Had my car in with local garage yesterday. They were checking my slider pins. No charge for the work they did as it relates potentially to some previous work. Drove it home down the road, no issues.
Today the car is making a whining sound, the engine warning light is on and the temperature gauge is off the scale. There is also evidence of steam around the coolant fill tank.
I guess this could be many things but where do I start? They've promised to look at it tomorrow (5secs after saying they're "fully booked until Monday").
And whilst it's hot right now, it's in full on limp mode and I've had to dump it around the corner from home.
Quite worried tbh.
Sounds like you've lost coolant and seriously overheated it. Not good.
Probably a leaky radiator (most usually the culprit for loss of coolant).
It's never a good idea to let an ally engine get that hot.
For future reference, if you ever see the temperature climbing above normal, pull over,switch off and investigate. Never let it get it 'off the scale'.
Hopefully, the whine will go away when it's cool and topped up. If it persists, I'd be worried too.
This happened in such a short drive. Low speeds, 5mins (less than a mile) down the road and back. Thought the weird sound was the brakes they'd been fiddling with.
Then I saw the temp level. Wow. It was well over the max when I noticed but was moving downward, but then begun to climb again. That's when I pulled over somewhere safe. Will let it cool down and then top up with some de-ionised water and see if it starts and works enough to get it back on the drive.
hope it's not seriously damaged :(
Quote from: househead on July 31, 2019, 13:17This happened in such a short drive. Low speeds, 5mins (less than a mile) down the road and back. Thought the weird sound was the brakes they'd been fiddling with.
Then I saw the temp level. Wow. It was well over the max when I noticed but was moving downward, but then begun to climb again. That's when I pulled over somewhere safe. Will let it cool down and then top up with some de-ionised water and see if it starts and works enough to get it back on the drive.
hope it's not seriously damaged :(
Any old water will do at this point. It looks like the head was uncovered by coolant, which means you're missing quite a lot. You'll be starting again with coolant for the entire system, if the radiator is the root problem, so just make sure it's well filled.
Top it up, run the engine, top it up again, if needed.
Thanks
@Carolyn I'll update here how that goes.
If I have such a massive leak I'm not sure how this occurred so quickly. Only topped up the coolant once since having it and I'm talking like 100ml worth.
How likely is it some damage has been caused (inadvertently) by working on my brakes?
It's an old car. Things break. Radiators spring leaks... poopoo happens!!
These cars have to be looked after like classics, because they are 15-20 years old, there's always going to be stuff getting to its sell-by-date!
The leak doesn't have to be 'massive', just steady. One day, you drive it and the coolant level has gone from low to critical.
Just about all our cars have had the radiator replaced, or will be having it replaced very soon.
I've done both of mine.
Almost certainly utterly unrelated to the brake work.
Oh - Do you have a code reader? better not to clear the warning light until the code has been read.
Replacing the rad is easy, bleeding and filling the cooling system, less so... but I can advise on that.
I do have an ODB reader but not sure if it supports this car, it's an obdeleven Bluetooth one I got for my Golf.
Definitely a rad leak, nice pool under the front end...
Pic ... https://ibb.co/SBLwqyQ
Just waiting for it to cool down for a top up. Made it to about 30% of gauge. Engine starts, just tested that and turned it off straight away.
It just occurred to me that the 'whine' could be the result of a seized water pump...which would cause rapid overheating too. Or a problem with the belt.
(This is what you get for guessing at distance!)
Before you start the car, remove the plastic canister on the right. (two little hoses and slide it up in its bracket - it will come out), Get a flashlight, start the engine, and look at the rotation of the auxiliary belt. Make sure it's turning all the pulleys.
Just read your last post - never mind....
Try your OBD reader, you might be pleasantly surprised.
You've probably got away with it.
I know the water pump has been replaced reasonably recently (in last 2-3 years) as I have a receipt for it from the previous owner. That doesn't of course mean that it hasn't failed!
Will crack out the reader and give that a try to see if it reads the codes. At home now smoking and drinking tea nervously before I go back when it's fully cooled down
+1 on the radiator being the primary culprit. Both our cars have had these go. Really common failure.
It is also surprising just how quickly the temperature will rise with substandard levels in it.
Come to think of it ... I was out in it the other day and was surprised how quickly it was upto (normal) temp. Potentially problem had already begun at that point.
Found a cheap radiator on ebay...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-RADIATOR-TOYOTA-MR2-W3-1999-TO-2007-1-8-PETROL-ROADSTER/282665232522?fits=Model%3AMR+2%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+III&hash=item41d029288a:g:BVAAAOSw5E1cYq0x
Is that suitable? Most of the others listed seem to be a little more expensive. Was not expecting it to be this cheap although
@1979scotte told me the rad was cheap but the coolant isn't!
The "evidence" on the road is on the nearside front, which is where the 2's radiator typically leaks from.
My replacement radiator also blew out a plug of some sort on that side as well, and that was very sudden, so my money is on the rad.
Managed to get it back on my drive. Waited till temp was all the way down, topped up with water, ran it on idle for a few mins, topped up some more and drove it home round the corner 100m or so at most minimal revs, almost stalling it as I reversed it in. Temp was up at the "normal" point as I switched it off. Engine sounds fine so hopefully have got away with it.
Quote from: househead on July 31, 2019, 15:07Come to think of it ... I was out in it the other day and was surprised how quickly it was upto (normal) temp. Potentially problem had already begun at that point.
Found a cheap radiator on ebay...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-RADIATOR-TOYOTA-MR2-W3-1999-TO-2007-1-8-PETROL-ROADSTER/282665232522?fits=Model%3AMR+2%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+III&hash=item41d029288a:g:BVAAAOSw5E1cYq0x
Is that suitable? Most of the others listed seem to be a little more expensive. Was not expecting it to be this cheap although @1979scotte told me the rad was cheap but the coolant isn't!
Can't follow the link but if it's Coolparts then that's the one.
Quote from: Call the midlife! on July 31, 2019, 15:26Can't follow the link but if it's Coolparts then that's the one.
Yep coolpartsuk ... I'll get the bugger ordered. Thanks mate!
There have been issues with the O rings on the drain and bleed plugs on these. No big deal, I'll send you some slightly fatter ones....(if I've still got some) put some vaseline on them when you screw the plugs in - stops them tearing.
Thanks
@Carolyn and all of you!
I'm so pleased with how helpful everyone is here as always that I think a tenner donation to the club is in order!
I'm out of those O rings..
You want 6mm x 2mm Nitrile.
Quote from: Carolyn on July 31, 2019, 16:36I'm out of those O rings..
You want 6mm x 2mm Nitrile.
Righty O (geddit), I'll get some on order with the rad.
@1979scotte has kindly offered to have a lot at it with me too as I gather he doesn't live too far away.
Shopping list
Cool Parts rad
Coolant 10L? 15L? I like premix. Eurocarparts do 5L for £15
Maybe some jubilee clips the hose clamps can go anything else?
@Carolyn @Joesson @househead @Call the midlife!
We don't have a radiator replacement how to which surprised me.
Doesn't everyone do it eventually?
We do have a coolant replacement guide
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=20138.0
I have jubilee clips (somewhere) left over from securing the gas pipe on my BBQ, I'm guessing they'll do the job.
Coolant-wise, will this do?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vetech-20L-Antifreeze-Summer-Coolant-20-Litre-Blue-Anti-Freeze-Engine/302495000553 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vetech-20L-Antifreeze-Summer-Coolant-20-Litre-Blue-Anti-Freeze-Engine/302495000553)
£33 for 20l (mixed) and a further 20% off if ordered before tomo. Or do I want the red stuff?
Quote from: househead on July 31, 2019, 16:52Coolant-wise, will this do?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vetech-20L-Antifreeze-Summer-Coolant-20-Litre-Blue-Anti-Freeze-Engine/302495000553 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vetech-20L-Antifreeze-Summer-Coolant-20-Litre-Blue-Anti-Freeze-Engine/302495000553)
£33 for 20l (mixed) and a further 20% off if ordered before tomo. Or do I want the red stuff?
The red stuff. I buy 5 ltrs of pure stuff and dilute.
Quote from: househead on July 31, 2019, 16:52Coolant-wise, will this do?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vetech-20L-Antifreeze-Summer-Coolant-20-Litre-Blue-Anti-Freeze-Engine/302495000553 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vetech-20L-Antifreeze-Summer-Coolant-20-Litre-Blue-Anti-Freeze-Engine/302495000553)
£33 for 20l (mixed) and a further 20% off if ordered before tomo. Or do I want the red stuff?
Ideally you want OAT, have you tried Opie Oils, they always have offers and discounts on or just use the ROC discount and make sure your order is enough to get free delivery.
Euro Carparts is OAT.
I know Carolyn likes to mix her own but to me it's a faff.
Quote from: 1979scotte on July 31, 2019, 17:05Euro Carparts is OAT.
I know Carolyn likes to mix her own but to me it's a faff.
There's one just down the road from me. I'll have a looky there tomorrow.
I did check on Opie but they appear to be out of stock (and also a bit expeno, discount aside).
raidiator lower mounting rubbers?
Mine was well gone when I went to change my raidator :-\
Quote from: moredun on July 31, 2019, 18:37raidiator lower mounting rubbers?
Mine was well gone when I went to change my raidator :-\
Sounds like a job that might need doing and if not, might be worth doing anyway.
Where can I find these / what do I need to look for exactly?
The rubber bits from these?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-MR2-Mk3-Roadster-Radiator-Mount-Brackets-and-Rubbers-Pair/113792649099
Quote from: househead on July 31, 2019, 18:16Quote from: 1979scotte on July 31, 2019, 17:05Euro Carparts is OAT.
I know Carolyn likes to mix her own but to me it's a faff.
There's one just down the road from me. I'll have a looky there tomorrow.
I did check on Opie but they appear to be out of stock (and also a bit expeno, discount aside).
Order online and collect for best prices
Quote from: househead on July 31, 2019, 18:59Quote from: moredun on July 31, 2019, 18:37raidiator lower mounting rubbers?
Mine was well gone when I went to change my raidator :-\
Sounds like a job that might need doing and if not, might be worth doing anyway.
Where can I find these / what do I need to look for exactly?
The rubber bits from these?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-MR2-Mk3-Roadster-Radiator-Mount-Brackets-and-Rubbers-Pair/113792649099
Nope, those are the top mounts and fairly easy to get hold of, it's the ones that sit in the lower cross brace that tend to corrode into the bodywork and have a metal insert that also dissolves.
https://mr2-ben.co.uk/products/995
@1979scotte, yes Scotte you will need some Jubilee type clips as the existing OE clips will likely be corroded and will not give a for sure fixing if replaced.
@househead, check the size of the hose that the Jubilee type clips will be fitted to, I am pretty sure that your gas bbq had much smaller hose than the 2's radiator hose.
Quote from: Joesson on July 31, 2019, 20:04@1979scotte, yes Scotte you will need some Jubilee type clips as the existing OE clips will likely be corroded and will not give a for sure fixing if replaced.
@househead, check the size of the hose that the Jubilee type clips will be fitted to, I am pretty sure that your gas bbq had much smaller hose than the 2's radiator hose.
The gas bbq hose is 8mm ID and about 10/11mm OD. The clips I used can accommodate a good bit more (maybe 16mm at a guess). I remember this as they required a fair bit of screwing!
I'll dig them out shortly and get some bigger ones if needed. How big is the rad hose?
Quote from: househead on July 31, 2019, 20:13Quote from: Joesson on July 31, 2019, 20:04@1979scotte, yes Scotte you will need some Jubilee type clips as the existing OE clips will likely be corroded and will not give a for sure fixing if replaced.
@househead, check the size of the hose that the Jubilee type clips will be fitted to, I am pretty sure that your gas bbq had much smaller hose than the 2's radiator hose.
The gas bbq hose is 8mm ID and about 10/11mm OD. The clips I used can accommodate a good bit more (maybe 16mm at a guess). I remember this as they required a fair bit of screwing!
I'll dig them out shortly and get some bigger ones if needed. How big is the rad hose?
We need to ask Carolyn but at a guess 2"
Certainly way bigger than 16mm.
I would be very inclined to remove the front under tray and the frunk plastics and have a good look around.
@househead, does your 2 have aircon? If so no problem relative to above video. If not don't be too alarmed that you only have one cooling fan.
When I replaced my radiator I thought that my 2 was missing a cooling fan!
No air con here! Thanks for the heads up on that, saves me the cursing!
Quote from: househead on July 31, 2019, 20:13Quote from: Joesson on July 31, 2019, 20:04@1979scotte, yes Scotte you will need some Jubilee type clips as the existing OE clips will likely be corroded and will not give a for sure fixing if replaced.
@househead, check the size of the hose that the Jubilee type clips will be fitted to, I am pretty sure that your gas bbq had much smaller hose than the 2's radiator hose.
The gas bbq hose is 8mm ID and about 10/11mm OD. The clips I used can accommodate a good bit more (maybe 16mm at a guess). I remember this as they required a fair bit of screwing!
I'll dig them out shortly and get some bigger ones if needed. How big is the rad hose?
50mm springs to mind for the main pipes, I know the first lot I got were 50-80mm and wouldn't tighten up enough so I got 20-50mm and they were just right, so anything in the 40-50mm region depending on how they nip up.
These could be good 40-60
https://www.toolstation.com/hose-clip/p69339?store=DH&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=CjwKCAjw-ITqBRB7EiwAZ1c5U_99kJvDeAcj8P3OGWt7N12zb0l24Y70PrjDrhagu_bfU3r-hU_VkxoCwSUQAvD_BwE
Will add those to my shopping list!
6x2.5 for the o ring if you can
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=64576.0
Thanks
@Bossworld Got those on order too ... would like to avoid the issues you and others had. Also I'll have a good few spares if anyone needs 'em
Quote from: Bossworld on August 1, 2019, 08:066x2.5 for the o ring if you can
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=64576.0
+1 on this.
I had a brand new rad on the last one, which included an o-ring... which was mullered.
I forgot to check it before install and guess what... it leaked so had to change it!
Some bits started arriving for the job and I also started removing bits at the front. Took out the frunk, plastics, alarm and rad fan.
Quick questions ...
a) Do I need to jack up the front to get the front nappy off? (My car is 30mm lowered).
b) Is there a nuclear option for draining remaining coolant? Most videos or stuff I've read relate to replacing existing coolant in a working rad. If I'm taking the thing off, could I just drain from the main pipe?
Still waiting on some bits but ideally would like to get the existing rad out and drained of coolant, then hopefully get the new rad in place while I wait for O rings and jubilee clips to complete the job before the refill/bleed which sounds like the donkey work bit
I've posted a couple of pointers in your othrr thread...
In the spirit of sharing as widely as possible:
The nappy can stay put. You need to get her up on jack-stands to get at the two coolant drains in the pipework. They are located just about underneath the front bulkhead. Be careful removing the drain plugs. Soak in Plusgas and (if they are stubborn) put a bit of heat to them. Some folk have managed to shear these off!! Put some teflon tape on the threads when you put them back. Using these drains ensures you end up refreshing ALL the coolant. (which is a good thing to do.)
Best to do the O rings on the new rad while it's out of the car.
I'll get out there and get a-spraying with my plus gas and hold off on installing the rad in place until the O rings arrive!
Teflon tape I have somewhere but I suspect it might be less stressful to go and buy some new because somewhere == anywhere right now in my gaff!
So, job was done last weekend gone and car seems grand. I've topped up the coolant a small amount since taking it for a drive and it dropping, but I don't believe there's any leaks. Heater blows hot and car gets upto and stays at operating temp as expected. Cold start idle seems high (1.5-2k revs) but tbh I've never looked at cold idle before so expect this could be normal? Warm idle is normal, and if anything a little lower than before at 700-750ish.
We did however make one small bobo with the O rings. I'd ordered some 6mm x 2mm in addition to 6mm x 2.5mm. Having forgotten this, when the first pack arrived, I expected them to be the right ones. We swapped them onto the rad and size wise they looked identical to the ones they replaced. This morning some similar sized but a little fatter O rings dropped through the letterbox, and a penny dropped in my mind!
I'm guessing that for the rad bleed valve I can just unscrew and replace it? As for the drain valve on the rad at the bottom, is it reasonable to unscrew, plug temporarily with something (thinking bluetac), replace O ring and replace drain screw (after removing temporary plug)?
Quote from: househead on August 6, 2019, 19:08So, job was done last weekend gone and car seems grand. I've topped up the coolant a small amount since taking it for a drive and it dropping, but I don't believe there's any leaks. Heater blows hot and car gets upto and stays at operating temp as expected. Cold start idle seems high (1.5-2k revs) but tbh I've never looked at cold idle before so expect this could be normal? Warm idle is normal, and if anything a little lower than before at 700-750ish.
We did however make one small bobo with the O rings. I'd ordered some 6mm x 2mm in addition to 6mm x 2.5mm. Having forgotten this, when the first pack arrived, I expected them to be the right ones. We swapped them onto the rad and size wise they looked identical to the ones they replaced. This morning some similar sized but a little fatter O rings dropped through the letterbox, and a penny dropped in my mind!
I'm guessing that for the rad bleed valve I can just unscrew and replace it? As for the drain valve on the rad at the bottom, is it reasonable to unscrew, plug temporarily with something (thinking bluetac), replace O ring and replace drain screw (after removing temporary plug)?
My car idles quite high on cold start (about 1600) but fades away to 800-850 once warm. You'll likely find that an ODB reader gives a more accurate read out than the gauge.
O-ring - you might find 2mm is fine - check to see if there's a weep over the next few days (hence why I moved up to 2.5).
Can't really comment on the switcheroo but I'm fairly sure I must have re-done the top one while it was full of coolant and don't remember losing masses.
i'd probably advise against blutac, you may end up with bits left behind. Could you use something more solid? Depending on size perhaps a cork or one of those tapered stoppers that go in wine bottles. Or even a screwdriver with some tapered rag wrapped round it - perhaps even finished with insulating tape if you are feeling professional. All suggestions courtesy of bodgit central!
If there are no weeps leave well alone.
I knew that bleed valve at the top shouldn't of leaked when I undid it.
If that's the biggest mistake made on the whole job not so bad I reckon.
Think I'll leave it parked up with some cardboard under and see if there's any leak evidence, though I suspect if it is going to leak from the bleed valve then it would do so when pressurised.
I'll leave it alone but keep my eye on it. Very happy with the job we did Scott. Having the car back on the road is the main thing!