handbrake not holding :(

Started by Anonymous, August 21, 2008, 22:07

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Anonymous

Car's approaching its MOT and the handbrake won't hold the car on a slope.  When I bought it, applying the handbrake resulted in it coming right to the end of the travel, which was extremely far up.  So I tightened it as per the guide on here but it doesn't seem to hold the car even though it is tight and stops after about 5-6 clicks.
I checked the pads and discs which are fine, any other ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Chris

muffdan

#1
You followed the guide to adjust the auto-tensioners at the calipers right? You can't just pull up the slack with the adjuster at the handbrake lever.

Jason
Jason
[size=80]\'00 Cape Green MR2 with Hard top, A/C & Leather - SP Turbo - 320bhp[/size]
[size=100]AEM - [/size][size=96]ARP - [/size][size=92]Crower - [/size][size=88]Cusco - [/si

BlackSabel

#2
C-bro

I have the same problem with the handbrake, and before MOT today my garage had a llok and was told that the brake caliper was not holding the handbrake although footpad brakes working perfect. This it is MOT failure so had to get new brake caliper fitted and MOT passed!!!!

Rdgs
Blacksable
BlackSabel 2003 , Leather interior, TTE Twin Exhaust, Hard Top, Precats gutted, Dev's Keyhole cover, Jspec Black Nose Badge, Apexi Induction Kit, TTE Banana Spoiler, Rear Spats, Toyo TR1's Proxes, Silver Calipers with SteveJ 'MR2' decals, Cusco front strut brace, trd Short Shifter, Speedsource bushings. Mongos with spyder decals. 7" touch screen double din.

muffdan

#3
Again, have you readjusted the tensioner on the caliper itself? When it reaches its maximum setting, it looks like the caliper isn't doing its job and it won't apply the brake. Its always worth trying an adjustment before replacing them. Its suprising how many garages just don't know about the caliper adjuster.

Jason
Jason
[size=80]\'00 Cape Green MR2 with Hard top, A/C & Leather - SP Turbo - 320bhp[/size]
[size=100]AEM - [/size][size=96]ARP - [/size][size=92]Crower - [/size][size=88]Cusco - [/si

normanh

#4
mmm  Its not just the caliper that needs to be looked at, check that the linkage is free on it at the back. If its not locking up when the handbrake is pulled up the cable is seized, thats what happened to me on one side and yes its an mot failure. I understand the cables can be a devil to fit requiring the tank to be dropped best of luck.

regards
normanh

Anonymous

#5
Hi again, just a quick update.
The handbrake is no longer having any effect on the car and it will roll whether the handbrake is applied or not.
I took the rear driverside wheel off today and even took apart the caliper to no avail.
The handbrake cable is freely moving when it is applied/disengaged and the cam it is attached to is moving also.
What does the adjuster on the caliper look like, and how does one adjust it?
Also I'm not sure that the rear brakes are working when the footbrake is applied either as there is very little sign of wear on the discs.
Any ideas? MOT on Thursday and I'd love to be able to fix this myself if possible.
Thanks

enid_b

#6
Quote from: "muffdan"Again, have you readjusted the tensioner on the caliper itself? When it reaches its maximum setting, it looks like the caliper isn't doing its job and it won't apply the brake. Its always worth trying an adjustment before replacing them. Its suprising how many garages just don't know about the caliper adjuster.

Jason

i dont think he can say it any clearer dude.  read the above post !!! ( just to be uber clear there is a guide ON HERE on how to tighten the handbrake. it does not involve removing the wheels, merely the centre console - 4 screws.)
Ex \'51 Roadster, now  Verso SR !!! the official MR2ROC support vehicle.
Quote from: \"markiii to deej\"the difference will be because your old plugs were fubared

a bloke with a flint would likely have been an improvement

Anonymous

#7
Quote from: "In his first post, c-bro"So I tightened it as per the guide on here but it doesn't seem to hold the car even though it is tight and stops after about 5-6 clicks.
So I think it's safe to say he already tried that.  s;) ;) s;)

muffdan

#8
Ok, just to be 100% clear with what you've tried, you followed the guide on here, which involves taking the centre console out, slackening the ajuster fully at the lever, slackening the self adjuster at the caliper to its minimum setting, pumping the brake pedal 10-20 times, then taking up the slack with the adjuster at the lever.

Right   s:?: :?: s:?:    s:?: :?: s:?:  

*edit: http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=9783

Jason
Jason
[size=80]\'00 Cape Green MR2 with Hard top, A/C & Leather - SP Turbo - 320bhp[/size]
[size=100]AEM - [/size][size=96]ARP - [/size][size=92]Crower - [/size][size=88]Cusco - [/si

Anonymous

#9
That's a really good link. So the handbrake just works the back brake pads?? so you only need to make the adjustment via the cable?? (on lots of cars they have a separate system,which is the only reason I'm asking this, and because I need to get mine sortted also).

muffdan

#10
you do just need to adjust the cable, but I found it easier to get my hands on the calipers and manually move the cantilever to the minimum position before pumping the brake. It can be done with the wheel on if you know what you're trying to move.

Jason
Jason
[size=80]\'00 Cape Green MR2 with Hard top, A/C & Leather - SP Turbo - 320bhp[/size]
[size=100]AEM - [/size][size=96]ARP - [/size][size=92]Crower - [/size][size=88]Cusco - [/si

Tags: