Can the MR2 fly?!

Started by Anonymous, March 27, 2006, 23:25

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philster_d

#25
yeah front left

edward.carter

#26
Quote from: "spit"Roo, Edward et al.

Located some rear spat pics, scribbled on by Markiii on S'chat......


The two screw-bolts in the wheel arch fasten through the plastic into a meccano-type metal bracket on the other side, so you'll need a couple of those too.

bracket 58747-17020.
RH spat 58741-17020
LH spat 58742-17020
right pretty sure i dont have those, presume the front are similar?  so on my very late 2000 i only have the strip under the front bumper!

can anyone explain how the rear ones work? i see if you have those in front of the front wheels how this may stop it going light, at speed. but how do rear ones affect it?

spit

#27
Confused me too Edward, but I assume the rears use the same principle to help keep the rear planted.

Any aerodynamic gurus here?

ps the S'chat article also posts a virtual wind tunnel pressure image without spats.... no idea what it means, but here y'go  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  
1999 MR-S with added C2 POWΣR

Humbled recipient of the Perry Byrnes memorial trophy (2007 & 2011)

kanujunkie

#28
think of it in terms of drag rather than pressure zones
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

philster_d

#29
So realy you just need tyres like I had on my old racing bike

kanujunkie

#30
eeeeeeerrrrrrr, go on then try it  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

No, your trying to drag the car down to the road by creating a lower pressure than above the car
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

Anonymous

#31
Has anyone got a photo of the front air dam as I know I aint got the spats, but not sure about the airdam, when I look under my bumper it is completely smooth, no rubber running the full width or anything.

Mine's a 2000 X Reg.

Cheers

Rich

spit

#32
No photos as yet but I'll get some from my local showroom when I've got a moment (unless someone else does it first)....

..... but from your description (and car age) you're without.

The rubber is set back about 3 inches from the front edge of the bumper and protrudes downwards about an inch (in old money!) so you'd certainly know if it was there.

Ste
1999 MR-S with added C2 POWΣR

Humbled recipient of the Perry Byrnes memorial trophy (2007 & 2011)

Liz

#33
Having just got out from under the Porker after changing my inner wheel arch liner (the old one disintergrated last week after an argument with a speed hump) I have discovered that the spats are missing from the front of my car, I wondered why it had been feeling wandery, I remembered this thread and it could explain why. The wheel arch liner that arrived has very handy screw holes for the spats to go in, but no spats.  After spending £91 on an expensive large bit of plastic I am a bit annoyed about  now having to pay out for these...  Boxa.net would of told me to go to the local Porsche garage   s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
ex-TTE Turbo, now Freelander Sport, its not a car its a Landrover!

spit

#34
Liz, It just shows that they do make a difference eh? Amazing what an inoffensive piece of plastic can add to the handling  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  Looks like more spending for you....ahhh the joys of Porker ownership  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Back to the '2 (  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  ), and thanks to Gazz for letting me crawl around on his driveway in the pelting rain, here's the picture of the front lip as promised. Top arrow is the plastic lip, bottom arrow is one of the wheel spats.


Gazz was gracious enough to let me drive his car. In relation to handling, his car is incredibly sure-footed compared to mine. A lot of reasons for this, but I reckon the lip contributes by helping to root the front end.

As for the back end, I'll pick that up in the TTET buyers' poll thread. I've pledged not to swear, so give me a moment to search for the appropriate superlatives  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  "Wow" is probably a good place to start.

Ste
1999 MR-S with added C2 POWΣR

Humbled recipient of the Perry Byrnes memorial trophy (2007 & 2011)

loadswine

#35
Question, do you think the Toyota, or other bodykits with a fron lip do a similar job?
Logic says yes, but I'm not an aerodynamicist, or as informed as some of our members.
No Roadster any more, Golf 7.5 GTi Performance

kanujunkie

#36
Quote from: "loadswine"Question, do you think the Toyota, or other bodykits with a fron lip do a similar job?
Logic says yes, but I'm not an aerodynamicist, or as informed as some of our members.

pass, if you've got about 50K lyeing around we could always do a bit of research in a wind tunnel and find out, even a bolt head can make a difference, hence why all rivets on planes are countersunk
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

loadswine

#37
I'll stick with logic then Stu, its cheaper.
No Roadster any more, Golf 7.5 GTi Performance

Anonymous

#38
Thanks for posting the picture. I took a look at mine today and i have the front wheel spats but don't have the central spoiler strip or any spats at the back. Mine is a late 01 car on 51 plate (euro import)

I do try and keep the front storage bin fully loaded up though. I have a full size spare wheel in there and all the other related bits and bobs as well and it seems pretty stable even in a headwind.

Anyone got a part number for the under spoiler piece?

EDIT - Sorry i should have read the other thread. They were listed there.

rubber front splitter 76851-17070
nuts for above 90179-06286
bolts for above 90119-06827

Anyone who's put on a body kit got a spare one lying around?

Tem

#39
Quote from: "loadswine"Question, do you think the Toyota, or other bodykits with a fron lip do a similar job?
Logic says yes, but I'm not an aerodynamicist, or as informed as some of our members.

I say yes.

Check the link to previous thread mark posted on first page of this for more details.  s;) ;) s;)
Sure you can live without 500hp, but it\'s languishing.

Anonymous

#40
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the photos everyone, I'm missing all of these on my 2000 model. Really would like to get them on as I notice it getting a bit 'light' on the motorway so anything that could improve matters would be great.

Can anyone tell me how easy they are to fit? Does the front splitter require the bumper off or the frunk lining to be taken out to gain access to the other side of the nuts? Or is it possible to somehow reach around under?

Same applies to the spats front and rear, how simple a job is this?

Rich

kanujunkie

#41
they all bolt on from underneath, but i'm not sure if youll hve the bolt holes, although it should be a simple job to put them in yourself
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

markiii

#42
all bolt holes already exist,

easy to fit
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Anonymous

#43
Thanks, is it tricky to get on the other side of the bolt holes to put the nuts on then? That's what I was getting at. Or are the holes pre-threaded so it's literally just a case of offering up the splitter, spat etc.... and doing a bolt up?

spit

#44
You can fit it in situ. I'm looking at the exploded diagram that MrT printed off for me. It doesn't show the fixings, but if you look back to Jaso's post it lists the nut and bolt part numbers. If you want to save a few bob, any decent hardware n's&b's and maybe washers will do. The bumper already has slots to receive these.
1999 MR-S with added C2 POWΣR

Humbled recipient of the Perry Byrnes memorial trophy (2007 & 2011)

Liz

#45
Ordering mine for the Porker tomorrow - glad I have here to discuss things which are the same on our cars.
ex-TTE Turbo, now Freelander Sport, its not a car its a Landrover!

Ernie Ball

#46
Just ordered my front air dam and rear spats plus associated nuts and bolts.

Got a quote of "around €80" for the air dam and the two spats not counting the mounting hardware.  My car already has the front wheel spats.

What's the procedure for mounting the rear spats (or is it obvious)?

markiii

#47
if memory serves there are 2 existing plastic bolts that hold teh arch liner on.

these then screw into teh hollow centre of those.
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

spit

#48
Its pretty obvious although I haven't done it to testify.

Spats have two screwbolts that go through the liner and fasten into the overpriced piece of meccano that you should have ordered with 'em (x2)(58747-17020). There's also a Placcy fastening to hold it to the sill underneath.

(edit - looking at Mark's post followed by mine, perhaps best if you do it and let the rest of us know   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  )
1999 MR-S with added C2 POWΣR

Humbled recipient of the Perry Byrnes memorial trophy (2007 & 2011)

Ernie Ball

#49
Just checked the rear wheel liners and mine don't have holes where the bolts are shown here:



Is this a problem?

Sorry if I'm being thick about this.

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