Project Custard - Gearbox issues

Started by custardavenger, May 12, 2008, 18:16

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custardavenger

#25
Quote from: "aaronjb"That does look nice  s:) :) s:)

Now can you make me one of these:

 m http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJ4UmtD15UE m

 s:) :) s:)

Ah Man. Thats soo cool.

Was thinking of something like that but with a screen but realise I don't have the time or knowlege to set up that kind of system (in car PC). And it won't make my car faster or handle better so will have to wait.
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custardavenger

#26
Quote from: "kanujunkie"
Quote from: "custardavenger"
Quote from: "kanujunkie"nice machineing is more to the point

Yeah I am quite proud of it. Like one of the guys at work said its a shame to paint it, but they're just too shinny.

why not just spray it with a matt laquer then?

Nah it's not quite perfect enough. To my shame I did the fixing holes on the A/F guage mount a tad deep and they just show. Should not be as noticable when black. An I like making my car more black.. Would love to get rid of more of the chrome if I could
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kanujunkie

#27
fair do's, you know what would look good, sand blast it and then get it anodised or etched black
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

custardavenger

#28
Do you sand blast before anodising? I know own a sand blaster so could do that myself. Not sure where to get something anodised or etched. Will save that for if it doesn't work or if I ever take the dash off again. The car has to be back on the road this weekend.
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kanujunkie

#29
not sure tbh  s:? :? s:?   just thought the effect would be good, you definatley cant sand blast after thats for sure
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

markiii

#30
looking good  :-) :-) :-)
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

custardavenger

#31
Weekend 3

Ok so Got back on Friday, Drove straight to Mr T and picked up injector seals. Got them fitted and no leaks this time. I'm guessing that the guy who uninstalled the kit swaped the orings for the originals.

Saturday morning I went over to see my mate Jody for some cheap Toyo's. Was there 3 hours while he tried to fit them but they just wouldn't pop onto the rim. Gonna have to speak to Demon Tweaks and see if they'll tell me how they fitted them last time.
Spent the rest of the afternoon fitting the dash

Spent Sunday wiring everything in properly

Monday. Started haveing a bad day and broke my jigsaw (Why do Bosch jigsaw not cut straight?) My Mate Lee came over with scope and we looked at comander screen. decided it would be safe to connect it and did. Woo Hoo Light and writing, But oh, wait, only half of it is working. Bugger. Checked oll the joints and even managed to remove the screen with out having to do the whole dash again but still no joy. Have decided it is either a dodgy screen, or I've knackerd the Comander. Lee has the original screen at the moment and is gonna do some research into it, but I will reconnect the old screen at some point to see what's wrong.

Comander question. Are they car specific? I think I might buy a spare.

Ok so tuesday and it's of to TTS for a Dyno. The car was driving ok and what with the mimeted infor from the comander I noticed knock got to 56. Does anyone know whats acceptable?
So three hours on the Dyno and olot of head scratching over what the various datalogit settings meant we got to some sort of state of tune.

Final run 206.5 BHP @6587 rpm and 176 Ft/lb @5420 rpm.

Its definately not a final tune and Richard thinks that with more time (and a better understanding of the Datalogit software) 220 - 225 BHP may be possible.

So on the way home it start stalling on idle and is also drinking fuel. Would do a reset on the PFC again but can't get to those functions on the comander. Looks like I'll be spending even more on tuning.

Pics and video coming soon.
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aaronjb

#32
Can't remember if Commanders are car specific or not - I think they might be (Nengun would be able to get you one).

On knock - it depends on the car as some sensors are more sensitive than others, but Apexi set the warning light at 60.  On my car over 40 is 'getting bad' but still not audible knock (without det cans, anyway), and keeping it under 25 is pretty easy with a good tune.
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

markiii

#33
Quote from: "aaronjb"Can't remember if Commanders are car specific or not - I think they might be (Nengun would be able to get you one).

knowing apexi probably, they don't seem to follow common standards between cars
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

custardavenger

#34
Cheers aaron

knock didn't go over 30 on the dyno.

Who is this Nengun of who you speak?
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aaronjb

#35
 m http://www.nengun.com/ m

Not the quickest supplier in the world, but reliable

In fact:  m http://www.nengun.com/apexi/power-fc-hand-commander m
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

custardavenger

#36
Wow. Not cheap are they.
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aaronjb

#37
The commander or Nengun?  The answer is probably no to both, though  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

Commanders appear on eBay from time to time for £99 (I think the newest model commander works for us - you can probably find your part number on the commander anyway), so still not cheap even that way.
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

custardavenger

#38
Fair enough will keep my nose on ebay till I know whether mines screwed or not.

Did you recon the PFC reset will sort the tickover issue?
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aaronjb

#39
It may do - assuming hot idle is tuned right (took me ages to get it to idle right, and even then I gave up before it was "right" and made it idle at 1000rpm just to stop it from stalling) you might need to dump the map, reset the PFC and reload the map then re-do the idle learn process..  you really need to do that whenever you make any large map changes.

You have a datalogit, I take it?
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

custardavenger

#40
Yeah I do. I don't think you can use it to reset though? Are you using Datalogit software with yours or Copilot? I am  just looking at copilot to see if it's better.
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custardavenger

#41
Ok so pics of the dash







And a vid of the Dyno
(sorry about it being sideways, I keep doing that)

Click here to watch Supercharged-MR2-Dyno
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aaronjb

#42
Dash looks cool  s:) :) s:)

And yeah - idle learn procedure is:

Fire up FC-Edit, save current map somewhere safe (very important, that bit  s;) ;) s;) )
Tools->Initialise Power-FC
Ignition OFF
Ignition On
Open the map you saved
Click Write All
Click Read All and make sure nothing changes
Ignition Off
Start car (from cold)
Idle 10 mins no accessories
Idle 10 mins with heated rear screen on
Idle 10 mins with A/C and heated screen on
Stop car
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

custardavenger

#43
Cheers Again

Another question/s you might be able to answer

The Datalogit maps ar shown rpm/Airflow. Can they be changed to rpm/TPS?

Also is there a way of highlighting you position on the map in real time?

I'm trying to work out if the Copilot software has this.
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aaronjb

#44
That's actually "Load" in the maps, which is a function of airflow and RPM - and no, it can't be changed.. Making it RPM/TPS would make no sense as you can end up in quite a high load cell with a relatively low throttle angle given the right circumstances.

Map trace in FC-Edit is under Window->Map Watch, then in the new window Log->Start Log and View->Map Trace.  Alter what you want shown in the cells - say TPS, for example..

Copilot will also map trace, but does it in a much nicer fashion.

Horses for courses really - I like FC-Edit if I'm starting from scratch, making big global map changes (which I'll calculate with Excel), or changing stuff in the Settings tabs, but if I'm not "by hand" mapping I'll use Copilot and it's excellent autotune features to fine-tune fuelling or ignition timing.
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

custardavenger

#45
AH. I mention it because Richard was having trouble mapping it at first as he said (I may have got this wrong) That he would normaly map with the throttle in a held position and the dyno doing a stepped rpm rise. Of course when we tried this the trace went off at a diagonal rather than along one line of cells. I'm not too sure on all of this and will have to do some studying. Why can't these things be simple?
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custardavenger

#46
Quick post of some Dyno runs

Standard with K&N


Rotrex, Janspeed and RPS flywheel.
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custardavenger

#47
And so for an update.

I had someone point out to me that the BOV isn't actually doing anything. I adjusted it so that it started working but then it was just pouring fuel into the engine so put it back. Have contacted Richard at TTS and he says that this will not damage the rotrex so am gonna keep it like this unless it gets in the way of the Sorting out the mapping problems I have.

And so to my mapping problems.
Having still not got an invite to the datalogit forum I'm still in the dark on a few aspects of programing. I have tried Copilot but have so far not been able to get it to connect (haven't had much time to spend on this either yet). The main problems I have are fuel economy and Knock. I believe that the MAP sensor is in the wrong place and am looking at moving it to infront of the throttle body. I think that when the I am on low throttle the supercharger is viblating the air in the MAF giving a false reading and so the ECU is dumping a load more fuel in. When the BOV was working the supercharger continues to pump air through the MAF and out the BOV. This also happens at high speed. Not sure about other gears but at over 3500rpm in 5th the A/F drops to 10>.

As for the Knock I had 130 the otherday but I am not sure when it is occuring. I believe it is at high speed but untill I can get some logging sorted out I will never know for sure. It is however not something that happend very often so I'm not too worried.
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custardavenger

#48
Ok so latest tuning mod.




So I've been learning to tune. I was concentrating on getting my AFR's right, then decided to have a go at the knock I had noticed at high revs. Afr's are fine so retarded the ign. Helped for the lower cells but still have massive Knock at 6400/6800. Noticed the intake pipe was getting hot so am gonna leave it till after friday when the MAF is moved. I may go back to the plan of charge cooling or look at other ways to keep heat from parts I want o keep cold.

Also the ACT HD clutch turned up today so will be fitting that this weekend too as well as many other jobs.
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aaronjb

#49
What kind of knock levels, Rob, and what kind of intake temperatures?

Care to post a screenshot of your ignition map?

I see ~55C and the highest knock I've seen was about 40 on this current tank of fuel, previous to that it was stead at 29 (dodgy batch of fuel, it seems - but then I am only running Sainsbury 97RON!)
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

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