Why have I joined this forum? I'm 43, getting old and have loved cars all my life. I've owned cheap runabouts most of my life. In 2014 I spoiled myself and bought a MK4 Golf 150PD remapped to 190BHP. I did some very light modifications and really enjoyed the mechanical side of maintenance, research and light upgrades. I loved looking at her, driving her both as a daily and at the weekend. However, as she got older I started to spend more and more just in maintenance and in the end I had to let her go as financially I couldn't afford to keep her. So in 2018 I was forced to sell her. I've owned many £200 to £300 runabouts since then but really miss having something I could enjoy when I drive. I've been looking around for my next car. I've traditionally been a performance diesel man and was looking to buy either a BMW 123d or BMW 335d as they were rear wheel drive, have plenty of power and are pretty cheap to buy and modify. The 335d could easily hit 400bhp & 900nm with a weight of 1645kg.
While I was dreaming of cars in AutoTrader i came across the MR2. I always thought it was a hairdressers car, nothing to be concerned about. Seeing it have 138bhp I laughed. How can this be a performance car? I didn't even like it's looks. They were cheap at £1000 to £1500 if you are lucky for an ok example. But how could this little car even compete with my BMW 335D?
After a little research I discovered Toyota is the most reliable Brand out there. Great point. After a little more digging I came across a video of Touge Racing and in particular the Techno Pro Spirit MR-S. I watched every video I could even those in Japanese. I then came across the yellow MR-S of the legendary Mid Night Club and the more modern version, Pieter Zeelie MR2.
I was hooked. A car that cost £1k to £1.5k and relatively cheap mods I could either turbo the 1ZZ or swap to a Turbo 2ZZ or Turbo 2GR-FE, both engines being relatively cheap and mods can be as cheap or expensive as you want. And with a lot of elbow grease you could make the body actually very attractive again for a relatively cheap price. So I'm hooked and I think I've found my next project that I really hope will be a car I keep for life. Something that I hope won't cost the earth, will give me lots of fun and will be more on the road than broken off the road. After some support from my wife pushing me to get one i think I'll have the confidence to do this journey.
This will be my diary to log my journey. I hope it lasts a life time. I hope to create something unique in time. A homage to the petrol engine before it becomes extinct and replaced by electric vehicles. These are my dreams. They may just stay as dreams. I may hit financial troubles. I may stop as it will get too expensive. I may stop because of too many mechanical issues or I may crash it and write it off? Who knows. But I'm starting with a dream, a dream to build something special that I can drive on the road, race at the track, make me feel alive and inspire other people.
I'll try to log my costs and take photos of all the stages as well as have a list for mods.
So my journey starts. I need driving practice. So I've started to rebuild my 125cc shifter kart which I hope to start using in 2021 as they have similar driving characteristics with snap oversteer. That's another journey in itself.
I've started looking for my life partner but I'm fighting against backyard dealers who just want to make a profit. I've phoned up for a few and most I get the feeling are not a great starting platform as they have too many issues to start with. I know I want a 2004 or more recent as it has more bracing and I know I want the hard top hopefully as it will save me buying one later. I recently lost a bid on eBay for a two owner 2005 Blue MR2 MK3 with 103000. MOT history was strong but it had no current MOT but my gut says it would have passed. I lost in the last 5 seconds to a dealer who bought it for £1415 and he will flip it for £2.5k to £3k in the next week. So my journey continues. I trawl gumtree, AutoTrader, Friday Ad, EBay, local auctions. Nothing yet. I look at it that by loosing this one I'll get a lower mileage one with an MOT and ideally a hardtop. Fate will hopefully help. I bought an ELM327 OBD2 reader and have read up on the buyers guide so I'm ready for precat issues and subframe rot.
Now it's a matter of waiting to find my life long partner. I worry I'll buy a dog who's engine will blow or other issues and I read everyday to minimise the risk. This log is mainly for me but there maybe others interested in my journey as I progress. These are my very first steps in my journey. Exciting times.
I have a list of mods in my head id like to do but I've yet to organise them in an order. I know as soon as I find a car I'll change the header to remove the precats. Then ill focus on servicing the car. I want then shake it down and see if it's something that'll hold together before I invest anything further otherwise I'll be wasting my money. So my next stage is to get a list of mods written down in some sort of order. So onto reading lots of other people's build either on these forums or YouTube and logging their changes.
Next post will hopefully be my initial mods.
Well there's an opening post and a half.
Hello and welcome.
Well, that is some introductory post, that I almost didn't bother to continue reading when I got to -"I'm 43, getting old".
Then I thought you can't be an eternal pessimist because you are dreaming a long way into the future.
For whatever reasons you have decided on an MR2 mk3 to help fulfill those dreams you have come to the right place for information, encouragement and somewhere to discuss your thoughts.
As for finding the right car, there are from time to time examples on here, also a parts for sale section that will only be revealed when you have established your credentials and shown that you won't be a stranger.
So hello and welcome.
Hello and welcome
Mods aren't cheap
Don't worry about the age the bracing or the precats worry about general condition.
Enjoy
Thank you all for taking the time for reading my thoughts. This is going to be an exciting journey for me and it's nice to share it with like minded people. I appreciate the guidance to the marketplace. I've seen someone has just put a car on today for £1750 and I've shown interest but I think I'm second in line as someone showed interest before me and so I don't want to step on anyone's toes. If it sells I'm patient and I'm sure a nice minimum rust example will turn up. In the meantime I'm reading to organise my thoughts as to what ill do initially as my main concern is I want to drive it as much as possible and keep it off road at a minimum.
Welcome alone! Be patient, the right one will come along for you. Read our buyers guide and, lockdown permitting, look at and drive a few before committing. Our cars are old so don't be too swayed by low mileage, a higher mileage well maintained one will be as good.
I liked your comment about Toyota reliability, either here or on another forum there was a question asked about what you should do to the car if storing for the winter. Apparently the local Mr T team said "you don't need to do anything, it's a Toyota"
@paulj 'Twas I that reported Mr T's comment. That was from 2011, so far so good!
NB Always best to read the full story, not just parts / out of context as the news reports sometimes do.
My 2 is in the garage, up on axle stands or the tyres are over inflated. The battery is on charge. The wipers are propped off of the screen and it's covered with old duvet's to keep the dust off and help stop any incidental damage.
:) a big welcome to all of that :)
well thought out and we all need dreams.
better to have a go and chase the dream reather than regreat later that we did not have a go in the 1st placde.
dont be to concered on your year of car.
as you will be playing with it anyway.
keep looking and get ready to travel to find the right one when we can.
let us no how you get on. ;D ;D
Thank you for the welcome, I did not know how tight knit the MR2 community was and it's really nice to have the support from like minded people as I'm sure there are going to be many ups and downs on my journey. Having the support from my wife and like minded people will motivate me to push forward. I know I need to be patient as rushing now will only cause me to face issues in the future and waste money I do not have. I have a vision of what I'd like the car to be and I know my journey will be long. I hope I don't make too many mistakes along the way. I know the petrol engine has a finite life and I really want to contribute a project as a tribute to it. I'm really wanting to get stuck in and start asap but I'm finding it really difficult to find a clean one in my budget range. I don't mind something with a bit higher mileage but they're either not looked after by their custodians or they're way out of my budget. I will just keep looking. I will use this thread as my diary so anyone interested in my journey will see every stage I take with photos, videos and feelings as when I get older I'd like to refer back to where I started. ATM I'm feeling a bit frustrated as my first stage is written down and costed so I'm keen to action it but without a suitable car it remains a dream. But they do say love finds you in mysterious ways.
Glad to see someone who's new to these cars but 100% completely gets it what is cool about them.
So many people who have these and don't really hold on to them could have easily had an MX-5 instead and not noticed a difference/enjoyed the boot space more than anything else. You don't seem like one of those, so anything you want to ask I will be surely on the lookout for your posts and give you advice if I know it or lead you to the right person.
In regards to Facelift and Hardtop, that ebay bid I'd happily would have bid 1800 at least, I paid £2000 for my 2nd one with now a permanent hardtop/2003 model year and couldn't be happier, it has an incredibly large amount of history come with it and it had several extra parts come with it, like bracing.
Certainly made me much happier than paying £1200 for my first one, a 2004 with 30k less miles and yet in much, much worse condition.
What do people think of the following? I'm considering buying. The underseal is the only question per MOT history?
Thank you
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202011196286382?sort=datedesc&onesearchad=New&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=Used&model=MR2&include-delivery-option=on&year-to=2020&radius=1500&make=TOYOTA&postcode=bn112sn&advertising-location=at_cars&page=1
Quote from: Mariorcross on November 19, 2020, 21:30What do people think of the following? I'm considering buying. The underseal is the only question per MOT history?
Thank you
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202011196286382?sort=datedesc&onesearchad=New&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=Used&model=MR2&include-delivery-option=on&year-to=2020&radius=1500&make=TOYOTA&postcode=bn112sn&advertising-location=at_cars&page=1
Seems too cheap for me at such low mileage.
Especially if it has parts of a hardtop fitting kit included.
There are a couple of cars available directly from this forum I would look at those before auto trader tbh.
Which ones would you recommend here? Thank you
As
@1979scotte said it's "too cheap" "at such a low But the seller is claiming to be Private which could explain that.
From the MOT record it's certainly been unloved. Strange then that is has been under sealed. From the pictures the seat bolsters look good, they could have been replaced but that doesn't go with the MOT lack of care. Could be worth a look as you have said you are looking for a project, that being the case I don't believe those for sale on here fit that category.
Hi Joesson thanks for the reply. I'm looking for a project but I don't want to deal with rust and if the underseal is hiding that it's not for me. I'm looking for a project but not for me to fix basic maintenace tasks and I agree with your comments, advisories never cleared so why underseal the car? Plus I see rust on bolts so I think I'll give it a miss as it's nearly a 10 hour round trip and the risks too high. Ill be patient and keep looking
Hi Mariorcross, welcome to the club .... I know of a 02 car that may be of interest in Chichester so should be local, although I thought you wanted an 04 or later but looks like it's been looked after - I'll pm you :)
Quote from: SoloNomad on November 20, 2020, 08:38Hi Mariorcross, welcome to the club .... I know of a 02 car that may be of interest in Chichester so should be local, although I thought you wanted an 04 or later but looks like it's been looked after - I'll pm you :)
A good call, 02 last of the lightweight variant. Much of the bracing added to later, heavier models, can be retrofitted as/ if required.
My advice would be to increase your budget.
The old adage "buy the best car for your budget" must be your mantra.
Yo can get into the "game" with these cars for relatively little money but the car will likely be a high mileage and well used/abused/neglected example.
I am full of admiration for those who want to start from ground zero. However, that approach requires a realistic assessment of the real costs for parts - if you are doing all the work, then great, but if not then you have another cost to account for.
Another question is: How long long are you prepared to wait until you are able to drive the car? A year, two years?.
The differential between a 'project' and a 'sorted' car is just too small and the money spent on the 'project' will not be recouped when and if you come to sell it.
Look at the cars for sale on here. Look at the difference in the specifications. Look at the price difference.
Take
@Bossworld recent advert as an example, if only to give yourself an idea of the work done and/or that you could enjoy doing with a 'project. Then, do the sums. You will quickly see that the 'differential' between the two extremes is so small, relatively, as to make no sense. Crikey, the cost of a hardtop and associated parts is more than the nominal £1,000 between the two extremes.
Nevertheless, welcome to the club, and good luck with your journey, which will hopefully be made in one of these brilliant little cars.
Here's some details:
For Sale Silver 2002 PFL Roadster. Stock except for FL rear lights and new short shifter.
Mot'd until 17th May 2021 Has been completely serviced including plugs, filters, new serpentine belt, new rocker gasket and new chain tensioner O ring.
New caliper's all round about 500 miles ago. Brakes are excellent including the hand brake.
I have replaced the roof with an excellent condition secondhand one.
Black leather interior with totally undamaged seats. New fuel cap cable. Has been decatted (pre cats)
The rear subframe is like brand new. Air Conditioning 112k Miles
There are a couple of body blemishes but this car will stand up to any inspection.
It's up for £1750 - I'm not enough of an expert to know if this is high or not but could be within budget. Nothing to do with the owner but just seen it up far sale and thought it might be worth a look?
Thanks for the tag SV-3.
Mariorcross it's interesting to read your post, my first car (a 1996 Peugeot 306 DT) was probably fit for the scrappy even from the moment I bought it but I took it from 120,000 miles to just over 150,000, and even had the engine changed, before it was weighed in on the 2009 scrappage scheme.
Touch wood, ever since then, I've never had a car break down on me. Admittedly I've had newer 'main' cars (with the exception of my MR2), but there typically comes a tipping point with maintenance. We've never quite learned it in our family, my mum is still running a 53 plate A4 that she bought in 2007, and her MR2 alongside it. My Dad has spent stupid amounts keeping old Volvos on the road long after they're done for, and I think part of it is sentiment.
The other part is sunk cost and that's where I found myself from an MR2 perspective. Once you've sunk money into it, there comes a point where you might as well keep going, and a case of 'better the devil you know'.
Patrick (forum Admin) has done a couple of recent threads on bangernomics, I think if you're willing to get a different car and scrap it at MOT time then other than breakdowns, it's reasonably sound logic. The problem, as we've seen even in the MR2 world, is that the MOT isn't a 100% guide to a vehicle's safety. There are lots of MR2s out there with rotten subframes but they're covered by a rear 'nappy' the tester isn't allowed to remove. Four different brands of tyre would pass an MOT but could put you sideways on a wet roundabout.
Hardtops are a funny beast, I had one but as I've got a garage it was superfluous and meant trying to find somewhere to store it. They are prone to creaks and rattles, but on the plus side, I believe a factory hardtop car will have air-conditioning. Whether that's still working after 14+ years is debateable and a pricey fix. You may also find that a car that had a hardtop from the factory has a better condition soft-top than one without.
These cars are easy to work on – I was at 6th Form in the days of my 306 so wound up being far more experienced than I ought to be on changing glow plugs and the like, but it gave me a taste. The subsequent Clio and Minis didn't need that kind of work, so the MR2 was bought when we moved house and I'd run out of enthusiasm for the house renovation. I've learned a hell of a lot on the car and I've been able to translate that to big financial savings on the Mini's routine servicing.
There is middle ground between the extremes of project car < > daily driver - I only did the suspension refresh in mid-2019 but was obviously still driving the car up to that point.
@Carolyn is a big advocate of a stock suspension refresh and it made a big difference to my car.
Hope you manage to find a car, funnily enough I've got to head down to Sussex (on the train) in December to pick up my Golf, so it's sometimes worth travelling if you find 'the one'.
Quote from: SoloNomad on November 20, 2020, 11:55Here's some details:
For Sale Silver 2002 PFL Roadster. Stock except for FL rear lights and new short shifter.
Mot'd until 17th May 2021 Has been completely serviced including plugs, filters, new serpentine belt, new rocker gasket and new chain tensioner O ring.
New caliper's all round about 500 miles ago. Brakes are excellent including the hand brake.
I have replaced the roof with an excellent condition secondhand one.
Black leather interior with totally undamaged seats. New fuel cap cable. Has been decatted (pre cats)
The rear subframe is like brand new. Air Conditioning 112k Miles
There are a couple of body blemishes but this car will stand up to any inspection.
It's up for £1750 - I'm not enough of an expert to know if this is high or not but could be within budget. Nothing to do with the owner but just seen it up far sale and thought it might be worth a look?
It sounds promising, I would pay attention to a couple of other unlisted common things that can go, which would be:
Radiator - cheap and easy to replace but these cars take nearly 10l of coolant due to the layout
Steering union joint - fairly easy to replace, some debate over pattern parts vs. genuine Toyota but the part offered by TCB has had a good reception.
---
As others have alluded, at this ~2k end of the market, you're going to find wild variations in how cars have been looked after and whether they've had parts proactively replaced or just done because of an MOT failure. If you're keeping a car for years, then IMO it's easier to swallow the costs, but a tatty sub-£1k car could be a diamond in the rough, or it might cost thousands to get to where you want it to be.
My first 2 was an 06 55k miles fsh with a hardtop paid good money for it.
Still needed new rad new sub frame and new rear brakes.
You pays your money you takes your chance.
Thank you all for the advice and thank you
@SoloNomad for the link. There was an issue with low coolant in previous MOT which I worry could be a head gasket issue or other engine issue. As I would like to drive the car spiritidly I really worry about the engine popping. Apart from that the car does look like it's been looked after. I've messaged the guy and waiting for his reply as it's only down the road (45m drive) from my little village. Fingers crossed.
Quote from: Mariorcross on November 20, 2020, 15:03Thank you all for the advice and thank you @SoloNomad for the link. There was an issue with low coolant in previous MOT which I worry could be a head gasket issue or other engine issue. As I would like to drive the car spiritidly I really worry about the engine popping. Apart from that the car does look like it's been looked after. I've messaged the guy and waiting for his reply as it's only down the road (45m drive) from my little village. Fingers crossed.
The coolant level on these cars can go up and down for very little apparent reason / no visible leak. I know that sounds like it's defying the laws of physics and hopefully someone understands what causes the visible level in the expansion tank to change better than I do.
Thank you for the heads up. What do you think I should offer for the car?
Quote from: Bossworld on November 20, 2020, 15:05Quote from: Mariorcross on November 20, 2020, 15:03Thank you all for the advice and thank you @SoloNomad for the link. There was an issue with low coolant in previous MOT which I worry could be a head gasket issue or other engine issue. As I would like to drive the car spiritidly I really worry about the engine popping. Apart from that the car does look like it's been looked after. I've messaged the guy and waiting for his reply as it's only down the road (45m drive) from my little village. Fingers crossed.
The coolant level on these cars can go up and down for very little apparent reason / no visible leak. I know that sounds like it's defying the laws of physics and hopefully someone understands what causes the visible level in the expansion tank to change better than I do.
The fact that it takes more coolant and has longer coolant hoses than any car I've ever had?
Having experienced the yo yo effect of the water level in the expansion tank I suggest that this is a symptom of air in the system. If the system is bled thoroughly the yo yo effect is greatly reduced and any difference in levels is then the result only of the effects of pressure and temperature in the system affecting the volume/ level.
Quote from: Mariorcross on November 20, 2020, 15:13Thank you for the heads up. What do you think I should offer for the car?
As someone currently selling a car I think only you can decide whether it's what you're willing to pay. As mentioned by SV-3, the bottom and 'normal' top (not portacabin dealers trying their luck at £6k) is very small. Also take into account how much you value your time and how far you've got to travel in a pandemic ;)
Looking at it holistically, how long has it been on the market, do you think the price is fair and how much are you actually going to miss another £50 or £100 if you don't think they've added extra on to allow for bargaining?
Quote from: 1979scotte on November 20, 2020, 16:06Quote from: Bossworld on November 20, 2020, 15:05Quote from: Mariorcross on November 20, 2020, 15:03Thank you all for the advice and thank you @SoloNomad for the link. There was an issue with low coolant in previous MOT which I worry could be a head gasket issue or other engine issue. As I would like to drive the car spiritidly I really worry about the engine popping. Apart from that the car does look like it's been looked after. I've messaged the guy and waiting for his reply as it's only down the road (45m drive) from my little village. Fingers crossed.
The coolant level on these cars can go up and down for very little apparent reason / no visible leak. I know that sounds like it's defying the laws of physics and hopefully someone understands what causes the visible level in the expansion tank to change better than I do.
The fact that it takes more coolant and has longer coolant hoses than any car I've ever had?
That is, perhaps, why our cars are considered cool.
Only you can decide if it's something you want and what you'll be happy to pay. Just give it a good going over, maybe take some photos or notes and ask some advice on here, don't get carried away with excitment just make sure it's what you want. Compare with some others maybe - a quick look on facebook marketplace brings up some for sale in Hastings (blue 2004 which looks quite nice), Horsham, Eastbourne and Littlehampton all at similar prices .... go-compare! :)
Thanks
@SoloNomad for the lead to Facebook marketplace. I'll have a look at it this evening as the one in Chichester is not responding to my Facebook messages and I would prefer a 2004 as it will have 6 gears which is something I want after driving 4/5 gear bangers id like to treat myself. May I ask for a link to the marketplace as there are so many I don't know which one you are referring to. Thank you in advance
6 gear bangers are also available.
Quote from: Mariorcross on November 20, 2020, 22:45Thanks @SoloNomad for the lead to Facebook marketplace. I'll have a look at it this evening as the one in Chichester is not responding to my Facebook messages and I would prefer a 2004 as it will have 6 gears which is something I want after driving 4/5 gear bangers id like to treat myself. May I ask for a link to the marketplace as there are so many I don't know which one you are referring to. Thank you in advance
Hi, I'll see if I can sort a link out for you soon, I'll just need to get on my main pc. As for the one you messaged don't forget not everyone is glued to their devices or get alerts to messages so be patient for a response, I turned off faceache messaged ages ago as I'd get lots of crap about someone eating a sandwich or pointless life affirmations. As for marketplace I just searched for 'mr2' and had my distance set to about 30 miles, that blue 04 is in Hastings so it's closer to me, you might have to widen your search area.
Link sent.
One thing I noticed about the blue 04 I mentioned is that the exhaust is a single pipe exiting from the right side of the car - I thought all single tip exhausts came out the left on MR2s could someone more knowledable know about this ?
Quote from: Mariorcross on November 20, 2020, 22:45Thanks @SoloNomad for the lead to Facebook marketplace. I'll have a look at it this evening as the one in Chichester is not responding to my Facebook messages and I would prefer a 2004 as it will have 6 gears which is something I want after driving 4/5 gear bangers id like to treat myself. May I ask for a link to the marketplace as there are so many I don't know which one you are referring to. Thank you in advance
There are FL cars earlier than 2004.
Quote from: SoloNomad on November 21, 2020, 07:46Link sent.
One thing I noticed about the blue 04 I mentioned is that the exhaust is a single pipe exiting from the right side of the car - I thought all single tip exhausts came out the left on MR2s could someone more knowledable know about this ?
That is likely an aftermarket exhaust as you are correct, the OE single exhaust exit is on the left.
I'm going to view it Monday at midday. They said battery is flat and will need a jump so already worrying me. Is there anyone that could come with me on Monday to help me view it as I don't want to buy a dog. Thanks
I suggest that a new battery and tyres are common items to factor in when considering a used car.
This seller has prewarned you that the battery is flat, perhaps not unreasonable in the current circumstances.
One 2 that I viewed (in 2011) I found to be connected up to a RAC break down vehicle, the operator being the 2's owner.
It is said never buy a used car from a mechanic, and there being other signs of neglect I passed on that one. But you have to open a few oysters to find a pearl.
Quote from: Mariorcross on November 21, 2020, 13:58I'm going to view it Monday at midday. They said battery is flat and will need a jump so already worrying me. Is there anyone that could come with me on Monday to help me view it as I don't want to buy a dog. Thanks
Can you list the positive points of this car please?
Who tries to sell a car that isn't running?
Quote from: Joesson on November 21, 2020, 14:28I suggest that a new battery and tyres are common items to factor in when considering a used car.
This seller has prewarned you that the battery is flat, perhaps not unreasonable in the current circumstances.
One 2 that I viewed (in 2011) I found to be connected up to a RAC break down vehicle, the operator being the 2's owner.
It is said never buy a used car from a mechanic, and there being other signs of neglect I passed on that one. But you have to open a few oysters to find a pearl.
Can't agree they have 2 days to charge it or it it jump started its ridiculous.
Quote from: Mariorcross on November 21, 2020, 13:58I'm going to view it Monday at midday. They said battery is flat and will need a jump so already worrying me. Is there anyone that could come with me on Monday to help me view it as I don't want to buy a dog. Thanks
Is this the one in Hastings?
This is basically the ad:
This car is a lovely car, been well looked after by owners, in very good condition very clean inside and out,
It currently has 1 years mot
Had all new brakes done
All new cables done
All new bulbs
All new tyres
look no further this car is lovely to drive Is it ok to put a link to a facebook ad up here on the forum???
Mine had a flat battery when I looked at it, it was a dealer and they had a booster and I've since charged the battery and it's fine now ... maybe they don't have a charger?
If I was available I'd pop along but I'm working. There was a long list of things to check when looking at these cars, anyone know where it is I can't remember where I found it, might help.
Edit: Doh, it's in the first sticky in the 'welcome new members' bit!
I asked them to charge it but they don't have a charger. Yes its that one. Getting a bit bemused from the search as there are so many bad examples where people should be asking less than £1k but want £2k plus. Finding this pearl is much harder than I thought. My tight budget is what's restricting me. One came up on eBay today advertised for 3.5k but he'll take 3k. It looks really good I just can't stretch out to that atm.
Not read the first part of the thread about this car but I agree with Scott, that does sound dodgy doesnt it? If it needs a jump start (which would probably mean a new battery if its been left discharged for a long time), why didnt they ask you if they could jump start off your car?
I always judge the owners as well as the car and look out for any warning signs of a story that doesnt ring true. Ask them if they have the reg document that you can view. If they dont show it to you then it could be because it is a CAT D/N (or whatever they are now called).
Make sure you have read the buyers guide too.
Normally my advice is to drive as many as you can to get a feel for them as the good ones will jump out at you. In a pandemic though, not sure what to say! (Take lots of hand gel with you?).
Try not to get fixated on what you think you "need" in the car and keep an open mind.
Quote from: 1979scotte on November 21, 2020, 14:46Quote from: Joesson on November 21, 2020, 14:28I suggest that a new battery and tyres are common items to factor in when considering a used car.
This seller has prewarned you that the battery is flat, perhaps not unreasonable in the current circumstances.
One 2 that I viewed (in 2011) I found to be connected up to a RAC break down vehicle, the operator being the 2's owner.
It is said never buy a used car from a mechanic, and there being other signs of neglect I passed on that one. But you have to open a few oysters to find a pearl.
Can't agree they have 2 days to charge it or it it jump started its ridiculous.
As has since been said the seller does not have a charger, so not a lot of point jump starting it now when the OP is viewing on Monday.
The seller has advised the prospective purchaser of a fault, the battery is flat.
The seller could have said nothing until the buyer arrived. Doesn't seem to me that the seller is hiding that fact.
As I said, "in current circumstances", the seller should not go out and buy a charger or a new battery, unessential travel. As is buying a car but that is another story.
Quote from: Joesson on November 21, 2020, 16:45Quote from: 1979scotte on November 21, 2020, 14:46Quote from: Joesson on November 21, 2020, 14:28I suggest that a new battery and tyres are common items to factor in when considering a used car.
This seller has prewarned you that the battery is flat, perhaps not unreasonable in the current circumstances.
One 2 that I viewed (in 2011) I found to be connected up to a RAC break down vehicle, the operator being the 2's owner.
It is said never buy a used car from a mechanic, and there being other signs of neglect I passed on that one. But you have to open a few oysters to find a pearl.
Can't agree they have 2 days to charge it or it it jump started its ridiculous.
As has since been said the seller does not have a charger, so not a lot of point jump starting it now when the OP is viewing on Monday.
The seller has advised the prospective purchaser of a fault, the battery is flat.
The seller could have said nothing until the buyer arrived. Doesn't seem to me that the seller is hiding that fact.
As I said, "in current circumstances", the seller should not go out and buy a charger or a new battery, unessential travel. As is buying a car but that is another story.
Car maintenance is essential tony that's why all the mechanics are open.
Sorry mate if selling a car make sure it starts. How can you have faith in battery or alternator in these circumstances.
Quote from: 1979scotte on November 21, 2020, 17:43Quote from: Joesson on November 21, 2020, 16:45Quote from: 1979scotte on November 21, 2020, 14:46Quote from: Joesson on November 21, 2020, 14:28I suggest that a new battery and tyres are common items to factor in when considering a used car.
This seller has prewarned you that the battery is flat, perhaps not unreasonable in the current circumstances.
One 2 that I viewed (in 2011) I found to be connected up to a RAC break down vehicle, the operator being the 2's owner.
It is said never buy a used car from a mechanic, and there being other signs of neglect I passed on that one. But you have to open a few oysters to find a pearl.
Can't agree they have 2 days to charge it or it it jump started its ridiculous.
As has since been said the seller does not have a charger, so not a lot of point jump starting it now when the OP is viewing on Monday.
The seller has advised the prospective purchaser of a fault, the battery is flat.
The seller could have said nothing until the buyer arrived. Doesn't seem to me that the seller is hiding that fact.
As I said, "in current circumstances", the seller should not go out and buy a charger or a new battery, unessential travel. As is buying a car but that is another story.
Car maintenance is essential tony that's why all the mechanics are open.
Sorry mate if selling a car make sure it starts. How can you have faith in battery or alternator in these circumstances.
What if, the car is otherwise as described, the seller could be just naive not a car sharp. A replacement battery, replacement alternator, new ancillary belt while your at it Ca £215 so offer £250 off asking price.
Quote from: Joesson on November 21, 2020, 18:39Quote from: 1979scotte on November 21, 2020, 17:43Quote from: Joesson on November 21, 2020, 16:45Quote from: 1979scotte on November 21, 2020, 14:46Quote from: Joesson on November 21, 2020, 14:28I suggest that a new battery and tyres are common items to factor in when considering a used car.
This seller has prewarned you that the battery is flat, perhaps not unreasonable in the current circumstances.
One 2 that I viewed (in 2011) I found to be connected up to a RAC break down vehicle, the operator being the 2's owner.
It is said never buy a used car from a mechanic, and there being other signs of neglect I passed on that one. But you have to open a few oysters to find a pearl.
Can't agree they have 2 days to charge it or it it jump started its ridiculous.
As has since been said the seller does not have a charger, so not a lot of point jump starting it now when the OP is viewing on Monday.
The seller has advised the prospective purchaser of a fault, the battery is flat.
The seller could have said nothing until the buyer arrived. Doesn't seem to me that the seller is hiding that fact.
As I said, "in current circumstances", the seller should not go out and buy a charger or a new battery, unessential travel. As is buying a car but that is another story.
Car maintenance is essential tony that's why all the mechanics are open.
Sorry mate if selling a car make sure it starts. How can you have faith in battery or alternator in these circumstances.
What if, the car is otherwise as described, the seller could be just naive not a car sharp. A replacement battery, replacement alternator, new ancillary belt while your at it Ca £215 so offer £250 off asking price.
Anything is possible
Quote from: 1979scotte on November 21, 2020, 19:17Quote from: Joesson on November 21, 2020, 18:39Quote from: 1979scotte on November 21, 2020, 17:43Quote from: Joesson on November 21, 2020, 16:45Quote from: 1979scotte on November 21, 2020, 14:46Quote from: Joesson on November 21, 2020, 14:28I suggest that a new battery and tyres are common items to factor in when considering a used car.
This seller has prewarned you that the battery is flat, perhaps not unreasonable in the current circumstances.
One 2 that I viewed (in 2011) I found to be connected up to a RAC break down vehicle, the operator being the 2's owner.
It is said never buy a used car from a mechanic, and there being other signs of neglect I passed on that one. But you have to open a few oysters to find a pearl.
Can't agree they have 2 days to charge it or it it jump started its ridiculous.
As has since been said the seller does not have a charger, so not a lot of point jump starting it now when the OP is viewing on Monday.
The seller has advised the prospective purchaser of a fault, the battery is flat.
The seller could have said nothing until the buyer arrived. Doesn't seem to me that the seller is hiding that fact.
As I said, "in current circumstances", the seller should not go out and buy a charger or a new battery, unessential travel. As is buying a car but that is another story.
Car maintenance is essential tony that's why all the mechanics are open.
Sorry mate if selling a car make sure it starts. How can you have faith in battery or alternator in these circumstances.
What if, the car is otherwise as described, the seller could be just naive not a car sharp. A replacement battery, replacement alternator, new ancillary belt while your at it Ca £215 so offer £250 off asking price.
Anything is possible
Even flying pigs, but that's another story.
I've been spending almost a year looking for an MR2 and really want a facelift version, low mileage, with a hardtop but at a budget of £2k to 2.5k I've found a few but lockdown means I can't travel. So I thought I want to have one as ive waited too long and until I find my perfect life car I thought I'd get one as a temporary car so I can start driving it and enjoying it when lockdown is lifted.
Today I picked up an MR2 that will introduce me into this world of mid-engine rear wheel drive cars. After watching Initial D the movie last night as motivation I went just down the road to pick one up. I've taken a bit of a risk but I think it's worth it.
My temporary beauty is a 2001 Japanese import MR-S with 57k miles, softtop in mint condition, subframe is almost new (no rust), underneath minimal rust, no rust in the engine bay, no visable oil leaks, no weird sounds during test drive, Toyo Proxies that are hardly used. Bad points were there is no original stereo and during the test drive the clutch bite point was very high and clutch was slipping.
One question I have was I have to press down the clutch to start engine whether in gear or not? Is this normal?
I've found a mobile mechanic that will do it for £175 labour only so I'm looking for a new clutch kit. I'll read the forums but if anyone can guide me should I change the flywheel at the same time? Also should I get an OEM Toyota clutch kit or an aftermarket one? Engine will not be upgraded with power so I was thinking the LUK from carparts4less. Not sure the difference as there are 2 sizes so I'll call Toyota Monday for part number.
I'm super excited as I really felt I was driving a sports car even though I drove 50MPH all the way home as I want to check everything and get a new clutch before a more spirited drive. I'm hooked.
Here are some pictures of my temporary baby. Hope you like it.
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Well done for finding one, looking at it, it looks a very clean one, you may well end up keeping this one. Glad you found one, they're great cars. ;D
Japanese imports are usually very good unless they've already been here a while.
Glad you found something
Apparently been imported since 2006. An amazing car even though I haven't seen what she can do yet but love the low down feeling in the seat and responsive steering wheel. Id love to keep it but on motorway that 6th gear is really needed. Doing my clutch research ATM. Very clean car though so fingers crossed nothing unexpected shows up. Looks like I'll be able to join the Ding day this year.
Clutch wise. No need to look any further than LUK.
Surprised it needs one after so few miles though.
Regardless of history. I always suggest carrying out your own service.
Oil n filter, air filter, set of sparkies, maf clean and ecu re-set.
Any good quality 5/30 full synth oil will see you right. Your flavour of choice, stock is only semi, so over specing.
you only need 3.7 litres of oil with a filter change.
@Ardent thanks for your reply. Should I get standard LUK or performance one? I hope she wasn't driven too hard to shorten the life.
On it with service but never heard of doing ECU reset, so thanks for the direction. I'll look into that also.
Quote from: Mariorcross on January 23, 2021, 22:52@Ardent thanks for your reply. Should I get standard LUK or performance one? I hope she wasn't driven too hard to shorten the life.
On it with service but never heard of doing ECU reset, so thanks for the direction. I'll look into that also.
[/quotQuote from: Mariorcross on January 23, 2021, 22:52@Ardent thanks for your reply. Should I get standard LUK or performance one? I hope she wasn't driven too hard to shorten the life.
On it with service but never heard of doing ECU reset, so thanks for the direction. I'll look into that also.
ECU reset is not High Tech. Just disconnect positive side of battery while you are changing the plugs, or draining the oil, reconnect and it will gradually reset according to your driving style.
@Joesson thanks for that. Looks like I've shot two birds with one stone as my battery has been disconnected and is in my lounge hooked up to my CTEK automatic battery charger ;D
Nice work Mariorcross :) this is the motivation I need!
@Hammond this site and everyone's stories motivate me. By supporting each other we will keep our cars going on forever. I really can't wait for my first spirited drive.
The clutch has most likely got worn from being slipped. Unless the mileage in 2006 was innacurate...? Any make of clutch will do. Fit a new release bearing. They can handle a lot more than 138bhp. Now's the time to fit a 6 speed.... Or fit 16" rears. Or both.
That's why I want a facelift as I won't have to pay for 6 speed gearbox. I need to read the door label as my understanding MR-S didn't have an LSD fitted as standard, which again is another cost I won't have to incur buying a facelift UK version. This car is a stop gap to get me into the MR2 world. It's a lovely car though and I'm itching to drive it. I'll still keep an eye out for my "one".
Regarding alloys my plan is to find either forged or flow formed Front 8J +25 225/45-16 Rear 9.5J +35 255/40-17. Proving hard to find as I can't find a manufacturer that that does these sizes and when I do they are expensive. I will need to change the wheel hubs to accommodate these size wheels. This is a while down the road but if I find a deal I'll buy them and sit on them till I get my "one" as this car I'll keep standard.
I'd stick with 15" wheels and fit a fl gearbox.
To me these cars are ruined by fitting larger rims.
I've just re read your post
225 front and 255 rear can I ask why?
I don't think they'll even fit .
I still think the most fun is the pfl 185 205 sizes.
Yay! Glad you got one at last, looks good, and the in the best colour! 8)
I spoke to someone with a PFL MR-S import a few weeks ago, they had some chrome pieces and yours looks like it's got chrome mirrors, does it have a chrome screen surround too - can't tell by the photos. They also said the 5 speed gearbox on the import has shorter ratios than the UK 5 speed box but it's great for spirited B-road driving but can be a bit tiresome on motorways, depends how much motorway driving you do I suppose.
Also, from my google'ing and reading various forums and facebook groups, bigger wheels and tyres doesn't really improve things. I've read about racers putting on 15" all round and sticking to stock tyre sizes. Bigger wheels and tyres will surely be more weight too?
Agree with the great driving experience, I usually drive a mwb van but when I drive the MR2 the sensation of speed and the responsive steering make it feel like a race car. It's not a 600bhp supercar but first time I test drove it and put my foot down it had me giggling like a 5 year old and my wife screaming .... have fun! ;D
@1979scotte I'll have a look at what's involved at a FL gearbox but I just feel there are other benefits too. I read a technical toyota article at the changes that were made to the 2004 chassis version that just makes sense to get it.
Regarding alloy sizes, i have a couple of mentors im following. For handling i want to try and replicate the Techno Pro Spirit car as much as possible. They had many many set ups but his record breaking run he had these sizes and he found these worked best so I'm just going to copy him. Obviously, these size tyres work in conjunction with other changes but I'll take things slowly as a long term build.
@SoloNomad Yes it has chrome mirrors and chrome side air intakes. Not sure about other chrome bits as I've only seen it a short time and it's in the garage atm. I can't wait to see what she's like to drive. I have a few B roads that are perfect right on my doorstep but that 6th gear would help for that long cruise across to other parts of the country for different drives.
Yes the tyre thing I'm just copying Techno Pro Spirit. I just have a lot of respect for that car and the people behind it. Im not changing them for a while though as I have Proxies on there now so I'll enjoy these tyres for now.
I have a gutless 1.4l Astra estate and it's a great A to B car, all cars have souls and I do love her, but I can already tell this MR-S is going to give me a buzz. I've had my shifter go kart for the last 12 years so I need something inbetween track sessions and Covid has cancelled trackdays so after a lot of reading these cars for the price are the closest I'll get to my shifter kart. Cant wait to see what she can do.
Talking about 600+bhp I'm asking father Christmas, the tooth fairy, Easter bunny, and anyone else who will listen for a billet block. I can only but dream. Handling first lol
It may look good and go fast on the togue but it won't be as much fun.
The more power you have doesn't mean more fun. I've had stock bhp to around 290 bhp and the only time more power is more fun is I'm a straight line.
One of the strangest threads I've ever read............
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on January 24, 2021, 13:16One of the strangest threads I've ever read............
Surely not?
This one is actually about cars.
@1979scotte i totally agree with you im not after a drag car and was joking. No im thinking either a naturally aspirated 2ZZ or supercharged one but the engine will be the last thing on my list. I want to focus on other things first (handling, brakes, lightening). Can't wait to get stuck in next winter. I may even get another MR2 and upgrade it while driving this one so I'm not off the road as ultimately it is about the driving.
Quote from: Mariorcross on January 24, 2021, 13:24@1979scotte i totally agree with you im not after a drag car and was joking. No im thinking either a naturally aspirated 2ZZ or supercharged one but the engine will be the last thing on my list. I want to focus on other things first (handling, brakes, lightening). Can't wait to get stuck in next winter. I may even get another MR2 and upgrade it while driving this one so I'm not off the road as ultimately it is about the driving.
Try bigger tyres it is your car after all but I'm 85% certain it will ruin the car.
I didn't even like mine with 205 on the front.
This is for a street driven car as I don't go on track.
@1979scotte no I agree with you again. The Techno Pro Spirit has various set ups. The tyres and alloys I mention is more for track focused car. They also go on to say for a street setup to go for Front 205/50-15 Rear 225/45-16. There are Touge set ups too.
They have different spring rates for street, Touge and track too on their Ennepetal dampers street Front 5k Rear 7K to 10k Touge Front 7k/8k Rear 10k Track Front 12k Rear 16k. So ill have to learn how to string line my alignment to save on costs when playing with her.
@Mariocross
This may be of interest to you:
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?msg=746870
@Joesson Thank you so much for the link. I've come across That thread and its the one I'm using to confirm if I have a LSD. I forgot to take a pic of the label and my garage unfortunately is not where I live so can't pop in and have a look. It's a 30min drive away 😟 I'm hoping to go there tomorrow. But thanks again
So couldn't stop thinking about my car so decided to make a start on basic servicing and bought some Castrol Magnatec fully synthetic ready for my oil change, penetrating oil and have made a start at removing the exhaust system by soaking all nuts and bolts in penetrating oil and removing the rear bumper. Love working on this car as it's a true nuts and bolt car.
So after looking at my VIN information unfortunately I have an open differential (C56/01A) 😣 and it's the MR-S S Editon (AKMQH-S). Here are some pics at the start of my job. Hope to get exhaust off tomorrow.
It is possible to put the LSD from a Euro gearbox into it. Jonbill did it.
People pay for those Japanese boxes.
The short gearing is sought-after.
Hi after working with her today as ive already started to feel attached. I feel like I've fostered a dog promising I'll rehome it but end up adopting 😍
Regarding LSDs they cost around £600 So bit expensive for something that's free for UK version.
I wouldn't want to sell the box as being an MR-S they are rarer so would prefer to keep it all original. In fact one thing that is missing is the original Toyota stereo so I need to keep an eye out for one.
Quote from: Mariorcross on January 24, 2021, 21:13Hi after working with her today as ive already started to feel attached. I feel like I've fostered a dog promising I'll rehome it but end up adopting 😍
Regarding LSDs they cost around £600 So bit expensive for something that's free for UK version.
I wouldn't want to sell the box as being an MR-S they are rarer so would prefer to keep it all original. In fact one thing that is missing is the original Toyota stereo so I need to keep an eye out for one.
They weren't standard in Japan.
Somebody is giving away 2 for free on here somewhere.
@1979scotte really? Any idea who or when it was as I would love to install it and don't expect it to be free as I'm happy to pay just not silly money.
Quote from: Mariorcross on January 24, 2021, 23:01@1979scotte really? Any idea who or when it was as I would love to install it and don't expect it to be free as I'm happy to pay just not silly money.
@nutjack posted this in the Audio section:
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?msg=843310
Quote from: Joesson on January 24, 2021, 23:14Quote from: Mariorcross on January 24, 2021, 23:01@1979scotte really? Any idea who or when it was as I would love to install it and don't expect it to be free as I'm happy to pay just not silly money.
@nutjack posted this in the Audio section:
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?msg=843310
if it,s one of the stereo,s they are free to collect wf8 1rt
@nutjack Hi I've just bought a MR-S with the stereo missing and would like to have the stereo on top as it looks like a standard Toyota one. As you are 4.5 hours away could you go to the trouble of posting and I would PayPal or bank transfer you costs? Thank you
So couldnt stay away and spent another day working on the car writing a list of jobs to do. Managed to get the silencer off after much trouble. All bolts are super difficult to remove and snapped one of those notorious "3 amigos". Thank God the previous custodian had the foresight to put copper anti-seize on the lambda sensors so they were no trouble to remove. Going back tomorrow to get the precat and cat off, hopefully.
Now I'm weighing up to sell my current exhaust system (perfectly serviceable) and find a used full stainless steel system (de-precat header, sports cat & silencer). So may I ask would anyone know where I could source a cheap used one please.
Also while under the car I noticed the side cover flywheel housing was missing exposing part of the flywheel to the elements. It has surface rust. As I'm going to change the clutch I'm now thinking do I need to change the flywheel? I know without looking at it, it's hard to know but with others experiences what do you think?
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I think it's a plastic cover that tends to go walkies
Yes, I've read an American company, DDPR, makes a metal one that's bolted on using the two bolts in the housing so I may try fabricating one out of aluminium?
So another day tinkering with my "temporary" beauty. Managed to get the cat off and all the nuts off the header. Snapped one of the 3 amigos so going to have to drill the bolt out 😔
Now I need to decide do I drill out the bolt while the header is on the car or undo the 4 supporting bolts which are difficult to access? I'll try the former but if too troublesome I'll have to take the header off.
So silly me rather than getting a bore scope into the lambda sensor hole assuming there was a precat you'll see in the photo the headers already been gutted. Anyway after inspecting the full exhaust system it's in good condition so I'll reuse it until I find a cheap used full SS system.
The only consellation is I still needed to remove the exhaust so when the engine is released from it's left engine mount and dropped 15 degrees no pressure is put on the cat flexi-pipe when I'm changing the clutch.
The timing chain pretensioner looks rusty but no oil leaks. I'll still change it to just refresh it.
The rear subframe looks in really good condition with very minimal rust. Ill definitely rust proof it but doesnt look like a job that needs doing yet.
The rear sway bar is pretty rusty but it'll do for now until I get a Cusco upgrade. Don't want to take too many jobs on as I want her ready for the sunny days due in April and drive her. Have to balance love and attention with driving.
About to order an engine service kit and my clutch/gearbox oil tonight.
Getting attached to my little baby as every day passes.
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Remember the subframe needs protection on the inside. That is where it starts to corrode .
@1979scotte Yes thanks. I'm still open how to do this. Not a fan of waxoyl as not sure it's permanent enough. I'll have to read more on this subject to figure a nice solution.
Quote from: Mariorcross on January 28, 2021, 09:45@1979scotte Yes thanks. I'm still open how to do this. Not a fan of waxoyl as not sure it's permanent enough. I'll have to read more on this subject to figure a nice solution.
@Carolyn says you need to seal it at the top to stop the moisture getting in.
If you can stop the waxoyl getting out should work fine. Have had to seep out once it was warmed by the exhaust on a turbo car.
This is how I do them.
Firstly though: The reason they rust from the inside and right over where the exhaust passes underneath, is that's where the salt and corrosive stuff sits, after it gets in through the holes at the four top corners. The heat of the exhaust speeds up the electrolytic corrosion.
So:
I seal up the corners (I use the Dirko grey engine sealant 'cos I always have some and it's really tough) to keep the wet and muck out. No moisture and no fresh oxygen = no rust.
Then I clean around the little drain holes that you'll find under the control arm mounts, and tape them shut.. They are little - but they are there. This stops any corrosion treatment running straight back out!
Then I pop out one of the rubber plugs on the top of the cross-member and pour in a liquid treatment then, using a little washing-up liquid as a lube, I put the plug back.. I actually like Waxoyl for this, 'cos it will spread itself around as the car is driven and give and even coating.
Quote from: Mariorcross on January 28, 2021, 09:45@1979scotte Yes thanks. I'm still open how to do this. Not a fan of waxoyl as not sure it's permanent enough. I'll have to read more on this subject to figure a nice solution.
Have a look at Bilt Hamber products.
https://www.bilthamber.com/
Sounds good. Ok I'll keep that process in mind when I take on that job as I want to try and preserve it. I've also got a sand blasting cabinet so there are lots of parts that need treatment and then can be protected with stone chip.
Not for a job until next winter though as it's in pretty good condition and I really just want to drive her for now.
Some goodies arrived today. Will be collecting my Castrol Fully synthetic oil end of week.
Never heard of MPM gearbox oil but after a bit of reading looks like good stuff. I like spoiling my beauty.
Your beauty certainly has landed on its feet thanks to you. ;D
@Chilli Girl I always have loved mechanical things and driving and I've learnt look after my beauty and she'll look after me. I really want to drive her so I want to make sure she's in good condition. Anyway it's only the start. I've got lot more jobs to do over the next few years on her (if I keep her 😆)
Hi it's been a while since I've posted. Before today I was considering keeping this MR2 as a stop gap until I found my ideal MR2 but after what my mechanic said I think I've decided to keep this car but look for a second MR2 as id like to keep this one standard and id like to find one to modify.
So rather than changing the clutch myself I bit the bullet and paid a mechanic so it can be completed in a day rather than taking too long as I'm really keen to drive it. I learnt a lot by watching him and he gave a lot of good learning points.
So the mechanic did say the car has been looked after in the past as bushes have been replaced recently, brake system completely replaced, absolutely no oil leaks from the engine, a complete service was conducted as air filter and oil filter was brand new and oil was still golden, no rot, very little surface rust, all bolts copper greased and really he was surprised how easy everything came apart. He did say I found a good deal and if anything did come up it shouldn't be major problem and can be fixed but as an underlying car it's a good find so I'm really happy and have decided to keep her.
So as you can see from the pictures he changed to a LUK clutch, pressure plate and thrust bearing. He copper greased everything and tightened all nuts to a wet torque spec. He used Preparation M, which is £200 per 100ml high temperature, high pressure, long maintenance grease for the thrust bearing. Anyway I'm very happy with his job.
So all I need to do is buy some fresh bolts and nuts for the exhaust system, re service the car so everything's fresh and wait for the next dry day that's out of lockdown. I really can't wait for my first sunny spring drive.
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These cars might be rare, but they are not complicated or sophisticated.
A local, trusted, solid knowledgeable mechanic is worth knowing and paying for.
LUK. loving mine.
Oil arrived ready for the next few services 😆
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Just received my Aerospace Protectant 303 today which I'll work into my soft top after cleaning my little baby.
Just finished a full service but I needed to Dremel cut some divets into the oil dip stick so it was easier to read the oil levels.
I've spent a good few hours trying to extract one of the 3 amigos that snapped. I started by putting some serious heat with a gas burner until the header was glowing red. Then I tried drilling it out with a reverse drill bit and extractor no joy as the tread was rusted. The final solution which finally worked was to use an Amecoil.
So half the job has been done and I hope to get the exhaust and bumper back on tomorrow. Then a nice polish, insure, tax and go for a shake down. Not long now.
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The 303 is excellent stuff, used on both my previous 2's
@Chilli Girl yes I read some good reviews on here so decided to jump in and see how it goes. I'm scouring the website to see what else I need to do as well as read Toyota's service, owners and parts manual as I really want to get to know my 2 as much as possible. I want to keep her going even when everyone's driving flying electric cars lol