@jvanzyl said:

Will monitor the area under gearbox to make sure there's no leaks..

You may or may not be aware that there is unlikely to be any leakage from the new seal unless it has been incorrectly installed or damaged during installation. Unlikely. Your blue paper stock should not be called upon.
Such a seal/ shaft arrangement can typically leak in service, while the shaft is rotating and if it starts to leak will progressively worsen.

Put the rear engine mount on, not entirely sure what's going on here as both my front and rear engine mounts are new and have under 10k miles on them!!



I had to really lift and shove the thing forward to get the hole to match up. I will examine the front mount to see if it's taking undue strain.

Then turned my attention to the oil drain system..



Plan is to make my own attachments from the turbo as well as to the sump.

Further work on oil drainage...



Eyeballed a 30 degree angle, plan is to see how this works against the sump going up towards turbo.

Got my MAF housing back. Just need to make a 1mm (if that) gasket and I'm in theory good.

Fitted the MAF and plugged in all wires apart from the O2 sensors and had a play with the routing of the coolant hoses.
So visually it's largely done apart from smaller items like catch cans and boost wiring and vacuum blocks etc quite a lot of space still in there!






And as an added bonus with all the wires now plugged in my radiator fan isn't coming on! Yay! 🙌

Started trying to get oil sump off... have given up and purchased a laser sump removal tool..

And in other news Paul at Woodsport has said he's working in the brackets for the under tray which is great to hear.

@jvanzyl  said: purchased a laser sump removal tool.

Rather 007 James Bondish!

Quote from: jvanzyl on March  6, 2024, 16:53Started trying to get oil sump off... have given up and purchased a laser sump removal tool..

And in other news Paul at Woodsport has said he's working in the brackets for the under tray which is great to hear.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/harris-continental-filling-knives-3-piece-set/41601?ref=SFAppShare
I use a similar set to these and just tap them into the join to break the seal, once you get a couple in you can gently lever with a broad, flat bladed tool and then move the scraper along again.

I buy Stanley knife blades by the hundred in a dispenser.  Very useful.  I use a light hammer to knock a few into the sealant around the sump. Once there are a few in place, in 'strategic' positions the sump will pry off.  You might bend the lip a bit, but it will knock back straight easily enough

Quote from: Call the midlife! on March  6, 2024, 17:41https://www.screwfix.com/p/harris-continental-filling-knives-3-piece-set/41601?ref=SFAppShare
I use a similar set to these and just tap them into the join to break the seal, once you get a couple in you can gently lever with a broad, flat bladed tool and then move the scraper along again.

Quote from: Carolyn on March  6, 2024, 17:52I buy Stanley knife blades by the hundred in a dispenser.  Very useful.  I use a light hammer to knock a few into the sealant around the sump. Once there are a few in place, in 'strategic' positions the sump will pry off.  You might bend the lip a bit, but it will knock back straight easily enough

Thanks both! Will see how I get on with the laser tool and then adopt your methods.

Today I tried to finish off the waste gate.. but for some unknown reason the thread is a "27" or a "0.9" and normal nuts that I have just aren't! It is a bit of an unknown so I'm tempted to just get a holset one from stavtech.




I then turned my attention to what will realistically be the last thing overall in the project to get done... monitoring and control.. trying not to freak out..

Great start to the morning!
Paul has sent over the brackets that should mean I get to fit my nice under tray!



They're only about 1kg each!

Iirc you do have a "special" undertray but I can't recall whether its function is similar to the OE undertray, or to act as a sump guard, which is what those brackets appear to be designed for!

Quote from: Joesson on March  8, 2024, 12:29Iirc you do have a "special" undertray but I can't recall whether its function is similar to the OE undertray, or to act as a sump guard, which is what those brackets appear to be designed for!

I would say its supposed function is to drive more air through the engine bay and look good whilst doing it. It's also got diffusers...

The new brackets are to create oem mounting points, however I've just tried them out and for whatever reason I'm either mounting them wrong or there's another problem as it's all of by a few inches on either side. I'm sure it's my fault and I've somehow got them backwards or something.. but I've emailed Paul to sanity check myself anyway.




In other news the laser tool is flipping WORTH IT. From being in the wrapper to having the sump on the floor it was less than 15 mins.

lol- all sorted. Had a good conversation with Paul and we've figured out that I have connections for a facelift version! No matter, I will drill the extra holes and weld on some captive nuts to suit. Just glad it got figured out as I was concerned at my ability to fit something so basic! Phew..

Spent today's session cleaning up the oil pan surface... 95% done on the pan. Next up is the block..

Quote from: jvanzyl on March 11, 2024, 13:04Spent today's session cleaning up the oil pan surface... 95% done on the pan. Next up is the block..

I remember doing mine when I swapped the sumps from the turbo donor to the race car - horrible job

What else I remember is the donor engine bottom end being clean as a whistle whereas the race car looked a bit scorched / orange around the crank! Runs great though!
I'm pulling the donor engine and am planning on rods and pistons but that's for another day (hopefully before I blow the current one)

Quote from: tets on March 11, 2024, 19:10I remember doing mine when I swapped the sumps from the turbo donor to the race car - horrible job

What else I remember is the donor engine bottom end being clean as a whistle whereas the race car looked a bit scorched / orange around the crank! Runs great though!
I'm pulling the donor engine and am planning on rods and pistons but that's for another day (hopefully before I blow the current one)

Interesting! Having been through it do you think it's worthwhile just buying a new sump for £35? My one seems ok, bits of rust here and there though..

Quote from: jvanzyl on March 11, 2024, 19:18Interesting! Having been through it do you think it's worthwhile just buying a new sump for £35? My one seems ok, bits of rust here and there though..

only reason I swapped was the oil drain was already welded into the donors sump and it looked new - tight Yorkshireman and all that I'd probably clean yours up 

Aah ok fair enough!

Cleaned to the block side:





And then gathered myself for the next stage which is cutting a hole in my sump and welding on a perfectly angled bit of tube..

Need to read a bit more about what to do on the inside of the sump as where I thought I was going to cut lands me smack dab in the middle of the baffle..

This is where/how i brought mine in, pretty much same location as TTE but with my custom angled fitting, i made mine bolt on/off incase i needed to change it but was perfect, due to angle it meant i needed to notch out a bit of the edge off flange as per thread i linked earlier

So yesterday was an utterly horrible one in terms of progress with holes being drilled that were to large, work benches burning and just generally unsatisfactory progress.





Today I've tried a different pulse width, and I'm slowly recovering.












Yes it's very much over welded but I'm going to weld it then grind it down to what I want as that's what's working for me.

More welding and grinding has resulted in the following which whilst butt ugly is very strong and "oil tight" and I'm quite confident is sticking out at the required 30 degrees. Didn't get a photo of everything ground down before paint but it's all nice a clear.









Next up is the oil return from the turbo..

Wire brushed, kurusted then painted the oil pan.. looking forward to popping it back on to the block.

Sooo let's see.
Washed out the sump several times then tried a test fitting and erm... no idea what happened but it's not going at the angle I thought it would..



So I decided to lob off a section at 45 degrees and weld on a straight piece...
This is where the life lesson of looking at the dials of the gas bottle vs just doing a light "feel" of "is it fully open?" was learned...
What you're looking at below is actually the rebuilt version of the pipe as I basically melted straight through it as I didn't realise the gas was not on..



So next time will be trying to weld on the upwards section again.

And then I had a go at dog legging the waste gate actuator arm ... the benefit of having a TIG and being slightly versed in how to achieve "too much heat".. basically meant I could heat a very specific section and then bend. Still have to see if it's right though.