Can I pressure clean the struts after I wire brushed them? Want to remove the dirt so I can paint them.
Quote from: Nvy on June 6, 2021, 18:26Can I pressure clean the struts after I wire brushed them? Want to remove the dirt so I can paint them.
Can't see why not... You're removing the guts anyway. As long as you thoroughly dry and lubricate the inside before you slide the Konis in.
Quote from: Nvy on June 6, 2021, 18:26Can I pressure clean the struts after I wire brushed them? Want to remove the dirt so I can paint them.
I think I would use a bucket full of soapy water and a brush. Otherwise you will
"clean" everything, including yourself, within quite a range of a pressure washer.
I removed most of the rust and will take them to a car wash to remove the dust from them. Then will dry them with a towel and will paint them. After that will take them to a guy to cut them and slide the inserts in.
Quote from: Nvy on June 6, 2021, 18:55I removed most of the rust and will take them to a car wash to remove the dust from them. Then will dry them with a towel and will paint them. After that will take them to a guy to cut them and slide the inserts in.
If they are really that dirty are you sure that they are in good condition underneath that dirt?
Medium / shot/ sand blasting would be the best way of cleaning and preparing for a paint finish.
Quote from: Joesson on June 6, 2021, 19:06Quote from: Nvy on June 6, 2021, 18:55I removed most of the rust and will take them to a car wash to remove the dust from them. Then will dry them with a towel and will paint them. After that will take them to a guy to cut them and slide the inserts in.
If they are really that dirty are you sure that they are in good condition underneath that dirt?
Medium / shot/ sand blasting would be the best way of cleaning and preparing for a paint finish.
Sand blasting them would cost the same as brand new KYBs. They are charging 50 euros per strut, already asked that :D They are not that rusty, I threated them with a rust something, it makes the rust look orange and can be painted on top of it
Quote from: Nvy on June 6, 2021, 19:20Quote from: Joesson on June 6, 2021, 19:06Quote from: Nvy on June 6, 2021, 18:55I removed most of the rust and will take them to a car wash to remove the dust from them. Then will dry them with a towel and will paint them. After that will take them to a guy to cut them and slide the inserts in.
If they are really that dirty are you sure that they are in good condition underneath that dirt?
Medium / shot/ sand blasting would be the best way of cleaning and preparing for a paint finish.
Sand blasting them would cost the same as brand new KYBs. They are charging 50 euros per strut, already asked that :D They are not that rusty, I threated them with a rust something, it makes the rust look orange and can be painted on top of it
Best ain't always cost effective, but that sounds like highway robbery.
Quote from: Joesson on June 6, 2021, 19:29Quote from: Nvy on June 6, 2021, 19:20Quote from: Joesson on June 6, 2021, 19:06Quote from: Nvy on June 6, 2021, 18:55I removed most of the rust and will take them to a car wash to remove the dust from them. Then will dry them with a towel and will paint them. After that will take them to a guy to cut them and slide the inserts in.
If they are really that dirty are you sure that they are in good condition underneath that dirt?
Medium / shot/ sand blasting would be the best way of cleaning and preparing for a paint finish.
Sand blasting them would cost the same as brand new KYBs. They are charging 50 euros per strut, already asked that :D They are not that rusty, I threated them with a rust something, it makes the rust look orange and can be painted on top of it
Best ain't always cost effective, but that sounds like highway robbery.
Before I bought new springs I asked them to sandblast my old ones.They asked for 120 euros for all 4, I just went ahead and bought new Eibach for 135 delivered. Price is just insane.
Quote from: Nvy on June 6, 2021, 19:33Quote from: Joesson on June 6, 2021, 19:29Quote from: Nvy on June 6, 2021, 19:20Quote from: Joesson on June 6, 2021, 19:06Quote from: Nvy on June 6, 2021, 18:55I removed most of the rust and will take them to a car wash to remove the dust from them. Then will dry them with a towel and will paint them. After that will take them to a guy to cut them and slide the inserts in.
If they are really that dirty are you sure that they are in good condition underneath that dirt?
Medium / shot/ sand blasting would be the best way of cleaning and preparing for a paint finish.
Sand blasting them would cost the same as brand new KYBs. They are charging 50 euros per strut, already asked that :D They are not that rusty, I threated them with a rust something, it makes the rust look orange and can be painted on top of it
Best ain't always cost effective, but that sounds like highway robbery.
Before I bought new springs I asked them to sandblast my old ones.They asked for 120 euros for all 4, I just went ahead and bought new Eibach for 135 delivered. Price is just insane.
Agreed.
Quote from: Nvy on June 6, 2021, 18:55I removed most of the rust and will take them to a car wash to remove the dust from them. Then will dry them with a towel and will paint them. After that will take them to a guy to cut them and slide the inserts in.
You should buy an angle-grinder & do it yourself. I bought one for 1st time aged 60. Useful tool.
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on June 6, 2021, 22:55Quote from: Nvy on June 6, 2021, 18:55I removed most of the rust and will take them to a car wash to remove the dust from them. Then will dry them with a towel and will paint them. After that will take them to a guy to cut them and slide the inserts in.
You should buy an angle-grinder & do it yourself. I bought one for 1st time aged 60. Useful tool.
I think its going to be the case with me too as nobody seems to cut shocks in Sofia lol. Called 3 "tuning" places and nobody wants to do it, I will give them many labor hours business but they seems that dont care about my money..
Quote from: Nvy on June 7, 2021, 10:31Quote from: Gaz mr-s on June 6, 2021, 22:55Quote from: Nvy on June 6, 2021, 18:55I removed most of the rust and will take them to a car wash to remove the dust from them. Then will dry them with a towel and will paint them. After that will take them to a guy to cut them and slide the inserts in.
You should buy an angle-grinder & do it yourself. I bought one for 1st time aged 60. Useful tool.
I think its going to be the case with me too as nobody seems to cut shocks in Sofia lol. Called 3 "tuning" places and nobody wants to do it, I will give them many labor hours business but they seems that dont care about my money..
Most of them will not have heard of it before, & will just be used to selling new parts. It's not difficult, just make sure you leave enough strut length to allow the 'nibs' on the Koni to go inside the strut housing. I first cut near the top to get the KYB cartridge out, then doing the 2nd cut was easier with the cartridge out.
There are steps that are printed in the box, for mr2 it says 65mm from the crown. Shouldnt be that hard but I dont have the tools or a vise. Will look for some other shops and if nobody want to do it will go ahead and buy the stuff and do it myself.
Theres a video online of how to do them, fairly straight forward
https://youtu.be/PXSnNZt3NiI
Quote from: Nvy on June 7, 2021, 11:57There are steps that are printed in the box, for mr2 it says 65mm from the crown. Shouldnt be that hard but I dont have the tools or a vise. Will look for some other shops and if nobody want to do it will go ahead and buy the stuff and do it myself.
As you have the motivation to do things for yourself buying tools as you need them to do a job is a good way of collecting a toolset.
Rather than a vise which would need a bench you could consider a WorkMate or similar folding bench/ vise.
A small hand grinder, mains or battery determined by your circumstances, mains are cheaper, with thin cutting discs. I suggest a small grinder as more useful around the car and the large ones are heavy to use.
Compared to hourly work rates tools are cheap!
I have done a number of Koni installs and just used a hacksaw to cut the housing, using the measurements with the insert instructions. If in doubt, don't cut as far down. You can always make a second cut, but adding to a too short housing ...... Then the cut was cleaned up with a flat file. Try to make the cut square, but if isn't off much, it won't matter.
The hardest part is probably drilling the hole for the lower bolt in the center of the housing. If you miss a bit, just make a slightly larger whole. I also had a couple inserts when the weld around the bottom of the cartridge had a slight high spot that needed to be filled off to fit smoothly in the housing.
If all done correctly, it may take a slight amount of force to push the insert completely into the housing. Make sure the insert is fully bottomed before installing the bolt. The threads on the bottom of the insert aren't that deep, so using the bolt to pull in the insert is not a great idea. I learned the hard way on the first one I installed!
Quote from: Beachbum957 on June 7, 2021, 14:21I have done a number of Koni installs and just used a hacksaw to cut the housing, using the measurements with the insert instructions. If in doubt, don't cut as far down. You can always make a second cut, but adding to a too short housing ...... Then the cut was cleaned up with a flat file. Try to make the cut square, but if isn't off much, it won't matter.
The hardest part is probably drilling the hole for the lower bolt in the center of the housing. If you miss a bit, just make a slightly larger whole. I also had a couple inserts when the weld around the bottom of the cartridge had a slight high spot that needed to be filled off to fit smoothly in the housing.
If all done correctly, it may take a slight amount of force to push the insert completely into the housing. Make sure the insert is fully bottomed before installing the bolt. The threads on the bottom of the insert aren't that deep, so using the bolt to pull in the insert is not a great idea. I learned the hard way on the first one I installed!
I did some measurements today and 65mm is almost down to the crown that the spring sits on. Maybe about a cm left. Is that how it is supposed to be?
20200415_161423.jpg
For extra reassurance lay an insert with the bottom of the insert aligned. Make sure the insert 'nibs' will align inside the strut housing.
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on June 12, 2021, 19:1020200415_161423.jpg
For extra reassurance lay an insert with the bottom of the insert aligned. Make sure the insert 'nibs' will align inside the strut housing.
Did your fronts had a smaller upper part? It starts couple of cm above the spring seat.
If you are meaning is the length of the front housing above the spring seat different front & rear, yes, think they were. Laying them alongside each other should tell you....
So the instructions are a bit wrong I think I will take lots of pics and will write how to for dummies after that. Fronts has to be cut way down than the rears but the instructions say 65mm on both.
Quote from: Nvy on June 14, 2021, 09:05So the instructions are a bit wrong I think I will take lots of pics and will write how to for dummies after that. Fronts has to be cut way down than the rears but the instructions say 65mm on both.
Yes, I'd forgotten about that. Since most Dutch speak English well & the size of the company, the wee sheets are a joke.
The Koni instructions are not correct or rather partially correct. 65mm is correct for the front as that is right at the point the housing flares out to the larger diameter. The boot for the shock body on the front will bottom on the spring mount.
But the rear should be cut just below the "cap" on the strut or about 30 mm. I just verified with an old strut and a worn out rear Koni insert I have.
Quote from: Beachbum957 on June 14, 2021, 16:47The Koni instructions are not correct or rather partially correct. 65mm is correct for the front as that is right at the point the housing flares out to the larger diameter. The boot for the shock body on the front will bottom on the spring mount.
But the rear should be cut just below the "cap" on the strut or about 30 mm. I just verified with an old strut and a worn out rear Koni insert I have.
So I cut one of the rears but it seems that the insert doesnt want to go all the way in. It stops at about 45-46mm away from the nibs. Should I force it with a rubber mallet or?
I had one that was tight. I lubed it & worked it & persuaded it in.
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on June 20, 2021, 12:43I had one that was tight. I lubed it & worked it & persuaded it in.
Tried to give it a push and it didnt work, I am afraid not to break anything
Quote from: Nvy on June 20, 2021, 12:48Quote from: Gaz mr-s on June 20, 2021, 12:43I had one that was tight. I lubed it & worked it & persuaded it in.
Tried to give it a push and it didnt work, I am afraid not to break anything
Rotate it, & lube it....you might need a vice. Maybe a small wire brush in a drill or a half-round file. Are both inserts the same in that strut?
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on June 20, 2021, 13:00Quote from: Nvy on June 20, 2021, 12:48Quote from: Gaz mr-s on June 20, 2021, 12:43I had one that was tight. I lubed it & worked it & persuaded it in.
Tried to give it a push and it didnt work, I am afraid not to break anything
Rotate it, & lube it....you might need a vice. Maybe a small wire brush in a drill or a half-round file. Are both inserts the same in that strut?
2nd shock cut and the insert went right in. Ill try the other insert in an hour
The other insert will fit with some wiggle. Took me 4 hours and a broken back to cut these. All in all I am happy with the work done, need to degrease them and paint them.
Quote from: Nvy on June 20, 2021, 18:16The other insert will fit with some wiggle. Took me 4 hours and a broken back to cut these. All in all I am happy with the work done, need to degrease them and paint them.
Should have got an angle-grinder....makes it a doddle
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on June 20, 2021, 18:49Quote from: Nvy on June 20, 2021, 18:16The other insert will fit with some wiggle. Took me 4 hours and a broken back to cut these. All in all I am happy with the work done, need to degrease them and paint them.
Should have got an angle-grinder....makes it a doddle
Bought too much stuff this time - vice, workmate and some bits to make the holes. The angle grinder is for the next time I need it.
Any tips how to enlarge the hole w/o screwing it all? I have 3 mm, 8mm and 13mm drilling bits.
Quote from: Nvy on June 21, 2021, 15:51Any tips how to enlarge the hole w/o screwing it all? I have 3 mm, 8mm and 13mm drilling bits.
What hole/ what is the hole in, is it in the correct position, what size is it now and what size do you want it to be?
Quote from: Joesson on June 21, 2021, 16:08Quote from: Nvy on June 21, 2021, 15:51Any tips how to enlarge the hole w/o screwing it all? I have 3 mm, 8mm and 13mm drilling bits.
What hole/ what is the hole in, is it in the correct position, what size is it now and what size do you want it to be?
I need to get it from 3 mm to 13 mm. Its more or less in the correct position at the moment. All 4 shocks have 3 mm hole at the bottom. I have just the hand drill so it can move very easy if my hands are shaky thats why I am asking for tips.
Double post!
Quote from: Joesson on June 21, 2021, 18:48Quote from: Nvy on June 21, 2021, 17:02Quote from: Joesson on June 21, 2021, 16:08Quote from: Nvy on June 21, 2021, 15:51Any tips how to enlarge the hole w/o screwing it all? I have 3 mm, 8mm and 13mm drilling bits.
What hole/ what is the hole in, is it in the correct position, what size is it now and what size do you want it to be?
I need to get it from 3 mm to 13 mm. Its more or less in the correct position at the moment. All 4 shocks have 3 mm hole at the bottom. I have just the hand drill so it can move very easy if my hands are shaky thats why I am asking for tips.
If you have this type of hand drill:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-1mm-8mm-Hand-Drill-Colour/dp/B00004UDKT/ref=asc_df_B00004UDKT/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226606326869&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14446398747908571103&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006976&hvtargid=pla-486293491837&psc=1&th=1&psc=1
Then you will find it VERY difficult to drill out to 13mm using twist drills of 5/ 8 /13 mm diameter as you will be trying to remove a great amount of steel.
The " more or less" correct position could also be a problem dependent open the fixing diameter.
My advice is to invest in an electric hand drill. Mains or battery powered according to your situation.
Drilling any hole typically requires a good Centre position, created with a centre punch and ideally a centre drill. Otherwise the punch and a small diameter twist drill. The diameter of the twist drill increased incrementally up to the required diameter.
If you cannot obtain an electric drill you could try with twist drills increasing in say 1 mm increments maybe possible with a hand drill.
A better alternative could be a cone bit:
https://www.edwardes.co.uk/products/alpen-721003141-conecut-size-1-hss-taper-drill-3-5mm-to-14mm?gclid=CjwKCAjw8cCGBhB6EiwAgORey8yChmtistYExajLn9fb0sssULwsAgJJ6WXZG8olZncx3NUpAExWbBoCSHAQAvD_BwE
This would give a progressive increment as the cone enters the work piece.
Remember that a reasonable quality tool will last for more than one project and gradually you will accumulate a selection that will help with many projects.
Quote from: Joesson on June 21, 2021, 18:50Quote from: Joesson on June 21, 2021, 18:48Quote from: Nvy on June 21, 2021, 17:02Quote from: Joesson on June 21, 2021, 16:08Quote from: Nvy on June 21, 2021, 15:51Any tips how to enlarge the hole w/o screwing it all? I have 3 mm, 8mm and 13mm drilling bits.
What hole/ what is the hole in, is it in the correct position, what size is it now and what size do you want it to be?
I need to get it from 3 mm to 13 mm. Its more or less in the correct position at the moment. All 4 shocks have 3 mm hole at the bottom. I have just the hand drill so it can move very easy if my hands are shaky thats why I am asking for tips.
If you have this type of hand drill:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-1mm-8mm-Hand-Drill-Colour/dp/B00004UDKT/ref=asc_df_B00004UDKT/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226606326869&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14446398747908571103&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006976&hvtargid=pla-486293491837&psc=1&th=1&psc=1
Then you will find it VERY difficult to drill out to 13mm using twist drills of 5/ 8 /13 mm diameter as you will be trying to remove a great amount of steel.
The " more or less" correct position could also be a problem dependent open the fixing diameter.
My advice is to invest in an electric hand drill. Mains or battery powered according to your situation.
Drilling any hole typically requires a good Centre position, created with a centre punch and ideally a centre drill. Otherwise the punch and a small diameter twist drill. The diameter of the twist drill increased incrementally up to the required diameter.
If you cannot obtain an electric drill you could try with twist drills increasing in say 1 mm increments maybe possible with a hand drill.
An alternative could be a cone bit:
https://www.edwardes.co.uk/products/alpen-721003141-conecut-size-1-hss-taper-drill-3-5mm-to-14mm?gclid=CjwKCAjw8cCGBhB6EiwAgORey8yChmtistYExajLn9fb0sssULwsAgJJ6WXZG8olZncx3NUpAExWbBoCSHAQAvD_BwE
This would give a progressive increment as the cone enters the work piece.
Remember that a reasonable quality tool will last for more than one project and gradually you will accumulate a selection that will help with many projects.
I do have electric drill ofc, this one https://www.bosch-diy.com/gb/en/p/pbh-2100-re-06033a9300-v28382 . No idea how to be more precise and to stop my hands from shaking. The 3mm was quite easy coz I used a centre punch and was like a walk in the park.
Quote from: Nvy on June 21, 2021, 19:01Quote from: Joesson on June 21, 2021, 18:50Quote from: Joesson on June 21, 2021, 18:48Quote from: Nvy on June 21, 2021, 17:02Quote from: Joesson on June 21, 2021, 16:08Quote from: Nvy on June 21, 2021, 15:51Any tips how to enlarge the hole w/o screwing it all? I have 3 mm, 8mm and 13mm drilling bits.
What hole/ what is the hole in, is it in the correct position, what size is it now and what size do you want it to be?
I need to get it from 3 mm to 13 mm. Its more or less in the correct position at the moment. All 4 shocks have 3 mm hole at the bottom. I have just the hand drill so it can move very easy if my hands are shaky thats why I am asking for tips.
If you have this type of hand drill:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-1mm-8mm-Hand-Drill-Colour/dp/B00004UDKT/ref=asc_df_B00004UDKT/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226606326869&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14446398747908571103&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006976&hvtargid=pla-486293491837&psc=1&th=1&psc=1
Then you will find it VERY difficult to drill out to 13mm using twist drills of 5/ 8 /13 mm diameter as you will be trying to remove a great amount of steel.
The " more or less" correct position could also be a problem dependent open the fixing diameter.
My advice is to invest in an electric hand drill. Mains or battery powered according to your situation.
Drilling any hole typically requires a good Centre position, created with a centre punch and ideally a centre drill. Otherwise the punch and a small diameter twist drill. The diameter of the twist drill increased incrementally up to the required diameter.
If you cannot obtain an electric drill you could try with twist drills increasing in say 1 mm increments maybe possible with a hand drill.
An alternative could be a cone bit:
https://www.edwardes.co.uk/products/alpen-721003141-conecut-size-1-hss-taper-drill-3-5mm-to-14mm?gclid=CjwKCAjw8cCGBhB6EiwAgORey8yChmtistYExajLn9fb0sssULwsAgJJ6WXZG8olZncx3NUpAExWbBoCSHAQAvD_BwE
This would give a progressive increment as the cone enters the work piece.
Remember that a reasonable quality tool will last for more than one project and gradually you will accumulate a selection that will help with many projects.
I do have electric drill ofc, this one https://www.bosch-diy.com/gb/en/p/pbh-2100-re-06033a9300-v28382 . No idea how to be more precise and to stop my hands from shaking. The 3mm was quite easy coz I used a centre punch and was like a walk in the park.
Then you are half way there.
Now that you have a pilot hole the rest will be relatively easy as the centre of the progressive diameter drill is centred with the pilot/ preceding drill.
3- 5 should not be a problem. 5-8 could be slightly harder going with what is called " chatter " from the two cutting edges of the twist drill. Similarly 8-13 could chatter, a resultant of the largish differential in diameter and the thin material and the two cutting edges.
Keep a firm downward pressure and try one step at a time. If it doesn't work invest in more twist drills of varying diameters or a cone drill.
Try a drop of engine oil on the drill tip/ work piece.
All done, cut and drilled. Used a stepped drill bit that wasnt of a very good quality but it worked at the end. Have the holes 12mm and can be enlarged a bit if its not enough. Have an appointment with a shop to fit these for me, just waiting on camber bolts to arrive next week.
@Gaz mr-s The guys are installing the suspension atm and called me to say that the rear springs are not touching the top mounts and that the spring can be installed w/o a spring compressor. Is the same with your installation?
Also the fronts shocks, where the bolt for the insert is, are almost hitting the drop links when the steering wheel is straight.
No idea if they did it correctly but from my point of view it seems that they did something wrong again :(
Edit: I have brand new Eibach springs and before that I had TTE but needed to compress them quite a lot in order to remove them.
Quote from: Nvy on July 9, 2021, 13:57@Gaz mr-s The guys are installing the suspension atm and called me to say that the rear springs are not touching the top mounts and that the spring can be installed w/o a spring compressor. Is the same with your installation?
Also the fronts shocks, where the bolt for the insert is, are almost hitting the drop links when the steering wheel is straight.
No idea if they did it correctly but from my point of view it seems that they did something wrong again :(
Edit: I have brand new Eibach springs and before that I had TTE but needed to compress them quite a lot in order to remove them.
Some lowering springs like Tein or H&R may have very little preload. Not sure about the Eibach. As a reference, the uncompressed length for rear Tein and H&R springs are both 310 mm. Stock is about 350 mm
If the inserts are fully bottomed in the housing, you should be fine. Just verify with the installers that the insert is fully bottomed, but if they got the bolt installed and properly torqued, it should be all the way in.
The bolt for the front inserts may get every close to the sway bar link or even touch when jacked up and the suspension is extended. The clearance is fine when the suspension is compressed. On one car with an aftermarket sway bar link, we had to cut a bit off the top rubber for the link mounting stud to get the link slightly lower so it didn't hit when extended.
My Koni's came with H & R springs, I can't remember the other brand the kits can come with...may be Eibach?
But the springs will be very similar, & yes do need compression before fitting.
The front & rear springs are very similar lengths, but the rear should look thicker metal (assumption) & the spring diameter of the rear at the bottom is larger than the front.
"Also the fronts shocks, where the bolt for the insert is, are almost hitting the drop links when the steering wheel is straight."...... sorry, not understanding what you mean by that.
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on July 9, 2021, 14:53My Koni's came with H & R springs, I can't remember the other brand the kits can come with...may be Eibach?
But the springs will be very similar, & yes do need compression before fitting.
The front & rear springs are very similar lengths, but the rear should look thicker metal (assumption) & the spring diameter of the rear at the bottom is larger than the front.
"Also the fronts shocks, where the bolt for the insert is, are almost hitting the drop links when the steering wheel is straight."...... sorry, not understanding what you mean by that.
Both rear insert and spring are larger diameter so this cant be wrong but maybe the insert didnt go all the way in or they did something wrong as they pressed them using a hydraulic press.
Here is a video of what I meant for the fronts, sorry my english is rly bad
https://youtu.be/KCUevT-n-HE
Beachbum understood you.....listen to him he's dealt with them a lot more than me.
Just checking....your struts are KYB? I saw a facebook post a few days ago that the Koni inserts would not fit in an aftermarket strut.
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on July 9, 2021, 15:30Beachbum understood you.....listen to him he's dealt with them a lot more than me.
Just checking....your struts are KYB? I saw a facebook post a few days ago that the Koni inserts would not fit in an aftermarket strut.
That's very interesting... It was an option for me. Not anymore but I'm glad I didn't break the bank on a new set of KYBs to put Konis in
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on July 9, 2021, 15:30Beachbum understood you.....listen to him he's dealt with them a lot more than me.
Just checking....your struts are KYB? I saw a facebook post a few days ago that the Koni inserts would not fit in an aftermarket strut.
Yeah Kyb
Quote from: Beachbum957 on July 9, 2021, 14:44Quote from: Nvy on July 9, 2021, 13:57@Gaz mr-s The guys are installing the suspension atm and called me to say that the rear springs are not touching the top mounts and that the spring can be installed w/o a spring compressor. Is the same with your installation?
Also the fronts shocks, where the bolt for the insert is, are almost hitting the drop links when the steering wheel is straight.
No idea if they did it correctly but from my point of view it seems that they did something wrong again :(
Edit: I have brand new Eibach springs and before that I had TTE but needed to compress them quite a lot in order to remove them.
Some lowering springs like Tein or H&R may have very little preload. Not sure about the Eibach. As a reference, the uncompressed length for rear Tein and H&R springs are both 310 mm. Stock is about 350 mm
If the inserts are fully bottomed in the housing, you should be fine. Just verify with the installers that the insert is fully bottomed, but if they got the bolt installed and properly torqued, it should be all the way in.
The bolt for the front inserts may get every close to the sway bar link or even touch when jacked up and the suspension is extended. The clearance is fine when the suspension is compressed. On one car with an aftermarket sway bar link, we had to cut a bit off the top rubber for the link mounting stud to get the link slightly lower so it didn't hit when extended.
They said that they torqued everything to spec, couple of things can go wrong with the rears:
1. Insert not bottomed out
2. Metal spacer not in the right place but they wouldnt be able to tighten the nut if its not there
3. Top mounts can be somehow different
No idea honestly, I will check them out myself when I get the car back
Quote from: shnazzle on July 9, 2021, 15:43Just checking....your struts are KYB? I saw a facebook post a few days ago that the Koni inserts would not fit in an aftermarket strut.
That's very interesting... It was an option for me. Not anymore but I'm glad I didn't break the bank on a new set of KYBs to put Konis in
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Facebook being what it is, there was no further discussion on it...so I don't know more.
I cant find the length of the springs but I used to have TTE which are supposed to be the same and I had to compress them quite a lot to get them off the shocks.
Quote from: Nvy on July 9, 2021, 15:46They said that they torqued everything to spec, couple of things can go wrong with the rears:
1. Insert not bottomed out
2. Metal spacer not in the right place but they wouldnt be able to tighten the nut if its not there
3. Top mounts can be somehow different
No idea honestly, I will check them out myself when I get the car back
(edited)
1.KYB made the OEM struts and they measure the same (I have both). If the insert was pressed in and they could torque the bolt, the insert would have to be bottomed. The bolt is not very long
2. This could be a problem as the spacer goes on the
top of the mount under the nut. If they put it under the mount, the nut will still tighten, but the mount will be too high and there would be very little preload
3. Very unlikely as there are very few mounts available other than OEM
Some data is hard to confirm, but Eibach supposedly made the TTE springs, but to a different spec than the ones they sold directly. I don't have any spec on the aftermarket Eibach other than a picture, but they seem very similar in length to other lowering springs. A lowering spring is stiffer than stock and compresses less, so they are going to be much shorter than OEM.
Eibach has not made springs for the MRS for quite some time now (probably close to a year), so make sure you have the right springs.
The video of the front is completely normal. The bolt may hit the sway bar link when the suspension is fully extended. Under a normal load, it does not. So unless you are driving in a manner where the front suspension becomes completely extended (such as getting airborne ;D ), you should never have a problem
Now we know, they installed the spacer below the mount. I told them on the phone a while ago but they thought they knew better.. will redo it until tomorrow free of charge.
I guess they didn't pay attention to how it came apart. >:(
You'd do better yourself Nvy, learning from here.
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on July 15, 2021, 17:57You'd do better yourself Nvy, learning from here.
For sure but I wanted the job done fast because yday I had to send the car for a full respray. Not that didnt get the job done but kept my car for 9 days.. now I have to make another appointment for the respray :(