Being a long time Toyota fan/owner I've always been tempted by a MK3 roadster. And now with the prices as they are and having started a new youtube channel with a friend it seemed like the perfect time to bag a roadster and dial everything up to 11 without it looking modified. We're going for "how would a 2ZZ MR2 Roadster have looked like from the Toyota factory"
Jobs completed as of 1st Jan 2023 -
- Replaced Leaking Cam Cover Gasket
- Service - Genuine Toyota Air Filter and Oil Filter. Fuchs Titan XTR Fully Synth Oil.
- 4x new Yokohama Advan AD08RS tyres in staggered factory 185-55R15/215-45R16 sizes
- Sony Apple CarPlay Stereo, DoubleDin Facia, wiring harness and rev camera (plus switch to control aerial)
- Replaced broken rear wheel stud
- New (fake) TRD Gearknob
- New Expansion tank cap (Was loosing coolant with the old cap)
- New Denso PreCat and PostCat Lambda Sensors
- Rust from frunk all removed, treated and Painted/Primered
Jobs to do -
- Welding on front turrets - booked for this week
- Correct surface rust on the remaining areas of the car and repaint.
- Treat the entire car to cavity wax and undersealer
- Refit all frunk plastics and relocate alarm to outside of frunk to maximise luggage space.
- MTEC Dimpled Grooved Brake Discs
- EBC YellowStuff Front/Rear Pads + new shims and calliper seals
- Braided Brake Hoses, Braided Clutch Hose and DOT 5.1 change
- Malian 2.5" Race Exhaust + Sports Cat
- Cusco Breastplate
- Cusco Front/Rear Braces
- Whiteline ARB's & new droplinks
- Change EPSF Power Steering Fluid
- KYB Shocks/Springs/Top Mounts/DustBoots
- Mevotech Front Lower Arms/Balljoints
- Replace all bushes on rear arms
Future Plans -
- Dyno whilst running factory 1ZZ-FE
- Track Day and set a lap time
- Swap in 2ZZ-GE (Already started to collect parts needed for swap)
- All new gaskets/fluids/belts/mounts/waterpump/uprated oilpump/sparks/coils etc
- Re-Dyno and re-track to see how much power we gained and see how much quicker it is around the same track.
We're already deep into the restoration of this car and if anyone would like to follow our build/progress you can find us on YouTube!
Sounds like a great list!
Just one question, why underseal rather than paint underneath?
Quote from: Topdownman on January 2, 2023, 10:02Sounds like a great list!
Just one question, why underseal rather than paint underneath?
Yes I will be re-painting underneath before undersealing. Sorry I didn't make that clear (modified original post). Always best to put the underseal over paint rather than bare metal if you want it to last.
Great list looking forward to the updates.
:) that what we like to see some building work going on there.
nice that you have it at in the open on the tube.
hope you enjoy the journey that will never finish :)) :)) :))
Quote from: puma2 on January 2, 2023, 10:30:) that what we like to see some building work going on there.
nice that you have it at in the open on the tube.
hope you enjoy the journey that will never finish :)) :)) :))
Cheers :)
I have to finish it this year I'm afraid as I already have my eye on my next project after this :) lol
Famous last words...
Quote from: LeEdFollow on January 2, 2023, 09:40- running factory 1ZZ-FE
- Track Day and set a lap time
- Swap in 2ZZ-GE
- re-track to see how much power we gained and see how much quicker it is around the same track
Thát will be 8) to see.
1zz v 2zz laps times wouldn't be as dramatic as you would think for the average track dayer. I'd say <5s at longer tracks like Donington GP and Oulton Park. This gap would come down further at shorter more technical tracks like Three Sisters and Blyton Park.
Just look at the lap times the top 5 1ZZ race series lads are putting in, only a couple of seconds in it versus what I can push out in my 2zz, albeit they are seasoned racing drivers and dont have to drive their cars home, but still its very impressive given the 40-50hp disadvantage, plus they can only run 195F/205R R888's vs what I run of 205F/225R A052's.
Welcome.
Great that you're getting stuck in so quick.
Another read would be to look at
@tommyzoom99 readers ride as he has both a highly tuned 1ZZ and 2ZZ car. I'm sure he said the 1ZZ was quicker!
I did a lot of back to back testing of flat vs grooved vs drilled discs years ago on Evo's, Supra's, Celica GT4's etc and now pretty much swear by grooved discs.
Yes they eat pads faster and generate more heat but you can easily replace pads when at the track (i've toasted a set of pads by the end of a track day morning and fitted new pads for the afternoon before now) and if you can manage the temperatures then I find they have much more bite and a lot less judder.
I know EBC aren't ideal pads for track, but I heard good things about the bluestuff (only ever tried green/red/yellow before and with the exception of yellow they sucked) so I thought i'd start at the bottom, give them a go and work my way up through the pads.
MR2 pads do seem to be surprisingly expensive to me. My DS3000's on my GT86 are massively cheaper than most hardcore MR2 pads lol I guess you dont really see many roadsters out on track days as its not the obvious choice, so they aren't big money spinners for pad manufacturers which pushes up the price of those few hardcore brands.
I seem to remember the Spirit MR-S video showing that they didn't bother with anything other than stock discs but got nice pads.. these cars are so light they don't really eat pads/ discs the way the bigger heavier powerful cars do.
I've always used MTEC dimpled/grooved discs and never had an issue and they last at least 2 years/10-15 track days.
They are cheaper than the likes of Pagid plain discs which I'll only use for plain discs having had bad experiences with budget brands.
I'm now using PBS pro race pads all round and at £250 a full set seem decent value.
I'll be putting them to the test on the 4th of February at Donington GP, then Oulton 11th February.
Quote from: Anon on January 4, 2023, 15:59once you get into the type of pads with a compound that survive nuclear fallout or space shuttle re-entry temperatures the grooves are just a reduction in disc surface area thus pad contact patch, and also become the focus/concentration point to start the crack.
If surface divits were for show only then all serious racing big brake kits would not come drilled or grooved or dimpled.
You just need to look at any of the Porsche GT3, Aston Martin GT3 or Ferrari GT3 cars. All have dimpled/grooved etc discs. All Brembo and AP Racing Competition kits are either dimpled/grooved/j-hooked or slotted in some way.
Going back about 8 years ago I was doing lots of disc testing with Carbotech and Performance Friction pads on my Monaro VXR. And even then you could feel the difference between flat surface discs and grooved/slotted/drilled etc. Not massively different on the road (except for noise) but night and day on track. If you dont mind replacing pads more often, the slotted rotors just stopped you noticeably faster and that's probably a combination of biting the pad surface and taking away the gasses created between the pad and disc.
I agree about cracking, but thats only ever happened to me once on drilled discs and for that reason i'd avoid them. But dimpled/slotted i've never had an issue with.
But I'm no expert nor a professional driver. Just a track day nut with heavy feet and probably not enough fear lol
Understand what you're saying but even in a full year of track days and touristenfahrten I don't spend £500 on brake pads so happy to let the slotted discs eat them up in exchange for better stopping power.
Quote from: LeEdFollow on January 4, 2023, 22:51Understand what you're saying but even in a full year of track days and touristenfahrten I don't spend £500 on brake pads so happy to let the slotted discs eat them up in exchange for better stopping power.
That's mental. I couldn't agree less with this philosophy. You must have money to burn.
QuoteCons:
There are not many cons to having a blank rotor. Some drivers have a misconception that they should choose slotted or drilled rotors over blank rotors for superior performance.
https://www.r1concepts.com/blog/how-to-choose-the-right-brake-rotor-pattern-blank-vs-drilled-and-slotted-vs-drilled-only-vs-slotted-only/
Quote from: Alex Knight on January 4, 2023, 23:47That's mental. I couldn't agree less with this philosophy. You must have money to burn.
https://www.r1concepts.com/blog/how-to-choose-the-right-brake-rotor-pattern-blank-vs-drilled-and-slotted-vs-drilled-only-vs-slotted-only/
How so? Did you think I was saying I spend £500 a year on pads? Not at all. It was a response to Anon saying a set of carbotech are £500. I dont use carbotech and certainly would never spent so much on brake pads.
I go through on average 1.5-2 sets of quality pads per year across 10-20 track sessions. We're probably talking £200 of pads in exchange for excellent stopping power. I wouldn't say thats "money to burn" when the track days themselves are usually around £200. Seems quite reasonable to me. You spend more than that on fuel just driving to the Nurburgring and back.
Also lets be fair the quote you shared from that link was out of context as you only shared part of that paragraph. The same article goes on to tell you why you would buy slotted/grooved over blank. Here is that full quote -
"There are not many cons to having a blank rotor. Some drivers have a misconception that they should choose slotted or drilled rotors over blank rotors for superior performance. This is not necessarily true, so do not feel the need to select a particular type of brake rotor over the misunderstanding that it is better than another style of brake rotor.
It all depends on how you drive your vehicle and how you would like it to stop"
& again same page telling you the benefits of grooved/slotted discs -
"
This style of brake rotor delivers improved consistency with every stop, by reducing the friction in the brake pads. Over the long run the slotted rotors also perform well: As the slots shave down glaze from overheated brake pads, they expose fresh material every time you brake.
As a result, you can rely on these pads to deliver effective braking even in heavy duty vehicles."
Everyone is welcome to their own opinions of course and no single setup is going to be the best for everyone. But I've done my own hours testing/researching on track and for me I'll always use slotted discs on my track cars as I want maximum stopping power, which I feel I can only get from slotted rotors. Others may choose to use flat/solid discs out on track and that's their choice. But there is science for and against all options :)
I did like the scraping effect that the grooved had.
I didn't mind because I ran MTEC's finest at 168gbp for a full set of pads and discs.
When I switched to EBC Yellowstuff, it made a hell of a mess! More than other people were saying their yellows would. So I can only assume it was because of the grooved discs.
On one of our other mr2s we put yellows on plain discs. Barely any dust.
Very unscientific and small sample set but it did clearly show a difference between grooved and plain on the same pads and car. I changed pads a lot when I used the MTEC set. Probably once a year. That's a lot to me.
I didn't mind the yellowstuff. They were great on the road. Never tracked them.
I never had a grooved disc crack, fail, chip. I never had a dimpled fail. Never had a grooved AND dimpled fail.
I never used it on track but to be fair... The way I drove a few years ago I didn't need to. No call for that shit... :) Good thing I grew up.
Thanks for the feedback. Sounds like the yellowstuff I bought for the rear of my car wont last long at all.
I'm taking it to Brand Hatch next month (first track day of the year and first one out in the Roadster) so I am now fully expecting the yellow stuff to need replacing after that :) lol
btw Lee, you máy be a bit on the optimistic side with 950 kg. for your FL. It is most likely around 1050 depending on how much fuel you have sloshing about.
A simple and clear answer is put it on scales.
The 2ZZ being heavier will ´compensate´ for lightness added. As to lap times, the gear box is thé crux: The 2ZZ power curve is basically the same as the 1ZZ witch a chunk added, the engine does not realy come into its own on the for it rather long legged 1ZZ gearing.
The restriction in the OEM exhaust is not the bends actually; it is a deliberate constriction in the entry of the flexi 2 - 1 of the mid pipe.
Also you want to think about the intake side. For the 1ZZ, the OEM is best; just replace the elbow/horn at the filter box entry.
For the rest HAVE FUN!!!!
Quote from: shnazzle on January 5, 2023, 08:46I never used it on track but to be fair... The way I drove a few years ago I didn't need to. No call for that shit... :) Good thing I grew up.
HAH... growing up ... no fun in that :o
Stopped after 23 years of racing when the wife died in an accident. Stopped enduro riding when the gf got pregnant. Then started rallying with the kid as co-pilot. Now waintimg for the third titanium bearing replacement and only going sideways on the local industrial estate. Well, mainly O:-)
I am not a religeous man but I do remember something at Sunday school about children inheriting The Kingdom of God :))
Just don´t molest others and dont get caught ;)
Quote from: LeEdFollow on January 5, 2023, 08:51Thanks for the feedback. Sounds like the yellowstuff I bought for the rear of my car wont last long at all.
I'm taking it to Brand Hatch next month (first track day of the year and first one out in the Roadster) so I am now fully expecting the yellow stuff to need replacing after that :) lol
Yellows lasted ages on the rear of mine coupled to MTEC grooved/dimpled discs. Easily 5 days and 500+ road miles and that was running slicks on track. I then changed to Stopetch sport rears and they lasted even longer and had better coefficient, plus they were cheaper.
Everyone's braking style is different hence all the mixed reviews, for me less braking means faster laps hence the pad longevity, others will hang onto the brakes longer creating more heat, thus more wear. There's no right or wrong way to brake, whatever suits your own style.
Quote from: JB21 on January 5, 2023, 09:36Yellows lasted ages on the rear of mine coupled to MTEC grooved/dimpled discs. Easily 5 days and 500+ road miles and that was running slicks on track.
Ah ok that sounds promising :) Will see how they hold up and fingers cross they do the business.
Same here on braking style, once I learn a track layout I look to be on the brakes a little as possible but when I am on the brakes at the end of straights I'm on them late and hard lol
Will certainly take me some time to get that confidence in the Roadster. 99% of all my car history is FR, only MR cars I've owned before the Roadster was a Lotus Esprit HC Turbo and an AW11 which both tried to kill me on many occasions lol My brain isn't wired correctly when it comes to anticipating the weight transfer of a car with the engine behind me lol
Quote from: Petrus on January 5, 2023, 09:08btw Lee, you máy be a bit on the optimistic side with 950 kg. for your FL. It is most likely around 1050 depending on how much fuel you have sloshing about.
Totally :) I was going on the Kerb/dry weight which I believe is somewhere around 950kgs for a non-leather/non-AC car. But I cant see anything on the net/car/documentation that confirms this. I'm taking the car for a Dyno later this month so will ask the guys there if they have some scales we can put the car on :)
Quote from: LeEdFollow on January 5, 2023, 09:47Will certainly take me some time to get that confidence in the Roadster. 99% of all my car history is FR, only MR cars I've owned before the Roadster was a Lotus Esprit HC Turbo and an AW11 which both tried to kill me on many occasions lol
You will find the ZZW30 quite friendly. Not at all that snappy, responding to light corrections and to some extend willing to correct itself even; all if you resist the reflex of lifting the loud pedal.
Once I put it on proper rubber (AD08R) I found it surprisingly gentle.
As to the weight you´ll see. The under 1000 kgs is a combo of dry weight marketing the (JDM) PFL. My PFL (SMT/AC) has 1060 kgs on the registration papers.
Quote from: Petrus on January 5, 2023, 10:13As to the weight you´ll see. The under 1000 kgs is a combo of dry weight marketing the (JDM) PFL. My PFL (SMT/AC) has 1060 kgs on the registration papers.
Ok cool. Good to know. I've been hunting around the web trying to get the values for all the fluids on the car. Does the below look about right to you?
Full tank of Fuel = 35.5kgs
Engine & Gearbox Oil = 5kgs
Coolant = 9kgs
Brake & Clutch & EPSF Fluid = 2kgs
Washer fluid = 3kgs
Total fluids for the car = 54.5kgs
If your car has AC, SMT and I see also leather seats (at the start of your 'Southern Belle' thread) and weighed in at 1060 then probably 950kgs dry would perhaps be about right for my 6spd/non-ac/non-leather car.
I'll try to get the tank filled to the top and put the car on some scales ASAP :)
Ive got my FL down to 938kg with half a tank of fuel.
Hardtop gutted
Full front interior still is situ
Rear interior gutted
Passengers airbag removed
Passenger seat removed
300mm OMP steering wheel
6 point T45 cage
OMP fiber glass bucket seat (9kg)
Golf kart battery (6kg)
Fully aftermarket braced
Coilovers
Frunk fully gutted
Lightweight silencer (<5kg)
200cel sport cat
1zz/2zz hybrid header
0Z 15" wheels (6.5kg each)
This weight has gone up recently though as I've added a proper battery (11kg) and added a passenger seat (15kg) for track days rides, so car now weighs 958kg.
Although the fluids are about correct, it is academic. Only a lowish fuel level is a low as thát gets in the real world ;)
My observation was to point out that real world weight of your car is not 950 ks.
Weighing will give you a real number and a solid base to measure your gains from.
Here is a ´nice´example of weight bs:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_t0PsTumWc
Look at the claim at 20 seconds.
The car as going round on the track is likely over JBs 985.
@JB21 gives a great example. He added a lót of lightness. Look at p.e. seats, battery, exhaust adding up hefty kgs.
Btw JB did you delete the softtop? 20 kg ´margin´ there.....
Quote from: Petrus on January 5, 2023, 11:47Although the fluids are about correct, it is academic. Only a lowish fuel level is a low as thát gets in the real world ;)
My observation was to point out that real world weight of your car is not 950 ks.
Weighing will give you a real number and a solid base to measure your gains from.
@JB21 gives a great example. He added a lót of lightness. Look at p.e. seats, battery, exhaust adding up hefty kgs.
Btw JB did you delete the softtop?
Sorry yeah soft top also deleted.
Awesome. Cheers guys. Yes will definitely get it on some scales to find the true weight of the car. Turns out the place I am taking the car to for Dyno also has weighing scales.
So in theory if my car ends up weighing around 1000kgs dead (with a full tank), then by my calculations on the fluids being roughly 50kgs that would suggest a dry/kerb weight of 950kgs which is what I read it was online. Just really curious on the validity of the dry/kerb weight value more than anything :)
Quote from: LeEdFollow on January 5, 2023, 12:04a dry/kerb weight of 950kgs which is what I read it was online.
For the PFL ;)
Quite a bonus the shop has scales!!
Oh and about your battery. Moving it up front means adding héavy cable.
Whether you want the weight from the rear to the front is questionable. The track experts are better versed in answering that.
Quote from: Petrus on January 5, 2023, 12:51Oh and about your battery. Moving it up front means adding héavy cable.
Whether you want the weight from the rear to the front is questionable. The track experts are better versed in answering that.
That's a very good point :)
Quote from: Anon on January 5, 2023, 14:53I've moved mine to the front, as I found with the front trunk gutted out on both cars they were a bit prone to locking up front inside wheel and occasional unexpected surprise understeer on turn in especially on Knickerbrook where there is no braking to load up the front for the turn in (note: this was pre semi slicks and camber). Thus instead on the track car I moved the battery to the front as low and central as possible, and I run a full sized normal lead acid battery. I think the front plastic undertray is important too as I went out without it and the car felt far less confidence inspiring at higher speeds, almost floaty.
Interesting on the undertray as mine doesn't have one as it got ripped off in the big Three sisters crash I had, and I know what you mean at high speeds. Need to DIY myself a front chassis mounted splitter really.
Quote from: Anon on January 5, 2023, 14:53I think the front plastic undertray is important too as I went out without it and the car felt far less confidence inspiring at higher speeds, almost floaty.
The front under plastic is important for limiting lift. Venting the bonnet helps too. A bit of rake ditto.
@JB21 extending the custom bottom shield will reduce lift more but it needs to be compensated in the bonnet because the air through the rad needs to go sómewhere.
Quote from: Petrus on January 5, 2023, 15:46The front under plastic is important for limiting lift. Venting the bonnet helps too. A bit of rake ditto.
@JB21 extending the custom bottom shield will reduce lift more but it needs to be compensated in the bonnet because the air through the rad needs to go sómewhere.
Indeed, vents need to go just past where the radiator stops and ideally a tilt on the rad too to help the airflow upwards, like in some lotus cars. I know what's needs doing, just getting the time to do it.
Quote from: JB21 on January 5, 2023, 15:48ideally a tilt on the rad too to help the airflow upwards,
´
Nah, air will flow from higher to lower pressure anyway and the cooling of the ZZW30 is quite generous. For aero, the lift, redirecting ány flow from under to above counts twice.
Imo it is the 8) st period, to not give a hoot and do your own thing for yourself.
But we are drifting WAY off topic ;)
Good morning Lee.
Hope you are not losing momentum.
Please do keep cracking on and let us anoraks not hold you up ;)
Looking forward to hearing all of the freed up OEM ponies.
Thanks Petrus.
Still moving along here. Car is in the bodyshop as of yesterday being all welded up, but I hope to get it back today or early next week. I can then get the final painting/undersealing done at the front and start to fit all the new suspension/sway bars/brakes/braces etc
It's been nice to have a day away from the car to be honest :) Gave me some time to get on the Playstation and get some SnowRunner done lol
Thanks for the update.
Not used to rusting ZZW30s here ;)
Last time I played a videogame was in the seventies; the ´Moonlander´ test program.
Maintaining contact with the charming companies per whatsapp is a virtual as my life gets O:-)
Was réally pleased you going for the AD08RS btw. Those are predictable and that will be só much simpler when setting up the car to your taste.
Anyway; enjoy!
Yeah I'm a big fan of the AD08R's. I used to run them on the Monaro VXR and the GT86 (On super lightweight 17x7 Advan Model 7 Alloys) but after fitting my big brake kit to the 86 I had to move from 17's up to 18's to clear the callipers (Moved to Rays 57xtreme in 18x8.5) and couldn't find stock of AD08R tyres in the size I needed anywhere since they had been discontinued, could only buy the newer AD08RS tyres at that point in time which I had heard mixed reviews about. So I took this opportunity to switch over to Goodyear Eagle F1 Asym 5's because I had heard really good things about them and in all honesty I haven't really noticed any less grip out on track (but to be fair I went from 215 to 235 width tyres which may account for this). Wet control is massively improved though.
If I'm honest I would have liked to have had some Eagle F1 Aym5/6's or Pilot Sport 4/5's on the MR2 but they just don't seem to make decent UHP tyres in the MR2's stock 15/16 tyre sizes. So was quite delighted to find you could get hold of AD08RS in stock MR2 size - plus they were really reasonably priced!
Not my first choice, but AD08R vs AD08RS compound differences aside I'm sure they will perform really well on such a small/light car. Expecting that I should be able to really abuse them once they are warm lol :)
Here the corner weight result of a PFL with full fuel load.
It is by Node on Spyderchat and his car has has a lot, lót, LOT of lightness added to it incl. carbon bonnet, soft top deleted and carbon hard top with plexi window fitted.
(https://www.spyderchat.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.spyderchat.com/attachments/screenshot-2023-01-12-21-43-46-png.94455/)
So I've finished the rust removal/painting/undersealing to half way down the car :)
Just now need to tackle the rust in the rear of the sils (which will require some welding) and then the rust in the engine bay either side of the exhaust.
Fitted all my Cusco braces (Front Strut, Rear Strut and Centre Breatplate) and that's add 3kgs to the car. But I'll get that back plus more by removing the stock intake pipework and the stock exhaust system (plus heat shield)
Quote from: LeEdFollow on January 23, 2023, 09:46So I've finished the rust removal/painting/undersealing to half way down the car :)
Just now need to tackle the rust in the rear of the sils (which will require some welding) and then the rust in the engine bay either side of the exhaust.
Fitted all my Cusco braces (Front Strut, Rear Strut and Centre Breatplate) and that's add 3kgs to the car. But I'll get that back plus more by removing the stock intake pipework and the stock exhaust system (plus heat shield)
Oh, that must mean there's another nice video to go have a look at. Really enjoying the series!
Quote from: LeEdFollow on January 23, 2023, 09:46So I've finished the rust removal/painting/undersealing to half way down the car :)
Just now need to tackle the rust in the rear of the sils (which will require some welding) and then the rust in the engine bay either side of the exhaust.
Fitted all my Cusco braces (Front Strut, Rear Strut and Centre Breatplate) and that's add 3kgs to the car. But I'll get that back plus more by removing the stock intake pipework and the stock exhaust system (plus heat shield)
Thumbs up for the derusting and conservation!
So... you managed to make the car héavier sofar ;) Just teasing ;D
Again. Do look around at this forum about the intake. OEM is pretty good.
Cheers. Will be ditching the intake tube in the passenger rear wing when I have that off the car to do the new exhaust/rear rust.
Will need to go for a different intake though once the 2ZZ is in to the make sure it doesn't run too rich/lean. From reading up on it the standard 1ZZ airbox can't flow enough for the 2ZZ's high rpm breathing.
Quote from: LeEdFollow on January 24, 2023, 19:03Cheers. Will be ditching the intake tube in the passenger rear wing when I have that off the car to do the new exhaust/rear rust.
Will need to go for a different intake though once the 2ZZ is to the make sure it doesn't run too rich/lean. From reading up on it the standard 1ZZ airbox can't flow enough for the 2ZZ's high rpm breathing.
De-restricting the elbow on the filter housing is a good idea. Be aware though that deleting the duct in the mudguard means the entry will be behind the rear lamp unit and that is a lót dirtier are than behind the battery where the duct takes it from.
The 2ZZ ok, but the 1ZZ is best with the OEM box.
For those of us who don't do YouTube (haven't time these days), do you have any photos to share on this thread?
Very intrigued by your concept. It's much the same concept I embraced for mine except I limited myself to what Toyota did make available for the platform. My what if was "what would a Toyota factory turbo roadster have looked like?"
After completing the eurospec Dodo I had plans to go full JDM and 2zz on a second roadster but being out of work a little last year put paid to that.
I'll settle with living vicariously through your build.
Quote from: SuperArt on February 3, 2023, 18:56My what if was "what would a Toyota factory turbo roadster have looked like?"
Is that question not aswered by the TTE Turbo? That is after all the Germany based TRD fully supported and warranted by Toyota Corp.
@Petrus Exactly, but they didn't do it. There was never an official special edition. My dodo is what I imagine one would've looked like.
Edit: I don't mean official kit, I mean official turbo roadster edition like sw20 MR2 turbo. Anyway let's stop derailing this thread.
Quote from: SuperArt on February 3, 2023, 19:13@Petrus Exactly, but they didn't do it. There was never an official special edition.
Maybe your definition of official differs then.
@Ardent has an impressive and nigh exhaustive library of official Toyota publications on the TTE Turbo.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wHsi8jByg60/UlbPlr1_A9I/AAAAAAAAJt8/HTeycGCUPMI/s1600/0262_32_toyota_mr2_mk3_w30.jpg)