Given the work done by many of the great and good on here, doing an oil change should not be a "biggie"
And yet, As usual, I was beaten at the first.
Access to the sump plug. Fine and dandy.
Access to the filter. Arrgh!!!
How do others access the oil filter in a home drive/garage set up?
Hi, I drove the car backwards up on to 4" home made timber ramps (what I had). 4" clearance was only just enough, to the point that I couldn't breathe, and if I wanted to turn my head I had to slide out first, and I'm 5'9" and only 147 lbs. 6" clearance would be better, especially if you've got lowering springs. Get expert professional supervision to ensure ramps are used safely.
I removed all plastic nappies, and once getting under car, lying on my back, was able to undo the filter. Getting under car is main hurdle, and a little daunting if you've never done it before. Or, take it to a mechanic you trust and give them a bag of the right size cable ties for doing the nappies back up.
I'm not going to lie to you, I found it hard, because my 4" ramps aren't really high enough. Next time I will use higher, and ramp up the front wheels, too, to avoid car and engine being tilted. I tried metal ramps, but for some reason car would not reverse up them. I also looked at plastic ramps, but some owner reviews complain of them breaking, even within weight limits :o I will stick to quality home made timber ramps, but just go bigger next time. Some have used axle stands but, again, get professional advice to ensure car has been made safe first before venturing underneath. I, personally, didn't feel safe using axle stands, but I expect there are those who feel differently.
I became very well acquainted with the underneath of my car, marvelling at not only the neat design, but also various bits of rust, prompting me to take the car to rustbusters - expensive, but worth it, but that's another story ...
Trolley jack under offside sill with some protection, jack it up far enough to get an axle stand in as a failsafe for the jack. Lay down at the side of the car and reach across for the filter.
Filter will invariably be tight as a duck's, chain wrenches are nigh on impossible to use one handed much the same as the rotating clamp type.
Make starter point with automatic centre punch then drill a hole in the filter to stick a strong screwdriver through to undo the filter.
Remove filter, lower car back down to allow oil to drain while you have a brew.
Jack it back up again, lubricate new filter seal, bang it on hand tight and fill her up.
They're a massive pain in the rear with domestic equipment Jase, I've got fairly long arms and it's a stretch for me.
Unless you're taking the car up high enough to get right under and use both hands be ready for a struggle. That said it's definitely doable.
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You know me Jase, only done it a couple of times, but my experience is
1. Jack up with oem jack, one side, enough to get decent access to sump plug
2. Get pan underneath, remove plug and drain
3. Lower oem jack, wait until drained
4. Jack up with oem jack again, enough to get halfords basics jack under engine mount
5. get my halfords basics jack + extra block of timber on puck and jack under engine mount (because full extension still not enough to get halfords basics stands underneath car) put stands + chocks under car
6. Remove trim immediately behind rear nappy I think from recollection. (curse at screws just sheared, tap new holes with tap/die set ready for new screws)
7. Yeah, try removing that filter, Uh-uh. Always ended up using a screwdriver, praying it doesn't shear off whilst threaded section still attached to car
@Johnny5 (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=20823) @Call the midlife! (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=24360) @delhusband (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=24545)
Morning all
In reply to your posts, I experinced all of the same.
Conviently I am nappyless to begin with.
I was looking to jack up via engine mount and then slide some blocks under wheels and lower.
Jack did not have enough height to get anything under. By the time body raised and wheels finally off the floor jack had maxed out. (sit jack on something first)
Also did not see anywhere I would hav been "happy" to place axle stands.
Arm reach. Nope.
Sliding under. Nope. Makes me smile, J5 and I nearly weigh the same. (I'm heavier) Somewhat different size packaging though.
Liked the idea of the plastic ramps. May reconsider now. But surely those that have reported issues cannot have been using a car this light. 250kg a corner?
Regards filter wrenches. I use on e of these. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht719-two-way-three-jaw-oil-filter-wre/ (https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht719-two-way-three-jaw-oil-filter-wre/) brilliant.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F252585769997
These are on my watch list.
I already have these without the additional built in jacks and they make car work much much easier.
Just back it up onto the ramps, done.
Then it's just a case of sliding under, spending 20 mins wrestling with the stupid nappies and doing the necessary
Forgot to add; my drive is at an angle. So when I back it up onto ramps, it actually gives me a couple inches more clearance under the car.
Obviously, wheel blocks (not bricks) under the front wheels. Solid as a rock
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190414/b0305b0551a1fe61af6e3f21ba94eaae.jpg)
Quote from: Ardent on April 14, 2019, 08:24
@Johnny5 (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=20823) @Call the midlife! (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=24360) @delhusband (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=24545)
Morning all
In reply to your posts, I experinced all of the same.
Conviently I am nappyless to begin with.
I was looking to jack up via engine mount and then slide some blocks under wheels and lower.
Jack did not have enough height to get anything under. By the time body raised and wheels finally off the floor jack had maxed out. (sit jack on something first)
Also did not see anywhere I would hav been "happy" to place axle stands.
Arm reach. Nope.
Sliding under. Nope. Makes me smile, J5 and I nearly weigh the same. (I'm heavier) Somewhat different size packaging though.
Liked the idea of the plastic ramps. May reconsider now. But surely those that have reported issues cannot have been using a car this light. 250kg a corner?
Regards filter wrenches. I use on e of these. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht719-two-way-three-jaw-oil-filter-wre/ (https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht719-two-way-three-jaw-oil-filter-wre/) brilliant.
Wooden block on top of jack will give you the height.
Jack stands under the forward mounts for the suspension arms that go forward from the hub. Plenty strong!!!
I just use that method because it works for me, it's the quickest and easiest for me on my own and safer than trying to reverse it up ramps without a banksman.
Anything else that involves raising the car then it's the engine mount and a carefully selected set of wooden blocks. Unless I'm only going up far enough to get stands under the subframe.
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My car doesn't have the nappies so having to do the filter on mum's car was a new task in frustration.
I've only got the Halfords cheap jack/stands/chock set.
Use a small offcut of wood on top of the jack to get the extra height. I then use the stands with a couple of offcuts of wood, which fit nicely under the subframe and blocked in by the bolts.
Extension bar on the sump plug in the case of mum's car which was torqued far too high.
Her oil filter came off by hand, mine always needs a tactical flat screwdriver and hammer.
Sort of glad its not just me thats finding it "fun"
Will revist armed with some blocks of wood.
Unless the blocks of wood are at least 2x the surface area of the stand base, I'd be so nervous. Reminds me of stacking chairs to get to the light at the top of the stairs.
I did consider some rally jacks. But they usually require something on the car, welded into the frame.
Quote from: shnazzle on April 14, 2019, 10:28
Unless the blocks of wood are at least 2x the surface area of the stand base, I'd be so nervous. Reminds me of stacking chairs to get to the light at the top of the stairs.
I did consider some rally jacks. But they usually require something on the car, welded into the frame.
I don't think anyone is putting wood UNDER the axle stands? The wood goes on top of the trolley jack to increase the lifting height. I certainly wouldn't put anything under the axle stands but then mine are 2 ton extendable ones.
I do keep saying I'm going to buy a bigger, high lift trolley jack but I'm running out of storage space as it is and I have to use a jack on the front sill initially anyway.
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Ah, sorry, slow morning :) Slow week.
Slow life haha. I'm just slow
Even wood on jack isn't great, could split
Quote from: delhusband on April 14, 2019, 10:49
Even wood on jack isn't great, could split
It could, you're right but as long as you cross grain the engine mount then the pressure should keep it in place without a catastrophic failure.
Never long grain it.
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Speaking with my Club head on; safety first, practicality 2nd guys :)
I'm sure this is already the case but just highlighting it further, given that being crushed under the car is still the main accident/killer in DIY car repair
For clarity the pieces I refer to span the front to rear depth of the rear cross member to distribute the load and then sit on top of the axle stands on each side.
A ghetto version of the design someone posted up on here previously that they'd cut to align with the bolts on the underside of the cross member.
But yes, certainly wouldn't be chucking random pieces under the car to support ~500kg of weight at the rear
For the Mini, as it's a substantially heavier car, I have what looks like a hockey puck with a notch protruding out of the top, which fits into the four jacking points on the car. Had to pay £50 to add the jacking point plastics as they're not standard on the Countryman ::).
Quote from: Ardent on April 14, 2019, 09:29
Sort of glad its not just me thats finding it "fun"
Will revist armed with some blocks of wood.
Why not take the easy route? My car's booked in with Matt at Rogue in a couple of weeks for an oil change and a pre MOT once over. ;)
With regards to ramps, I use the ones made for my campervan levelling.....Millenco Quattro. No problems with weight...they happily take a 3500 KG Motorcaravan :)
Just remembered, last time (first and only time, so far) I did it, I went looking for a filter wrench. Started off at Halfords and didn't like the selection much. Our filter is unusually small, so much so, that I thought I'd got the wrong one at first. Being small, there aren't many off the shelf wrenches that fit. Plus, annoyingly, there is no industry standard for number of flats on oil filters >:( So, you can find oil filters with different amount of flats, making a 'fit over the top' cup style wrench no use, unless it has precisely the number of flats your filter has, and it has to be exactly the right diameter (diameter can be measured across the flats, across the the corners of the flats or across the diameter of the round circumference ??? I would like to think the industry measures it across the flats, but who knows what different motor factors do).
I'm not sure, off the top of my head, what happened in the end, but after contacting Toyota main dealer, it was either unavailable, long wait or silly expensive, so I bought a giant pliars type wrench, back at Halfords, ironically. I remember being unhappy with this at the time when I did my oil change. It looked like the least worst option I could find that fitted our very small filter. But, the problem was, it has tiny teeth in it to avoid slip, and these work by biting into the thin tin can carcass of the filter, pinching it in places. This is fine for getting off old filter, but left me quite disconcerted as to whether I might have slightly pierced my new filter when tightening it. I know some people just tighten new one by hand, but I was unsure about that, and didn't want dead engine from self loosening filter and contents of sump on road surface.
Having decided on Toyota OEM oil filter every time from now on, I'm going to have another go at tracking down the bespoke cup style wrench, as the diameter and number of flats will always be uniform for both. I bought OEM filter last time, after reading the following excellent thread. Having spent 8 years testing filters for the medical and pharmaceutical industries, I can honestly say I agree with the venerable gentleman's findings:
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=21233.0
My filter removing tool of choice. Every time.
A bigger one than the one pictured.
No messing about. Clamp the fker, squeeze tight until it crushes the filter and turn. Absolutely no point being gentle with a disposible item. And keeps my hands clean :) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190414/26dfa1edc21f8b2bd3abf0acecfbcfe7.jpg)
@Johnny5 (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=20823)
Despite its looks.
This really does work a treat and covers a wide range of sizes. Small enough for our needs.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht719-two-way-three-jaw-oil-filter-wre/
Apologies if it has been suggested already but taking the rear wheel off helped me come at it from the side and get some purchase. I also bought a filter removal tool with the correct flats (few pounds) that fits onto a ratchet which also made life easier.
Quote from: Ardent on April 14, 2019, 13:20
@Johnny5 (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=20823)
Despite its looks.
This really does work a treat and covers a wide range of sizes. Small enough for our needs.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht719-two-way-three-jaw-oil-filter-wre/
Cool. Will look into it
Quote from: Ardent on April 14, 2019, 13:20
@Johnny5 (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=20823)
Despite its looks.
This really does work a treat and covers a wide range of sizes. Small enough for our needs.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht719-two-way-three-jaw-oil-filter-wre/
I like the look of that Jason and if my very old home modified wrench needs replacing that is what I would get as access with a socket from below should be straightforward.
I really don't enjoy the screw driver and hammer method of removal as I have always got smothered in the dirty oil, but sometimes needs must!
@Johnny5 (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=20823) my understanding is that an oil filter should be hand tight, after wiping a film of oil onto the rubber washer. I use both clean / not oily hands to tighten.
My jack height extender is a 75 x 50 x 150 mm long block of beechwood, very dense wood,
with a recess 10mm or so deep to locate on the top of the jack.
It would seem that unless you pay a lot of money a trolley jack that is low enough to go under the 2 will not extend high enough to get the axle stands under in one lift.
My material of choice is carpet between the axle stand top and the car sill jack points.
My wheel chocks are sections of 100x 100mm timber ( old fence posts).
Similarly I sometimes stack these in layers at right angles under the sills as a fail safe for the axle stands. In my youth I used the removed wheel and perhaps the spare but those were steel wheels with fattish tyres and not so prone to impact damage as our alloys.
I believe I have mentioned previously that one of my first jobs on my 2 was to drill and tap all the nappy fixings and replace with stainless steel.
When replacing the nappy the (as far as I know OE ) plastic clips hold the nappy in place while I fit the ( new) stainless machine screws. I really do not find taking off or refitting the nappy that much of a chore.
There is a pice of vinyl floor covering (ex kitchen floor covering) on the garage floor that fits between the wheels. On this is a piece of carpet, face down, that gives me something that is very thin to slide about on under the car.
You can do this without jacking the car up or completely removing the nappies. There is a flap secured with a screw that gives access to the sump nut. You can partially undo the front nappy to gain access to the filter.
Quote from: Newbie57 on April 14, 2019, 15:06
You can do this without jacking the car up or completely removing the nappies. There is a flap secured with a screw that gives access to the sump nut. You can partially undo the front nappy to gain access to the filter.
All this is true but have you actually tried using this method? Makes a right mess in your nappies that then subsequently catches fire...[emoji38]
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:D
+1 on @Ardent (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=20018) 3 jaw oil filter wrench, I have one and it works fine.
For this year's change the oil filter came away by hand - never had one as compliant as that in all the cars I have had.
I've used one of these for about 25 years. Never failed yet.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F332717106020
Sussed it.
Side entry.
Will save actual change for another day now.
Jack OSR. which lifts the whole side. :o
Would just jacking it in the middle hurt?
With osr jacked, gives me enough clearance
To touch grab filter. Therefore can get claw and ratchet on it.
No nappies to play with. Sorted.
Found axle stand point ad well.
Drain and re fit sump plug on the flat.
Jack osr switch filters. Lower and fill.
Quote from: Ardent on April 14, 2019, 16:42
Sussed it.
Side entry.
Will save actual change for another day now.
Jack OSR. which lifts the whole side. :o
Would just jacking it in the middle hurt?
With osr jacked, gives me enough clearance
To touch grab filter. Therefore can get claw and ratchet on it.
No nappies to play with. Sorted.
Found axle stand point ad well.
Drain and re fit sump plug on the flat.
Jack osr switch filters. Lower and fill.
Smallest of amendments to that, jack up and remove drain plug and filter, lower to the flat and go have a beverage or do some cleaning.
Come back, jack up again to refit sump plug and new filter then lower to flat again for fresh oil.
I use a washing up bowl to catch the old oil and can't quite get it under the sump without lifting the car a little.
Oh, don't forget to crack the filler cap to let air in at the top, you know that anyway..
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Home Bargains cat litter tray if you're struggling for a low oil recepticle. I paid 1.99.
Quote from: shnazzle on April 14, 2019, 17:01
Home Bargains cat litter tray if you're struggling for a low oil recepticle. I paid 1.99.
Only pay £1 for the washing up bowls..[emoji23]
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When you say "just jacking it in the middle " do you mean middle of the sill or middle of rear, as in the engine mount?
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Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 14, 2019, 17:04
Quote from: shnazzle on April 14, 2019, 17:01
Home Bargains cat litter tray if you're struggling for a low oil recepticle. I paid 1.99.
Only pay £1 for the washing up bowls..[emoji23]
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Too high for some. That was why I ended with the tray.
Actually the main reason I got it was to do gearbox oil, which I do without lifting the car. The cat litter tray was the only thing to fit under.
Quote from: shnazzle on April 14, 2019, 17:07
Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 14, 2019, 17:04
Quote from: shnazzle on April 14, 2019, 17:01
Home Bargains cat litter tray if you're struggling for a low oil recepticle. I paid 1.99.
Only pay £1 for the washing up bowls..[emoji23]
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Too high for some. That was why I ended with the tray.
Actually the main reason I got it was to do gearbox oil, which I do without lifting the car. The cat litter tray was the only thing to fit under.
Yeah, I still have to lift mine anyway to do the job but take your point on the kitty litter trays [emoji1303]
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Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 14, 2019, 17:06
When you say "just jacking it in the middle " do you mean middle of the sill or middle of rear, as in the engine mount?
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Middle of the cill given the front comes of the floor when jacking the rear ad per the pic above.
Cat litter tray here.
@Call the midlife! (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=24360)
I tend to drain oil. Re fit plug then filter separately to minimise mess.
Maybe i need 2 trays.
Quote from: Ardent on April 14, 2019, 17:54
Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 14, 2019, 17:06
When you say "just jacking it in the middle " do you mean middle of the sill or middle of rear, as in the engine mount?
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Middle of the cill given the front comes of the floor when jacking the rear ad per the pic above.
Only ever use the end points with the notches to jack the car, they're strengthened for it. Use any other part and you risk crushing the sill.
I always have to remind myself not to chock the same side wheel as I'm jacking due to it lifting both wheels.
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Cheers for that tip
This is wonderful, practically spill proof and low profile enough to slide under the car
CarPlan Oil Drainer Can CAR-TPD010-9L https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005F2ZMW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Pr3SCbEYX9TQX
Quote from: Newbie57 on April 14, 2019, 15:06
You can do this without jacking the car up or completely removing the nappies. There is a flap secured with a screw that gives access to the sump nut. You can partially undo the front nappy to gain access to the filter.
You would need loong arms to do that ;) But yes the front / rear nappy does have an access hatch to drain the oil but I looked at that and really didn't feel that lucky with quite where the dirty oil would end up. My thoughts are that it is typically only once, perhaps some ardent all year drivers would change it twice, a year so the oil change is an opportunity to have a good look around.
I last changed my oil in November and now, 5,000 miles later, it's due to be done again. So, I'm looking to streamline the process any way I can
I picked up a Stahlbus oil drain valve a while ago. It's sitting in the back of the garage somewhere to be forever forgotten to fit every time I do an oil change.
No different on the last service.
I must remember to fit it next service.
Having now worked out how to access the filter.
Q2
Any ingenious ideas on how to minimise the risk of spillage and oil running down your arm as you unscrew it?
Quote from: Ardent on April 14, 2019, 22:07
Having now worked out how to access the filter.
Q2
Any ingenious ideas on how to minimise the risk of spillage and oil running down your arm as you unscrew it?
Drain the rest of the oil first, obviously....
As you unscrew it, keep it as level as possible, and be out of the way so that when you inevitably do lose grip of it, it just drops straight down into your catch tray. Try and have your forearm at a downwards angle, that way the overflow doesn't run straight down your arm into your armpit.
Alternatively you can punch/drill a small hole into the bottom to drain it first, then unscrew.
I've never been able to do the filters on these cars without pulling the offside wheel off. Gives me room for my manly shoulders.
Quote from: JoeCool on April 14, 2019, 22:23
Quote from: Ardent on April 14, 2019, 22:07
Having now worked out how to access the filter.
Q2
Any ingenious ideas on how to minimise the risk of spillage and oil running down your arm as you unscrew it?
Alternatively you can punch/drill a small hole into the bottom to drain it first, then unscrew.
I've never been able to do the filters on these cars without pulling the offside wheel off. Gives me room for my manly shoulders.
Like that idea. Drill hole to drain the filter before removing.
I will take the wheel off to make way for my gut.
My process;
- reverse car onto ramps. Chock front wheels
- open engine lid
- remove nappies
- oil tray under sump, undo sump plug
- loosen oil filler cap all the way, leave in place (for debris and not forgetting to put back) . Let oil drain
- remove plastic coilpack cover, undo coil plugs, undo wiring coil 10mm bolts, undo 10mm nut and bolt for coil wiring harness
- remove coils and sparks one by one and replace.
- refit all coil plugs/wires/bolts/nut/cover.
- new washer on sump plug. Back in. Tighten.
- Oil tray under oil filter. Loosen filter with tool of choice.
- Right hand hold funnel (same one I use to fill oil) under filter and unscrew with two fingers of left arm with elbow up, aimed towards the drivers seat. Filter drops into funnel.
- Stand the funnel with filter in it in the corner of oil tray to empty filter and let remaining oil drop out of filter socket. Move from under car, use Juan-sheet is Pleennnty to wipe small amount of oil off my hand.
- get new filter out and lubricate seal
- place new.filter. Hand tighten. Remove oil tray.
- fill oil (3.5ish L), let sit. Check oil level. Fill as necessary.
- tidy up. Replace nappies. Curse nappies. 30 mins rushing complete, just in time to tend to the next house job.
Thinking a like.
I thought about using a funnel to catch whatever and aim it towards the litter tray.
My other idea, (untested) was to hold a plastic bag of some sort with the left hand above the filter mount and use right hand to unscrew filter externally to plastic bag. Filter and contents drop into bag internally whilst hands are external.
Just an idea and clearly have not tested it.
Quote from: Ardent on April 14, 2019, 23:43
Thinking a like.
I thought about using a funnel to catch whatever and aim it towards the litter tray.
My other idea, (untested) was to hold a plastic bag of some sort with the left hand above the filter mount and use right hand to unscrew filter externally to plastic bag. Filter and contents drop into bag internally whilst hands are external.
Just an idea and clearly have not tested it.
Tried that. Was just annoying. Hence the funnel.
What ended up happening is the oil starts seaping out as you're undoing it, and as that happens, the bag gets stuck in the oil and starts going along with the filter. As it's such a loose thread, you try to pull the bag back and it takes the filter back with it, screwing it back on.
Then, as per the function of said oil, you struggle to grip the filter to turn it. You just end up being an idiot under a car caressing a thoroughly lubed up oil filter through a bag with oil now going over the edge of the bag and onto your hand/arm.
All in all an unpleasant experience and an awkward display of automotive erotica.
:))
Quote from: shnazzle on April 14, 2019, 23:28
My process;
- reverse car onto ramps. Chock front wheels
- open engine lid
- remove nappies
- oil tray under sump, undo sump plug
- loosen oil filler cap all the way, leave in place (for debris and not forgetting to put back) . Let oil drain
- remove plastic coilpack cover, undo coil plugs, undo wiring coil 10mm bolts, undo 10mm nut and bolt for coil wiring harness
- remove coils and sparks one by one and replace.
- refit all coil plugs/wires/bolts/nut/cover.
- new washer on sump plug. Back in. Tighten.
- Oil tray under oil filter. Loosen filter with tool of choice.
- Right hand hold funnel (same one I use to fill oil) under filter and unscrew with two fingers of left arm with elbow up, aimed towards the drivers seat. Filter drops into funnel.
- Stand the funnel with filter in it in the corner of oil tray to empty filter and let remaining oil drop out of filter socket. Move from under car, use Juan-sheet is Pleennnty to wipe small amount of oil off my hand.
- get new filter out and lubricate seal
- place new.filter. Hand tighten. Remove oil tray.
- fill oil (3.5ish L), let sit. Check oil level. Fill as necessary.
- tidy up. Replace nappies. Curse nappies. 30 mins rushing complete, just in time to tend to the next house job.
Are you happy you're draining all the old oil with the rear end up on ramps?
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Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 15, 2019, 06:40
Quote from: shnazzle on April 14, 2019, 23:28
My process;
- reverse car onto ramps. Chock front wheels
- open engine lid
- remove nappies
- oil tray under sump, undo sump plug
- loosen oil filler cap all the way, leave in place (for debris and not forgetting to put back) . Let oil drain
- remove plastic coilpack cover, undo coil plugs, undo wiring coil 10mm bolts, undo 10mm nut and bolt for coil wiring harness
- remove coils and sparks one by one and replace.
- refit all coil plugs/wires/bolts/nut/cover.
- new washer on sump plug. Back in. Tighten.
- Oil tray under oil filter. Loosen filter with tool of choice.
- Right hand hold funnel (same one I use to fill oil) under filter and unscrew with two fingers of left arm with elbow up, aimed towards the drivers seat. Filter drops into funnel.
- Stand the funnel with filter in it in the corner of oil tray to empty filter and let remaining oil drop out of filter socket. Move from under car, use Juan-sheet is Pleennnty to wipe small amount of oil off my hand.
- get new filter out and lubricate seal
- place new.filter. Hand tighten. Remove oil tray.
- fill oil (3.5ish L), let sit. Check oil level. Fill as necessary.
- tidy up. Replace nappies. Curse nappies. 30 mins rushing complete, just in time to tend to the next house job.
Are you happy you're draining all the old oil with the rear end up on ramps?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ah, glad you noticed :)
As it turns out the slant of my drive is such that when the rear is on ramps, the car is level. Works out rather nicely for gear oil changes etc
Quote from: shnazzle on April 15, 2019, 06:44
Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 15, 2019, 06:40
Quote from: shnazzle on April 14, 2019, 23:28
My process;
- reverse car onto ramps. Chock front wheels
- open engine lid
- remove nappies
- oil tray under sump, undo sump plug
- loosen oil filler cap all the way, leave in place (for debris and not forgetting to put back) . Let oil drain
- remove plastic coilpack cover, undo coil plugs, undo wiring coil 10mm bolts, undo 10mm nut and bolt for coil wiring harness
- remove coils and sparks one by one and replace.
- refit all coil plugs/wires/bolts/nut/cover.
- new washer on sump plug. Back in. Tighten.
- Oil tray under oil filter. Loosen filter with tool of choice.
- Right hand hold funnel (same one I use to fill oil) under filter and unscrew with two fingers of left arm with elbow up, aimed towards the drivers seat. Filter drops into funnel.
- Stand the funnel with filter in it in the corner of oil tray to empty filter and let remaining oil drop out of filter socket. Move from under car, use Juan-sheet is Pleennnty to wipe small amount of oil off my hand.
- get new filter out and lubricate seal
- place new.filter. Hand tighten. Remove oil tray.
- fill oil (3.5ish L), let sit. Check oil level. Fill as necessary.
- tidy up. Replace nappies. Curse nappies. 30 mins rushing complete, just in time to tend to the next house job.
Are you happy you're draining all the old oil with the rear end up on ramps?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ah, glad you noticed :)
As it turns out the slant of my drive is such that when the rear is on ramps, the car is level. Works out rather nicely for gear oil changes etc
I remember you saying about the slope but only that it gave you better access, just didn't want anyone copying your method on the level and wondering why they were only using 2 litres of oil..[emoji23]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 15, 2019, 06:49
Quote from: shnazzle on April 15, 2019, 06:44
Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 15, 2019, 06:40
Quote from: shnazzle on April 14, 2019, 23:28
My process;
- reverse car onto ramps. Chock front wheels
- open engine lid
- remove nappies
- oil tray under sump, undo sump plug
- loosen oil filler cap all the way, leave in place (for debris and not forgetting to put back) . Let oil drain
- remove plastic coilpack cover, undo coil plugs, undo wiring coil 10mm bolts, undo 10mm nut and bolt for coil wiring harness
- remove coils and sparks one by one and replace.
- refit all coil plugs/wires/bolts/nut/cover.
- new washer on sump plug. Back in. Tighten.
- Oil tray under oil filter. Loosen filter with tool of choice.
- Right hand hold funnel (same one I use to fill oil) under filter and unscrew with two fingers of left arm with elbow up, aimed towards the drivers seat. Filter drops into funnel.
- Stand the funnel with filter in it in the corner of oil tray to empty filter and let remaining oil drop out of filter socket. Move from under car, use Juan-sheet is Pleennnty to wipe small amount of oil off my hand.
- get new filter out and lubricate seal
- place new.filter. Hand tighten. Remove oil tray.
- fill oil (3.5ish L), let sit. Check oil level. Fill as necessary.
- tidy up. Replace nappies. Curse nappies. 30 mins rushing complete, just in time to tend to the next house job.
Are you happy you're draining all the old oil with the rear end up on ramps?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ah, glad you noticed :)
As it turns out the slant of my drive is such that when the rear is on ramps, the car is level. Works out rather nicely for gear oil changes etc
I remember you saying about the slope but only that it gave you better access, just didn't want anyone copying your method on the level and wondering why they were only using 2 litres of oil..[emoji23]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very true.
I even modified my litter tray so that it sits flat on my slopey drive, by adding a little leg to one side :)
Quote from: shnazzle on April 15, 2019, 07:30
Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 15, 2019, 06:49
Quote from: shnazzle on April 15, 2019, 06:44
Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 15, 2019, 06:40
Quote from: shnazzle on April 14, 2019, 23:28
My process;
- reverse car onto ramps. Chock front wheels
- open engine lid
- remove nappies
- oil tray under sump, undo sump plug
- loosen oil filler cap all the way, leave in place (for debris and not forgetting to put back) . Let oil drain
- remove plastic coilpack cover, undo coil plugs, undo wiring coil 10mm bolts, undo 10mm nut and bolt for coil wiring harness
- remove coils and sparks one by one and replace.
- refit all coil plugs/wires/bolts/nut/cover.
- new washer on sump plug. Back in. Tighten.
- Oil tray under oil filter. Loosen filter with tool of choice.
- Right hand hold funnel (same one I use to fill oil) under filter and unscrew with two fingers of left arm with elbow up, aimed towards the drivers seat. Filter drops into funnel.
- Stand the funnel with filter in it in the corner of oil tray to empty filter and let remaining oil drop out of filter socket. Move from under car, use Juan-sheet is Pleennnty to wipe small amount of oil off my hand.
- get new filter out and lubricate seal
- place new.filter. Hand tighten. Remove oil tray.
- fill oil (3.5ish L), let sit. Check oil level. Fill as necessary.
- tidy up. Replace nappies. Curse nappies. 30 mins rushing complete, just in time to tend to the next house job.
Are you happy you're draining all the old oil with the rear end up on ramps?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ah, glad you noticed :)
As it turns out the slant of my drive is such that when the rear is on ramps, the car is level. Works out rather nicely for gear oil changes etc
I remember you saying about the slope but only that it gave you better access, just didn't want anyone copying your method on the level and wondering why they were only using 2 litres of oil..[emoji23]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very true.
I even modified my litter tray so that it sits flat on my slopey drive, by adding a little leg to one side :)
Uber nerd...[emoji23]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'd caution against using ferrets and litter trays under the car at the same time
(https://tse2.mm.bing.net/th?id=OGC.8ebbe83225933cb7522b03a78c9cfb2b&pid=Api&rurl=https%3a%2f%2fmedia.giphy.com%2fmedia%2f1HPCyErBvIzUQ%2fgiphy.gif&ehk=IV9FwcepPFWVD9ksbOSYvg
)
[/quote]
Are you happy you're draining all the old oil with the rear end up on ramps?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[/quote]I had that problem last time, on a level garage floor. I didn't get anywhere near the maximum oil in and wondered why. More than 2 litres, but nowhere near the max, and dipstick came up to the max. Drive is on a slope, so I will do it there next time
:D = Result.
Early start, no need to rush. Phone on charge and blueteethed to Dali Katch speaker playing Andrea Bocelli Si.
So all set for operation oil change.
I have the advantage of starting nappyless.
Engine stone cold, so as much oil in the sump as there is going to be.
Able to get to sump plug straight off with car on the deck. (on Tein S springs) Cracked plug.
Just some cardboard packaging on floor to act as insulation and also acts a slide.
Broke out the cat litter tray. (just fro clarity, I do not own a bird murdering, mouse tormenting garden border shitting cat)
Positioned tray. Removed oil filler cap. Removed plug and drained. Cleaned plug and fitted new washer.
Gave a good while to drain.
Re-fitted plug and washer. Emptied oil from tray.
Now the fun bit.
Jacked up OSR. Positioned Axle stand. lowered onto stand.
With trusty 3 leg oil filter removal tool on ratchet. Slid under, put tool to filter, before even applying any real pressure filter moved. As it should when done hand tight.
Re-positioned tray under filter. Unscrewed enough to break seal and allow oil to come out using filter as a guide into tray.
When slowed down removed filter completley and into tray. lowered car to assist with draining.
Prepe'd new OEM filter.
Raised OSR again. Cleaned up filter housing surface. Fitted new filter as per instructions. Literally as instructions on box.
Screwed on filter until it "TOUCHES" the housing, and I mean just touches.
The instructions then say turn filter through 3/4 of a turn.
Conveniently, there was some text on the bottom of the filter in a 6 o'clock position. (as I was looking at it) So turned through 9 12 and by the time had got to 3, that was a much as hand tight was going. Who knew?
Lowered and refilled with 3.5 litres of oil.
Deliberately left 200ml short, not knowing what may have been left in.
Cleaned up and went for a 60 mile lid and windows down, sunny, bendy and twisty mile test drive.
Checked underneath so far so good.
Will check level in the morning when stone cold.
Quote from: delhusband on April 15, 2019, 08:28
I'd caution against using ferrets and litter trays under the car at the same time
(https://tse2.mm.bing.net/th?id=OGC.8ebbe83225933cb7522b03a78c9cfb2b&pid=Api&rurl=https%3a%2f%2fmedia.giphy.com%2fmedia%2f1HPCyErBvIzUQ%2fgiphy.gif&ehk=IV9FwcepPFWVD9ksbOSYvg
)
Its left the sump plug behind...
:o