I made a "fat" feeler gauge (accurate for measuring up to 3cm):



And basically I wasn't too far off in my previous MAF height estimates.
Stock is about 17.5mm and aftermarket is about 21.5. Sooo that's 4mm to shave off of this:








Hmm... this might be a challenge.

In other news I need to buy new o rings for the injectors as my old injector's rings despite being renewed in 2017. (Ish) are rock solid..

Managed to check off another item today: adding the new gearbox oil.

Thought I'd just make good and sure the drain plug was done up, so attempted to undo then redo it up- only to find it wasn't quite empty!


Any excuse to have ANOTHER wipe down..


Anyway- my memories of this process previously were that it was painstakingly slow. However this time without a bumper, exhaust etc in the way it's rather quick and easy! Was getting slightly concerned towards the end of the 2nd bottle thinking that somehow I'd got the volume I needed wrong- but all good!

Refitted the battery and put it on charge so that I can test where to wire in the charge cooler pump. Really do think this is one of the best upgrades to these cars in terms of cost and weight saving. Added to which at fitting this thing was dead showing some thing like 9 or 10V and at leaving the garage after an hour it was showing more than 13V.



I then turned my unfortunate attention to draining the oil.




Readers note- this funnel will categorically NOT be able to sustain proper drainage rate of cold oil.

How bad can an oil drain go? Badly...

Quote from: jvanzyl on February 13, 2024, 13:47Refitted the battery and put it on charge so that I can test where to wire in the charge cooler pump. Really do think this is one of the best upgrades to these cars in terms of cost and weight saving.

And a silly big weight save in one go. Not many things you can só easily save 12 kgs on.

So after yesterdays blue roll consuming debacle (otherwise known as an oil drain) I received my new injector insulators:



Great I thought, let's get them installed and then test the front fuse box so I can find a tapping in point.

Actually this isn't actually true.
I checked the battery was all done.



And then inserted the key to get ready to do testing. Note I didn't even turn it to accessories.

What then happened next was a gurgling sound and a lot of petrol.
Immediately removed key.
Turns out the pump primes on key insertion... didn't know that.. and as keen readers will remember, I hadn't finished the injectors as I was waiting on the new insulators..so the fuel rail was injectorless.
Yay more blue roll!

So now we're at the point at which a clued up person would have started today's session (I.e pic no.1).

Popped the injectors in and tried again.








Only this time there was more of a hissing sound and injector 1 (far left) was spraying fuel.

Argh.. more blue roll.

Took it out and decided that the top o rings looked not as plump in profile compared to the others so changed them.








Readers note- these o rings aren't rated for fuel, it's purely for problem solving purposes and they'll be taken out promptly.

Anyway, I now know that I need 8mm ID rings.

Popped them back in..or at least tried to then discovered this in injector one:





I have no words.. maybe the o rings were fine and this was in there the whole time?? Argh..

Anyway put the fuel rail back on and tried again. This time thinking I wouldn't go through the faff of bolting it down in case there was another leak.

The good news is injector one didn't leak! The bad news was that it spat injector 3 out (because it wasn't bolted down genius) more blue roll.

So yeah... ordering more o rings and next time bolting it down...


EDIT: Found some nitrile o rings in a decent size pack 273 odd... there's lots of people out there selling 4 of these rings for the same price!
As these will likely take a few days to arrive, and I can't do anything really electrical till they get here that means that I'll likely have to turn my attention back to the oil drain and coolant feed for the turbo... eesh.. next learning curve.

You should be using Viton for petrol.

Quote from: Carolyn on February 14, 2024, 15:14You should be using Viton for petrol.

Is nitrile not an equivalent?

No it's not, but it should be ok,

Quote from: Carolyn on February 14, 2024, 16:29No it's not, but it should be ok,

Ok well I've found a multi pack of Viton on Amazon which kind of looks legit.. will see what turns up!
Thanks for the pointer.

A more successful day!
Refitted the injectors, turns out the o rings I had were nitrile anyway but they should do till the end of the month when the viton ones arrive.

Did a prime test and no leaks! Yay!



Next I moved onto the charge pump.
Added some colourful heat shrink because I could. I will order some red wire...



Anyway, I want to find a switched live from this front fuse box. And hopefully use a fuse tap to plug in.



But from my testing these fuses are not ignition live? 
Any suggestions on a suitable place to get ignition live?

EDIT: is using a spade connector into one of the empty relay slots "allowed"?

I believe I have found an ignition live in the alarm dongle thingy.
And I've probably stumbled onto what is common knowledge in that a black wire with a red stripe in our cars is ignition live and white with a black stripe is ground?

Progress update.

Charge cooler is now successfully wired in with an inline 5 amp fuse into the alarm dongle!    It comes on with ignition and the next step will be drilling a couple of holes in the top right of the frunk for the alarm and plugging it back in.




I also reconnected the oem coolant hoses in the front and tightened up the drain plugs on the centre ish pipes.

With the alarm then back in, and the frunk reconnected, I can actually close up the front in theory... not sure I want to just in case though..

Noooooooooo!! 

Is there any way in which this can be fixed without taking out the driveshaft and replacing the seal? 

@jvanzyl
While I've no specific experience of that seal on that shaft I've seen very similar and am aware that such a leak will not get better, with no attention, but will get progressively worse. That, unfortunately, does require removal of the shaft and a new seal, carefully replaced.

Quote from: Joesson on February 16, 2024, 20:37@jvanzyl
While I've no specific experience of that seal on that shaft I've seen very similar and am aware that such a leak will not get better, with no attention, but will get progressively worse. That, unfortunately, does require removal of the shaft and a new seal, carefully replaced.

Yup.. duly noted.
So back we go again.. thanks to @Carolyn & @shnazzle  for guidance and being there for me!

Progress or regression whichever way you call it..








Suspension arms undone, and hub nut undone.



Brand new oil but residue still in there

Just need to get the drive shaft out now.. Ergh..

You don't need to take it out of the hub.
It will pull back far enough.

Quote from: mr2garageswindon on February 19, 2024, 09:25You don't need to take it out of the hub.
It will pull back far enough.

Ah cheers. It wasn't a big deal to do, plus I guess this way I can be a bit more gentle/accurate with re-insertion later on? Any tips for gently putting the new seal in?

Todays update- took the driveshaft out



Then took out the oil seal, which didn't present any obvious damage??

Anyway, ordered a new passenger and drivers side(just in case) seal from Paul at TCB (no idea what his tag man's is?)


Then turned my attention to the oil drain, gently put together the beginnings of it. There is a slight angle on the attachment which I'll need to work out which way is best. I'll be trying to aim for the same spot on the sump that the TTE kit goes in.


In other news my short shifter arrived from SuperKlasse. I'll honestly never buy anything from them again. It took 6 months to deliver, it's missing some additional items that I paid for and they were crap at comms. Whatever.

Also took a wonder down to the local classic car restoration place in an effort to get some mill time on my MAF housing.. hopefully will be able to get a slot next week.

EDIT: curiosity got the better of me so I went down and added the coolant and oil lines as I've never actually seen them on:


EDIT: The oil line is backwards I think..










Now need to find out where/how to plumb into the coolant system and the oil feed.

TTE spot for oil drain:

Bit of a bitty not very satisfying day today..

Turned the oil feed line round the right way and it goes into the existing sandwich plate. Debating on weather to retain oil temp sensor or not..
Think I definitely want to keep pressure though.

The line reaches fine, but I think I'm going to need to make some kind of bracket to hold it in place so it doesn't contact the drive shaft or rest on the exhaust stuff at all.








Have identified the coolant pipes I'm going to intercept. Still working out the the routing from the turbo though.. it's not great.

Been mulling over the oil drain...
Based on the angle of attack going from the existing drain which is about a 16mm (outside diameter) pipe to the sump, I think I want a basic sump drain that sticks directly out and ideally with the same dimensions and rolled lip that is found on the turbo drain pipe.

Had a good look and measured up the pipe from the engine block that I'll be intercepting for coolant.



It's about a 17mm pipe (outside diameter) and the current coolant lines I have for the turbo are 12mm.. so need to convert between the two dimensions some how.

Are coolant connections on turbos omnidirectional? Can't tell which side is in or out...

So I've found what I want in terms of oil drain. Turns out that although the TTE guide specifies a straight adapter, the sump actually has an angle of about 12 or 13 degree downward so in fact it would be ideal if I could find a 45 degree or slightly less adapter to plumb in..

What I want is this:

https://www.mambatek.com/en/products/diy-turbo-oil-return-drain-pipe-adapter-fitting-45deg-58-barb

But I resent how much it'll cost me to get it.. how the flip does it cost that much!!???

Would honestly appreciate anyone's knowledge of where I can find this kind of component cheaper or if I'm going be forced to make up an NPT line. I've been googling away to no avail :-/

EDIT: it's looking like an el cheapo (not) oil drain kit from that will hopefully have decent NPT fittings is on the cards..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186246191782?itmmeta=01HQ3S09V66FV7WY7TQXW2CXCT&hash=item2b5d235aa6:g:UYMAAOSwGgFlngkm&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4LYAiO3eAQ%2BPJlcDoatNkSnqAzNr98bt7x%2FrGPOzIELNl1%2BbhdvqbcqMrZQqGnhoejNiAhTVGJLXlevcCj4EnGTb%2FxUFiIk%2FSe8vMCC92Xd8cTh2cZCBhD1IUMt%2BUvtHTogJIyx08q1pST0AEIafmvAU0WKKIRsKEq9Q02HFZnP%2BgudkcLtfb0baEwuUCCuCaiTzQQqCiJ6l85DdxfR2rI%2BdG1gi7wu6uC8Aa4ddzeV7RP9ZVR%2BrJGccxVjR3MhKjHODrGID%2F1x9NDVla923OFQmVILnXgts2pH4hkfV9poi%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9adgfm4Yw

EDIT2: Just realised that you still need the sump adapter for these kits which is again another £10... this is nuts. It's basically just under £40 to go NPT or £50 for a rubber hose and mambatek rip off friggin angled sump adapter.. bah...

@jvanzyl

Have you considered an Aeroquip UK supplier such as:

https://hoses.co.uk/product-category/hydraulics/hydraulic-hose-fittings/eaton-aeroquip-hydraulic-hose-fittings/

Quote from: Joesson on February 20, 2024, 19:52@jvanzyl

Have you considered an Aeroquip UK supplier such as:

https://hoses.co.uk/product-category/hydraulics/hydraulic-hose-fittings/eaton-aeroquip-hydraulic-hose-fittings/

Thanks for this- that's quite an exhaustive site!

I spent quite some time on the sump attachment on my turbo oil drain as had smokey turbo issues right from the off, i think the TTE fitment is poor due to the angle as you have found and why many experience turbo smoking issues, i made a bolt on adaptor to make sure it was downhill all the way into the sump which cured the smoking turbo.....not the gummed up rings and leaky stem seals smoking though!
 
I should have a picture somewhere of what i made which was a simple 2 bolt flange with a tube welded on at angle that i bolted to the sump will have a look when im back home.