MAF sensor need replacing?

Started by WillsSayers, October 7, 2008, 22:46

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WillsSayers

October 7, 2008, 22:46 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Hey al,

I've got a flat spot in my rev range at about 4.5k - 5k revs, which is most noticeable in 2nd and 3rd. Do you think this could be sorted by getting the MAF sensor replaced, or even just cleaned? It's an 8 year old car with 74k on the clock.

-Wills

]Appearance:[/b] :: Pre-facelift Toyota Bodykit :: Ducktail Spoiler :: TTE Style Bar :: Custard Gas Struts ::
Chassis: :: Front and Rear Strut Brace :: C-One Front and Rear Anti-roll Bar ::

Wabbitkilla

#1
October 7, 2008, 22:49 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Take it out, clean it, reset the ecu, put it back in and try it.

Worth a try, and miles cheaper than buying a new MAF!
Cute & fluffy animals were definitely hurt during the production of this post, there're plenty more where they came from
Aztec Bronze S2 Elise 111S
Campovolo Grey Abarth 595 Competizione

WillsSayers

#2
October 7, 2008, 22:56 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Baring in mind I'm quite a car noob, what's involved in removing it? I've been told to spray it with Isopropyl Alcohol spray and then grease the connectors with dielectric grease - does this sound about right?

How do you reset the ecu? Is that a battery out/in job?

]Appearance:[/b] :: Pre-facelift Toyota Bodykit :: Ducktail Spoiler :: TTE Style Bar :: Custard Gas Struts ::
Chassis: :: Front and Rear Strut Brace :: C-One Front and Rear Anti-roll Bar ::

WillsSayers

#3
October 7, 2008, 23:04 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Found a guide here; assuming this should be as straight forward as described?  s:) :) s:)

 m http://www.spydermagazine.com/2002/Marc ... _clean.htm m

]Appearance:[/b] :: Pre-facelift Toyota Bodykit :: Ducktail Spoiler :: TTE Style Bar :: Custard Gas Struts ::
Chassis: :: Front and Rear Strut Brace :: C-One Front and Rear Anti-roll Bar ::

kentsmudger

#4
October 7, 2008, 23:11 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Dead easy, just follow the instructions you have there - If you disconnect the battery before you start and put it back when you're done (half an hour is enough), you will get an ECU reset too.

Enjoy  s:D :D s:D
[size=85] Unichip, full Hayward & Scott exhaust, race cat and manifold - markiii pipe, K & N panel, EBC Ultimax Slotted Discs, EBC pads, TTE springs, Corky\'s Breastplate, front & rear strut braces, brass shift bushes, Hankook Ventus V12 Evos, CG-Lock. Bama deflector, Mongos, Devs key cover, TTE gear-knob. My car and my pics of other cars.

[centre] 'I am, and ever will be a white socks, pocket protector, nerdy engineer' - Neil Armstrong (1930 – 2012) [/size][/centre]

WillsSayers

#5
October 7, 2008, 23:14 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Wicked, I'll see if I can pick up the required stuff and give it a go tomorrow or something then. Would love to get rid of the flat spot!

]Appearance:[/b] :: Pre-facelift Toyota Bodykit :: Ducktail Spoiler :: TTE Style Bar :: Custard Gas Struts ::
Chassis: :: Front and Rear Strut Brace :: C-One Front and Rear Anti-roll Bar ::

WillsSayers

#6
October 8, 2008, 17:01 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quick question looking at this picture:


Are these actually inside the removable part of the sensor, or are they inside the air intake pipe?

Cancel that, just spotted them!

]Appearance:[/b] :: Pre-facelift Toyota Bodykit :: Ducktail Spoiler :: TTE Style Bar :: Custard Gas Struts ::
Chassis: :: Front and Rear Strut Brace :: C-One Front and Rear Anti-roll Bar ::

SimonC_Here

#7
October 8, 2008, 17:06 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Don't break or even touch them!

Spray from a distance!

Simon

WillsSayers

#8
October 8, 2008, 18:10 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Oh ****. They both snapped, but I thought I'd try it anyway. It was fine for a few seconds, then the car burst in to flames and BLEW UP!!!

Nah, it's worked a treat! The flat spot has completely gone and the torques have returned  s:D :D s:D  I am one happy '2 owner!

]Appearance:[/b] :: Pre-facelift Toyota Bodykit :: Ducktail Spoiler :: TTE Style Bar :: Custard Gas Struts ::
Chassis: :: Front and Rear Strut Brace :: C-One Front and Rear Anti-roll Bar ::

Wabbitkilla

#9
October 8, 2008, 18:22 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
YaY   s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:  

Good work well done, working on these cars is a matter of confidence.
There's so much info available both here and Spyderchat, and the car itself is actually pretty easy to work on.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Cute & fluffy animals were definitely hurt during the production of this post, there're plenty more where they came from
Aztec Bronze S2 Elise 111S
Campovolo Grey Abarth 595 Competizione

WillsSayers

#10
October 8, 2008, 18:28 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
That's very true. This is actually the first car I've decided to work on myself though, so I'd much rather have my hand held by using this forum first, y'knarr? :]

]Appearance:[/b] :: Pre-facelift Toyota Bodykit :: Ducktail Spoiler :: TTE Style Bar :: Custard Gas Struts ::
Chassis: :: Front and Rear Strut Brace :: C-One Front and Rear Anti-roll Bar ::

heathstimpson

#11
October 9, 2008, 12:59 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "SimonC_Here"Don't break or even touch them!

Spray from a distance!

Simon
Some carefully use a cotton bud to wipe over  s:? :? s:?
Ex MR2 Roadster Turbo (seven years) now 997 Porsche Carrera 4 GTS

StuM

#12
October 13, 2008, 00:16 Last Edit: October 13, 2008, 12:00 by StuM
Cleaned my MAF and reset the ECU today - first reset since gutting the precats.  Car now running really well - throttle response and general 'pick up' much better.  If only I'd realised early how quick and easy a MAF clean was!

Cheers Will for reminding me to do this!

Stu
Stu M

Ex 2001 Lagoon Blue Mr2 Roadster
Now - 1985 VW T25 Panel Van \":-)\"

WillsSayers

#13
October 13, 2008, 11:14 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Does gutting the pre-cats actually offer a performance increase, or is it soley to reduce the chance of engine failure?

]Appearance:[/b] :: Pre-facelift Toyota Bodykit :: Ducktail Spoiler :: TTE Style Bar :: Custard Gas Struts ::
Chassis: :: Front and Rear Strut Brace :: C-One Front and Rear Anti-roll Bar ::

StuM

#14
October 13, 2008, 12:01 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "WillsSayers"Does gutting the pre-cats actually offer a performance increase, or is it soley to reduce the chance of engine failure?

Open to debate.  There must be an increase in airflow into the engine with all the pre-cat material removed, so I'd say a small increase.  It certainly sounds a bit louder than it did before.

Stu
Stu M

Ex 2001 Lagoon Blue Mr2 Roadster
Now - 1985 VW T25 Panel Van \":-)\"

WillsSayers

#15
October 13, 2008, 12:13 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Hmmm, perhaps I should get my gutted... Bit of a chore though as I'm awful with this sort of thing by myself!

Am I right in saying it'll fail MOT unless it's been warmed up for a few minutes first?

]Appearance:[/b] :: Pre-facelift Toyota Bodykit :: Ducktail Spoiler :: TTE Style Bar :: Custard Gas Struts ::
Chassis: :: Front and Rear Strut Brace :: C-One Front and Rear Anti-roll Bar ::

edward.carter

#16
October 13, 2008, 12:35 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
get a local garage to do it. And mot is not a problem, i dont know of a single person that has failed mot due to precat removal. (they are for the american ulev test) So not applicible here.

WillsSayers

#17
October 13, 2008, 13:26 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I thought it'd be good to do it myself as I quite fancy learning a bit more about mechanical stuff ;]

]Appearance:[/b] :: Pre-facelift Toyota Bodykit :: Ducktail Spoiler :: TTE Style Bar :: Custard Gas Struts ::
Chassis: :: Front and Rear Strut Brace :: C-One Front and Rear Anti-roll Bar ::

edward.carter

#18
October 13, 2008, 13:58 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
in principle its a simple job, few nuts and bolts take manifold off, drill out precats, spray some water through to clean and bolt back on.
But!
after seeing the game markiii had at the precat gut meet (mine being one of the worst with stuck bolts and the heads sheering clean off, id never attempt it myself unless the car was about a week old and the bolts hadnt rusted lol.
Also his pit was a big help made getting to the bottom half of it much easier.
Many people have done it themselves, and i wish you luck if you do, just a little warning  s:) :) s:)

ad_car_08

#19
October 17, 2008, 17:46 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "kentsmudger"Dead easy, just follow the instructions you have there - If you disconnect the battery before you start and put it back when you're done (half an hour is enough), you will get an ECU reset too.

Enjoy  s:D :D s:D

So 15mins isn't long enough?

What can be experienced after the ecu is reset? does the engine start really lumpy and revs shoot up and down?
[size=85]2004 Sable MR2 Roadster - Track toy
Honda Civic EX 1.0T - Company Car
[/size]

spit

#20
October 17, 2008, 19:23 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "ad_car_08"So 15mins isn't long enough?
No, 15 mins should be plenty long enough.

Quote from: "ad_car_08"What can be experienced after the ecu is reset?
Cleared CELightand the ECU starts learning its trim with a (hopefully) more accurate MAF reading

Quote from: "ad_car_08"does the engine start really lumpy and revs shoot up and down?
No. What you're describing there sounds to me very much like a sticking IAC valve - characterised by a lumpy cold start idle and hunting revs/running a rich and fast idle when warm. If that's what you're experiencing, let me know - gonna take some pics of a dismantle, clean-up and reinstall soon - worth knowing about 'cos a replacement part is over 200 quid   s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
1999 MR-S with added C2 POWΣR

Humbled recipient of the Perry Byrnes memorial trophy (2007 & 2011)

northernalex

#21
October 18, 2008, 00:52 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Will, pop to S-Cars.. they will do the gutting for you.

Alex
evileye_xc said:
"I already saw it. I\'m hoping to gain the record for the \'Person who is most quoted in signatures"

WillsSayers

#22
October 18, 2008, 08:59 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
How much for, fella?

]Appearance:[/b] :: Pre-facelift Toyota Bodykit :: Ducktail Spoiler :: TTE Style Bar :: Custard Gas Struts ::
Chassis: :: Front and Rear Strut Brace :: C-One Front and Rear Anti-roll Bar ::

northernalex

#23
October 18, 2008, 10:39 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "WillsSayers"How much for, fella?

Not much, give them a call I know they have done it before... id bet circa 50-100 quid - 01388811855

Alex
evileye_xc said:
"I already saw it. I\'m hoping to gain the record for the \'Person who is most quoted in signatures"

ad_car_08

#24
October 18, 2008, 13:05 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "ad_car_08"does the engine start really lumpy and revs shoot up and down?
No. What you're describing there sounds to me very much like a sticking IAC valve - characterised by a lumpy cold start idle and hunting revs/running a rich and fast idle when warm. If that's what you're experiencing, let me know - gonna take some pics of a dismantle, clean-up and reinstall soon - worth knowing about 'cos a replacement part is over 200 quid   s:shock: :shock: s:shock: [/quote]

Ohhhhh no no no!!! When I reconnected the negative terminal onto my battery and turned the key, it started first time and performance seems unchanged as if I hadn't done anything to the car at all!? I wasn't expecting any dramatic performance differences, but I cleaned quite alot of grime off the sensor so I thought I'd notice the difference?

Seems I'll have to invest in a markiii to set sale on the quest for performance differences!!  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
[size=85]2004 Sable MR2 Roadster - Track toy
Honda Civic EX 1.0T - Company Car
[/size]
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