Engine rebuild - If money no object.

[Rogue]

Is that an option or a sales pitch.   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

It's an option - I've quoted Toyota's price and nowhere have I offered a product or service for sale? It was also directed at the OP, sorry if that wasn't clear.

Why would I want to stay 14.  s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:    s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:

I4 = Inline 4 cylinder. It's an "I" not a "1".

[loadswine]

I think Rob was just pulling your leg Patrick.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  
Completely valid points.

[Anonymous]

I think Rob was just pulling your leg Patrick.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  
Completely valid points.

Me - Nahhhhh   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[ChrisGB]

There's an option here that no-one's mentioned yet, and that is to purchase a short block from Toyota to rebuild your engine. Because of the issues with the early 1ZZ-FE engines, these are really cheap - just ~£660+vat exchange, and come with new revised pistons, rods and crank installed. With labour and gasket set it's still gong to work out more expensive than a low mileage late revision engine, but does effectively mean you're back to zero miles. This is what we do for all of our MR2 Championship mk3 race cars.

The hardware price is good, but the killer for most is the labour. As short engines go, that is a nice price, but you need to factor in quite a few pennies for the rebuild if you have not got the spanner skills, or time or facilities, plus, if swarf or bits of pre cat have made their way into the head, you end up with other potential problems too. I looked at a set of used cams from a typical failed 1zz and two of the lobe faces had some very mild scoring where debris had come up the oilway. Because of this, a low mileage swapper can look attractive (if you can be sure of the mileage of course).

With regards to tuning, if staying I4 I *personally* would not go down the route of increasing the performance on a 1ZZ-FE. As others have pointed out, by the time you've spent out for a mild tune you could have replaced the stock engine with a 2ZZ-GE which not only gives you an extra 50 ponies out of the box but is a much better platform for future modifications. Definitely ensure that you get the corresponding gearbox as well since the ratios are matched to the variable cam timing's lift point.

I think a mild tune is worthwhile. Cost wise, stage 1 cams / exhaust manifold / exhaust system and some sort of piggyback ECU will cost in the order of £1500 to buy, and set up. For this you can get very good driveability and a 22% increase in power. Go any further though and it takes a big step up in cost for the next 8% or so. Stage 2 or 3 cams bring the need for uprated valve springs, a stand alone ECU and crucially for most road work, shorter gearing. Here you are looking at spending nearer to £4000+ for maybe 185 - 195bhp by the time you factor in labour. Add a whole lot more cash if you want to go for forged internals, or big bore conversions which are not without their own disadvantages. For this sort of money, you could turbo or supercharge a 1zz (I like the idea of a supercharged setup) or fit a 2zz engine and gearbox. The engine at stage 2 or above is being worked at much higher revs too, so reliability is going to be potentially reduced as well. Here, engine swap is an obvious choice, but I can see the appeal of making the 1zz work well at higher outputs too.

Cost wise, the mild tune works out at around  £50 per BHP  s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  Forced induction can be good or bad in terms of cost per BHP. Something like the original TTE kit was near £4400 for 182bhp IIRC. This works out at a painful £100  s:shock: :shock: s:shock:    s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  per BHP, but you do get a really strong mid range, excellent driveability and a warranty and with some tuning the power can be turned up quite a bit too. Lots of other F/I options out there give a much better BHP / £ ratio, ranging from maybe £25 per BHP with the cheaper turbo kits. 2zz swap gets you into around £65 per BHP if I estimate the pricing correctly, but you keep the weight down and get to keep a a nice N/A response, which is important to me. V6 gets more BHP for your pound, but will add weight out the back, changing the balance a little I would imagine. Of course you get a much better noise as well  s8) s8)  

Other thing to consider is what you really want of the car. If you like to win drag races, you can add lots of F/I power and stay ahead of most things on the road if your pockets are deep enough. If you are more the type that enjoys the challenge of you / the car / the road and values the interactivity above the outright speed, perhaps the best mods you can do are to lose weight off the back end.

Money no object, I would be sorely tempted to go 2zz swap with either Rotrex or or stay N/A with a stroker kit and head work / cam, short ratio box and LSD. I love the idea of a 9000rpm road engine. Money no object on a 1zz, SJSPITZ has done pretty much what I would. But unfortunately, money is an object  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Chris

[loadswine]

Sensible stuff Chris, but SJSpitz's Roadster now has a 1MZ V6 in it. I guess you meant what he had done to his 1zz unit though.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[Anonymous]

The car is 1MZ now, but the 1zz still lives... It is just in a state of hiberntion at the moment, recovering for what is yet to come:

[OlberJ]

'kin 'ell these scion chargers are going onto everything now   s:lol: :lol: s:lol: