What are people using now since the latest Toyota part is the small M rather than J1 part. Still Toyota or another brand
Respectable name at the cheapest price from ebay. The 2zz engine filter fits & is a slightly bigger capacity.
I've used mahle filters. No issues.
Opie oils.
Used Greddy filters for years with no issue, before that it was Toyota only.
Is it bad that I can remember a time when Toyota filters were made in Japan lol
I always go for Mann filters.
Bosch on both mine.
Recall someone did a fairly comprehensive test of many filters. Cutting them open etc.
The takeaway. All much of a muchness.
...another vote for Mr Bosch
Quote from: Ardent on February 11, 2023, 18:19Recall someone did a fairly comprehensive test of many filters. Cutting them open etc.
The takeaway. All much of a muchness.
Our cousins on Spyderchat were the recipients of this thread:
https://www.spyderchat.com/threads/oil-filter-exposed.27947/
Well found.
I only trust Denso oil filers. This is a crucial part that can take out an engine and although it rarely happens there are other things like trading filtration for flow so a correct balance is important that has been worked out by the engineers from durability testing. Some of the aftermarket oil filters have their bypass valves set as a compromise to fit many other applications so I want the one that came with the engine if I can still get it.
I finished watching a video where various RTV sealants were tested. Toyota FIPG was in the top three but most would not know that and they think they can substitute with something else they can pick up in a store and not know its inferior.
Toyota and Honda service parts are some of the best quality where there is no equivalent and that is what holds up their reputation. I like to error my ignorance on buying Toyota/Denso even if it costs more as we have already seen issues with fuel filters of different manufactures.
Quote from: Ardent on February 11, 2023, 18:19Recall someone did a fairly comprehensive test of many filters. Cutting them open etc.
The takeaway. All much of a muchness.
Hence I am happy for the local garage to earn a €uro of the EuroParts/FIAMM (or what) folter when they change the Castrol full synthetic at less per l. than it costs me.
A long time ago I thought about running a larger filter in a different application and a lubricant representative educated me on why that is a bad idea to use a filter that is not designed for the engine and why it is important to have the right bypass valve setting that you only get with OEM filters. The aftermarket makes compromises to this setting to fit more applications and what can happen is long term damage due to improper flow timings to reach wearable parts or the chance that the filter is prematurely by passed and not efficient. Your car will still last but can develop more wear over the lifetime compared to OEM which is a fools errand to think everything that has an application is just as good.
I seen this yesterday. Take note on the importance of the bypass. This is why I only stick to the manufactures filter which only has a specific setting for the design of the engines lubrication system.
For those that by Toyota oem my piont was that you can't buy the one originally designed for the engine. The Toyota recommended replace.e t is smaller.
I take the simplistic view that regular (3-4k) changes outweigh any possible advantages of a specific brand.
Here is a new video I seen the other day. I have always stressed that engine oil flow is more important than filtration especially when it comes to performance driving and over all wear. A lot of aftermarket filters advertise better filtration efficiency at the expense of flow and it may seem like more filtration is better for the motor as it will reduce wear but it can do just the opposite depending on the use case and engine design.
The reason why I value flow over filtration is a study I have seen where increased efficiency over the bare minimum of a filter was negligible or made no difference when it comes to engine wear however flow does. There have been countless number of used oil analysis that show no benefit with aftermarket filters compared to OEM. I also value Toyota engineers and Denso quality control as they seem to know what works for their engines and that is why they design their filters to favor flow because the difference is so obvious that either they were intentionally making a flawed product or there is a good reason and that reason is flow. There have also been countless number of Toyotas with high miles that have used nothing but OEM Toyota filters without any issue.
Flow is very important for performance driving and if you look at filters that are used in racing applications they alway favor flow over filtration. I would also argue that at idle where flow is at its bare minimum because of pump and engine design you want more flow.
Here is the video. I thought it was done well but the guy missed the mark on his conclusions because he believes in filtration.
The second car I bought in the early 60's was a '56 (oval window) VW Beetle.
When it wouldn't start the mileometer was going around for a second time. The cam shaft used neither chain nor belt but a gear wheel that was riveted to the end of the cam shaft. Prior to that oil consumption was not a problem.
The oil filtration was through a fine wire mesh, negligible resistance to oil flow, together with a magnetic sump plug.
My first Company car was a '73 Maxi from new. That engine started using around a litre of oil in the 120 mile journey to my office. It ceased to function at just over 50k. That engine had a paper element type filter, so a measurable resistance to flow.
The only two cars out of the several I've had / use of over the years that had terminal engine failure.
Maybe those examples point towards some confirmation that engine oil flow rate could be a significant factor in engine longevity.
As always is depends, is more to it. Engine design has changed, even the materials used and so have tolerances. Ditto the usage and expectation of both longivity and maintenance.
The filtering conundrum applies to air filters too.
With oil filters we only have to look at the additives which keep particles in suspension and for air a look at the current road network.
Oils without additives had the particles sink to the bottom of the sump whereas nów it must be filtered.
Older vehicles lacked ´proper´ air filters into the modern era even whereas use on dirt roads was common.
So???
It is obvious that less particles in air and lubricant reduces wear but imo the current custom is a bit ocd for most use/circumstances and I have little doubt that the less wear argument is a neat one to sell more air/oil filters. Perhaps even more than needed.
In this perspective; my 1939 Nimbus, 1974 Fantic and 1983 Vespa have the exact same air filter system: A metal gauze one can easily see through and which is supposed to be only very lightly coated with engine oil. The latter two being two strokes makes it even more amazing: The air is mixed with the engine lubrication!
Yet the Nimbus motorcycles travelled deserts no problem and the Fantic was an off road bike!!
Back to the original post it imo all goes sideways because oil changes are extended too far. Enter additives enter filtering need enter clogged filter resistance and all.
The mentioned Nimbus is an exceptional example because even today the machines are still being used for long distance travel. As such there is un-equalled experience with engine oils and non-filtering. The verdict is to use old type oil which does not keep the particels in suspension and change often. Air filtering is seen as a non-issue.
Not so fast gentlemen. Although there is a balance between flow and filtration it's not as easy as just changing out the oil early. If you do frequent oil changes as I have discussed in the past you will create more engine wear. This is depending on the oil formulation and other factors. There is an optimal time for everything. There is an optimal filtration efficiency based on clearances and other things that are too hard to know without actually picking the head of the engine designer.
I do know that Toyota is famous for their rigorous failure testing and this is why the B58 is BMWs most reliable engine. I do not try to upset the balance by adopting aftermarket parts that make claims of better filtration. What they don't tell you is they compromise the flow for filtration and they do not do any kind of failure testing of their product on the actual engine. The oil filter is a very important crucial part for the engine and although most filters do not result in a catastrophic failure there has been cases where it has although rare. However long term wear and other things go unnoticed because they are generally insidious that you cannot pin point the actual cause of shortened life.