Koni inserts

Started by J88TEO, August 21, 2022, 17:41

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J88TEO

So today I finally get to start.
Dismantle the old struts ( courtesy of @Smithy ) and the shocks turned out to be original Toyota ones!
AS per guide I centre punched the bottom of the shocks and drilled the pilot holes and drained the oil.
Photos to follow....

Nvy

Be sure to use Koni youtube guide to measure where to cut. Had this problem and wrote a thread about it

Call the midlife!

Quote from: Nvy on August 21, 2022, 20:38Be sure to use Koni youtube guide to measure where to cut. Had this problem and wrote a thread about it
Agreed, the measurements in the instructions with the inserts are wrong for the rears.
60% of the time it works everytime...

J88TEO

Cool.
Thanks for that.

Gaz mr-s

If you're using an angle grinder I suggest cutting them high-up, separate the rod out, then you have a simpler cut for the real one.

Beachbum957

The Koni instructions are not correct or rather partially correct.  65mm is correct for the front as that is right at the point the housing flares out to the larger diameter.  The boot for the shock body on the front will bottom on the spring mount.

But the rear should be cut just below the "cap" on the strut or about 30 mm.  This was verified with an old strut and a worn out rear Koni insert.  The most you can cut on the rear is about 40 mm and still have the centering "nubs" on the insert body fit inside the housing.

Call the midlife!

Quote from: Beachbum957 on August 22, 2022, 11:01The Koni instructions are not correct or rather partially correct.  65mm is correct for the front as that is right at the point the housing flares out to the larger diameter.  The boot for the shock body on the front will bottom on the spring mount.

But the rear should be cut just below the "cap" on the strut or about 30 mm.  This was verified with an old strut and a worn out rear Koni insert.  The most you can cut on the rear is about 40 mm and still have the centering "nubs" on the insert body fit inside the housing.
The Koni video advises to measure the insert from top of the cylinder to the nub and then subtract 6mm (I think at least, best to check first 😂) works fine for the rears. At least it did on the second one after already cutting the first to the instructions at 65mm as I'd done the fronts first and had no issues.
The instructions included aren't really the best.
60% of the time it works everytime...

J88TEO


Call the midlife!

Let us know how you get on trying to torque the top nuts up...👍🏻
60% of the time it works everytime...

J88TEO

Am doing this very slowly ( not much time on my hands as I have a 2 year old ) so will be quite a wait!  ;D

Gaz mr-s

Quote from: Call the midlife! on August 22, 2022, 15:20Let us know how you get on trying to torque the top nuts up...👍🏻

@J88TEO, if the top mount 'D' fit is iffy, using a narrow chisel (or perhaps a big screwdriver) the straight edge of it can be massaged to make it a tighter fit.

J88TEO

Noted with thanks.
Cheers.

J88TEO

Cut the front 65mm and rear 30mm, as recommended.
Drilled the 14mm holes for the bolts.
Now to clean up and send for powder coating.

J88TEO

After a long delay the KYBs are back, sand blasted and powder coated.
Now...I have TTE springs and Tein springs.
The questin is which one to go for!

Call the midlife!

60% of the time it works everytime...

Topdownman

My vote would be tte over teins.
"Racing" tax disc holder (binned), Poundland air freshener, (ran out), Annoying cylinder deficiency,  (sorted),
Winner of the Numb bum award 2017
Readers Ride

06 not V6 readers ride

J88TEO

Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 20, 2023, 07:40H&R...
My vote would be tte over teins.
Thanks gents!.

Q...H&R over TTE?

Call the midlife!

I can't speak for the TTE, can't remember who actually makes them but I'm on H&R and no complaints.
60% of the time it works everytime...

Topdownman

Eibach are said to be the people who made the TTEs.
"Racing" tax disc holder (binned), Poundland air freshener, (ran out), Annoying cylinder deficiency,  (sorted),
Winner of the Numb bum award 2017
Readers Ride

06 not V6 readers ride

J88TEO

Thanks gents...I will go with the TTE first and if I don't like the feel then will look into the H&Rs.
Cheers.

Beachbum957

A good suggestion for any lowering spring is to cut (shorten) the front bump stops.  Otherwise it doesn't take much travel to get into the bump stops, which will make the front feel very stiff.  The stock rear bump stops are OK.

The original Tein S-Tech instructions recommended cutting.8 inch (20 mm) off the bottom of the stop, or just below the groove for the boot. Basically close to the amount the front is lowered. The result is close to stock front suspension travel and there is still enough left to prevent mechanical bottoming.

Call the midlife!

I didn't cut my stops and regretted it last weekend in Cumbria, felt them a few times so it's on my list of winter jobs when I replace the struts.
60% of the time it works everytime...

J88TEO

Noted.
Thanks for that!

MrT

Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 23, 2023, 12:08I didn't cut my stops and regretted it last weekend in Cumbria, felt them a few times so it's on my list of winter jobs when I replace the struts.
FYI folks I got Insignia (I think) bump stops matching the koni shaft diameter but much shorter than stock, got a good 40mm extra stroke. The car is on Teins so low enough but still manages all the horrendous potholes etc and rarely bottoms out. Bottomed a few times on jumps/wallows going inappropriately fast but it's never crashed down or been uncomfortable etc. I'm pleased with them.

PS the front ARB links will knock the bollom bolt of the Koni in the strut, no big deal except it runs the paint off so I put XCF or Viscolene or similar waxy water blocker on it. And if you compress only one wheel enough to touch it actually increases the ARB rate a small amount [emoji12] Ideal for track days or the Nurburgring...

Enjoy

Cheers
Tyler

Cheers
Tyler

RIPieces: Sable \'05 Roadster \'Red\' edition.
Project: MR-S import (JDM) now my toy and mule for:
SC build OR a 2AR-FXE swap (ref: Frankenstein Motorworks) OR Electric conversion
AND rebody with a fibreglass replica of Porsche 550 Spyder.

SuperArt

Quote from: J88TEO on May 23, 2023, 09:07Thanks gents...I will go with the TTE first and if I don't like the feel then will look into the H&Rs.
Cheers.

Where did you get TTE from?

I have a set from Ivo, but they need sprucing up and I'm not sure at this stage if it's worth doing or if I should just buy new from some other brand.
Best regards,
Arthur
Essex - "Always happy to meet up for a weekend drive"
Making demented squirrel noises since 2014
TTE "Turbo Dodo" - https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?msg=797148
TTE Turbo "Friday" - https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?topic=73711.0

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