Car fixed, now need tyres and downpipe

Started by pauljb, April 4, 2008, 10:28

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ChrisGB

#50
Quote from: "nelix"Surely the main cat will be full of oil?

Cannot see why? A highish oil consumption will have had some oil going down the exhaust system, but if the OP is lucky, most of it will have been burnt in the precat area. I have a suspicion that the reason the precats crumble is that the oil gets on them and then burns at much higher temperature than the CO and NO that they would normally be dealing with.

If the precats crumble, you have all the bits getting struck at the start of the matrix and blocking the main cat. If the precats are still in place, there should be no physical blockage.

At the temperature a catalyst works at, there will be no evidence of oil gunge . What could have happened though, is that phosphorous compounds from the oil may have poisoned the main cat, so although it will flow gas without problems, the catalyst itself will not work to eliminate the CO and NO from the exhaust gas, thus leading to MOT failure. Worth noting that some 5W30 oils are specially formulated to have very low phosphate content, so may not have poisoned the cat.

Obviously, the more new bits supplied the better, but if the OP is going to be paying for some of the bits himself, best to only fix the broke bits.

Chris
Ex 2GR-FE roadster. Sold it. Idiot.  Now Jaguar XE-S 380. Officially over by the bins.

Anonymous

#51
I think it's difficult to make any assumptions at the moment, the pre-cats could have failed recently which means the main cat could be contaminated - a lot of unknowns, but at least he's got the ball rolling with a basic block replacement - we hope.

Rob

phillywilly69

#52
i had same problem with my y reg mr2.it went low on oil first ,then 1000 miles later started drinking oil and rattling
after reading this forum went to mr t and was given a new engine
its worth a try
runs beautifully now

Wabbitkilla

#53
Mate, you're stating that it's running like a diesel has used a couple of litres of oil in a short length of time AND say it's running fine?

We've seen this recently, a member ruined his big end bearings by running dry and had to have them replaced, found one of the bearings had WELDED itself to the crank and had to have it reground. When all was done and dusted he'd spent almost the price of a second hand engine.

From the combined knowledge on here, we're suggestiong you have pre-cat failure and excessive oil usage problems added to a highly likely big end failure. There's really little more to discuss other than how you fix it or replace it. If you have the time and facilities i'd recommend taking the engine out and stripping the top and bottom ends off to have a proper look. Have a look at the pre-cats (both ends) and have a look at the main cat. In fact you could probably stip the top & bottom off in situ.

But everyone here thinks you have a major problem requiring serious engine work and a new main catalyst. Plus either removing the pre-cats or replacing the manifold with an after-market option which doesn't carry the dreaded beasts.
Cute & fluffy animals were definitely hurt during the production of this post, there're plenty more where they came from
Aztec Bronze S2 Elise 111S
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Wabbitkilla

#54
Duh! Nic should read through the thread completely before proceeding to insert foot in aural orifice.

Let me apologise and read that all again.  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Cute & fluffy animals were definitely hurt during the production of this post, there're plenty more where they came from
Aztec Bronze S2 Elise 111S
Campovolo Grey Abarth 595 Competizione

Wabbitkilla

#55
Haha.... erm yessss .... whibble.

What i'd recommend is to have them do the repair and then test emmissions to assess if the main cat is dud. Still need to check the precats at both ends i reckon though - just to be sure.

If emmissions are ok and the engine revs and drives well then you may be ok. If' immissions are bad or the engine doesn't perform as expected then there's a likelihood that the main cat and probably the precats are stuffed. That'll be something else the need to repair / replace.
Cute & fluffy animals were definitely hurt during the production of this post, there're plenty more where they came from
Aztec Bronze S2 Elise 111S
Campovolo Grey Abarth 595 Competizione

pauljb

#56
Hi guys,

Just an update and want a few opinions.

Well good news, i got my car fixed under toyota extended warrenty dispite no having full toyota service history. Have to give it to the guys at charles hurst toyota in newtownabbey, they were very good and did fight my corner for me with toyota. They where very helpful. Unlike the main dealers in belfast! However thats besidet the point.

Am not mechanical minded so bear with me. The guys said they replace the whole bottom of the engine including the cranks and pistons etc. not sure what else was included in that. The guy said it was caused as the car ran out of oil. Which was mostly. However it was only just service and was filled with oil. I mentioned piston rings (supposed known problem with these engines, the guy at toyota said) and pre cats, they werent to keen to comment on these things. I said y was the oil consumption so high. THe toyota people said that it will use about 1 litre of oil in 1,000 miles and that the engine does have very high consumption of oil. Is this true?

Also what do you guys thing i should do with my pre-cats? How many of you guys actually have them taken out? will it pass MOT?

Cheers

Anonymous

#57
I take it they didnt replace the main cat, check your precats now, if they are damaged your main cat is fubar.

Anonymous

#58
Yes it will pass an MOT with them out, the good thing is everything should be easy to undo as they have been removed to fit your engine - get the pre-cats out before you have problems again - remember your old engine was using oil so therefore your pre-cats are contaminated and they will fall apart with time.

Rob.

pauljb

#59
Hi guys i was wondering if you can take a look at these photos. i got my car back and the engine looks put only strangely, i cant remeber it sitting like it is. It has two what looks like holes for bolts sitting out and there is sharp and clean metal edges which look as if they where in the engine or something before but not exposed like they are know.

Going to put up on photo bucket. Will post links asap will be good if you can have a look and comment.

Cheers

 m http://s285.photobucket.com/albums/ll76/pauljb1/ m

see if that link works cheers

Anonymous

#60
Nothing to worry about, here's mine for reference  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  



Thanks
Rob

pauljb

#61
Cool cool. Thanks i was worried for a second.

Where did you get that nice heatshield?

Only problem with my car is that i have to drive it under 4000 rpm to break the engine in.

I mentioned what they replaced, but would they have replaced the piston rings when replacing all the other parts? What do you think?

Anonymous

#62
It comes with this



If they have fitted a short block, then all your pistons, rings, crank etc etc have been replaced with either new or recon. No need to worry just get those pre-cats out asap.

Rob

pauljb

#63
Hi folks,

First just like to say thanks for all the help in my time of trouble. I managed to get a whole new short block under the 7 year extend warrenty. However i have to drive my car now as if its new, keeping revs below 4,000 rpm   s:( :( s:(  

Now i have my car back, i need to address a few problems.

Firstly i need a new set of 4 tyres. I read through the forum and what people thought about all the tyres however i am still not sure what to pick. So far from waht i can see the following are the most popular.


Toyo T1-R
Bridgestone S03
Bridgestone RE040
Hankook RS-2

Which one of these will give me the best grip, handle for my money? Remembering that i have the orginal 15" alloys. I would need one with a hard side wall. The toyo seems good for the money, however some say they great some say otherwise. what is true. also what aobut goodyear f1s?

Secondly, sorry for all the questions guys. As my engine is fixed i was interested in get rid of the pre cats. I was thinking of buying a down pipe to remove them. Che does one at £150, is it any good? or does any one have other recommendations, i.e. gut out pre cats and just buy a che exhaust? Or is there any other downpipes out there or any one wanting to sell me one. Thanks

P.s. can we change the title of the post to maybe tyres and downpipes or something.

Thanks again

pauljb

#64
Cars!
Anyone? No!
Cars!
Anyone? No!
Cars!

pauljb

#65
Cars!
Anyone? No!
Cars!
Anyone? No!
Cars!

SimonC_Here

#66
Quote from: "pauljb"Toyo T1-R
Bridgestone S03
Bridgestone RE040
Hankook RS-2

Which one of these will give me the best grip, handle for my money? Remembering that i have the orginal 15" alloys. I would need one with a hard side wall. The toyo seems good for the money, however some say they great some say otherwise. what is true. also what aobut goodyear f1s?
Deferent people, different need/expectations from the tires. I loved the S03's when they were made but I'm still happy with my Toyos. Pick a set and see if you like them.

Quote from: "pauljb"Secondly, sorry for all the questions guys. As my engine is fixed i was interested in get rid of the pre cats. I was thinking of buying a down pipe to remove them. Che does one at £150, is it any good? or does any one have other recommendations, i.e. gut out pre cats and just buy a che exhaust? Or is there any other downpipes out there or any one wanting to sell me one. Thanks

P.s. can we change the title of the post to maybe tyres and downpipes or something.

Thanks again

Plenty of info about the Che. but the precats are in the manifold, not the downpipe?


You can edit the first post I think and change the title.
Simon

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