Different Approaches to E-manage Turbo Tuning

markiii · July 28, 2006, 07:50

personally I'd get teh pressure sensor in first

none are yet runing a wodeband though mine is going in soon

kanujunkie · July 28, 2006, 07:50

surely it would be better to get the pressure sensor working first, then swap in the injectors and tune, that would then illiminate the unkown source of any problems that could occur

Anonymous · July 28, 2006, 08:28

Quote from: "markiii"personally I'd get the pressure sensor in first
none are yet runing a wodeband though mine is going in soon

I thought someone posted in the "What shall I get with my turbo " thread that they were running 12psi on a C2 with a WB and the AFRs were "good". Perhaps, I misread.

The pressure v injector upgrade conundrum exists because I already have both in-hand. The injectors have been flowtested and are indeed the "630's that flow like 680's". Well, the type of test used only told me they were at least 2.6 times the stock 260's as I had one of them used as a control alongside the 4 new ones. They stuck all 5 in the machine and ran them at various duty-cycles for a total of 30 seconds.

So you think the sensor conversion with the 380's should be first?
I'll have to give it a go this weekend then!

philster_d · July 28, 2006, 11:03

Ste has been running C2 at those high pressures (11ish) of late.

spit · July 28, 2006, 11:13

Quote from: "wts"I thought someone posted in the "What shall I get with my turbo " thread that they were running 12psi on a C2 with a WB and the AFRs were "good". Perhaps, I misread.

No, that's true, although maybe Markiii was referring to the wideband being linked into the ECU? I have done that so I could play around with the adjustable stoich point but I couldn't get stable readings on the gauge due to an earthing conflict (although the analogue signal to ECU was fine). I'm back on NB now with the WB solely as a gauge driver. The car drives a lot sweeter that way. I tried several different refresh rates on the analogue feed but the (J-Spec) ECU much prefers the NB signal.

And yes, AFRs are "good" at 12psi. Well, they're good enough! The turbo doesn't hold the peak level for long periods unless I drive really aggressively (which i don't). I'm on a slightly lean trim across the map and boost to AFR12. It holds there at the peaks, perhaps with a slight fade as boost increases. Nothing that has me worried though.

But its hard to tell accurately without a logging function. I'm usually looking at the road too s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

markiii · July 28, 2006, 18:03

none of teh Hass owners in teh Uk are yet running a wideband

Anonymous · July 28, 2006, 18:54

Quote from: "spit"but I couldn't get stable readings on the gauge due to an earthing conflict (although the analogue signal to ECU was fine).

I had the opposite effect with a ground offset and the LC-1. The guage was right but the 0-5v analog out I used for logging would read leaner as soon as my 7amp W/M pump kicked. Since the pump activates at only 2-3psig its bolloxed the logging right away. I've since grounded the WB stuff to the engine block but havent done any more logging.

QuoteThe turbo doesn't hold the peak level for long periods unless I drive really aggressively (which i don't). I'm on a slightly lean trim across the map and boost to AFR12.

With an MBC and a heatsoaked system, peak boost will be 1-2psi lower than "normal".
Im tuned to 12.5 on gasoline and the methanol enrichens it to 12.0.
Running stock timing (no boost retard) from ~3100rpm on up.

spit · July 28, 2006, 21:22

Quote from: "wts"I had the opposite effect with a ground offset and the LC-1. The guage was right but the 0-5v analog out I used for logging would read leaner as soon as my 7amp W/M pump kicked. Since the pump activates at only 2-3psig its bolloxed the logging right away. I've since grounded the WB stuff to the engine block but havent done any more logging.

[drift] I consulted Innovate and they recommended that all 3 LC-1 grounds (main unit, analog and heater) should be connected together at the ECU. They also suggested that I run the XD-1 ground back to the same point to stop it dancing but I'm dubious because the signal lead is effectively grounded back to the main unit anyway. the loose wires are solely to power the device. When I'm not running an analog into the ECU the gauge is rock solid s:? :? s:? [/drift]

Anonymous · July 29, 2006, 07:46

Quote from: "spit"I consulted Innovate and they recommended that all 3 LC-1 grounds (main unit, analog and heater) should be connected together at the ECU.

Your right to be skeptical.
Innovate makes the reasonable assumption that the ECU is grounded directly to the engine and not the relay block or any other interim location before the actual block itself. But who knows what's going on inside the OEM harness?
That multiple grounds are being combined into a single common one is a certainty. Thats why I ran all the WB gounds directly to the engine instead of to one of several possible ECU grounds available from the cubby hole.

Also, the LC1 heater circuit should be on a separate engine ground from the LC1 system and analog grounds. The heater should not be attached to the same location on the block as the other 2.
My XD-1 is grounded via the LC-1 as well so its black ground wire is just taped off.