Ticking sound from engine (Mk3 1ZZ-FE)

Started by Mk3-MR2, January 14, 2010, 15:30

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Anonymous

#50
Hi, thanks for the reply...The oil was checked today and an extra litre put in, not an easy level to read, they put it 5w/30, this was the suggested oil to use, and yes the ticking noise does get worse...just to elaborate, its not really load, just an annoying ticking, like someone tapping a finger on a metal surface...it is just so frustrating as I need to know the problems for when I take it back to the garage as I have a feeling he wil try and blag me...the way I see it, I am not respinsible for any wear and tear, Ive only had the car 3 weeks and done 500 miles...the reverse noise is really worrying aswell...thanks a milion Mia x

Anonymous

#51
PS...only do a few miles a day..as I bought the car with 12 months MOT etc, full service done prior to sale, I did not think to check the oil level so Im not sure how much it has used in 3 weeks, thanks Mia x

mrzwei

#52
Don't get too alarmed but you need to mention to the garage you bought it from that it has already used a litre of oil in 500 miles (just in case, there may be no problem but this is just insurance).
Ex.MR2 SMT sadly missed.
Saab 9-5 Turbo, Hirsch stage 1, Sports suspension and anti roll bars, uprated disks, sports intake and filter and various other bits. 210bhp, 320Nm.
Talbot Express campervan with carb, distributor, coil and no cat! SOLD

Anonymous

#53
The gear box sound is worrying as there is quite a common fault of the bearings going in the gearbox which will set you back around £800 to put right.

Anonymous

#54
Hi, have now found out it is the timing chain and either gear box or clutch, so not good. Is being trailered back to the garage at my COST, totally broken hearted...also have been told the MOT certs don't add up as in 2009 it had done less miles than in 2008 ummmmm, does anyone know where I stand, can I just say I don't want it repaired and I want my money back..the guy said at the garage he has to be given the oppurtunity to fix the car...I have made a paper trail with an official letter at the suggestion of consumer net/trading standards, so I am doing it the right way, but all in all I think the car is not good, also found out the tyres and wheels are all on the wrong way, 205/50 on front and horizontal back and 195/ on front and horizontal back, so all round the wrong way, big small...PLEASE HELP...THANKS X

mrzwei

#55
Talk to your local citizens advice buro and the local trading standards office. I think the car was sold to you 'not fit for purpose' but they may have to be given the opportunity to put the problems right. May be better legal advice on here. Edit (sorry, didn't realise you'd already done some of that). The MOT cert milage thing is very dodgy and a possible criminal offence unless the speedo has been changed. Did you mention this to the trading standards people? Threaten legal action and go for the money back is the first thing (use the mot miles thing as a key argument, don't let them get their hands back on the certificate though).
Ex.MR2 SMT sadly missed.
Saab 9-5 Turbo, Hirsch stage 1, Sports suspension and anti roll bars, uprated disks, sports intake and filter and various other bits. 210bhp, 320Nm.
Talbot Express campervan with carb, distributor, coil and no cat! SOLD

Anonymous

#56
Hi, thank you for taking the time to reply and help me, I really appreciate it..I have done the mentioned things inc talk to solicitor, cit advice and trading standards, even spoken to the MOT test garage and he has agreed to help me as it is a new owner and he thinks something dodgey may of gone on in the past, getting a paper trail, and lots of photos and video footage of things..car going back to garage on a trailer tomorrow, going into their garage on Monday, so will have a very anxious weekend, and a fingers crossed week, my only worry is he will try to pin the chain stretching on wear and tear and the clutch or gear box problem too...we will see, thanks a million Mia x

mrzwei

#57
Quote from: "nelix"Call the garage, tell them you are bringing it back and they either fix it or refund you, wear and tear does not happen in 3 weeks.
Car is not fit for purpose so involve trading standards if need be.

This is the starting line, the car is supposed to work.  Good luck.
Ex.MR2 SMT sadly missed.
Saab 9-5 Turbo, Hirsch stage 1, Sports suspension and anti roll bars, uprated disks, sports intake and filter and various other bits. 210bhp, 320Nm.
Talbot Express campervan with carb, distributor, coil and no cat! SOLD

Mk3-MR2

#58
Many months down the line and the noise was always there more or less.
I have now established that it is indeed the timing chain that's had its life, it is stretched / the tensioner for it is also kaput, causing the oil leak as well.
They are replacing everything now.
So yes, this is indeed a common problem with the car, mine now at 170,000 km's.

Mk3-MR2

#59
And another update, now in 2013.
Timing chain was checked, within spec.
Tensioner was fine but replaced anyway.
All chain guides all also okay.
No exhaust or shield issues.
Engine is now using around 1.2l per 1000km. Used 15W40 semi-synth, then High Mileage, now back to 15W40, none made a difference.
Has 180000km on the clock.
Performance 100% fine.
Occasionally hear like the engine is coughing something out, like a single cough, upon start-up. Only very occasionally.
All cats removed ages ago, however one pre-cat showed signs of partial collapse.
Blue-ish smoke after coasting the engine for some distance, and then (only then) accelerating. Lots of it.


Ticking noise still there. Only under hard acceleration between 2000 to 3500 RPM. Sounds like a metal rod being rolled around in a tin can full of large coins. Also has a 70's type Beetle "ring" to it. Seems to be coming from the RH side of the engine.
Rings?
Valve seats?
End bearings?
Don't want to take the top off unless knowing exactly where to look. Already cost an arm and a leg to diagnose the timing chain / tensioner, which were all fine.

scotafrikiwi

#60
If this only happens once the engine is warm, the most likely reason is either carbon build up, pitting or such like which heats up or  sshit shit sshit  spark plugs which get to hot causing pre-ignition as the carbon or spark plugs act like a glow plug and ignite the fuel before the spark even has a change to ignite the fuel. If it happens the whole time even when cold, then it might be a block oil jet affecting the VVT system or worse yet, big end/crank bearing. It could even come from the clutch if it is only happening under heavy load but happening all the time even when cold. Knock sensor might not pick any of these issues up so might not get any codes.

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