Hi,
I bought this earlier this year with 68k miles on. It was with one owner for most of its life and was reasonably well looked after. It had been fitted with new disks and pads all round and a new clutch by the dealer I bought it from and he also changed the rocker gasket.
Since then I've been working away at the jobs and refreshing 'spannering' skills I haven't used in years. Slowly working my way up to the bigger jobs.
Done so far:
-Mismatched front tyre replaced (until I can work out best all season standard size tyres for all corners - now they are at least the same brand front/rear if not same pattern)
-New 'DLR' fogs (after buying some cheapo standard ones online that didn't fit)
-Frunk clips all replaced
-Windscreen replaced (was baldly scored by a worn wiper)
-Speakers replaced and doors lined
-Door cards swapped with original leather trimmed ones (the ones fitted had been poorly hand finished in black vinyl at some point to match a leather seat swap)
-Old slimline Blaupunkt sub that I had sitting around fitted in bottom of passenger side luggage compartment with a detachable wiring loom to free up space if needed
-Extra 'window lock' switch fitted in place of coin holder to switch electric aerial off/on
-Seats removed and worn leather patched and re-coated (not the best job but better than it was..)
-Refurbished and fitted leather gear gaiter
-Fitted new standard gear knob
-Hardtop purchased (already had fitting kit installed)
-Blown heater control bulbs replaced
-Auxiliary belt and tensioner replaced
-Cam chain tensioner replaced
-K&N air filter fitted
-Spark plugs replaced
-Sticking rear caliper fixed
Parts purchased but yet to fit:
- 'ebay special' exhaust manifold
- TTE exhaust
- Steering column joint
Do do after that:
- Look into valve clearances (engine is quite noisy at idle)
- Spec/price/purchase/fit suspension components as close to OEM as possible - I want to keep the car reasonably 'stock'
- Refinish alloys
- Spec/price/purchase/fit tyres
- Drive it and enjoy it! Hopefully fit a road trip to Europe in next year
cheers
Changed PCV - a precautionary change - I haven't yet tested the old one
Pulled out the glovebox and managed to fit felt between the the layers of the front double skin to stop some of the many rattles
I am building up a pile of 'spares' from the car (door cards, speakers) - where might I post of list of these so they could be passed onto other members if needed?
Quote from: barchetta_ms on October 23, 2019, 13:48Changed PCV - a precautionary change - I haven't yet tested the old one
Pulled out the glovebox and managed to fit felt between the the layers of the front double skin to stop some of the many rattles
I am building up a pile of 'spares' from the car (door cards, speakers) - where might I post of list of these so they could be passed onto other members if needed?
There's no way to test it. It can appear to be working, but they lose tesnsion on the spring over time and cease to function properly.
Thanks Carolyn - I'll add that to the 'recycle' pile of parts
Today I've changed the UV joint on the steering column - not sure if it is the placebo affect but steering seems lighter/better. The old joint was definitely stiff in one direction.
I also lubricated where the clutch mechanism goes into the gear box - a very loud creak had developed over the last couple of weeks. I removed the battery and managed to get access from the top of the engine bay and used the tube on the head of a spray can of grease and put a short squirt into the rubber gaiter.
Over the weekend I fitted some second hand front mud guards. Very handily the plastic fittings in the wheel arch liner have holes in the middle so they screws go straight in. I've got a set for the rear too but that needs the wheels off and a couple of holes drilling.
I know mud guards aren't to everyones taste but I like them :)
Today whilst it wasn't raining for a change I fitted a Bluetooth adaptor to standard head unit (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=68451.0) and also fitted the rear mud guards.
I have just fitted a set of Dev's door bushes. I've not taken it for a drive yet but the difference it just makes to how the doors feel when shutting them is pretty impressive.
I have finally done something with the replacement manifold I purchased last year.
Looking at some of the pictures of others fitted they appear to corrode at either end so I painted the ends first with high temp. manifold paint.
IMG_20200115_1133196.jpg
Then came wrapping - something I had been not looking forward to - the joins half way down seemed particularity difficult to get right.
IMG_20200115_1433109.jpg
After a good few hours of swearing and ever increasing itching from the fibres (the gloves I used weren't thick enough on the back) I've got something that looks half decent.
IMG_20200115_1815110.jpg
When I get my second hand TTE exhaust cleaned up I'll fit them both at the same time.
Manifold now mounted :
IMG_20200420_1223516 (1).jpg
I used some titanium manifold bolts :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113900798815
Last year I bought a 'new to me' TTE exhaust. I ended up having the end sections professionally re-chromed and the silencer needed some welding around the flange. After some further fettling where the threads had then stripped on the flange to the cat and some trial and error getting all the joints sealed I finally managed to get it all fitted.
But - it's pretty loud. At a steady 70mph (on the bypass going to shops) there is a very loud 'drone'. I'm guessing this isn't expected and there is either a crack internally in the silencer or the baffling material has broken down.
Does anyone know if there is a drop in replacement for the silencer that will take the TTE tail pipes?
You may be right. It is not uncommon for the wading to have magically disappeared.
There is not much in the line of just replacement boxes.
I think the general consensus is, either a complete system or open yours, re pack and close.
I have ended up with a malian.
But prior to that. I like you, wanted to keep the tte exit pipes. No love lost re box. Very heavy and never seen.
So I found one of my front calipers was binding and thought it would be a good idea to strip and service them but I think I've got a bit carried away.
The front suspension was looking very sad and was well past due an overhaul :
IMG_20200530_1249192.jpg
The underside was starting to look a bit orange :
IMG_20200530_1250532.jpg
Calipers off :
IMG_20200530_1249383.jpg
Wire brushing back rust on steering rack :
IMG_20200613_1151020.jpg
I've been using Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 on the rust and then painting the lower / underside with Eastwood Rubberised Rust Encapsulator Undercoating. The sections of floor pan underneath the seats is just painted metal and had rust spots forming especially around the rubber grommets (which one of mine was missing) so that has been coated too :
IMG_20200613_1420568.jpg
The Hydrate 80 does a great job on the steering rack and the surface rust on the radiator fans - don't think they will need any top coat :
IMG_20200614_1517345.jpg
IMG_20200614_1517554.jpg
I've stripped my front calipers that were starting to seize. After quite a lot of hammering, I managed to get the pistons out and I can see now why they were seizing - old vs new :
IMG_20200711_1229289.jpg
The calipers were stripped using a wire brush drill attachment, treated with Hydrate 80 for rust, and then painted with some XHT paint (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07Z432449). The instructions state it needs curing at 160 degrees C so I put them in the BBQ for an hour :
IMG_20200711_1229058.jpg
They look great but unfortunately, the paint just doesn't seem to want to 'cure' and rubs off on your hands. I either need to strip them back or try some clear coat so I've got some clear coat on order and will see how well that works.
I used some VHT paint on an inlet manifold for a different vehicle, i popped it in the oven for 30 mins at 200 degrees C, the Wife complained about the smell! The paint cured enough that it didn't come off easily but hard rubbing by hand could remove a trace of it. I figured when the manifold was fitted the paint would soon cure with the heat generated by the engine.
Quote from: barchetta_ms on July 11, 2020, 22:16I've stripped my front calipers that were starting to seize. After quite a lot of hammering, I managed to get the pistons out and I can see now why they were seizing - old vs new :
IMG_20200711_1229289.jpg
The calipers were stripped using a wire brush drill attachment, treated with Hydrate 80 for rust, and then painted with some XHT paint (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07Z432449). The instructions state it needs curing at 160 degrees C so I put them in the BBQ for an hour :
IMG_20200711_1229058.jpg
They look great but unfortunately, the paint just doesn't seem to want to 'cure' and rubs off on your hands. I either need to strip them back or try some clear coat so I've got some clear coat on order and will see how well that works.
That certainly is not doing what it says in the description-
"No Primer needed, superb adhesion to bare steel (metal)"
My understanding is that correct preparation and undercoats are essential for good paintwork. I guess you took note of Bilt Hamber and XHT instructions before painting and as no undercoat is called for it is likely down to the paint. Maybe some reaction between those two products?
I had a similar experience with Hammerite a few years back, it would not dry. At the time there was mention of this in various reviews, I wrote to and spoke with the manufacturers who denied any problem. They reluctantly refunded my purchase price but not the postage costs. Not used the product since and subsequently could not find the bad reviews.
I suggest that any extra coat of whatever will not help the hardening and may cause wrinkling.
I do empathise with your frustration.
A belated update on the front end rebuild.
New shocks and springs :
IMG_20200718_2145033.jpg
Ready for hubs :
IMG_20200718_1624578.jpg
Hubs on :
IMG_20200718_1658467.jpg
IMG_20200718_1658524.jpg
New brake disc shield and discs :
IMG_20200718_1807159.jpg
Shocks in :
IMG_20200719_1702597.jpg
I had the calipers powder coated in the end - VHT paint wasn't working for me :
IMG_20200815_2010021.jpg
A lot of this was done in the rain :
IMG_20200815_2009490.jpg
Ready just in time for a run out for my son before his test (turns out add on learner driver insurance doesn't care what car you use) :
IMG_20200824_1808161.jpg
I used megazip.net for a lot of the parts - it's slow getting some of them from Japan but a lot cheaper including shipping than from UK dealers. I also had to change both of the front brake hard lines as the fittings to the flexi hoses were seized solid.
I've had my 2nd hand TTE exhaust tips chrome plated and the silencer re-packed and a new flange for the CAT connection welded on - this has cost me way too much now... I've got it fitted but having fun getting the joints all sealed correctly (all new fittings etc). I used some of this on the CAT joint (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004OX1EQI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which seems to have done the job but tried this (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0002UEN1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on the other x2 joints which comically burnt off so that will be coming apart again. Plus side is that I'm getting real quick at removing/re-fitting the rear bumper.
Well I can honestly say I've never seen an L plate on a 2 before but hey why not, lucky son! ;D
Just a few more pics from the front end rebuild
The suspension arms sanded and rust coated :
IMG_20200621_1329441.jpg
And then with paint :
IMG_20200621_1509534.jpg
Some pics of the underside re-assembled and treated :
IMG_20200707_1357241.jpg
IMG_20200707_1357200.jpg
IMG_20200707_1357122.jpg
(extra points if you spot the bolt in the wrong way .....)
Quote from: Chilli Girl on September 3, 2020, 21:15Well I can honestly say I've never seen an L plate on a 2 before but hey why not, lucky son! ;D
Bizarrely it cost the same as to insure him as a learner driver on my wife's 2008 Subaru Justy 1.0 - he really enjoyed driving it. Now he has passed his test he will have to wait quite a few years to drive it again.
wow I wish my car looked as good as yours underneath... and the incorrect bolt is the one poking into the steering rack boot I believe... By the way, since you're going through all this effort, are you going to put a steering UJ cover kit on? May as well protect what you've so painstakingly put together.
Quote from: jvanzyl on September 4, 2020, 06:29wow I wish my car looked as good as yours underneath... and the incorrect bolt is the one poking into the steering rack boot I believe... By the way, since you're going through all this effort, are you going to put a steering UJ cover kit on? May as well protect what you've so painstakingly put together.
Yes - I initially put the lower suspension arm bolt in back to front - I was looking at a diagram for the wrong side of the car. It made me a little paranoid about what else I may have got wrong and spent quite a while checking back over everything else.
I'm in two minds about the about the UJ boot but will probably come back to that once I've done the same strip/rebuild on the rear end.
The sealant I tried for the joints on the TTE exhaust burnt off and it was blowing so off with the bumper again and I re-sealed it with some of this :
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004OX1EQI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It looks much better suited for this and so far seems to have done the job :
IMG_20200912_1347083.jpg
Whilst the bumper was off I thought I'd try and reduce some of the heat soak through the bumper and lined part of it with some heat reflective tape :
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07J1QQSMG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
IMG_20200912_1347002.jpg
It looks the part and the bumper is cooler but will be interesting to see if it stays on.
I also finally fitted some new tyres (Hankook Ventus Prime 3 K125) to some wheels I had refurbished at the start of the year - finally a matching set of tyres :
IMG_20200912_1347460.jpg
And finally a nice drive out :
IMG_20200912_1811427.jpg
so cool, very interesting read