Ive got my FL down to 938kg with half a tank of fuel.

Hardtop gutted
Full front interior still is situ
Rear interior gutted
Passengers airbag removed
Passenger seat removed
300mm OMP steering wheel
6 point T45 cage
OMP fiber glass bucket seat (9kg)
Golf kart battery (6kg)
Fully aftermarket braced
Coilovers
Frunk fully gutted
Lightweight silencer (<5kg)
200cel sport cat
1zz/2zz hybrid header
0Z 15" wheels (6.5kg each)

This weight has gone up recently though as I've added a proper battery (11kg) and added a passenger seat (15kg) for track days rides, so car now weighs 958kg.

Although the fluids are about correct, it is academic. Only a lowish fuel level is a low as thát gets in the real world 
My observation was to point out that real world weight of your car is not 950 ks. 
Weighing will give you a real number and a solid base to measure your gains from.

Here is a ´nice´example of weight bs:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_t0PsTumWc

Look at the claim at 20 seconds.
The car as going round on the track is likely over JBs 985.

@JB21 gives a great example. He added a lót of lightness. Look at p.e. seats, battery, exhaust adding up hefty kgs.
Btw JB did you delete the softtop? 20 kg ´margin´ there.....

Quote from: Petrus on January  5, 2023, 11:47Although the fluids are about correct, it is academic. Only a lowish fuel level is a low as thát gets in the real world 
My observation was to point out that real world weight of your car is not 950 ks. 
Weighing will give you a real number and a solid base to measure your gains from.

@JB21 gives a great example. He added a lót of lightness. Look at p.e. seats, battery, exhaust adding up hefty kgs.
Btw JB did you delete the softtop?

Sorry yeah soft top also deleted.

Awesome. Cheers guys. Yes will definitely get it on some scales to find the true weight of the car. Turns out the place I am taking the car to for Dyno also has weighing scales.

So in theory if my car ends up weighing around 1000kgs dead (with a full tank), then by my calculations on the fluids being roughly 50kgs that would suggest a dry/kerb weight of 950kgs which is what I read it was online. Just really curious on the validity of the dry/kerb weight value more than anything

Quote from: LeEdFollow on January  5, 2023, 12:04a dry/kerb weight of 950kgs which is what I read it was online.

For the PFL 

Quite a bonus the shop has scales!!

Oh and about your battery. Moving it up front means adding héavy cable.
Whether you want the weight from the rear to the front is questionable. The track experts are better versed in answering that.

Quote from: Petrus on January  5, 2023, 12:51Oh and about your battery. Moving it up front means adding héavy cable.
Whether you want the weight from the rear to the front is questionable. The track experts are better versed in answering that.

That's a very good point

Quote from: Anon on January  5, 2023, 14:53I've moved mine to the front, as I found with the front trunk gutted out on both cars they were a bit prone to locking up front inside wheel and occasional unexpected surprise understeer on turn in especially on Knickerbrook where there is no braking to load up the front for the turn in (note: this was pre semi slicks and camber). Thus instead on the track car I moved the battery to the front as low and central as possible, and I run a full sized normal lead acid battery. I think the front plastic undertray is important too as I went out without it and the car felt far less confidence inspiring at higher speeds, almost floaty.

Interesting on the undertray as mine doesn't have one as it got ripped off in the big Three sisters crash I had, and I know what you mean at high speeds. Need to DIY myself a front chassis mounted splitter really.

Quote from: Anon on January  5, 2023, 14:53I think the front plastic undertray is important too as I went out without it and the car felt far less confidence inspiring at higher speeds, almost floaty.

The front under plastic is important for limiting lift. Venting the bonnet helps too. A bit of rake ditto.

@JB21 extending the custom bottom shield will reduce lift more but it needs to be compensated in the bonnet because the air through the rad needs to go sómewhere.

Quote from: Petrus on January  5, 2023, 15:46The front under plastic is important for limiting lift. Venting the bonnet helps too. A bit of rake ditto.

@JB21 extending the custom bottom shield will reduce lift more but it needs to be compensated in the bonnet because the air through the rad needs to go sómewhere.

Indeed, vents need to go just past where the radiator stops and ideally a tilt on the rad too to help the airflow upwards, like in some lotus cars. I know what's needs doing, just getting the time to do it.

Quote from: JB21 on January  5, 2023, 15:48ideally a tilt on the rad too to help the airflow upwards,

´

Nah, air will flow from higher to lower pressure anyway and the cooling of the ZZW30 is quite generous. For aero, the lift, redirecting ány flow from under to above counts twice.

Imo it is the st period, to not give a hoot and do your own thing for yourself.

But we are drifting WAY off topic 

Good morning Lee.
Hope you are not losing momentum.
Please do keep cracking on and let us anoraks not hold you up 
Looking forward to hearing all of the freed up OEM ponies.

Thanks Petrus.

Still moving along here. Car is in the bodyshop as of yesterday being all welded up, but I hope to get it back today or early next week. I can then get the final painting/undersealing done at the front and start to fit all the new suspension/sway bars/brakes/braces etc

It's been nice to have a day away from the car to be honest Gave me some time to get on the Playstation and get some SnowRunner done lol

Thanks for the update.

Not used to rusting ZZW30s here 
Last time I played a videogame was in the seventies; the ´Moonlander´ test program.
Maintaining contact with the charming companies per whatsapp is a virtual as my life gets 

Was réally pleased you going for the AD08RS btw. Those are predictable and that will be só much simpler when setting up the car to your taste.

Anyway; enjoy!

Yeah I'm a big fan of the AD08R's. I used to run them on the Monaro VXR and the GT86 (On super lightweight 17x7 Advan Model 7 Alloys) but after fitting my big brake kit to the 86 I had to move from 17's up to 18's to clear the callipers (Moved to Rays 57xtreme in 18x8.5) and couldn't find stock of AD08R tyres in the size I needed anywhere since they had been discontinued, could only buy the newer AD08RS tyres at that point in time which I had heard mixed reviews about. So I took this opportunity to switch over to Goodyear Eagle F1 Asym 5's because I had heard really good things about them and in all honesty I haven't really noticed any less grip out on track (but to be fair I went from 215 to 235 width tyres which may account for this). Wet control is massively improved though.

If I'm honest I would have liked to have had some Eagle F1 Aym5/6's or Pilot Sport 4/5's on the MR2 but they just don't seem to make decent UHP tyres in the MR2's stock 15/16 tyre sizes. So was quite delighted to find you could get hold of AD08RS in stock MR2 size - plus they were really reasonably priced!

Not my first choice, but AD08R vs AD08RS compound differences aside I'm sure they will perform really well on such a small/light car. Expecting that I should be able to really abuse them once they are warm lol

Here the corner weight result of a PFL with full fuel load.
It is by Node on Spyderchat and his car has has a lot, lót, LOT of lightness added to it incl. carbon bonnet, soft top deleted and carbon hard top with plexi window fitted.

So I've finished the rust removal/painting/undersealing to half way down the car

Just now need to tackle the rust in the rear of the sils (which will require some welding) and then the rust in the engine bay either side of the exhaust.

Fitted all my Cusco braces (Front Strut, Rear Strut and Centre Breatplate) and that's add 3kgs to the car. But I'll get that back plus more by removing the stock intake pipework and the stock exhaust system (plus heat shield)

Quote from: LeEdFollow on January 23, 2023, 09:46So I've finished the rust removal/painting/undersealing to half way down the car

Just now need to tackle the rust in the rear of the sils (which will require some welding) and then the rust in the engine bay either side of the exhaust.

Fitted all my Cusco braces (Front Strut, Rear Strut and Centre Breatplate) and that's add 3kgs to the car. But I'll get that back plus more by removing the stock intake pipework and the stock exhaust system (plus heat shield)

Oh, that must mean there's another nice video to go have a look at. Really enjoying the series!

Quote from: LeEdFollow on January 23, 2023, 09:46So I've finished the rust removal/painting/undersealing to half way down the car

Just now need to tackle the rust in the rear of the sils (which will require some welding) and then the rust in the engine bay either side of the exhaust.

Fitted all my Cusco braces (Front Strut, Rear Strut and Centre Breatplate) and that's add 3kgs to the car. But I'll get that back plus more by removing the stock intake pipework and the stock exhaust system (plus heat shield)

Thumbs up for the derusting and conservation!

So... you managed to make the car héavier sofar  Just teasing  

Again. Do look around at this forum about the intake. OEM is pretty good.

Cheers. Will be ditching the intake tube in the passenger rear wing when I have that off the car to do the new exhaust/rear rust.

Will need to go for a different intake though once the 2ZZ is in to the make sure it doesn't run too rich/lean. From reading up on it the standard 1ZZ airbox can't flow enough for the 2ZZ's high rpm breathing.

Quote from: LeEdFollow on January 24, 2023, 19:03Cheers. Will be ditching the intake tube in the passenger rear wing when I have that off the car to do the new exhaust/rear rust.

Will need to go for a different intake though once the 2ZZ is to the make sure it doesn't run too rich/lean. From reading up on it the standard 1ZZ airbox can't flow enough for the 2ZZ's high rpm breathing.

De-restricting the elbow on the filter housing is a good idea. Be aware though that deleting the duct in the mudguard means the entry will be behind the rear lamp unit and that is a lót dirtier are than behind the battery where the duct takes it from.

The 2ZZ ok, but the 1ZZ is best with the OEM box.

For those of us who don't do YouTube (haven't time these days), do you have any photos to share on this thread?

Very intrigued by your concept. It's much the same concept I embraced for mine except I limited myself to what Toyota did make available for the platform. My what if was "what would a Toyota factory turbo roadster have looked like?"

After completing the eurospec Dodo I had plans to go full JDM and 2zz on a second roadster but being out of work a little last year put paid to that.
I'll settle with living vicariously through your build.

Quote from: SuperArt on February  3, 2023, 18:56My what if was "what would a Toyota factory turbo roadster have looked like?"

Is that question not aswered by the TTE Turbo? That is after all the Germany based TRD fully supported and warranted by Toyota Corp.

@Petrus Exactly, but they didn't do it. There was never an official special edition. My dodo is what I imagine one would've looked like.

Edit: I don't mean official kit, I mean official turbo roadster edition like sw20 MR2 turbo. Anyway let's stop derailing this thread.