help anyone - Error Code P0141

crankshaft · June 27, 2006, 15:59

There's more...

Seems that the 0141 error is tripped by a current less than 0.2 Amps or more than 2 amps, so a 47R reisistor may be enough !

Can anyone try a 5W (ceramic ?!) 47R resistor & see if it does the trick

PeterC

philster_d · June 27, 2006, 17:33

Quote from: "bigun007"
Quote from: "markiii"yup

impact could have damaged the cable

Anyway i can prove this?

Mine and several others have gone after having the exhaust changes.

This leads me to believe the heater part is like a lightbulb filament, so hamering say to remove the exhaust seems the likely culprit.

If the exhaust got a knock in the crash definately possible.

This code doesnt show up imediately, if I clear it, it would take a few full drives before recuring. so they might not of detected it at the accident repair place depending how much they ran it.

Anonymous · June 28, 2006, 12:44

Quote from: "spit"Peter, Stock heater is 14 ohm give or take

Is that hot or cold? The resistance is unlikely to be constant.

spit · June 28, 2006, 13:56

Warm s:wink: :wink: s:wink: I didn't get that cute when I measured it matey. I was powered down after a long run.

......but as mentioned a (cold!) 15ohm 10W+ resistor is a good match and - whatever the ECU tolerance issues are - its well within them.

Anonymous · July 5, 2006, 07:10

Page SF-61 of the BGB lists as
11-16ohm at 20°c
23-32ohm at 800°C <- This is how the ECU knows to turn the circuit off.

Anonymous · July 5, 2006, 09:37

So if we use a 25Ohm there be no CEL and also the resistor would not get hot as it would think it was up to temp? s:?: :?: s:?: s:idea: :idea: s:idea:

kanujunkie · July 5, 2006, 12:20

at the moment i have a 15ohm 10watt resistor fitted and i'm still getting a CEL, so it doesn't always work

Anonymous · July 5, 2006, 13:37

Quote from: "kanujunkie"at the moment i have a 15ohm 10watt resistor fitted and i'm still getting a CEL, so it doesn't always work

Oh s:(

s:( I'll be trying that at the weekend. Fingers crossed s:? :? s:? Lucky I bought a OBD-II reader. Could prove very useful.

Anonymous · July 6, 2006, 10:21

Quote from: "wts"Page SF-61 of the BGB lists as
11-16ohm at 20°c
23-32ohm at 800°C <- This is how the ECU knows to turn the circuit off.

So, a 27ohm resisitor would probably fool the system into believing the heater circuit is intact, without it drawing any power?

Ooops, Matt got there before me! s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

crankshaft · July 7, 2006, 15:10

Hope so !!

Just bought 3 ceramic 27R 10W resistors, intend to splice them into the heater wires next week.

What colour are the heater wires ??

Crankshaft

kanujunkie · July 7, 2006, 15:37

page 5

Link

Anonymous · July 7, 2006, 19:10

I just got a P0141 code pop up this week which turned out to be a complete malfunction of the post cat O2 sensor. I know this because I used my code reader, laptop and enginecheck software to plot a real time graph of all three sensors. This showed that the post cat sensor was not switching at all, I replaced the sensor with a spare one I had lying around, re-run the test and is now working fine. So be careful it may not be just the heater side of the sensor. Also just to note the sensor I used has heater resistance of 7 ohms and so far no mil light.

Anonymous · June 11, 2007, 12:39

Quick question regarding the o2 sensors...once again!
I have had a good read of the numerous posts on the subject.
Since having a fault code of 0141, and after reading "GSB"'s comments, I took his latter advice of ignoring he problem and living with the CEL.

However, since the time has come to sell, and I now have a potential buyer, I need to clear the light and I have gone for the full Toyota replacement, to be safe.

However I just wanted to make sure that the replacement sensor will clear the light on a de-pre-catted car, or will the new sensor still recognise that nothing is changing in the exhaust gases and throw up the light again?

Wabbitkilla · June 11, 2007, 12:55

You should without a cat throw a 0420 code.

"Catalyst working below threshold".

I've just fitted an O2 sensore from "Rockauto" in the US, $100ish delivered. Heater circuit is 16.5Ohms, and seems to be working fine.

Anonymous · June 11, 2007, 13:28

Actually; just seen aaronjb's comment in page 7 of the sticky above, that eased my mind with the new sensor.
cheers

Liz · June 17, 2007, 15:51

Got a P0141 that won't go away, well it does with the Gendan reset and it is on a 2 trip logic coming back again. I have seen that the Gendan self fit kit includes a splicing kit - sorry I am ignorant of this - does this require soldering at all or as is suggested - splicing.... is it an easy job to do? s:oops: :oops: s:oops: The self fit ones are only £30 each which is a bargain, I think that Simon needs one as well, our cars follow each others faults for some reason.

Wabbitkilla · June 17, 2007, 17:04

The Gendan kit presents you with a Generic O2 sensore 3 crimps (crushable metal tubes), 3 pieces of heat shrink and instructions.

Basically speaking you snip the old O2 off the wires, strip back 5-6mm of the insulation on both the plug leads and the O2 sensor wires. Identify which wire is which, then shove the respective wires in each end of the crimp and crush it (taking care to put the heat shring on the wire before-hand. I found a pair of self grips are good for this. Then use a soldering iron or equivalent to shrink the heatshrink over the crimp.

Warning - the Gendan generic O2 sensor kit has a lower resistance heater circuit, so you will generate P0141's again.

For my money, i bought an O2 from America with cable & plug already attached and the right heater circuit resistance. More expensive at $100, but still better than the Gendan which generated 0141 when it got up to running temperature.

Liz · June 17, 2007, 18:04

If I didn't find the light annoying at night and for the fact that it hides other codes I would leave it, guess a trip out with the laptop is required for a while s:? :? s:?
Have you got a link to the ones from America at all please?

Or I suppose the ones from Mr T do the job properly!

Wabbitkilla · June 17, 2007, 20:08

Hmmm the part info is: BECK/ARNLEY Part #1564171

Seems to be missing from the website now, but worth getting in touch with them. Considering the number of people who seem to be getting this problem i wonder if it's worth a group buy s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

Any way - link to the website here and browse to Toyota, your year and model, there's plenty of options there (including MAFs)

Liz · June 29, 2007, 13:35

Think that this is sorted now thanks to Ste! Had 4 trips out in the car and no light!!

Anonymous · June 30, 2007, 12:27

Sorry for asking a stupid question, but i was hoping someone could just tell me if i've got this all right.

I've had a P0135 fault (bank 1 sensor 1), and was hoping to avoid paying Toyota's price of £300+. If i order the generic O2 sensor from gendan.co.uk, my local garage should be able to replace it right? They dont need any MR2 specific info, just general mechanic skills?

I know i sound completely clueless, but....well i guess thats about right actually s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

aaronjb · June 30, 2007, 13:03

Correct - all they need is an O2 sensor socket (22mm) or a large spanner, and a 10mm socket to disconnect the battery.

Having said that, it looks like we've found that the generic sensors often throw a heater circuit CEL because they bel out at 4Ohms, rather than the stock 16Ohms, leading the ECU to think the heater in the sensor is dead.

Gendan do a 'custom fit' sensor for £130 or so, but at that price you might as well just go to Toyota for the sensor!

Wabbitkilla's link seems to be the perfect part - stock resistance and much cheaper from the US.

Anonymous · July 1, 2007, 20:05

Cheers Aaron, really appreciate the help, this whole car ownership thing is still new to me!

I followed Wabbitkilla's link and the site doesn't have a match for the part number he listed (as he mentioned), this is the closest I could find by following the links to MR2:

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1564163
Oxygen Sensor, Pre Catalytic Converter;4 Wire Terminal Type;2 Per Car

Is this the one you were referring to? I ask only because it lists 14 or so different sensors for our car!

aaronjb · July 1, 2007, 20:11

Yep - that seems to be the right part number for the manifold sensor(s) - I believe the part Wabbitkilla listed was the post-CAT sensor anyway s:)

s:)

Anonymous · July 1, 2007, 20:17

Excellent! Thanks again, i'll get that ordered now, hopefully my days of not daring to go over 3500rpm will soon be behind me!