Quote from: Gaz2405 on September 26, 2019, 07:56I went for the 2zz compressor clutch from the corolla.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F302260983274

Be good to have another turbo build going.

Thanks I will put that on the list and looking at a few options, I don't want something that makes it a chore to drive on road so an oe solution like that is good shout if it can handle the boost/usage, I think exedy also do a stage1 organic upgrade over that as well but will do more research.

Im keen to get started on build but need to go and remove/pickup kit first before im sure exactly what im getting, its supposed to be complete kit with everything I need from a running car to directly swap over but ive heard that before! im sure there will be a few bits to tweak to my needs and will be getting a build thread up once I have the kit

Its your build that has swayed me over going 2zz which was original plan, im concerned about getting good used engine and then oil starvation issue/engine failures etc, making use of my 1zz first seems best plan

I've been to see @wotugonado this afternoon to pick up some spare wheels, they'll be going on this Weekend as its getting a bit wet for the nankangs at the minute.

Also picked up a rear poly bushed whiteline arb whilst I was there too.

Took the old arb off tonight in the garage, the old drop links have seen better days so ordered a new set ready for fitting in the next couple of days.

Also ordered a 2.5" straight decat pipe (for a focus St) with a two bolt flange, I'll be chopping this up to make into my own system from the  malian down pipe and sports cat.

Nice to see the bits being reused, and quickly, no messing around...

Dont go too stiff on the rear ARB unless you want to be backwards into a ditch lol.... i found with my whiteline rear bar it was a bit too responsive for me even on softest setting, dont get me wrong car felt amazingly responsive and super darty but so much so the rear could easily break away on turn in if not being very smooth, ok on track with hot sticky tyres but i found it a bit much for road and the sprints events i do so went back to stock rear bar, kept whitleline on the front though and now balance and traction is far better.

Quote from: thetyrant on October  1, 2019, 15:10Dont go too stiff on the rear ARB unless you want to be backwards into a ditch lol.... i found with my whiteline rear bar it was a bit too responsive for me even on softest setting, dont get me wrong car felt amazingly responsive and super darty but so much so the rear could easily break away on turn in if not being very smooth, ok on track with hot sticky tyres but i found it a bit much for road and the sprints events i do so went back to stock rear bar, kept whitleline on the front though and now balance and traction is far better.

Thanks for the heads up, I'll bear it in mind.

Will most likely go softest setting anyway.

New tie rods came today, so for the new ARB fitted. Didn't do a proper side by side comparison but with the tie rod in the softest setting, it looked really close to the bottom of the coilover.

So I've gone up one hole for a little more clearance.

It was done in a dimely lot garage, so may take another look when it's next up on a ramp.

Also got a package from @s12vea today in form of a new double din android head unit.

So will try and get that in tomorrow or the weekend.

Might nip out for a drive now on the new wheels/tyres and arb and see what the difference is.

New wheels and tyres are definitely lighter than my stock wheels with ns2r's on.

That arrived quickly 

Been doing a bit of "totting up" not sure whether it was a good or bad idea, just to see where I am spend vs performance wise.

Base Car:                   £2,500.00
Turbo Manifold:      £200.00
Turbo:                   £260.00
Oil lines:                   £100.00
Gauges:                   £300.00
Apexi PFC:           £550.00
Charge Pipes:           £200.00
Oil Cooler:           £120.00
Charge Cooler:   £350.00
Injectors:                   £150.00
Roll Cage:           £250.00
Bracing:                   £350.00
Seats:                   £300.00
Wheels:                   £250.00
Clutch:                   £175.00
Original Sump:   £50.00
Sundries:                   £100.00
Coilovers:           £580.00
   
                           £6,785.00

I'm pretty confident your couldn't go much faster in a mid engine RWD 2 seater for less....there is probably some stuff I've forgotten though too..Considering I could spend more on a mountain bike, but haven't for a year or two I think this is money much better spent, I mean the base van for the camper was £6k and that's awful to drive!

Granted done it all in my garage and don't have any "mapping" costs etc, but there''s loads of things on there you don't need if you're going to look at turbo'ing one of these.

On the back of that my £20 decat pipe has arrived.



I'll be cutting this up and creating a straight 2.5" pipe out of the centre from the cat back, a couple of 90" bends job done, no fuss.

Posting in here too, jsmust as a reminder to myself.

Out in the car tonight with new wheels with worn Toyo Proxes T1R's.

Usually have nankang ns2r's on.

Abs was kicking in under quite light braking, so tested it a little more on some open roads.

It got to the point where the rear was trying to come around.

Road surface was dryish, so I'll put it down to that and potentially tyres.

But when I first got in I thought the brake bias was all shot!

After having a nosey around some old threads on here and on spyder hat I'm a little more releaved now.

I'm booked on at Blyton on the 20th October so may experiment with removing the abs fuse, as I've had cars without abs before.

I also seem to be getting boost creeping uoto 12psi, when over 5k even though I've got a 9psi spring in the actuator.

I've ordered one of mambas variable actuators to see how that works with a 5psi spring in, to see if it is creep or not.

I'll also play about with a more free flowing exhaust to see if this is hampering the creep, as I've using a larger turbo than the TTE turbo.

Toyo T1-R are an awful tyre on a performance car, be careful!   they do get better once half worn though so get drifting   the newer TR-1 is meant to be a lot better but ive not tried them myself yet.

New tyres ordered.

Decided I'll use my nankang's as my 'wet' option.

So I've gone whole hog and ordered some R888r's for the summer.

Taking the sump of tomorrow night ready to fit the elise parts one I've got, subject to where the oil drain is located.

Quote from: Gaz2405 on October  8, 2019, 18:27I also seem to be getting boost creeping uoto 12psi, when over 5k even though I've got a 9psi spring in the actuator.

I've ordered one of mambas variable actuators to see how that works with a 5psi spring in, to see if it is creep or not.

I'll also play about with a more free flowing exhaust to see if this is hampering the creep, as I've using a larger turbo than the TTE turbo.

Boost creep can be caused by a few things but first is to check the actuator operation and plumbing, i use a foot pump with gauge to check its opening at correct pressure and holding pressure as well, if the actuator vac side is working ok and opening/holding etc then it could be a wastegate restriction issue, either not opening fully or not having enough flow, ive had this in past with TD05 turbo i had on the Evo and basically once i opened up exhaust with larger bore downpipe/system (which lets the turbo flow better) then the wastegate couldnt flow enough past the turbine to control boost when needed, refitting a stock front pipe was short term cure but to sort it properly i had to remove and port the wastegate hole and fit larger flap for better flow to match bigger exhaust, same issue on my old Celica GT4 so i kept stock front pipe on that to prevent it which wasnt and issue as kept it stock boost.

As you have a fairly restrictive exhaust i doubt its that and more likely the wastegate/actuator etc isnt functioning as it should,if you free up exhaust more with decat it will most likley make it worse if it is wastegate not flowing enough.

Quote from: thetyrant on October 10, 2019, 08:58

Quote from: Gaz2405 on October  8, 2019, 18:27I also seem to be getting boost creeping uoto 12psi, when over 5k even though I've got a 9psi spring in the actuator.

I've ordered one of mambas variable actuators to see how that works with a 5psi spring in, to see if it is creep or not.

I'll also play about with a more free flowing exhaust to see if this is hampering the creep, as I've using a larger turbo than the TTE turbo.

Boost creep can be caused by a few things but first is to check the actuator operation and plumbing, i use a foot pump with gauge to check its opening at correct pressure and holding pressure as well, if the actuator vac side is working ok and opening/holding etc then it could be a wastegate restriction issue, either not opening fully or not having enough flow, ive had this in past with TD05 turbo i had on the Evo and basically once i opened up exhaust with larger bore downpipe/system (which lets the turbo flow better) then the wastegate couldnt flow enough past the turbine to control boost when needed, refitting a stock front pipe was short term cure but to sort it properly i had to remove and port the wastegate hole and fit larger flap for better flow to match bigger exhaust, same issue on my old Celica GT4 so i kept stock front pipe on that to prevent it which wasnt and issue as kept it stock boost.

As you have a fairly restrictive exhaust i doubt its that and more likely the wastegate/actuator etc isnt functioning as it should,if you free up exhaust more with decat it will most likley make it worse if it is wastegate not flowing enough.

Thanks for the info.


So boost creep saga continues..

Checked all vaccum/plumbing etc everything working as it should no leaks.

Fitted a new mamba 5psi wastegate tonight to see what difference it made.


I had 5psi of boost as expected until about 3.8kish then it just ramped up to 12psi.

So get home, burn my fingers removed the circlip on the actuator and ran it with the flap open.

Seeing 1-2 psi until around 3.8k again then I've got 6psi with the flap open! I then get too rich in the map and it runs like a dog so won't rev any further.

So my name next test is going to put the old actuator on (9.6psi) if I remember, but play around with the positioning of the wastegate flap where I set it, essentially have it 1/2 open to start with.

Failing that it seems like it's turbo off and porting the wastegate (which I really can't be bothered doing) or just running it at 12psi until it goes pop then forge it.

I had boost creep on the dyno and still made the numbers I've got, but the question is, is it boost that kills engines of horse power? Only one way to find out.

My other option I've got is I've got some exhaust parts coming tomorrow to make a more free flowing exhaust, would this help with the creep?? Or make it worse?

I was going to fit my Elsie parts sump tonight,  but instead I've locked it back in the garage and having a beer and a paddy as its not working properly 😂

Torque kills engines IMHO

What turbo is it?

A gt25 running 10 psi is a very different beast to a gt35 running 10psi

It's a brand new Td04 15t, usually found on Saab hot 93's good for just under 300bhp on their engines.

The megane 225's and r26 came with the Td04 14t and ran around 12psi at standard boost with them.

I've played about with the position of the actuator vs the wastegate position now to it's not fully closed.

But that will have to wait until tomorrow for a test.

I'm thinking there's got to be a sweet spot somewhere, as it made 5psi with the flap open, so bring it back slightly with the a higher rated apeng and it should hopefully settle at 10psi.

Hmm does sound like wastegate isn't big enough to allow enough flow past turbine to keep boost down, with flap wired open you should make very little boost and even then only higher gears when you really have some load/flow on there.

I went through all this on the Evo and in the end it came down to porting or fitting external wastegate which is best solution but not always that easy to do!...  a smaller exhaust helped but then I was restricted on power due to high egt from so much back pressure, I even made a little linkage to make wastegate go even wider but it made no difference for me. 
 Opening up the exhaust will make yours worse if it is wastegate creep as it allows turbo to spin even more freely and wastegate has even harder time getting boost down.

Having set your actuator so its not closed and bleeds a little initially so makes boost a bit slower to build will help until you get into higher gears, then there will be so much gas it wont matter and you will get creep again, lowering rev limiter short term fix but no fun then I guess.

You could make pressure release after turbo and in fact my old Evos leaking dump valve was doing this and masking the creep after I fitted bigger exhaust, only when I fitted a new dump valve and tightened everything up did the creep start, also explained why I was hitting fuel cut as despite engine only getting 12psi or so the turbo was sucking 20+ past the pre-turbo maf!


I am concerned my turbo setup im going to have same issue as I would like to run a 5psi map and a 10psi map, ive tested actuator and its moving at 9-10psi so I know I cant run less and was going to source a lower psi actuator, but I think wastegate creep could be an issue like you have so I might port wastegate before it goes on,  I know from previous experience its not just about making port bigger either but also the flow path into it, in fact a turbo I bought from NZ from one of the best in world building them had stock size port hole just the entry way was much better shaped and I could run really low boost if I wanted on that turbo, my 1st diy porting I just made hole lots bigger and it still crept a bit until I improved the flow path as well.

Bloody cars eh!

Yes I think it's definitely a wastegate flow issue,I've just been out in it again with the ao bleeding a little, all is does is just takes its time to build boost and then straight into the 10's again.

I think for next weekend (Blyton) in just going to run it as I have been doing and let the creep do it's thing.

We're tailoring one of the cars there with my truck (M3) and I'm driving mine there so there's a 50/50 chance it'll get back if it goes!

To be honest after Blyton I'll not be using it much over the winter so may just bite the bullet on some rods and pistons and have an engine build to keep me occupied over the winter months, then the boost won't be an issue!

If I'm going to go to the hassle of unbolting everything to get to the turbo to take it off and try to port it which still isn't a guaranteed fix, I may as well just pull the engine and do it all on a stand.

A quick Google finds the td04's are notorious for boost creep.

Forging the motor is one option but much less work/money to pull the turbo and port wastegate

If it was me with Trackday looming I would just make sure map is safe at boost its creeping to and not push it too hard revs wise see how it goes, having trailer there will be handy should worst happen!

Map is safe through the creep, I'll be logging on the day anyway to keep an eye on things, may drop the limiter to 6.5k to be on the safe side.

If it survives I may look at porting first, but will most likely build it instead, or push the limits on a standard block/build to see where it can go.

That's good to know, seems plenty run 12psi on stock motor despite it being right on edge of what is classed as safe, also as its not a harsh boost spike but a gradual creep it should make it easier on the internals, do you have a log showing it in higher gears ?  not sure if the PFC can generate a csv log file or something that can be turned into one?  if so then uploading to datazap.me is great way to visualise logs.

Here is a datazap of a 3rd gear run in my old 135i bm when playing with cobb mapping to show you how it looks, you can just select which items you want displayed on graph by selecting them along bottom of graph - https://datazap.me/u/thetyrant/stage1-aggressive-3rd-gear?log=0&data=2-10-11

On the Evo i only used to get it in 4th and 5th as that thing passed through lower gears so quickly it never had chance to creep!, bit like you wasn't until i was looking at trackday and was doing a few high gear pulls to set boost controller i noticed i couldn't control it in higher gears due to the creep!

Ive been reading more about the SP240 kits like mine running out of puff at top end with boost taper so hopefully im not going to have an issue, i would like a low boost map though and as the saab 9000 (what turbo comes from) runs 6psi in some guises im hoping i can as well so not going to port wastegate....yet!

Hope sump install goes ok

Interesting read. Keen to see what you do with the engine. 👍

Quote from: thetyrant on October 11, 2019, 07:49That's good to know, seems plenty run 12psi on stock motor despite it being right on edge of what is classed as safe, also as its not a harsh boost spike but a gradual creep it should make it easier on the internals, do you have a log showing it in higher gears ?  not sure if the PFC can generate a csv log file or something that can be turned into one?  if so then uploading to datazap.me is great way to visualise logs.

Here is a datazap of a 3rd gear run in my old 135i bm when playing with cobb mapping to show you how it looks, you can just select which items you want displayed on graph by selecting them along bottom of graph - https://datazap.me/u/thetyrant/stage1-aggressive-3rd-gear?log=0&data=2-10-11

On the Evo i only used to get it in 4th and 5th as that thing passed through lower gears so quickly it never had chance to creep!, bit like you wasn't until i was looking at trackday and was doing a few high gear pulls to set boost controller i noticed i couldn't control it in higher gears due to the creep!

Ive been reading more about the SP240 kits like mine running out of puff at top end with boost taper so hopefully im not going to have an issue, i would like a low boost map though and as the saab 9000 (what turbo comes from) runs 6psi in some guises im hoping i can as well so not going to port wastegate....yet!

Hope sump install goes ok

Yes it's only gradual so hoping it will be OK.

Similar to your Evo, don't get it in 1st and 2nd, 3rd only sometimes dependant on load whether on a hill or not etc.

And in terms of 4th I should really be getting that high up the rev range at Blyton with it.

No graph showing boost, as it's just on std waetgate and my pfc doesn't have boost controller input or output.

Datazap looks good.

Similar to how I have my graphs set up on my pfc when logging.

I usually have water, intake temp, knock, rpm, ign timing and afr running along side each other. I find that gives me enough info for tweaking the map as and when.

Hopefully you'll be OK with the sp240 kit, if they tend to trail off anyway.

For the road Sp240 power is plenty, but we always want more!

Got the elise parts sump fitted today.

Hardest part was cleaning the surface on the block! Other than that a doddle.

I decided to fit a new oil return higher up in the pan than the standard place.

1. Because mine is a larger oil drain that the supplied welded fitting.
2. Because it just seems to low for a oil return.

All in all about 1.5 hours (I'd dropped the oil the day before)

Think I've got my GoPro angle sorted.

Actuator still letting some air bleed, so needs sorting.