Best position for axle stands?

Started by Anonymous, April 3, 2007, 16:31

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lemans

#25
Quote from: "loadswine"
Quote from: "Gif"
Quote from: "loadswine"Had mine up on axle stands
How old are those blue and red axle stands then?  I reckon they are Halfords circa 1979?

  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  Yep, about right I reckon, not quite as old as me though. Old tools can work too!

( Just waiting for someone to use that as their sig! lol)

I have the same axle stands too!

Are we just showing our age?
Daryl
Facelift Black MR2 with red leather interior. Hardtop, rear brace, SP body brace, TRD short shift, Mongo\'s,  Dev\'s & SP Turbo - 238bp, 220lbft.

mrzwei

#26
 s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Ex.MR2 SMT sadly missed.
Saab 9-5 Turbo, Hirsch stage 1, Sports suspension and anti roll bars, uprated disks, sports intake and filter and various other bits. 210bhp, 320Nm.
Talbot Express campervan with carb, distributor, coil and no cat! SOLD

Gif

#27
Still got mine and they still work perfectly along with the blue steel ramps bought at the same time   s:D :D s:D  .  Mind you whilst I would use them for supporting the 2, I don't think I would have either of them supporting my diesel front end, not sure what the weight rating is on them  s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  .
Audi TT 200 Tfsi Roadster, Ibis White, Steptronic, Bose, Nav, Climate, Telcon, Nappa Leather
Ex BMW Z4 sDrive30i Auto, Titan Silver
Ex MR2 Roadster, Sahara Sun, Black Leather, Air Con, TTE exhaust

loadswine

#28
Yep, notice my newer ones are at the rear where the weight of the engine is.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
No Roadster any more, Golf 7.5 GTi Performance

proeliator2001

#29
Cheers guys, mine of information as usual.   s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
Official - old git alert. 42 years old!
Facts  are meaningless - they can be used to prove anything.

2004 MR2 in silver with hardtop, leather, aircon and only 1 door handle.(11 happy years together and counting!)

Maverikk

#30
Folks, I need to jack up the rear of the car. This appears to be the correct spot (as you can see it has a healthy coating of rust, a much sought-after look in the PFL), but I am not really sure. Can anyone advise? I don't want to jack it up here if it's going to damage the car!   s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  




nathanMR2

#31
This will be fine
MR2 Roadster TTE Turbo - now sold and 2less but forever an enthusiast

Maverikk

#32
Thanks. The one in the photo on the other page was a bit unrustier than mine, so it was hard to tell!

nathanMR2

#33
It's pretty secure here depending on your jack. Just make sure you get something like axel stands or wheels underneath each side for safety if your working under the car
MR2 Roadster TTE Turbo - now sold and 2less but forever an enthusiast

Maverikk

#34
Yeah, I'll be using axel stands. Just jacking it up to remove rear wheels.

dkirkwood89

#35
Exactly what I was looking for   s:D :D s:D  

Hopefully going to get my calliper so done this weekend
2004 Red Edition, Hard Top, TRD Short Shifter, CBS CDA Induction Kit

lemans

#36
Just jacking my car up to get at the rear to do my turbo return line leak. I can't see the rear jacking point. Would I be correct in assuming it is hidden by all the plastics under the car?

So I have to take off the plastic before I can use this point?

Thanks
Daryl
Facelift Black MR2 with red leather interior. Hardtop, rear brace, SP body brace, TRD short shift, Mongo\'s,  Dev\'s & SP Turbo - 238bp, 220lbft.

lemans

#37
http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=57532&hilit=axle+stands&view=print

Just found this. So it looks like there is space in front of the rear plastic.  Will look again after I have a coffee.
Daryl
Facelift Black MR2 with red leather interior. Hardtop, rear brace, SP body brace, TRD short shift, Mongo\'s,  Dev\'s & SP Turbo - 238bp, 220lbft.

Joesson

#38
The rear central jacking point is the central engine mount bracket and can be accessed with the under trays removed.
I use a block of wood (around150x150x40mm ) interposed between jack head and bracket, this works best for me/ my jack.
The front/ central jacking point can be used with the front tray in place.
As always, caution , do not be under the car with only the jack, position the jack (block) etc. before lifting.

lemans

#39
Quote from: "Joesson"The rear central jacking point is the central engine mount bracket and can be accessed with the under trays removed.
I use a block of wood (around150x150x40mm ) interposed between jack head and bracket, this works best for me/ my jack.
The front/ central jacking point can be used with the front tray in place.
As always, caution , do not be under the car with only the jack, position the jack (block) etc. before lifting.

Thanks
Looks like the trays are coming off then!
Daryl
Facelift Black MR2 with red leather interior. Hardtop, rear brace, SP body brace, TRD short shift, Mongo\'s,  Dev\'s & SP Turbo - 238bp, 220lbft.

shnazzle

#40
I'm pretty sure there's a cutout in the nappies to get to that rear jacking point. It's so that you can get under the car to remove the nappies  s:) :) s:)
...neutiquam erro.

lemans

#41
Quote from: "shnazzle"I'm pretty sure there's a cutout in the nappies to get to that rear jacking point. It's so that you can get under the car to remove the nappies  s:) :) s:)

Yes you are correct. Now I know what I am looking for! Having taken the trays off I could see what I was looking for.  I will know next time!

You can see the engine mount through the rear "nappy" cutouts.
Daryl
Facelift Black MR2 with red leather interior. Hardtop, rear brace, SP body brace, TRD short shift, Mongo\'s,  Dev\'s & SP Turbo - 238bp, 220lbft.

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