Hello, I've just bought a 2001 Mk3 and it has a noise from the engine bay which seems to be a squeaky clutch spring as it also makes a twang noise as well as a squeak. I'm guessing that the culprit is the return spring, does anyone know if this makes sense and are there any pictures or videos of it so that it'll all make sense when I can have a look.
In the previous 4 years it's only done about 3000 miles and less than 24000 miles since 2006, so I suspect that the issue could be down to lack of use.
Two separate things.
I will wager a virtual beverage of choice, the twang is likely when you 1st pull off. When you arrive/stop and turn the car off. If you sit in the car long enough, you will get the twang again. Something to do with the ABS system.
The squeaky clutch, despite sounding like it's in the cabin. Will be very very likely be the release fork. With a bit due care and diligence and you can lubricate that from outside.
Worth looking at replacing the slave if you're going to the effort of moving stuff around to grease the pivot fork.
Cheap enough part, pain in the arse to get to but after 20+ years, odds are the slave will have internal rust, and the clutch fluid may never have been changed.
I have the same squeaky clutch noise presumably from the clutch fork. I asked a mechanic to lubricate it but he refused, saying it was too risky squirting lubricant into a clutch. I could see his point.
I've come to the conclusion the best solution for my generally over pampered car is to get a new clutch fitted along with a lightweight flywheel. Still saving up for that one and looking for a garage I trust to do the job. Is it an engine out job?
If you take a look at a separated transmission from the block you will notice the ball stud where the clutch fork pivots on. That is the point where it creaks and it can be remedied by using a dab of moly grease on the end of a long screw driver where you will insert it into the bell housing following the clutch fork to give it a little grease. You will be going in blind but if you have a reference of where that pivot ball is you can certainly feel for it and lubricate it without any possibility of it contaminating the clutch or pressure plate.
Clutch swap breakdown is here before anyone tells me to do a search:
How to change the clutch (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=61540.0)
Quote from: Dev on July 3, 2022, 18:25If you take a look at a separated transmission from the block you will notice the ball stud where the clutch fork pivots on. That is the point where it creaks and it can be remedied by using a dab of moly grease on the end of a long screw driver where you will insert it into the bell housing following the clutch fork to give it a little grease. You will be going in blind but if you have a reference of where that pivot ball is you can certainly feel for it and lubricate it without any possibility of it contaminating the clutch or pressure plate.
I tried that and in the end, had to use a cotton bud/q-tip to work it in properly.
Echo the "don't fancy shooting spray grease up there" comments
Annoyingly when I got the clutch done on mine it seems they didn't put much grease on the fork so it came back within months. Hence tackling the squeak and the slave myself.
Mum's car didn't have the same issue post clutch change so assume they greased the pivot fork/ball area.
Couple of posts with semi-relevant pics and vids https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=64494.0
Quote from: Bossworld on July 3, 2022, 19:59I tried that and in the end, had to use a cotton bud/q-tip to work it in properly.
Echo the "don't fancy shooting spray grease up there" comments
Annoyingly when I got the clutch done on mine it seems they didn't put much grease on the fork so it came back within months. Hence tackling the squeak and the slave myself.
Mum's car didn't have the same issue post clutch change so assume they greased the pivot fork/ball area.
Couple of posts with semi-relevant pics and vids https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=64494.0
One of the many reasons why they squeak or some that have worn premature clutches especially those that use stronger pressure plates is not using the right grease. I found this out from a motorcycle mechanic and it is suggested that clutch splines and other contact points should be lubricated with moly paste with a high concentration of moly because it has a property of leaving behind a film of dry lubrication that is embedded into the metal once the carrier lubricants dry out. I used Honda Moly paste which they say has a good reputation from enthusiasts of all brands of vehicles.
I then come to find out that Toyota has a part number for specific grease they sell in a very small tube just for this application (clutch splines) and I have a suspicion its also high quality moly paste.
The problem often is, this knowledge is lost with enthusiasts that do their own work or mechanics that are in a rush.
Why do I have the strange feeling we had this exact conversation before.
I found the part.
https://parts.philgilberttoyota.com.au/clutch-spline-grease-part-no-to0888701706/#additional-info
This is why factory Toyotas are very reliable because they use high quality accompanied lubricants that have been formulated and tested to work without issues. When we substitute those parts because we think we know better, stuff like this generally happens.
well found.
That's got to be the random post of the day.
Never come across that before.
Thanks for the advice from everyone, I think that this will be one of the jobs that will be on the 'to do list' a long time :)
Once I get it on axle stands I'm sure that I'm going to see a whole can of worms and it'll probably not come off for weeks :(
I would have replied earlier but this topic wasn't on my watch list even though I set up my notifications to auto follow all of the topics I create and reply to.
I just click the un-read posts button.
Quote from: Ardent on July 3, 2022, 23:12I just click the un-read posts button.
That's what I'd decided to do from now on, as I'm new here there are a couple to have a look at ;D
I hope that's a 1 pint cuppa in your avatar. Lots to read.
Quote from: Dev on July 3, 2022, 20:46Why do I have the strange feeling we had this exact conversation before.
There's only a finite number of MR2 topics and as a now ex-owner who pops in occasionally, I tend to stick my head in on the threads where I've got experience to contribute. Seems to usually coincide with your posts ;D
To your point about the grease, Dick Sloan has previously suggested the same Honda moly paste that you've referenced.
I've no quarrel with your advice (which is the correct fix), it was just that I had to really work it into the pivot ball area, which I found myself unable to do with the long screwdriver, even with the slave shifted out of the way and the boot removed.
Quote from: MikeBoo on July 3, 2022, 23:01...
I would have replied earlier but this topic wasn't on my watch list even though I set up my notifications to auto follow all of the topics I create and reply to.
Sorted as I have found the setting to email me about updated to topics that I have created or replied to.
It seems that now as the car has been used more, the noise in the engine bay generated by using the clutch has now almost gone, replaced by a squeaky clutch pedal box noise.
Note to self: Grease the clutch pedal assembly.
Quote from: Ardent on July 2, 2022, 21:50Two separate things.
I will wager a virtual beverage of choice, the twang is likely when you 1st pull off. When you arrive/stop and turn the car off. If you sit in the car long enough, you will get the twang again. Something to do with the ABS system.
The squeaky clutch, despite sounding like it's in the cabin. Will be very very likely be the release fork. With a bit due care and diligence and you can lubricate that from outside.
I thought that I'd wait before responding to this because at the time I was very sure the noise was related to a spring stretching type noise as the clutch pedal was pressed/released and not ABS related and I was correct, it only happened when the pedal was pressed and now this noise along with squeak from the engine bay ahs gone away as mentioned in post #17.
Thanks, virtual cup of tea claimed, made & consumed ;D
You should still get a springy twangy twang. Which is related to the abs.
If not, then it's about to spontaneously explode. ;)
Listen carefully, happens under 5mph, when pulling off for the first time after starting. Could be masked by other sounds. But should be there. Just the once on pulling off.
Squeaks and twangs after, is something else.
Quote from: Ardent on July 9, 2022, 15:28You should still get a springy twangy twang. Which is related to the abs.
If not, then it's about to spontaneously explode. ;)
Listen carefully, happens under 5mph, when pulling off for the first time after starting. Could be masked by other sounds. But should be there.
I'll have a listen, I have been more pre-occupied sat in the passenger seat whilst my daughter has been getting to grips with learning to drive :)
Quote from: Ardent on July 9, 2022, 15:28You should still get a springy twangy twang. Which is related to the abs.
If not, then it's about to spontaneously explode. ;)
Listen carefully, happens under 5mph, when pulling off for the first time after starting. Could be masked by other sounds. But should be there. Just the once on pulling off.
Squeaks and twangs after, is something else.
It's certainly there.