Another rattle

MR-S Turbo · July 18, 2006, 21:21

Over the past week i have had a rattle coming from the engine under light load between 2k and 3k. It is not the tensioners as I have replaced them. It sounds like pinking. Any other ideas?

spit · July 18, 2006, 21:24

Could be pinking s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

I had this too, and sounds like its coming back - hope not cos it was the leak developing in the manifold (cracked s:cry: :cry: s:cry: ) Just like pinking under low revs and light load.

Might be worth you having a shuftie around your gaskets and pipework?

MR-S Turbo · July 18, 2006, 21:58

Will have a look tommorow. Which manifold? I am also going to drain the fuel and put some new in, just incase it was a bad batch of petrol. But again the heat we have at the minute cant be helping.

spit · July 18, 2006, 22:03

Sorry.....Exhaust manifold. I'm not familiar with the PE, but I had this developing around the head of the feed into the turbo.....was blowing through with that resonant pinky-type flutter.

Anonymous · July 18, 2006, 22:08

Especially the case for the PE, where the turbo actually sits above the manifold, adding a whole world of stress to it. Have you got the thing braced at all?

markiii · July 18, 2006, 22:08

pe manifold is famous for cracking socould be worth checking

MR-S Turbo · July 18, 2006, 22:19

Will give it a good checking over. So much to doo before JAE and then i get this s:? :? s:?

MR-S Turbo · July 19, 2006, 22:45

Well its the manifold cracked s:(

s:( I am going to try and weld it tommorow with any luck. I will post some pictures up soon.

spit · July 19, 2006, 22:53

Sorry to hear it s:cry: :cry: s:cry:

I just had mine built up - not a pretty repair but it works.

And while I was at it I had a couple of bars welded between Manifold and Turbo flanges to absorb some of the stress. Worth a punt to protect the repair.

Ste

MR-S Turbo · July 19, 2006, 22:55

Yeah ive got some stainless bar here I am going to make a few braces to the engine with it.

kanujunkie · July 19, 2006, 22:56

sorry to hear that boss, if theres anything i can do then pm me, i'll be around all day tomorrow

MR-S Turbo · July 19, 2006, 23:48

I should be alright but I will keep it in mind.

Here are some pictures.

kanujunkie · July 20, 2006, 08:10

well at least its on the seam weld mostly, hopefully they can clean it out and reweld it, 24-36hrs to find a welder before JAE, its dooable

MR-S Turbo · July 20, 2006, 08:54

Its getting welded as we speak. So all being well it will be up and running by tonight for a quick blast (test). Ready for the drive down tommorow morning s:D

s:D Just need to sort out a gasket. And what is the required torque for the manifold studs?

spit · July 20, 2006, 09:02

Stocker manifold nuts are quite loose! 27 ftlbs IIRC, I've got mine at that plus a nip and they've been OK with or without Nordlocks.

markiii · July 20, 2006, 09:07

Quote from: "MR-S Turbo"Its getting welded as we speak. So all being well it will be up and running by tonight for a quick blast (test). Ready for the drive down tommorow morning s:D s:D Just need to sort out a gasket. And what is the required torque for the manifold studs?

you can probably get awy with teh same gasket if ti's in good nick,

MR-S Turbo · July 20, 2006, 09:46

The gasket looks as if it has had better days. Got one sorted from MR T for £12.48. Just need to go pick it up.

kanujunkie · July 20, 2006, 09:55

heres the torque figures

m http://www.stuandele.co.uk/mr2roc/engine_torques.pdf m

MR-S Turbo · July 20, 2006, 17:18

Cheers.

Its all back together s:D

s:D Just need a quick wash and ill go for a spin to make sure everything stays in place. Then I will need to wash inside and out ready for tommorow. s8)

s8)

normanh · July 21, 2006, 09:34

Manifolds can be so hard to weld up depending on the material they are constructed from. Cast iron being the worst, I have done a few with little success even with pre-heating and very slow cooling in fire brick surrounds using disimilar metal rods. Braze is by far the best way if possible on cast ironbut still not foolproof.Fabricated ones are easier but the cracks shown are stress cracks indicating that it is likely that it will go again. TIG is by far the best way to attempt a repair and very slow cooling.

normanh

spit · July 25, 2006, 16:05

Quote from: "Last week, spit"I had this too, and sounds like its coming back.....

s:cry: :cry: s:cry:

(you can guess the rest)

s:cry: :cry: s:cry:

Anyone want the job? PM me.

kanujunkie · July 25, 2006, 16:15

oh shit mate thats not good s:(

s:( , could be time to get that cast manifold from Gas or a new custom one s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

normanh · July 25, 2006, 16:16

mmm I forgot to add that it is very imortant to clamp the flat manifold face which goes to the head on a strongback to prevent distortion on cooling, these tubular designs can do crazy things with heating and cooling and you might find the holes no longer line up with the studs or even that the face will not clamp up square on the head, more serious problems.

normanh

MR-S Turbo · July 25, 2006, 16:39

I think the welds only held for about an hour of driving as the noise is back s:cry: :cry: s:cry:
Will have to pull it apart again and investigate s:cry: :cry: s:cry:

spit · July 28, 2006, 01:00

Quote from: "MR-S Turbo"I think the welds only held for about an hour of driving as the noise is back s:cry: :cry: s:cry:
Will have to pull it apart again and investigate s:cry: :cry: s:cry:

How you getting on with yours?

I'm taking mine in Monday to a new firm. This guy is reputed to be one of the best stainless steel welders in the North of England....perhaps a custom equal-length manifold in the offing. We'll see!