Aaron gets blown (or, the Top Secret Turbo Kit thread)

[Anonymous]

If only that gauge showed PSI  s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:

[philster_d]

Did it also come with a seperate controller Aaron? or is that built into the gauge?

[aaronjb]

There's a controller - it's just a sort of bulbous plastic thing sprouting out of the middle of the wires though, not a large box of tricks like the LM-1

[edit] Here's the controller:

If only that gauge showed PSI  s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:

There are changeable faces that do.. but, I have one of these for that:



Actually those are in the other car - I'll probably get white faced ones for the '2, I think at least a Boost/EGT and Oil Pressure/Temp:

[spynish]

Hi Aaron,

Do you think that gauge will fit nicely in front of the rpm stock gauge or is too big?

You mean like this


I like it, but not everyones' taste.

Yup, that's it.
A bit smaller would be ideal. Have been told that is possible to use differente gauges to plug the Innovaet wideband. Any idea of one that works and is 52mm?

Thank you for the pic, Aaron

[Tem]

A bit smaller would be ideal. Have been told that is possible to use differente gauges to plug the Innovaet wideband. Any idea of one that works and is 52mm?

Innovate has two programmable outputs, so basically you can run any gauge with it that works with a maximum voltage of 5V.

However, do NOT get a narrowband gauge for the Innovate. You might as well run it from a narrowband sensor, cause it won't be correct anyway.


...have you checked the new analog Innovate gauges, if you're looking for a cheaper solution?

[aaronjb]

...have you checked the new analog Innovate gauges, if you're looking for a cheaper solution?

They look really nice, I think - I nearly went for a secondhand LM-1 and the analogue guage..

[spynish]

I had not realized this one from Innovate is 52mm. I like it   s8) s8)  :

[philster_d]

I have everything there except the gauge I will use the prophec for that

[aaronjb]

I started fitting the LC-1 this lunchtime - I had hoped to get it at least wired in to the stock ECU, but it took a lot longer than I thought it would to run the wires through the grommet into the car (I hate wiring on cars!).

Anyone see any issues with my location for the controller? Options are, sadly, somewhat limited  s:? :? s:?

[edit] Before I started I snipped the black (calibrate) wire and covered it with heat shrink - since the XD-16 guage and Copilot, both of which can initiate a calibrate via the serial interface, I don't need this wire:


Turns out the battery stay works quite nicely as a 'puller' and 'hole poker' for the grommet:


Although you need to slit the grommet slightly or there's no hope of getting the (rather giant) serial plugs through - I think I used half a roll of electrical tape taping wires to things to pull through:


The controller ended up here - I wanted it on the main crossmember where the latch is, but without the drip tray in place it would be right under the rain, so that's out:


The wires got cable tied to the bootlid alarm sensor, then to the fusebox wires, and they then run straight forward into the grommet:


Comments?

[SteveJ]

I've taken the wires for mine back through the grommet on the drivers side, with the controller strapped to the back of the charcoal canister to shield it a little from the heat - I think where yours is it will get a bit toasty-warm once the turbo goes in  s:flame: :flame: s:flame:

[markiii]

good point

[aaronjb]

Yeah - but when the turbo goes in the controller will likely have to move anyway  s;) s;)  The O2 sensor will be about 6" to the left and 4" down from the position of B1S1 (which it'll currently be plugged into).

At that point there should be latitude to move the controller down onto the inner wing on the left where it'll be more out of the way (and can even be wrapped in heat protector stuff)

[aaronjb]

Ow, ow.. burnt fingers.. ow.. stupid soldering iron!

*blows on fingers some more*

 s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

[custardavenger]

When using a soldering iron. Hold the cold plastic end, not the hot pointy metal end.

[Tem]

I thought it would to run the wires through the grommet into the car (I hate wiring on cars!).

Oh you did it like that. There's plenty of room for extra wiring through the grommet where the stock wires go, so you don't have to make any extra holes. Take the whole plastic grommet out, just push it either way, this makes it a lot easier to push stuff through it. Use some lubricant on the wires, like silicone spray, or soap. Then you can just push it through. And just push the grommet back in its place when you're done.

I might be forgetting something, but currently I have at least these through the original hole. Sensor wires for 6 GReddy gauges, control wires and vacuum(/pressure) hose for the Profec, wires for Innovate wideband, wires for water injection and water spray and a thick power cable for audiostuff. And it doesn't even feel tight yet, even when pushing some biggish connectors through it. The rubber stretches quite a lot, as long as it's not in the hole at the time.

Anyone see any issues with my location for the controller? Options are, sadly, somewhat limited  s:? :? s:?

Like Steve already said, I bet it would die quite soon on that place. Heat is a major issue. I wouldn't keep it there even when you're still N/A.  s:? :? s:?

[aaronjb]

I tried getting the grommet itself out - but I couldn't get it out of the firewall  s:? :? s:?

Like Steve already said, I bet it would die quite soon on that place. Heat is a major issue. I wouldn't keep it there even when you're still N/A.  s:? :? s:?

Hmm - I don't see anywhere else it can go though  s:? :? s:?  Not without me extending every single wire, that is - I'd have to extend both serial lines and all of the signal & power wires.. the wires are only about 100cm long - there's maybe 10-20cm inside the car at the moment..

[SteveJ]

I tried getting the grommet itself out - but I couldn't get it out of the firewall  s:? :? s:?

Like Steve already said, I bet it would die quite soon on that place. Heat is a major issue. I wouldn't keep it there even when you're still N/A.  s:? :? s:?

Hmm - I don't see anywhere else it can go though  s:? :? s:?  Not without me extending every single wire, that is - I'd have to extend both serial lines and all of the signal & power wires.. the wires are only about 100cm long - there's maybe 10-20cm inside the car at the moment..

I've taken my wires through the grommet on the drivers side, and extended the power and NB signal wires. Serial is easy - it's just a standard 3.5mm stereo headphone connector - prewired extension leads can be found at Maplin etc for a couple of quid. You only need to extend the serial out - serial in just needs the terminating plug in it (unless the XD16 needs it). As I said above, my WB controller is attached to the back of the carbon canister to give it a bit of protection from the radiated heat from the exhaust (doesnt seem to get too hot, even on track).

[aaronjb]

Hmm.. Damn you people  s;) s;)

Ok - I have to pull it out now (the LC-1, you deviants!) and reroute.. I was going to do that this lunchtime but I have to go into the office now  s:( s:(

Ah well - it's going to be good weather at the weekend, at least - maybe I'll finally get this thing installed  s;) s;)


I'm not sure the wire from the sensor will reach the LC-1 if I mount it where yours is Steve - or rather it will when NA, but not when turbo (the O2 sensor hole is on the other side of the car), but perhaps I can find somewhere else cool & protected when I have the back bumper off at the weekend.

[SteveJ]

I'm not sure the wire from the sensor will reach the LC-1 if I mount it where yours is Steve - or rather it will when NA, but not when turbo (the O2 sensor hole is on the other side of the car), but perhaps I can find somewhere else cool & protected when I have the back bumper off at the weekend.

  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  I meant to ask where your post-turbo bung would end up  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

What about somewhere behind the coolant bottle heat-shield (but away from the bottle  s;) s;)  ) ?

[aaronjb]

That would definitely work post-turbo yep - the post-turbo bung will end up over the left hand side - roughly where B2S1 is, but a few inchest further down.

I think it's going to be hard to find somewhere that will work both before and after the turbo goes on thinking about it - as the sensors are on opposite sides of the engine bay.

Hopefully I can find somewhere that works and won't require me to put cables through firewalls to move everything - seeing as that's the bit I really hate doing  s:) s:)

[Tem]

I tried getting the grommet itself out - but I couldn't get it out of the firewall  s:? :? s:?

There's a groove in the rubber, which goes to the edge of the metal hole. Just push one side inwards (towards the center, where the wires go that is) and the rest should come off easily.

[aaronjb]

I tried that - mine was very stiff (ooer).. Either that or I'm exceptionally weak  s:) s:)

Ok the latter is a possibility..

I'll give it another bash at the weekend I think - now to go and cut a zillion cable ties and pull it all back out!

[Anonymous]

Aaron, just to add a quick aside here, if you want one of those gauges that you showed on the previous page give me a shout first, I've got an unused one sat in a box still that I never got round to fitting. I believe it's an oil temp/pressure one, but I'll have to check. I think it's white faced too, but again will have to check.

[aaronjb]

Aaron, just to add a quick aside here, if you want one of those gauges that you showed on the previous page give me a shout first, I've got an unused one sat in a box still that I never got round to fitting. I believe it's an oil temp/pressure one, but I'll have to check. I think it's white faced too, but again will have to check.

The SPA ones?

Dan I wub you. Wub you long time. Did I ever mention that?  s;) s;)

[Anonymous]

Yup, the SPA ones. I only bought it on your recommendation anyway!  s:lol: :lol: s:lol: