the good fight was won in the end
lets us what colour the overalls come out now.  

keep going its got to worth the finishing effort now   

I suggest that was more by perseverance than Divine help, with some some sweat and perhaps tears thrown in.

Quote from: Joesson on August  3, 2023, 10:21I suggest that was more by perseverance than Divine help, with some some sweat and perhaps tears thrown in.

It slotted in with one complete move.
I was very shocked.

Quote from: puma2 on August  3, 2023, 06:57 the good fight was won in the end
lets us what colour the overalls come out now.  

keep going its got to worth the finishing effort now   

Indeed! They're in the tumble dryer... probably shrunk but let's see...

Right- overalls changed but slightly smaller.. oh well maybe they'll stretch out a bit over time..

Put the starter motor on (torqued up) and connected the wires.
Put some of the rear and front engine Mount brackets on. (Torqued up too)

Was quite a nice relaxing time as I'm so pleased that the gearbox is on. I honestly feel like apart from the tuning, that's the biggest hurdle crossed. Obviously time will likely prove otherwise, but I'm getting very happy in my naïveté.

Maybe I'm too relaxed.. it's either that it or I enter a time warp when I get into the garage.

The sum total of just under an hours work: the front engine Mount (gearbox side) and the clutch cylinder bolts all torqued up.



I dunno.. I walk in, put the safety glasses on, turn the music on and start work and before I know it, tunes up!

I do spend a fair bit of time dropping bolts, adjusting the height of the engine etc.. oh well. I'm enjoying it!

Had a go at painting tonight. Wasn't great. Paint was clearly past its best, but ploughed on anyway, it kept coming out in splodges. I'm pretty sure I would have done better with a brush.

Anyway it's on.

Front and rear mounts fitted and all torqued up.




Was doing the gearbox Mount and found that the lower two bolts on the chassis side were going on squiff.

Have removed gearbox Mount for better access bit am thinking I'll have to recut the thread just to be safe.
Always nice when you get to use a special tool purchase more than once!

This evening's update. Finished work at 6, the kids were out so I went to the garage to try and recover from what felt like a disastrous afternoon of meetings.

 So chuffed with the tap and die set that I have. Managed to recut the bolt and the holes threads successfully.
Re mounted the gearbox and the chassis engine mounts:



This meant that I could finally move the engine hoist and the Jack out the way which is nice as it clears a lot of room to work.

It was then that I realised that one of the bolts for the engine balancer u shaped thingy has lost its thread.








Unfortunately my lovely tap and die set only goes up to 1.75 and these bolts are bigger than that.. so will have to find a solution prior to using the crane again.

Reattached the ground cable to the gearbox:



Then replaced the gearbox cables - aaaand discovered I've some how lost one of the little clips! Bah.. another thing to shop for.



Then moved onto replacing the driveshaft on drivers side:





And on the Passenger side:



I don't think I've made this much progress in quite a long time! Maybe I'm more of an evening hobby mechanic..

Started on the mounting of the manifold today!

Then realised the mating surface of the exhaust needed a clean up


And what luck! I found the clip thingy for the gear linkage! Hooray!

Then mounted the manifold

Then loosened the bolts in the turbo so I could clock it
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Aaand that's where I hit a snag.. The bolts on the manifold hit the edge of the turbo when I try and mount it.

Options are to either chop down the manifold bolt so it's shorter and then won't conflict, Orr.... I dunno?? any one know how you get these types of bolts out anyhow? There's no section on them to use as a grip.
[url="https://ibb.co/VSwH3k7"]

@jvanzyl
To remove such a bolt you need two nuts of the correct thread and two spanner's or similar.
Put the two nuts onto the bolt and holding the first nut in place with one spanner tighten the second nut onto it.
If done correctly and the bolt wants to come out, with spanner on the first nut undo the bolt!

Quote from: Joesson on August  8, 2023, 13:41@jvanzyl
To remove such a bolt you need two nuts of the correct thread and two spanner's or similar.
Put the two nuts onto the bolt and holding the first nut in place with one spanner tighten the second nut onto it.
If done correctly and the bolt wants to come out, with spanner on the first nut undo the bolt!

Thank you- I did try that with no success. I will try again later though.

Thoughts on chopping down the length??

Quote from: jvanzyl on August  8, 2023, 13:53Thank you- I did try that with no success. I will try again later though.

Thoughts on chopping down the length??

Put a lock washer between the two nuts. I take it the thing you are calling a bolt is a stud? 

A very judicious cut with a cutting disc and then dressing the cut end with a file will get you there, but I'd always prefer to work on a stud in a vice, after it has been extracted.

Quote from: Carolyn on August  8, 2023, 15:30Put a lock washer between the two nuts. I take it the thing you are calling a bolt is a stud? 

A very judicious cut with a cutting disc and then dressing the cut end with a file will get you there, but I'd always prefer to work on a stud in a vice, after it has been extracted.

Right- I've succeeded in extracting and cutting it down. Thank you!

This evening's update:
I extracted the stud and made it into "stumpy".





Buuuuuuut.... Then I realised I'd shortened the wrong stud..
and then when I swapped them over I managed to snap stumpys replacement!! Argh.. so that'll be me trying to extract that tiny little bit sticking out.. yay...


Anyway- pressed on with the fitting of the turbo with the exhaust side going to the drivers side.










And while it's "on".. and not fouling anything, the clearance might be about 3mm max on the engine side. That's not good is it surely?

I don't know what options there are other
-1. find some kind of spacer to insert between the manifold and the turbo so that it drops down further and "maybe" increases the clearance.

-2. Reclock the turbo back to the way it was and have the exhaust going out passenger side and have a job of working the compressed air and charge cooler back round to the passenger side.

-3. Try a different turbo manifold or turbo... not a fan of this.

Discovered a 4th option- shaving the block!

I just stress that the turbo moves freely (during blocking) and feels solidly attached to your manifold with zero movement. However I'm sure when the engine is rubbing and it's been used, that there is a possibility of the gap being closed and running the turbo against turbo block.

Bit of sucky luncthime.. spent all of it getting the broken stud out of the manifold and recutting the thread.
Not too happy with the thread, it holds but there is a bit of play in it.

I might change it to be a through bolt, or cut it from a 1.25 x8 to a 1.25 x10 (as I seem to have those studs hanging about for some reason). Otherwise I might add a bit of metal with the Tig and see if recutting that works out.

Quote from: jvanzyl on August  9, 2023, 13:59Bit of sucky luncthime.. spent all of it getting the broken stud out of the manifold and recutting the thread.
Not too happy with the thread, it holds but there is a bit of play in it.

I might change it to be a through bolt, or cut it from a 1.25 x8 to a 1.25 x10 (as I seem to have those studs hanging about for some reason). Otherwise I might add a bit of metal with the Tig and see if recutting that works out.

Unsure about why you needed to recut the thread and why there is now play in it.
Changing to a through bolt would be an option of course but then you will have drilled through the new manifold. From what you are saying am I correct in thinking that the manifold studs are in blind holes?
If so and you drill through for a bolt will you present yourself with another problem?
For instance will the necessary larger sockets have sufficient clearance to fit?
If you try to enlarge the stud from 8 to 10 mm you will be drilling and tapping into a blind hole. Not the easiest of procedures.
Drilling through would be an easier option, easier than removing a broken tap.
A welded repair I suggest is not the answer.

Quote from: Joesson on August  9, 2023, 20:47Unsure about why you needed to recut the thread and why there is now play in it.
Changing to a through bolt would be an option of course but then you will have drilled through the new manifold. From what you are saying am I correct in thinking that the manifold studs are in blind holes?
If so and you drill through for a bolt will you present yourself with another problem?
For instance will the necessary larger sockets have sufficient clearance to fit?
If you try to enlarge the stud from 8 to 10 mm you will be drilling and tapping into a blind hole. Not the easiest of procedures.
Drilling through would be an easier option, easier than removing a broken tap.
A welded repair I suggest is not the answer.

Basically I put the manifold in the vice, and drilled out the old stud. However the old stud was adhered to the threads (some how) and it became necessary to cut the threads again. It seems to be ok now. Thank you for the advice!

Been having a rethink on the orientation of the turbo having seen since pics of builds where the exhaust exit is on the drivers side.

It "might" work out to have it that way round, and could mean that my rear strut brace could be used to hold the barrel charge cooler. So the compressed air would exit the turbo, turn 90 degrees directly upwards towards the brace and hit the cooler. The onwards round to the throttle body.

The exhaust would do a 180 (mandrel) bend rearward to the cat, followed by another 180 below the cat to the muffler. This would then have the exhaust tip exiting the muffler on the passenger side, down and rearward hopefully in the stock position.

The intake for the turbo is something I need to think about, having it in this new orientation would mean I could place a pod filter now directly onto it, but it might be worthwhile routing it into the drivers side intake vent.

Gave fitting the waste gate a go.
Information that I have on the turbo is scant but I think it goes on something like this:



Note this pic and work were done prior to the brain wave in previous post.

Unfortunately I think I'm missing some bolts that hold the frame to the turbo. So I'm digging around trying to find some that might work..

Figured they needed a bit of a clean..

Now I just need to clean up the threads and possible shorten them..

Unable to get to the car at the moment but work kindly allows 3D design software on our machines...

Appreciate everyone's thoughts on the layout. Charge cooler is currently above the manifold- guessing I can move it to be on the gearbox side if heat is going to be an issue..

Just saving this here in case I utterly bomb out on the tuning:
https://www.tuningdevelopments.uk/product/e-manage-ultimate-mapping-session/

Have ordered intake and exhaust parts.
Only thing I didn't order was the muffler as I want to see where all the piping ends up at before I spend on that...

2x 180 3" mandrel bends
2x 90 3" mandrel bends
Couple of clamps just in case.
 already have the 3" cat and 3" flexi


1x 51mm-63mm silicone straight
1x 63mm straight alloy piping
1x 63mm 90 degree silicone
1x 63-71mm silicone straight
2x 71mm 90 degree silicone
1x 71mm maf housing tube
1x 60cm 71mm alloy piping
1x 60vm 71mm silicone straight

Edit- I'm attempting to keep the diameter of the tubing before and after the maf consistent (71mm).
But the reality I go from 53mm (turbo exit) to 63mm (barrel cooler) to 71mm for the throttle intake.. upon exiting the barrel(at 63mm) I'm immediately converting to 71mm so hopefully this will be ok in the end.

Managed to get all from eBay apart from maf housing which turned out to be Amazon. Now I wait...  oh yes I can find the suspension arms.

Edit: if I get a bunch of yodel notifications now I'm going to be upset.. anyone but them..

Nice progress with the build. I have seen the same orientation like in the drawings and it had a shield on top of the turbo. It was looking sweet to be honest. It was very small turbo but it was a very clean build. Shame that I dont have any pics to show you..