2ZZ here i come

Started by Jap GT300, January 28, 2004, 14:24

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Anonymous

#75
IIRC the chassis mounts are all from the MR-S.  The others I do not recall really.  The right one should be from the 2ZZ.

markiii

#76
Adam,

Worth a look at  m http://www.spyderchat.com/phpBB/viewtop ... =2zz+s2%2A m
look for the comment fref the throttle switch
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Jap GT300

#77
Blitzo mentions this in his wiring diagram.  I think we have it covered.

I've been speaking with Alex my mechanic and while he will be prodominently working on Kerries 2' over the weekend he reckons with his help the conversion should be completed, save for the gear linkages etc.

Could someone do me a favour and look at the pedal setup on the 2'.  Although I have the clutch pedal apparrently all the pedals are linked and you have to buy the set of three.

Thanks Adam

markiii

#78
spent most of the weekend under there doing wiring and they looked seperate to me. I'll look at the BGB hang on.
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Jap GT300

#79
Quote from: "CIN"The right one should be from the 2ZZ.

The one at the top of the pulleys, right.

Jap GT300

#80

Anonymous

#81
Quote from: "Jap GT300"
Quote from: "CIN"The right one should be from the 2ZZ.

The one at the top of the pulleys, right.

I dont really remember what exactly we used but the chassis mounts are all the original MR-S while the engine mounts.  The right one over the pullies is the 2ZZ and I think the others are too.  You can see if it fits and then swap from 1ZZ to 2ZZ if needed.

You also need to either modify the right mount bridge(aluminium piece that attaches the right engine and chassis mount together)or fab a new one.

Anonymous

#82
BTW you need to sway the TPS wires because it will read backwards and the car will bog down.

IIRC it is the brown with the red striped one.  1 with 2.  Just take the pin out of the connector and swap it.   This is done on the connector side.

You should tank Blitzo for this info since I completely forgot about it(It has been a long time now since I did the swap   s:P :P s:P  ).  He is a wiring genius.

Jap GT300

#83
With the help of Markiii yesterday we were able to disconnect and drop the 1zz from my car.

It took slightly longer than expected as we forgot to remove the throttle cable and fuel line.  A couple of things not previously mentioned, it is easier to drop the engine by removing the exhaust side engine mount completely from the chassis.  The fuel line is also attached by a specialist tool that is toyota specific.  We had to remove the fuel rail completely.  The 2zz and 1zz have the same rail.  We then swapped the injectors as the 2zz has larger ones.

You have to completely remove the PAS pulley as the 2' is not belt driven.  Also we had to add the aircon pulley to compensate for the belt size.

All mounts have been swapped and the 2zz is ready to be dropped.  Hopefully next weekend.  I will get some pictures uploaded shortly.

now all I have to do is organise the parts for the manual conversion and get the gear shaft adjusted.

p.s. the drive shaft are an absolute bugger to knock out.

markiii

#84
you make it sound so simple there Adam.  :-) :-) :-)
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Jap GT300

#85
I am having the gear linkage shaft fabricated by Little Rocket from Spyderchat.  He is charging $200 and it will be returned to me approx. 2 weeks after I send it.

Mark, you mentioned getting Brass bushings for the gear linkage.  Where do I purchase these?

Thanks Adam


markiii

#87
Quote from: "Jap GT300"I am having the gear linkage shaft fabricated by Little Rocket from Spyderchat.  He is charging $200 and it will be returned to me approx. 2 weeks after I send it.

Mark, you mentioned getting Brass bushings for the gear linkage.  Where do I purchase these?

Thanks Adam

 m http://www.mr2roc.org/viewtopic.php?t=2358 m
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Jap GT300

#88
ahhh the powers of search, i'm soo lazy.

Just ordered them

markiii

#89
for anyone interested the SMT lacks the opening in the transmission tunnell to run teh manual shift cables.

ask me how I know.

Mark (having spent most of teh day with a drill and a file)
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Jap GT300

#90
And here is what we have achieved so far   s:shock: :shock: s:shock:    Not bad for 1.5 days labour, me thinks.  Now it just needs all the hoses connecting, ECU and loom being modified (thanks Mark)  And then the gearbox!








Jap GT300

#91
I have now removed the wiring loom from the 1zz so that it can be modified as per blitzo's instructions.

I never realised it was so complex and had so many sensors.


aaronjb

#92
Quote from: "markiii"for anyone interested the SMT lacks the opening in the transmission tunnell to run the manual shift cables.

ask me how I know.

Adam locked you in the garage, didn't he?  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

Impressive progress from the both of you anyway, in a very short time.

Quote from: "Jap GT300"I have now removed the wiring loom from the 1zz so that it can be modified as per blitzo's instructions.

I never realised it was so complex and had so many sensors.

That's a lot of sensors considering the small size of the engine.. To compare how engine technology (and complexity) has moved on, this  (excuse the quilt cover!  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  ) is the loom from my other car - which has 2 cylinders extra, but only half the number of sensors by the look of things.. And for it's time (1990) it was an advanced engine..
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

Jap GT300

#93
Having removed the loom from the 1zz, you would not have thought that your one is from a 6 cylinder.

GSB

#94
Quote from: "markiii"for anyone interested the SMT lacks the opening in the transmission tunnell to run the manual shift cables.

ask me how I know.

Mark (having spent most of the day with a drill and a file)

Shouldn't that be a blunt drill and a carpenters file?  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
[size=50]Ex 2001 MR2 Roadster in Silver
Ex 2004 Facelift MR2 Roadster in Sable Grey
Ex 2007 Mazda 6 MPS in Mica Black
Current 2013 Mazda MX5 2.0 \'Venture Edition\' Roadster Coupe in Brilliant Black[/size]

markiii

#95
hence the most of the day  :-) :-) :-)
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Anonymous

#96
if you need help with that loom im only accross the bridge and it would be quicker to make a new one from scracth and less confusing (if you never made one before of course )   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

Jap GT300

#97
Thanks for the offer but hopefully we are only doing some minimal adjustments.  I must admit it does look a nightmare.

Jap GT300

#98
I have had a go at dismantling the loom initially to remove everything associated with the SMT.  I was hoping this would be an easy exercise and it was independant of the standard 1ZZ loom.

Well all the cables seem to be intertwined and you can't simple pull out the SMT section.  In addition to this some of the SMT wires revert back up the loom and take readings from other sensors that are not directly related with SMT.

I am wondering whether the SMT loom will be usable at all.  Shall I just cut the SMT part of the loom out?

Anonymous

#99
depends ! as you say it relise on the same senosr's as manual so if you cut it conpletely out then you may lose some of the sensor's

but trace them back multi them back to see if they are needed or not it will take time but at least you can sit down and do it.

I find lableing as i go helps and completely removing all the outer seath so that all the wires are exposed, this also shows up connections into the loom maybe from the SMT to manul

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