Rear Brake caliper?

Started by Wabbitkilla, March 6, 2009, 09:47

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Wabbitkilla

March 6, 2009, 09:47 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Peeps,

One for the parts number gurus i guess....

I may need to replace my OSR caliper and the bearer (that bit that bolts to the hub assembly).
What are the part numbers, and are they used on any other Toyotas?
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Tem

#1
March 6, 2009, 10:19 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Peeps,

One for the parts number gurus i guess....

I may need to replace my OSR caliper and the bearer (that bit that bolts to the hub assembly).
What are the part numbers, and are they used on any other Toyotas?

You should be able to find the exact part numbers for your car here:  s8) 8) s8)  
 m http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/ m
Sure you can live without 500hp, but it\'s languishing.

Wabbitkilla

#2
March 6, 2009, 11:18 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Interesting the "bearer i was talking about part number is 47707C, which is EXACTLY the same as the AW11 part.
A lot of the other components have the same part numbers for the piston and handbrake crank parts.

But there's no part number for the caliper itself!
The reason i began this thread is also because the brake pads appeared the same and i reasoned that if they are the same, what other parts are? eBay has calipers for the Marki and Markii at ver reasonable prices too should i need to swap it out.
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markiii

#3
March 6, 2009, 11:21 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
funny enough I have a full set of MK1 calipers on teh garage floor at the moment, and they look identical to teh roadster ones.

scary isn't it
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Wabbitkilla

#4
March 6, 2009, 11:22 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Ok add the Markii now as well!

So basically, they've retained the same rear calipers from day 1 all the way through!
I need someone with a bit more experience of such things to respond here and confirm it before spending money.
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SimonC_Here

#5
March 6, 2009, 11:29 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
OK nothing helpful to add but isn't  "Reat" northern for right or correct rather than rear?  s:D :D s:D

DannyN

#6
March 6, 2009, 12:03 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "SimonC_Here"OK nothing helpful to add but isn't  "Reat" northern for right or correct rather than rear?  s:D :D s:D

Simon your spelling is terrible - its Reet   s:D :D s:D
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Those who understand Binary and those that don\'t...

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Wabbitkilla

#7
March 6, 2009, 12:19 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
My bad, reat is a Northern thing - ask Phil   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Fixed it for you.
But anyway, an answer about the rear calipers would be interesting?
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roger

#8
March 6, 2009, 14:37 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Looking at that Toyodiy site the rear caliper assembly for the W30 looks to be the same for the W20. The Aw11 is very similar, but some minor differences in part numbers. I am of course assuming that the main part number ie first 5 digits would not be repeated if the part was different from car to car ie last 5 digits. ready to be told otherwise though.
Roger

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Wabbitkilla

#9
March 6, 2009, 14:41 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
It would appear the only way to tell for sure would be to get the full part numbers.   s:( :( s:(  

Anyway - off to Charlesworth next weekend to see if it can be rescued, until then transport will be via other means.
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Tem

#10
March 6, 2009, 22:23 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "roger"I am of course assuming that the main part number ie first 5 digits would not be repeated if the part was different from car to car ie last 5 digits. ready to be told otherwise though.

The first 5 digits name the part, like this:
11111-xxxxx is front brake pad, in every car
11112-xxxxx is rear brake pad, in every car
22222-xxxxx is a radiator, in every car
33333-xxxxx is a spark plug, in every car

xxxxx defines the car for the part.

Numbers aren't real, but you should get the idea. So yes, all 10 digits must be same to be sure that the part is actually identical. And to make things less simple, the part numbers often change over time, even if the part itself doesn't change, but the manufacturer changes. Not to mention updates to parts over time.  s:? :? s:?
Sure you can live without 500hp, but it\'s languishing.

Wabbitkilla

#11
March 15, 2009, 08:57 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Well then, 2 hours withe the excellent boys at Charlesworth yesterday and i'm back in business. We managed to free off the slider in the vice and clean everything up and reassemble. All tickety boo now and they did their handbrake adjustment trick at the same time so I've now got a great handbrake.

It appears the cause of my woes is down to a missing dustcap that should be protecting the slider on the back of the caliper. So i'm looking into finding a replacement.
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Anonymous

#12
March 19, 2009, 19:46 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"It appears the cause of my woes is down to a missing dustcap that should be protecting the slider on the back of the caliper. So i'm looking into finding a replacement.

That dustcap is available from your local "Mr.T".  When i got my 2 from the US it had been sitting for at least 6 months.  All 4 calipers where frozzen, and i had to break them lose with a prybar.

Anyway, i got the dustcaps from my local dealer, and they didn't cost much.  Over on Spyderchat there are partdrawings and parts list, it is listed there.
These are the dustcaps that goes between the caliper and the slider pin, on the "inside".
One warning: the ones i got had a metalring on one end, and they didn't fit right away.  I think i just cut of the metal ring, but i'm not certain about that.  You must get the correct ones, there are a "grove" (sp ?) on each side, which the ends of the dustcap slides over/into.  This holds the dustcap in place so it doesn't slide of, which will lead to water entering the slider...

There is also a dustcap inside the end of the "tube" part of the caliper that slides onto the slider pin.  One of these were missing as well.  I think you could only buy these as part of a overhauling kit, and THAT was expensive.  I just made a round piece of a 2-3 mm thick rubber mat, put on some heavy grease and pressed it into the tube...

The ulitmate solution to the whole problem is to drill out the end of the "tube", cut some threads and screw in a grease nipple.  Then, you could put some grease in there from time to time...
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