Has anyone fitted their own Tein EDFC - SOLVED :)

[Anonymous]

And whats all this softening the rear nonsense?  You should be softening the front if anything for less rear grip.  s;) s;)

Hmmmmm - That makes a lot of sense  s:?: :?: s:?:   - so you are saying all those people who have fitted the up-rated anti roll bars, which are manufactured to a reduced body roll, have wasted their money.  s:roll: :roll: s:roll:

[Anonymous]

Where'd you put the EDFC in the dashboard, Aaron?

I'm not sure if Aaron as fitted his yet, I've put mine in the top dash cupboard thingy. Out of sight but easy to access.

Rob.

[aaronjb]

Where'd you put the EDFC in the dashboard, Aaron?

I'm not sure if Aaron as fitted his yet, I've put mine in the top dash cupboard thingy. Out of sight but easy to access.

You're right Rob - I haven't fitted it yet  s:) s:)

Actually the EDFC box itself is in place - and it's in the same place as you, about 1/3rd of the way down the cubby box, easy to get at but shut the lid and it's hidden from thieving eyes  s:) s:)

[Anonymous]

And whats all this softening the rear nonsense?  You should be softening the front if anything for less rear grip.  s;) s;)

Hmmmmm - That makes a lot of sense  s:?: :?: s:?:   - so you are saying all those people who have fitted the up-rated anti roll bars, which are manufactured to a reduced body roll, have wasted their money.  s:roll: :roll: s:roll:

Point, missed!

[Anonymous]

Point, missed!

Nearly   s:D s:D    s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[ChrisGB]

Erm have I missed something here? Surely anti roll bars and spring rates are used to stiffen the ride and control roll? Damper settings are used to control damping. Roll stiffness is a product of spring rates and roll bar stiffness.

Damping should be set up to achieve maximum grip at both ends IMO, after the spring rates, roll bars and ride height are optimised. The handling balance is better adjusted by spring rates / ride heights, camber settings and of course choice of tyres. Having too stiff a damping force can make the car hop (particularly if rebound is too slow). Having this property at one end and not the other could spell disaster. Some guys on the Briskoda site have had "entertaining" moments after fitting Koni FSDs to cars where they were simply too stiff in rebound.

I am getting interested in this as I will quite possibly go the coilover route myself once the bracing is in place. The SS coilovers look good, I really like the look of the Monoflex system as well but that is a bit rich and probably OTT for mostly street use. It is going to be an expensive year either way after some git at JAE stuffed a Tein Catalogue in my hand.

Chris

[Anonymous]

Well Chris it's time to stop thinking about it and put your money on one of the best investments you can make for your car.

What you said above is true, it's a combination off all the above which gives you a good handling vehicle, some of the more pure racers will remove anti roll bars and just use spring rates / ride heights and damper settings to set a car up - talk to SP about that.

Any way you have just given a good reason to have the EDFC, it allows change while on the move to any setting at the push of a button.

You will be surprized just how many members have changed or are changing to the Tein set-up   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[ChrisGB]

Well Chris it's time to stop thinking about it and put your money on one of the best investments you can make for your car.

It is the money word that is the sticking point at the moment. I have spent out on bracing and brake lines over the last couple of months and need new tyres as well. Seriously considering Hankook RS-2 at the moment. This leaves a big hole in the bank account. Also have to make a payment on account to HMRC (AKA Cnuts) at the end of the month, so the suspension will be a little way off yet. I want to see how much stiffer the car is after bracing first. IMO, as standard the shell is already a little flexible for the stock setup. Anything harder will work the shell more. I am pretty sure the bracing will make it right enough to go stiffer.

What you said above is true, it's a combination off all the above which gives you a good handling vehicle, some of the more pure racers will remove anti roll bars and just use spring rates / ride heights and damper settings to set a car up - talk to SP about that.

Anti roll bars enable you to set up a car with good roll control and useful suspension travel in one package. If you use spring rates alone, the roll control also directly affects the ride stiffness and you can lose a lot of surface compliance to achieve the desired roll control. OK for the track, but a bit compromised for the road IMO.

Any way you have just given a good reason to have the EDFC, it allows change while on the move to any setting at the push of a button.

I like the EDFC idea, only worry for me is that it is more stuff in the car and means a simple job of bolting stuff on turns to a PITA wiring job as well. When I have run adjustables before, I set them up soft, gradually wound them up until it felt about right then tweaked settings and left them for a few days of driving before tweaking a little more. A slow process, but good results.

You will be surprized just how many members have changed or are changing to the Tein set-up   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Hope to be joining 'em as soon as I can. The Tein SS kit does look to be a really good setup for reasonable cash. Cant see a better option out there.

Anyone know what the stock spring rates are by the way?

Chris

[bozak]

Here are some spring rates that i have found:

------------------------------Front---Rear (N/mm)
Stock------------------------14.7---23.5
Swift-------------------------15.0---28.0
TTE---------------------------17.0---27.5
TRD Sportivo---------------15.6---33.6
TRD WayDo-----------------23.4---46.2
TRD Competition-----------34.3---49.0
Tein Super-------------------29.4---58.9
Tein S Tech------------------18.7---28.4
Tein H Tech------------------16.7---25.5
Tein progressive (low)-----13.7---18.6
Tein progressive (high)----25.5---37.3

[BTW The figures are expressed in N/mm (Newtons per millimetre) for those who prefer kg*f/mm: just divide by 9.81.]