Induction temperatures

Started by Anonymous, May 18, 2008, 15:55

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DannyN

#25
Been out to stockport and back today and I remembered to check my air intke temp.

Started car - 18 DegC
Motorway driving - between 24 - 26 DegC
Sat at home on the drive with the engine running for over 15 minutes and never got above 27 DegC

The max for the little trip was 28 DegC which was stopped at a set of light just after getting off the motorway
Quote from: \"DannyN\"There are 10 types of people in the world,
Those who understand Binary and those that don\'t...

[size=75]Black 51 165 BHP - Hardtop ON - Teins - Apexi Power FC - AEM Induction (Cleaned) - Crower Cams - Forged Pistons - Iridium Plugs - Zero Manifold - SP Downpipe - H&S - TRD SS - Corkys MSMB - Goodridge - \'03 Vents - Devs - Bamas - Crystal Indies - Mongos.
[/size]

Wabbitkilla

#26
Right that's it i'm going to get a custome air box / scoop fab'd up to get colder air to the filter.

I supposed i could fit a cooling element in too if space permits
Cute & fluffy animals were definitely hurt during the production of this post, there're plenty more where they came from
Aztec Bronze S2 Elise 111S
Campovolo Grey Abarth 595 Competizione

Anonymous

#27
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Right that's it i'm going to get a custome air box / scoop fab'd up to get colder air to the filter.

I supposed i could fit a cooling element in too if space permits

Hey Nic have you seen those nitrogen cooling systems you can buy from DT - interesting but vey expensive.

DannyN

#28
I've spent all day in the car with a mixture of pootling, motorwaying, bit of thrashing, stationary at traffic ligths and stop start in and out of warrington and I've not got over 28 DegC.

And today is a warm, if a little windy, up here.


One thought I did have (I might get flamed here for being daft) was how do we know if the calibration is correct?

Could I be getting temps in the 30s and only recording a 26 ?
Quote from: \"DannyN\"There are 10 types of people in the world,
Those who understand Binary and those that don\'t...

[size=75]Black 51 165 BHP - Hardtop ON - Teins - Apexi Power FC - AEM Induction (Cleaned) - Crower Cams - Forged Pistons - Iridium Plugs - Zero Manifold - SP Downpipe - H&S - TRD SS - Corkys MSMB - Goodridge - \'03 Vents - Devs - Bamas - Crystal Indies - Mongos.
[/size]

Wabbitkilla

#29
Quote from: "FGRob"
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Right that's it i'm going to get a custome air box / scoop fab'd up to get colder air to the filter.

I supposed i could fit a cooling element in too if space permits

Hey Nic have you seen those nitrogen cooling systems you can buy from DT - interesting but vey expensive.

I was thinking more of sealing off a large area around the Apexi filter and down to the apron with a scoop. Also connect in the original intake pipework and fit some charge cooler finning or similar inside.

Then pipe away to a separate rad and fan with pump and resevoir. Kind of charge cooling pre filter. I could make one up in cardboard to fit, then get it fab'd in Alu and insulate it before fitting it.

Gotta be worth a try, and gotta improve things from the current situation.
Cute & fluffy animals were definitely hurt during the production of this post, there're plenty more where they came from
Aztec Bronze S2 Elise 111S
Campovolo Grey Abarth 595 Competizione

markiii

#30
might be missing something but you buy an apexi for noise not power

now once you've enclosed it with some cunning setup or other to get the temp back down how is this any better than the stock airbox with a good panel filter?

granted if you have a non standard filter location due to turbo or sc it gets different, but on an N/A?
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

tom_deas

#31
indeed... pretty much just go full circle. may as well get a mkiii inlet pipe and a high-flow filter

personally id vouch for an apexi power intake and screw the loss in power, its totally worth it  s:D :D s:D
[size=85]Che Manifold, Che Elise twin-centre Exhaust, Che RU Strutted, Eonon DoubDin 7" Touchscreen DVD player, yellow calipers, the tramp I ran over in my old car still following me around waiting to dive in front of me again.                   <---- you think im kidding?![/size]

Quotedo you want an ultra lightweight pulley to go with your "turbo" badge? if you treat me real nice i can tell you where on your car to put the turbo badge to get the full 20bhp gain! don\'t f*ck about, put the kettle on

Wabbitkilla

#32
Well, work so far;

Intake is cool wrapped.
Exhaust headers are wrapped.
Drip tray removed.
Custom wabbit scoop v1.1 is in place (brings air flowing under car up to the air filter location)

Result - Intake temperatures at a standstill range from 40 to 45C, engine bay remperature is vastly reduced.
On the move, travelling at 50mph or above brings intake temp down to 30C or the low 30's depending on ambient conditions.
Impressive for a smple mod held in place with cable ties - Ste would be proud of me   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Next stages are purely to improve the "wabbitscoop" to increase capacity and make more permenant.
Possibly fitting heat exhaust fan arrangement to the engine lid, i've found a source of 96mm Spal fans which may fit with the rstb.

Worthy of not is the heat stored in the engine bay due to the lack of heat shielding. Anyone considering removing the manifold heatshields when de-precatting or fitting an after market manifold needs to consider heat control as it really surprised me how much heat comes of the manifold and gets retained in the ngine bay.
Cute & fluffy animals were definitely hurt during the production of this post, there're plenty more where they came from
Aztec Bronze S2 Elise 111S
Campovolo Grey Abarth 595 Competizione

Anonymous

#33
Just a very slight drift.
I've just fitted a PE induction kit which looks good and the heat shield seems to be shielding off the right areas and attemts to collect the cooler air from the engine bay.
Had a mark111 and k&n before and was looking for maybe a bit more induction noise. (There is a bit but not as much as I had expected!)
The Japanese translation to English on the side of the box suggests washing in normal household detergent. My guess is that you could clean the filter in a dishwasher??? (This is a serious question).
Yes or no??

ChrisGB

#34
I have used simple washing up liquid to clean my Green Cotton filter for the last 2 years. I just brush it neat onto the dirty side of the filter, let is soak for 10 mins, add a little water and flush through from the back. This ensures that no dirt particles make it to the clean side of the filter. I would be tempted to avoid the dishwasher as there are some seriously aggressive detergents involved which may attack the surround materials or the anti corrosion coating on the mesh support wires if your filter has them. There may even be an abrasive residue left after rinsing with some dishwasher materials.

Chris
Ex 2GR-FE roadster. Sold it. Idiot.  Now Jaguar XE-S 380. Officially over by the bins.

Anonymous

#35
Thanks for that

Anonymous

#36
Quote from: "ChrisGB"I have used simple washing up liquid Chris

Fairy   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

tom_deas

#37
id laugh if it said on the box

"Green(tm) cotton air filter. Wash with Fairy suds."

  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
[size=85]Che Manifold, Che Elise twin-centre Exhaust, Che RU Strutted, Eonon DoubDin 7" Touchscreen DVD player, yellow calipers, the tramp I ran over in my old car still following me around waiting to dive in front of me again.                   <---- you think im kidding?![/size]

Quotedo you want an ultra lightweight pulley to go with your "turbo" badge? if you treat me real nice i can tell you where on your car to put the turbo badge to get the full 20bhp gain! don\'t f*ck about, put the kettle on

kentsmudger

#38
This is all interesting reading. I have K&N panel filter and markiii pipe (and have definitely noticed a power improvement over stock) and would like to make some comparisons, so I wondering how you are all taking these temperature measurements?

Also, having never seen a dyno in use, how does it supply air for induction when the car is (obviously) stationary, but the engine is running at speed? Don't you get high intake temps, such as northernalex got ("sitting in pub car-park for 5 minutes")?
[size=85] Unichip, full Hayward & Scott exhaust, race cat and manifold - markiii pipe, K & N panel, EBC Ultimax Slotted Discs, EBC pads, TTE springs, Corky\'s Breastplate, front & rear strut braces, brass shift bushes, Hankook Ventus V12 Evos, CG-Lock. Bama deflector, Mongos, Devs key cover, TTE gear-knob. My car and my pics of other cars.

[centre] 'I am, and ever will be a white socks, pocket protector, nerdy engineer' - Neil Armstrong (1930 – 2012) [/size][/centre]

DannyN

#39
Nic, Rob and myself have got Apexi PowerFC's fitted to our cars which are aftermarket ECU's and they come with a little controller which shows you various outputs   that you can decide on, revs, knock, ign etc.  It also has teh facility to show you the maximum you've reached since starting the engine up.

One of the options is to show the air input temp and that is what we have been reading and making a note of




As for the rolling road / dyno's I've only seen a  couple but the ones I have seen have large fans at the front pushing new air into the dyno and large fans at the back for extracting air and exhaust fumes



D
Quote from: \"DannyN\"There are 10 types of people in the world,
Those who understand Binary and those that don\'t...

[size=75]Black 51 165 BHP - Hardtop ON - Teins - Apexi Power FC - AEM Induction (Cleaned) - Crower Cams - Forged Pistons - Iridium Plugs - Zero Manifold - SP Downpipe - H&S - TRD SS - Corkys MSMB - Goodridge - \'03 Vents - Devs - Bamas - Crystal Indies - Mongos.
[/size]

muffdan

#40
the stock ECU provides a live readout of the Air temp through the OBDII port. You just need to have a reader that can read and display the data.

Jason
Jason
[size=80]\'00 Cape Green MR2 with Hard top, A/C & Leather - SP Turbo - 320bhp[/size]
[size=100]AEM - [/size][size=96]ARP - [/size][size=92]Crower - [/size][size=88]Cusco - [/si

kentsmudger

#41
Quote from: "muffdan"the stock ECU provides a live readout of the Air temp through the OBDII port. You just need to have a reader that can read and display the data.

Jason


Cool, something like the ScanguageII here?
[size=85] Unichip, full Hayward & Scott exhaust, race cat and manifold - markiii pipe, K & N panel, EBC Ultimax Slotted Discs, EBC pads, TTE springs, Corky\'s Breastplate, front & rear strut braces, brass shift bushes, Hankook Ventus V12 Evos, CG-Lock. Bama deflector, Mongos, Devs key cover, TTE gear-knob. My car and my pics of other cars.

[centre] 'I am, and ever will be a white socks, pocket protector, nerdy engineer' - Neil Armstrong (1930 – 2012) [/size][/centre]

kentsmudger

#42
Just answered my own question sorry - (answer is Yes!)
[size=85] Unichip, full Hayward & Scott exhaust, race cat and manifold - markiii pipe, K & N panel, EBC Ultimax Slotted Discs, EBC pads, TTE springs, Corky\'s Breastplate, front & rear strut braces, brass shift bushes, Hankook Ventus V12 Evos, CG-Lock. Bama deflector, Mongos, Devs key cover, TTE gear-knob. My car and my pics of other cars.

[centre] 'I am, and ever will be a white socks, pocket protector, nerdy engineer' - Neil Armstrong (1930 – 2012) [/size][/centre]

Anonymous

#43




Not finished yet.  This is going to be one cool intake, drawing air from outside the car via the slots and a scoop over the front half of the slots.   s:) :) s:)

muffdan

#44
That setup is begging on its knees with tears in its eyes for a hood fan! Blowing down of course, the air coming in would have no where to go but into the intake giving some seriously cool temperatures. It would also help keep the housing itself cooler.

Jason
Jason
[size=80]\'00 Cape Green MR2 with Hard top, A/C & Leather - SP Turbo - 320bhp[/size]
[size=100]AEM - [/size][size=96]ARP - [/size][size=92]Crower - [/size][size=88]Cusco - [/si

Tem

#45
Quote from: "muffdan"That setup is begging on its knees with tears in its eyes for a hood fan!

...or a roof scoop?  s;) ;) s;)
Sure you can live without 500hp, but it\'s languishing.

Anonymous

#46
Fans would definitely work, but you'd be surprised.  (I had a big fan at one point but didn't care for the whirring noise.)  I do plan on making a scoop on the engine lid and (if I can do it!) a roof scoop for people with an intercooler mounted near there.  I am pretty much convinced that my car won't benefit from a roof scoop, though.  This morning I logged data and watched the IAT display in Copilot for Power FC.   Ambient temp. was 83F.  I started the car and drove straight off going 15-35 for about 2 miles.  IAT never moved until I had come to a stop sign and had to sit idling for a minute, then it started to climb.  Once underway again, it got hotter for a little while (hot air accumulated in engine bay, then was sucked in) and then cooled right back down.   The faster you go, the closer it is to ambient outside temp.   Closing off the top of it with a "box top" type thing coming down from the engine lid and slipping inside the rectangle will isolate it from the heat radiating out when you stop.  Adding the forward-facing scoop over the first 7 or 8 slots (above intake box) will mean air will come in from there instead of the other slots.  It is more for that than to force air in at speed because it cools right down at speed without a scoop or even the top of the box.  It's going to work like a champ.   There will be something under the scoop making any rain coming in go down the first row of slots -- not into the intake box.  Some rain could still get in there, but the ITG filter repels water and the bottom of the box / heat shield will let water drain out.

It was pretty easy to make the box.  I posted step-by-step instructions on SC yesterday.  Different intakes and strut tower braces would mean this is a custom job.  It took about 6 hours including the planning.

Induction sound is a plus, too.

kanujunkie

#47
Kevin, how fars the scoop going to continue forward? and i take it its going to be forward facing? only reason i say this is that you could end up with airflow issues, you'll see what i mean if you ever drop the soft top on a dewy morning. The airflow comes forward over the top of the windshield and swirls over the area where the soft top is folded and then forward into the cabin, if the soft top is wet with dew it picks it up and soaks the inside of the cabin. Only thing i'd be worried about is this effect actually sucking the air out of that box and creating a negative pressure zone inside the box, sure the engine will still run but it may be at a cost

just a thought
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

aaronjb

#48
I'm not sure Kevin even has a soft top anymore, Stu - the scoop is going to be moulded to the contours of the hard top, rather like the Toms (I think it was?) car they turned into a coupe..
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

kanujunkie

#49
ignore the comment then, and yes it was the tom's that had the roof scoop
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

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