studs rather than bolts. I'd had a few strip on me so needed to helicoil a few of them.
Oil and filter change.
I'd had an annoying small coolant leak that I couldn't trace.
1st two went without a hitch.....
The annoying coolant leak....
It was actually coming from the top of the thermostat housing where the hard pipe meets that goes around the side of the block.
One of the fixings had some how sheared so it was only held in by one bolt and would only leak/wrap with the engine off.
I took the hard pipe off/out of the way to try and get something on the broken stud. Not happening not enough room.
Seeing as this was a put me on engine and the leak was only small and only when cool I continued to bodge it good and proper.
Left the stud in, took the small steel gasket out and ran a small bead of sump sealant and tightened back down.
The result..... no more water leak... successful bodge.
I also had a ropey racing engine vent to fit.
So with the car now back up and running, I had a play about with the idle AFR and enrichment on the ECU ready for the MOT.
Got them all to where I feel it needs to be.
So the car is now ready for its MOT and a few more track days.
In other news my forged engine was striped down and inspected.
The weeping head gasket seems to be an installation issue, or poor inferior head gasket as the head itself is fine.
So a new set of ARP head bolts (to be in the safe side) and the head is back on and torqued down to spec in 3 Equal steps.
Fully rebuilt oil pump has arrived today so well start building to whole engine back up soon.
So MOT next week.
Car is running great at the moment.
It's pulling the strongest it's ever pulled.
I think I actually prefer the slightly longer gears of the 1zz six speed.
With lift being activated at 5600rpm, I don't actually drop out of it on changes.
Picked up some GB side skirts a couple of weeks ago too.
Boost controller has been wired in and ready to be plumbed for a high and low boost option.
Currently running waste gate pressure.
10psi tailing off to 8psi at the end.
I had booked on the Toyota track day at Donnington,but that got cancelled yesterday.
I'll most likely end up getting a few in at Blyton in the next couple of months.
Successful MOT yesterday....
Started dropping its coolant whilst out mapping today....aahhh!!
Difficult one to find, it was leaking from the IACV. It's somehow got loose on the three screws.
So coolant dropped, charge cooler dropped just to get access to nip them up, put a dab of thread locker on just to make sure!
Both systems bled back up and out for some mapping.
I wanted to do some back to back playing with the Vvti settings, after watching a few tutorials online and the best way to try and do it on the road.
I set out with my various settings and using the virtual Dyno tool on the Emu black and I seem to have it as best I'll get it.
Cam cross over is at 5600rpm with a smooth transition.
Peak boost pressure of 12psi at 4.5k tailing off to 10psi all the way to 8.3k.
I've aired on the side of caution with AFr's and have them at 11.5 whilst under full boost and WOT.
Next is to plumb in the boost controller, and start raising the boost.
With the Td04 turbo, I'm assuming 14psi will be achievable/manageable.
More playing with the Vvti map yesterday, contrary to what you read on the internet the car seems to love some cam advance on boost, with noticeable gains from 3.5k to 5.5k.
3 Port MAC boost controller now installed and running through the set up for closed loop
A few issues last night with it over boosting, but a 190kpa failsafe fuel cut saving the day whilst testing.
Some more research last night and I seem to have cracked it now though, so I'll be out again next week playing with the boost control.
Since the video update I've been playing with the boost control, been looking to set peak boost at 190kpa or 13psi.
Setting up the boost DC ref table is relatively straight forwards for open loop boost control but its trial and error setting up the PID settings for closed loop. The issue is I'm having a boost spike and the PID controller (with the settings I've tried) is struggling to stop the spike as it rises. I've set a fuel cut at 205kpa to stop massive over boost, but its still frustrating.
So in order to combat this and by going on some threads from the New Celica and Spyderchat, I've just decided to up my wastegate pressure spring and go for a higher base rate anyway.
Reason being I'm only using a small turbo compared to some of the GT28's that are being used in the states.
So plan is to run a 15psi spring with my TD04 turbo, which will be close to its efficiency by all accounts.
I've also been experimenting with lift crossover, I've gone back to 6.2k for lift engagement, reason being that for spirited road driving it means I still have a nice torquey pull up to that point and the transition to lift at that point is very smooth.
In other news I've found where my NSR wheel hop is coming from.....Spherical bearing has shat itself so I've ordered a new set along with a full bushing kit and rear wheel bearing from GT4 Play.
I'll hopefully get out tonight to test the new wastegate spring.
Also got a couple of choices to go in for mapping towards the end of October, RRR or Crisp Tuning.
Muchos success last night at testing the new waste gate spring.
205kpa Peak tailing off to 190kph at 8200, turbo most likely can't keep up.
My testing road for using the EMU Black's built in Virtual dyno shows good improvements across the whole rev range and shows a much smoother power band.
I went with caution and took out quite a bit of timing after recalibrating the map upto 220kpa.
Next step is to start adding in the timing again to really see the benefits.
I think this will be the max that this little turbo can do, we'll most likely leave it here, get a power run done.
Enjoy it for a while and then get the built motor in sometime in the new year ready for next seasons track days.
Just a question, maybe you wrote it somewhere but I missed it. Did you modify the manifold in any way and did you use longer studs or bolts? I have the same one and want to stock some parts before the build starts.
Quote from: Nvy on October 6, 2022, 06:02Just a question, maybe you wrote it somewhere but I missed it. Did you modify the manifold in any way and did you use longer studs or bolts? I have the same one and want to stock some parts before the build starts.
Longer studs for the 1zz.
2zz was fine and didn't nerd them.
Managed to get a couple of hours out mapping tonight.
Wanted to try a few things with the Vvti timing.
I'd looked up the standard 2zz Vvti cam position at WOT throughout the rev range.
My theory was that the Vvti needs to be at around 25° at cross over for the smoothest transition, then tapered down on to zero ° of advance by red line.
By moving the cross over point and altering the Vvti advance I was hoping to lower the cross over whilst still maintaining as smooth and as much space under the "Dyno" curve as possible.
Whilst it's not an exact science using the inbuilt virtual Dyno, it at least gives me tangible data based on the same bit of road.
After 8-10 runs I've settled on a 5.8k cross over point.
I'd previously been out on Monday night and managed to get a load of timing added back into the map.
I've now got my knock sensor and parameters set up to pull ignition should be there be any knock as well to be on the safe side, but we're just about there now.
Out for more mapping today, task was to really try and get the Vvti map nailed, then look at playing around with cross over points.
After chasing my tail for about 2 hours, I more or less ended up where I was before I started!
All good fun though.
Came home and put a couple of extra turns on the wastegate actuator rod, thinking behind this was to have slightly higher peak and hold it for a little longer.
Peak is now at 205kpa tailing off to 190 kpa at 8.3k.
First two pulls and I started to show a misfire.
Straight home, pull the plugs. NGK Bkr6e-11 's gapped to 0.032" regapped them to 0.028".
Back out and the misfire's gone(few!)
Car now making peak boost from 2.8k to 6k and is rapid!
1zz 6spd box and 2zz turbo for me go together brilliantly!
So annoyingly, my bidge job of fixing my old coolant leak seems to not have worked.
This is the one where one of the M6 studs has snapped where the hard pipe goes to the top of the thermostat housing.
I'd fixed down with just one bolt and used rtv, but its a blind job and you can't properly see.
Came out to the car last night to a small pool of coolant, its obviously dropping the amount of coolant left in the hardpipe.
I'm in two minds whether to just keep an eye on it, as it only leaks when its cooling down and turned off, it doesn't leak at all when running.
Other option is:
I've got a week off coming up next week and might just bite the bullet and get the built engine back in.
Half a day to drop the old one out, half a day swapping bits over.
Half a day to get the new one in.
and bobs your bob.
So decided to bite the bullet and pull the engine.
IMG_20221025_101917_407.jpg
4 hours to get the lino out, tried a different method this time as I couldn't be bothered to get the engine crane out to lift the car up high, so went with bringing the subframe out with it too.
20221025_142324.jpg
Now that was out I had a day or so swapping bits over.
Before I put it back in I have the engine bay a good clean and took care of a few rust spots.
I'd also welded in a new bulk head mount for the strut brace that I'd got from J spec as I'd stripped the threads on mine.
So the forged lump is now back in and the Holset HX32.
Got everything connected back up today, next job is to re-bush the whole car.
I also need to replace one of the rear brake hard lines as I nipped it with the subframe.
20221027_163149.jpg
You can really tell the difference between the turbo's and charge coolers!
20221027_143632.jpg
:) :) keep going love to see how this gets on :) :)
do you enjoy the spanner work and engine know how :)
Quote from: puma2 on October 28, 2022, 07:24:) :) keep going love to see how this gets on :) :)
do you enjoy the spanner work and engine know how :)
Thanks. Yep I enjoy the spanner work million miles away from what I do at work and gives me time to relax and not think about anything.
Pain when you hit hurdles though!
Final bits today.
Swapped over sumps. Elise parts one had a thorough clean in the dish washer .... :))
Oil feed and return.
Had a few sump bolts strip the threads, but luckily I was ready with a spare sumo stud conversion kit I'd bought.
I'll let the sealant set and get some oil in her tomorrow.
Had another session ok it this afternoon.
Whipped the hubs off and all the control arms.
ABS sensors where stuck fast so they got snipped and punched out in the bench.
Managed to get all of the bushes out without much hassle apart from one.
Heated them all up from the outside and had a selection of deep sockets that fitted the bill for knocking them out.
One more hub to do tomorrow, spherical bearing took some getting in, but some threaded bar later and a 32mm socket as a spacer and it was in.
Bushes, hubs and arms all done and refurbished.
Got a few finishing touches in the exhaust hangers and final clamps.
Vac lines all connected.
Charge cooler water pipe work done.
Engine filled with oil.
Just awaiting abs speed sensors and brake hard line.
Thejniya hubs back on, drive shafts, full the gearbox and we're done.
Awful quality video, but first turn of keya and she's alive.
Running on old map so will need to double check cam and crank timing.
Hubs all on and drive shafts in this after noon meant I could fill the gearbox and get her started.
I'll do a rough alignment and get the new abs sensors and brake hard lines in this evening and hopefully.
Get the the Mrs to pump the brake pedal in the morning and we should be good to go and see some real boost!
So this morning didn't really go to plan.
Which was fit new brake and enjoy boost.
Instead it went like this:
Struggle like feck on NS the rear toe adjuster bolt.
New bolt required.
Ended up disconnecting the rear toe arm from the hub and getting it as close by eye then tightening the bolt up.
Which then meant a lot of force required to get the hub side in.
This was then followed by looking at replacing the NSR brake hard line. Which when you've got a full flat floor, bracing and charge cooler lines going everywhere is a nightmare.
After removing the flat floor I have it up as a bad job and just ordered a new flaring took as I could find my old one and I'll make a repair to the original line!
Then had a drive over to Aron's to pick up a couple of spare rear wings and his engine compartment cover he'd had fabricated for the bulk head
Little bit of time on the car today.
Rear brake line repaired.
Idle sorted.
Had to slip on a an extra muffler to not annoy the neighbours too much.
Full coolant bleed next.
Then the VVt solenoid decided it didn't want to hold back any oil and started shitting it out everywhere.....
In was the intake solenoid which is a pain in the ass to get to, especially with a return fuel rail on.
But it's swapped and now holding it's oil in the engine!
Well she's out and running and boosting!
Wow just wow!
15psi on HX32 is waaayyy different to a TD04!
:) what a great noise keep going 8)
Had a couple of hours mapping the car this afternoon, low end stuff and mid range.
Had a play about afterwards, I'm going to need to add an external waste gate to my manifold and the internal gate on the Holset is struggling like mad even though I've ported the crap out of it.
I'll order the bit and get it welded up at work, thinking of just doing what the Honda boys do and just come off one manifold branch either cylinder 1 or 4, rather than trying to pillar drill into the center.
Never the less I managed to use by right foot as the boost controller, how does 18psi at 50% Throttle sound!
I've flattened the VVT Map to a flat 10* at the moment until I've got the boost under control and I've got lift turned off, turbo isn't as responsive as the TD04, but I've also not got VVT optimized or going WOT yet.
However, I can confirm that 18psi from this truck turbo at 50-60% WOT is on another level.
Another few hours on the road today after a big garage clear out.
This thing is an absolute animal, tucked away now for winter. I'm spinning wheels in 3rd and 4th.
Screenshot_20221204-154128~2.jpg
I'll sort the external wastegate and re-do the exhaust over winter for a more permanent solution now I know we're cooking on gas.
Wastegate and flanges arrived.
Took it into work today and got one of yh fabricators to weld it on. (Much easier than faffy about at home)
It's not in the ideal position to catch flow, but it should work fine and works in my engine bay
20221219_175857.jpg
20221219_175843.jpg
Out tonight for a few test runs, 450mm 38mm screamer pipe fitted.
No massive boost spike like everyone thought would happen.
Small amount of boost creep, but nothing in too worried about.
20221220_204157~2.jpg
19psi on the HX32 is very nice. 😁
We had reasonably dry roads this morning, so I went out for some testing and mapping.
I'd ported my external waste gate a little more, as I'd had it welded internally and externally, so there was still a bead of weld around the inside to work on.
It is an absolute animal, I need to play with the second cam and maybe bring it in a little earlier and optimise the VVt timing.
I'll let the below screen shot do the talking.
18.5psi peak boost pressure tailing off to 14.5psi at 7.7k.
20221224_143447.jpg
Very pleased with it.
Next time out I'll get the GoPro out and get some runs filmed.
Much more palatable on dry roads.
Rapid :)
Quote from: thetyrant on December 29, 2022, 14:53Rapid :)
This is just wastegate pressure too, can't wait to turn the boost up with the controller!
Quote from: Gaz2405 on December 29, 2022, 14:00Much more palatable on dry roads.
Properly quick that. Nice one.
Can you give me a list of stuff that you have done for your 2ZZ turbo build. Bought one a couple of years ago that is just sitting outside looking very sorry for itself. Issue with it is , excess crank pressure , appears that i might have had issues with cracking the oil control rings. Thinking of doing a build useing a spare engine that I have. Thinking darton sleeves with low comp pistons etc
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on December 30, 2022, 22:17Can you give me a list of stuff that you have done for your 2ZZ turbo build. Bought one a couple of years ago that is just sitting outside looking very sorry for itself. Issue with it is , excess crank pressure , appears that i might have had issues with cracking the oil control rings. Thinking of doing a build useing a spare engine that I have. Thinking darton sleeves with low comp pistons etc
I'll try might miss a few things.
Engine
8.8:1 Mahle Pistons
MWR Rods
MWR valve Springs
Seven Motorsport Stage 2 Cams
ARP Bolts
Elise Parts Sump
Holset HX32 Turbo
3" Exhaust
600hp+ rated charge cooler
ID1050x injectors
Radium return fuel rail
340l fuel pump
EMU Black ECU
If you do go sleeved, I've got some brand-new wiseco 8.8:1 pistons that are 82.5mm.
thanks for the info
New wideband sensor in today, old one had a hard time.
Also just about got cold start tune dialled and started working on the idle tune.
But I'll have to wait until it's cold again....to find out.
Settled with idle at 950rpm once warm.
So I've been chasing what I thought was wheel hop on the NSR for sometime now.
Re-bushed the whole rear end swapped cool overs over. Nothing.
Was the LSD on the way out?
Yesterday I pulled the rear engine mount above the gearbox, as it's.most likely the original one on around 100k.
20230101_114150.jpg
Once it was out I figured I'd fill it with tiger seal to check before buying an uprated one.
Test drive tonight and low and behold it's more or less gone.
Success!
Also chased down an annoying rattle/vibration I'd had for a while, I was certain it was exhaust related. I managed to get pulled over whilst it was presenting itself.
Head in the engine bay, touching everything that wasn't hit to try and find it, no joy.
Sat with my arms on the rear bumper support and I could feel it....it's got to be near the rear.
Found it! Rear crash bar (I'd only put two nuts back in to hold it! Easy fix!
Whilst out tonight and getting the fuelling sorted better I passed an MX5 going up a long dual carriageway pull.
I'd pulled into the next lay-by as I was checking over the log.
He pulled up alongside, apparently I'm spitting 1ft long flames out of the dump pipe at full chat.
So two things I need to sort.
1.Some external drive bys or gopro on the rear bumper.
2. Get the dump plumbed into the exhaust.
Next step is uprated poly engine mount in the short term l.
I want a gr yaris so bad but you are kinda inspiring me to get goin with my build and forget about another car for the time being. Great work and nice progress! I am happy that we are with you on your journey chasing big numbers.
I kept on cooking the OS engine mount on track. I got through 3 used ones and 2 new ones.
In the end, I replaced all 4 with new OEM mounts. No issues since.
They play a bigger role than we all may think.
Quote from: Alex Knight on January 3, 2023, 17:41I kept on cooking the OS engine mount on track. I got through 3 used ones and 2 new ones.
In the end, I replaced all 4 with new OEM mounts. No issues since.
They play a bigger role than we all may think.
Yeah seems that's the way.
So I've been chasing my tail on this bloody cold start idle issue, thinking I've got it sorted then not blah blah.
After trying again tonight and seeing in the log that the IACV was getting duty and power, but still wouldn't hold an idle within 2% throttle.
Going back through my old logs and old maps. ( That's did idle and cold start) what have I done, what have I changed?
Absolutely nothing, this thing should idle.
So I'm pinning my hopes in going back to basics.
Now this engine, with this throttle body and IACV never liked to idle before.
So I'm going to swap out the whole throttle body with one that I know has a working IACV.
Fingers crossed!
Annoying thing is, it idle's great after 50°c. But then I always favour using the ignition tables for idle control when warm.
So a little tinkering this week required.
Quote from: Anon on January 3, 2023, 22:31Those little IACV always seize up inside. There is 2 screws that hold it in - they are 5 point security torx but a hack saw will turn them into flat blades. Even the new throttle body, if I were you I would strip down the IAT coil block and the top cover, then spin it around drowned in WD40. They collect water and rust builds up on them.
I was giving the one on my mates Ignis turbo the same treatment 2 weeks ago, his would idle high, then not idle at all etc, I bet I've done over 20 of them. All the same design, think its a Denso thing.
I know, I'm kicking myself for not looking at it before I put it back in.
I even said to myself, "nah it should be fine".
It can only be that that's stopping it from idling from cold, I know the settings I have work in the map both on my car and another 2zx turbo for cold idle.
I need to upgrade the breather system/catch can anyway, so may as well have it to pieces all at the same time.
Pulled the throttle body tonight, IACV crusted up. Soaked in WD40, free'd up.
Going to let it soak overnight then put back in tomorrow.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on January 4, 2023, 19:15Pulled the throttle body tonight, IACV crusted up. Soaked in WD40, free'd up.
Going to let it soak overnight then put back in tomorrow.
Remember to lube it up again or you'll be back at square 1 soon. Been there. Done that
Quote from: shnazzle on January 4, 2023, 19:26Remember to lube it up again or you'll be back at square 1 soon. Been there. Done that
Aye just pulled it and dried off, relubed and back in and together now.
Actually not that bad of a job.
If this fix works I'll order a new IACV just so I know it's a new one in there.
Test ........in the IACV.
Started on the 1st turn and idled perfect.
What a bellend!
Lessons for us all, start with the basics!
Sorted now at least.
Quote from: Anon on January 5, 2023, 18:53I'm a bit perplexed on the ECU Master EMU idle settings for these Denso return springless pwm things... there are settings for frequency in hz etc, "3 wire PWM no spring", etc.
The one on my mates Ignis Turbo was setup by some "proper tuning place", but the coil block was unscrewed and the valve all seized up. It never idled consistently.
I've got it actually working, and it mostly hits its target idle pretty quickly, and catches before it stalls etc. But I just fudged about with stuff I don't know about... here is a picture of my settings:-
(https://i.ibb.co/tD96GZB/Whats-App-Image-2023-01-05-at-18-49-29.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tD96GZB)
Would you share your setting to see if I'm barking up the right tree with the config?
Yeah no worries, just on my phone at the moment, but will fire up the laptop tomorrow
Quote from: Anon on January 5, 2023, 18:53I'm a bit perplexed on the ECU Master EMU idle settings for these Denso return springless pwm things... there are settings for frequency in hz etc, "3 wire PWM no spring", etc.
The one on my mates Ignis Turbo was setup by some "proper tuning place", but the coil block was unscrewed and the valve all seized up. It never idled consistently.
I've got it actually working, and it mostly hits its target idle pretty quickly, and catches before it stalls etc. But I just fudged about with stuff I don't know about... here is a picture of my settings:-
(https://i.ibb.co/tD96GZB/Whats-App-Image-2023-01-05-at-18-49-29.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tD96GZB)
Would you share your setting to see if I'm barking up the right tree with the config?
Idle settings below Anon 👍
Screenshot_20230106-111927.jpg
Half an hour on the car this morning.
Replaced the PCV valve with an larger diameter 3/8 BSP, threaded barb.
Both breathers now run in AN10 hosing to a 1L catch can which is now filled with steel wool/Brillo pads to act as baffles.
I'll see how this set up goes, as I also have a 2l baffled catch can to swap in.
I've also got the 3 port Mac boost controller wired in temporary to see how we get on, plan is to keep the peak boost of 18.5 psi and not let it tail off to 15psi at redline.
Planning on doing this by using the boost controller in open loop mode in the ECU, by monitoring and adjusting the duty cycle required, as last time I had issues with the PID settings trying to get the closed loop working.
Was hoping to get our this weekend, but the weather wasn't playing ball.
Few engine bay pics below to give you a flavour.
20230108_201516.jpg
20230108_201543.jpg
20230108_201612.jpg
I'm also getting some time on a local rolling road to get some power runs in and do some tuning.
It'll be interesting to see how by "road tune" looks.
Went to take the car out today....
Didn't go to plan.
Once the revs are up to 3k, they won't drop without letting the clutch out in gear to try and stall it.
It's not a stuck throttle cable or throttle body, I've checked manually with the throttle body and the TPS is at zero.
My first thought is a knackered IACV after I've been tried reviving the old one.
I'm positive it's not a vacuum leak.
So I've ordered a new IACV to see if it fixes the problem.
One thing I thought it could have been, whilst out trying to fix it.
The only things I've done since last going out in it are:
1. 'sort' the IACV, which meant quite a bit of boost pipe work off.
2. Update the ECU's firmware.
Whilst out in the car I reverted the firmware back just incase.
Quote from: Anon on January 15, 2023, 19:42Can you slip the inlet pipe off the throttle body, then put your finger down the hole and block the IACV orifice on the side? If it stalls instantly you know there is too much air going round the idle control bypass route for whatever reason.
Yeah I might try that 👍
I've also got rid of my PCV for a non valved version, but cant think that would do anything.
Quick hour on the car tonight.
I've swapped my IACV, with a known working one from my 1zz which was in nearly new condition. (Different part numbers but they are interchangeable)
I've left the PCV as is, as I can't think how that would affect it as I've got them venting to atmosphere.
Inspected all the boost pipes and reconnected.
Also found another cause of a rattle, exhaust clamp just catching in the crash bar.
Won't know if it's got it until a test drive.
Sooo....tried the new IACV from my 1zz.
Jobs fxcked still not happening.
So I made the mistake of ordering an eBay one.
Fitted that last night, won't start without the throttle and dies.
So out into the spare parts cupboard I go.
20221122_192108.jpg
Now I know this is a fully working 2zz throttle body so I'll swap the whole fecking thing!
We've got dry roads this weekend and I want to get out and turn the boost up!
I admire your dedication! You will have tons of spares after than :))
New throttle body on....
Same symptoms.
Sod it I'll let it warm up and then at least go out for a thrash for an hour or two.
Jesus this thing is fast!
But I was starting to stall at junctions.
After playing with the PID settings on the idle control I was having no luck.
Queue pouring over the internet for answers.
A lot of answers were pointing towards the throttle cable, now mine has a tiny, tiny bit of slack. Tps shows 0% with nothing on it.
So rather than scrape my knuckles trying to get somewhere I can't I put a 3mm zip tie around the throttle cable at the pedal.
Left her 4 hours to cool down.
Started on the button, Tps sees 1%, but the IACV and ignition idle tables can bring the idle right down, quick test drive no stalling at junctions and perfect idle.
If it's been the cable all along......insert face palm.
Also had a small oil weep from the rocker cover so new gasket and stuck the carbon dipped cam cover back on.
Next up tomorrow, new power steering lines.
Wife's away this weekend, so got bored at 11pm.
Into the garage to fit new power steering lines.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on February 5, 2023, 00:36Wife's away this weekend, so got bored at 11pm.
Into the garage to fit new power steering lines.
quick while she is away anything needs cleaning in the dishwasher or washing machine so she will not no .act fast :)) :))
Quote from: puma2 on February 5, 2023, 09:58Quote from: Gaz2405 on February 5, 2023, 00:36Wife's away this weekend, so got bored at 11pm.
Into the garage to fit new power steering lines.
quick while she is away anything needs cleaning in the dishwasher or washing machine so she will not no .act fast :)) :))
Oh we're on a level on that.
If she gets home and the dishwasher has been emptied and put away, she knows car parts have been in there.
Cam cover,chain cover, inlet manifold, rear arms, they've all been in. 😂
Out for some testing and mapping today.
Still struggling with that oil leak, I'll get under the car now and have a poke around, it's definitely coming from around the VVt solenoid area,which is obviously Lian to get to see properly.
Anyway. Great day mapping regardless.disnt play with boost control, just got my afr's dialled in what were working with at the moment.
But I do need to sort it, as I've got peak boost pressure of 19.5psi now the sprig has settled, tailing off to 15psi, I'd like to keep the boost the same throughout.
Anyway onto testing, didn't want to do any launches for feat I'd try gearbox, but did do 5 or 6 60 - 100 runs.
Best result was a 5.5, but generally around the 6 second mark. So pretty eased with that, shame I don't have data to compare my old builds to.
So now back into the overalls to look for this bloody leak!
You don't think you've stripped the threads on the vvt filter housing do you? Speaking from experience it's easily done and will blow past the threads if you have.
Quote from: Call the midlife! on February 5, 2023, 16:13You don't think you've stripped the threads on the vvt filter housing do you? Speaking from experience it's easily done and will blow past the threads if you have.
I don't think so, but it maybe coming past the o ring.
Found a few things.
1. It's awkward AF putting the cam cover back in with a return fuel rail as it fouls the crank case breather hard pipe when doing the nut up, so you have to do the nut up (with a modified spanner) then slide the cam cover into position.
2. Bottom crank case breather hard pipe, had spun one but loose out of three so potentially coming from there too.
3. Evidence of oil higher up the back of the block as it's forming n the bottom of the inlet manifold.
So plan is, order the BOE block of plates to eliminate that potential zone and at the same time get a new VVt actuator as I had to be quite forceful getting this one to fit with the hard pipe in situ.
I never got that far first time around with mine but I'll be finding out when I try again with the new car. 😂
Little bit more tinkering tonight.
Fuel pump had been starting to make quite a racket,it was a Kenao 340l. So swapped it out for a walbro 255l, quick swap 30 mins and done.
Well....I thought my cold start issues had gone.
It's still not right, still needs throttle for the first couple of minutes.
Think I'm going to play with the throttle plate screw next to try and fudge it that way.
I've read online that disconnecting the battery can help the IACV to forget and then learn the idle again. Not sure if that will work with a stand alone ECU.
Anyway onto boost, boost controller now hooked up and working a full 21 psi until redline now.
I can confirm this thing is bonkers at that sort of boost.
Quote from: Anon on February 11, 2023, 22:12I'm not sure how to get EMU to control this type of idle air valve correctly, they seem to offer little in the way of documentation for it.
On the screen shot you sent a while back you have it set for 200hz pwm using Hbridge1B. Also you have the TPS set to 1% idle on, 2% idle off.... I've gone wider so the idle strategy kicks in below 5% instead to try to be more forgiving - I still don't have it working correctly mind.
Toyota wire it to have 12v to one pin, gnd to the other, then I think the ECU emits a PWM waveform to flutter the rotor inside. This page details their operation really well.
https://alflash.com.ua/idlet.htm
That video isn't for the EMU, but they at least talk about this type of valve although it is the dual driver type, where I think 1zz uses the single driver type. https://youtu.be/8odrvOQqZ-U?t=274
I was thinking of plugging a spare IACV into the harness and watch the valve move to see if its even controlling it properly. Then getting the scope out on a stock OEM car to watch the waveform.
Thanks for the info yes it uses PID algorithm to control the valve.
I've changed the settings to activate idle at 5% tps now.
It's set to open 100% for cranking and does as it fires up on the key but then dies.
The throttle plate on the 2zz is meant to be fully closed for idle with only the IACV letting air through.
However, after pouring over threads on Spyder chat and new Celica, I've adjusted the throttle plate stop to see the closed position at 1% tps.
I can then set the idle strategy using the IACV and the ignition control.
I'll go back through my old maps on my 1zz and see if I've completely missed something idle strategy wise. But I don't think I have I'm pretty sure this is a mechanical issue.
I'll be trying the above on the car later today and taking out my first passenger for their reaction.
I've also had no change in the noisy fuel pump, however after soke googling, it seems that some return line systems can be noisy at idle with a metallic sounding noise.
Which is often related to the actual fuel lines, so I might look at turning my fuel pressure down, I'm set at 55psi rather than 43.5psi.
I'll also look at changing our the return line for a non braided line and try and clip to the bulk head better.
Quote from: Anon on February 12, 2023, 08:35With all throttle bodies like this as I've taken quite alot of them apart and then reassembled and set them back up to work eventually OK; you set up the stop screw so you can just see the finest crescent of light over and under the butterfly. You have to keep slapping them closed and open over and over, then look up at the light, adjust the screw and lock nut. It's quite a fine line to find.
If it is to closed you find the throttle jams/sticks under vacuum conditions and you have to press the pedal pretty hard to overcome the jam. The little gap needs to be small enough so it won't quite idle nicely on that air gap... maybe only supplying 50% of the required air at idle. But enough to try to stop it from stalling out quickly.
Yeah that's what I've done, took my two spare ones and compared them, both were fully shut.
So I've adjusted to have a small crescent of light coming through.
I've got it down to about 10 minutes now to remove all intercooler pipe work and have the throttle body removed!
Idle and cold start sorted. Boom.
Oil leak still apparent!
Blanking plates should be here soon, I'll order a new cam cover gasket too and new VVt solenoid just to make sure.
Hopefully that will sort it.
Haven't touched the car for ages, I was waiting for some blanking plates to arrive.
Still not here....so I made my own out of some 4mm stainless plate I had.
Anyway, blanking plates fitted along with new cam cover gasket.
So cold start and idle are now officially sorted.
It was time to test the blanking plates and new cam cover gasket.
I'm running both of my cam breathers into a catch can so I was nervous of not having enough breathing with the main crank case breather blocked off.
Test drive tonight, hitting allllll of the boost 22psi to redline now at 8350rpm, this thing is naughty!
Back in after an hours blast, oil leak seems to have now gone.
I also found the cause of my annoying rattle I couldn't trace down that was near the fuel tank, I thought it was perhaps fuel lines and I've also swapped the fuel pump out too.
Turns out it was a loose rear engine mount where it mounts to the chassis, I'd loosened them to get the mount fitted and then now done them back up, so it was loose enough to just cause a rattle at a certain rpm.
It's always the simple things!
So this weekend, looks like I'll sort a DIY alignment and then look to get to a rolling road soon to see some numbers.
Threw a bucket of water over it ready for some B blasting tomorrow.
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Great couple of days out and about in the car.
Decided to get the boost controller set up "properly" as well.
I'd been bodging the springs in the waste gate to get the boost pressure I required.
So essentially just had high boost.
So got my Mac 3 port out and wired it in permanently.
Changed the waste gate spring for a 12 psi one.
Opened up, open loop strategy and away we went.
Soooo simple to use on the emu black, within 5 or 6 pulls I was at 22psi and now have high and low boost settings.
I'll wire in a switch to the dashboard to give the option to run both tunes.
I'll insert a few pulls in a video below 💪👍
Couldn't help myself, just been out for another 2 hours in it.
VVti is pretty much there now and lift point dropped to 5200 seems to be the sweet spot, added some timing.(noticeable difference) car is wanting to lift the front now.
A few 60-100 test....two best runs 3.75 and 3.8 most under 4.5 seconds.
I'd say we're cooking on gas or at least optimax!
Awesome progress, when are you going to dyno it?
Quote from: Nvy on April 10, 2023, 05:14Awesome progress, when are you going to dyno it?
I'm forever "fettling" with it, but do need to book it in soon. Even if it's just a quick power run to see how the curve is looking, I can then use that to make any adjustments.
I have actually thought of hiring a Dyno for half a day and actually do some tuning on the Dyno whilst I'm there.
Seeing as the weather isn't playing ball today decided to get under the car and give it an inspection.
Whilst I thought I'd got rid of my oil leak, it's still there but I've got rid of the cam cover leak.
Turns out I've got a hair line crack on my Elise Parts sump. Right behind where the oil filter is so difficult to see to start with, turns out it runs the all the way to the gear box!!
I've been mega lucky here spotting this.
After a bit if research turna out I'm not alone in these things cracking.
I've drained the oil for now and will remove the sump later on.
I'll either have it welded or replace, but cant stomach dropping £500 on another sumo, so may go back to a 1zz sump.
I doubt EP will do me a warranty as I've modified the oil return and plus it's a few years old now.
Would you like to see if we can get a discount on buying two morosos?
Quote from: jvanzyl on April 10, 2023, 15:58Would you like to see if we can get a discount on buying two morosos?
I'm just delving into ways to repair this one at the moment, with reliable results.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on April 10, 2023, 17:19I'm just delving into ways to repair this one at the moment, with reliable results.
This forum really needs a "dislike" button... >:D
Quote from: jvanzyl on April 10, 2023, 17:26This forum really needs a "dislike" button... >:D
You know how bodgy I am it's JB weld or aluminium brazing rods written all over it...... :))
I've actually used the rods before with some success.
Hmmm all might not be as I first thought.
The sump is off and currently in the parts washer (dishwasher).... ;D
On 1st inspection it doesn't seem like the crack is actually a crack....
The sump is fully welded internally and it looks fine....
However, the dirko sealant peeled off the sump super easy, I wonder if the sealant was off or if I got some contaminant on it proper to application.
The sump also came off the car easier than usual, sinik thinking this maybe my cause of the oil weep.
Once it's out of the *parts washer* I'll inspect further.
And in the meantime get some research done into the best sump sealer to use.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on April 10, 2023, 21:00Hmmm all might not be as I first thought.
The sump is off and currently in the parts washer (dishwasher).... ;D
On 1st inspection it doesn't seem like the crack is actually a crack....
The sump is fully welded internally and it looks fine....
However, the dirko sealant peeled off the sump super easy, I wonder if the sealant was off or if I got some contaminant on it proper to application.
The sump also came off the car easier than usual, sinik thinking this maybe my cause of the oil weep.
Once it's out of the *parts washer* I'll inspect further.
And in the meantime get some research done into the best sump sealer to use.
I used the blue hylomar they supplied with mine and found the same as you, practically fell off once I'd undone the screws.
It does say that hylomar is a "non-curing/hardening" sealant though.
Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 10, 2023, 21:04I used the blue hylomar they supplied with mine and found the same as you, practically fell off once I'd undone the screws.
It does say that hylomar is a "non-curing/hardening" sealant though.
Yeah I want something that'll hold the sump without the bolts in place!
Quote from: Gaz2405 on April 10, 2023, 21:06Yeah I want something that'll hold the sump without the bolts in place!
I won't be using the hylomar again after seeing the state of it when I took the pan off, I'm not confident it had sealed around the screws either.
Hondabond, no question.
It's not cheap, but it's bloody good.
I've never had/seen a sump sealed with Hondabond leak.
You can get it here (https://www.tegiwaimports.com/hondabond-ht-honda-engine-gasket-sealer-sealant.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw586hBhBrEiwAQYEnHW15iIwm4j7KJIGqwnP-7ttvGwrcdq0g5VbjlW43R1oWOjC520V7cBoC_6wQAvD_BwE).
Sooo sump back on with Hondabond.
Some serious testing over the weekend, with a good solid 3 hours mapping and doing pulls.
I've settled on the boost where it is and left the timing, just playing with lift and VVt maps.
I did have the tiniest of drip of oil under the car a day after. (It sits on galvanised steel sheets in the garage so spillages are easy to spot)
Upon further inspection I think it is the residual oil coming down the block.
It looks like it's from an old cam cover gasket leak and is making its way down the back end of the block around the inlet manifold.
I've also spotted a slight weep from the oil return at the turbo, so I've ordered a new gasket for that too.
As a precaution I redid the crank case block off plate with hondabond to make sure.
I'll let it cure overnight then hopefully turbo oil return gasket will be here and I can fill her back up again.
Still leaking.......🤦
Last try dipstick......o ring.
Holset oil drain gasket also still weeping.
I'm going to look to see if someone does gasket with an inbuilt O ring.
Hope you get it sorted, pesky leaks! i guess if its just small drip after a hard days thrashing it must be very small and hard to spot, could try the old talc powder on areas suspected see if it makes it easier to spot.
Yeah I know, it's running so well. Just this leak seems that be spoiling it.
This is how much was left in the garage floor tonight after sitting all day.
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The annoying thing is it just cover the oil pan in a thin film.
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And my minor weep at the turbo.
New rear arms also arrived.
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I've been under the car tonight, clean ed around the dipstick as much as I can and blathered it in hondabond....fingers crossed.
For a street car it's fine, but I wouldn't want to track it or Dyno it like this knowingly.
What brand are the arms please? They look like the ones I was looking at as they're way cheaper than a set of standard Toyota ones and I only want the toe control ones anyway (the ones with the taper bush, I'm sure they're the toe ones...)
The arms were a group buy on the owners club. Unsure of make.
Still struggling with an oil weep, but haven't been out in it for a while.
Some spannering tonight changing out the catch can for a proper 2 litre jobby that's baffled.
If I get some time at the weekend the bay needs a tidy up and wiring ticking away
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I think.....think .....my oil leak is fixed...
Been out for an hour's thrash tonight and the oil pan is bine dry.
Looks like oil leak is sorted! Woo hoo!
I celebrated by turning the boost upto 26psi....wow just wow!
Blew a boost pipe off and put a hole in one of the blanking bungs.
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Undeterred, I knew I had a spare in the garage, new one on and back out.
I've also managed to get my spool quicker with the VVt map.
4th gear sees 20+psi by under 4k.
I'm now not feeling like I have to rev it out to the redline and can change gear earlier and still pulls like a train. Much more torques!
VE table is now well over 200% to keep the AFR's in the 11.5 range.
Looking through my logs from last night...
Seems I'm running out of injector.....all 1050cc of it!
Log Snip.jpg
I'm currently running 50psi fuel rail pressure, on a return system.
So I'll bump that up to try and give me some headroom. A quick check on the Injector Dynamic site suggests 70psi.
The only other thing I could think of that maybe, maybe caused this was low fuel (below 1/4 tank) and possibly the start of fuel starvation and losing some pressure.
But pleased at how well the AFR track target without using wideband feedback, that's all in the table 1 and table 2 fuel map.
Arent you worried about your tranny?
Quote from: Nvy on May 4, 2023, 08:23Arent you worried about your tranny?
It's collateral damage if it goes.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on May 4, 2023, 08:38It's collateral damage if it goes.
:)) 30 seconds on, I'm still laughing.
Turns out upping the fuel pressure only helps a little bit.
Still at 100% duty cycle and clipping 13 AFR after 6.5k.
Back to the drawing board.
One thing is for sure the boost isn't getting turned down.
I've put a 6k rev limiter on it at the moment.
New fuel pump ordered, seems I'm not out of injector but out of fuel pressure.
450l walbro on its way.
I should really get a fuel pressure sensor added to.
Chucked in my old Kemso 340l pump to t st the theory.
Was able to take fuel pressure upto 70psi and eradicated the Injector issue.
30mins later pump failed to start.
Obviously want happy sat at 70psi.
Old walbro back in for now and running again. Turned lift off until the new one arrives, still silly fast.
Went for a drive this afternoon, rain stopped play, so had a play with the launch control settings.
Needed more flames......
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That'll do!
:) now that picture blends nicely in with sky 8)
i like that :) :)
Test run of a GT Wing I've had in the garage for a few years...
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Chassis or body mount?
Quote from: Alex Knight on May 11, 2023, 23:20Chassis or body mount?
Just body for the time being to see if I like the look.
Plan is then to chassis mount it, (or a similar size/style wing)
Couple of little bits, got let down in the first fuel pump I ordered, was showing in stock and then was in a 4-6 week lead time once I'd ordered.
So found a Sytec one at demon tweaks that will do the job, that came today but I'll fit it next week.
Currently enjoying the car just on the small cam with a rev limit of 7.5k.
Pulled my plugs last night as I was having a misfire around 7k under high load.
I was still using BKR6E's gapped to .8mm.
Screenshot_20230516-201622.jpg
I wasnt too concerned on the slight fouling as I knew I'd been running rich, main thing was all looked the same, indicating all cylinders are under same conditions etc.
I had some BKR7's as spares which are a step cooler, so I gapped these to .7mm and hey presto misfire has gone.
One thing I did last night which had been annoying me for a while was wind the throttle stopper back half turn, as I had 2% tps at idle l. This is from when I was having my IACV and idling issues.
I'd been masking it by controlling the idle with the ignition rather than the IACV, which was resulting in a poor vacuum reading.
Adjusted to 1% tps and fuelling sorted, I now have a nice low idle, pulling a much stronger vacuum and not relying on ignition control to manage the idle.
Spent this evening then out sorting the low and mid range fuelling. Whilst it was fine where is was for driveability, it was on the rich side, so a few hours driving and editing and smoothing the map worked a treat.
I got brave tonight I did some launch control launches and some GPS 1/4 mile timing.
1st attempt, way too much wheel spin but an 11.s, slightly uphill.
2nd attempt, much better launch, flatter road. 10.4s.
Even though, it's only GPs timing and it's all to be taken with a rather large pinch of salt, I'm really pleased with how well it's going.
Time to get a draggy I think!
Still unsure about the wing, I think it needs more front aero to make the look.
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Might looks at removable front and rear extreme aero for track and smoother sleek for road driving.
If those figures are close to accurate, that's crazy fast. Amazing job, well done.
Wing doesn't look right IMHO. Car looks aesthetically unbalanced.
Quote from: Alex Knight on May 18, 2023, 19:56If those figures are close to accurate, that's crazy fast. Amazing job, well done.
Wing doesn't look right IMHO. Car looks aesthetically unbalanced.
Yeah I get you on the wing, I'm just not feeling it.
I'd like something similar to the APR wing with wider feet but I'm not dropping a grand on a wing!
BGW only really works on a widebody/actual race car I think.
TRD wing is nice though.
Yeah, I'm with you on that.
I like the TRD, but also like the smooth/slippery look of the ducktail.
I've wondered if you could take a duck tail and add an adjustable large carbon fibre gurney flap to the top or bottom surface. My friend did hill climb the championship winning Lateral Performance Impreza and it never used a big wing only a ducktail with a shaped gurney flap.
Quote from: Mark A on May 19, 2023, 12:12I've wondered if you could take a duck tail and add an adjustable large carbon fibre gurney flap to the top or bottom surface. My friend did hill climb the championship winning Lateral Performance Impreza and it never used a big wing only a ducktail with a shaped gurney flap.
Oooooohh carbon slip on gurney
BGW now off.
Out this evening after work.
Tweaked launch control and about 5 more 1/4 mile launches.
All between 10.4 and 11.2.
Pretty confident now it's doing those times, so chuffed to bits with it.
Now to get the rear diffuser back on and flat floor.
Then it's big brake kit fitting time.
Which means 16's upfront.
Had an absolute nightmare with the car today.
Swapped out the fuel pump, a 340l AEM one arrived instead of the Sytec, but makes no difference.
It need some slight shaving to make fit, couple of mm if that.
That was all fitted last night, so plan was this morning after doing jobs, take the car out and adjust the fuel mao to suit the new pump, then get the big cam sorted.
But it just wasn't having it, I was running it at the same pressure I had the old one, but the fuelling was way out. Way, way too lean it just wasn't having it.
First I thought maybe they've supplied the wrong pump and it's not a 340l. Went back, checked yeo 340l, some more head scratching later, has the o ring not sealed properly etc.
Back out it came, and back together again. Fuel pump swaps in 5 minutes now!
It appeared to have sorted the issue, where I was using early 100% DC on the injectors I was back down to 70%ish for the same target afr.
But then a few pulls later the AFR's go into the 13's again.
Now I can normally tell from the exhaust note and how well it pulls if it's leaving out. But it just felt the same.
Has my wideband given you the ghost??
I put my old pump back in, and reloaded the map it had on before I started faffing this morning. Now this was running leaner than usual too! Only by half an AFR point, but I knew exactly where that fuel mao used to get me.
Anyway, fuel pump back out again, inspect the wiring, and all bungs.
Bingo, the rubber bung I was using the blank the factory regulator had sprung a leak.
Had a same size bung laying around spare, so fitted that and fires her up again.
By this time is was 8pm and I'd already mowed the lawn and CBA going back out again.
I ordered another wideband sensor just to make sure.
Might have a drive out tomorrow, to see if it's sorted.
Bloody cars!
Confirmed tonight.
Knackered o2 sensor.
Starts off reading accurately, then after two three pulls reads constant 14.4-8.
Highlighted all the fuelling cells at idle and added enough fuel until it stalled. No change.
I'll swap in the new one when it arrives tomorrow hopefully.
Plus side is on the few pulls I did do, we were using a lot less injector DC than beforehand, so seems like pump is sorted too.
New wide band sensor arrived.
Quick change out and test and all is good!
Decided that whilst it was waiting for a new sensor to make a start on swapping over my charge cool radiator. I've had a Cinquecento radiator in there doing the job, but I'd had a larger universal rad sitting in the garage for over 2 years now so decided to start swapping.
Which whilst the bumpers off I may as well sort a small front splitter from 15mm ply....
Pics soon.
Well isn't making a functional splitter a pain in the arse!
Currently I have a full flat floor under the car.
The front section is bolted in pace using the front subframe bolt holes and follows the curve of it. So it curve slightly up towards the front bumper.
Now I already scrape the car on some sections of bumpy roads as can be seen from the scrape marks.
So I removed the front section of flat floor and looked at having the splitter go in between the subframe stays.
I think I need to notch it more around the subframe so all the bolts clear
Either that or it's getting scrapped.
Other option is to just have a shorter splitter that only goes under the car about 40cm and put my flat floor back in.
Flat floor addition!
I've added my version of a functional splitter today, 15mm ply, bolted to the chassis and can take my 12st standing on it.
Flat floor is 2mm galvanized sheet, so is heavy, think it work it out at 15-18kg, but that means it's super robust and the qeigtia low down.
It's saved me when I hit some oil at Blyton and spun up and over the curb, which would have ripped my braces clean off.
It also acts as another form of bracing as it's bolted through the chassis rails.
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Quote from: Gaz2405 on May 24, 2023, 22:57New wide band sensor arrived.
Quick change out and test and all is good!
Decided that whilst it was waiting for a new sensor to make a start on swapping over my charge cool radiator. I've had a Cinquecento radiator in there doing the job, but I'd had a larger universal rad sitting in the garage for over 2 years now so decided to start swapping.
Which whilst the bumpers off I may as well sort a small front splitter from 15mm ply....
Pics soon.
Would it be possible to share some pics of how you had the Cinquecento radiator mounted? I'm going to be doing that for mine.
Flat floor is mega.
Would you be open to sharing the templates?
Chocks needed to get out of the garage now.
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Splitter testing today, even though I know it holds my weight, I'm still nervous 😂
Quote from: Alex Knight on May 27, 2023, 12:12Flat floor is mega.
Would you be open to sharing the templates?
Yeah no problem, next time I'm underneath I'll grab the dimensions.
Testing not going so well.....think the gearbox has shat itself.
Awaiting recovery.
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Limped it home.
3rd gear has left the chat. ;D
Quote from: Gaz2405 on May 29, 2023, 13:14Limped it home.
3rd gear has left the chat. ;D
ah no man.. sorry to hear that.
You just going to source another stocks one or go for something fancy?
Quote from: Gaz2405 on May 29, 2023, 13:14Limped it home.
3rd gear has left the chat. ;D
You know it was only a matter of when 😂
Quote from: jvanzyl on May 29, 2023, 17:49ah no man.. sorry to hear that.
You just going to source another stocks one or go for something fancy?
I've currently gone down a rabbit hole researching the VW 02M gear boxes.
Thinking of using, the zurawski Motorsport driveshafts and linkage adapter, after making a bell housing adapter.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on May 29, 2023, 09:47Yeah no problem, next time I'm underneath I'll grab the dimensions.
Mega, thanks so much.
So I have a few options open to me in the gearbox side.
Now I want it to be as plug and play as possible, as I still want to get some tracks days in this year.
1. I've got the potential of a UK owned E153 conversion kit, with or without a rogue rebuilt E153. Sourcing an E153 isn't an issue at the moment.
2. Jubu gears, at £1k plus labour(although I'd most likely don't myself)
3. Chuck in another standard box and cross my fingers. Although they seem to have jumped in price recently.
4. 02M/Q gearbox from VAG, using the mount and drive shafts from zurawski Motorsport, but would require a custom clutch disc or find one that works with my current set up.
I'm currently torn between option 1 and 4, I need to contact another guy in the UK who is using an E153 on a 2zz turbo to see what his opinion of the ratios are.
Either way car is getting sorned tonight!
Deal is done.
Collecting an E153 Box and conversion kit, its an early conversion kit never fitted so will need some modification to make work, as the brackets just came as laser cut steel to be tacked and welded once in situ.
It doesn't have the 1000hp rated axles just some standard MR2 turbo jobbies, so need to look into converting the outers or using different hubs.
Box has just been rebuilt by Rogue.
But we have a solution!
Could VAG DSG have been a (costlier) option?
Quote from: Alex Knight on May 31, 2023, 15:57Could VAG DSG have been a (costlier) option?
I had quoted up two ways of doing it.
1. There's a guy on Facebook fro SA that does them. £1950+ an engine for him to use, plus the Gearbox, driveshafts etc.
2. Use the Zurawski motor sport mounts and drive shafts. Waiting for a price on the mounts, but the driveshafts are £800, plus a box and getting it working and a bell housing adapter.
I'd this E153 hadn't come up at ok money, I'd have probably gone down the zurawski Motorsport route using an 02M box first then sorting a DQ box afterwards.
But both of these options still require a differential.
Hope you like the ratios dead short from memory worse than my mk2 na box on my v6.
That had an extended 5th for motorway cruise.
Quote from: 1979scotte on May 31, 2023, 19:05Hope you like the ratios dead short from memory worse than my mk2 na box on my v6.
That had an extended 5th for motorway cruise.
From what I can see the ratios will be shorter than what I've currently got but longer than a 2zz box.
At 8250rpm should be:
1st 41mph
2nd 69mph
3rd 105mph
4th 144mph
5th 181mph
I'm not too concerned.
So back from picking my bits up, nice 400 mile round trip.
Box is in cracking condition, rebuilt by Rogue a few years ago and never fitted.
Been rebuilt with a TRD LSD too.
The conversion kit itself, is wait for it......
A Roque Motorsport kit, very few were ever made.
Coms with laser cut mounts that need welding up.
Also comes with a twin disk clutch for mega power.
Bell housing adapter is stainless and looks a great piece of kit.
Two very good condition MR2 turbo shafts, and apparently the st185 CV outers fit roadster hubs.
I'll have to fab up the linkage's but that shouldn't be too hard.
A little bit more parts collecting and ordering over the weekend.
5 speed selector shaft from JSpec.
Also some more info on the twin disc clutch, its the Xtreme Twin disc for the MR2 turbo and has a torque rating of wait for it............................885ft/lbs!
Think we'll be ok with this one!
Started the process of doing the gearbox tonight.
Got the car in 4 jack stands in the garage.
Rear wheels off, hub nut off, oil drained, drain plug back in, OS arms off, caliper tied up out of the way.
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Fluids a lovely colour with plenty of metal in it!
Just waiting for an engine stay bar to arrive to take the weight of the engine, rather than my ghetto set up of a ratchet strap around the strut brace.
This E153 deserves to be installed with at least some precision!
Grabbed half an hour last night, NS hub off.
Drive shaft out, NS drive shaft tonight.
Currently looking at trans cooler set ups and thinking about this one.
Screenshot_20230608-101846~2.jpg
Before I fit and weld up the bracket and bell housing adapter I may get a few copies made if there's some interest?
What was included with the kit from Rogue?
Quote from: Nvy on June 8, 2023, 11:25What was included with the kit from Rogue?
3 engine mounts, bell housing adapter and custom flywheel.
Gear selector mechanism looks easy to copy from the MWR set up.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on June 8, 2023, 11:363 engine mounts, bell housing adapter and custom flywheel.
Gear selector mechanism looks easy to copy from the MWR set up.
If you can share any pricing in a PM would be great :)
Quote from: Nvy on June 8, 2023, 17:19If you can share any pricing in a PM would be great :)
I'll get some prices from a fab shop.
So all drives shaft out now, engine support beam is here too.
Got my assortment of parts out and gave them a once over.
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Box is a big beggar and was a bugger lifting out of the boot in flip flops 😂
Need some new outer CV's apparently st185 fit the roadster hub.
But apart from that we're nearly there fe more buys to collect, but I'll most likely do a dry run of the fitting the box first and go from there.
When you know you've got an MR2 engine hoarding problem!
3x1zz 2x2zz's
Forgot I had a spare 2zz that was stripped down, made it miles easier to try the E153 bell housing adapter.
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Engine and Gearbox in holy matrimony.
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I've just used whatever engine to trans bolts I had knocking around to test the theory.
Adapter plate bolts to the gearbox first and then it gets offered up.
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Look at the lovely precision machining around the transfer case cover.
Also got the GT4 shifter mechanism swapped out for a 5 speed jobby.
I'd you look closely at the block you can spot the splits)cracks between the cylinders.
Next task is to measure and tot up the correct bolts I need to do the do properly
And for all their asking about weight.
59.3kg
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Plus probably another 2-5kg for the bigger axles.
Old gearbox out tonight.
Made it hard for myself by not removing any boost pipework, and also didn't remove the top gearbox mount I just slipped the long bolt out.
Just makes it tighter than it should be.
Anyway felt alive after wrestling it off my chest!
Weighed it...
20230612_204821.jpg
43.9kg with the top mount still on.
So only a 15kg penalty in weight terms I don't think that's too bad.
Took the end cap off the gearbox and found 5-19 bits of third gear in there.
Then realised I didn't have a bearing puller to get the rest of the box apart.
All in all a good couple of hours getting filthy!
Adapter plate in CAD.....flywheel next.
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Any chance you can share these files if you cant find someone to do it for cheap? I can ask the local guys to do these for anybody from the forum and I hope we can stay under 1000 quids for both. Also do you know if e351 has the same bolt pattern? I am looking at it as I want "conservative" 350-400 hp :)
Yeah no probs, E351 had a different bolt pattern apparently.
I am test fitting my turbo and it seems that it is where yours is. Do you have pics of your oil return?
Quote from: Nvy on June 13, 2023, 17:16I am test fitting my turbo and it seems that it is where yours is. Do you have pics of your oil return?
I'll grab some, but pretty straightforward really.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on June 13, 2023, 17:19I'll grab some, but pretty straightforward really.
Yeah but with the oem sump it looks a bit far from the place where TTE kit suggest to drill.
I drilled the sump as high up as I could get it.
Quote from: Nvy on June 13, 2023, 17:16I am test fitting my turbo and it seems that it is where yours is. Do you have pics of your oil return?
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Dodgy sump photo, drive shaft runs above the curve. Sealant on th sump is a safety precaution as it's a threaded sump fitting.
So the conversion took a big step forward today.
I ordered a Celica ST185 outer CV.
I can confirm it fits both the turbo driveshaft and indeed the Roadster hub!
Boom.
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Why MWR don't tell people this I'll never know, I'd have gone for an E153 kit ages ago if I knew I could use standard turbo driveshafts and different CV joints and all I had to do was worry about the mounts.
As they sell a bell housing plate and flywheel for under $1000.
Bonkers.
Anyway I'll order another outer CV now I know they work.
Taken a few more bits off my C66 like bungs and reverse sensor etc for the E153 and added some AN fittings for the oil cooler.
Just waiting on a set of bolts then it's show time!
I also think I've found an easy way of butchering to two different bearing carriers to make them work as one.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on June 13, 2023, 19:0720230613_183844.jpg
Dodgy sump photo, drive shaft runs above the curve. Sealant on th sump is a safety precaution as it's a threaded sump fitting.
I think the situation looks a lot like mine. The oil drain is about 17 cm away from the block and about 12 above the shaft. I think its going to work, what are your thoughts?
Quote from: Gaz2405 on June 13, 2023, 19:13So the conversion took a big step forward today.
I ordered a Celica ST185 outer CV.
I can confirm it fits both the turbo driveshaft and indeed the Roadster hub!
Boom.
20230613_183446.jpg
Why MWR don't tell people this I'll never know, I'd have gone for an E153 kit ages ago if I knew I could use standard turbo driveshafts and different CV joints and all I had to do was worry about the mounts.
As they sell a bell housing plate and flywheel for under $1000.
Bonkers.
Anyway I'll order another outer CV now I know they work.
Taken a few more bits off my C66 like bungs and reverse sensor etc for the E153 and added some AN fittings for the oil cooler.
Just waiting on a set of bolts then it's show time!
I also think I've found an easy way of butchering to two different bearing carriers to make them work as one.
Well done, ill look into e351 after my box is danzo. With the template above I can measure things and line up bolt holes easy.
Waiting for parts now so getting the rest of the mounts drawn up.
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Bolts got delivered today.
So I've now got all brand new 10.9 Allen head cap bolts for the engine to trans and adapter.
Mix of M12 and M10 1.25 thread from 25mm to 50mm in length.
Back home all bolted up nicely apart from one bolt that's been a bit of a bugger, it's an M10 that a could redrill and tap to M12 but we'll see.
As part of the conversion you've got to use a 5 speed shifter and MWR sell a bracket in their kit.
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So I got on with bodging my own.
Cardboard aided Design to test the theory, then I get it cut and welded.
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Following on from a comment from Paul Woods on the Facebook group about the driveshafts needing a spacer where it goes into the hub using the st185 CV joint.
I set about having a good look and measure tonight.
I think I noticed straight away was the abs ring being bigger on the ST185 and not being anywhere near the pick up, infact it wouldn't even seat properly.
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By a stroke of luck the CV's are near identical in terms of profile.
I wonder if my old abs ring will fit....
A few little taps to get it off, some heat to expand it....
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And boom there we go, I also measured the both CV's and I cannot see where a 4mm spacer might be required. They line up exactly the same.
Maybe th older st185 didn't share the same out she'll as the new ones.
Anyway both drivershafts now made up and a sheet of 4mm steel to make my bracket for the cables.
I also took a few measurements with th gearbox mounted to by spare block and it doesn't look like I'm going to need to cut the subframe.
I do think this is only a V6 issue and not e153 on a 1/2zz.
No pictures today, but another milestone.
Carrier bearing bracket made.
Used the original 2zz item and cut it down flat, cut the end of the turbo one and welded them together.
Then spent the r at od the day getting frustrated at trying to sort the gear linkage brackets, they're so fiddly!
I'll have another crack at them throughout the week.
Got an hour on the car this evening.
Managed to get the gear linkage sorted.
New bolts will be ordered, and another mounting point added to the cable holders.
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Next up was the take the old flywheel off and get the new one on.....
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Spot the difference....
It's a 1zz flywheel. Insert facepalm.
I'll be onto some machine shops tomorrow to get some quotes!
Got too impatient.
Ordered a new flywheel from MWR.
;D
Progress has been slow of late, haven't touched the car for a while 5 days :))
New 2zz flywheel from MWR should be here on Monday.
Hopefully I can then get the whole thing in the car.
Plan is to get the engine and box on the East and West mounts.
Tack weld the laser cut mount plates together and take them into work to get done.
Whilst I'm pretty confident at welding I don't spend enough time doing it. And for a few beer tokens I can have them welded by a coded welder at work.
I'm just about there with the conversion kit too to offer for sale.
It will consist of:
Bell housing adapter plate and all three mounts laser cut.
You then buy your own flywheel from MWR either 1zz or 2zz.
I'll also provide part numbers required for the outer CV's and instructions on how to sort the gear linkage and bearing carrier.
What about other tranny options? I dont think 3.5k gearbox is on the list for the average Joe.
E153's can be picked up for less than a grand?
Quote from: Gaz2405 on June 25, 2023, 13:44E153's can be picked up for less than a grand?
Havent seen any of those for such low price. Got some questions:
Do you have any prices for the kit?
Will the normal 1zz flywheel work?
Do we need to modify the cross member?
No prices yet.
Easiest way is to use the MWR flywheel.
If not you'd be I to custom clutch discs.
Cross member tbc as I've not got mine fitted yet, but from taking measurements of both boxes mocked up I don't think so.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on June 25, 2023, 15:35No prices yet.
Easiest way is to use the MWR flywheel.
If not you'd be I to custom clutch discs.
Cross member tbc as I've not got mine fitted yet, but from taking measurements of both boxes mocked up I don't think so.
Waiting on your progress:)
Project took a little side step yesterday.
New flywheel has come, however it's designed for an MR2 turbo clutch, (which I thought I had)
It turns out the clutch and flywheel combo I have are specifically designed for each other.
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I need to drop of the MR2 for th next couple of weeks as I've got some work to do on th campervan.
That's needs a new sump and alternator (axle out job!)
Bits didn't arrive for the campervan, so the car got a few hours.
MWR flywheel on.
Stage 3 competition Clutch for th E153. Rates to 450bhp, but the torque a 3sgte pita out at that is way more than I'll be producing so should be good for what I need.
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Just currently wrestling the gearbox into position.
McIver style pulleys and straps!
Gearbox is now on. Finally!
Had a nightmare.
Gearbox was fowling on the subframe, so no I decided to drop the subframe to make it a little easier.
My method of fitting the adapter to the gearbox first was incorrect, it wouldn't go over the flywheel tabs for the clutch.
So gearbox off, clutch off and flywheel off. Adapter plate off gearbox and onto engine.
Refit flywheel and clutch.
Try to fit gearbox..... Boom fits.
Just got a few holes not lining up 100%
I think it's because the clutch plate isn't 100% in the centre, so it's pulled to one side slightly, othing a bit do brute force won't sort. It's only a few mm out, but I don't just want to go he'll for leather with the impact gun and knacker the threads up.
sounds like a good fight hopefully turn out all good :)
keep going it will all be worth it when up and running 8) 8)
An hour this morning and the gearbox and engine are now fully mated together.
That'll do for today. Garage tidy up later.
Started on welding the passenger gearbox mount.
Getting brave now letting my welding do important stuff :))
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Whilst it may not be cosmetically amazing, it should do the job just fine. (He says...)
I got half a day on the car today.
2nd mount made up.
Driveshafts in, gearbox topped up.
Testing the theory before it all goes back together properly.
Lumpy idle as an O2 bung is out, oil drain was a temporary fix as it was clashing with the bearing carrier.
She started 1st time after about 2/3 months out.
Hi mate! Loving the build saw it from YouTube just a quick question about your OG 1zz turbo build I'm looking to go the same with a Saab Turbo fit for Saab TD04HL-15T just wondering what you used to the exhaust flange? Was it a v band adapter from the turbo or did you use something else?
Quote from: T4YLR on August 1, 2023, 10:55Hi mate! Loving the build saw it from YouTube just a quick question about your OG 1zz turbo build I'm looking to go the same with a Saab Turbo fit for Saab TD04HL-15T just wondering what you used to the exhaust flange? Was it a v band adapter from the turbo or did you use something else?
Hi buddy I've still got the down pipe knocking around some where.
I'm away at the moment let me have a look when I get back. It was a 3 bolt flange effort.
Perfect! just looking on eBay and can't really find much found a 'universal' 3 bolt to vband and just unsure if it'll fit, would appreciate if you get a chance to have a look
https://ibb.co/kqDrgKq
Long time no update, been busy with life and other stuff.
Anyhow, I was buggering around trying to get the gear linkage working.
It was mega faffy, welding, measuring, drilling welding.....you get the picture.
I just couldn't get it to sit in 2nd and 1st gear properly.
So I contacted MWR to see if they'd sell me the bra let they make in their kit separately, after a few emails a deal was done and after 3 days it arrived on my desk at work whilst I was on holiday.
Finally back I'm the UK, I banged the bracket on, it came with all the bolts needed and a cable bracket too.
Fair play MWR.
It was till struggling to get into 1st and 2nd.
I'd done exactly what it said in the manual, swap the turbo shaft out for the 5 speed mr2 roadster item.
I took the shaft out and compared the two,there was a small cut out on one of the selector fork/tangs on the GT4 item.
Somi took the roll pins out and swapped that onto my shaft. We're talking 5mm cut out/step if that.
But that was the way the mechanism was wanting to go and it felt like it had some resistance and what did I have to lose?
(https://i.ibb.co/XxNwCCX/20230816-180123.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XxNwCCX)
(https://i.ibb.co/Xz5LBSc/20230816-180119.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Xz5LBSc)
Turns out that was all it needed!
I now have fully working gear selection!
Over the weekend I'll bang the new race arms in and get her back on 4 wheels and hopefully have a test drive!
Insurance renewal today.
Changed to Sterling from Reis as I didn't renew in town with Rei's and they're just going through new underwriting policies, so not taking on new business.
£322 fully comp, upto 500bhp, everything and more declared.
Being 40 has its uses!
After nearly 3 months the car just pulled itself out of the garage under its own steam.
E153 gearbox conversion. Completed it mate.
(https://i.ibb.co/VvPdLbt/20230820-141544.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VvPdLbt)
image uploader (https://imgbb.com/)
There was some mild panic when the gears wouldn't engage, but a quick adjustment of the clutch pedal and we were sorted.
Next job is to swap the alternator out as that's given up the ghost.
Then let's see what we can really do with this thing without the gearbox holding us back.
Did you have to modify the x member?
Quote from: Nvy on August 20, 2023, 16:25Did you have to modify the x member?
It needed some "massaging" with heat and a big old hammer.
First day testing this evening.
It's always with trepidation after the car's been in a thousand bits!
Firstly all gears change smoothly and as expected, 5th to 4th takes some getting used to.
Quick drive up the road to check for leaks and I noticed my alignment was horrible, nipped back home and luckily because I've now fitted by adjustable arms the mega toe in that I had on the NSR was sorted within minutes.
Back and and blew a boost hose off, reattached at the side of the road.
Time to give it some beans.
The cars just taken plenty of 26 psi pulls for around an hour and all is good.
I think I actually prefer the short ratios compared to the old box, 60mph in 2nd at around 7200rpm, 80mph at 3kish.
The box suits it much better for a B road blaster, I may play with the springs in the selector shaft to make it spring back to center a little more than it currently does.
Just got a small weep from where the gearbox oil cooler lines enter the box (I did think I might get one as I'd forgot to put rubber O rings on).
The car is officially back and boosting!
Awesome news man, well done!
:)all this work and now its out for fun time :) :)
nice one lets see some good pictures now and enjoy your hard work :) :)
Great work that man.
Looking forward to seeing a video at full boost.
Quote from: Alex Knight on August 23, 2023, 10:07Great work that man.
Looking forward to seeing a video at full boost.
Draggy has been ordered. 😂
Had a few minor niggles I needed to sort out on th car.
New alternator and gear stick wasn't returning to centre properly.
Gear stick issue ......when I got my E153 box it didn't come with any bolts/cover for the selector shaft housing so I just reused my C series stuff as they fitted.
Turns out the one at the rear of the box, is the detent lock bolt and is responsible for bringing to gear lever back to centre.
The C series one isn't long enough.
So on the phone to Toyota, tha part is discontinued....bugger.
It was only by chance the Paul Woods mentioned the S54 used the same part.
A quick call to Andy at Jspec and one was winging it's way to me on the house.
Fitted in 5 minutes and were sorted.
(https://i.ibb.co/WGMgqWj/Screenshot-20230903-144333-2.png) (https://ibb.co/WGMgqWj)
This is the part ^^^^^
Next up alternator...I'd been getting a low voltage reading on and off since the day the gearbox died.
Now I'd previously thought I'd dropped the alternator out of the bottom of the car, turned out I hadn't and it wouldn't fit.
So off with the engine mount, now I must have rattled one of the nuts on too hard last time as I was stuck with one that was just spinning.
Luckily enough room to get a grinder in and put a star in the top of it, the chipped the bits off.
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Once that was off, it wasn't exactly straight forward, oil cooler set up was in the way slightly, undid the top hose off the cooler and bent the bracket to make space.
All back together and a quick start up to check for fluid leaks.......
30 seconds later half a litre of oil on the floor.
Turns out when I'd push the oil cooler out of the way, the bottom hose had pushed against the fire wall and undid itself a quarter turn. With that nipped back up I drenched the back of the fire wall in brake cleaner and cleaned up underneath.
Next up is a test drive and an MOT.
@Gaz2405 I've mentioned the power of persistence several times on here and you've confirmed my thoughts about this very useful "tool".
I might need a bit more persistence soon!!
Changed out my short throw shifter back for my standard one as I prefer the feel.
Took it out for a drive, first big pull in 2nd and lost all drive at about 6k.
Thoughts going through my head...
"It better not be the f#cking gearbox!, I cannot be arsed taking that out again"
I've yet to take the hub off, but I suspect I've stripped the splines I'm the hub in the near side as the shaft is just spinning. Either that or CV joint.
Bugger.
Quote from: Alex Knight on September 23, 2023, 19:11Bugger.
And to top today off, I've been out in the Mrs' TTS and now that's pissing coolant everywhere. FML.
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Ah man.. that sucks. Maybe leave it for a bit till you have the energy to look at it closely!
From initial inspection it seems like the shaft wasn't all the way home in the CV joint...
Or at least it's pulled out.
I'll get the shafts out and get them inspected and measured.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on September 23, 2023, 21:35From initial inspection it seems like the shaft wasn't all the way home in the CV joint...
Or at least it's pulled out.
I'll get the shafts out and get them inspected and measured.
Is it Possible to post a pic of what "not all the way home" can look like? .. asking for a friend.. ::)
Quote from: jvanzyl on September 23, 2023, 21:43Is it Possible to post a pic of what "not all the way home" can look like? .. asking for a friend.. ::)
Lol pulled/cut the CV boot off and I can see the circlip not doing any retaining duties.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on September 23, 2023, 21:47Lol pulled/cut the CV boot off and I can see the circlip not doing any retaining duties.
ah! well that's a win!.. of sorts.. guess you'll be paying Mr T a visit for new one then...
Quote from: jvanzyl on September 23, 2023, 21:57ah! well that's a win!.. of sorts.. guess you'll be paying Mr T a visit for new one then...
I think it's a bit worse than that I u don't think the turbo driveshaft is long enough to fully seat in the CV joint.
New turbo driveshaft ordered. Fingers crossed.
Finally had time to properly diagnose.....
Installation error on the outer CV.
The retaining ring didn't seat properly, it had been forced over the shaft so slipped out of its groove.
It was half way down the shaft.
(https://i.ibb.co/5sRhrGc/20231001-102820.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5sRhrGc)
(https://i.ibb.co/FJZjhfg/20231001-102824.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FJZjhfg)
Overtime it's worked it's way back out until it's reached it's weak point.
Lesson learnt.
I'll be installing the new one dry and then greasing up afterwards to ensure its in properly.
A hard lesson/ demonstration of the forces involved. Better luck going forward. Hopefully the coolant leak was easily fixed.
Quote from: Joesson on October 1, 2023, 12:18A hard lesson/ demonstration of the forces involved. Better luck going forward. Hopefully the coolant leak was easily fixed.
Coolant leak is thermostat/water pump housing. £1,200
@ Audi....going in on Wednesday. Ouch!
Quote from: Gaz2405 on October 1, 2023, 13:56Coolant leak is thermostat/water pump housing. £1,200 Audi....going in on Wednesday. Ouch!
Ouch indeed.
The TT was the one car I wanted when I retired, but with only two practical seats meant I had somethings more mundane and my 2 was the carrot.
Running costs for my daily have fortunately, so far ( so good) been more manageable for me.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on October 1, 2023, 13:56Coolant leak is thermostat/water pump housing. £1,200 Audi....going in on Wednesday. Ouch!
Jesus wept.
Cambelt, water pump and full service was £730 for my A3 at a VAG specialist.
Quote from: Alex Knight on October 1, 2023, 19:44Jesus wept.
Cambelt, water pump and full service was £730 for my A3 at a VAG specialist.
Yeah Dark Side Developments were £870+vat but couldn't get it in until November.
The fun thing is that the cambelt kit incl water pump is about 150gbp, but you have to lift the engine up a bit to get the needed space. Hence the high labour
Quote from: shnazzle on October 1, 2023, 21:45The fun thing is that the cambelt kit incl water pump is about 150gbp, but you have to lift the engine up a bit to get the needed space. Hence the high labour
Assume you're on about the A3?
Quote from: Gaz2405 on October 1, 2023, 22:28Assume you're on about the A3?
Or any car of that platform.
Skoda Fabia, Seat Leon, Ibiza,Golf,Polo,TT
Quote from: shnazzle on October 2, 2023, 08:18Or any car of that platform.
Skoda Fabia, Seat Leon, Ibiza,Golf,Polo,TT
Not on the TTS, water pump and thermostat housing are on the transmission side of the block.
Same set up as the Golf R. No need to lift the engine.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on October 2, 2023, 09:59Not on the TTS, water pump and thermostat housing are on the transmission side of the block.
Same set up as the Golf R. No need to lift the engine.
The EA888? Could have sworn. Mind,I am talking models up to about 2013. The "old" TFSI and TSI. Not the newfangled 150,184,240,290hp series.
Quote from: shnazzle on October 2, 2023, 10:08The EA888? Could have sworn. Mind,I am talking models up to about 2013. The "old" TFSI and TSI. Not the newfangled 150,184,240,290hp series.
Such is progress!
Finally got some time on th car today.
Had a new driveshaft from gt4play, £200.
(https://i.ibb.co/2s1GbXz/20231008-142725.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2s1GbXz)
Then annoyingly, because nothing is standard on this car anymore, I had to knock the CV joint off and put the old(new one) back on.
(https://i.ibb.co/QpSRsxn/20231008-143434.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QpSRsxn)
All back together.
(https://i.ibb.co/9r6rHfR/20231008-153415.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9r6rHfR)
Made sure th circlip was properly in before degreasing.
Back in th car and gearbox fluid refilled.
Test drive next weekend.
Car got an outing onto the drive this morning.
:) sound good i hope you remove the laptop before you moved it from there :)) :))
good to see it outside :) :)
Sounds lovely! I thought the laptop was some sort of aero fin at first...! :o
So the car has been on the back burner for a little while.
We've been doing the drive, which has been a mammoth task.
Our house sits on a hill and has a natural spring running through the drive and round the side of the house. So we've had lots of ground drainage put in.
It's had over 120t of bad ground removed and back filled with 75mm, 50mm and 25mm stone. The end is in sight now with tarmac in the next couple of weeks.
(https://i.ibb.co/JQBXJmv/20240310-105918.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JQBXJmv)
(https://i.ibb.co/nnnDsfN/20240310-105914.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nnnDsfN)
This has meant the two has been seriously neglected.
(https://i.ibb.co/3d939TB/20240324-112432.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3d939TB)
(https://i.ibb.co/GxCbQKq/20240324-112439.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GxCbQKq)
I was pondering what to do with the rear arches as they're in quite bad condition and have been rolled and pulled to within an inch of their life.
I'd contemplated rocket bunny arches and wider wheels.
Ended up spotting a post from Jspec, just had a new sable in fro breaking.
Some beer tokens later and two new rear quarters and a new engine lid are. Ow on their way down to me.
Plan is to put the car back to as standard as possible in terms of looks.
I hate the term OEM+, but something like that or the GT3 RS track spec vibes.
Essentially if Toyota had done a big power track spec version.
I suppose Roadster GR spec. Which is quite apt as they're my initials too.