Fixing My molten Roadster

[markiii]

Well after tehe issues encountered at Anglesea I though it might be interesting to document the results of fixing my melting issues.

I'll update this thread as I go.

more to come.

[Anonymous]

What melted? And why?

I remember when Daz had an issue with his apexi turbo and melted all the plastics near,around and including the SMT fluid tank. Made a bit of a mess.   s:( s:(

[aaronjb]

What melted? And why?

Keep up lad!  s;) s;)

 m http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic. ... 826#127826 m

[Anonymous]

What melted? And why?

Keep up lad!  s;) s;)

 m http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic. ... 826#127826 m

  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:    s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  Sorry not got alot of time at moment to read all the threads.

Search man search   s:P s:P

[Tem]

Don't worry, I never check the Events-area either, cause there's not much interest to people outside UK.  s:? :? s:?  I read his post about the issue on SC though..

[markiii]

right first update

I've not dropped the manifold/turbo yet as I want to change the oil whilst I can still run the engine

However spent moday getting together all teh parts that I need to replace

so far not as bad as anticipated.

Mint rear bumper (needs painting)
rear upper grill
Suspension top mount dust cover

All in £40, cheers Adam,  s:D s:D  

popped of to MrT for a new release cable and clips for the rear deck, surprisingly only came to £18   s:D s:D  

part numbers for those interested

T69307-17080
T90467-13012
T90959-01369

current cost less than £70

I've also ordered a load of high heat protective tape to do the o2 harnesses and other vulnerable wiring.

More updates soon.

[kanujunkie]

 s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  

Hip, Hip, Hooray for Adam!

not looking too bad now Mark, you should be ready for the dyno day now, even if your ass is a different colour from stock!

[Slacey]

not looking too bad now Mark, you should be ready for the dyno day now, even if your ass is a different colour from stock!

You'd better be, it's over a month away!

[markiii]

time for another update

Stu spent this morning helping me dismantle everything and remove teh manifold.

not good news.

1. Manifold-Turbo was secured with studs which had sheared and will need drilling out  s:-( :-( s:-(

2. Flexipipe to turbo has snapped where teh flexipipe welds in. So that will need fixing/replacing

3. manifold isn't wearing to well. I knew it needed recoating but the welds aren't wearing very well.

Hopefuly stu will have pics later on.

Sean, the pics you posted on Sc ref your manifold aren't far off mine so if you can post them here. ta

not a good day  s:-( :-( s:-(

[Anonymous]

 s:shock: :shock: s:shock:

This doesn't bode well for me or Tommy...  s:( s:(


Got any pics of those sheared studs, Mark?

[markiii]

hopefull Stu has but I will take some soon.

I don't understand where teh tearing force has come from to shear them especially as teh other 2 would prevent twisting.

flexi pipe, I suspect Jays recent comment ref the flexi pipe breaking if your don't beef up teh engine mounts

shame he only mentions it now and not 12 months ago, also a shame it's not in teh manual for new purchasers  s:-( :-( s:-(

Tom changed exhaust and you have kirks mounts so hopefully you can avoid that.

However I would be concerned ref the studs, and teh condition of you manifold in general. you NEED that Turbo brace ASAP

I spent a good 15 mins working out if I could afford to drop another 4K and simply buy teh TTE

not finacially viable though so we struggle. on.

I am however less than impressed with long term durability of this kit

[Anonymous]

Put it this way: After seeing what has happened to yours and Sean's cars recently, I won't be driving mine again without a brace on it.

[spit]

I thought you were braced Dan  s:? :? s:?

Bit of a mystery how you'd get the movement to shear 2 studs only Mark. All I can think of is that the 2 pairs/holes weren't exactly parallel, so 2 have been under extra sideways strain since install?

You've got me worried now - the Hass looks so much more industrial in construction than the C2. Must do a checkover. I think Kirk mounts are going to be a must-do though.

[Anonymous]

No brace for me, was on my list of things for Thor to do but I forgot.  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

Here's hoping I haven't paid the price for my forgetfulness...




Sorry Mark, BOT  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

[aaronjb]

Damn Mark  s:( s:(  Not good.

If you can't get those studs out - remember the place that did the manifolds will spark erode the studs for £40 cash. Granted they're in Poole, but I'm sure I can get your manifold down there & back somehow  s;) s;)

For the flexi section - 3S seem to have a good supplier of interlocking (solid segment inner) flexi sections in various sizes and lengths, and can get them welded in for a decent enough price.. Worth thinking about, anyhow.

But yes.. long term reliability of the Hass is not looking so hot right now  s:( s:(  (er, pardon the bad pun!)

[kanujunkie]

sorry guys, no pictures other than the bit that mark didn't mention,the right light



Marks forgotten that were like a couple of old women when it comes to things, we spent the 3 1/2 hrs of stripping it, gossiping and bitching and as such forgot to take any pictures  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  the bolts at the back have literally snapped, my thoughts are not that the flanges were drilled offset to each other as Ste suggested but that the thermal expansion of the metal as it ran lean literally snapped the studs off, it arguable as to wether it had happened recently or not as the front surface of what was left of the stud already had corrosion on it and more than i'd expect in a week. personally guys i'd now say that this had happened before Anglesey!

As for the rest of the manifold, well it looks as though theres another issue. At anglesey, Sean asked me to take some pictures of what appeared to be cracking in the seam welds but we couldn't see what was causing it as the ceramic coating was covering the area. Well on Marks one the coating has come away badly and you have a clear view of a potential issue. Thankfully in a way the ceramic coating protected most of the metal allowing the cracks to corrode and expose themselves. They appear to dissapear into the metal welds!!!!!  again my personal view is that they didn't clean up the metal before welding and its led to a weak spot that has started to crack, my expectations will be that it WILL seperate if given enough time and unless Hass improved there quality control, so will Dans and Tommy's. This is however fixable, were going to spend a few hours on Marks and investigate this a bit more by carefully grinding down one of the welds so that we can see how far the cracks go in. at the end of the day though it looks like a cut, clean and reweld job, but its something that just shouldn't happen.

watch this space i guess

[Slacey]

Sean, the pics you posted on Sc ref your manifold aren't far off mine so if you can post them here. ta

And here they are - I have PM'd Spyderchat's resident metals expert for his opinion - I'll update when I have more info.

[Anonymous]

My opinion is that theres too much load through the relatively thin walled manifold. It has cracked at the weld due to local hardening of the metal that ocurrs during the welding process. The weight of the turbo and the fact that the turbo flange is beefy in comparison to the tube its welded to results in a large stress concentration factor at the change in material hardness at the weld. As the the forces generated by the turbo "bouncing up and down"  are in effect being disipated through this tube the result is failure at the weld. If you look at the amount of bracing on the stock manifold in comparison to the Haas it's obvious that more bracing is needed to support the weight of the turbo - which we kinda know now! I strongly suggest that other Haas owners check their manifolds and reinforce ASAP  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[LeeUK]

There is one other solution,  ask Gas of C2 power if he will do a GB for all Hass owners for a run of his latest cast iron manifolds.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[markiii]

There is one other solution,  ask Gas of C2 power if he will do a GB for all Hass owners for a run of his latest cast iron manifolds.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

daft question but are you saying they are actually CAST?

[LeeUK]

daft question but are you saying they are actually CAST?

The turbo will come with the support bracket yes. And cast iron manifold.

  s:D s:D

[kanujunkie]

could be your answer guys, would save a lot of hassle, but is the adaptor plate the same and is the header the same length??

[spit]

could be your answer guys, would save a lot of hassle, but is the adaptor plate the same and is the header the same length??

We're awaiting the pics Stu, and I'm told I'll need to mod my DP angle when I switch, but on the basis that its similar to the C2 welded log, there will be some differences to Hass: notably - turbo take-off is central rather than offset, and (because of this) no O2 sensors in the manifold.

Adapter plate will fit the Garrett - same unit - albeit a reverse orientation between C2 and Hass. And height/angle will of course be different. So feasible but not without issues.

I suppose if he is willing, and its viable, Gas could get hold of a retired Hass Manifold as a template for a new casting? I'm not sure how many C2 casts he is planning on shifting, but they're very reasonably priced  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[aaronjb]

albeit a reverse orientation between C2 and Hass

ISTR that the T3 flange is symmetrical, so that, at least, isn't an issue  s;) s;)

One of us (thinking of Me, Stu, Dan, Mark & Lee) really needs to learn to weld - fixing up those changes would be an absolute doddle with some T304 tube if someone could weld..  s;) s;)

[LeeUK]

Shhhhhh........... Aaron quite down man!   s:shock: :shock: s:shock: