Heat management

[kanujunkie]

it did occur to me that we should do some experiments, the fact that the IC's are on the bottom with the Hass and C2 kits may not matter with regards to haveing a lid fan, were looking at removing the heat from the engine bay as well, who's to say that the lid fan wont aid the natural flow of cooling air, were working on the theory that we only need cooling air to be dragged through the IC, but we may also need air to be sucked in from above, a 2 fold attack on the problem with the hot air escaping through the back

Also it did occur to me that we should do a GB on the C-One side intake vents as they will increase the ram air effect into the engine bay.

[spit]

Or a cheaper but fugly pair of earlobes....  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

[Anonymous]

I'm using the Hass fan kit and it has done wonders for the under hood temps. I don't have actual readings but I can touch the hood after a long drive without smelling burnt skin.

[kanujunkie]

where does the hass fans sit then?

[Anonymous]

Now the fugly pair of earlobes is a decent idea.
How can you get them to blend into the car without the Prince Charles look?

[Anonymous]

No offence guys, but even if they reduced temps by 5 degrees I wouldn't touch 'em. They are as ugly as sin, and kill the delicate lines on the '2.


IMHO  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[markiii]

on the intercooler as per our discussions ref spal last weekend


I''ve been thinking about the fan for teengine cover, it's not when your driving that you really need thison but when in traffioc or stationary

could be worth having one pushing heat out if set so it doesn't fight natural airflow when moving

[Anonymous]

Yes but you'll stand out in a car park  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[kanujunkie]

on the intercooler as per our discussions ref spal last weekend


I''ve been thinking about the fan for teengine cover, it's not when your driving that you really need thison but when in traffioc or stationary

could be worth having one pushing heat out if set so it doesn't fight natural airflow when moving

are we talking Phils afterburner design?

[spit]

Now the fugly pair of earlobes is a decent idea.
How can you get them to blend into the car without the Prince Charles look?

I'm with Dan on the fuglys.....but with a bit of re-styling and a blending piece running forwards along the door creases it could look less Charles and more Diana.

....and maybe some additional testarossa ribs to give it that toast rack look.....no, a bit much perhaps! oops:

[markiii]

nope fans bolted to the top of teh intercooler to suck air through it, US guys reporting 6 degree C intake temp drop with this

[kanujunkie]

i personally think the c-one intake design is beautiful and can really accent the car



picture is nabbed from our own Dieamonds site, hope you dont mind mate  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[Anonymous]

I'd need to see it from the front of the car, but that still looks rough to my eyes.

[markiii]

Lil Bstaerds GT40 style one was my fave shame he decided against making it

[kanujunkie]

[Anonymous]

Okay, so that's not as bad as I thought. Keep it matching the body colour and it'd look pretty nice, I reckon.

[Tem]

Lil Bstaerds GT40 style one was my fave shame he decided against making it

He did?  s:shock: :shock: s:shock:    s:cry: :cry: s:cry:

[markiii]

yep seems to favour a smaller version of teh C1, the original GT40 looked best to my eyes

[Anonymous]

1. OIL. If I had any money at all  s:cry: :cry: s:cry:  , an oil cooler would be first.

I agree.
Given the easily repeatable conditions of driving in-town on multiple short trips and sitting at traffic lights on a 90°+F day - having an oil cooler reduced engine coolant from ~205 to ~195°F.

2. COOLANT. It must be hot down there! I'm getting only limited fan cut-in at idle and no signs from the gauge that coolant temp. is abnormally high.

I ran HPT stage II for a year with no heat shield between the coolant tank and the engine bay. The stock air inlet from the side vent is/was still in place and that blows directly between the bottle and the taillight. Of, course it does nothing at idle.I've since added heat shielding to protect both taillight areas as I have plastic tanks in each one now.
On a 90-100°F day, at idle, the tailights wells are ~150°-160°F- Which has consistently been the same as the intake piping at the MAF sensor.

Boiling coolant in the bottle is something I've got accustomed to in all weathers if I don't run down before shutting off, which supports your Turbo heat theory Mark.

Never noticed this "boiling".
When out in the wide-open with 100° ambient and 125°F at the compressor inlet,  boosting at 10psi, the coolant temps are in the range 180-210F and oil 190-220°F. This includes running flat-out in 5th gear for 30-40 seconds at a time.

3. HOOD TEMPS. Heat wrap is 'sposed to be excellent. I've still no idea how the air flows across the engine bay but with our IC arrangements it looks like a pull-through fan at the back end is the best option. Who has removed their bonnet tray? Does that help?

If you remove both plastic diapers from the bottom and the decklid shield from the top then air flow ,at speed, is up thru the I/C and out the top and rear.

Heres some post-I/C IAT's captured recently.

Sea level

12psi - multiple 4th gear WOT runs - 100°F ambient - IAT 130-140°F - At idle under these conditions the temps went as high as ~160°F

10psi - multiple 4th gear WOT runs - 60°F ambient - IAT 90-100°F - This was on a dyno with a fan blowing directly UP into the bottom of the I/C.

Ascending from sea level to ~3000 feet.
Off boost - 2&3rd gear uphill twisties - 80°F ambient - IAT 120-130°F

As you can see, my post-intercooler pre-W/M intake temperatures are typically 30-50° above ambient using just the shroud and the bottom-mount I/C. My actual IAT's are considerably less than these but thats a different problem and I must relocate the IAT signal source to correct it.

Water and/or Alcohol injection will reduce intake, cylinder and exhaust temps significantly. Some say as much as 125°F. Each degree reduction in IAT's supposedly transfers directly to a reduction in EGT's. This is why I must relocate the IAT sensor because mine is still in the MAF housing in front of the W/M nozzle.

[kanujunkie]

Bill, just thinking on your first 3 comments, over here we do have an oil cooler, its coolant cooled, could that be the problem we have? are the coolant temps being raised that bit further? Would it be worthwhile getting an air oil cooler?, i know where to get small ones that would fit nicely, perhaps Mark and myself should get together and try and fab something up with one

[Tem]

Bill, just thinking on your first 3 comments, over here we do have an oil cooler, its coolant cooled, could that be the problem we have? are the coolant temps being raised that bit further? Would it be worthwhile getting an air oil cooler?, i know where to get small ones that would fit nicely, perhaps Mark and myself should get together and try and fab something up with one

It does transfer some heat from the oil to the coolant, but it really isn't that much.

I think a "real" oil cooler would be a lot better if you're making more heat. The stock one is great for stock engine, meaning it's simple and cheap, but still enough to keep the oil from getting too hot even if you floor it for a long time in german autobahns.  s8) s8)

I've been looking at kits which also remount the filter elsewhere. The filter is already the lowest part of my car with only the stock cooler and GReddy plate and I definitely wouldn't want it any lower.  s:? :? s:?  There are some in eBay for a nice price...but if you're going to make something that fits like a glove, that would be even better.  s8) s8)

[philster_d]

is there an easy oil cooler upgrade ?

[Tem]

is there an easy oil cooler upgrade ?

I suppose this is the easiest option:
 m http://www.spyderchat.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=27328 m

Not available right now, but he has said he will do another run in near future. Personally I'm not too comfortable with that. After our stock cooler (and my GReddy plate) a 3rd plate would just drop the oil filter too low and I wouldn't wanna hit anything with it.  s:? :? s:?

Here's another choice, which relocates the oil filter to better place:
 m http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-M ... 1991QQrdZ1 m
That's a generic kit, so you'd have to figure out the fitment places yourself. But it does come with a bigger cooler and is cheaper. Doesn't have a thermostat though, not even as an option. Of course you could get one yourself.

Similar kit from UK:
 m http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... R4_PCN_BIX m

And here's the kit I've been thinking of getting:
 m http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... L:RTQ:US:1 m
It's more expensive, but in UK (=no customs or crazy postage) and has an option for a thermostat.
(the bid has ended, but they have more on their site, also some info and other stuff in there)

[kanujunkie]

just as a point Phil, Mocal stuff is made about 15miles from your front door. Have a look at  w www.thinkauto.com w

[Anonymous]

Bill, just thinking on your first 3 comments, over here we do have an oil cooler, its coolant cooled, could that be the problem we have? are the coolant temps being raised that bit further? Would it be worthwhile getting an air oil cooler?, i know where to get small ones that would fit nicely, perhaps Mark and myself should get together and try and fab something up with one

I've seen pictures of the eurospec oil 'cooler' and would have to think an actual finned cooler would almost certainly remove more heat from the oil thus reducing the load on the coolant. The passenger side air vent is where my cooler went.
I think you guys have some sort of charcoal canister mounted in the same place.
Setrab Oil cooler and Mounting bracket

Here another idea for location.
 m http://www.ridgerunnersfarm.com/images/ ... stfit2.jpg m
 m http://www.ridgerunnersfarm.com/images/ ... estfit.jpg m