Ive found it on my build thread see post #86 onwards from below link:)  hope this helps, i couldnt find anything i was happy with as all had an uphill section hence making this.

https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?topic=68357.75

here is what i made...

Quote from: thetyrant on February 21, 2024, 11:36I spent quite some time on the sump attachment on my turbo oil drain as had smokey turbo issues right from the off, i think the TTE fitment is poor due to the angle as you have found and why many experience turbo smoking issues, i made a bolt on adaptor to make sure it was downhill all the way into the sump which cured the smoking turbo.....not the gummed up rings and leaky stem seals smoking though!
 
I should have a picture somewhere of what i made which was a simple 2 bolt flange with a tube welded on at angle that i bolted to the sump will have a look when im back home.

Ah! Excellent advice thank you! Would greatly appreciate the photo.

I'm slowly shuffling closer to welding on whatever is needed but very much in agreement with you on the need for an angle, just haven't decided on/ figured out how to achieve it

Weather is rubbish here so investigated the possibility of buying some 5/8" pipe, rolling a bead on it and welding it in at the correct angle for downhill drainage.

Turns out I can't find any 5/8" locally nor is my bead roller able to handle such a small size. That solves that then.

Decided to turn my attention to the charge cooler barrel bracket.
It needed reinforcing on the sides and then I noticed a slight bend on the mounting hole that goes to the engine block.









Very happy with the thickness reinforcement.





Next steps will be actually painting this one as it's on display.

Quote from: jvanzyl on February 21, 2024, 14:16Ah! Excellent advice thank you! Would greatly appreciate the photo.

I'm slowly shuffling closer to welding on whatever is needed but very much in agreement with you on the need for an angle, just haven't decided on/ figured out how to achieve it

No problem see my 2nd post for details/link and pictures

Quote from: thetyrant on February 21, 2024, 11:40Ive found it on my build thread see post #86 onwards from below link:)  hope this helps, i couldnt find anything i was happy with as all had an uphill section hence making this.

https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?topic=68357.75

here is what i made...

THANK YOU for bringing this valuable info! I'm going to read your thread tonight to see whatever other little gems I've missed!

I see you didn't need a beaded end (possibly due to length of pipe) I'm going to emulate this as best I can.

Quote from: jvanzyl on February 21, 2024, 14:32THANK YOU for bringing this valuable info! I'm going to read your thread tonight to see whatever other little gems I've missed!

I see you didn't need a beaded end (possibly due to length of pipe) I'm going to emulate this as best I can.

I didnt bother beading pipe as its not under pressure just a gravity drain into sump thats why a good angle and path of pipework is so important, some conversions ive seen on other cars where they cant use a gravity drain due to space/turbo location use a scavenge pump and i considered this as a belt and braces fix but with that angled fitting i was happy it did the job nicely.
.

Quote from: thetyrant on February 21, 2024, 15:43I didnt bother beading pipe as its not under pressure just a gravity drain into sump thats why a good angle and path of pipework is so important, some conversions ive seen on other cars where they cant use a gravity drain due to space/turbo location use a scavenge pump and i considered this as a belt and braces fix but with that angled fitting i was happy it did the job nicely.

Got it- I'm going down the self fabrication route same as you. That driveshaft is very much in the way! Going to work my round in the same sort fashion you have, will try and make a bracket that attaches to the engine block that holds things in place.

Carried on with bracketry my new favourite thing. I'm finally getting some nice colours out, seems a bit of a shame to paint over things sometimes..

Work is a bit mental at the mo so not getting much of a lunch break..

Enlarged the lower bracket hole that will provide additional support directly to the engine block.

Not entirely sure on the thread as my standard bolt size starts going in then gets very tight set 5mm.. either way it's an "add on" and not the primary load bearing point.

Started with a layer of primer then will do the base 1D0 colour.

Might get lucky and get this done tonight.









Apart from that, my Viton rings, metal tube, 5mm bar and coolant tube size adapters have all arrived so I can do those things as time allows. Still waiting on the driveshaft seal from TCB but that'll hopefully be here soon.

Just adding layers of clear coat now.. I suspect I didn't mix the 1D0 enough but I'm not massively bothered.

Turns out my driveshaft oil seals have gotten lost in the post. Paul at TCB has kindly sent out a new set.

I've decided to push ahead with fitting the new subframe and I'll figure out the under tray attachments somehow.






So this car has been up on ramps for at least a year now I think.. bit scary to see the amount of moisture just sat in the attachment bolt areas..

Carried on with test fitting the "kanjo"..



The powder coating is definitely a factor, the tolerances around a lot of the gaps don't allow for it in some cases.











In not entirely sure what to do with these...



Then added the rest of the exhaust so I can see what I'm dealing with.. it looks like the turbo coolant lines are going to have to go under the gearbox and then up to the junction where the TTE manual says to tap in.

As a side note- anyone looking to do a V6 conversion and not wanting to "notch" their subframe, this might be the way to go.







Motivation is a bit sucky at the moment, work is a bit crushing at the moment.
Will hopefully be able to keep up the current pace of lunchtimes but will have to see.

Managed to sneak in 10n mins in between kids tutoring, beavers and finishing work..

Found a nice use for the kanjo holes. Basically I can route the coolant feed and return through it! Added on my size converters and next I'll add on the next size up pipe to go to the block and existing feed pipes.. I'm trying to avoid the exhaust because of the heat, I do have some gold tape or I'll see if there is some kind of "sleeve" I can get slide over them.

Have a look at Exoracing, might give you some ideas.

Quote from: Call the midlife! on February 28, 2024, 20:36Have a look at Exoracing, might give you some ideas.

Excellent, thank you!

@jvanzyl

https://www.rotax-owner.com/en/general-tech-discussion/9746-coolant-hose-heat-protection-tube

Quote from: Joesson on February 28, 2024, 22:04@jvanzyl

https://www.rotax-owner.com/en/general-tech-discussion/9746-coolant-hose-heat-protection-tube

An excellent thread thank you @Joesson  if I were needing more than my meagre 1.5m odd I think it would definitely be worth while making my own, I've still got to wrap the exhaust so I'll be buying some heat wrap anyway, but comparing by adding the cost of HT silicone and the aluminium flashing and the basic time taken/mess vs buying a relatively expensive sleeve for the length is probably going to find me doing the latter. Good info to know though! Thank you!

Looks like good progress, disappointing on the Kanjo not being a perfect fit for what it costs

Turbo coolant lines dont need to be long or go anywhere near gearbox so not sure where you have seen that ?  on the TTE kit it taps into the small pipe on back of head near where turbo sits, i think its heater core feed line, ive copied page below from TTE install and its how my SP kit was plumbed in hth

Quote from: thetyrant on February 29, 2024, 09:46Looks like good progress, disappointing on the Kanjo not being a perfect fit for what it costs

Turbo coolant lines dont need to be long or go anywhere near gearbox so not sure where you have seen that ?  on the TTE kit it taps into the small pipe on back of head near where turbo sits, i think its heater core feed line, ive copied page below from TTE install and its how my SP kit was plumbed in hth

Thanks! the reason for the convoluted route is because the connectors going into the turbo are quite rigid and so I'm sort of forced to drop down a bit in order to accommodate them. I'm sure the perfect connector is out there that extends them away from the turbo to allow for a more direct line of attack..

So I took off the existing coolant line going into the t-piece and Ergh...




Wire brushed down the outside and silicone sprayed it to fit my tubing over it but to no avail. There is zero expansion capacity to make it over either the t-piece or the engine block connector! So I've been forced to chop the existing piece in two and go in via that.. I'll likely get some more specific coolant hose and redo that.. something with a teensy bit more flex than what I have got.



I then set about putting the viton o rings on the injectors.
For whatever reason I've somehow got an multi pack that has provided me with either side of the size I want due to the thickness of the rings.. so I put three of the smaller size on each to compensate. Next steps will be pressure test it and check for leaks..





Oh and then then I knocked the whole box over and I had 168 on rings scattered everywhere... something to work on fixing during a boring meeting.

More frustration and weirdness.

Ok so the weird part. When testing the fuel priming by simply inserting the key into the ignition the radiator fan is now turning on... errgh.. anyone know why it would do that? I've got a variety of grounds and maybe one or two sensors unplugged in the engine bay..and the battery keeps getting disconnected as part of my injector testing.

I do remember an awful lot of "clicking" sounding when doing previous tests coming from the engine bay.. i figured it was a relay that wasn't getting the signal it wanted due to something being disconnected and that it would be "ok..."


Frustration- my idea of the smaller tripled up o rings failed the pressure test (rapidly losing patience and running out of blue roll with this business) so I tried some other nitrile based o rings that are fuel rated (apparently). 1st attempt failed, 3rd attempt with a 1.9mm width o ring passed!

Managed to get an hour to carry on.
Put in my new coolant line that was flexible enough to get onto the pipe ends


Also mounted the barrel with the finished bracket. And yes I know the coolant line is touching the exhaust, I'll be finessing everything later when I've got everything in.


Then took off the exhaust and subframe so I get nicely at the driveshaft seal.












I think it's in.. don't know if my eyes are playing tricks on me and I think it's ever so slightly not exactly the same level all around the seal..,

  keep going love the right up and the work you put into this  

Quote from: jvanzyl on March  2, 2024, 21:00I think it's in.. don't know if my eyes are playing tricks on me and I think it's ever so slightly not exactly the same level all around the seal..,

If it's not dead square to the shaft it will wear out quickly.  If you have flat headed punch, I'd go round it tapping gently to make sure it's all the way in.

Plus 1 on the increased wear if the seal is not aligned.
I believe that is a machined edge on the seal housing, in which case the seal depth could be measured with a depth gauge. My non electronic vernier has a facility for that.

Quote from: puma2 on March  3, 2024, 09:21 keep going love the right up and the work you put into this  

Thanks man, appreciate the support! It does make a difference!

Quote from: Carolyn on March  3, 2024, 10:07If it's not dead square to the shaft it will wear out quickly.  If you have flat headed punch, I'd go round it tapping gently to make sure it's all the way in.

Quote from: Joesson on March  3, 2024, 10:08Plus 1 on the increased wear if the seal is not aligned.
I believe that is a machined edge on the seal housing, in which case the seal depth could be measured with a depth gauge. My non electronic vernier has a facility for that.

Thank you both @Carolyn & @Joesson - I went back round and a round with a flat ended punch that was as fat as I could get in there and I'm definitely happier with it.





Then popped the driveshaft in with super care..



Aaaand refilled the oil in the gearbox



But for once was disappointed to have a clean bit of blue towel 



Buuut as life is kind sometimes I had about 100ml left over from the first fill still in the bottle!

Hooray! 


Then set about reassembling the subframe and suspension arms.. so I think I'm now back where I was a couple of weeks ago! Will monitor the area under gearbox to make sure there's no leaks..





Next up is the oil pan I guess..