Aaron gets blown (or, the Top Secret Turbo Kit thread)

[markiii]

the bend ended up fitting perfectly  :-) :-) :-)  with no rubbing

however it's so close to teh turbo that the first test run almost caused it to catch fire  :-) :-) :-)

[Anonymous]

 s:shock: :shock: s:shock:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[aaronjb]

I believe our words were "can you smell burning?", "Yeah.. oh it's gone now, must be from someone else.."

[aaronjb]

Well as I think I posted elsewhere, I lost all four manifold->turbo nuts the other week, and one of the replacements kept insisting on dropping off, so..

This weekend I went up to Mark's, and we spent some of the day removing the manifold, turbo and downpipe (actually quite a quick process, all told) because I knew I'd blown out the gasket.

I didn't think it was this bad, however:


Yes, that's all that was left of the gasket. Half of it. Whoops. Still, I guess when you're popping flames out of the leak, that's not surprising!


We replaced the four nuts after tightening the studs, and added Nissan locking plates (standard fit on the SR20DET & VG30DETT engines) to stop the nuts backing off), and while the turbo was off I also took the opportunity to wind some preload back onto the actuator to help it build boost more quickly and hit a higher peak.


I'm now seeing a peak of 10psi, and I'm using the boost controller to ramp boost as quickly as possibly by holding the pressure off the actuator completely until ~4000rpm.


Shiznit it got fast. Even 6th gear is turning into a pretty rapid gear.. 1st & 2nd are brutal, 3rd and 4th are pretty awesome, 5th and 6th are rapid. 80-100 happens very fast, even in 6th (hey, sometimes you need to escape BMW-idiot).


It now needs;

More ignition advance off-boost.
Less fuel on-boost (10:1 is far too rich for this engine).
Zero cam overlap >4000rpm and a properly set up VVT map.

[Tem]

I'm now seeing a peak of 10psi, and I'm using the boost controller to ramp boost as quickly as possibly by holding the pressure off the actuator completely until ~4000rpm.

How did you do that?  s:D s:D

More ignition advance off-boost.

I was basically using the N/A map that came with the PFC for off-boost cells.

Less fuel on-boost (10:1 is far too rich for this engine).

WHOA! That really is way too rich. Try some 11.5 if you want to be on the safe side. Or some 12.5 if you want to go for the power.  s;) s;)  I think your CC should keep the temps low enough to handle that just fine.

Zero cam overlap >4000rpm and a properly set up VVT map.

Overlap actually helps the turbo to spool up earlier and make more power with higher revs. Might wanna try leaving some overlap instead of taking it all away.

[Anonymous]

Looks like you are making progress!    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:

[MR2 super GT]

Hey Aaron
what way do you have the flow of water going through the CC?

do you think it would make a difference if you had a parallel flow with the air intake compared to a counter flow?

or does the air go through it that fast it wouldnt make a difference?

[Tem]

Hey Aaron
what way do you have the flow of water going through the CC?

do you think it would make a difference if you had a parallel flow with the air intake compared to a counter flow?

or does the air go through it that fast it wouldnt make a difference?

I've read that it should flow against the airflow. Here's the reasoning why.

1) Both flowing in the same direction. When hot air enters the cooler, it meets cold water and cools down. As it advances, the air keeps getting cooler while the water keeps getting hotter. In the end the air has cooled down some, but the water is too warm to cool the air anymore.

2) Water flowing against the air. When hot air enters the cooler, it meets warm water, which is still a lot cooler than hot air, which cools down. As it advances, the cooler air keeps getting colder water, which keeps cooling the air even more, cause the temperature difference stays bigger for longer than in 1).


No idea how big that difference is in degrees though.

[MR2 super GT]

thanks TEM I has suspected that was the best way but was not sure

[aaronjb]

My spokesman has already spoken, I see..   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Yeah - that's the way round we have mine plumbed, too, and the way the guy who runs chargecooler.co.uk reccommends too.

[aaronjb]

Oh - I put the track wheels on the car yesterday.. here seems as good a place as any to photo-whore:

[MR2 super GT]

looking tasty aaron, hows the whole set up going for you?  have you had it on the rollers ?

[aaronjb]

Nope, it's not been on the rollers.. it's working OK aside from the few teething troubles it's had, pulls well and makes good power.. I'd say not as much as the Hass/C2 at the moment but that's down to the tune being overly conservative.

It's probably not going to make it onto the rollers, though.. 'life' is happening at an alarming rate at the moment, so there's a very good chance it'll be back to stock and everything will be getting sold off before it's next MOT in April.

[Anonymous]

looks great, but just wish you'd get that 'ding' on the offside rear sorted   s:D s:D  
I've just been 'carparked', dent and scuff, no problem mate, 75 quid, so in it goes on Monday (the dent man comes in on Mondays and Fridays).

[aaronjb]

Oh there's more than just the one ding - there's two in the rear arch and a big crease in the door that you can't see in the photo.. someone decided to 'touch park' next to me in an NCP in Sheffield.. it took them three attempts, but I presume they managed it in the end.

[Anonymous]

Lifes a bitch   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[aaronjb]

Thought it was about time I resurrected this..

One new minor snag - another nut has dropped off the turbo->downpipe joint (silly spring washers).. still, that's not so bad - I'd fix that right now if it wasn't for the fact it's all roasting hot and it'd melt my fingers  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[custardavenger]

Time for some locking wire then?

[aaronjb]

Nah I'll just replace the plain nuts with .. erm.. I forget the name, but I have a bag of 'em somewhere  s:) s:)   This is the first time the turbo->downpipe ones have moved in probably 20,000 miles (unlike the manifold->turbo ones that came off every 5,000 until I added the Nissan locking plates)  s:) s:)

Hopefully I've caught it before it blew a hole in the gasket, but we'll see.. if not I'll have some fiddly-ass nuts to undo tomorrow!

[Tem]

another nut has dropped off the turbo->downpipe joint

Interesting. I just noticed I seem to have a leak somewhere from the sound and noticed 3 of those nuts were gone and the 4th was loose.  s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  

That was roughly a week ago. And I'm pretty sure it was cause by excessive backpressure (or the heat related to it), cause they were there few days earlier when I put one of these in:
 m http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-MM-JD ... ccessories m

[aaronjb]

Interesting theory Tem - I've not done anything to mine recently, though, so I suspect it's just down to heat cycles - either that or the gasket has broken down (which leads to the joint going loose, of course).  Fortunately that's the easy joint to get to!

(BTW, I've been looking for a bung like that for ages.. nice find  s:) s:) )

[aaronjb]

So.. what I thought was a blown gasket turned out to be this:



In case you can't spot it - that's a split weld in the manifold and it's almost 100% in two halves there.  In fact, looking at it from more angles, it looks like the pipes no longer quite line up so I wonder if repeated heat cycles have relieved some stresses and eventually the stress overcame the weld.

Either way I'm now driving around with a stock manifold and Top Secret exhaust (which has essentially no silencer) which is insanely loud, oh and no power because the timing is still all retarded & rich with the 'turbo' tune in the PFC..

[ChrisGB]

The way that has parted company, it looks like it was under stress when it was made and has found a way to settle. Any way of setting it up with a cast manifold? I have seen them for sale for the 1zz somewhere, but cannot recall where.

Chris

[Tem]

Either way I'm now driving around with a stock manifold and Top Secret exhaust (which has essentially no silencer) which is insanely loud, oh and no power because the timing is still all retarded & rich with the 'turbo' tune in the PFC..

I tried it once too and I'm not sure the Top Secret exhaust actually has a silencer or a loudener.  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

You could just use the default PFC map, if you have your tune saved with Datalogit..

The way that has parted company, it looks like it was under stress when it was made and has found a way to settle. Any way of setting it up with a cast manifold? I have seen them for sale for the 1zz somewhere, but cannot recall where.

You can get the cast manifolds from eBay. You'd need a custom downpipe to go with it and change the air piping too. And it looks like it would actually be worse, though it might last forever.

It's easy to reweld the TS manifold though, anyone with the skills&equipment should be able to do it. I'd go for that and I did when mine cracked..  s8) s8)

[Wabbitkilla]

Ouch .... and there i thought the TS manifold was such a work of art!

Looks like the tansion has won the day there, but getting it cleaned up and welded again should sort it as the tension will have gone out of th joint when it's re-wenlded.