After long research and so on i became an owner of 2000 year silver roadster. The engine was replace by Toyota in 2008 and has currently 55k miles on it. 2 years ago due to bad suspension and my disrespect to the road conditions i spun and broke all the wheels + suspension bits. Since then i have replaced the arms but was scared to drive before i sort it all.
Things on the list that will happen in a month time:
1. Rotors + pads all around. Went with Mtec discs + yellow stuff pads all around. Not the best pads but still good enough.
2. Superpro bush kit.
3. MeisterR coilovers.
4. TopSpeed Decat pipe(i already have toyo manifold). The flex joint of my current one is not up to the task anymore.
5. Wheel bearings, in the process of breaking everything it happened that i made the bearings noisy so now ill have to replace them all.
6. Dev's door bushes.
7. Middle brace from Steve, he told me ill have it soon. Maybe 2-3 weeks time, who knows.
8. TRD rear spoiler.
9. Steering pump removal.
10. If i have LSD - Tranny rebuild + Clutch + Lighter flywheel.
Wish list:
1. Full respray.
2. Hardtop.
3. More bracing custom designed by me.
4. Custom lighter exterior parts.
5. Wing - following Petrus quite close on his mods.
Whats sitting at home with no idea when im going to fit:
1. Turbo kit around GT2554r.
2. Link G4 Storm
My idea is first to get used with the car and to start driving in NA form and then will do the turbo plus the other goodies.
This is it, i will upload pics once i take some.
So couple of things done and the car has improved a lot, list of things done:
1. Rotors + pads all around. Yellow stuff pads rear, ATE front. The pedal has a lot of travel and i dont rly like it but idk what can fix that.
2. Superpro bush kit.
3. MeisterR coilovers.
4. TopSpeed Decat pipe(i already have toyo manifold).
5. Wheel bearings.
6. Oil change + filters.
W/o the cat the sound is rly nice. Sitting at 2k rpms is quiet but once I step on it things get loud rly fast. Still getting used to everything but the initial impression is quite nice.
Brace came and still waiting for the damper from ebay and will fit them after that. It gets better by the day.
Good effort. Re the brake travel, did you bleed them well after the work?
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Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 20, 2019, 18:17
Good effort. Re the brake travel, did you bleed them well after the work?
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Yeah, they were the same before anything was done to them so idk, maybe its the car coz on my other cars the travel is way less. Like on the 2 i need to press the pedal half way before it starts slowing down.
Quote from: Nvy on April 20, 2019, 18:40
Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 20, 2019, 18:17
Good effort. Re the brake travel, did you bleed them well after the work?
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Yeah, they were the same before anything was done to them so idk, maybe its the car coz on my other cars the travel is way less. Like on the 2 i need to press the pedal half way before it starts slowing down.
Maybe worth giving them a good bleed still and check all your vacuum hoses for splits at the ends. Did you refresh the brake fluid? It has a finite lifespan and will deteriorate over time or if you get water in it.
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Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 20, 2019, 18:48
Quote from: Nvy on April 20, 2019, 18:40
Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 20, 2019, 18:17
Good effort. Re the brake travel, did you bleed them well after the work?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah, they were the same before anything was done to them so idk, maybe its the car coz on my other cars the travel is way less. Like on the 2 i need to press the pedal half way before it starts slowing down.
Maybe worth giving them a good bleed still and check all your vacuum hoses for splits at the ends. Did you refresh the brake fluid? It has a finite lifespan and will deteriorate over time or if you get water in it.
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Yeah, last time it was refreshed. I need to check all the hoses as the car is already legal here(18+) and the rubber can go bad when old. I think ill look for a kit to refresh everything(rubber) in the engine bay. Im also getting pops when get it out of gear and just replaced the mid pipe with non cat one so its not the flex joint. I will have some time tomorrow to have a look :) Will also post a pic of the car, shes dirty but no matter :D
Guys any idea if i can run BMC CDA with 3" pipe and maf adapter? Want to make a short intake for my 1zz.
@shnazzle (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=18356) @dan944 (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=14286)
I used a bmc cda with a 45 degree silicone hose, I think 70mm ally pipe and placed it behind the battery. It's tight though.
Quote from: dan944 on April 25, 2019, 11:36
I used a bmc cda with a 45 degree silicone hose, I think 70mm ally pipe and placed it behind the battery. It's tight though.
I bought a pipe with welded adapter on it and its 3" i can get a 70mm to 76 mm 45 degree if it exists :D but will that screw my MAF readings?
Quote from: Nvy on April 25, 2019, 11:38
Quote from: dan944 on April 25, 2019, 11:36
I used a bmc cda with a 45 degree silicone hose, I think 70mm ally pipe and placed it behind the battery. It's tight though.
I bought a pipe with welded adapter on it and its 3" i can get a 70mm to 76 mm 45 degree if it exists :D but will that screw my MAF readings?
That'll work. I run it for about 5 years. Not sure what the maf affect will be though.
So latest news about the car are not so great.
First the gearbox started whining, i guess it was there but i didnt have the chance to drive a lot during the winter. So 1-2-3 are whining sub 2300 rpms and there is slight whine on decelerating maybe in all gears but i tried it in 3rd again in the same rev range. The whine is coming from the back and increases with the revs until it stops past 2300 thats why i suspect the gearbox. Will try to replace the fluid with Fuchs Titan 75w-90 Gl5 that i currently have from couple of years ago but i doubt its gonna change the sound.
Do you think it could be something else? Vacuum leak, exhaust leak? Gearbox shifts like a champ just the rear is sometimes tricky, the car would go in gear but will move like when u are not using the clutch and a bang would be heard. Exhaust catless midpipe was fitted but with liquid gasket because i did not have anything else to use, it was purchased 2nd hand.
Second issue i have is with the engine, it revs quite high sometimes even when hot but i give this to the idle control valve, i need to take off the throttle body to check it out. Why I suspect it is because the car doesnt rev like the other ones that i have seen in videos around here on the forum. Other than that i have heard a metallic sound but i think its something that rattles and is not happy coz i did couple of high rev runs in the twisties around and it was fine. Still not sure tho. After the last labour prices i dropped the guys who were working on the car and will look for somebody else but good mechanics are hard to come by these days.
Couple of questions:
What gaskets do i need when taking the throttle body off? Can a newbie do it at home with limited amount of tools?
Can i change the gearbox fluid in the garage with no lift? I think its a bit tight to do so, car is a bit lowered.
Do i need anything else than oil for the gearbox? Any gaskets or anything?
Car is in one piece finally. Yday I managed to fit the standard exhaust and god such a difference between TTE and OEM. I cant believe, it sounds like another car. No cats at all + OEM seems to be quiet to until 3000 rpms I can only imagine if I had all the cats in place.
Being quieter made the other noises that should not be there appear so I guess ill have to repair my gearbox and some other unpleasant noises. Still no idea if its the chain or the gearbox tho.
My gearbox is pretty noisy too, particularly in 3rd on the overrun. Over 100k miles, so plenty of life left in yours hopefully. I wouldn't bother trying to change the oil without lifting the car - might be possible but jack and axle stands the way to go for sure.
Quote from: Nvy on August 22, 2019, 06:28Car is in one piece finally. Yday I managed to fit the standard exhaust and god such a difference between TTE and OEM. I cant believe, it sounds like another car. No cats at all + OEM seems to be quiet to until 3000 rpms I can only imagine if I had all the cats in place.
Being quieter made the other noises that should not be there appear so I guess ill have to repair my gearbox and some other unpleasant noises. Still no idea if its the chain or the gearbox tho.
Out of curiosity, why did you go back to stock? Too loud?
Quote from: shnazzle on August 22, 2019, 10:25Quote from: Nvy on August 22, 2019, 06:28Car is in one piece finally. Yday I managed to fit the standard exhaust and god such a difference between TTE and OEM. I cant believe, it sounds like another car. No cats at all + OEM seems to be quiet to until 3000 rpms I can only imagine if I had all the cats in place.
Being quieter made the other noises that should not be there appear so I guess ill have to repair my gearbox and some other unpleasant noises. Still no idea if its the chain or the gearbox tho.
Out of curiosity, why did you go back to stock? Too loud?
I wanted to sell it to fund my turbo stuff. I will have more stuff to sale but need to find a new mechanic to work on the car. In the winter Im going to turbo the car with 2554r. :)
Later I found out that its stupid loud. Its fun but not for long trips.
Quote from: james_ly on August 22, 2019, 09:04My gearbox is pretty noisy too, particularly in 3rd on the overrun. Over 100k miles, so plenty of life left in yours hopefully. I wouldn't bother trying to change the oil without lifting the car - might be possible but jack and axle stands the way to go for sure.
Mine is more noisy when accelerating, on overrun there is no noise.
My gearbox is fairly noisy, I have also lost the ability to keep it in 6th (think I circlip has popped off), still holds whatever power the engine is making at 178k miles so far.
Quote from: james_ly on August 22, 2019, 09:04My gearbox is pretty noisy too, particularly in 3rd on the overrun. Over 100k miles, so plenty of life left in yours hopefully. I wouldn't bother trying to change the oil without lifting the car - might be possible but jack and axle stands the way to go for sure.
Do I need to jack both ends of the car or just the rear?
Quote from: Nvy on August 28, 2019, 09:18Quote from: james_ly on August 22, 2019, 09:04My gearbox is pretty noisy too, particularly in 3rd on the overrun. Over 100k miles, so plenty of life left in yours hopefully. I wouldn't bother trying to change the oil without lifting the car - might be possible but jack and axle stands the way to go for sure.
Do I need to jack both ends of the car or just the rear?
I did just the back - stick jack under rear engine mount and then stands on the sills. But probably better to get the car level if possible.
Soooo aux belt tensioner replaced today. After some cursing and trial and error i did it. Quite satisfied with the result - one of the knocking sounds is gone but noticed something else. I went for a drive and the car would start to make strange noise after 4500 rpms and after 5000 it starts to vibrate a bit. It makes a noise similar to dyno when you are measuring horses, no idea what to look for 1st. It does it on acceleration and deceleration, can it be tranny?
The noise is not there when driving slow or when not using high revs.
So the noise and vibration are located - shot alternator bearings. Im replacing the alternator this weekend if I can of course. I will collect the family car tomorrow so wont use the 2 for a run around.
Just replaced the tires with brand new Fulda Kristall Control hp2 in 195/55/15 all around. I know that its no fun but wont drive the car much, just want the tires to be on for some mapping and occasional short drives in the winter.
I have a question
@shnazzle @Carolyn :
The steering is quite awful, it needs more steering input to turn and feels like im steering and the car needs a second to follow. I think its down to tire pressure but wanted to ask you about it? It could be due to the taller and more flexible side wall but I doubt it. The difference is quite dramatic compared to the Advans.
My first thought is steering universal joint gone
Quote from: shnazzle on November 4, 2019, 16:04My first thought is steering universal joint gone
Its brand new and the response got lost after the tires change. All the suspension parts were replaced the last year too.
The tyres at the rear are much too small.
The stagger between front and rear is important.
On a Facelift car, the ideal is 215/45 rear and 185/50 front. 1295 front is fine with the 215 at the back.
Pre facelift: 205/45 and 185/50/
Not surprised the crappy steering came with the change of rubber.
Those sizes and profiles are just plain wrong. ;)
Quote from: Carolyn on November 4, 2019, 16:33The tyres at the rear are much too small.
The stagger between front and rear is important.
On a Facelift car, the ideal is 215/45 rear and 185/50 front. 1295 front is fine with the 215 at the back.
Pre facelift: 205/45 and 185/50/
Not surprised the crappy steering came with the change of rubber.
Those sizes and profiles are just plain wrong. ;)
I also think its due to too much camber and too tall tires but wanted to ask to be sure. Ill double check the pressures too. I could have gone with 205/55 in the rear, it would be way better me thinks but they would be 10 mm taller.
Never even read the top part of the post.
Definitely tyres. That's whack sizing on stock alloys
Quote from: Carolyn on November 4, 2019, 16:33Pre facelift: 205/45 and 185/50/
205/50 and 185/55.
Going 195/55 all round is not a large step neither front nor rear. Load and speed rating are ok.
Going wider front and narrower rear is also odd as decrease understeer front and increase oversteer rear yet you say it lags behind in steering.
Yes it changes the stagger too and thát slows steering.
All in all a bit odd BUT:
Mind that they are M&S tyres so they serve a tótally different purpose.
What do you want, expect from them?
You cannot póssibly expect sporty road behavior from proper snowy M&S?!
They will do better in snow than AD08s!!!
Now I do not live in wintery country at all but if I were living in snow country I´d fit 165/65 15 snowies on the OEM rims I have spare and yes that would make the car handle as on roller bearings on tarmac but quite grippy neutral in snow.
Ill get used to it I just didnt expect it to be so different. For sure wont drive like I used with summer tires. Im just scared not to go in a ditch 2nd time.
Quote from: Nvy on November 4, 2019, 18:24Ill get used to it I just didnt expect it to be so different. For sure wont drive like I used with summer tires. Im just scared not to go in a ditch 2nd time.
Check the tyre pressures, then just get used to how the car understeer vs oversteers and drive accordingly.
One reassuring thought should be that under chilly, wet, slippy conditions should have considerably shorter stopping distance than on any summer wubbah.
Quote from: Petrus on November 4, 2019, 18:37Quote from: Nvy on November 4, 2019, 18:24Ill get used to it I just didnt expect it to be so different. For sure wont drive like I used with summer tires. Im just scared not to go in a ditch 2nd time.
Check the tyre pressures, then just get used to how the car understeer vs oversteers and drive accordingly.
One reassuring thought should be that under chilly, wet, slippy conditions should have considerably shorter stopping distance than on any summer wubbah.
Well yeah, we are having some crazy temps but not gonna drive it every day. Will try to fit my turbo kit too.
So last weekend went and tried to replace the alternator but failed miserably as the bolts would not move at all. I couldnt undo the engine mount so ill try to get somebody else to replace it for me.
I have a question tho to the usual suspects:
@Carolyn @Petrus @shnazzle The back of the engine under the intake manifold is covered with oil, also around the injectors. What should I check first?
My plan of action:
Compression check.
Rocker cover gasket.
Valve stem seals - how to check them?
Rocker gasket.
Make sure your filler cap is tight and sealing as well.
Then it's cam-cover gasket time....
Compression and stem seals can't possibly be involved in this one.
Well I'm not going to contradict Carolyn or Petrus now am I? :) :))
So I passed MOT yday and I bought some Castrol and filters. A question to the DIY guys, can I do an oil change if I lift only the back of the car on ramps? I have some ramps about 25 cm tall and I think I should be able to reach the filter when the car is on them?
I usually just jack the car up on the driver's side and reach in to undo the necessary parts then drop it back down to drain.
Then back up again to refit.
Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 30, 2020, 09:48I usually just jack the car up on the driver's side and reach in to undo the necessary parts then drop it back down to drain.
Then back up again to refit.
Naturally I stick an axle stand in under the subframe as a safety measure while I'm underneath fiddling about.
Quote from: Nvy on April 30, 2020, 07:30So I passed MOT yday and I bought some Castrol and filters. A question to the DIY guys, can I do an oil change if I lift only the back of the car on ramps? I have some ramps about 25 cm tall and I think I should be able to reach the filter when the car is on them?
Yes. Easy.
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?msg=821833
Bit cardboard down to slide under. Plenty of room .
In for a reconditioned gearbox replacement. The reverse is a bit tricky to get into by hand but hope to be ok when its in. Other than that rocker cover gasket and then oil change and filters.
Man got to love a well sorted two, not that mine is but we are getting there slowly. Went to the gym this morning and on the way back I had the confidence to push the car in the twisties. Altho it was in the city and the tires were cold, the car took the 90 degrees bends pretty nice and the slides were quite predictable. Rly love the feel of a stiff car, it rotates with the throttle and its generally a joy to drive. I hope it will drive just as good with the Konis and the Eibach but thats yet to be tried.
Couple of things that I have noticed and its my assumption:
1. Turbo will ruin the whole experience
2. Even 50 kilos are quite noticeable in the 2
3. 2zz + cams will be more rewarding to drive than a turbo car
4. Coilovers are strictly for track cars
On the above still have problems getting in the reverse but the other gears are quite okay. Have some noise like a whistle but have to try and find the source because the repair shop guys couldnt.
1) No
2) yes to the power not really in the handling
3) last few people who've done cams have had issues .
4) Probably depending on the quality of your roads.
1. Not for a road car, turbos are great!
2. Agreed, though you can offset that relatively easily without compromising the car.
3. Not worth the hassle & money.
4. Nonsense. My Tein SuperStreet are great on the road.
Quote from: Alex Knight on June 2, 2021, 15:421. Not for a road car, turbos are great!
2. Agreed, though you can offset that relatively easily without compromising the car.
3. Not worth the hassle & money.
4. Nonsense. My Tein SuperStreet are great on the road.
Our streets are like a moon surface and coupled with yoko AD08r the drive is less than optimal lets say :)) will go to koni plus eibach and will report back.
I think the turbo will ruin the road manners of the car and it wont be that easy to modulate the throttle in the corner. Dont get me wrong I will go turbo, have everything stashed :))
Wanted to show an early pic of the new paint together with the new bumper. The color is not exactly what I wanted but I hope it will grow on me. Huge thanks to the club.
(https://i.imgur.com/IoFqDap.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VDrCDEs.jpg)
:) What is wrong with colour
Quote from: puma2 on January 23, 2022, 08:29:) What is wrong with colour
Wanted it to be a little more bright and somehow more red. Its not bad in the sun but in the shade I need to get used to it.
Quote from: Nvy on January 23, 2022, 08:31Quote from: puma2 on January 23, 2022, 08:29:) What is wrong with colour
Wanted it to be a little more bright and somehow more red. Its not bad in the sun but in the shade I need to get used to it.
Wrap Yellow is your friend ha ha
Quote from: puma2 on January 23, 2022, 08:33Quote from: Nvy on January 23, 2022, 08:31Quote from: puma2 on January 23, 2022, 08:29:) What is wrong with colour
Wanted it to be a little more bright and somehow more red. Its not bad in the sun but in the shade I need to get used to it.
Wrap Yellow is your friend ha ha
Still need to register the new color tho and will start mocking the turbo stuff. Gotta be summer ready 😁
It looks great. The bumper goes well with it all.
I really like it. And bumper does indeed go well in that color.
Hope you learn to like it, it's a great colour
Yes, I definitely like that ;D
Very nice. A hint of midnight purple about that colour, I like it a lot.
New, to me, hot air intake arrived :D
(https://i.imgur.com/DrQ3e1Z.jpg)
So did a test fit for the turbo and for the lame exhaust that I have. I intend to fit it like this and make it run and if I fall in love with the car again will build the engine next year and will make better exhaust.
Here it is: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-ET9__NoltKaiweHzbBPoT2GCMbzEIcj
@Gaz2405 what do you think?
Also a question from where did you take boost signal for the boost block?
That's more or less exactly how my 1zz turbo exhausted to be.
So the car was in the garage after the color change and today after some preparations it fired up 2nd time. Happy to hear the engine, didnt drive it coz it has no mot but will sort it tomorrow.
So MOT today and a drive around the block. I totally forgot what a riot this car is.. A few things to sort and will enjoy it for a while.
Any ideas what material can I use for a custom battery tray?
Very, véry happy for you Ivo!
You sure put enough effort in it to deserve some smiles.