Nice man, wish I could do all that myself. What ECU/Software you using?

It's only an apexi pfc, has the basics but none of the safety features so have to start really conservatively with timing and fuelling. Then go from there.

Okay, I might have a look into all that. Some holiday reading.

What's your plans for the gearbox once you're finished building the engine?

Gearbox wise I'm going to see how the standard one holds up.

I've read about the jubu gears etc.

But I'll most likely look at putting one in from a different model or even make.

It will mean a bell housing adapter plate, and driveshaft/hub modifications.

If I do end up going down a different manufacturer I'd try and make a honda work, as drive shafts are available.

Took the car out earlier this afternoon thinking the roads might be OK.

Struggled to find any dry roads hasn't rained for a ouole of days but still very greasy, car is useless in these conditions can't get any power down at all combination of summer tyres and boost.

Still nice to get out for few hours to have a little shake down since it's been in bits for a while.

Made a change to log the whole drive in 'normal' driving conditions to keep an eye on everything.

Quick trip to the jet wash before tucking it back into the hibernation in the garage.

Managed to get a few bits done over the Christmas break on the car.

I've ordered a new aluminium header tank with 19mm tails for the charge cooler set up to eradicate the bottle necks I had in the system, which should help keep intake temps down on track.

Got a an aluminium catch talank fitted and set up venting to atmosphere.

I've also ordered some 15mm and 20mm spacers from Mr2-Ben to experiment with different track width and also bought an arch roller just incase too.

The car has a had a couple of long trips over the break with 2x Yorkshire to Oxford trips which to by better half's delight was used as one great big mapping session to get the cruising AFR's to where I wanted them.

I'm still reasonable undecided as to whether to go Kswap or forge another 1zz for the next stage.

I've looked into the EA60 gearbox swap and  it seems pretty straight forward (in terms  of a box swap). Looks like it will involve lotus shifter and cables, a potential bell housing adaptor plate and drive shafts.

Other options for sticking with 1zz forged would be a quaife gearbox, which I haven't ruled out.

If I go kswap it will most likely be a K24 rather than k20 or k20/24.

Jeez man, kseries is the ultimate swap. There's a k24 with k20 head on eBay at the moment for a grand...

Forged 1ZZ can be much cheaper though.

Have you seen the roadster sport rods for 1zz on ebay? 225quid. They reckon people are running those with stock pistons at 320+HP.. No need for darton sleeves and all that.

Would like to see how the stock gearbox holds up at 300HP. Strap an oil cooler to it and hope for the best.

I've been doing some rough excel build sheets a little more realistic.

Forged 1zz coming at about £3k-£5k depending on how much of the build I do myself with an allowance for Jubu gears.

Kswap (turbo) coming in at around £6k-£8k. Without a rebuild.

Forged 1zz with sequential box in at around £8-£10k

Interesting stuff going on with frankenstein motorworks.

Making a 2GR more of a home grown possibility. Which I think would come in a similar money to the kswap using a EA60 gearbox and if you're not afraid to use the angle grinder and do a bit of welding.

I'll see how mine goes in its current for the foreseeable future and keep on doing the research before deciding which way to go. Once the building work is done at home (next couple of months) I should get some garage space back to tinker in. But won't have the time as I'll be fitting a new kitchen and rebuilding the sub-floor 🤣.

I absolutely love the idea of the k24 conversion, but every clip I've seen so far of a conversion seems to suggest it brings imbalance to the car, leading to a very iffy back end.

Spirit MR-S owner indirectly confirmed that in a video of a tour of his car. He's asked about K20 and his reply was its too heavy and breaks the balance of the car.

Makes you wonder. 

The 2gr or 1mz doesn't seem to have this effect.... Odd.

Quote from: shnazzle on January  9, 2020, 21:25I absolutely love the idea of the k24 conversion, but every clip I've seen so far of a conversion seems to suggest it brings imbalance to the car, leading to a very iffy back end.

Spirit MR-S owner indirectly confirmed that in a video of a tour of his car. He's asked about K20 and his reply was its too heavy and breaks the balance of the car.

Makes you wonder.

The 2gr or 1mz doesn't seem to have this effect.... Odd.

Yes, you wouldn't  really expect the imbalance, especially with how well 2GR and 1mz's are regarded.

With the power available though, I'm sure some moving some of the  weight around the car (if you're that serious about it should go some way to eliminating the problem, its not like you'll be chasing the KG's for power to weight!

1st day back home this week, so had an hour in the garage as some "bits"  had turned up.

I'm got a 20mm spacer on the rear wheel at the moment which I've also  had to roll the arch slightly to accommodate. From looking at it from an awkward angle in the garage it seems ok and gives a better "stance" (god I hate that word!) I know it won't be everyone's cup of tea and we all have our own opinions on handling set ups, but you've got to try these things!

Got the oil catch tank in and the new expansion tank has arrived the charge cooler so I'll try and get that fitted over the weekend

Managed to get a couple of hours on the car today.

All spacers fitted 15mm front 20mm rear and rolled the arches to accommodate.

New header tank fitted and working much better, plenty of flow and now restricted passages anymore.

Took the car out for a quick blast, slight rub on the osr on bigger hits, would probably be OK on track as would be set stiffer.  I'll take the wheel off and roll that one a little more or stiffen it up.

Few more purchases to come next week,  barbarian middle and rear strut braces, omp steering wheel and boss.

Bit of a mini update with some pictures, I'll add the flickr links when I'm next on a laptop.

Rear brace cmae today so got that fitted.

I bought (purposefully), a fake/cheap omp wheel to check for size/shape/looks as its a flat bottom. I'll give a test drive and replace with the real deal if I prefer it.

Also new header tank is in, flow is roughly a thousand times better now with 19mm tails!!!
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Catch can also temp fitted in place with some tech screws to see how it does in that location.

Hey,
Can you point me from where did you buy these on the last pic? Are these oil catch cans or expansion tanks?

The header tank was a slight second from an ebay motorsport fabricator, as the brackets had been put in the wrong place.

Oil catch can was also an ebay special £25 or so.


Infact £15!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F222730088198

Do say what your thoughts are on the rear brace..,

Quote from: jvanzyl on January 14, 2020, 20:55Do say what your thoughts are on the rear brace..,

Haven't had the car out to test the brace, I'm not expecting any difference from the standard to be honest.

I did have the lift the car up to get the studs to drop through the top mounts to fit it though and the the bulk head holes where quite tight, but nothing an 18v impact gun couldn't rattle in!

Quote from: Gaz2405 on January 14, 2020, 20:48The header tank was a slight second from an ebay motorsport fabricator, as the brackets had been put in the wrong place.

Oil catch can was also an ebay special £25 or so.


Infact £15!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F222730088198

How many litters can you chuff in your header tank? There is on on ebay for 30 quids thats 2.5l but im not sure that the holes are big enough. If you can give me the seller from whom you purchased yours would be great. Thats the only item that is left for me to have all the parts

It probably holds around 1.5-2l.

Sellers details below.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/gone_autosport?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754

Cheers

Gary

Did some experimenting with losing the TTE back box today and using some 2.5" bends to create a cat back system to free up some flow.

It doesn't look pretty, but first test drive out it seems to do the job.

I'll probably test it on track before having a one piece system bent with no joints.

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First impressions of the size of of fake omp wheel was good as well, although it does create a blind spot at the businesses end of rev counter...

No silencer ?   I bet that sounds fruity   mine is pretty much same and only has a small carbon bike silencer and surprised how quiet it is, I will be fitting a larger silencer though as don't want any issues with noise limits on trackdays and while its not that loud outside it does drone a bit inside.

Yeah no silencer, it's not too bad actually.

I think it should pass most db tests.

mine's just a sports cat and no silencer and I was surprised how quiet it is!

Quote from: Gaz2405 on January 18, 2020, 18:02Yeah no silencer, it's not too bad actually.

I think it should pass most db tests.

I was surprised how reasonable mine is as well but im going to fit a larger one to be safe.

Don't suppose you have any pictures of your oil drain/return setup on car do you ?  im still not happy with mine and about to redo it again and get turbo seals cheaked, be good to see how yours sits for reference

Got no pictures of it at the moment, but the car will be up on axle stands this weekend whilst I stone chip the under neath and fit my mid brace so I'll get some snaps.

It's basically as high up in the sump as possible with an AN16 fitting.

What is you feed size to the turbi, mine has a restrictor in it?

Quote from: Gaz2405 on January 19, 2020, 19:31Got no pictures of it at the moment, but the car will be up on axle stands this weekend whilst I stone chip the under neath and fit my mid brace so I'll get some snaps.

It's basically as high up in the sump as possible with an AN16 fitting.

What is you feed size to the turbi, mine has a restrictor in it?

Thanks that would be great if you could, are you sure its AN16 on sump thats a big bugger around 1" bore ?

Ive got a 3/4" bore fitting on my sump now and its as high as it will go but the drain down pipework to it from turbo is what im not happy with, turbo could do with clocking slightly to get it more direct down which i think doesnt help which im going to do, might be restricted on water pipes if i can get that perfect though but im going to try and get a better angle which will help drain and clearance from exhaust.


Oil feed on mine im not sure on size will measure when its off next but quite small pipe and there is a pop rivet restrictor inside connection to oil pressure fitting, this was done when kit was originally fitted to last car and think its around 1mm hole i think, ive read a fair bit about restrictors recently and for a normal journal bearing turbo they are not usually needed more for ball bearing turbos, however as its connected to high pressure feed from oil pressure port its probably a good idea and certainly no shortage of oil in my turbo!

Do you know what size restrictor is in yours ?