Which bushings to replace when fitting springs?

[markiii]

I'd suggest whiteline for bang for teh buck

[Anonymous]

I found a company on Ebay.com selling ARB`s by a company called ADDCO and found bars for the front and back. The front ARB was 1" and the rear 7/8" I thought the rear would be thicker as there is more weight to stop swaying about. Are these worth considering...?

Cheers, Bob

[northernalex]

I'd suggest whiteline for bang for the buck

Brilliant mark, cheers.. I'll go find some prices.

Alex

[markiii]

DT sell them and we still have a club discount

[Anonymous]

What discount do we get for being members of MR2roc and is there a name within DT that we contact when placing an order. Is there a list somewhere with all the suppliers and discount offered from them. I have searched but found nothing.

Cheers,
Bob

[spit]

What discount do we get for being members of MR2roc and is there a name within DT that we contact when placing an order.

10% as standard. Our friendly shop contact, Skip, has now moved on but Club discount will apply if you ask for it.

If we have an event there (which I'm hoping we will again in the Spring), we can get some additional discount on certain items. May be longer than you wish to wait though.

Is there a list somewhere with all the suppliers and discount offered from them. I have searched but found nothing.

Not all in one thread, no. A neat idea though.  s8) s8) .

There is, however, a 'sticky' thread of MrT dealerships offering Club discount that Liz negotiated for us.

[Kool PT]

as funds won't stretch to whiteline ARB are the che ones worthwhile as an alternative or would I be better off spending the money on something else?

[Wabbitkilla]

There are guys on SC using the CHE ARB's so they're probably a cheap and cheerful solution - but remember they are cheap and cheerful. Probably functional enough though.

Question is (after my recent experiences) do you really need new ARB's or replacement shocks?
Uprated ARB's seem to exacerbate the state of worn and sagging shocks, especially when combined with lowering springs.
Many people are running standard ARB's with uprated coilover's quite happily, I know I'm an exception but it depends what you're expecting from your suspension. Don't expect high performance suspension if you're using high mileage shocks, my rears were knackered at 50000miles!

Lowering springs will alter your camber, the amount depends on the age and state of your shocks.
If you look at the run wabbit run thread you'll see what can happen to your rear tyres at the worst.
Handling ends up being dire to dangerous, tramlining a nightmare!

This is really from what i've learned recently (to my cost), there are a couple of different approaches to improving suspension with varying costs and results.

[Kool PT]

Thanks for the feedback. Might focus on getting new shocks or at least che's camber adjustment bars instead then.

[Wabbitkilla]

Yeah, even if you get new shocks or coilovers i reckon you should get camber adjustment bars - just to make sure it's setup right.

[northernalex]

Hmm might be a good idae to get some of ches camber adjustment bars

[Anonymous]

I got a set rear toe and trailing arms there on Thursday and only ordered them on the Saturday. Dont buy them through his ebay site as the fees are to much best email him and tell him you are a MR2oc member I got all four bars for $235 including P&P and did not pay any import tax or vat. Just need to try and fit them, car on axle stands at the moment with lots of gasplus on nuts and bolts. Got my Tein SS fitted today and my new drop links from 2srus   s:D s:D  

Cheers,

Bo

[Anonymous]

I got a set rear toe and trailing arms there on Thursday and only ordered them on the Saturday. Dont buy them through his ebay site as the fees are to much best email him and tell him you are a MR2oc member I got all four bars for $235 including P&P and did not pay any import tax or vat. Just need to try and fit them, car on axle stands at the moment with lots of gasplus on nuts and bolts. Got my Tein SS fitted today and my new drop links from 2srus   s:D s:D  

Cheers,

Bo

A word of advice with regard to the rear toe adjuster bars, set your bars to the size of the original ones you pull off, then adjust your toe using the cam adjuster fitted into the chassis. The reason I suggest this is because you can't get a spanner on to the locking nut to secure it,  s:roll: :roll: s:roll:   unfortunately this is typical for all makes.  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

I've never looked back since I had them fitted, plus they do look very nice -

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info. If i am reading your info correctly you are saying unwind both end equally to match the original length and then lock the nut that will be inaccessable when fitted and then remove and turn the other by removing and replacing the bolt on the hub until the geometry is correct, then lock the accessable nut. hope I`m right   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Cheers,

Bob

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info. If i am reading your info correctly you are saying unwind both end equally to match the original length and then lock the nut that will be inaccessable when fitted and then remove and turn the other by removing and replacing the bolt on the hub until the geometry is correct, then lock the accessable nut. hope I`m right   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Cheers,

Bob

Not really, you can't lock one without the other being locked, they are right hand and left had threads to allow adjustment, this problem is only relevant to the toe adjuster, the very back bar with the track rod end fitted to it. The two bars in the picture above can be adjusted when fitted to the car as there is not interference from anything else.

I hope this explains it a bit better.

Rob

[Kool PT]

do you need both toe AND trailing arms? Are camber bolts really useless or do they do the job?

one one side markiii is saying that 9/10 sets of springs he's done required no camber adjustment, on the other people are saying that it essential to spend £200 odd on camber adjustment bars...that £200 quid is about the limit for my desposable cash in a month so it makes a bit of difference to me

[spit]

do you need both toe AND trailing arms?

From the various mutations I've seen it seems to me that the more you spend the better the setup .... you get an improvement with each addition but the returns diminish each time.

Camber cannot be adjusted on the stocker and many of those who've lowered or gone aftermarket suspension have left things as they are. The addition of camber adjust gives you options if your back end goes bandy as a result of your suspension changes. The other two bars have benefits in that they tighten up the mount points by replacing the stock bushes .... but they're by no means essential IMHO. I just kept the stock bars and uprated the bushings - that made a fair old difference.  s8) s8)  

Are camber bolts really useless or do they do the job?

I hope they work - I fitted the TwosRUs crash bolts as I have a vicious John Wayne stance at the rear with the Teins... but I don't know for sure as I haven't yet found the time to have the alignment redone  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

[SteveJ]

do you need both toe AND trailing arms? Are camber bolts really useless or do they do the job?

one one side markiii is saying that 9/10 sets of springs he's done required no camber adjustment, on the other people are saying that it essential to spend £200 odd on camber adjustment bars...that £200 quid is about the limit for my desposable cash in a month so it makes a bit of difference to me

I'm with Mark on this one - we never encountered any problems when fitting TTE (or the Eibach equivalent) springs. My car now has the aPexi setup that I bought off Aaron set to ~ -45mm and the alignment is still spot on (I have access to a 4 wheel alignment rig so have checked it myself).

The biggest benefit with the setup Rob has is the elimination of the nasty sloppy stock rubber bushes.

[Anonymous]

do you need both toe AND trailing arms? Are camber bolts really useless or do they do the job?

one one side markiii is saying that 9/10 sets of springs he's done required no camber adjustment, on the other people are saying that it essential to spend £200 odd on camber adjustment bars...that £200 quid is about the limit for my desposable cash in a month so it makes a bit of difference to me

The main reason I changed the camber bar was tyre wear, I did Rockingham last year and the amount of scrubbing on the inside of the rear tyre was unacceptable to me, so I decided to change the camber and the caster bars to keep things looking right and uniform  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  Later on I brought the toe bar, I didn't fit the toe bar as I was waiting for my planned strip down over winter and have the whole lot set back up after the re-build.

But the difference in the grip and handling with the two bars fitted, I think is worth every penny spent - why because they halve the movement in the suspension set-up, the pillow ball ends are solid.

Any way as Ste said it's all about what you want out of the car and if you intend to keep it - then you must consider what you can afford, we've seen it all to often guys spending loads of cash on a car then selling the thing, in which case save your money.

Rob

[northernalex]

I plan to just get my tein dress ups fitted, and new drop links.. and just get the 4 wheel checked.. if its out.. THEN go and spend the money on the other gubbins mentioned by all the knowledgeable people here. Remember that we're just lowering, we're not using a whole new aftermarket coilover setup.

Alex

[Kool PT]

any requirement for the 'beefy bar' upgrade?

[northernalex]

any requirement for the 'beefy bar' upgrade?

I didn't bother with that. needed for some ARBs

Alex

[Two's Company]

Thought I would update this thread following an alignment check at DT yesterday.  I've had the Tein S-Tech on for around 13k miles now and the rear camber is now out on both sides.  I have new tyres on there so need to decide which route to go to be able to adjust the camber before any excessive tyre wear is caused.  The Megan arms do look nice.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[darkday]

If they can't just get it back with an alignment I'd go with crash bolts rather then spending a lot of money on other stuff.