Right- managed to fit it! @Ardent  pics attached!

Couple of points to note:
- it's narrower than the stock
- it's designed for single exit exhausts
- going to have to be pretty accurate with my exhaust design so that I don't interfere with it.

@jvanzyl

Much appreciated.
I like that.
I think I would have to butcher the left side as the intercooler sits down there on mine.

Quote from: Ardent on May 25, 2023, 22:14@jvanzyl

Much appreciated.
I like that.
I think I would have to butcher the left side as the intercooler sits down there on mine.

No worries- at least modifying this thing would be a neater job than the plastics.. (I think) and if you wanted to get fancy you could get a metal fabricator/ welder to create a duct to hit the intercooler nicely.

Further progress at lunchtime today with the exhaust manifold, cat & muffler off as well as the airbox and heat shielding.

O2 sensors don't want to come out of Zero.. so will keep plus gassing them.

Have a significant amount of oil sludge...unsure if it's the cv boot or the oil tensioner.

So next steps are to clean up sludge find source and fix.

Then to start with the clutch change I guess as that'll be the biggest pain.

looks like grease from the CV joint AND a bit of a leak past the O ring.

I'll send you one if you like.

c

Quote from: Carolyn on June  6, 2023, 14:27looks like grease from the CV joint AND a bit of a leak past the O ring.

I'll send you one if you like.

c

Ah - thank you! And yes please!

And in other news I finally stumped up for the Wideband courtesy of gt4play.

Lunchtime update.
Carried on cleaning up sludge.
It does look like it's mainly from the CV joint, plus a leak from the sump (I think!) time will tell.

Took off the old cv boot, and found that the seam where the glue goes had failed. No matter! I have a spare! Or so I thought.. turns out that despite the box saying it works with the tri-lobe, what I actually have isn't that.

So... will order a replacement but have cling filmed up the joint just in case it takes me a while.

Clutch is next on the list to do, so will need to fork out for some silly expensive red liquid it seems.

Questions for all:
Is MT90 still the go to or is there a better/newer thing everyone else is using?

Second question- anyone else getting surface rust on their sumps? And is it an issue?

mew pics

@jvanzyl :  You can cut the lobes off the failed boot and glue them to the replacement one.  Cut them off with the surround as one piece. - you'll see how it goes together.

The rusty sump isn't uncommon and will eventually go porous and weep, it'll probably last until you fit your Eliseparts one 👍🏻

I'm using Motul gearbox oil.

Have had no issues.  It's good stuff.

I am happy with mt90, seems to make the changes easier than amsoil imo.

I needed a new sump on my 06 due to corrosion so it is happening more often now it seems.

Quote from: Topdownman on June  7, 2023, 16:53I am happy with mt90, seems to make the changes easier than amsoil imo.

I needed a new sump on my 06 due to corrosion so it is happening more often now it seems.

Quote from: Call the midlife! on June  7, 2023, 15:33The rusty sump isn't uncommon and will eventually go porous and weep, it'll probably last until you fit your Eliseparts one 👍🏻

Thanks both - will try and treat it if I can..

Quote from: Carolyn on June  7, 2023, 15:20@jvanzyl :  You can cut the lobes off the failed boot and glue them to the replacement one.  Cut them off with the surround as one piece. - you'll see how it goes together.

I fear in the removal process I may have made it unusable.. :-/

Quote from: Alex Knight on June  7, 2023, 16:47I'm using Motul gearbox oil.

Have had no issues.  It's good stuff.

Ah - I ended up with the old MT90 stuff. Will bear this in mind for next time.

Super slow progress today.
Took remainder of battery housing out & the pipe going to the throttle body (which fought me a fair bit)






Then disconnected ground to gearbox and the reversal switch


Started taking off the gear selector cables only to succeed with one of them and not the other- can't seem to get it out.



Cabling and piping is really hindering me so I'm thinking of removing the coolant pipe and the wiring harness as far as possible to help. I hate this business of starting one job then having to divert to another- but I'm replacing the radiator anyway so it's gotta be drained.

So next step is to drain the coolant- and either do the radiator then or come back to the clutch.

Oh and one of my rear strut braces bolts dropped down into the engine bay- mustn't forget to find that.

AND I need to either use thread lock on my battery cage and weld on captive nuts.

Started draining the coolant- many liters out so far but I'm sure there's still more  in there. Used the engine and two plugs on the front coolant pipes.

Front under tray taken out- couldn't see any drain plugs on the bottom of my radiator... so will basically undo all the fastenings holding it in place and then undo the rubber to solid pipe joining things and try not to get it all over me.

All of the plug nuts are loose

@jvanzyl   

You don't need to completely drain the radiator.  Just open the bleed screw at the top, and let it drain via the open ports under the car. It will leave half a radiator full, but it's of no consequence.

What's the first rule about opening the drain screws in the front hard lines? 
Don't open the drain screws in the front hard lines!
Well done on getting them out without them shearing off 😃

My first exploration of the 2's cooling system was around 2013 after MrT refilled the system with very expensive long life coolant without checking the condition of the rad.
The resultant signs of a leak, some 6 months later following it's winter hibernation, was when I fitted a replacement rad. Just out of warranty that rad blew out a plug that Coolparts, the supplier had no previous complaint or knowledge about!
The rad was refilled with water to get me home and then refilled with a " long life" coolant from a local motor factor.
Around 2019 I drained the system as completely as I could and measured what came out.
Because of my relatively recent attack on those front drains and the application of a trace of Coppaslip on the threads I had no problem undoing them, I also opened the engine block drain.
Flushing the system with a hose pipe eventually released a slug of something rusty brown!
Satisfied there was nothing much left in the system I refilled with a Toyota specific  long life fluid by Ravenol, the same manufacturer as the PS fluid that I changed at the same time.
Again measuring what I put in, Ravenol and deionised water ( from Tesco) the system was refilled with little or no problem with air locking.
It was likely the brief period of the low cost after market fluid that caused the " brown slug".

@jvanzyl said:
Second question- anyone else getting surface rust on their sumps? And is it an issue? 
At 67k and with under trays fitted the sump on my 2 is not showing surface rust.

Quote from: Carolyn on June  7, 2023, 15:20@jvanzyl :  You can cut the lobes off the failed boot and glue them to the replacement one.  Cut them off with the surround as one piece. - you'll see how it goes together.

Ok I think I'm doing something wrong here. I thought I had ordered the right part: see image 4 Bailcast CVS18 Universal Split... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0080DLLIY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

However what arrived is exactly what I already have! 

What am I supposed to search for that will give me the tri lobe attachment on a split CV not that I can glue together? The old one isn't recoverable.

Would greatly appreciate some help here.

The drive shafts will be the same on all the cars that use the 1ZZ engine/gearbox.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314565486801?fits=Cars+Year%3A2002%7CModel%3AAvensis&hash=item493d9068d1:g:e0cAAOSwJ~pkUIsS&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0CYqe2Mq2P8hGBvCECakN5cDgF1WRbwfdUsWTbnzCQQJuac%2FEH%2BeEklUcKhZjHG0X8dts58xWp8U3fUUT%2F%2FFeKwNelO1dAktjVpKy%2FvmS%2BH7qOiwZVL6TkzL1NBA3XgQOYCqkqdsUneKDBt3HDbhiD3wErn2J4panMbnFcARWipBHcTipFiNnVJeQdJSoQl%2F5J%2BU5QTVWe0435f1eaad0QiZtMpbuQ%2BLlQGooBNVCXJnlr0z%2FuoVVCvQftD6ux7M7frk1avX7OjGfJCxUXDO4b4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-Kr3-CUYg

While I have had a lubricant leak  from the CV gaiter on the drivers side the boots were intact.
I removed the clips, cleaned out the creamy fluid that had once been black, repacked the bearing and renewed the clips.
Having done that I would not want to try sticking a wrap around replacement boot into place.
New boots would be my choice, more work , but more certainty.

Quote from: Carolyn on June 10, 2023, 17:05The drive shafts will be the same on all the cars that use the 1ZZ engine/gearbox.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314565486801?fits=Cars+Year%3A2002%7CModel%3AAvensis&hash=item493d9068d1:g:e0cAAOSwJ~pkUIsS&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0CYqe2Mq2P8hGBvCECakN5cDgF1WRbwfdUsWTbnzCQQJuac%2FEH%2BeEklUcKhZjHG0X8dts58xWp8U3fUUT%2F%2FFeKwNelO1dAktjVpKy%2FvmS%2BH7qOiwZVL6TkzL1NBA3XgQOYCqkqdsUneKDBt3HDbhiD3wErn2J4panMbnFcARWipBHcTipFiNnVJeQdJSoQl%2F5J%2BU5QTVWe0435f1eaad0QiZtMpbuQ%2BLlQGooBNVCXJnlr0z%2FuoVVCvQftD6ux7M7frk1avX7OjGfJCxUXDO4b4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-Kr3-CUYg

Awesome- thank you! Guess I get to learn another new thing 😁

For reference, I'm using 1ZZ driveshafts on my 2ZZ gearbox.

Proper boot delivered- do you need any special tools to fit?

Got the radiator off finally.
Bottom mounts are looking okish- but they are stuck fast to the base... removal for measurement will result in destroying them.

Fitted the cooling fan cowl to the new radiator and placed it in situ- also put the charge cooler radiator in front of it to see what it looked like.

If anyone has any photos or info on how they've mounted their charge cooler radiators I'd be very grateful.




Then set about removing the remaining coolant pipes and wiring so that I could FINALLY get down to the clip that is holding the gear cable in place.

However I ran out of time to try and lift it- it's still stuck fast..