Another blown engine?

markiii · April 23, 2004, 12:45

you'll need to be under the car.

follow the cat pipe to where it meets teh manifold, there the pipe goes in to 2 flexi joints before hitting the flange that bolts to the manifold.

there are 2 or 4 small bolts to undo, then sinply bend teh heatshield a few times until any remaining weld snaps.

only snag is the heatshield is there to protect the plastic undertray from melting.

IRRC you don't have the plastics anyway though so shouldn't be a problem.

Anonymous · April 23, 2004, 12:48

cheers mate, its a lovely day so i might get the car up on the jacks and have a look

Anonymous · April 23, 2004, 13:10

just had a look and it doesn't look corroded at all

markiii · April 23, 2004, 13:42

neither di mine, the weld had cracked though.

I removed it and problem gone.

Anonymous · April 23, 2004, 13:49

just remembered that the engine only makes a clattering sound when its warm. does the heatshield need to be hot before it vibrates?

markiii · April 23, 2004, 13:54

thats how mine started, as it got worse you could hear it when cold as well.

Anonymous · April 23, 2004, 14:11

looks as if its gonna be tricky getting the 2 bolts out as they're heavily corroded s:(

s:(

Anonymous · April 23, 2004, 14:32

cant get them off mate, a 10mm isnt big enough and an 11mm just rounds it off s:(

s:( any suggestions?

markiii · April 23, 2004, 14:50

I didn't have quite such a bad problem.

if all else fails mole grips x 2 and lots of effort.

Anonymous · April 23, 2004, 17:09

Quote from: "Tem"Got her back yesterday s8) s8)

Now anyone got any tips on how to drive the break in period nicely...??

The TRD clutch and flywheel are just screaming "REV ME, ABUSE ME!" s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:

Yes I read an interesting article last week about engine break-in. It basicalyy says that having to run an engine in gently over a period of time is a myth and that manufacturers probably only recommend this because if they told you the best way to break in the engine they may be liable for litigation if there are any negative consequences i.e. you crash the car and die.

Guess you're wondering what the best way to break the engine in is? Warm the engine up thoroughly and then thrash the engine. It is important that this is done as soon as you drive the new engine. This sounds a bit mechanically unsympathetic doesn't it? Well read this:

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

MRMike · April 23, 2004, 17:16

Yeah i think i've read this before Rusty..but IIRC this guy is talking about motorbikes is he not?

Anonymous · April 23, 2004, 17:17

While the guy may be right, don't just take one person and their one view as gospel... (especially when they've such a naff site design s:)

s:) )

MRMike · April 23, 2004, 17:19

Quote from: "phil4"While the guy may be right, don't just take one person and their one view as gospel... (especially when they've such a naff site design s:) s:) )

s:lol: :lol: s:lol: He probably also has another site fixing knackered new engines...

To be fair though I know that my old 206 GTI apparently didn't need running in, because apparently the GTI engine is run ona testbed at max RPM for so long before it passes inspection..

While that's all well and good it's different when the engine is linked to a new driveshaft etc. I bet the extra strain on the engine is exponentially increased..

Anonymous · April 24, 2004, 10:30

Quote from: "MRMike"Yeah i think i've read this before Rusty..but IIRC this guy is talking about motorbikes is he not?

Yes he is talking about bike engines but I can't see it makes any difference. After all running in is mainly concerned with devoloping a good seal between piston rings and the cylinder liner so I can't see that bike or car engines are going to behave differently in this respect.

Just thought it might be of interest as an alternative view - if we don't consider other possibilities then how do we ever progress. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

MRMike · April 24, 2004, 10:44

Definitely Rusty..I wasn't saying it was worthless information! Sorry if I gave that impression s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

filcee · April 24, 2004, 10:45

ISTR recall that many. many years ago you could buy Riley sports cars "ready run in". [Urban legend has it that] Running in was achieved by a factory mechanic driving the car at speed between Coventry and Birmingham until the engine seized. Said mechanic would then jump out and enjoy a smoke whilst the bits cooled down. Once the engined had cooled and unseized, the car was driven gently back to the factory from where its new owner could take delivery of an already run in Riley!

Anonymous · April 24, 2004, 10:50

Quote from: "phil4"While the guy may be right, don't just take one person and their one view as gospel... (especially when they've such a naff site design s:) s:) )

Phil, I hear what you're saying but equally, why take the general consensus of many people as gospel. With regard to running-in we hear lots of similar opinions from many people - that engines should be run in gently and this is reiterated in the manufacturers' manual. Before Roger Banister ran the mile in under 4 minutes the general opinion was that it wasn't possible and this milestone had remained unbroken for years. After he broke it, it was then broken again by a number of different people in a relatively short period of time. I know this has nothing to do with engines but general opinion is usually founded on the majority reiterating what they have heard from someone else.

Just going back to the engine running in thing - did you know that many manufacturers subject their brand new engines to a full throttle engine run as part of a final test before the car leaves the factory but these same manufacturers then advocate some sort of gentler running in procedure in the car manual. This makes no mechanical sense other than protecting the owner from writing the car and his / herself off after working the engine hard for the first 500 or 1000 miles.

Now don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that any particular method is right or wrong but merely that we should keep open minds to alternative possibilities. Hey, someone has to play the devil's advocate once in a while s:)

s:) After all - each to his own

Tem · April 25, 2004, 17:38

FWIW, even the manual says that "Your vehicle does not need an elaborate break-in.", but continues with "But following a few simple tips for the first 1000 km (600 miles) can add to the future economy and long life of your vehicle:" s:roll: :roll: s:roll:

(and then it lists the break-in stuff)

Anonymous · April 25, 2004, 20:17

Quote from: "RUSTY"
Quote from: "Tem"Got her back yesterday s8) s8)

Now anyone got any tips on how to drive the break in period nicely...??

The TRD clutch and flywheel are just screaming "REV ME, ABUSE ME!" s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:

Yes I read an interesting article last week about engine break-in. It basicalyy says that having to run an engine in gently over a period of time is a myth and that manufacturers probably only recommend this because if they told you the best way to break in the engine they may be liable for litigation if there are any negative consequences i.e. you crash the car and die.

Guess you're wondering what the best way to break the engine in is? Warm the engine up thoroughly and then thrash the engine. It is important that this is done as soon as you drive the new engine. This sounds a bit mechanically unsympathetic doesn't it? Well read this:

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I have raced motorcycles and have broken some new racing bikes in, as described in the article.

In the manual of racing bikes (KTM) those were the instructions (more or less). First fuel deposit (120 kms) never make full rpm, go to around 75% of power, in 2nd and 3rd gear, never maintaining constant speed, accelarating and decelarating all the time. Do more 380km, never maintaining full blast for long, but accelarating lots of times till full blast and decelarating, in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear. Change the oil, and oil filter and that's it. Ready to race.

I know that guys that race in car trophees (almost stock cars, and all of the same model) do the break in the same way.

So, I have broken in my Mr2 the same way. Picked the car from the shop, headed to the Spanish mountains, drove gently for 100km, went on mountain roads, and have done the same as described in the break-in of the motorcycle.

When I left the car at Toyota Shop with 1200km, and asked to change the oil (non synthetic) and the oil filter and put synthetic oil, they looked at me as if I was crazy, but they have done as I demanded. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Tem · April 28, 2004, 07:18

Well...the break in is over and...uhm...any guesses? s:evil: :evil: s:evil:

The car pretty much refuses to go above ~60mph...and it can't even keep that speed on uphills, even if I floor it on 3rd. And when I tried to rev it on 1st, it made a helluva noise around 5-6k and couldn't even reach the limiter...

Precats seem ok, no loss of oil...and feels perfectly normal with light throttle and city speeds.

I was thinking that the old precats must be blocking the main cat/muffler, which they didn't bother to change...

Slacey · April 28, 2004, 07:28

Definately - old main cat is screwed. It seems jonboy has the same problem as well now.

Anonymous · April 28, 2004, 07:43

Quote from: "Tem"I was thinking that the old precats must be blocking the main cat/muffler, which they didn't bother to change...

Your saying that they left your old manifold on here? Or new manifold with the old main cat?

GSB · April 28, 2004, 08:17

Get rid of that main cat before your new engine is toast!

Tem · April 28, 2004, 08:41

New manifold with old main cat...I doubt they even bothered to check it.

I'll get rid of the main cat, but I'll be wanting a new one from warranty first. I need it for inspections anyway s8)

s8)

(I was this " close to get the Ricoh racing exhaust from 143hawaii already)

Anonymous · April 29, 2004, 14:23

Jesus, I'm amazed at the sheer Muppetness of MR T not checking the main cat after the pre-cats have broken down. If you didn't know what you know, Mr T could be staring at another engine replacement claim.