Quick trip back home.

Actuator adjusted now getting 10psi 1000rpm sooner.

So Blyton today, 1st time on track in the mr2.

Boost creep was insane with creep upto 14psi!

Car still managed just fine, until the return from the second outing.

I had a family big oil leak which looked like it was coming from the gearbox end of the sump.

I managed to get another 1/4-1/2 of a turn on the sump bolts. Wiped everything down and went out up the road for a quick test.

Got back and everything seemed OK, so went back out again.

Came back in with just a slight weep.

I'm thinking that the higher boost from the creep has caused some blow by and pressurised the crank case and potentially blown the seal on the crank seal.

I wasn't losing any oil in terms of level, but it had dropped to 3/4 and was holding.

Decided to call it a day and not get oil over the track for everyone.

1 1/2 drive home and no loss in oil level but still a slight weep.

Pulled into the garage when I got home, cleaned it up with degreaser and will see how it settles.

Ive ordered an oil catch tank to help with crank case pressure and will set it up vented rather than closed loop.

Hopefully this will sort it and it's not the main seal and that it was just blown by with high crank case pressure.

Two other roadsters there today being driven to within an inch of their lives too!

Bugger! but at least you had a few laps and made it home in 1 piece so that's a result

What sealant did you use on sump? Could just of been an issue wih that? I guess you will be able to tell better once you get a proper look and can see if it's coming down out of bellhousing or not, fingers crossed it's just sump sealant.

Yeah I'm hoping it was only leaking under massive crank case pressure.

I'll fit the cat h tank and vent it to atmosphere as a cheap option to see if it fixes it.

If not I've already told the wife it's getting rebuilt and forged. 😂

Car handled well whilst it was out, took sometime getting used to it as I'm from fwd back ground, Ns2r's seemed to go off after around 5 laps.

I'll do some tinkering over winter and see what we can come back with.

Spendings got to stop for a few months on it though as we've just had an extension started at home that needs paying for!

Im not sure how you would get huge crankcase pressure enough to blow a seal though, also i think car would be very smoky with such crankcase pressure!, even if the full turbo pressure was getting into crankcase i dont think you would blow the seal, as you have 1way valve on PCV only way it would allow pressure in is past the pistons which would only happen if engine was knackered, maybe check the 1way valve on PCV hasnt failed ?   i think its just the sump sealant and hope its easy fix for you.

Sooooooo.

Got home today, did a Compression test to double check engine health.

Done on a cold engine all were bang on 175psi.

Still pondering the oil issue I checked if the 1 valve working on the pcv line.

NOPE!

So that's where my crank case pressure has come from.

I'd also previously driven the car hard to check the sump for leaks, so I'm pretty certain oil has got past the crankshaft seal but when under boost.

And since I spent nearly the entire time on track somewhere between 10 and 14 psi, I'm hoping by blocking off the Pcv at the throttle body end and venting to a catch can on the other my problems are hopefully solved..

So a bit more digging looking back through my purchases, check valve only rated to 0.6bar.

What a bell end.

Actually double checking no it might be rated to 6 bar not 0.6 bar.

Still, its blowing straight through both ways now!

I thought it would be that    get a good one on there see how it goes and hopefully sorts the issue for not much expense

Quote from: Gaz2405 on September 23, 2019, 16:23I'll put up the Maps below for those interested.

Just been having a good look over these now im tinkering with my mapping, obviously hard to compare directly due to different Ecu's but interesting non the less, the VVTi map done by previous tuner on my ecu was all over the place compared to others ive seen and yours, the PFC numbers are reversed compare to the Link to your PFC 60 is 0 in the Link but i can still see the pattern and yours looks more like others ive seen, im going to try mine with a similar shape and see how that affects things.

Is the Load scale on the PFC relevant to anything standard ( pressure, air flow etc) or is it there own thing ?  just looking for point you change from vacuum into boost really so i have something to reference from.

I'm not entirely sure where the load is taken from if I'm honest.

I've played around with a few vvti maps and this one seems to be the most commonly used.

Quick update, I still have the oil leak and its not from the sump.

Under closer inspection after cleaning with brake cleaner and taking it for a run, it would seem its coming from the crankshaft seal.

So looks like it's engine out over winter and forged build here we come. In for a penny in for a pound and all that!

Thats a bugger but at at least you can build a nice strong motor now

Ive been reading on Valve cover breathers and PCV etc when turboing these cars to see what people are using as im close to fitting mine, the kit i took off had the rear valve cover vent on back of head routed to the intake pipework before turbo but most seem to just fit a filter on back of head which i will probably do and i think you have as well ? 

PCV fitting from side of rocker cover was from what i remember connected as stock and dont recall seeing an additional 1 way valve in the pipework! but i may of missed it while removing everything and i didnt pull that pipe totally off the car so its not in my box of bits, adding in this 1way valve to prevent boost into PCV fitment from pressuring engine is a must as you know, im worried about 1way valve failure causing the same issue you had so i think i will route my PCV to the intake pipe before turbo via a filtered catch can, this should hopefully keep intake clean but still pull vented air out the rocker like stock but without pressure on it form turbo.

 

I'm not sure I saw any replies to your previous question about the TTE being restrictive (or if you had ditched it?)... .but to answer that - it probably is if you're going anything beyond a fairly entry level 200bhp turbo build.

I love my TTE for being the rorty little audio upgrade that it is, but that's all it is - I'm not kidding myself that it makes the car ANY faster and I know it'll be the first thing to go if I ever get around to an engine swap or if I want any serious power

Quote from: BahnStormer on October 28, 2019, 17:51I'm not sure I saw any replies to your previous question about the TTE being restrictive (or if you had ditched it?)... .but to answer that - it probably is if you're going anything beyond a fairly entry level 200bhp turbo build.

I love my TTE for being the rorty little audio upgrade that it is, but that's all it is - I'm not kidding myself that it makes the car ANY faster and I know it'll be the first thing to go if I ever get around to an engine swap or if I want any serious power

I do still have the TTE, but have bought the parts to fabricate a new system which be essentially a 2.5" straight from the sports cat.

Currently waiting to hear back from a local machine shop on pricing for having the block sleeved and going to 82mm pistons.

Well done on the turbo build and thanks for sharing. Good luck with the engine modifications over the winter.

Quote from: Astralplane666 on November  2, 2019, 11:47Well done on the turbo build and thanks for sharing. Good luck with the engine modifications over the winter.

I'm only in Holmfirth of you ever fancy a gander.

OK, so found a local engineering shop that will do Darton sleeves for £700, so I'm on the look out for a spare engine to use as the build base.

In other news ordered a new main seal to swap over in the mean time.

Started on removing the gearbox in the garage, but of a ball ache as I didn't have a 30mm 12 point socket for the hub.

Not to be defeated I undid everything around the hub to give it enough room to get the drive shaft out by swinging the hub out.

Gearbox is out now and car rolled back into the garage with the trolley jack holding the back end up.

I'll try and get under it tomorrow to whip the clutch and flywheel off but from a quick inspection definitely looks like it's that seal.

Some pictures to go with the above, also had loads of oil on the inside of the flywheel.

This is after it had had a quick wipe down as well.

Gearbox now has had a lick of paint and new sea should be coming today hopefully.

The job itself is quite easy, its just removing everything to get to it!

Ok so new seal arrived in the post today.

So I've been under the car tonight, swapping it over, gave the face of the engine a clean down the clutch and brake cleaner.

Pulled the old seal out and pressed the new one in, you had to work and twist it around to get it started then firmly seated it with a rubber/plastic mallet.

Whilst I was under there I also drilled and tapped out the snapped sump bolt I had as it was the one closest to the gearbox and I couldn't get access with the box on. (this wasn't the cause of the leak as its been on two different sumps like that now, but for piece of mind)

Just banged in the 1st bolt in I came across, looks rough, but works and that's all that matters it ain't no show car.

I've also cleaned up the gearbox mounts that are off and given them a lick of smooth hammerite black and silver for the gearbox.






Hopefully I'll get the box back on at the weekend and give her a test drive if it's dry.

Another step closer

Quick post.

Gearbox back on. What a bastard!

Don't fancy wrestling it on again just in the garage. I'll take it somewhere with a lift next time.

So everything is now back together. Took the car out for a quick spin.

No oil leak, but I do have a weep on the os driveshaft. Lazy of me really should have replaced the gearbox seals whilst I had it out.

It's most likely out of shape slightly after wrestling with the the gearbox to get it home properly.

I'll pull both shafts and replace both seals whilst I'm at it.

Order two new seals from mr2 Ben for £30.

I get around dn to fitting them in the next couple of weeks.

Do after reading JB21's issue on his 2zz with the elise parts baffled sump I decided to drop the oil on mine tonight.

Full oil drop showed 4.8l with the filter still on, this was showing full on the dip stick.

Whilst I've got the sump drained I'm going to take the sump off again to double and triple check the seal on it.

Also drained the gearbox oil ready for new drive shaft seals.

Quote from: Gaz2405 on November 10, 2019, 17:24Do after reading JB21's issue on his 2zz with the elise parts baffled sump I decided to drop the oil on mine tonight.

Full oil drop showed 4.8l with the filter still on, this was showing full on the dip stick.

Whilst I've got the sump drained I'm going to take the sump off again to double and triple check the seal on it.

Also drained the gearbox oil ready for new drive shaft seals.

I was going to ask how much oil you put in after fitting it, sounds right with the 1zz setup as that's 1litre more than stock sump which I think is what EP say it takes.

So.... New drive shaft seals in.

Sump resealed.

All fluids back in.

Boost now on a 12psi actuator.

Couple of hours mapping on the road and it's back in business!

Did have a bit of a scare when I was getting what felt like fuel cut 5.5k rpm in third.

Spent a good few runs trying to sort it, ended up being a fat finger moment on the base map, it was trying to run 479% injector duty in one cell, rather than the 47.9% I thought I'd put it! Spanner!

Upped the timing by a 1-2 degrees in a few places where it looked it could take it. Max knock is still below 25, with most in the teens.

Got home checked for fluid leaks, nothing at all, so treated her to a jet wash and tucked her back away.

Next job is to start working in the exhaust and remove the TTE back box.

Couple of hours out in the car this weekend fiddling with the map and boost pressure.

I'm running the 12psi spring but with a decent amount of pre load meaning its actually 14psi.

Boost is coming in nice and early and not in one big wallop.

Car definitely pulls a lot harder now and is a beast WOT in 1st and 2nd.

Which in reality it won't be getting much of that on the road or on track.

I doubled checked by oil temps normall driving I'm seeing 80-85, but the sensor is directly after the oil cooler.

I've ordered another header tanl for the charge cooler, to open out the fitting to AN12 rather than the AN6 that's currently on there.

Other than that snould be picking up a few engines as spares to build shortly.