Pesky CEL's

[Anonymous]

FYI, the genuine O2 sensors in the USA are $120 from a main dealer (about £60).  Also by-the-by, I've just ordered an OBD II reader from Gendan.  They have an offer on at the moment for readers in pre-opened packages down from £95 to £60 inc PnP.  Find it at  m http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_CLPKTSCAN.html m
I also had a P0141 but the Mr T changed bank 1 sensor 1 and charged me £250 for the trouble!  The CEL is back but as Mr T has admitted his error, I'm getting bank 1 sensor 2 FOC (hence the interest in a code reader for future problem DIY dignostics).

[carl_evs]

Wabbit, you fitted the sensor yet? How's it going? Any problems?

[Ernie Ball]

Turns out it was an O2 sensor in my case: bank 1, sensor 1.  Guy there said that's the right-hand side one on the manifold.  Is this right?  Also, any difference between the right and the left?

[Anonymous]

Bank 1 Sensor 1 is on the RHS looking forward.

[kanujunkie]

as DCS777 says its the right one Steve, the two sensors themselves are the same p/n

[Wabbitkilla]

Carl,

My replacement O2 from RockAuto seems to be a good one. Though I can only talk from a position of one days use and approx 100 miles with  4 stops. Been working away all week so no chance to do any more play. I will know after the Wales trip this weekend for certain.

On the talk of OBDII readers, whatever Gendan are charging, I bought mine off eBay for £15 and it does the job well. I found somewhere for £99 for a full Greddy reader which outputs all data from th ecu as you drive - kind of a digital dashbord job with absolutely everything about the running of the car displayable.

[carl_evs]

Thats good enough for me pal, need to get it ordered this weekend as I'm away in Belgium all next week and dont know what my chances of net access will be!! Thanks for trying it out.

Hopefully anyone else looking for sensors can go here instead of Gendan. A little more expensive but better than having to splice - and a lot better than 130 knicker!!

[Ernie Ball]

My O2 Sensor nightmare continues.  I bought one in the US no problem.  No problem, at least, until my mother threw it out!

So I bought another one online.  Installed it on the right side of the manifold (the code I was told about was Bank 1 Sensor 1) and, after an hour or so: CEL!

So I bought an OBD2 reader (was going to buy one anyway) and got the code: P0141: Bank 1, Sensor 2.

Am now on to the Mr T who told me Bank 1 Sensor 1 and they are claiming that 'it's not uncommon for O2 sensors to go out one after the other.'  I think this is improbable.

I'm already out of pocket for 2 O2 sensors.  I understand that they are all the same (correct?) but for the length of the cable.  Is there any reason why I can't simply cut the 4 leads to the existing post-cat sensor, remove it, and splice in the new sensor?  I really don't want to buy yet another O2 sensor.

[Wabbitkilla]

According to everything i've read they are exactly the same, just different length leads as you say.

IMHO that Mr T is talking [round spherical objects usually used in games such as footy, tennis, golf, cricket and such]

[Ernie Ball]

Can someone quickly give me the respective OBD2 codes for:

Bank 1, Sensor 1
Bank 2, Sensor 1?

I know that Bank 1, Sensor 2 (post-cat) is P0141.  Mr T is now going to check what the code was when I brought it in to them and I want to be armed.

[aaronjb]

Can someone quickly give me the respective OBD2 codes for:

Bank 1, Sensor 1
Bank 2, Sensor 1?

I know that Bank 1, Sensor 2 (post-cat) is P0141.  Mr T is now going to check what the code was when I brought it in to them and I want to be armed.

 m http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=12480 m

Depends what failure you want - heater circuit? P0135 P0155

[spit]

 m http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=12480 m

*edit - beaten by a better man  s:cry: :cry: s:cry:  *

[Ernie Ball]

Thanks guys.

Also, how would you go about splicing the 4 wires to a new sensor?  Just cut 'em, strip 'em and tape 'em together with electrical tape?  Or is heat going to be an issue?

Also, do I risk electrocution if I don't even unplug the sensor and snip them right there on the car?  That'd make replacement a bit easier as I wouldn't have to fuss with the cable....

[spit]

If you don't have the facility to solder them, use a decent quality terminal block. The high-temp wire doesn't strip very easily and is a bit "waxy", so take your time to ensure a good connection.

[Ernie Ball]

I've never soldered before in my life, but it might be worth doing.  Will a garden-variety soldering iron do the job?  Also: what would I be soldering to what?  Any other tips?  Or should I just not bother?

Thanks a million for your advice, all.  I appreciate it.

[spit]

The wires are a s*d to tin and solder together, so you need a reasonably decent soldering iron. If you've never soldered before, go with the terminal block approach.


Join White to white,
Blue to Blue.
Black to Black (x2)  These are not polarity-dependent so it doesn't matter which black goes to which black (if that makes sense)

[Ernie Ball]

Great advice.

Last question (I hope): terminal blocks come in all shapes and sizes.  Can you recommend one that won't cause electrical or other problems?

[aaronjb]

If it was me I'd definitely solder it - but having said that I've seen crimp connections work OK on someone elses car, and personally I'd favour those over chocolate blocks (the screw terminals shown above)



(But get a better crimp tool than that - a proper one, rather than the cheapy ones like that)

[spit]

That's way too professional  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  but yes, Aaron is right (if you can get the dman things to work properly!)

If you go the terminal block route, don't use anything too big. A strip of 5amp blocks will do the job for less than a quid (or a Euro-and-a-half to you  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  ), providing you strap 'em away from excessive heat.

Its good to have choices  s8) s8)

[Wabbitkilla]

Useful tip regarding the crimps.

Use self grips, wind them down close to zero and the crimp the crimps. Becuase the jaw size has a larger surface area they crush the crimp onto the wire much better.

That's one of my dads tips - can't beat old engineers  s8) s8)

[Ernie Ball]

Useful tip regarding the crimps.

Use self grips, wind them down close to zero and the crimp the crimps. Becuase the jaw size has a larger surface area they crush the crimp onto the wire much better.

That's one of my dads tips - can't beat old engineers  s8) s8)

What are 'self grips'?

[Wabbitkilla]

Here's a linky to give you the idea

[Ernie Ball]

Here's a linky to give you the idea

Ah.  Cross-cultural translation problem.  I call those Vise-grips.

[Wabbitkilla]

Or some people call them mole grips!
Still they do a better job than the tools that were allegedly designed for the job  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[Ernie Ball]

I've now spoken to Mr T again.  He claims the original code was a P0130, which means Bank 1, Sensor 1 (the one I replaced).

He could, of course, have simply looked up the code that suited him without actually checking the code I actually had on the day.

So, in order to test this, I've reset the ECU and put back the original sensor.  We shall see what kind of codes get thrown up now!

But I do know that the postcat sensor is out.  So two more questions:

1) Anyone know how long the leads are on the post-cat sensor?  I ask because the lead on the pre-cat sensor that I purchased is about 2-3 inches longer than the stock one it replaced: it's about 30cm from the top of the sensor to the base of the plug.  Maybe I could use this one?

2) Am I right to assume that replacement of the post-cat sensor involves removing the bumper?  Seems pretty much impossible to get to the plug/socket area though maybe things will look different if I jack up the car.