I'm planing on fitting a 2DIN head unit in my face lift MR2, with information on here I've managed to take out the Toyota head unit with no issues
As we know in the MR2 the space for the head unit it a bit larger than the standard size 2DIN head unit so I plan on. Using the Toyota head unit's Fascia Plate, to my question how do I take this off without doing any damage? I've tried using these tools I bought off eBay with a bit of force with no luck:
(https://i.postimg.cc/WbT1h5SR/tools.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hhZBYbHM)
I fear I might do some damage if I use too much force before knowing what exactly is needed to take this Fascia Plate off
(https://i.postimg.cc/x1s8rLKw/rad1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hGfjKhsf/rad2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vmkmTM2X/rad3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Many thanks for any possible assistants
I know I'm not the best person to answer this. But I recall. You cannot just prize offg the facia. Other bits have to be removed.
Sure
@SV-3 told me when he done his.
Others will be along who do know.
Think it tucks up under the heater controls or something
As above, I'm not the one to answer your question but I would like to think that amongst that plethora of tools you have what is needed to do the job.
Quote from: Ardent on November 27, 2021, 21:25I know I'm not the best person to answer this. But I recall. You cannot just prize offg the facia. Other bits have to be removed.
Sure @SV-3 told me when he done his.
Others will be along who do know.
Think it tucks up under the heater controls or something
If I remember correctly there are two 'tabs' each side (lh and rh) that clip into the casing.
I think you just have to 'ease' them - as you have the unit out you will hopefully see what I mean.
Thank you for your fast response, it gave me confidence to use a bit more force with the removal/pry tools
In a few moments the facia panel was off with no damage
(https://i.postimg.cc/NFHtnHgw/IMG-0676-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)\
As mentioned there were 3 lugs on either side of the facia panel
(https://i.postimg.cc/KzVFQNhN/IMG-0677-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mDhBQnJk/IMG-0678-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
once I had one end off the other just slid off, many many thanks for this help :)
Now you just need to show us what you've fitted in place of the OE unit.
Quote from: Joesson on November 27, 2021, 22:24Now you just need to show us what you've fitted in place of the OE unit.
My initial plan was to get a simple 1DIN radio that had the feature of accepting a microSD card and play MP3's off the card
Once I started my search for a 1DIN head unit I was constantly coming across the 2DIN units
I was impressed with how much was packed in these 2DIN so now on the lookout for a no name Chinese 2DIN unit, having driven one or two hire cars that had most controls on a flat screen, one thing I'll be looking out for it a unit that has manual buttons so I don't need to be taking my eyes off the road to change track or station on the head unit
A couple of years back I hired a Citroen C4, never again, this car had most of it's controls on a touch screen, having no idea if you moved your finger over the right icon or how far you had moved it
so while driving on the motorway there was no way I could alter the heater, radio and a few more controls without taking my eyes off the road for what felt like ages, just to lower the A/C, I ended up having to wait till I got to a service station off the motorway before I could alter the temp in the car, some things are best left alone
Good call.
Nice big buttons is the way here.
Touch screen in general do not work well in a 2. Esp with the top down.
Just glare and reflection.
Quote from: Ardent on November 28, 2021, 00:14Good call.
Nice big buttons is the way here.
Touch screen in general do not work well in a 2. Esp with the top down.
Just glare and reflection.
I'm looking at the "nice big buttons" on the OE unit and comparing them to the tiny buttons on my aftermarket unit fitted (by previous owner) that I can't find without looking, very much also a set it up before you go. Just maybe Mr T's audio engineers knew what they were doing!
@MollydogDon't forget to 'install' an 'aerial defeat' switch 8)
My plan was to replace my non working Toyota factory fitted head unit with one of those no name Chines Android head units in the footwell,
Testing the location out with my 7" tablet, as I had suspected it's not really the best location for a visual head unit, bad enough with the factory fitted one where you didn't really had to look too often for the switches or knobs, but for a touch screen head unit, it's a road accident waiting to happen
Reading up on here I see that at one time Toyota made a nav-pod for the MR2, something that looks like it's been dead and buried a long time ago,
I've read on threads (on here) that there is turismo.uk.com that lists these nav-pods for £80 but I've not been able to get to see any images of these Pods, has anyone on here have any images of these pods Turismo make?
@PetrusDid your son ever take the 3D scanning of the nav-pod any further?
As I've made up my mine if I can possibly do it I'll have the head unit on the dash
Like this
https://youtu.be/W6G9cmpWQE8
The other question I have is this, the head unit I think will meet most of my needs is this one. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001234270621.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.643c2e0eP5ehfz
(https://i.postimg.cc/FKLSXKPN/Screenshot-2021-12-20-at-7-43-12-pm.png) (https://postimg.cc/94c0Gc5n)
One thing I'm not sure of is, in the past with other Android head units I've owned I'd have my MP3's on a TF card (micro SD cards) that I would of slotted in to the head unit, this HU as many others don't have slots for TF cards/Micro SD cards, how dose one go about storing these MP3's on to the SSD of the head unit?
This is the nav pod...
@MollydogI perfectly understand that's it's personal choice, but I cannot think for the life of me why these days anyone does anything other than stream media/music (as opposed to MP3/CD etc).
I'm no spring chicken, but the days of owned media are clearly numbered.
Why not future-proof your setup by allowing for that?
Not having a dig, just genuinely wondering.
The Nav Pod is unobtanium now and if one comes up for sale it is priced so high its not worth it but its worth it.
When I had the PFC I installed a 7" monitor and after that I made it a cellphone magnetic mount then magnetic QI charing mount and now its going to be converted into magsafe charger system. I use it for ODB2 wireless info skin that gives me more information.
Regarding your set up many are doing the Chinese android builds because they are cheap and have many interesting features like digital fiber optic out that can be plugged into a DSP amplifier. I can tell you that the double din will not fit into the navpod.
I have a double din JVC head unit. It plays high resolution Flac and WAV files. I needed it because it has both 3 way active and since most of my collection is 24bit I needed something that can play those files.
The problem is the screen is in the wrong location and very difficult to see and navigate. They do have many of the more expensive head units that offer wireless mirroring for both Apple and Android but that is no good in my case because it's only on the screen of the unit. What I am hoping for is a head unit that has a detachable face that I can install in the Navpod or a way to reverse mirror though the phone and I can use my phone that is in the Navpod to control the head unit. I can kind of do that with the JVC app but its very limited and too basic.
What worked for me in the end is having a wireless Bluetooth steering wheel remote. Im kind of happy I had this problem otherwise I wouldn't have tried it. I now have full control of changing tracks, albums, volume and a button to reduce the volume in case I came to a light. I would look into these steering wheel remotes but I must warn you that you will need to spend time programing it to work and the wiring installation.
There ARE some companies that make a fibreglass copy of the navpod but they're fairly thin, empty shell and debatable whether they're worth the asking price.
Quote from: Alex Knight on December 21, 2021, 10:48@Mollydog
I perfectly understand that's it's personal choice, but I cannot think for the life of me why these days anyone does anything other than stream media/music (as opposed to MP3/CD etc).
I'm no spring chicken, but the days of owned media are clearly numbered.
Why not future-proof your setup by allowing for that?
Not having a dig, just genuinely wondering.
You are absolutely right that everything is going to be a subscription including 24bit high resolution audio. 5G is here and the bandwidth is there for it.
I have a large collection of FLAC, WAV and a good amount of it is high resolution audio. I like having ownership of the music so I never need to have a music subscription draining my wallet. I kind of hate the fact that I have other monthly substitutions that I have to pay for. Owning it outright is a good feeling.
I've just come off the phone to Turismo, had a great chat (with what sounded like the owned).
Went in to a little detail how they put together their Navpod, it's a direct mould from a Toyota pod and he try's to have the grain finish on the pod, if it comes out of the mould OK if not then its a smooth finish, I have no issues with either of the finishes
He has three on the go right now and was telling me, his main line is the body kits for the MR2, and only makes these one or two at a time when they have a bit of time on their hands as they are so fiddly and any errors on the pod normally means scrap
The slightly bad news is it's now £100, not £80 still OK with this, the other bad news that might be an issue is it's as wide as the dash lid which I measured at outside to outside to be 210mm, (that bit is fine) but the as the pod had a return at the sides that takes up around 10mm either side I am left with approx 190mm, OK for a standard 2DIN head unit but the one I had set on getting is 200mm wide, I might have to rethink which head unit to get
He said when he gets a moment he'll email me some images with dimensions, so looking forward to getting that email
The other option is to place the 200mm head unit in the same location i.e. in the footwell and use an Android tablet in the Nav-pod for sat-nav and as Dev mentioned use SWC switches to control the head unit
I've seen these on Alliexpress
(https://i.postimg.cc/zfnw2N03/Screenshot-2021-12-22-at-1-42-14-pm.png) (https://postimg.cc/qtvCgPfd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/DyZgvtyY/Screenshot-2021-12-22-at-1-44-03-pm.png) (https://postimg.cc/K46LQpTn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/g2LHR8hV/Screenshot-2021-12-22-at-1-47-29-pm.png) (https://postimg.cc/9DV9H4J0)
Nothing is ever straightforward :)
Nothing is ever straightforward. You need to get dirty with researching to get these things to work which I admire with how you are planing this out.
Some of these cheaper Chinese Android units are easier to translate for the blue tooth fictionality of external switches and others like my JVC need a SWC translator with dip switches. Its not too bad as long as you follow directions with the wiring and programing. What I did was bench test my unit and programed it before installation which made everything easy. All you need is a 12V 5amp transformer.
The way the little glove box slopes is going to make it hard to put in double din and the mouth opening may seem like its going to fit but only if you cut the inner plastic. Im afraid that its not going to be easy but then again I am guessing at it and it might actually work but keep in mind that even if you get it to fit you need to bolt down the head unit otherwise it will fly out during an accident and could cause injury.
This is the steering wheel remote that I purchased. I was so satisfied with with it I bought a spare just incase the one I have goes bad.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5YQZ7N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good to hear that the guy is going to make more Navpods. If anyone is reading this make a group buy happen that way they get it done. It is one of those items that I guarantee will never be made again as these fabricators lose interest and the molds are lost. You can make a beautiful cell phone display that uses magnetic charing like I did that is better than any factory GPS.
My next system is going to be a head unit free. In its place will be an amp that also has the head unit processors combined including DSP using LDAC from the phone to stream music directly to it. They do have a few systems like this but they are very expensive. It's only a matter of time the price will come down.
As it's my thread I don't think I can go off topic, can I? :)
I think all of you don't know I originally joined this and other MR2 Roadster/Spyder forums in late 2006, when we bought our MR2 Red, we were the second owners, it's my wife's car really and she was/is the main driver
She wasn't/isn't in to car mods so never really did much to the MR2, two things I did was buy Devs' key hole covers and the 3rd brake light cover, and that was about it
In 2010 I bought myself a car I had been longing for since the day I first set eyes on, the Elise S1, from 2010 till 2018 every summer I would drive the car down to Italy for our summer holidays, my wife and daughter would fly over and stay for a couple of weeks where I would stay for a good 6 to 8 weeks and drive back on my own, LOVELY. I'd hire a car for the time they were staying so we could all travel together
As I was using that car for my holiday travels it was the car I did most mods on, I only used it during the summer months June till I returned late August - early September then off the road till the following year
Fan override switch
https://youtu.be/etjOtUtUc9w
Fitted electric mirrors (something we take for granted on the MR2)
https://youtu.be/_a3wW660oaQ
Fob to open the boot
https://youtu.be/fqgB02HILgw
Flashing 3rd brake light (with one minute interval between next flashing sequence)
https://youtu.be/nQi4eFGI7lI
Single mist sprayer screen jet
https://youtu.be/lCKllIlVUmI
Low coolant alarm
https://youtu.be/vYFIjBr13c4
I lost count of the many different DVR's I have attached to the Elise both front and rear facing at one time or another
Connecting one of the DVR's to the TV to see the polarising filter attached to the DVR at work (look at the TV shown on the TV go black as the polariser gets to work)
https://youtu.be/WjJ3R7SOBAA
The Elise has only a 1DIN for the radio so I fitted one of those 7" retractable screens head unit but customised both the start up splash screen and the splash screen for the sat nav (and reversing camera) the ON / OFF was/is on the steering column
https://youtu.be/LtRYmEHMRFs
France
https://youtu.be/qszEn8X-WW0
Soon after getting off the Euro-tunnel
https://youtu.be/X02fdsNA2OE
I'd be taking very few dual carriageways 99% A and B roads through small villages in France and Switzerland, complete opposite in Italy only motorways
https://youtu.be/7ah2oDZzps0
The highs, two girls in the green Peugeot (France)
https://youtu.be/E21UlloJGsU
The Lows 92 Euros fine (France)
https://youtu.be/1e-PDsR-n84
Switzerland till the action camera pops off the mount
https://youtu.be/JjQHXcutveM
Pontarlier, France near the Swiss border
https://youtu.be/H02hpVsqzzo
Italy in to Switzerland
https://youtu.be/5zlVCV90fiE
https://youtu.be/bm8fxUOwHzY
Switzerland in to Aosta, speeded up as it takes around an hour
https://youtu.be/SbGDlZQ3X-A
I used to take the Elise to vintage rallies, only allowed as one of my relatives is a long time member
https://youtu.be/Huswt6rEeDk
https://youtu.be/JtU_dU97Y-c
Even let me partake in their obstacle sprint
https://youtu.be/L1usVos-Nkc
I have been pondering the idea it's time I took the MR2 to Italy at least once so planning to have my music and san nav ready if I do use the MR2, shame mine didn't have A/C
I'll post the driving cl,ips on to the "Great Drives & Adventures" sub forum as well for those that don't venture here in electrics
Just a quick post for now till I get back home, he sent me 5 images of the nav-pod that I'll post up when back home, one will be ready for this weekend so I said. . . . .
(https://i.postimg.cc/DZxpcNQW/SHUT-UP-AND-TAKE-MY-MONEY.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DJbcvBMF)
Here are the images he sent me, I brightened up a few as they were a bit dark
(https://i.postimg.cc/4dNRZqXP/na1.png) (https://postimg.cc/f3FrfHtS)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vmvwJbwD/na2.png) (https://postimg.cc/WDtyrR3P)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rmnXpjmk/na3.png) (https://postimg.cc/YGWyn1Yn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZnWkvNBy/na5.png) (https://postimg.cc/jnY3GLhs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YS7wDjVJ/na6.png) (https://postimg.cc/RWg8NCvR)
He told me the max internal size is 200mm x 95mm, I'm hoping he measured it with a builders tape and went to as near as dam it, as even my Samsung tablet is 185mm x 110mm, I'll just have to buy a smaller head unit
I have the OEM navpod and very interested to see what you do here as I've not managed to fit a screen in there yet.
I've seen reviews of fibreglass copies which don't look too hot, hopefully the quality has improved.
https://youtu.be/72tvAd3JPrQ
I had an email yesterday from Turismo with some images of the navipod that should arrive today or maybe tomorrow,
(https://i.postimg.cc/zfhgxKZM/20220126-174319-resized.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/f3wyL3bj)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tJBZszW1/20220126-174322-resized.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fS0TFmHZ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/W3PJCzs4/20220126-174329-resized.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jWZ5JswV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/brySY5Dc/20220126-174359-resized.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bD5w3393)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zBSRrNfF/20220126-174403-resized.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bDrvxKkZ)
I can't wait to try it in the car, then once I discover the max size of the aperture of the navipod I can make a start looking for a 2DIN head unit, as I discovered, not all double din head units are 180 x 100mm
Once it's in my hands I'll post up some images
The pod was delivered late last night (around 7.30pm, by Hermes), the vent holes in the back had the dimples but weren't drilled out so I spent around 15 minutes drilling them out
(https://i.postimg.cc/28VVhNzH/IMG-0288.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Then with a black felt tipped pen I went over the holes
(https://i.postimg.cc/N0wM3yRV/IMG-0290.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
On the whole I'm happy with the pod obviously it's never going to be as good looking as the original but good enough not to look anything but OEM, I placed it in the car this morning (it was just too dark to try it when it arrived).
Here are some images I took this morning
(https://i.postimg.cc/yNXdsVPN/IMG-0301.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/j2CdHyrW/IMG-0302.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0QVyKchR/IMG-0304.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9Mmffv8Y/IMG-0305.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wMPx036w/IMG-0306.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yYg8WhPt/IMG-0307.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/sf02VHp5/IMG-0309.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zGTDFJ4k/IMG-0310.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Two negative points, maybe a small third too, none serious but niggly:
First, Al at Turismo mentioned that with double sided tape will hold it firmly in place, but surprised to find that the lugs weren't in place, to help the rear flap add tension/pressure to the back of the navpod that with the lugs would form a tight fit
(https://i.postimg.cc/tgyqrKjG/lugs1.png) (https://postimages.org/)
Not keen on having a weighty head unit held down with only double sided tape, I'll have to find a way to remedy this
The other is, the flap at the rear
(https://i.postimg.cc/7YFYzCt6/spring1.png) (https://postimages.org/)
As is, without the two lugs, all it dose is hold the rear away from the back, as fibre-glass isn't as flexible as thin plastic, the flap has no give to it and without the two lugs to hold down the pod, the flap is superfluous
The third is, the navpod is con-caved at the rear by around 4mm and looking from above the gap is very noticeable, on the lid the car came with if anything the lid is slightly convex, I don't know if there is a way to reshape this part, but not a big issue I can live with it
Measured the aperture and at the base of the aperture the opening is 200mm, at the top it's approximately 180mm / 185mm as the corner has a radius it's a bit hard to get a true measurement, but that said I will still have to get my dermel out as I will have tomato some cuttings in the the inside box to be sure the head unit fits as the internal sides are tapered inwards, nothing is ever easy :)
After what felt like months of googling (saying it's a minefield out there is putting it mildly) I've placed an order for this Erisin ES8149U model
(https://i.postimg.cc/zBwK12wK/Screenshot-2022-02-04-at-4-05-48-am.png) (https://postimages.org/)
Seems to have more features than I was looking for and at a good price, should arrive here within 1 to 3 days, so all being well by Tuesday the latest
I bought it from Erisin UK website £150 plus £6 for P&P and insured, was cheaper than getting off eBay and better than waiting for weeks getting one off Aliexpress
The head unit had to be no larger than 180mm x 100mm (2DIN) as the fibreglass navpod has no flexibility, the navpod aperture is 200mm wide at the base but just about 180mm wide at the top, one advantage with this head unit is its only 45mm deep, I will still have to use my dremel to get the head unit fitted in
(https://i.postimg.cc/QCX5NgSP/Screenshot_2022-02-04_at_4.06.14_am.png) (https://postimg.cc/CBQdmq3H)
If I wasn't planing on using the head unit also for navigation, there are quite a few 200mm wide units that would fit in the original radio location
The long winded spec if anyone is interested (off Erisin website):
Key Features:
- Android 10.0 OS, Octa Core, 4GB RAM and 64GB ROM, 2 Card/4 USB up to 6*128GB extended Storage.
- Built-in DSP Amplifier System, which bring the perfect sound effect in your car.
- Built-in Apple CarPlay and Android Auto module. you don't need to use another adapter, just connect your
smartphone to this unit with USB to use CarPlay or Android Auto function.
- Built-in Bluetooth module, which supports hands-free function with A2DP Audio Streaming.
- Built-in GPS Module, which supports offline GPS Navigation, GPS function ready to use.
- Built-in WiFi Module for Internet, you can Link mobile hotspot to use Google online Navigation.
- Built-in Android Multimedia Player, can play Music/Video/Photo from local Disc or USB/TF.
- Built-in USB, TF, Radio, RDS, WiFi, Clock, Calculator, Calendar.
- Support DAB+, DVB-T/T2, TPMS, OBD2, DVR, Camera, AVIN, 3G, 4G etc. extended functions.
- Support steering wheel control, easier and safer to adjust volume, answer calls and switch the songs while driving.
- Support panel light colors adjustment, many RGB-colors can be chosen.
- Support Split Screen, you can run two apps side by side.
ES8149U 7" Octa-Core Android 10.0 Car Multimedia CarPlay & Auto GPS TPMS/DVR/DTV/DAB-IN...
General
- Power Supply: DC 12V (allowance range: 10.8-14.5V)
- Max. Current: 10A
- Screen Size: 7 inch
- Install Size: 2Din Size, 180mm*100mm*45mm
- Package Size: 220mm*160mm*140mm
- Shipping Weight: 2.0kg
System
- Operation System: Google Android 10.0
- CPU: Rockchips PX5 1512MHz Cortex A53
- RAM: 4GB
- Internal Memory: 64GB
- Extended Card/USB: Support USB/SD up to 128GB
Display
- Screen Type: Multi-touch screen
- Multi-windows view: Yes, support Split Screen, you can run two apps side by side
- Resolution: 1024*600
- Capacitive or Resistance Screen: Capacitive
- Built-in Clock and Calendar: Yes, show real time and can use network-provided time
- Main Menu Status Bar display: Can be changed to Music/Radio/BT-Stereo Player and Clock/Date/Week
- Change Wallpapers: built-in 1 live wallpapers, 25 standard wallpapers, support User's wallpaper
- Change Apps-Icon Position: Yes
Internet
- WiFi Internet: Built-in WiFi Module, support 802.11b/g/n, support WiFi Hotspot
- 3G/4G Internet: USB 3G/4G Dongle not included, just contact us to buy it together
- Explorer: Opera, UCWeb, SkyFile, Dolphin and more explorer for your selection
- Online Entertainment: Online Video, TV, Movie, Music, Radio, Video Chat
- Online Navigation: Online Google Maps Navigating
- Online Games: Yes, online play or you can download it from google play store
- Online Communication: keep connected through WhatsApp, WeChat, Twitter, Facebook, Gtalk, Gmail...
- Read and edit Office Software: Yes, support Word, Excel, Powerpoint, PDF, TXT
Audio
- Format: MP3, WMA, MP2, OGG, AAC, MA4, FLAC, APE, WAV etc. Could play via song list
- Record: MP3, WMA
- Other: LRC synchronized display; ID3 search; Search by files; Album Picture; User-defined audio effect
- Audio IC: TDA7851, Top Global Cirrus IC, independent audio decoding
- SNR: Noise rations:=90dB
Video
- Format: Support AVI (H.264, DIVX, XVID), rm, rmvb, MKV (H.264, DIVX, XVID). WMA, MOV, MP4 (H.264, MPEG,
DIVX, XVID). DAT (VCD format). VOB (DVD format). PMP, MPEG, MPG. FLV (H.263, H.264). ASF, TS, TP, 3GP,
MPG ect. =30 formats, Playing internet video directly (while downloading)
- Play: Up to 1920*1080 Pixels, 30Mb. Fluent play without light spot
- Video Output: Common Video Output (AV)
GPS
- Operation System: Android 10.0
- Support Maps: IGO, Sygic, Waze maps for Android 10.0
- Support offline navigation: Yes, ready to use.
- Dual Zone: Yes, navigating while music playing
- Online Navi: Yes, support online navigating such as google maps
Bluetooth
- Hands Free: Yes
- A2DP (Bluetooth Stereo Music): Yes, can play stereo music through Bluetooth
- PB-Download: Yes, can download phonebook from mobile to this unit
- PB-Search: Yes, can use the first letter to search contact member in PB-Listings
- Calling Records: Yes, Dialed Call, Received Call, Missed Call
- Built-in Microphone: Yes, on the front panel
- External Microphone Jack: Yes, on the back, external Mic. incl.
Radio
- Main Chips: TEF6686
- AM Frequency Range: 522-1620KHz
- AM Increment: 9KHz(EU)/10KHz(US)
- FM Tuning Range: 87.5-108MHz
- FM Increment: 0.05MHz(EU)/0.1MHz(US)
- FM Area: Europe/USA1/USA2/Japan/Russia
- RDS: On/Off
- Preset Stations: 30(FM 3*6, AM 2*6)
USB
- Position: 1 USB On the front panel, 3 USB On the Back
- Function: Can be connected with U-Disc, 3G/4G Dongle, CarPlay Dongle, TPMS-Device, DVR-Camera, DAB+ Box, Smartphone etc.
- Capacity: 128GB
- Play MP5 Videos: Yes, can play RMVB Videos up to 1080P
TF
- Position: On the front panel
- Function: Can be used as Multimedia card or GPS card slot.
- Capacity: 128GB
- Play MP5 Videos: Yes, can play RMVB Videos up to 1080P
Android Auto
- Built-in Android Auto: Yes, just connect your smartphone to this unit with USB to use this function
- Connection Port: USB
- Support Device: Android Smartphone with Android 5.0 and above
- Support Wireless connecting: No
- Control the connected Android Phone on head unit: Yes
CarPlay
- Built-in CarPlay: Yes, just connect your smartphone to this unit with USB to use this function
- Connection Port: USB
- Support Device: iPhone iOS 7.1 and above
- Unit's Screen Control Phone: No, but you can download CarPlay supported function APK to use and control
Car DVR
- Built-in Car Recorder App: Yes, just connect a USB Camera to use this function
- Support HD CCD Camera: Yes
- Play recorded Video directly: Yes
- Storing Position: Card/USB Storage can be changed
TPMS-IN
- Built-in TPMS App: Yes, just connect a TPMS Module to use this function
- Connection Port: USB
- Power Supply to TPMS Module directly: Yes
- Touch Control: Yes
DAB(+)-IN
- Built-in DAB Player App: Yes, just connect a DAB+ Box to use this function
- Connection Port: USB
- Power Supply to DAB+ Box directly: Yes
- Touch unit's screen to control the connected DAB+ Box: Yes
DTV-IN
- Built-in DAB Player App: Yes
- Connection Port: Special
- Power Supply to connected DTV Box directly: Yes, you can connect our DTV Box to achieve this function
- Touch unit's screen to control the connected DTV Box: Yes, you can connect our DTV Box to achieve this function
Additional
- Textbook: Could change font, font color, background color, bookmark, reading E-book while listening music
- Photo Viewer: Support JPS, BMP, PNG, GIF etc. format. play by revolve, Powerpoint Support 4096*4096 Pixels
- APK Installer: Support Android Package installer
- Support Torque Pro(OBD2 &Car): Yes, you can connect a Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner Tool to use this function
- Support steering wheel control, easier and safer to adjust volume, answer calls and switch the songs while driving.
- Support panel light colors adjustment, many RGB-colors can be chosen
- Built-in DSP Amplifier System, which bring the perfect sound effect in your car.
- Support Android Multimedia Player, can play Music/Video/Photo from local Disc or USB/TF
Input
- AUX Video In: One
- Rear-View Camera Video In: One
- External Microphone In: One
- AUX Audio In: R/L
- TPMS Box In: One
- DTV Box In: One
- DAB+ Box In: One
- Car DVR In: One
Output
- Video Out: Two
- Audio Out: FR/FL/RR/RL
- Surround Stereo Out: 4*45w
- Subwoofer Out: One
Accessories
- 1*User's Manual in English
- 1*Power Cable with ISO Connector
- 1*RCA AV Cable
- 1*SWC and other Control Cable
- 1*External microphone Cable
- 1*USB OTG Cable
- 1*GPS Antenna
- 1*WiFi Antenna
- 1*Install Frame and Fittings
I can't believe it, I placed the order yesterday morning around 6am and it arrived this monrning around 10.30am , all for around £6 P&P
I've a bench top 12v DC battery and setting it up before I fit it into the navpod, I can see I'll be making cuts in to the pod to get the unit in
(https://i.postimg.cc/sDhvntNT/IMG-0312.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/6pxTFMst/IMG-0314.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YCNj7Qkg/IMG-0315.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jjZ5wKDS/IMG-0317.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/R0MhZqVY/IMG-0318.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
One thing I've discovered straight away, one corner of the unit after only half an hour gets a bit too hot to touch, maybe there isn't sufficient heat sinks for the PX5 with an 8 core
This is the location where it gets a bit too hot
(https://i.postimg.cc/FFqL41TZ/IMG-0320.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WtG3mpLF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vHV6HMjd/IMG-0321.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CzwKcySv)
I've placed an order for 2 small 40mm x 40mm computer fans
(https://i.postimg.cc/hvHzb3Xw/PC-fans.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/m1ygTjNN)
now I'm looking for a heatsink to place at this corner and one of the fans attached to this heatsink while the other fan attached at the (inside) holes on the navpod
(https://i.postimg.cc/28VVhNzH/IMG-0288.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Am I right in thinking that the fans should be pulling the air away from the unit and also pulling the air out of the pod and not the other way round?
https://youtu.be/-UseqzJGfNs
For today I'm working out how to replace the Android boot animation for one of my own, then come tomorrow I'll be starting on cutting up the navpod
That is a very slim double din. If only the column of buttons were in the other side so as to be closer and more within reach from the driver seat.
Waiting for the wiring write up. I'd like to see how much work is needed to get it up and running with the stock in-car audio stuff.
As for ventilation I imagine this is not dissimilar to PC building where depending on number of fans, their position and direction you can end up with a positive pressure system, negative pressure system or neutral. Each has pros and cons, mostly dust build up related, but heat dissipation shouldnt be drastically different.
one in and one out to circulate the air?
I made a start on cutting out the aperture in the Navpod last week, I took my time and did small cuts at a time, I still have more to cut out as it's very dusty cutting the fibreglass it's something to be doing outside and the weather hasn't been too cooperative in this respect so still have a bit more to do
(https://i.postimg.cc/KYSRTwwM/IMG-0350.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LXm5CfH4/IMG-0351.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/26T6P66Q/IMG-0355.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MMMqBz1H)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MKHMJy1v/IMG-0356.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/DyNWv8c5/IMG-0359.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vZ64cbqy/IMG-0363.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dQ4kfWkb/IMG-0364.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I plan (if possible) to have the face off the head unit vertical in the navpod and not follow the slope, so used an angle finder to see the angle of the cut I need to get the face as upright as poss, looks like around 20 degrees should do it
(https://i.postimg.cc/8c55DSJq/IMG-0366.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9R6VtsBp)
For my Elise I now use the Viofo A129 Due DVR,I was thinking g of buying one for the MR2, but as the new head unit I'm going to fit in the Navpod is compatible with a USB DVR I was on the lookout for a good one, but like most things, it's a minefield out their, Chinese sellers do their best to answer questions but I've found their understanding in English is limited
So in the end just went with what Erisin suggested, they said this model is a 1080 HD, there are more than just image size to good image capture, using the movie inspector I see the bitrate is just an acceptable 6.15 Mbit/s,
(https://i.postimg.cc/Qdpj2tYF/Screenshot-2022-02-20-at-8-11-11-am.png) (https://postimg.cc/gx29RYWp)
https://youtu.be/3F1dMmkLmJM
10 Mbit/s (or higher) would of been more acceptable but then for £17 +P&P I can't complain, I'm sure in a year or two they'll have high quality USB head unit compatible DVR's at a good price
Just for comparison, my first DVR in 2010 cost me £30 and produced AVI files of 420 and I was pleased with the results (at the time), here's a screen capture of the quality of the movie clips
(https://i.postimg.cc/3N7zgSP9/Screen-Shot-2015-07-06-at-4-43-54-pm.png) (https://postimages.org/)
Not a sharp spot across the whole image, even the roadsigns are difficult to make out
Anyway the DVR arrived Friday
(https://i.postimg.cc/nL4MGTfw/IMG-0384.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I can't say it was well packet but it arrived in safe
(https://i.postimg.cc/x84d14Lq/IMG-0385.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tCsTM9H6/IMG-0386.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
As with most Chinese items, the instruction. Manual is next to useless
https://youtu.be/paLMOdLmJFY
(https://i.postimg.cc/KcqjfRCF/IMG-0391.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3xpw39NJ/IMG-0393.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wTnvKn6G/IMG-0397.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XvbYqFBK/IMG-0400.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Got round to chipping away at the Nav pod this afternoon, if anyone is looking for a plug & play 2 DIN head unit housing this one isn't for you
I knew the size before I bought it so no complaints from me, but it is taking me a bit longer than I was hoping,
a few images showing my progress this afternoon, with all my cutting and grinding I'm still around millimetre too short hight wise, I don't want to cutting right to the edge of the housing so will have to be doing minor sanding down in certain places, one good thing is that the full screen can be seen from both driver and passenger side.
any coments good or bad most welcome
(https://i.postimg.cc/nhd4XzSM/IMG-0403.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3NHpsDNf/IMG-0405.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/SNh75HzQ/IMG-0408.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VNpXFh88/IMG-0411.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BvXxH0Rp/IMG-0416.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I'm going to see if I can still have the unit facing vertical in the housing
(https://i.postimg.cc/76z0tNHT/IMG-0418.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rwyGyWJv/IMG-0419.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gkHqP4vV/IMG-0422.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/brHbpN2y/IMG-0423.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
the housing will need cleaning up and re painted :)
In the end I had to cut out most if not all of the nav-pod insert as it was just too small to get the head unit in
(https://i.postimg.cc/3w3Wj7jk/IMG-0499-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The insert is tapered so the bottom front is/was just over 200mm and the top front 175mm at the back it was even smaller, I didn't measure it but at a guessing it maybe have been 150mm x 80mm or there about
As I cut out the insert base and most of the sides I needed to make something to fix the head unit to, I popped over to a local perspex supplier local to me, I asked if they had any small bits of off cuts I could buy, they pointed me to their skip and said I could take all I wanted (for free)
I took a few bits I though might come in useful
(https://i.postimg.cc/65RdYWZc/IMG-0443.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I ended up deciding to make use of these bits here in the red circle
(https://i.postimg.cc/RZBwYkQB/IMG-0445.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
While I was waiting for the JB-WELD to arrive I was testing the perspex slithers using my hot glue gun after gluing the slithered to the nav-pod I left it over night, to my amazement the hold was very strong that when the JB-WELD did arrive I didn't use it and stuck with the hot glue
I use my Dremel to cut two slits on each perspex for the bolts holding the head unit, I had a couple of tries at this, I finally settled on cutting the slits before the perspex was glued to the nav-pod for a better finish, I have a very understanding wife, I fixed my Dremel in our utility room to do the cutting, not a murmur from her
(https://i.postimg.cc/V6C6m6mH/IMG-0486.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wy9Hk9th)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1X1ztQzR/IMG-0487.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BLN3YRDR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jj95pN07/IMG-0488.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YCWQDpm8/IMG-0463.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/sXyPZtxm/IMG-0464.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/m2hYM3Lv/IMG-0466.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Fsqjxf17/IMG-0467.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yxp0txPp/IMG-0468.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2ytBTJkP/IMG-0475.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
My Tesa 19mm 25m roll arrived the other day so wrapped the extended power leads
(https://i.postimg.cc/k5CRjWCX/IMG-0489-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I discovered that I can thread my power leads, reversing camera & reversing buzzer leads and DVR leads all from under the cubby, as there is a indent on the underside that will allow me to thread the wires through once I've cut a hole centre of the cubby, I'm not sure how visible this is in the image but hope it's clear what I'm saying
The white wires are the extended power leads from the ISO connections centre consul below the heater switches
(https://i.postimg.cc/KcpLZKPJ/IMG-0478.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vBQ9mf2S/IMG-0480.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/28PZZPXW/IMG-0481.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
These are the wires in the loom from the ISO connections to the bottom of the cubby
(https://i.postimg.cc/B6Y8QyKX/IMG-0482.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Looking at the cubby the hole for the cables needs to be well back as the unit itself is a good 65mm deep,
(https://i.postimg.cc/pX9jy2kx/IMG-0483.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
So I've decided to cur the hole approximately where the tape is
(https://i.postimg.cc/8zMrBtq0/IMG-0485.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
In the meantime I've also fitted the extractor fans, on e where the unit gets very hot
(https://i.postimg.cc/k4X6C9D0/IMG-0491-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3xXdDWGM/IMG-0498-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
And two glued to the air vent on the nav-pod
(https://i.postimg.cc/NfryBdfj/IMG-0494-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I'll be making two connections to the head unit, one is for the fans, the other is for the SWC ~(steering wheel control) for this I'm using these Posi-Tap connectors these are a lot more expensive that the usual spade connectors but in my opinion these are far better in this build
For the SWC
(https://i.postimg.cc/8cxjL6wG/IMG-0492-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
For the fans
(https://i.postimg.cc/G3fBWWRf/IMG-0493-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Dev gave a link to a STL file of a Nav-Pod, at the moment I'm in two minds whether or not to go for the 3D version so for now I'll continue with this fibreglass one. If I do go for the 3D version it needs slight alterations to make a 2DIN head unit fit
Quote from: Mollydog on February 6, 2022, 16:06One thing I've discovered straight away, one corner of the unit after only half an hour gets a bit too hot to touch, maybe there isn't sufficient heat sinks for the PX5 with an 8 core
This is the location where it gets a bit too hot
(https://i.postimg.cc/FFqL41TZ/IMG-0320.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WtG3mpLF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vHV6HMjd/IMG-0321.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CzwKcySv)
I've placed an order for 2 small 40mm x 40mm computer fans
(https://i.postimg.cc/hvHzb3Xw/PC-fans.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/m1ygTjNN)
now I'm looking for a heatsink to place at this corner and one of the fans attached to this heatsink while the other fan attached at the (inside) holes on the navpod
(https://i.postimg.cc/28VVhNzH/IMG-0288.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Am I right in thinking that the fans should be pulling the air away from the unit and also pulling the air out of the pod and not the other way round?
https://youtu.be/-UseqzJGfNs
For today I'm working out how to replace the Android boot animation for one of my own, then come tomorrow I'll be starting on cutting up the navpod
Only need a fan at the vent to push air through the pod, but think about where the air can exhaust out also.
I'm glad I found this thread because I have exactly the same aim and have had one of these grp navpods for a few years waiting to do this (car been garaged for >3 yes).
Sent from my M2102J20SG using Tapatalk
Quote from: Mollydog on March 29, 2022, 18:08In the end I had to cut out most if not all of the nav-pod insert as it was just too small to get the head unit in
(https://i.postimg.cc/3w3Wj7jk/IMG-0499-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The insert is tapered so the bottom front is/was just over 200mm and the top front 175mm at the back it was even smaller, I didn't measure it but at a guessing it maybe have been 150mm x 80mm or there about
As I cut out the insert base and most of the sides I needed to make something to fix the head unit to, I popped over to a local perspex supplier local to me, I asked if they had any small bits of off cuts I could buy, they pointed me to their skip and said I could take all I wanted (for free)
I took a few bits I though might come in useful
(https://i.postimg.cc/65RdYWZc/IMG-0443.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I ended up deciding to make use of these bits here in the red circle
(https://i.postimg.cc/RZBwYkQB/IMG-0445.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
While I was waiting for the JB-WELD to arrive I was testing the perspex slithers using my hot glue gun after gluing the slithered to the nav-pod I left it over night, to my amazement the hold was very strong that when the JB-WELD did arrive I didn't use it and stuck with the hot glue
I use my Dremel to cut two slits on each perspex for the bolts holding the head unit, I had a couple of tries at this, I finally settled on cutting the slits before the perspex was glued to the nav-pod for a better finish, I have a very understanding wife, I fixed my Dremel in our utility room to do the cutting, not a murmur from her
(https://i.postimg.cc/V6C6m6mH/IMG-0486.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wy9Hk9th)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1X1ztQzR/IMG-0487.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BLN3YRDR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jj95pN07/IMG-0488.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YCWQDpm8/IMG-0463.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/sXyPZtxm/IMG-0464.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/m2hYM3Lv/IMG-0466.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Fsqjxf17/IMG-0467.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yxp0txPp/IMG-0468.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2ytBTJkP/IMG-0475.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
My Tesa 19mm 25m roll arrived the other day so wrapped the extended power leads
(https://i.postimg.cc/k5CRjWCX/IMG-0489-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I discovered that I can thread my power leads, reversing camera & reversing buzzer leads and DVR leads all from under the cubby, as there is a indent on the underside that will allow me to thread the wires through once I've cut a hole centre of the cubby, I'm not sure how visible this is in the image but hope it's clear what I'm saying
The white wires are the extended power leads from the ISO connections centre consul below the heater switches
(https://i.postimg.cc/KcpLZKPJ/IMG-0478.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vBQ9mf2S/IMG-0480.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/28PZZPXW/IMG-0481.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
These are the wires in the loom from the ISO connections to the bottom of the cubby
(https://i.postimg.cc/B6Y8QyKX/IMG-0482.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Looking at the cubby the hole for the cables needs to be well back as the unit itself is a good 65mm deep,
(https://i.postimg.cc/pX9jy2kx/IMG-0483.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
So I've decided to cur the hole approximately where the tape is
(https://i.postimg.cc/8zMrBtq0/IMG-0485.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
In the meantime I've also fitted the extractor fans, on e where the unit gets very hot
(https://i.postimg.cc/k4X6C9D0/IMG-0491-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3xXdDWGM/IMG-0498-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
And two glued to the air vent on the nav-pod
(https://i.postimg.cc/NfryBdfj/IMG-0494-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I'll be making two connections to the head unit, one is for the fans, the other is for the SWC ~(steering wheel control) for this I'm using these Posi-Tap connectors these are a lot more expensive that the usual spade connectors but in my opinion these are far better in this build
For the SWC
(https://i.postimg.cc/8cxjL6wG/IMG-0492-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
For the fans
(https://i.postimg.cc/G3fBWWRf/IMG-0493-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Dev gave a link to a STL file of a Nav-Pod, at the moment I'm in two minds whether or not to go for the 3D version so for now I'll continue with this fibreglass one. If I do go for the 3D version it needs slight alterations to make a 2DIN head unit fit
If you start modding and 3d printing these can we adapt it for a full size 2DIN? My idea was to raise the height of the pod to give room for the screen and like you did already, cut the screen surround forward it is a shallow recess and gives the most size. I'd also want the screen vertical to minimise glare and reflection etc
Great work so far and thanks is for sharing!
Sent from my M2102J20SG using Tapatalk
Looking great so far.
Here is a tip.
I found that the bezel on the navpod is creating a little glare because the plastic is a little reflective. I decided to cover the surround in light absorbing flocking material that has an adhesive back.
I think this would actually make the screen more visible without having the screen overly bright.
Wow my mind boggles, I thought I had done good changing the bulbs in my instrument panel !! :)
ps: If your wife should become available please give me a heads up !! :) :) (I have a very understanding wife).
@Mollydog do the fans pull air into the NavPod or push it out the vent holes? I'd be inclined to push it out as the air out there will be hit under the windscreen but from below the dash should be cooler. And make the cable hope large enough to allow airflow through also. Something that concerned me with the NavPod ventilation for a head unit.
Sent from my M2102J20SG using Tapatalk
Quote from: MrT on April 2, 2022, 18:45@Mollydog do the fans pull air into the NavPod or push it out the vent holes? I'd be inclined to push it out as the air out there will be hit under the windscreen but from below the dash should be cooler. And make the cable hope large enough to allow airflow through also. Something that concerned me with the NavPod ventilation for a head unit.
Sent from my M2102J20SG using Tapatalk
Hot transfers to cold.
Quote from: MrT on April 2, 2022, 18:45@Mollydog do the fans pull air into the NavPod or push it out the vent holes? I'd be inclined to push it out as the air out there will be hit under the windscreen but from below the dash should be cooler. And make the cable hope large enough to allow airflow through also. Something that concerned me with the NavPod ventilation for a head unit.
Sent from my M2102J20SG using Tapatalk
both pulling, on the head unit its set up to pull air from it to the vent and the two on the vent set to pull the air from the nav pod out through the vent
On the subject of cooling fans, the directions should be both. The fan on the heatsink should blow air ONTO it, and then another to blow the air out of the casing.
If you have a computer tower, that's how the fans work. One fan blowing air onto or across the CPU heatsink, and a case fan to extract the hot air.
EDIT: For your dash pod, you need a vent to allow fresh/cool air to get in too. But that doesn't necessarily need a fan.
Busy weekend this past weekend,
Made a start threading the wires through to the dash on to the Nav-pod, as mentioned before, nothing is easy on the MR2I ended up having to take out the passenger airbag to get to the bottom of the Nav-pod,
The air bag wasn't impeding me but taking it our made it easier to see where I was threading the wires through
As I needed to thread through a few wires, going to the nav-pod were: main head unit cables, aerial cable, USB cable, reversing cable
Coming from the nav-pod was the reversing alarm buzzer, I still haver to thread through the DVR cable but I'm leaving this till I get the roof latch bolts sorted this coming Wednesday, as the USB cable coming from the the DVR is one long one meaning I would have to be leaving the DVR sliding around
I've taken some images (I hope I get them in the right order) showing my progress
Through the glove box
(https://i.postimg.cc/v8Km8hnv/IMG-0780-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3JDxkGCQ/IMG-0781-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/sXXVsGD8/IMG-0782-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Cables coming through this side of the centre to the Nav-pod
(https://i.postimg.cc/zfpJsF5K/IMG-0783-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/htWPTGpz/IMG-0784-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I worked out I wanted the hole in the Nav-pod approx 95mm back from the front of the head unit
(https://i.postimg.cc/BnTZgGVh/IMG-0787-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I started off with a hole saw and ended up with a door drill
(https://i.postimg.cc/rpqVZP6q/IMG-0786-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zBcqBDyf/IMG-0788-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/x8Nnbrm3/IMG-0789-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PNGhW6zs/IMG-0790-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/65R4DgPZ/IMG-0793-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fRNSZ54r/IMG-0794-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z5xBq34K/IMG-0795-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/cJ1KtHL7/IMG-0796-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I popped an inspection camera down the hole, very tight whichever way I went with the cabling
(https://i.postimg.cc/G2HHz5YH/IMG-0797-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
To make my life easier I took out the air bag, not as hard as I first thought, out in around 10 minutes and most of that time I was looking for the second nut to the left as you look at the dash
(https://i.postimg.cc/nLdX4JXy/IMG-0798-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
For sure not much room to pass anything through the gaps
(https://i.postimg.cc/JnvtF5cK/IMG-0799-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/v8x4VCbK/IMG-0800-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jCKqVgW6)
First think I passed through was the buzzer cable from the nav-pod to the glovebox location, using a stiff wire to pull/push through the wire
(https://i.postimg.cc/7hzbrJK4/IMG-0802-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Following this I started off with the head un it c ables and attached other wiring that needed threading through at the same time, I didn't want to be threading each wire individually, I'd be there all week doing it
just the head unit wires
(https://i.postimg.cc/9F3rt1fQ/IMG-0803-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Adding g the aerial wire
(https://i.postimg.cc/W1Tzx3gR/IMG-0804-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Adding the revers camera wiring
(https://i.postimg.cc/kXxDj8VF/IMG-0805-2-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Finally the USB wiring
(https://i.postimg.cc/y8jxKHyD/IMG-0806-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Stiff wire threaded to the hole and now just seeing if all these wires will thread through to the hole
Miracles of miracles I managed to thread the wires through
(https://i.postimg.cc/HLPLJ9KH/IMG-0808-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TwL3nWMb/IMG-0809-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
As mentioned I still need to thread through the DVR cable which I'll attempt after visiting the garage on Wednesday
I'm not adverse to taking out car parts for wiring, I'v e done it many times on the Elise
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(https://i.postimg.cc/C5YzQvk8/rad2-SMALL.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/gjWfNcgx/P1180246-SMALL.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
But somehow it feels a lot harder on the MR2
I don't know why businesses say they are going to do a job and when you turn up they've even forget why you're there
I arrived at the garage a few minutes early and when I spoke to the same boss I talked got on Friday about the re taping they were going to do with my two bolts, he had forgotten who I was and then told me they are too busy to do the work, the best they could do is if I popped in on the 6th of July
I'm looking to see if I can get it done somewhere else
Quote from: Mollydog on May 25, 2022, 10:38I don't know why businesses say they are going to do a job and when you turn up they've even forget why you're there
I arrived at the garage a few minutes early and when I spoke to the same boss I talked got on Friday about the re taping they were going to do with my two bolts, he had forgotten who I was and then told me they are too busy to do the work, the best they could do is if I popped in on the 6th of July
I'm looking to see if I can get it done somewhere else
It is frustrating, I got messed about for almost 6 months with my suspension.
I took the MR2 to the garage this morning and picked her up this afternoon, job done
(https://i.postimg.cc/gcg77pMS/IMG-1093-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/J4tFVFv1/IMG-1090-2-HEIC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
If it's fine tomorrow I'll be making a start on fitting the head unit
After taking out the passenger air bag I was thinking if it's worth replacing it with the cubby hole?
I wen't on to one of the Japanese web sites and see they are around £65 £70 but it's the postage that's the killer, another 60 to 70 pounds then customs and VAT
Anyone that's imported things from Japan, do you know the rate of customs on an item with a total value of around £130 - £140?
In theory for that purchase price the seller should apply the VAT at time of purchase and then you pay customs duty at point of entry into the UK, which SHOULD be around 2.5% on the total you paid to the seller.
Failing that the UK courier will calculate the VAT on the purchase price, plus delivery then the customs charges ON THE TOTAL AMOUNT. They'll then probably add their admin fees and bill you before they'll deliver it.
I'll email "Amayama Trading Co. Ltd" who are selling the cubby box and ask if the price includes UK VAT
https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/mr-s/ZZW30/186556/body/5501/55446D
I've noticed I never posted the finished job so today I took some images and a video clip of the head unit fitted to the pod
Overall I'm happy the pod does what its supposed to do, hold the head unit above/on the dash firmly, quality and fitting is well, put mildly below par, I'm sure if I had the skills I maybe could of made a better job of a few things but overall the pod is something that is better than nothing and from a distant or outside the car it looks OEM
A lot of work needed doing to get a head unit to fit, I can't now remember where I got the link from but I managed to get hold of a STL file of a scanned nav pod but once I discovered we were talking of a few hundred pounds (3 to 4 hundred) to get one made I stopped that line of thought, reason being if mine is a carbon copy of the original then unless the original is modified a 2 DIN head unit will be hard to fit
Back to my pod, here are a few images
(https://i.postimg.cc/Bv3zrLzy/IMG-2547-heic.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
If I get the front part of the pod resting in place then the rear looks like this, yes a good 30 to 40mm gap
(https://i.postimg.cc/Qd1PYkf1/IMG-2550-heic.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
If I push it back to close the gap
(https://i.postimg.cc/nzRw9dLb/IMG-2555-heic.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Then the front lifts up around 5 to 8mm
(https://i.postimg.cc/XJ7zJM4k/IMG-2556-heic.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I suppose if I had another go with one I could manage to reduce this gap between the front of the head un it and the pod
(https://i.postimg.cc/8Pq9bnmT/IMG-2544-heic.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I don't have any regrets buying this nav pod as it does what I need it to do "keep the head unit on the dash" as such I can put up with the final Finnish of the product
Here's the video clip
https://youtu.be/kSefNl-6U7w