RATTLE

Anonymous · July 8, 2006, 09:11

Hi

When i first had my car (3 months) it developed a rattle/knocking, it was diagnosed as the rear drivers side tie rod. it was'nt knackered apparently, but it was not sitting correctly. MrT unbolted, re-positioned and secured the bolts. hey presto, no more rattle s:D

s:D

HOWEVER i have a rattle/knocking again from back there. s:cry: :cry: s:cry:
So question time

Do you recon it's the tie rod again
Where exactly is the Tie rod in question?
Does it just need new bushes or no doubt with mrT its a compleate new rod s:cry: :cry: s:cry:

I'm a bit of a gimp when it comes to cars so be nice s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

kanujunkie · July 8, 2006, 12:36

right, to start with it is a tie rod, but its refered to as the drop links generally, they connect the suspension turret to the anti roll bars(Sway bars). They're located at the rear of the rear tyre just behind the wheel itself and are bolted and allen key'd together. Your looking for a thin bar around 1/4" wide and 10" long mounted vertically

Anonymous · July 8, 2006, 13:54

I've just replaced all my sway bar links with the stainless steel ones from the US. Easy to do, in fact it took me longer to take the old ones off than to fit the new ones. All in it cost me £100 for the front and rear and even with the standard sway bars they do make a big difference.

I've still got my old ones not much good to me so if you want them let me know, I only work in Woodville so we can easily meet up.

By the way these links have only done 4500 miles and they are off a 54 plate car.

Thinking about it if you can get over to Leek (Staffs) tomorrow (Sunday) I'll fit them for you s:D

s:D

Thanks
Rob

Anonymous · July 8, 2006, 15:38

I think i found what you are describing, it's scary though, mrT wanted £180 to replace it, seems very expensive for the size it is. s:cry: :cry: s:cry:

Would FGrob's kind offer fix the rattle then?

Anonymous · July 8, 2006, 15:47

Just more information.

The rattle only happens when the car seems to have warmed up, never when i have just started and drove off.
And you can only hear it when i'm driving really slow or manovering.

Thanks for you help

Anonymous · July 8, 2006, 19:23

Had the wheel off for a good look, bolts are on tight and it doesnt make any noise when shaken. when the car was first diagnosed, i could actually move the wheel back and forward a couple of mm. Now the wheel is firm with no play, so i dont think it can be the drop links/tie rod this time.

kanujunkie · July 9, 2006, 09:44

those tie rods that FGrob describe will work, i have some and they are superb.

As for the rattle only being on a warmed up car, you sure it isn't the heatshields on the cat?? the welds do break and then rattle

Anonymous · July 9, 2006, 09:50

I know what you mean, when i started to search on here for rattles, heat shields are the main thing i found.
But i've checked them all, poked them and tapped them and they dont seem to budge.

kanujunkie · July 9, 2006, 10:36

fair cop, right so back to the drop links

heres the links that FGrob was talking about

m http://www.twosrus.com/catalog/product_ ... cts_id=105 m

they're a really nice product

Anonymous · July 9, 2006, 17:22

And there even half the price of stock mrT ones. still not sure if thats whats making the noise though, when i fiddled with it there was no noise or movement.
Thanks for your help though.

SteveJ · July 9, 2006, 17:52

Quote from: "Phil-yarde"Had the wheel off for a good look, bolts are on tight and it doesnt make any noise when shaken. when the car was first diagnosed, i could actually move the wheel back and forward a couple of mm. Now the wheel is firm with no play, so i dont think it can be the drop links/tie rod this time.

If you could move the wheel, then it WASNT the drop link that everyone seems convinced is also called a tie rod.

The tie rod's are the 3 lower arms of the suspension which tie the hub to the chasis, and if one of these is worn or loose then it would cause the wheel to move around as you described.

If you want me to take a look at the problem, I am working in Derby for the next 2 weeks and have arranged to meet with James (jamesr1) to read his CEL code - you are more than welcome to join us on Tuesday evening - probably going to be at Trowell services on the M1, but drop me a PM to confirm.

Anonymous · July 9, 2006, 17:57

s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

Anonymous · July 13, 2006, 00:15

After meeting with Steve (thanks Steve s:D

s:D ) we have established that the knocking noise is nothing to do with the tie bars or drop links and infact is coming from bellow the charcoal filter, prime suspect is the engine mount.

The noise could be re-created at standstill by pulling outwards sharply on the rear drivers side wheel.

Again many thanks to Steve s:D

s:D

Anonymous · July 13, 2006, 19:08

Had a look at the suspected engine mount today, one of the two nuts are actually missing s:(

s:( will any nut do?............

.... or are these "special engine mount nuts" only available from mrT for £100000000+VAT+ 2 hours labour for " INVESTIGATING" s:D

s:D s:D

s:D

Anonymous · July 13, 2006, 19:14

Quote from: "Phil-yarde".... or are these "special engine mount nuts" only available from mrT for £100000000+VAT+ 2 hours labour for " INVESTIGATING" s:D s:D s:D s:D s:D s:D

I think you're becoming as cynical & pessimistic s:lol: :lol: s:lol: as me!!!!

maybe we oughta start up a splinter site w www.MR2SROC.org w

"MR2 Shafted Roadster Owners Club"!!!

Anonymous · July 13, 2006, 20:36

I dont know what you mean James! s:D

s:D s:D

s:D

Just stuck a digital camera under there and there are actually 3 studs not 2 as i said before (i didnt feel the middle one first time s:oops: :oops: s:oops: )
Still ony one nut missing though.

The nut looks like a 14mm, can anyone clarify that?

Anonymous · July 14, 2006, 17:03

replaced the nut today.....................

...............and the knocking noise is still there s:cry: :cry: s:cry: s:cry: :cry: s:cry: s:cry: :cry: s:cry:

LOSING THE WILL TO LIVE s:evil: :evil: s:evil:

kanujunkie · July 14, 2006, 19:35

you coming to JAE?

Anonymous · July 14, 2006, 21:07

no mate, sorry

Anonymous · July 15, 2006, 12:04

MrT traced the noise to the o/s engine mount gone soft (Steve was 100% right s:D

s:D )

They want £259.63 to replace it and asked if i wanted them to order the part, when i finaly came round with the aid of the smelling salts i smilled and said not at the moment thank you very much.

Does this price seem right?

philster_d · July 15, 2006, 13:11

#I dont know if its the same mounts, but I upgraded my engine mounts to solid uerethane versions total cos was about $60

Phil

Anonymous · July 15, 2006, 13:19

Have you still got you old ones MATE s:D

s:D

Have i ever said i think your amazing, and that shirt you've got on really sets off your eyes.......... lots more sucking up s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

Another quick queston, is the air con, err, thing in the font or the back, just had it re-gassed and the string/cord that holds open our storage space in the front has been snapped off s:cry: :cry: s:cry: would the gimps have gone into the front?

SteveJ · July 15, 2006, 13:44

Quote from: "Phil-yarde"Have you still got you old ones MATE s:D s:D

Have i ever said i think your amazing, and that shirt you've got on really sets off your eyes.......... lots more sucking up s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

Another quick queston, is the air con, err, thing in the font or the back, just had it re-gassed and the string/cord that holds open our storage space in the front has been snapped off s:cry: :cry: s:cry: would the gimps have gone into the front?

The filling point for the AC is under the plastic trim at the front of the car, so yes - they would have needed to open the frunk

Anonymous · July 15, 2006, 13:55

nice one, you found out what it is!! and got an excuse to upgrade to solid mounts at the same time, Bonus!!! s8)

s8)

Anonymous · July 15, 2006, 13:56

FRUNK hehe s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

Rang them up and gave them a mouthfull, there getting me a new lid cos they've actually broke the plastic bit s:D

s:D i said cant they just drill a hole in it and tie the cord in a knot but nope they want to get a new one.

back to finding a O/S engine mount now then.