Hi,
I'm going through the possible causes for the above code. Done the simple thing, changed oil. The OCV seems OK, not gummed, works with 12vs. Now the more difficult item.
The OCV filter, seems it is below the OCV which is bad enough to get at and to make matters worse i believe its behind the alternator. Has anyone got ideas on how to get at the OCV filter with the engine in situ. It's on far side of the engine against the bulkhead. Thoughts, advice, ideas anyone
It can be done. Remove charcoal canister for openers. For a bit more space.
The filter sits just under the PC. Just looks like a bolt head.
The hands of an 8 year old with triple jointed wrists would be useful in this situation.
Maybe certain cranked spanners help, don't know I gave up. But then I didn't have a code to sort out.
Just noticed you are in Leicester.
Perhaps a meet up when I get back from hols.
Take the auxiliary belt off (in how to's).
Remove top bolt from alternator and loosen the bottom bolt. Swing it away from the engine.
Makes the filter at lot easier to deal with.
I'm sure I posted this yesterday but not showing now.
Maybe didn't hit the post button.
@Elektronic Might just be worth re-setting code and monitoring for a while.
DTC P1349 is also output after the foreign object is caught in some part of the system in the engine oil and the system returns to normal in a short time. As ECM controls so that foreign objects are ejected, there is no problem about VVT. There is also no problem since the oil filter should get the foreign object in the engine oil.
Update,
Ive reset the code, still the engine light and code comes on.
When i tested the original it worked, but oscillated, meaning it shuttled back and forth very quickly. Don't know it that is how it actually operates in situ. Rather than take chances and struggle again I have a replacement on its way. If that does not cure it..... with hands of a 8 year old Ill attempt to slacken the alternator and try to get at the plug. Ive already changed the auxiliary belt, so I'm getting some practice
Thanks Ardent and Carolyn
How was the test done?
I thought on the bench, when the ocv
is fed 12v the plunger(?) fully extends or retracts.
Don't think it should oscillate if fed a constant voltage.
Quote from: Ardent on September 6, 2019, 17:56How was the test done?
I thought on the bench, when the ocv
is fed 12v the plunger(?) fully extends or retracts.
Don't think it should oscillate if fed a constant voltage.
No it shouldn't oscillate.
You can get to the filter without removing the belt and moving the alternator, but it is very fiddly, I've done it a few times by just moving the dipstick out of the way a little... However, I've also dropped the filter/bolt down the back of the engine a few times too :)
Thanks for the notes and advice. Yes I did the test on the bench....so mind made up, in goes a new valve.Its reassuring that the the filter can be accessed with the engine in situ, i'll defer on that little task ! until I've fitted the new valve.
Here's hoping.
Quote from: Elektronic on September 8, 2019, 09:35Thanks for the notes and advice. Yes I did the test on the bench....so mind made up, in goes a new valve.Its reassuring that the the filter can be accessed with the engine in situ, i'll defer on that little task ! until I've fitted the new valve.
Here's hoping.
I strongly advise you to service the filter while you're in there.
Would be rude not to.
Just don't drop it.
Quote from: Ardent on September 8, 2019, 14:10Would be rude not to.
Just don't drop it.
I find this very helpful. I did kill a filter with it once and have to get a new one though, but not many other options when you drop the filter - https://www.amazon.co.uk/NoCry-Pick-up-Tool-Set-Telescoping/dp/B07D23M5R7 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/NoCry-Pick-up-Tool-Set-Telescoping/dp/B07D23M5R7)
Update No2
Having purchased a new OCV I compared the 2, seems my original one had semi jammed, there was at least 2mm difference in the resting valve position! Not much but I guess sufficient to restrict oil flow.
I tested the original OCV again, did not shuttle, so i guess my bad connection. Meanwhile having 'operated' the valve electrically several times the valve returned fully to its rested position.
Ok against advice I'm deferring the filter clean, getting the OCV out although very fiddly is nothing compared to getting the OCV fixing bolt back in and started. Dropped 2 bolts down the back of the engine. Followed advice, slackened the alternator and pushed back, plus of course removed the carbon canister and bracket.
So new valve is in, plan to run awhile if only to rest battered hands and get enthusiasm to tackle the dreaded filter bolt.
BTW, in a fit i decided to decat the precats followed the excellent write up on this site. The only thing I would add :
1. Do replace the o ring steel gaskets manifold to cat, plus the manifold to cyl head steel gasket
2. Unlike the original author i find the exhaust is more noisy.....booms a little. I guess not surprising as exhaust expands into a large hollow chamber.
3. If like me you have an elderly MR2, jazzed up the manifold metal heat shields (rusting and discoloured ) with Matt Black heat resistant paint, spray paint.
Hope the above ramblings are of interest. I hope I don't have to tackle the filter !
Update No3
So having rested battered hands finally did tackle the OCV filter.
Auxiliary belt off
Alternator pushed forward
Dipstick tube moved
Medium extension with U/J and 3/8 drive socket
Urikea got the bolt out!
Now for the bomb shell.....there's no filter. Tweezers, small mirror, definitely no filter and no sign of any remnants.
Getting one ordered.
Perhaps that explains why the problem.......debris getting thro to the OCV.
Anyone know who will stock a filter.
@Onion 86 thanks for the link for the magnetic pick up tool and claw
I would imagine just going to your local Mr T parts dept is your best bet.
Quote from: Elektronic on September 18, 2019, 12:15Update No3
So having rested battered hands finally did tackle the OCV filter.
Auxiliary belt off
Alternator pushed forward
Dipstick tube moved
Medium extension with U/J and 3/8 drive socket
Urikea got the bolt out!
Now for the bomb shell.....there's no filter. Tweezers, small mirror, definitely no filter and no sign of any remnants.
Getting one ordered.
Perhaps that explains why the problem.......debris getting thro to the OCV.
Anyone know who will stock a filter.
@Onion 86 thanks for the link for the magnetic pick up tool and claw
I've got a couple. You can have one.
PM me with your address.
You may want to do an engine flush to see if you can clean out the VVTI system.
Update No 4
So after x 2 engine flushes, plus OCV/filter/oil changes the dreaded 1349 code appears as soon as the engine is truly hot.
@Carolyn /@Onion 86. Is replacement of the VVTI mechanism as straight forward as your write ups suggest. Comments thoughts from anyone welcome.
Meanwhile its one for the list of todo's after Christmas.
Quote from: Elektronic on December 8, 2019, 15:15Update No 4
So after x 2 engine flushes, plus OCV/filter/oil changes the dreaded 1349 code appears as soon as the engine is truly hot.
@Carolyn /@Onion 86. Is replacement of the VVTI mechanism as straight forward as your write ups suggest. Comments thoughts from anyone welcome.
Meanwhile its one for the list of todo's after Christmas.
If you've not done it before, you just want to take it very slow and steady. Mark the chain so it lines up with the locked groove on the top of the vvti hub and mark the chain and exhaust sprocket - makes timing so much easier. You can do it. And if you get stuck, there's plenty of assistance available.
Main thing is - there's no prizes for doing it quick.
Will respond properly when I get home may have a couple of useful articles.
@Carolyn Thanks for the words of encouragement.....I will take heed and take it slowly.
@Elektronic Have you absolutely ruled everything else out?
The diagnostic process leaves replacement till the very end, it starts with valve timing. Has this been checked?
I have attached the diagnostic process and some articles on the VVTi in the following link.
https://ln.sync.com/dl/2de74e620/snnbww53-susyh4by-wg4dxtby-bb7v8k8s
Quote from: Elektronic on December 8, 2019, 18:28@Carolyn
Thanks for the words of encouragement.....I will take heed and take it slowly.
When you get the valve cover off, I'll talk you through checking the timing. I'll be very surprised if it's off, though.
@Carolyn I agree with you, I would normally be surprised, as not the sort of thing that comes up very often.
My thoughts are, collectively we have little to no history.
I find it concerning
@Elektronic found there was no OCV filter.
Suggests unknown work has already been carried out prior to ownership.
Has someone already been in there? A link out?
Not everyone is as meticulous as you. A whole filter missing, so a link here or there....
So I am thinking start with the basics.
Now who did I pick that up from. ;)
Quote from: Ardent on December 8, 2019, 20:46@Carolyn
I agree with you, I would normally be surprised, as not the sort of thing that comes up very often.
My thoughts are, collectively we have little to no history.
I find it concerning @Elektronic found there was no OCV filter.
Suggests unknown work has already been carried out prior to ownership.
Has someone already been in there? A link out?
Not everyone is as meticulous as you. A whole filter missing, so a link here or there....
So I am thinking start with the basics.
Now who did I pick that up from. ;)
Good point. Could have been messed with.
I created a one tooth out timing problem when I had my cams out. Alert didn't fire for at least 500 miles. Cleared it thinking it was a stretched old chain. Didn't show up for another few hundred miles. In the end it was showing up every ten miles. Took cam cover off and checked with a straight edge and it was off by one. Fixed it reasonably easily and now no more error.
For me, I lined up the crank marker first, then checked cam markers. Exhaust cam was in line with edge of the timing cover (use a piece of card or metal ruler to check this). Inlet cam was below timing cover edge and it all looked out by one tooth.
Amazing really as when committing the error, it was checked multiple times and looked bang on ... so yea, it's quite easy to put it back wrong!
Quote from: househead on December 9, 2019, 11:00I created a one tooth out timing problem when I had my cams out. Alert didn't fire for at least 500 miles. Cleared it thinking it was a stretched old chain. Didn't show up for another few hundred miles. In the end it was showing up every ten miles. Took cam cover off and checked with a straight edge and it was off by one. Fixed it reasonably easily and now no more error.
For me, I lined up the crank marker first, then checked cam markers. Exhaust cam was in line with edge of the timing cover (use a piece of card or metal ruler to check this). Inlet cam was below timing cover edge and it all looked out by one tooth.
Amazing really as when committing the error, it was checked multiple times and looked bang on ... so yea, it's quite easy to put it back wrong!
There's quite a knack to getting everything back in and maintaining tension across the top of the camshaft sprockets for sure. You need to have some slack to be able to lay the camshafts in place while at the same time slightly rotating the shaft to put the tension in across the top. All good fun!
Update 5
Thankyou
@Carolyn/Ardent/househead/Call the midlife.
The cam cover is off. TDC mark on the crankshaft shows the camshaft sprockets are out by 0.5 to 1.0 tooth.
2870BC76-347F-44E2-87EA-A7CBB51FADC6.jpeg09E0CBE0-386C-4BEA-9D43-21A3790F6DB2.jpeg17D115B0-9058-4084-B673-B6A2C1A869CF.jpeg09E0CBE0-386C-4BEA-9D43-21A3790F6DB2.jpeg
I don't know if the jpegs have uploaded OK.
@ househead using your method of a straight edge to get the marks on the sprockets aligned the crankshaft is circa 5 to 10 degree BTDC
@call the midlife, picking up your point about having enough slack between the 2 camshaft sprockets. Depending whether or not i loaded the chain by ( rotating back and forth ) i can see about 1 chain link of slack.
I note from other How To's that the chain tensioner relaxes when there is no oil pressure. Is this correct ?
Meanwhile, how to determine the correct camshaft position.
Looking at the exhaust the marker is appprox 2 mins before 12 from the vertical. The inlet is approx 2/5 mins past 12 from the vertical.
The groove on the inlet is aligned, does that mean the exhaust has moved.
Any comment or observation would be most welcome.
Position the crank at 0 degrees. (TDC on #1). Wind the engine clockwise to get to this poition.. If you go past, wind the engine back past the TDC mark and wind clockwise again to align. This gets the chain tension in the right place.
Then place the straight edge on the top of the timing cover and get its tip close to the sprockets.
Take a pic.
The photos definitely look to me more like 0.5 teeth out than a full one, but that can't be possible, can it? Mine looked a lot more stark and obvious. Are the photos taken with the crank out by 5-10deg or with the crank marker at 0deg?
Ignoring the crank marker (which is unlikely to be wrong unless that's been out)... The marks on the cams should line up both with each other *and* both line up with the timing cover case edge. If you line up the crank marker and then one of your cams is in line with the timing cover but the other isn't, then I'd say that's bang to rights for the cam that isn't in line with the timing cover for being the one that's out.
Without the crank being exactly at TDC, the photos tell you nothing that is accurate or definitive.
Make sure the crank is positioned properly, use a small straight-edge and take a pic. Then we'll KNOW!
Half a tooth is possible - but not likely. That WOULD be a very stretched chain. But that's all speculation.....
The crank marker CAN'T be out. IT's keyed to the crankshaft. Absolutely reliable.
Quote from: Elektronic on December 10, 2019, 17:55Update 5
Thankyou @Carolyn/Ardent/househead/Call the midlife.
The cam cover is off. TDC mark on the crankshaft shows the camshaft sprockets are out by 0.5 to 1.0 tooth.
2870BC76-347F-44E2-87EA-A7CBB51FADC6.jpeg09E0CBE0-386C-4BEA-9D43-21A3790F6DB2.jpeg17D115B0-9058-4084-B673-B6A2C1A869CF.jpeg09E0CBE0-386C-4BEA-9D43-21A3790F6DB2.jpeg
I don't know if the jpegs have uploaded OK.
@ househead using your method of a straight edge to get the marks on the sprockets aligned the crankshaft is circa 5 to 10 degree BTDC
@call the midlife, picking up your point about having enough slack between the 2 camshaft sprockets. Depending whether or not i loaded the chain by ( rotating back and forth ) i can see about 1 chain link of slack.
I note from other How To's that the chain tensioner relaxes when there is no oil pressure. Is this correct ?
Meanwhile, how to determine the correct camshaft position.
Looking at the exhaust the marker is appprox 2 mins before 12 from the vertical. The inlet is approx 2/5 mins past 12 from the vertical.
The groove on the inlet is aligned, does that mean the exhaust has moved.
Any comment or observation would be most welcome.
Sorry, just to clarify any possible confusion over my previous comment in reply to Househead. I was relating to the technique at reassembly rather than a fully assembled, "timed" engine.
You'll understand more when you come to reassemble your own, as it's a complete chain you have to feed the sprockets under it and then rotate them into place. But at the same time have enough play to get the cams/sprocket tightened in.
You're looking for a nice, taught chain across the top of the sprockets and down and around the crankshaft with the only play being on the chain tensioner side.
Looking at yours and the potential lack of OC filter it wouldn't surprise me if someone hasn't already had it in bits and thrown it back together. I wonder if the chain tensioner hasn't been engaged the first time it was turned over? Fairly sure that would've caused more damage but I'm sure someone will come along and confirm that.
Midlife and Househead:
Pleas just let me talk the poor guy through it properly?
You're both clouding the matter..... >:(
Quote from: Carolyn on December 10, 2019, 18:36Midlife and Househead:
Pleas just let me talk the poor guy through it properly?
You're both clouding the matter..... >:(
Noted. Query the pen mark under his thumb on the exhaust sprocket.
Quote from: Call the midlife! on December 10, 2019, 18:44Quote from: Carolyn on December 10, 2019, 18:36Midlife and Househead:
Pleas just let me talk the poor guy through it properly?
You're both clouding the matter..... >:(
Noted. Query the pen mark under his thumb on the exhaust sprocket.
He was advised to mark the chain and sprockets in case the cams have to be lifted. Just keeps it simple....
Bit late to this one today as have been sorting out MOT on Alexa.
My 2p,
@Elektronic listen to the words of a master.
Carolyn has done this countless times and I've had the pleasure of watching her at work on my own car.
My car, your car, her car. TDC was established 1st.
No TDC. No point.
@Carolyn As suggested engine set up exactly TDC rotating clockwise. Chain is tight between camshafts.
The timing marks are now aligned, as they say my bad for previous attempts93DCFEC6-6D3A-4C45-98CD-1E0FEA6CF096.jpeg08FE9076-A918-4990-BD23-01B518616EC3.jpeg
Comments/ next steps welcome
Please take a pic of the groove in the top of the VVTI hub.
Now we've ruled out cam timing, we are left with two possibilities.
1) The VVTI hub is not doing what it's told. (Gunked or damaged inside).
or
2) The VVTI hub is not being told what to do.
Two sensors have input on the behaviour of the VVTI system. The crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensor.
Problems with the crankshaft sensor are (95% of the time) down to a poor earth on the timing cover. I'd disconnect the earth, give it all a thorough clean to bright metal and put it back.
The camshaft sensor could be an earth problem (on the side on the cylinder head, or they have been known to fail.
If you PM me, I'll send you a used sensor (I think I can find one) so you can do a swap-out and see what effect it has. I've probably got at least one of each....
If none of the sensor stuff does the trick....it's time to change the VVTI hub.
@Carolyn Pics of the VVTI groove. Will attend to the earths as you suggest. 4A376EB7-7DC0-4FF4-ACC7-5DC839D24028.jpegF8A99E4D-5BEC-4356-8CC0-635032E11BA2.jpeg
Ok, thee grooves are lined up... that's a good thing....
The difference I see after reading through is that my code came on after 10s if not 100s of miles and yours is coming back *very* quickly. Just a thought, you mentioned right at the start that the 12v on the old OCV worked, but was that just whilst it was out? Did you also apply 12v whilst it was in the car whilst idling to check it was invoking the VVT? I expect if it's permanently bunged up then it won't work.
The fact you didn't have a filter does make me think you may have a foreign object in there after all Carolyn's help.
If you've seen what some of the filters look like when people have changed them then they certainly stop a lot of crap. In the end, I did replace my VVT hub, but the one i took out wasn't the original either, so someone had tried to fix it prior to selling me the car 8 years ago. I found a couple of small bits of fiberglass type material in the oil when I took the cam cover off, so my issue could've been that. 4.5k miles since the replacement last year and all is still good for me.
Hi Onion
True I haven't tested the OCV with 12 v in situ. However the car does start easily, idles OK, settles down from the 1800rpm cold start to 850 rpm no problem.
Since my original posting I've test run numerous times, just last week a matter of a few miles. Earlier this week all seemed fine. Left it for a heat soak after a run. Continued, all ok, then after some heavy traffic, dreaded warning light. So now the light comes on at random mileages.
Ive become redesigned to having to do the VVTI mechanism. ( although not looking forward to it )Just going to try the Cam sensor in one last remedy.
Meanwhile. X2 engine flushes, 3 oil changes, new OCV, OCV filter fitted, sensor earths cleaned.
Thanks for your comments
Quote from: Elektronic on December 19, 2019, 15:38True I haven't tested the OCV with 12 v in situ. However the car does start easily, idles OK, settles down from the 1800rpm cold start to 850 rpm no problem.
If you've not done that then I'd definitely suggest it. Disconnect the connector on the OCV and start the car. Once the idle settles down then apply 12v to the OCV. That should then open the OCV, let the oil through to open the VVT hub and make the car run rough and / or stall. If it doesn't then that points that either you have a blockage between the OCV and hub, or the hub isn't working properly, as per Carolyn's earlier 2 points:
Quote from: Carolyn1) The VVTI hub is not doing what it's told. (Gunked or damaged inside).
or
2) The VVTI hub is not being told what to do.
The OCV isn't going to ever be engaged when the car is running normally at idle, that's going to be down the the IACV.
@onion86 I will do as you suggest. My comment about the OK idle was made because i had assumed the VVTI advanced at start up.
Anyway will follow the steps you have outlined.
Thank you
Update:
Applied 12v to OCV in situ. No real discernible change in idle, but rushing /chain noise with a very slight change in idle.
Thought I would exchange the cam sensor as the 12v to the OCV didn't seem definitive.
I now have P1656 . The warning light illuminates as soon as I start up.
Could I have caused damage to OCV windings ( its difficult to get the probes onto the OCV pins ). Or worse still damaged the ECM.
I guess its substitute the OCV first ?
Anyone know a good mechanic in the Leicester area !
Quote from: Elektronic on December 28, 2019, 15:52Update:
Applied 12v to OCV in situ. No real discernible change in idle, but rushing /chain noise with a very slight change in idle.
Thought I would exchange the cam sensor as the 12v to the OCV didn't seem definitive.
I now have P1656 . The warning light illuminates as soon as I start up.
Could I have caused damage to OCV windings ( its difficult to get the probes onto the OCV pins ). Or worse still damaged the ECM.
I guess its substitute the OCV first ?
Anyone know a good mechanic in the Leicester area !
Read this: https://www.engine-codes.com/p1656_toyota.html
probably a bent pin in the connector.
Original problem is almost certainly the hub.
Quote from: Carolyn on December 28, 2019, 16:07Quote from: Elektronic on December 28, 2019, 15:52Update:
Applied 12v to OCV in situ. No real discernible change in idle, but rushing /chain noise with a very slight change in idle.
Thought I would exchange the cam sensor as the 12v to the OCV didn't seem definitive.
I now have P1656 . The warning light illuminates as soon as I start up.
Could I have caused damage to OCV windings ( its difficult to get the probes onto the OCV pins ). Or worse still damaged the ECM.
I guess its substitute the OCV first ?
Anyone know a good mechanic in the Leicester area !
Read this: https://www.engine-codes.com/p1656_toyota.html
probably a bent pin in the connector.
Original problem is almost certainly the hub.
If no obviously bent pin at the ECU, continuity at the ecu end of the loom would be a good test.
Quote from: jonbill on December 28, 2019, 17:22Quote from: Carolyn on December 28, 2019, 16:07Quote from: Elektronic on December 28, 2019, 15:52Update:
Applied 12v to OCV in situ. No real discernible change in idle, but rushing /chain noise with a very slight change in idle.
Thought I would exchange the cam sensor as the 12v to the OCV didn't seem definitive.
I now have P1656 . The warning light illuminates as soon as I start up.
Could I have caused damage to OCV windings ( its difficult to get the probes onto the OCV pins ). Or worse still damaged the ECM.
I guess its substitute the OCV first ?
Anyone know a good mechanic in the Leicester area !
Read this: https://www.engine-codes.com/p1656_toyota.html
probably a bent pin in the connector.
Original problem is almost certainly the hub.
If no obviously bent pin at the ECU, continuity at the ecu end of the loom would be a good test.
I meant pin at the other end.... at the valve. It's been disconnected and reconnected a few times, it seems.
Quote from: jonbill on December 28, 2019, 17:22Quote from: Carolyn on December 28, 2019, 16:07Quote from: Elektronic on December 28, 2019, 15:52Update:
Applied 12v to OCV in situ. No real discernible change in idle, but rushing /chain noise with a very slight change in idle.
Thought I would exchange the cam sensor as the 12v to the OCV didn't seem definitive.
I now have P1656 . The warning light illuminates as soon as I start up.
Could I have caused damage to OCV windings ( its difficult to get the probes onto the OCV pins ). Or worse still damaged the ECM.
I guess its substitute the OCV first ?
Anyone know a good mechanic in the Leicester area !
Read this: https://www.engine-codes.com/p1656_toyota.html
probably a bent pin in the connector.
Original problem is almost certainly the hub.
If no obviously bent pin at the ECU, continuity at the ecu end of the loom would be a good test.
Considering that the OCV has been replaced and then disconnected and re-connected, I would think it's most likely that a continuity problem has been created at the valve connection.
Putting 12v through it should be harmless, and the ECU won't have been 'in touch' with the valve at the time, so damage there is improbable.
Quote from: Elektronic on December 28, 2019, 15:52Update:
Applied 12v to OCV in situ. No real discernible change in idle, but rushing /chain noise with a very slight change in idle.
Anyone know a good mechanic in the Leicester area !
Part 1.
If I recall, you have replaced the OCV, if that is working properly and you put the 12v across it, ideally you are looking for the engine to stall if the controller is working.
As
@Carolyn said, it is sadly increasingly looking like the vvti itself. Rare indeed, but given the "unknown" work that has gone before, who knows.
Part 2
Living in Leicester, you and I are very lucky, that there is a fantastic local diagnostic mechanic. Sadly, for you, me and everyone else, he himself is out of commission. This is the sort of thing he revels in.
He is a full fat, Toyota trained master technician.
@Carolyn @ ARDENT,
Thanks for the comments. Ill look closely at the OCV terminals and connector.
Hopefully get that fixed. The VVTI unit will be a project for the new year.
@ ARDENT, do you know of D1 Customs Toyota in Loughborough, allegedly he specialises in MR2.
Sadly he is the chap I was referring to.
Top bloke.
Was involved in an accident.
Recovery is taking longer then we hoped.
Update
A long update for fellow Newbies !
Yes it seems i did bend one of the OCV pins trying to get a 12v feed working effectively blind. Decided to start again, out with the OCV, fitted made up leads with the correct size lucars. Interestingly with 12v correctly applied definite clicking noise from the OCV or VVTI hub. Clicking continued for about 10 secs. Engine then stumbled and stalled.
Restarted engine applied 12v, again stalled, repeated.
With the original camshaft sensor fitted , lasted about 8 miles before the dreaded warning light. Fitted substitute camshaft sensor, replicated high load high speed and low speed trying to get the OCV to open under all conditions.
So far no warning light.
Will continue to run the car until ( or IF !! ) the warning light returns. Then will tackle the hub unit.
Of note was the fact when removing the OCV to remove the lucars, oil surrounding the OCV was clean/clear. Also the clicking, was not my imagination. Did I read correctly somewhere there is a detent spring which locks the hub unit, oil pressure has to then overcome that spring allow the appropriate advance/retard ?
Quote from: Elektronic on January 8, 2020, 16:13Update
A long update for fellow Newbies !
Yes it seems i did bend one of the OCV pins trying to get a 12v feed working effectively blind. Decided to start again, out with the OCV, fitted made up leads with the correct size lucars. Interestingly with 12v correctly applied definite clicking noise from the OCV or VVTI hub. Clicking continued for about 10 secs. Engine then stumbled and stalled.
Restarted engine applied 12v, again stalled, repeated.
With the original camshaft sensor fitted , lasted about 8 miles before the dreaded warning light. Fitted substitute camshaft sensor, replicated high load high speed and low speed trying to get the OCV to open under all conditions.
So far no warning light.
Will continue to run the car until ( or IF !! ) the warning light returns. Then will tackle the hub unit.
Of note was the fact when removing the OCV to remove the lucars, oil surrounding the OCV was clean/clear. Also the clicking, was not my imagination. Did I read correctly somewhere there is a detent spring which locks the hub unit, oil pressure has to then overcome that spring allow the appropriate advance/retard ?
Yes, there is a spring-loaded locking pin operated by oil pressure.
Looks like it was the cam sensor. If the light stays away and the car runs fine. That should be all you need to do.
I'd like to have the cranskhaft sensor back, please.
Quote from: Elektronic on January 8, 2020, 16:13Update
A long update for fellow Newbies !
Yes it seems i did bend one of the OCV pins trying to get a 12v feed working effectively blind. Decided to start again, out with the OCV, fitted made up leads with the correct size lucars. Interestingly with 12v correctly applied definite clicking noise from the OCV or VVTI hub. Clicking continued for about 10 secs. Engine then stumbled and stalled.
Restarted engine applied 12v, again stalled, repeated.
With the original camshaft sensor fitted , lasted about 8 miles before the dreaded warning light. Fitted substitute camshaft sensor, replicated high load high speed and low speed trying to get the OCV to open under all conditions.
So far no warning light.
Will continue to run the car until ( or IF !! ) the warning light returns. Then will tackle the hub unit.
Of note was the fact when removing the OCV to remove the lucars, oil surrounding the OCV was clean/clear. Also the clicking, was not my imagination. Did I read correctly somewhere there is a detent spring which locks the hub unit, oil pressure has to then overcome that spring allow the appropriate advance/retard ?
Great news.
Stumble and stalling is what you want to happen.
As per
@Carolyn looks like you make have cracked it. You have proven the hub works.
As towards the top of this thread (I think this one) it is unusual for the vvt to fail.
Get out and enjoy.
@Carolyn @ Ardent
Thanks for your encouragement, yes will now enjoy.
Of course will return the crank sensor.
It's back, the dreaded P1349. After over a month of freedom it returns.I have cleared the code just in case but it returns. Whats baffling is that it clearly works some times during a journey. Ive proved that with 12v direct to the OCV it works. To those move experienced with the VVT hub, can it stick or be sluggish ?
I fear i will have to change the hub unit. Thoughts anyone ?
Quote from: Elektronic on March 3, 2020, 13:08It's back, the dreaded P1349. After over a month of freedom it returns.I have cleared the code just in case but it returns. Whats baffling is that it clearly works some times during a journey. Ive proved that with 12v direct to the OCV it works. To those move experienced with the VVT hub, can it stick or be sluggish ?
I fear i will have to change the hub unit. Thoughts anyone ?
It's all that's left to consider, I'm afraid. It's a mechanical device and therefore, can misbehave.