I thought i'd better start a new readers ride as the old one is a really out of date now!
In 2015 we bought the car for the Mrs as a daily which ended up in someones garden via the fence
(https://i.imgur.com/GLEkGikm.jpg)
Quick trip here
(https://i.imgur.com/sfY3SPRm.jpg)
and it was back to normal
(https://i.imgur.com/D5RLx8Qm.jpg)
Then this happened along with a front side swipe on a roundabout
(https://i.imgur.com/T19VlcIm.jpg)
and the Mrs decided she didn't want to drive it anymore so she nicked my Subaru Outback and I was using the MR2
Having raced and rallied over the years I thought about a return so sent it to JP Cages for a half cage
(https://i.imgur.com/ncvkrKqm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YIm32o0m.jpg)
While it was there the worst happened and I had a heart attack - who'd have thought it at 47 but hey ho!
Apologies for the following if anyones squeamish but this is my heart pre and post op!
(https://i.imgur.com/mxvdz2Nm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yzkWfk3m.jpg)
Things on hold for a bit whilst trying to convince the MSA that I had to take a substance for my health that is on the banned list for sports.
Eventually they agreed and issued my license!
I also needed a tow vehicle and new trailer so bought a camper (which has now been half way round Europe as well)
(https://i.imgur.com/k0LQTWqm.jpg)
and trailer
(https://i.imgur.com/pqjrXjKm.jpg)
I was on the lookout for some TTE lowering springs as in the standard class you are allowed factory / dealer options as well as the safety upgrades. A pair of buckets and harnesses were bought, racesuit, gloves, boots and after asking for vouchers for Demon Tweeks for Christmas a new helmet.
I had planned to have a year in standard then move up a class to roadgoing which allows most mods but the engine / box etc has to be original but again any of the dealer options are allowed.
Earlier this year while sat on a campsite in France browsing marketplace (which is really dangerous), a set of TTE springs came up but they were attached to this
(https://i.imgur.com/myaB0nhm.jpg)
The advantage was it also has this
(https://i.imgur.com/pTbRvAHm.jpg)
Some of you may remember it as it was a build on here a long time ago but doesn't look like it's turned a wheel since.
Both wouldn't fit on the drive so I rented a small unit and started swapping the suspension over and also bought new bushes (standard)
I had thought about building the new car into the roadgoing class car but having had it up in the air i'm not sure the shell is salvageable. It's in much worse nick than my other one which is bordering on immaculate underneath.
I'll get some more updates up in due course
Wow. Hell of a story!
Hope your ticker is doing a bit better now. Certainly looks like the stent did its job
It's all just set me back time wise but we will get there!
Tickers great thanks - I didn't even know i'd had the heart attack until the next day but yes it definitely did!!
Good find
This is the turbo kit the new one has on it
https://www.mr2oc.com/66-spyder-turbos-engine-swaps/329306-mvp-install-power-enterprise-turbo-kit.html
and the difference in the 2 front bays
(https://i.imgur.com/amXcaurl.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/weIpCnUl.jpg)
There's so much more rust on the turbo car - same underneath!
It may just be figures quoted etc and the difference between whp and bhp not being treated the same, but I see a lot of US spyder making 200 whp on just 6-7psi.
There's a red one on YouTube at the moment making 217whp at 7psi, hakosan I think his username is. Standard mwr kit with intercooler as far as I can see.
I'm at 198bhp at the wheels, and to be honest wouldn't want much more for b road blasting.
Great to see another turbo build, perhaps sort a club rolling road day in the future?
Quote from: Gaz2405 on September 29, 2019, 16:43It may just be figures quoted etc and the difference between whp and bhp not being treated the same, but I see a lot of US spyder making 200 whp on just 6-7psi.
There's a red one on YouTube at the moment making 217whp at 7psi, hakosan I think his username is. Standard mwr kit with intercooler as far as I can see.
I'm at 198bhp at the wheels, and to be honest wouldn't want much more for b road blasting.
Great to see another turbo build, perhaps sort a club rolling road day in the future?
I do take some of these figures with a pinch of salt at times - 192whp from this kit with standard ecu and rising fuel pressure regulator with no extra cooling seems way too high - possibly 160 at the wheels at best!
I still need to race the car in standard class n/a so the turbo will take a while - possibly the end of next season when I swap it all over.
I bought this car so cheap i'm planning on keeping it that way (for the time being).
I also picked up a JDM box with LSD a while ago so that will go on when I make the swap.
That gives me a year to pick up braces, roll bars, coilovers (XYZ's are the top of my list at the minute), test 17" rims then decide on 1b tyres + possibly add a front to the cage and get lighter seats - you get the picture
(https://i.imgur.com/MGaIR0Ml.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AltyOwPl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RQpUQ0Ol.jpg)
Had a couple of hours this aft swapping things over - should be back running next time I get to the unit!
So i finally got the car out of the unit last night and took it to work today - what a difference!
Apart from the TTE springs and low mileage shocks all the replacement parts are standard but new - drop links front and rear, anti roll bar bushes, control arms, track rod ends and also a facelift front lower brace!
It almost feels like a new car and i've not had the geo done yet, I did a best educated guess - there's a roundabout on the way home with a hole you can't avoid half way round. It used to skip and jump when I hit it but not now - it just didn't bother it at all!! Also, no creaks, bangs, knocks etc etc
I know this is a hillclimb car but it does have to be completely standard mechanically (until I swap the turbo in and then i will polybush, coilover, every brace known to man etc and move up a class)
So the morale to the story is if you want your car to feel very very refreshed without polybushing and coilovers just replace everything as new! It's night and day
Nice one mate!
I thought the bushes couldn't be bought individually... did you installed new arms?
I did Gaetan, new Yaris arms and then all the other bits - I'll do the door bushings next! Still not sure how much difference they'll make as I have the rear cage but we'll see!!
Nice. thumbs up emoji if we had one.
Quote from: Ardent on February 25, 2020, 22:10Nice. thumbs up emoji if we had one.
As "someone" sometimes says " Here to help"
👍 or for the continental membership 👌
Quote from: tets on October 20, 2019, 15:59(https://i.imgur.com/MGaIR0Ml.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AltyOwPl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RQpUQ0Ol.jpg)
Had a couple of hours this aft swapping things over - should be back running next time I get to the unit!
Ah, garage envy.
Glad to see you've been mended yourself.
& er, yeah, garage envy...
Ah, garage envy.
Glad to see you've been mended yourself.
& er, yeah, garage envy...
[/quote]
Cheers but the problem is it's not big enough - I have the cars in but can't fit my camper or trailer in!! Looking at a bigger unit at the minute but it's a bit costly!!
Quote from: tets on February 26, 2020, 16:16Ah, garage envy.
Glad to see you've been mended yourself.
& er, yeah, garage envy...
Cheers but the problem is it's not big enough - I have the cars in but can't fit my camper or trailer in!! Looking at a bigger unit at the minute but it's a bit costly!!
[/quote]
Costly also would be a car lift (or two) but would be a resalable asset rather than additional rental, here is a review of pros and cons of two and four post lifts.
https://procarreviews.com/best-car-lift/
Costly also would be a car lift (or two) but would be a resalable asset rather than additional rental, here is a review of pros and cons of two and four post lifts.
https://procarreviews.com/best-car-lift/
[/quote]
I'd love one but unfortunately there is a dog leg in the entrance that ensures neither will fit in. If I can get a bigger unit i'll get one anyway as i'm sick of crawling round on the floor!!
How much was the JP half cage?
Quote from: Mark A on February 26, 2020, 19:25How much was the JP half cage?
I think it was £450 fitted from the top of my head - I did get a bit of a deal as he used it to make the jig!
So with the season all but cancelled I'm now toying with the idea of doing the turbo swap early! I just need a couple of bits if I can get them.
I printed the PE turbo installation guide from the reference section to check the previous owner did it correctly when I refit it.
Even though i've just serviced it i reckon i'll need a new oil filter so I can fit the oil cooler and some new plugs.
In theory everything else should be ok to just swap over.
I just need to suss the fueling out as it has a modified fuel rail with a return which is leaking. Carolyn sent me a new o ring so if it is just that i'll keep it otherwise and stick with the stock one which the original kit used.
I also need a wideband and boost gauge and might aswell fit an oil pressure gauge while i'm fannying about in there!
Car looks great - do you happen to have the part numbers for the Yaris wishbones?
cheers, I don't have the part numbers but the link is here
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Toyota-Yaris-1999-2006-Lower-Front-Wishbones-Suspension-Arms-Pair/332659560803?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I've started doing the inventory based on the install guide and what I see in the pics I have.
i need a few more bits than I expected, some of which I seem to be able to get but it gives me enough to get going with.
I do have a question for the turbo guys - what (if anything) have you done with fueling, specifically the pump / regulator?
The kit I have removes the existing pressure regulator, from in the fuel pump, replaces it with with a replacement unknown part (as it doesn't seem to have a spec) other than it's a rising rate one - and the install looks like this from above
(http://i.imgur.com/sitZv64m.jpg) (https://imgur.com/sitZv64)
Now my kit has this
(http://i.imgur.com/GdlHS1km.jpg) (https://imgur.com/GdlHS1k)
I read back through
@Essex2Visuvesi original build and can't find reference to the fueling.
Also I need to fabricate a brace as they had problems with the manifolds cracking but any old pics of them have long since gone - long shot but don't suppose
@loadswine still has any pics of Perry's brace - the ones you posted are no longer showing?
I need to get to the unit and strip the interior to have a look in the tank but I don't think it will be classed as essential travel at the minute.
More to follow -
Looks like good progress.
Fuel reg/pump wise what are your plan for engine management and injectors etc ? these will determine what you need to do, ideally you want a proper ecu or at least a good piggyback, stock injectors will not make a lot of power unless you up the fuel pressure and make a return fuel rail system to do so, stock fuel rail is a returnless system so as you add boost fuel pressure doesnt rise like you get with a return setup and regulator, reading again sounds like maybe you have a return fuel rail ?
Ive messed about with unknown fuel regulators before on other cars and never again, nearly cost me an engine! best to use a proper setup as fueling is one of the most critical things!
Quote from: thetyrant on April 13, 2020, 10:57Looks like good progress.
Fuel reg/pump wise what are your plan for engine management and injectors etc ? these will determine what you need to do, ideally you want a proper ecu or at least a good piggyback, stock injectors will not make a lot of power unless you up the fuel pressure and make a return fuel rail system to do so, stock fuel rail is a returnless system so as you add boost fuel pressure doesnt rise like you get with a return setup and regulator, reading again sounds like maybe you have a return fuel rail ?
Ive messed about with unknown fuel regulators before on other cars and never again, nearly cost me an engine! best to use a proper setup as fueling is one of the most critical things!
The original PE Kit came with a rising rate pressure regulator from new which replaced the one in the tank. Obviously mine has the external one and yes, I have a return on the rail.
The original kit came with very little to be honest and used stock ECU, fuel rail, injectors etc - MWR reckoned about 50 WHP over stock which is the 1st pic
Over the original kit this one has an aftermarket wastegate with a 0.3 spring in (again I think from reading back), obviously the fuel regulator, oil cooler and straight through exhaust.
I do have a unichip with boost controller ready to fit and there's a Dastek tuner who is very reputable down the road which albeit not the best available would do until I decide to upgrade bits.
I won't run it until i've got a wideband and i've found a boost gauge with a digital display that you can set an alarm at a certain level which I like the sound of.
The thing I do like about this set up (albeit old tech) is that it boosts virtually straight away and and is producing full boost at just over 3ooo rpm.
I'm not aiming for bhp figures here but low down laggless grunt. I really need an intercooler and I need really short pipes again to avoid lag but there's loads of room where the exhaust would normally be so no problem fitting that and the oil cooler there. Simple heat shield between the turbo and intercooler should be easy.
Ok sounds like it might be ok then and its just wether to run that unknown regulator i guess, as long as you have a wideband and can watch the fueling accurately it should be ok to at least try it.
Ive no experience of Unichip but if the mapper is confident he can work with it on a boosted setup that could be a cheap option, in my experience of other piggybacks you need to be cautious and always a bit of a compromise.
Boost wise the saab t25 on my sp240 kit is very responsive even with the small intercooler setup, easily at full boost by 3k as well, not having an intercooler you will struggle with intake temps massively especially on warm days, ive found mine works ok for road and short bursts on track 1-2 laps @ 5psi and think it would of been ok for sprints if i had chance to try it! Im now removing my kit due to engine health issues :(
Yeah, thats the only do i / don't i bit of it! With the wideband as you say, I can check it easily. The mapper is a race engineer called Ric Wood that comes highly recommended so i'd like to think he'll be fine.
I re read the figures and it comes on boost at 1300 rpm and hit's full at 2700 rpm so just under 3k which is perfect for getting it out of the hairpins.
I think an intercooler will be fine with a heat shield and the rear lid guard thingy removed for 1 or 2 lap sprints and a mile up a hill!
Just waiting for my compression tester to turn up and i'll check the current car. I do still have the option to drop the whole lot and swap everything if I need to. I'm not doing the clutch just yet as I have a Jap box to open up and check over so will do this at the same time.
Bits are ordered so as soon as I can get out and they arrive we'll crack on!
A quick question for the turbo guys - I currently use Shell Helix Ultra Pro 5W-30 and although I only did an change a few hundred miles ago i'll be changing it again along with the filter - Is there a better oil for turbo's and also with a turbo and oil cooler what is the rough extra needed?
cheers
Steve
well after a crap summer (apart from 3 weeks in Provence), redundancy from the day job and taking the part time business full time I finally managed half a day at the unit yesterday.
(https://i.imgur.com/KetdNvGl.jpg)
Started stripping and test fitting some of the turbo bits.
(https://i.imgur.com/K8jmbRXl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OLxK1gil.jpg)
The subframe is coming off so I can strengthen it in the middle (centre exhaust runs inbetween the bottom arm mounts). I have whiteline anti roll bars on the way, polybushes are here as are camber bolts. I met up with Steve Norris on the way back from France and picked up a centre brace aswell. Got a new oil filter from Toyota and 5 litres of the Shell Helix (already have a litre) so should be plenty.
(https://i.imgur.com/jdZkoO2l.jpg)
Got a slight dilema as i'm not sure whether to swap the JDM gearbox and kevlar clutch in now or hang on as there's a guy in Birmingham that will do a clutch change for 100 and odd quid labour.
I'm on my own, on the floor and I sort of don't fancy it if i'm honest!!
(https://i.imgur.com/4ZPnL0yl.jpg)
I'm going to make a new rear crash bar that doubles as a mount for the oil cooler and anything else i might need to mount in future.
I'm also thinking about moving the battery to give better airflow into the engine bay but i'll have a better look at that next time.
Sounds like you've had a tough few months... glad to see you've been able to get some time on the car, always good medicine!
Quote from: AdamR28 on October 6, 2020, 09:44Sounds like you've had a tough few months... glad to see you've been able to get some time on the car, always good medicine!
Yeah, it's always good to get some me time in! Hopefully get a day on it over the weekend which should see more progress.
Next plan is to get the subframe strengthened and painted and set about polybushing and painting the arms.
Never done my own polybushing before but ive got a big vice and an plethora of swear words saved up!
Haha, sounds like you have the main 'tool'...
If you have a blowtorch, you can burn the old rubber bushes and centre sleeve out quite successfully like that, then give the outer sleeve a lick with the die grinder to release it from the arm / knuckle.
i'd actually thought about making a "press" for the vice - easy enough for getting the new ones in.
Do you know if the old outer sleeve is steel or alloy? If it's steel I was thinking of pressing the old rubber out and just welding a bit of bar inside and press that out.
If not, die grinder / hacksaw it is!
Normally steel, I've never done an alloy one that's for sure.
Some welding / heating / giving yourself something meatier / easier to press on would work well I reckon!
Getting polybushes in is dead easy yeah, a light squeeze with vice is plenty.
They were my thoughts - getting the press set before the welds cool down should be a billy bonus!
I also thought about using my gear puller but i'll suss it out at weekend!
I watched a vid on getting them in and that looks dead easy
had what I thought was a free day yesterday so to the unit - i'd soaked all of the nuts and bolts last weekend.
Buzz gun out and lower and toe arm bolts buzzed off, subframe bolts also moved fine.
Front trailing arm wouldn't budge on either side, either bolt!! started on the drivers side and removed disc, caliper and dust shield - couldn't get enough leverage on the bolt end so ended up having to try and shift the nut - Teng strongbar with a meter long scaffold bar and it went - same on the front nut so eventually off!
Back to the toe arm and I couldn't split the ball joint - 1st one that's ever beaten me. I have always used a bar to put pressure on the nut and a big hammer but this isn't moving. The father in law has a splitter so onto the next job.
Front trailing arm in the pillar drill, small drill and perforate the rubber in the bush - In the vice with a massive socket on one side and 13mm on the other and wind the vice in - split 1st go. Outer sleeve I thought i'd weld it but i've got a electric saw with metal blade so cut through top and bottom and it knocked out easily! cleaned arm up ready for paint. Didn't know what to expect but it was a really easy job.
Was about to start the other side and got a text. I'd forgotten, I was supposed to pick something up for my sister in the van so had to call it a day!!
Today was more about stripping the turbo car to get to the fuel pump assembly and find out where the return feeds in. Plus a couple of people are wanting parts so got the seats out and ashtray bit!
I'd borrowed the splitter so hammered that on (it was a really tight fit), ratchet on and off we go - god it took some splitting but eventually went!
I'd nipped into the unit a couple of times to pick things up so each time i'd done a coat of primer, then paint so i thought i'd get the first polybush in ( I had some rattle cans left over from touching up the campers bumper so white it went)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZenoSNd.jpg?1)
Top tip - if you're cleaning up old suspension parts you'll notice the weapon of choice at the top of the pic - yep, a BBQ cleaner - scraper, wire brush and other thing on t'other side that does not a lot all in one!!
Back home now as i've a meeting tomorrow which could shape the next few months / years so need to prepare!!
Shiny! Good work.
Hope the meeting today goes as you hope.
meeting was great so it's the big wait now!
Looking forward to getting the rest of them done - quite like the white, might even do the subframe white as well seeing as my cage is white! Bit of a theme and all that!
Quote from: tets on October 25, 2020, 14:57Today was more about stripping the turbo car to get to the fuel pump assembly and find out where the return feeds in. Plus a couple of people are wanting parts so got the seats out and ashtray bit!
I'd borrowed the splitter so hammered that on (it was a really tight fit), ratchet on and off we go - god it took some splitting but eventually went!
I'd nipped into the unit a couple of times to pick things up so each time i'd done a coat of primer, then paint so i thought i'd get the first polybush in ( I had some rattle cans left over from touching up the campers bumper so white it went)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZenoSNd.jpg?1)
Top tip - if you're cleaning up old suspension parts you'll notice the weapon of choice at the top of the pic - yep, a BBQ cleaner - scraper, wire brush and other thing on t'other side that does not a lot all in one!!
Back home now as i've a meeting tomorrow which could shape the next few months / years so need to prepare!!
super pro there is nothing better epic work
Well the meeting in October went well and i'm doing a consultancy until the end of Feb - could go longer and could even end up permanent so all good on that point. Big problem is 12 hours a day out of the house and not much weekend time.
Anyway got a few hours in today
Below is a sort of pictured how to of removing bushes from the old arms ready for paint and polybush if you don't have a press. 10 minutes start to finish for removal - the superpro's also take about 5 minutes to fit. Worst job is getting the arms off - 4 went well - 2 really didn't!
(https://i.imgur.com/JBduOiLl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3MaHJABl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bonFfYGl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YDPSHRvl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1c3GFYol.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eEp8F7Cl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pefupKkl.jpg)
The vice is actually quite easy and not once did it look like jumping out - I'm not recommending this method for obvious reasons but it worked really well for me
Got the subframe off knowing it had a small hole - apart from that is really solid and was going to plate it anyway as the exhaust runs right next to the gearbox mount about 2cm from the subframe - It's getting repaired!
(https://i.imgur.com/J9DKu22l.jpg)
Wasn't going to put the JDM box and new clutch in yet but it's virtually stripped so I might as well have a go - Might try and enlist some help that particular weekend.
Got new discs and Yellow stuff ordered and the Whiteline's turned up so getting there - Not sure when i'll have more free time but today was really encouraging!
(https://i.imgur.com/UTQOfRpl.jpg)
@tetsI'm pleased for you that your meeting and subsequently went well.
iirc I remember seeing a picture of your BBQ cleaning brush in post #37 but it's disappeared now, so have any pictures you may have posted, with your most recent#41!
Quote from: Joesson on January 17, 2021, 17:17@tets
I'm pleased for you that your meeting and subsequently went well.
iirc I remember seeing a picture of your BBQ cleaning brush in post #37 but it's disappeared now, so have any pictures you may have posted, with your most recent#41!
thankyou and thats weird as they are still showing for me - unless IMGUR has gone the same way as the others recently!
Quote from: tets on January 17, 2021, 17:44Quote from: Joesson on January 17, 2021, 17:17@tets
I'm pleased for you that your meeting and subsequently went well.
iirc I remember seeing a picture of your BBQ cleaning brush in post #37 but it's disappeared now, so have any pictures you may have posted, with your most recent#41!
thankyou and thats weird as they are still showing for me - unless IMGUR has gone the same way as the others recently!
Very strange. I now " can see" that your earlier posts are also missing the photos.
But I can see photos posted today by
@Ardent of his thoroughly washed 2!
Some technological problem that I am less than qualified to overcome.
I used the attachments option here. So images are "here" rather than linked to externally.
quick update even though bugger all has happened at the unit due to working all the hours god sends!
Consultancy has been extended so thought i'd invest in some bits.
Paddle clutch kit to go with the JDM box and the offer of labour from Lewis (Roadster Sport) in exchange for the box and diff thats on the car - I have another spare so a no brainer.
New standard discs and yellow stuff pads will be here this week with the clutch.
New subframe courtesy of Dave on here. I was going to repair mine but one toe arm has welded itself to the bush sleeve and needs cutting out. Still pondering whether to paint it white!
Pair of 16" rear wheels so I can try the Extreme VR2 tyres that seem to be winning everything on the hills in the dry, got standard PFL 15's with rainsports for the wet. I do need to pick up another FL rear for the spare. Not sure if i'll need to go 205 front / 225 rear but we'll see later in the year.
Also got a set of 17's which I want to test at some point - many say they ruin the handling but on track bigger wheels must be workable otherwise they wouldn't be used. I'll have have plenty of adjustment to try!
If this work is extended i really think i'm going to try the BC ER's as i'm on standard struts with TTE springs at the minute. I'm still intent on trying the current set up and using the anti roll bars adjustment but don't think it will be stiff enough!
Sure i've missed something but next update will hopefully be more practical
So the clutch and JDM box went on today! Was a bit of a tw@
IMG_1898.jpg
was on the BC website earlier and the ER'S have gone from the listings - It's just BR, RM or DS now.
Pondering on the RM or K-Sports if anybody has any user ratings?
Started getting the back end together today plus stripped most of the turbo bits from the other car. Ordered new gaskets so should have a lot of it on in the next couple of weeks.
Got another couple of hours in today - rechecked all rear suspension and subframe nuts / bolts.
Gaskets arrived so the turbo was checked (a couple of loose bolts) tightened and fitted along with jacket - still unsure about the jacket
Oil drained ready for the new sump and everything sprayed with penetrating fluid!
Until next week....
a bit more progress this weekend. Got more bits on and it's beginning to look like an engine bay again
got a couple of hours in this morning as yesterdays plans were written off. A "quick trip" to the garden centre turned out to be half the day after the M60 was closed for 6 hours!
New brakes had arrived but today was only to get the sump bolts loose and measure up the pipes for the turbo, oil pressure and AFR gauges.
New brakes and super light exhaust below!!
no update for a bit but the sumps on, oil feed and drain sorted, sandwich plate on and measured up for the oil cooler. Oil temp and pressure senders in.
Colder plugs sorted and gear selectors back on and starter motor back on. Just the fuel system to do before start up!
Just ordered a set of Tein Superstreets with electronic damping control on a whim!! we'll see how that goes but it was a price I couldn't pass up. Not sure 4 / 6 springs are stiff enough but i'd say they'll be better than the standard struts with TTE springs!
Back at the unit Sunday.....
Quote from: tets on April 25, 2021, 14:03New brakes and super light exhaust below!!
Erm, that's a caravan.
Quote from: tets on June 10, 2021, 20:08Just ordered a set of Tein Superstreets with electronic damping control on a whim!! we'll see how that goes but it was a price I couldn't pass up. Not sure 4 / 6 springs are stiff enough but i'd say they'll be better than the standard struts with TTE springs!
Back at the unit Sunday.....
I have this setup, and I really rate it.
Are they new or used?
I thought SuperStreet were out of production?
Quote from: Alex Knight on June 10, 2021, 23:38Quote from: tets on April 25, 2021, 14:03New brakes and super light exhaust below!!
Erm, that's a caravan.
thats really weird - something odd went on when I was uploading them but no idea where they came from - I don't even have a caravan!! haha
Quote from: Alex Knight on June 10, 2021, 23:39Quote from: tets on June 10, 2021, 20:08Just ordered a set of Tein Superstreets with electronic damping control on a whim!! we'll see how that goes but it was a price I couldn't pass up. Not sure 4 / 6 springs are stiff enough but i'd say they'll be better than the standard struts with TTE springs!
Back at the unit Sunday.....
I have this setup, and I really rate it.
Are they new or used?
I thought SuperStreet were out of production?
They are second hand but look new!! See if this pic works
Quote from: tets on June 11, 2021, 05:43Quote from: Alex Knight on June 10, 2021, 23:39Quote from: tets on June 10, 2021, 20:08Just ordered a set of Tein Superstreets with electronic damping control on a whim!! we'll see how that goes but it was a price I couldn't pass up. Not sure 4 / 6 springs are stiff enough but i'd say they'll be better than the standard struts with TTE springs!
Back at the unit Sunday.....
I have this setup, and I really rate it.
Are they new or used?
I thought SuperStreet were out of production?
They are second hand but look new!! See if this pic works
That's a good find!
not really updated as I don't have a lot to update! The jobs gone mad and Autumn being peak season plus black Friday and Christmas i've not had a lot of time!!
However done a few bits!
Bit of cooling / heat shield, rear bar and a couple of new bits!
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I like that rear crash bar... will you mount an inter cooler in the other gap? Don't know if it makes more sense to have the air on the left and the oil on the right...
Any plans for a deflector plate to divert air up to the coolers? Could totally mount some fans on them to pull air through- would look funky from the rear.
the PE kit isn't designed for any cooling but if I do it would be charge cooled so the oil cooler can stay there. Plus i've fitted it so I can cut the vented bits in the bumper so the air's got a clean exit - Depending on whether I can get away with it (MSUK regs wise) i fancy welding some more vents in the lid with a scoop to the air filter and oil cooler from the top.
Once i've got some miles on it no doubt i'll look at it again. I keep thinking of new things as i'm going along!
Big change (albeit so simple) is bending the spare wheel screw, welding it to the crash bar so I can use a nut on it and use it as the exhaust hanger. Been pissed off and spent so much time trying to get exhaust rubbers off but not anymore!!
Well I never realised it's been 2 years!
I ended up working away for a year and then opening a new 250k sq/ft shed and launching Lacoste's first UKDC so literally had the odd Sunday doing a few bits.
So I'm back home and back in the unit on a weekend! My MSUK licence has arrived and I'm entered in the LMDC Speed Championship and ANWCC hillclimb and sprint Championship.
To the car....
I've nearly got the gauges and interior stuff done - just need to cut into the ignition live for the cut off switch - Can anyone confirm this is the black and yellow wire as info is a bit scarce?
Also, I think my oil pressure gauge might be knackered - it's only showing 2v and not lighting up but not sure if it's cause I've not fired the engine!
Next up carpets back in (make it as road car as poss for the regs) and seats etc.
Got some new handbrake cables (same length so assuming aftermarket) but after disconnecting the ones on the car they seem free even though it was dog sh*t when I last drove it. Now I've redone the brakes I might give them another go with the handbrake dance before I change them. I do have the luxury of being able to re position them if needed.
Got the frame made for the tank and battery in the frunk - I only had green paint (no idea why) so green it went! It fits like a glove so next job is mount the fuel pump and filter underneath and fit the tank straps and find or build a battery tray (that battery is only for test as a light one is incoming)
Ended up buying an intercooler which is going where the newly acquired massive hole is under the car - I need to fab a frame to fit it in and do some ducting / gap filling (start of a flat floor)
Got a new set of Rota Slip's with an offset of 28 which should fill the arches and got on (don't laugh) Accelera's driver programme and with the discount a set of 100 tread-ware semi slicks for not much over 200 quid - they may be absolute garbage but on a 1km hill I'm hoping they at least warm up (ish) If not I'll go back to plan A with a proven tyre.
Also got a set of PFL rims with Rainsports for the inevitable wet days!
Got the Tein EDFC wired but it's showing an error on the fronts and doesn't seem to be adjusting - no idea why and it was Sunday afternoon when I found it and was nearly beer o-clock so packed up and went home!
I've probably done more (forgot braided fuel lines) but I'll try and be a bit more up to date this year!
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That is an epic update..
do you have edfc 1 or 2 . I can look up the errors if it's 2.
Quote from: jvanzyl on February 29, 2024, 21:07That is an epic update..
do you have edfc 1 or 2 . I can look up the errors if it's 2.
I think it's edfc 1 - the controller is in pic 1. It says 12 on the rears which seems correct and EE on the front which doesn't. I'll check the connectors tomorrow.
One thing to note is when the tank is out the lack of anything joining the floor and rear crossmember is startling - my intercooler brace will join them together (I'll make a brace like thing) but has anybody explored this?
Had another few hours today,
Got the return fuel line in, fuel filter and pump fitted, battery tray base fitted and started the new intercooler pipework
Need to tidy a few bits and space the fuel filter as the line is too tight on the crossmember but another step forward!
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had another few hours this weekend which was fiddly and time consuming.
Bled the clutch - don't even attempt it without a compressor and one of those bleed kits! Anyway, I have a pedal
Fastened the ducktail on using the bolts and some big spacers underneath which worked a treat.
Got the bonnet pins drilled and in - horrible job drilling the bonnet wondering if you've measured right but fortunately I had!
Today was the big one - fabbing the frame for the intercooler - my welding isn't what it was so need more practice before I weld it up but it's tacked and fits like a glove - need to duct the air diffuser style but if my thoughts are correct it should work a treat!
Plenty of room for the hot air to escape under the engine.
Any observations / comments welcome and if anyones done it before I'd be really interested to hear the results.
Also got my entry confirmed for Barbon Hillclimb in June so there's a deadline - plus I'm in Monaco for 2 weeks in May for the GP so need the MOT, Dyno and alignment done well before then
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@tets said:
Bled the clutch - don't even attempt it without a compressor and one of those bleed kits! Why this should be the case I do not know but I used the same, low cost item, to single handedly bleed the clutch as I used to bleed the brakes on my 2.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391971960746
Nice idea to use the space... curious to think about the aerodynamic effect of a void under the car.
I suppose ideally you want the air to rush in and out somehow. Just a thought, but if you moved the intercooler to the middle of the void (looking at it from the side) and then made one of those things that you see on front of the car radiators that would direct/duct air flow through the radiator and then provided a channel for it to exit it might help?
I'm planning on flat flooring the void with the exception of the intercooler where I'll create a "diffuser" style duct with sides (if you get my thinking) that will duct air in and then out round the sump area. I figured if it was further forward the diffuser would have too much of an angle to direct air efficiently.
I'm a bit of an outside the box thinker and if it's a bunch of cr4p I'll charge cool it.
For the sake of 25 quid and a few pipes (and being a tight Yorkshireman) I've got to give it a go.
I've also reached out to my old printing colleagues for used litho printing plates as they are light, aluminium and perfect for a flat floor! We used to use them as trim tabs (filled with expanding foam) on single seaters
Had a few hours again this weekend
Finished the interior with the exception of seats - changed a couple of gauges I wasn't happy with and got the carpet and all the plastics back on - happy with the centre console eventually
Fuel pump and filter fixed properly, wired up and working - at least I can test the fuel fittings for leaks before firing it.
Got a new battery, wasn't bothered what type as I want a lightweight one but this was brand new for 20 odd quid delivered.
Welded up the intercooler frame but not ground the welds or painted it yet - weekend job
Found out why the EDFC was showing an error - d!ckhead here had forgotten to put a fuse in the new fuse box
got a right angle drill chuck thing so I don't have to drop the rad to drill the holes for the tank straps
Feel like I'm on the home straight - brakes, fluids, intercooler and then fire it - then learn how to map an manage blue IMG_4925.jpegIMG_4923.jpeg
Got a few more hours today
Managed to get the battery tray fixed and the tank straps made and bolted down.
Intercooler frame is now painted and intercooler is in place - just need to sort the piping.
Also connected the O2 sensors together - In their infinite wisdom, Power Enterprises put 1 sensor right behind the other which gave some iffy readings on the 2nd. Both sensors are now reading from the 1st.
Car up on 4 stands ready to do the handbrake and bleed the brakes on the next visit plus all the fluids in!
Question now - mapping the e-manage blue - am I best just inputting the injector size and going from there or uploading the Thor map say for example which shouldn't be a million miles away? I have Wideband so I can monitor.
Getting excited now as MOT could be reasonably imminent
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Managed a few more jobs today.
Brakes bled (twice to make sure all the old fluid was ejected) and have a lovely pedal.
Did the clutch a while ago with the bleed kit but whilst I had a helper, I tried the old method as a back up. This time the pedal occasionally stays on the floor so somethings not right. I;m going to put the bleed kit on it again tomorrow but any advice welcome. It's a new paddle clutch that an experienced MR2 guy fitted so I hope he's done it right!
Also decided to pipe the turbo without going through the intercooler (for ease) to get the car MOT'd and back on the road. This is the way the PE kit was designed so can't see it being an issue.
Anyway got the pipework fitted and clamped up.
It was also designed to run standard injections and rising rate regulator although I've gone 2ZZ injectors, return rail and the emanage blue to control fuel. Still not sure the best way to map it - do I just add the injector size to a blank map to start with or upload the nearest spec map I can find?
I'm on waste gate spring pressure at around 6 or 7 psi so I'm told by the previous owner.
Also got the fuel lines clipped up, gear oil in and new oil pressure sender unit in (then broke the wire connector on the actual unit so need a new one)
Tomorrows tasks, engine oil, new positive battery connector, fuel in and test the system for leaks, bleed clutch again, front bumper on, crank engine and check for oil leaks (hopefully). If that all works I'll fire it and hopefully everything will work.
After it's seats and harnesses back in, wheels on, spanner check everything and book MOT
Any emanage advice gratefully received.
well today didn't go to plan....
Called for 5 litres of BP Ultimate on the way to the garage and 1st job was test fuel system.
Put a litre in and waited, checked for leaks and ok. Put another litre in and check for leaks and ok.
This wasn't with the pump on, just the gravity that would test the fuel filter and up to the pump.
All ok so drop the rest in and I could smell fuel vapour.
Thought it must be the filter so researched and made a loop system with the filter at neck level.
At this point I noticed a rather large wet patch under the frunk = bugger, leak.
Got under the car and one of the AN fitting on the outlet of the fuel filter was leaking! couldn't get it off still leaking, got a kitchen bowl under it and managed to get the pipe from the tank to the filter off and drained the tank back into the container.
Too much vapour in the air to do anything (or leave the garage for that matter) so doors wide open, clean up operation and do a few trim and cleaning jobs that would be safe until it cleared!
So nothing of any substance achieved apart from finding a leak!
We'll go again next week with new pipework!
Nice update. Don't forget fuel system will prime upon key insertion (not turning).
Quote from: jvanzyl on April 14, 2024, 20:07Nice update. Don't forget fuel system will prime upon key insertion (not turning).
I have an external inline filter and 255lph external pump that's on a switch but same effect! At least we can check the system which I guess was what yesterday was all about
Decided to re do part of the system - New filter ordered and some more fuel line.
Gone with a proper Sytec filter with 10mm push fit ends - I find the AN fittings great in part but I have steel braided hose from 2 different places and unfortunately the long pipes are not brilliant.
I'll try and get some pics up but the composition of the steel braid on 1 type of hose is great, really stable and clean when you cut it. The fittings go on really well and it they clamp up great.
The other is the opposite plus the braid moves up and down the rubber hose when you work it and it frays a lot easier. I'm going back to jubilee style clamps as I know they seal properly.
I'll revisit at some point and probably replace the long pipes but this will do the job.
We'll retest this weekend and hopefully get a better result!
Quite a good day today - Got the new fuel filter and pipes in - gravity leek test was good so connected the battery and switched the pump on - no leaks on the fuel rail or injectors so I'll take the win!
Got the funnel in to fill the oil, wired it to the brace, started pouring, wire shifted and poured oil everywhere! did it again properly, got approx 4.3 ltrs of oil in (to cater for turbo and oil cooler) and cleaned up best I could.
No leaks so disconnected the coils and gave it a cold crank to move oil round - no leaks so far.
I'm picking up a new to me Sparco seat up in the morning so hopefully in the afternoon I'll get it fired.
Just need to add something to the emanage blue (blank map with injector size or pre existing map) but not sure which!
The new fuel filter is a larger diameter to the old one so had to improvise on the mounting - it works but not ideal! you'll see the pic!
The return fuel rail maybe recognisable as I believe Carolyn made it moons ago!
Also a pic of the loop breather - did a bit of research on this and it makes sense. Pipe above the tank on the exit, loop then the bottom bit below the tank then back to the filter. if I go over (which I have previously) the bottom loop will be above the top of the inverted tank so no spillage! took some thinking about!
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not quite to plan today.
Found a Sparco Rev seat local so went to get that.
Called home to get my old laptop (thought it was win 98) but is windows 7 and won't connect to the emanage!
Got the rear arch liner in, did another crank with the coils disconnected, more leak checks (all good)
Feel like crap, shivering and coughing so went home and cracked a beer!
Hopefully I can beg, steel or borrow a laptop (and hopefully emanage knowledge) and go again next week
emulator or compatibility mode? for win 98
Quote from: tets on April 21, 2024, 18:52not quite to plan today.
Found a Sparco Rev seat local so went to get that.
Called home to get my old laptop (thought it was win 98) but is windows 7 and won't connect to the emanage!
Got the rear arch liner in, did another crank with the coils disconnected, more leak checks (all good)
Feel like crap, shivering and coughing so went home and cracked a beer!
Hopefully I can beg, steel or borrow a laptop (and hopefully emanage knowledge) and go again next week
Sorry to hear you're not well!
Here's a link on how to connect to the Emanage: https://youtu.be/GT4Vc_Wcapc?si=HA6cahIh-4Af_WgE
This is how I connect to mine and I know it works as I have windows 10.
Been a good weekend!!
Got more fuel in, primed the fuel system again and no leaks - can hear the fuel coming back into the tank from the return so all good there.
Got the seats and harnesses in which took ages as I've bolted through the floor with spreader plates which worked really well.
Rear bumper back on, couple of clips to fasten in the arches and an extra strip of heatproof tape to add on the left as it's doing my OCD no good!!
IT at work are sorting me a WIN98 laptop - I tried installing virtual box and WIN98 on an old windows 7 pc and it won't work - I watched the video above but not sure if I'm being technologically retarded so IT to the rescue!
Oh and I ordered a new oil pressure switch and positive battery terminal.
Need to get the semi slicks on the Rota's so I'm on the rain sports on standard rims (wet tyres) for the MOT.
Hopefully next weekend I'll get the MAP on and we'll give it a blast!
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